Moral of the story. Always thank your local friendly Japanese businessman. Also love how you are completely filled with joy when you hear sound coming out of the Walkman
When zoomed out you get a clear picture on how difficult this is. Everything is so tiny! With the camera zoomed in it looks so easy like "just attach the 2 bits, it's not hard" but zooming out really is eye opening as to how complex and easy to make a mess of it can be. Kudos, Vince. Glad you got there in the end. :D
This is why I love youtube,there is always someone out there willing to help, good spot seeing that crack friendly Japanese businessman and well done as always vince,im always well chuffed for ya when ya get things repaired
What a great moment there where you realized it was finally working! You’ve got yourself a great community of people interested in your channel and seeing everyone contributing all their own tips and experiences is just wonderful! Looking forward to more Walkman and Discman videos to come!
Fantastic fix, Vince! Both of these videos were a very interesting journey, from loss of hope on the first one to a joyful fix in this one! I just can't get enough of these videos.
Great=D I love your enthusiasm when you get something working =D I didn't spot that crack at all - it was hard to see for sure! BTW - flux interferes with the meter connections! Worth cleaning flux off before you try to check continuity!
Thanks for the tip on the flux :-) Yes the crack was very hard to see, I was looking in that corner of the board for over 1 hour originally and I didn't see it!!!!!!
Well I didn't spot it either! I am kicking myself because after watching the video I thought - I should rewind and look super close at the close up footage around that connector. I didn't lol. Sometimes you have to inspect these with magnifcation to spot things like that. Great job though! The epoxy was fine for something like this (eg. not a rare system or collectors piece etc), but if it was a rare PCB I wouldn't put epoxy over all the connections there - just because it means if someone needs to swap a component out it could be very difficult to get the epoxy off. But for something like this its perfect imo.
Brilliant! We always do our best to help here in the comments! Seeing you fix things and how happy you get makes me happy as well! This is awesome! Well done!
Excellent fix vince! Always nice to see your reaction when you get something working! I didn't see that crack on the first video so well done to friendly japanese businessman for spotting that one. Nothing really i could add, really good work. I'd only really suggest removing the battery terminal and soak in cleaner, vinegar/lemon juice for a couple hours to get rid of that rust before it gets worse.
Ah yes the fist pump of success greatness . You and tronixfix got me into wanting to fix electronics the satisfaction of fixing something is like no other
With the auto reverse there's a switch with "continuous loop" where it plays one side then the other continuously, and the other possition of the switch, it plays one side then the other and then stops.. Yay well done Vince, a fairly easy fix in the end! It was good seeing you elated. Your soldering is definitely coming on leaps and bounds.
Great job finding a solution to the crack, i had a gamecube controller and i ran into the same issue where i couldn't figure out where the traces went so i scrapped along the crack to expose the copper below so i could follow them, then i just repaired the traces with blobs of soulder then i used expoxy in the crack to strenghten it and it's been working wonderfully.
I'm always stunned by your patience. It makes me think about going back to some parts, I'd already given up on. ;) Also very nice spotting by the Friendly Japanese Businessman. Keep it up.
Fantastic!! You mentioned in the previous video it looked like it might have been dropped, so I'm not surprised there was a little crack! Great job gang!!
First time commenting, I recently got back into Sony Walkman’s, i purchased a WM-1, WM-22,WM-f18/f28, Lol just saw ( YES,YES ) Anyway instead of saying shorted out, you should say “ i have continuity” usually a short is a bad thing lol. Anyway enjoying your videos
I was lucky enough to find an Optelec Clearview 500 in my local recycle depot a few years ago. Newer models are very expensive but you can find the older ones on Ebay at a reasonable price. Even if they don't come with a monitor, you can easily connect a small LCD television to it. I've been able to repair even the smallest devices and jewelry with it. You would not miss a crack in the circuit board with it. Hope you can find something like this at a good price. Good luck.
It's a very good job! I really like that you're tenacious about getting to the fault, and then fixing it. BTW, epoxy on the PCB prevents anyone else trying to fix that part of the circuit again. It's an absolute pain in the a$$ to remove epoxy. It has to be baked off the PCB. You might want to get some silicone conformative coating to repair the OEMs original coatings. It's what is typically used to coat the Printed Circuit Board. Great job fixing the Sony Walkman!
lovely video! i didnt saw the crack too. i was frustrated in the other video at the end beacuse i also didnt know what was the issue. a bad chip didnt seem to likely to me , but we never know. awesome awesome work! cheers ! i love your videos! i watch all of them. :)
Great fix. I have subscribed now to see the others being repaired. Can really hear the joy in your voice at your achievement. Well done. I would buy that. It is a nice looking unit.
every time you fix something I can´t help to jump of the chair and cheer, it´s like watching soccer and your team scores a goal! I am sure that I am not alone
Тhe sound drifts, because the flywheel touches and rub onto something.This green stuff is protective solder mask. I use very thin coper threads smaller than track itself (the wire you use is too thick) from multi-wire wire to fix fine tracks like those, just pretin them and tracks in rosin, solder them on the track itself or from point to point (like you do) or both. Flux is corosive, solder paste and rosin are great insulators. Epoxy is VERY MESSY thing - a couple of drops of Super glue is your best friend after fixing the cracked tracks or even to join two pieces of broken PCB. Heating it a bit with hot air - cure it instantly but stinks aweful. EXCELLENT WORK. Your joy is not madness, thats the motivating best part and satisfaction - to (fix) see something alive again :D
@@nathanmead140 well that is your problem. Obveously you cant use thin wires for high current but here is preferable as it draws milli or even micro amps. Those thin tracks are able to care probably half amp. If you still not convinced than look at the tracks of your PC motherboard near CPU or better dont look at them because you might get heard attack :D also the line will be less noisy
Vince, another thing I noticed to help you in future was that when you were wondering where the belt went, the actual circuit board had a layout printed on it. They don't all do that, but sometimes looking at the bigger picture can show you some great info, like the wires having WHT ORG et cetera on the board. Thanks for sharing with us! I've learned a lot from you, and can't wait for the next one!
well done ! another item saved from landfill ! think i might have gone for jumper wires "rossmann" style in case the board got flexed again, but whatever works............and you now have an iconic item to play with ! :)
Man...I watched that video three times cause it was bugging me what the problem could be. My only guess was the volume potentiometer was bad. I didn't see that crack even though it's clearly there. Great catch from the TH-camr on that.
You just couldn't let it lie, could you ! No seriously I'm so glad you fixed it after your first video, well done Vince. The board looks a little weak (IMHO) when you look at it where the indent is by the battery terminal and someones pulled about the headphone jack maybe causing the split, looks great now. It had to be the jack though, they always were the weakest part after the dumb belt clip !
Magnifying what you're looking at through the monitor is a great idea if you can get it to work all the time. Helps miopic beggerz like me lol. Amazing stuff by the way. Gives me confidence to try this myself.
Fun video, glad you was able to fix it. One problem tho, the wow-and-flutter is enormous due the fact you can hear some wheel (flywheel?) is scraping something. Could be something simple like a wire or cable that is in the way. About the epoxy, I don't think I done it the way you did because future problems are not easy to fix in that area of the blob. Maybe you had to try to find some ground points that you can bridge with some stiff wires (or shielding) on both sides. Greetz!
The most I have ever done to "repair" any electronic is spray Dust Off into the sides on my joy sticks on my controllers... I don't understand why I enjoy watching this channel on autoplay.
Hello Vince, would you mind posting a list of equipment that you use for your repairs? It would be very helpful to know! Much appreciated! Keep up the great work :)
gosh i love all you'r repair video's thanks to you i've learned to repair and fault find on bad capacitors shorts and broken connections even without a multimeter which is hard but i've figured things out but i'm ordering 1 off ebay brand new to do even better work to save throwing great items away and re use them again thank you for all you'r video's Vince u'r a Legend mate :D
The spot that says "ANT" is the internal antenna so if a coil was soldered to it the radio would work better but it also has to be set for uk or us if the chip supports changing the region
I'm thinking the epoxy will keep the copper from oxidizing. Nail varnish before hand could flake off easier than the straight epoxy thus causing the epoxy to fail to seal the board.
Nice Work, things to consider: Lupe inspect all the board first. what you could do next time. Problem: No audio-> check all channels-> no audio, no interference, no pops no hiss, means the audio line is interrupted ( there's always a little noise in the lines) -> follow the audio path with your audio probe and multimeter . Tip: with 3v is very rare to get ceramic capacitors to short. Check electrolytic for bleed ( brown tracks). Good luck
Instead of epoxy you can use varnish paint (actually varnish is commonly used in electronics fabrication to isolate them from water) (nail varnish works as well) or solder mask under UV light (recommended). If you use epoxy and if you need to remove it later to fix something under it will be harder for you But if you can cover the cooper in solder it will work the same way, no need for extra protection
Nice job at repairing that damaged board, indeed using nail polish would've been ideal, personally I wouldn't have gone with epoxy like that, maybe to fix a brace onto the board for stability but instead trust in yourself and your soldering capabilities, if you've ever had to remove epoxy from components you'll know why :) Anyway Great update and Fix, Keep at it
I have used the nail hardener type of nail polish with great success over the years. Dries very hard but can be chipped away or dissolved with acetone.
Nice catch Japanesebusinessman! @Vince: that's why I bought a USB microscope, (plugable USB microscope). The other day I repaired a microscopic cut trace, impossible to see the crack with naked eyes. And also very usefull for SMDs...
On my old walkmans back in the day it was usually the headphone jacks would go on them. Sure I still have them somewhere next time I come across one I'm opening them up to have a look.
Nice fix. He was certainly observant. I don't know the size of the jumper wire you used, I use 0.25mm Kynar wire and when soldered hold the end to the reel down with a scalpel blade or stanley blade and you can break it off easily.
Thanks, nice tip with the blade. Do you know if there is any wire that can be used that you don't have to strip back, as I find stripping back the insulation on these small wires quite tricky especially when one side is soldered. I watched a TH-cam video ages ago where it looked like he was just soldering the wire without stripping it back. I wondered whether the soldering iron burnt off the insulation for him if it was especially thin :-)
@@Mymatevince Hi Vince I use a proper tool to strip my wire uk.rs-online.com/web/p/wire-strippers/0662721/ But you are talking about pencil wire. www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=Solderable+Enamelled+Copper+Wire&_sacat=0 uk.rs-online.com/web/c/?sra=oss&r=t&searchTerm=Solderable+Enamelled+Copper+Wire uk.farnell.com/search?st=Solderable%20Enamelled%20Copper%20Wire uk.farnell.com/roadrunner/rrp-103/wiring-pencil/dp/145223?st=Pencil%20wire%20tool
Very nice tool, looks quality :-) Thanks for the links to the wire. I have just purchased a small reel from eBay 0.23mm so I hope that will be thick enough for most traces/tracks :-)
Hey Vince just a word of advice. I don't have any solid evidence other than some speaker manufacturers having issues in the past but I would say be careful using epoxies to strengthen the boards like that because I have heard that some types of epoxies can soak water slowly over time like plastic and introduce problems to the electronics. Just something to think about. I'm sure your repair wont have any issues. Great job, you're becoming a master at this stuff and it's personally helped me out a lot in fixing my own old retro console lots I bought on ebay some time ago.
Vince Mate, you did great but next time try a magnetic wire,you can get it from old transformers or buy it, its thinner and better with such work as its easy to solder, send you a better iron that has many tip's i got it myself and its great also got it a fine tip that helps with that type of work, best of luck mate.
No, not magnetic wire, you mean MAGNET wire-thin copper with enamel insulation instead of the usual plastic. Very good choice for board repairs, just make sure you get through the enamel covering when you solder to it.
I have considered it but I am doing OK at the moment with the TH-cam ad revenue. If TH-cam cuts rates then maybe I can look into it but I would prefer to get the money from big businesses if possible :-) Thanks for the kind offer though :-)
Don't know if you're camera has this option but can you plug an external monitor into the video out & look at things on monitor rather than the micro screen? Just a thought
Moral of the story. Always thank your local friendly Japanese businessman. Also love how you are completely filled with joy when you hear sound coming out of the Walkman
Same here. My heart leapt when it worked.
@@TD75 mate god knows. This comment is 3 years old I don’t even remember it haha
When zoomed out you get a clear picture on how difficult this is. Everything is so tiny! With the camera zoomed in it looks so easy like "just attach the 2 bits, it's not hard" but zooming out really is eye opening as to how complex and easy to make a mess of it can be. Kudos, Vince. Glad you got there in the end. :D
Thank you mate :-)
A few years ago, he wouldn't have spotted that.
Thanks 1080p HD!!
Actually its 720p hd 1080p fhd and 4k uhd but i don't thimk these videos are 4k (yet)
This is why I love youtube,there is always someone out there willing to help, good spot seeing that crack friendly Japanese businessman and well done as always vince,im always well chuffed for ya when ya get things repaired
What a great moment there where you realized it was finally working! You’ve got yourself a great community of people interested in your channel and seeing everyone contributing all their own tips and experiences is just wonderful! Looking forward to more Walkman and Discman videos to come!
Fantastic fix, Vince! Both of these videos were a very interesting journey, from loss of hope on the first one to a joyful fix in this one! I just can't get enough of these videos.
Thank you, I am glad you like them, I like filming them :-)
*SAME*
Live repair stream with Vince would be perfect imo
Now that's a good idea.
@@jerryspann8713 yes
Congratulations!
Well done!
And also to your viewer that spotted that crack! Amazing!
Great=D I love your enthusiasm when you get something working =D I didn't spot that crack at all - it was hard to see for sure! BTW - flux interferes with the meter connections! Worth cleaning flux off before you try to check continuity!
Thanks for the tip on the flux :-) Yes the crack was very hard to see, I was looking in that corner of the board for over 1 hour originally and I didn't see it!!!!!!
Well I didn't spot it either! I am kicking myself because after watching the video I thought - I should rewind and look super close at the close up footage around that connector. I didn't lol. Sometimes you have to inspect these with magnifcation to spot things like that. Great job though! The epoxy was fine for something like this (eg. not a rare system or collectors piece etc), but if it was a rare PCB I wouldn't put epoxy over all the connections there - just because it means if someone needs to swap a component out it could be very difficult to get the epoxy off. But for something like this its perfect imo.
Thanks Chris, I will bear that in mind as no one would want to get under that blob again. Someone might be cursing me in 30 years time!!!!
Brilliant! We always do our best to help here in the comments! Seeing you fix things and how happy you get makes me happy as well! This is awesome! Well done!
I love the excited "YES!". I do exactly the same thing, air punch and all, and get so excited when I make good progress with my electronics hobby.
I admire your enthusiasm in your videos!!! Congrats!!! Good job!!!
Excellent fix vince! Always nice to see your reaction when you get something working! I didn't see that crack on the first video so well done to friendly japanese businessman for spotting that one.
Nothing really i could add, really good work. I'd only really suggest removing the battery terminal and soak in cleaner, vinegar/lemon juice for a couple hours to get rid of that rust before it gets worse.
Thanks Retro-Tyler :-)
Ah yes the fist pump of success greatness . You and tronixfix got me into wanting to fix electronics the satisfaction of fixing something is like no other
I've been fixing things before i found both of their channels but i still like to watch
I'd like to think I'm a man of patience. But I don't have your resilience. Thoroughly inspiring stuff!
It's always awesome when you can revisit the project and get positive results!!
your videos are so addicting that i lost my job cause of me watching them but it was worth love your videos keep up the good work
With the auto reverse there's a switch with "continuous loop" where it plays one side then the other continuously, and the other possition of the switch, it plays one side then the other and then stops.. Yay well done Vince, a fairly easy fix in the end! It was good seeing you elated. Your soldering is definitely coming on leaps and bounds.
Great job finding a solution to the crack, i had a gamecube controller and i ran into the same issue where i couldn't figure out where the traces went so i scrapped along the crack to expose the copper below so i could follow them, then i just repaired the traces with blobs of soulder then i used expoxy in the crack to strenghten it and it's been working wonderfully.
Was it made by nintendo or was it one of the 3rd party onez?
@@nathanmead140 it's an official GameCube controller, I previously bought off eBay.
I'm always stunned by your patience. It makes me think about going back to some parts, I'd already given up on. ;)
Also very nice spotting by the Friendly Japanese Businessman. Keep it up.
Wow successss!! I cheered about as loud as you did Vince. Great big bag of kudos to the friendly japanese businessman.
Thanks mate, it was so good hearing it play sounds again :-)
Fantastic!! You mentioned in the previous video it looked like it might have been dropped, so I'm not surprised there was a little crack! Great job gang!!
Thanks Jim, proper team effort :-)
Wow! Good eyes on 'FRIENDLY JAPANESE BUSINESSMAN'!!! That's some powerful observation there!
21:51 most genuine reaction I’ve ever seen in a TH-cam video!
Well done!
Thank you :-)
First time commenting, I recently got back into Sony Walkman’s, i purchased a WM-1, WM-22,WM-f18/f28,
Lol just saw ( YES,YES )
Anyway instead of saying shorted out, you should say “ i have continuity” usually a short is a bad thing lol.
Anyway enjoying your videos
Well done Vince. I would've given up on it but you persevered. Love your videos
Thank you :-)
I was lucky enough to find an Optelec Clearview 500 in my local recycle depot a few years ago. Newer models are very expensive but you can find the older ones on Ebay at a reasonable price. Even if they don't come with a monitor, you can easily connect a small LCD television to it. I've been able to repair even the smallest devices and jewelry with it. You would not miss a crack in the circuit board with it. Hope you can find something like this at a good price. Good luck.
It's a very good job! I really like that you're tenacious about getting to the fault, and then fixing it.
BTW, epoxy on the PCB prevents anyone else trying to fix that part of the circuit again. It's an absolute pain in the a$$ to remove epoxy. It has to be baked off the PCB. You might want to get some silicone conformative coating to repair the OEMs original coatings. It's what is typically used to coat the Printed Circuit Board. Great job fixing the Sony Walkman!
lovely video! i didnt saw the crack too. i was frustrated in the other video at the end beacuse i also didnt know what was the issue. a bad chip didnt seem to likely to me , but we never know. awesome awesome work! cheers ! i love your videos! i watch all of them. :)
Thanks so much :-)
Great fix. I have subscribed now to see the others being repaired. Can really hear the joy in your voice at your achievement. Well done.
I would buy that. It is a nice looking unit.
Thank you and thanks for the sub :-)
Vince u should be happy, your hard work on the things u fix (or try to) is making this people want to help u more and more :D
every time you fix something I can´t help to jump of the chair and cheer, it´s like watching soccer and your team scores a goal! I am sure that I am not alone
Yes!!! I kid you not, your videos are extremely exciting. Good work!
Thanks :-)
Nice vid Vince. Love trying to fix vids. They are awesome. Good job 👏
Epic win Vince! You've got a sharp eyed audience.
Тhe sound drifts, because the flywheel touches and rub onto something.This green stuff is protective solder mask. I use very thin coper threads smaller than track itself (the wire you use is too thick) from multi-wire wire to fix fine tracks like those, just pretin them and tracks in rosin, solder
them on the track itself or from point to point (like you do) or both. Flux is corosive, solder paste and rosin are great insulators. Epoxy is VERY MESSY thing - a couple of drops of Super glue is your best friend after fixing the cracked tracks or even to join two pieces of broken PCB. Heating it a bit with hot air - cure it instantly but stinks aweful. EXCELLENT WORK. Your joy is not madness, thats the motivating best part and satisfaction - to (fix) see something alive again :D
Great tips, thank you :-)
Nooooo that is not the best way to do that.
I see other people use the really small wires when they fix things and it annoys me
@@nathanmead140 well that is your problem. Obveously you cant use thin wires for high current but here is preferable as it draws milli or even micro amps. Those thin tracks are able to care probably half amp. If you still not convinced than look at the tracks of your PC motherboard near CPU or better dont look at them because you might get heard attack :D also the line will be less noisy
@@technixbul thin wires are only needed for current over 2 amps anything less will go through on thick wires
@@nathanmead140 just opposite ... who the hell told you that nonesense? Well if you want to make a fire this is perfect solution :D
I was so happy to see you being that much happy when you fixed it :D Good work!
A really nice fix Vince keep the videos coming mate
Vince, another thing I noticed to help you in future was that when you were wondering where the belt went, the actual circuit board had a layout printed on it. They don't all do that, but sometimes looking at the bigger picture can show you some great info, like the wires having WHT ORG et cetera on the board. Thanks for sharing with us! I've learned a lot from you, and can't wait for the next one!
Thanks Bill, yeah I didn't notice that until someone pointed it out. I will look in future if I am ever unsure :-)
So cool and wonderful when people help out and great spot by 'Friendly Japanese Businessman' :-)
CONGRATS! This was an amazing fix!
Thank you :-)
Good eyes Friendly Japanese Businessman Even with knowing where the crack is it is still hard to see on the original video.
well done ! another item saved from landfill ! think i might have gone for jumper wires "rossmann" style in case the board got flexed again, but whatever works............and you now have an iconic item to play with ! :)
Thank you :-)
Man...I watched that video three times cause it was bugging me what the problem could be. My only guess was the volume potentiometer was bad. I didn't see that crack even though it's clearly there. Great catch from the TH-camr on that.
Für Elise is such great piece. Shout out to Beethoven , though he wouldn't hear it.
He did very well to spot it. I was looking at that faulty headphone jack corner of the board for over an hour and I didn't see it :-)
Great Fix, good eye and the power of community == result!
Loving the videos Vince! Great content and you've even taught me a few things. Just wanted to show my support!
I could barely see that cracked board. I use a digital zoom LCD monitor but they make digital scope for smart phones too. Check Amazon.
I actually use a USB Microscope which is way cheaper and I think its totally enough
Or use the camera on the phone i do that and it works fine
Thanks for the tip, I will check it out :-)
Revisit videos are lovely. Also bubbly.
You just couldn't let it lie, could you ! No seriously I'm so glad you fixed it after your first video, well done Vince. The board looks a little weak (IMHO) when you look at it where the indent is by the battery terminal and someones pulled about the headphone jack maybe causing the split, looks great now. It had to be the jack though, they always were the weakest part after the dumb belt clip !
Magnifying what you're looking at through the monitor is a great idea if you can get it to work all the time. Helps miopic beggerz like me lol. Amazing stuff by the way. Gives me confidence to try this myself.
Fun video, glad you was able to fix it. One problem tho, the wow-and-flutter is enormous due the fact you can hear some wheel (flywheel?) is scraping something. Could be something simple like a wire or cable that is in the way. About the epoxy, I don't think I done it the way you did because future problems are not easy to fix in that area of the blob. Maybe you had to try to find some ground points that you can bridge with some stiff wires (or shielding) on both sides. Greetz!
Check the... oh you fixed it. Good going Vince!
Great respect to japanese nation! first for making that gorgeous piece of hardware, second for discovering the crack!
AWESOME fix!.. a 'community' fix if I've ever seen one .. kudos! :)
Thanks mate :-)
Nice fix my mate Vince..dont forget also to clean the TAPE HEAD...
Cool video Vince ,working on TVs Visio waiting for parts thanks for your inspiration, And yes you can fix it that's if you listen to Vince
The most I have ever done to "repair" any electronic is spray Dust Off into the sides on my joy sticks on my controllers... I don't understand why I enjoy watching this channel on autoplay.
Always nice to come back to something and fix it. Oh and at least the tape wasn't jedward haha. Look forward to the next one.
Bloody awesome Vince. Don’t ever sell it!
Thanks mate :-)
Great result! Excellent spot Friendly Japanese Businessman.
Hello Vince, would you mind posting a list of equipment that you use for your repairs? It would be very helpful to know! Much appreciated! Keep up the great work :)
Yay.. I was hoping you would record this fix.. As usual I dropped a like Vince..
Thanks for the support :-)
Good job mate. Happy for you. Another one saved.
gosh i love all you'r repair video's thanks to you i've learned to repair and fault find on bad capacitors shorts and broken connections even without a multimeter which is hard but i've figured things out but i'm ordering 1 off ebay brand new to do even better work to save throwing great items away and re use them again thank you for all you'r video's Vince u'r a Legend mate :D
The spot that says "ANT" is the internal antenna so if a coil was soldered to it the radio would work better but it also has to be set for uk or us if the chip supports changing the region
Friendly Japanese Businessman has a good eye.Nice job.good fix.
Absolutely brilliant!, send the device to “the Japanese businessman” as a thank-you!
I'm thinking the epoxy will keep the copper from oxidizing. Nail varnish before hand could flake off easier than the straight epoxy thus causing the epoxy to fail to seal the board.
Nice fix Vince, seems like a bit of a community fix 😁
Great stuff Vince and of course FJB
How some one noticed that must have been one in a million if no one else mentioned it GREAT
He did really good to see it. Once he told me it looked so obvious but beforehand it just blended in :-)
You could maybe try using conductive paint for some of the smaller bridging work / crack repairs.
Great stuff Vince. Well done.
Fantastic video. I didnt spot it untill someone pointed it out
Nice Work, things to consider: Lupe inspect all the board first. what you could do next time. Problem: No audio-> check all channels-> no audio, no interference, no pops no hiss, means the audio line is interrupted ( there's always a little noise in the lines) -> follow the audio path with your audio probe and multimeter . Tip: with 3v is very rare to get ceramic capacitors to short. Check electrolytic for bleed ( brown tracks). Good luck
Nice tips, thanks :-)
Instead of epoxy you can use varnish paint (actually varnish is commonly used in electronics fabrication to isolate them from water) (nail varnish works as well) or solder mask under UV light (recommended).
If you use epoxy and if you need to remove it later to fix something under it will be harder for you
But if you can cover the cooper in solder it will work the same way, no need for extra protection
Nice job at repairing that damaged board, indeed using nail polish would've been ideal, personally I wouldn't have gone with epoxy like that, maybe to fix a brace onto the board for stability but instead trust in yourself and your soldering capabilities, if you've ever had to remove epoxy from components you'll know why :) Anyway Great update and Fix, Keep at it
I have used the nail hardener type of nail polish with great success over the years. Dries very hard but can be chipped away or dissolved with acetone.
Nice catch Japanesebusinessman!
@Vince: that's why I bought a USB microscope, (plugable USB microscope). The other day I repaired a microscopic cut trace, impossible to see the crack with naked eyes. And also very usefull for SMDs...
Awsome Vince 👍 way to go
Thanks :-)
i love this channel, great community
On my old walkmans back in the day it was usually the headphone jacks would go on them. Sure I still have them somewhere next time I come across one I'm opening them up to have a look.
Hey man, just got my Panasonic rx-1925 today. There’s no audio coming from the headphones, what could be some issues??
YES! YES! Listen to that! - absolute classic Vince :)
Haha :-)
Awesome bringing back from the dead 💀👍
Nice fix.
He was certainly observant.
I don't know the size of the jumper wire you used, I use 0.25mm Kynar wire and when soldered hold the end to the reel down with a scalpel blade or stanley blade and you can break it off easily.
Thanks, nice tip with the blade. Do you know if there is any wire that can be used that you don't have to strip back, as I find stripping back the insulation on these small wires quite tricky especially when one side is soldered. I watched a TH-cam video ages ago where it looked like he was just soldering the wire without stripping it back. I wondered whether the soldering iron burnt off the insulation for him if it was especially thin :-)
@@Mymatevince Hi Vince I use a proper tool to strip my wire
uk.rs-online.com/web/p/wire-strippers/0662721/
But you are talking about pencil wire.
www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=Solderable+Enamelled+Copper+Wire&_sacat=0
uk.rs-online.com/web/c/?sra=oss&r=t&searchTerm=Solderable+Enamelled+Copper+Wire
uk.farnell.com/search?st=Solderable%20Enamelled%20Copper%20Wire
uk.farnell.com/roadrunner/rrp-103/wiring-pencil/dp/145223?st=Pencil%20wire%20tool
Very nice tool, looks quality :-) Thanks for the links to the wire. I have just purchased a small reel from eBay 0.23mm so I hope that will be thick enough for most traces/tracks :-)
Hey Vince just a word of advice. I don't have any solid evidence other than some speaker manufacturers having issues in the past but I would say be careful using epoxies to strengthen the boards like that because I have heard that some types of epoxies can soak water slowly over time like plastic and introduce problems to the electronics. Just something to think about. I'm sure your repair wont have any issues. Great job, you're becoming a master at this stuff and it's personally helped me out a lot in fixing my own old retro console lots I bought on ebay some time ago.
Hey there. Thanks for the nice comment and the advice. It is always good to know different opinions. Thank you :-)
Brilliant stuff well done 👍👍
Congrats u made it!!
Awesome fix on video as always
Thank you Joseph :-)
Vince trys his best from fixing things
I love your videos! I just wish I could repair stuff myself... My disability prevents it but i love watching you figure stuff out.
I love how your wife is always doing the dishes in the background XD
Haha :-)
Better sequel than the Avengers! Really cool!
Baam Vince! Back of the net!
Haha, yes sir :-)
@@Mymatevince don't you ever stop doing that signature 'yes' sound and arm movement))) mine is 'fckd'er bud' with a grin
Vince Mate, you did great but next time try a magnetic wire,you can get it from old transformers or buy it, its thinner and better with such work as its easy to solder, send you a better iron that has many tip's i got it myself and its great also got it a fine tip that helps with that type of work, best of luck mate.
No, not magnetic wire, you mean MAGNET wire-thin copper with enamel insulation instead of the usual plastic.
Very good choice for board repairs, just make sure you get through the enamel covering when you solder to it.
@@m.k.8158 yes that one :D thanks.
Thanks, I just ordered up a small reel from eBay. I will try it out next time :-)
So cool to see it fixed and published so fast! You need to find a way to let us help your work by donating somehow! Have you considered Patreon?
I have considered it but I am doing OK at the moment with the TH-cam ad revenue. If TH-cam cuts rates then maybe I can look into it but I would prefer to get the money from big businesses if possible :-) Thanks for the kind offer though :-)
@@Mymatevince I see what you mean, it's just that I really really enjoy your videos. So let me say THANKS one more time as an unfair payment :)
Thanks man, that means a lot. Thank you :-)
Don't know if you're camera has this option but can you plug an external monitor into the video out & look at things on monitor rather than the micro screen? Just a thought
I can tell you are very happy :-)
Never underestimate the value of multiple eyes when troubleshooting.
So true :-)
I would love a link to where I can buy the tools you are using in your videos