Generally good recommendations, some more from my own experience: For soldering iron, I would actually recommend something where the heating element is integrated into the tip. You WILL get frustrated by anything where tip is separate from the heating element which is often the case in cheap ones (and I can see that even in the video). I would recommend some cheap chinese soldering iron with JBC-compatble tips, I have an Awgem SJ1 and it works great (you can get it for $70-80) I also have the same cheap microscope, except with a metal base. Works great for what I need, and you can "zoom in" by adjusting the height and focus (not sure if your version has adjustable height, mine does, seemingly same microscope different base). Also, the one I have at least, can record videos to a microsd card and can be connected to a PC if you want to. When you have adjustable height, the zoom level is plenty enough for electronics - just for reference when I zoomed in on my own scrape wound, I could see individual blood platelets forming a clot. So it's very likely you just didn't fully explore the possibilities of that cheap microscope (likely because of bad/no manual) Regarding flux it really depends on what I'm doing. For PCBs the cheap stuff in syringes works great. If you are soldering wires, especially not-brand-new wires, definitely recommend rosin as it seems to much more easily deal with any oxidation. Also in general if you are soldering anything heavily oxidized I would recommend rosin (at least if you aren't willing to spend much more on more expensive flux) Also if you are getting leaded solder - make sure to get sn63/pb37, not sn60/pb40 - the latter one is slightly cheaper but sn63/pb37 creates nicer solder joints and overall is easier to solder with. Unleaded - SAC305 is supposedely good but I haven't used it yet myself. Low melt solder with bizmuth is nice for desoldering, and maybe stuff where you can't use high temperature, not much else.
I agree on everything except for the soldering iron part. The tip selection and cheapness of said tips for for example 936 stations is just amazing. There are shims available that go in between the heating element and the tip. That, and higher quality tips with better fit can make a whole world of difference. Integrated tips are great if you want it to heat up fast, and be able to transfer lots of heat quickly though.
@Puuuszzku IMO being cheap is just about the only good part about them. Buy I guess if you are only ever going to solder things that don't require much heat it will work. And the majority of what I'm soldering needs a lot of heat quickly. You. An make it work but I don't think it will make for a good experience for beginners, especially when it's difficult to know the quality of what you are buying ahead of time. So unless someone absolutely cannot afford it, I would still recommend integrated tips.
You never go wrong with a Weller digital temperature control iron. Mine's 30 years old and used almost daily. Tips and parts are readily available. Probably more than most hobbyists are going to spend but it's so worth it. Though I'll admit I've got a collection of irons I use because swapping irons is easier than swapping tips. Weller, Hakko, Metcal if you find one reasonably priced ... those are what I'd get if you want it to last forever.
Yeah Idk, I've bought a mains-powered electronically-controlled soldering iron for less than 15 EUR a few weeks ago, just so that I have one that fits in my toolbox, in addition to my soldering station. It works perfectly fine. If you want a decent soldering station without breaking the bank, Ali offers JBC-knockoffs that use the same heating technology, plus those have very short tips, so you can hold it more like a pencil with your fingers in an advanced position, making it easier to work on small parts. The Hako-style soldering station clone (8582D) you are showing tends to also be crap - low thermal mass and mediocre heating performance. Plus the plastic of the handle is usually inferior and breaks because of the heat cycles. I would not tell someone to buy these anymore.
Finding a good pair of tweezers is an absolute pain, I personally like the mechanic branded KA-11 but the tips are so fine they're easy to bend. If you want no bend look into Ceramic tweezers, they'll break before they bend to much. My issue with them is they're kind of bulky.
I grew up as a kid having to use those $10 radioshack firesticks, hated them but its all we had, was happy being allowed to have a soldering iron in my childhood. If you can learn to solder on one of those awful things, you'll find you're an expert once you get to use a nice soldering station.
I can confidently recommend Antex Soldering Irons for an absolute solid basics iron. Designed for schools the are _robust,_ i used these at school 30 years ago. They also make stations target than just irons. Inexpensive and bullet proof, heats up quite quickly and has a burn proof silicon cable.
Antec's entry level Station is the Antex 660A at a £150. All of the irons are replaceable, good selection of tips, can also recommend. I dunno about the irons in the video, but Antex's tangle free silicon cable is great too, I love it.
Even the one soldering station displayed is out of date now due to how "939" style tips work. Buy a temperature controlled iron with T12 (good) or C245 (better) tips. There are lots of options online. You can buy a hot air station separately.
I probably wouldn't use solder paste for anything but reflow soldering with a stencil and an oven / hot plate. For rework it's a lot easier to clean the pads, add new solder with an iron, and then squirt some flux down. That will hold your component while the air melts the solder and the component sticks into place. No need to worry about internal bridging that you can't see and you're much more likely to get a solid connection with the right amount of solder.
Great video man, Not many people make "what not to buy" videos. one of the reasosn is, TH-camrs in general make a positive video about a product because they are sponsored, they get nothing out of making not to buy videos, if anything they will stay away, not to be know as a person that gives honest negative view. with irons ive had so many but the best yet has been the Yihua 8786, which is one of the cheapest online. if anyone wants to et an iron is, they need to get one with temp control and display. The second thing is the tips. If i get the tips from the Yihua, and put it on the weller that is performing likecrap. due to the quality of the tip, even on a bad iron, its able to solder. some expensive irons, regardless of what the temp is, the material of the tip, doesnt allow it to be cleaned and tinned properly. My suggestion to make soldering more enjoyable is, More lead, dont be afraid, go nuts on the lead. Its our friend :) I know so many people saying Lead might be bad, while they have cigarettes' in the mouth and holding a vodka in one hand :)
If serious about repairing stuff Get quality branded kit a minimum Multi meter Solder station Hot air station Various flux types Linear variable PSU Quality bench light Optical microscope is a requirement if dealing with the micro world & numerous other gear that help with this hobby / profession. I use a metcal solder station which is crazy priced new but quality kit can be found on the second hand market.
there is a saying in hindi "sasta khreedo bar bar mehnga kharido eak bar" which roughly translates to you need to buy cheap stuff over and over again but expensive only once
i have been in debt for 5 months at my weller salesman for a complete station with through-hole desoldering, smd tweezers, microsoldering iron, robust iron, high power iron, autofeeding iron, solder bath etc and im still not at the end of it but at the least im satisfied
I have most of those tools, but mostly from Yihua. I think it's safe to assume I spent about 1/10 what you did, and every tool on my bench is a pure pleasure to use.
I would always look for locally produced tweezers and scissors etc. the ones from aliexpress are not as good. Even the very hard metal ones, they don't have any teeth and the points are weak. Compared to ones I recycled from the NHS in the UK, which have stronger heads but most importantly they have teeth, and grip everything very well. Thanks for sharing your experiences. I am also starting out, and it does get very expensive very quick. Tomorrow my hot air station arrives, I'll be practicing taking stuff off and putting it back haha
I have 7" LCD version of a microscope you had shown as bad. In my opinion, you're both right and wrong. if you intend to use it out of the box, it is bad. But if you buy steady arm for it (like for microphone), you'll be able to use it at the angle, and your usable workplace is actually unlimited. You may place it as close to the soldered stuff as like and magnification is no longer an issue. I'd actually recommend to buy steady long arm for any microscope.
The best tweezers I have come from the hospital, they have 'single use' tools, the quality is really good and they were free. Yes I have cleaned them very well!!
As tweezers go, i have a mechanic AAX-17 that i really like. I don't know how other people use tweezers but i do not think i will ever bend these with normal use in electronics. Also they have that ''z'' shape that for me at least is very useful.
I have no understanding of why anyone would want soldier as a hobby, to get tools that actually work is expensive, to actually soldier takes training and a lot of practice, it's something the crap from Amazon or Aliexpress is not going to work and the videos on TH-cam only scratch the surface of how to do it. I know, I have over 20 years as a Certified Master Electronics Technician.
Some plain irons can have "temperature" "adjusted" by moving tip closer or further from the heating element. In my opinion a plain iron is fine for starting out, be it a good one. But modern chinese crap may have tips that just will not take solder, and for someone that just started soldering it will not be a fun time.. As for the flux i like rosin, since it is something proven and not easily faked. Random chinese flux may be corrosive or conductive, potentially ruining your PCBs.
Broooo... Lead boils in a far far higher temperature compared to soldering temperatures. You ain't getting lead poisoning from soldering.... Sorry... Just no... Unless I guess you get all the small solder balls in your sandwich or something. And then I still don't know whether or not a large amount can still reach into your blood stream. The smoke is from the flux. Usually the sweeter it smells, then the more cancerous, so use ventilation. Leaded solder is far easier for beginners to work with compared to unleaded. Unleaded solder oxidizes much fast, needing constantly adding flux and has a much higher surface tension, which makes it far harder to bridge, which if you are using a pref board as a beginner, this can be of course both good and bad, but usually it's more difficult to control when still learning. Also when it bridges it's far more difficult to separate, mechanically, like by flicking the soldsering iron between the pads. It's also far more brittle, although I don't know if it is that crucial for beginners. And it feels, I haven't checked, far less heat conductive. If you are beginner.... Definitely use leaded solder... The end.
You explained it well, and I agree with your points. I mentioned in the video that leaded solders are more forgiving, but since switching to unleaded, I've noticed fewer whiskers. Another challenge was the EU's leaded solder restrictions. While you can still find it from unbranded sources, it's hit or miss. You're right that smoke is flux, not evaporated lead. For beginners, leaded solder is easier to work with, though I no longer use it myself.
@makersfunduck that is true, as far as I also heard, that unleaded solder tends to create less problems with whiskers, but for beginners that's details they will only deal with far later in the hobby, if ever. I've also noticed, it's not that easy to find leaded solder any more, I also live in the EU. Probably it's time to stock up. Though, as far as I know, it's still allowed for repairs, especially for medical and military equipment, so we aren't going to see a complete ban any time soon.
I'm personally not worried about lead fumes, but rather the tiny particles that you create whenever you clean your tip. I once took the brass sponge out of its holder to clean it out, and a bunch of grey dust came out -- presumably all the solder I had cleaned off the tip of my iron over the years. Some of the dust particles were quite fine, so I think it would be really easy to leave some on your work surface, get it on your hands/clothes, spread it around the house, and eventually ingest it. I've had better experience with name brands of lead-free solder than with no-name stuff. For a while I was using low temperature lead-free solder (which contains bismuth, and ends up with an even lower melting point than Pb/Sn), but it's fairly brittle, so I've switched to standard SAC305 for most work.
You are simply, incorrect. You don't have to get a substance to boiling temperature for it to turn into a gaseous form. This process is described by vapor pressure. Lead has a vapour pressure of about 600C at atmospheric pressure. While the soldering iron does not get that hot, tiny amounts of lead can still get very hot due to how energy transfer works. Most metals are not volatile at room temp, they are definitely volatile while molten. Additionally, the boiling flux is also a problem, because most leaded solder has flux embedded in the core of the solder, the boiling flux can and will carry some aerosolized lead with it when it gets boiled quickly like that. While the risk of inhaling some lead isn't gigantic, you will still inhale microscopic amounts. And because your body stores lead indefinitely, it will build up over time until it becomes problematic. If you just solder occasionally, leaded solder isn't a problem, if your day job is soldering and you will continue to solder for decades, please use unleaded solder. That aside, lead flux usually contains acid, which can be incredible toxic on it's own.
Well, I mentioned that the leaded ones worked well, but I stopped using them due to concerns I had. I hope you didn’t categorize this one as trash as well :)
Lead is dangerous for environment, it doesn't evaporate so no concerns for the smoke. I strong suggest getting a fume extractor, cause the fluxes fumes are dangerous if you solder often.
@@buug76 Considering the amount of lead in the environment from leaded petrol, I do not think a little solder is going to make much of a difference now, I think a lot of the concern was because of e-waste going to landfill, yes the flux fume are more dangerous, an extractor is a must.
Here leaded petrol has been abandoned I think more than 20 years ago. The fact is that you have to consider the lead like water: when it is a wire is like ice, when you melt it is like water, it becomes vapour at around 1800C. So no concerns for your health while soldering. The leaded tin allows you to lower the temperature of your iron, in that case the flux releases less dangerous gases.
Boss, your soldering skills are really bad! Your attempt to take out an SMD capacitor with a dry iron bit is proof. For desoldering smd components it is best to add a little solder to both the terminals of the component, and then heat them together.
Speaking as someone who has purchased supplies but has yet to actually start soldering, thank you for more inspiring videos!
I'm glad you enjoyed it :)
Generally good recommendations, some more from my own experience:
For soldering iron, I would actually recommend something where the heating element is integrated into the tip. You WILL get frustrated by anything where tip is separate from the heating element which is often the case in cheap ones (and I can see that even in the video). I would recommend some cheap chinese soldering iron with JBC-compatble tips, I have an Awgem SJ1 and it works great (you can get it for $70-80)
I also have the same cheap microscope, except with a metal base. Works great for what I need, and you can "zoom in" by adjusting the height and focus (not sure if your version has adjustable height, mine does, seemingly same microscope different base). Also, the one I have at least, can record videos to a microsd card and can be connected to a PC if you want to. When you have adjustable height, the zoom level is plenty enough for electronics - just for reference when I zoomed in on my own scrape wound, I could see individual blood platelets forming a clot. So it's very likely you just didn't fully explore the possibilities of that cheap microscope (likely because of bad/no manual)
Regarding flux it really depends on what I'm doing. For PCBs the cheap stuff in syringes works great. If you are soldering wires, especially not-brand-new wires, definitely recommend rosin as it seems to much more easily deal with any oxidation. Also in general if you are soldering anything heavily oxidized I would recommend rosin (at least if you aren't willing to spend much more on more expensive flux)
Also if you are getting leaded solder - make sure to get sn63/pb37, not sn60/pb40 - the latter one is slightly cheaper but sn63/pb37 creates nicer solder joints and overall is easier to solder with. Unleaded - SAC305 is supposedely good but I haven't used it yet myself. Low melt solder with bizmuth is nice for desoldering, and maybe stuff where you can't use high temperature, not much else.
I agree on everything except for the soldering iron part. The tip selection and cheapness of said tips for for example 936 stations is just amazing.
There are shims available that go in between the heating element and the tip. That, and higher quality tips with better fit can make a whole world of difference.
Integrated tips are great if you want it to heat up fast, and be able to transfer lots of heat quickly though.
@Puuuszzku IMO being cheap is just about the only good part about them. Buy I guess if you are only ever going to solder things that don't require much heat it will work. And the majority of what I'm soldering needs a lot of heat quickly. You. An make it work but I don't think it will make for a good experience for beginners, especially when it's difficult to know the quality of what you are buying ahead of time. So unless someone absolutely cannot afford it, I would still recommend integrated tips.
You never go wrong with a Weller digital temperature control iron. Mine's 30 years old and used almost daily. Tips and parts are readily available. Probably more than most hobbyists are going to spend but it's so worth it. Though I'll admit I've got a collection of irons I use because swapping irons is easier than swapping tips. Weller, Hakko, Metcal if you find one reasonably priced ... those are what I'd get if you want it to last forever.
Yeah Idk, I've bought a mains-powered electronically-controlled soldering iron for less than 15 EUR a few weeks ago, just so that I have one that fits in my toolbox, in addition to my soldering station. It works perfectly fine. If you want a decent soldering station without breaking the bank, Ali offers JBC-knockoffs that use the same heating technology, plus those have very short tips, so you can hold it more like a pencil with your fingers in an advanced position, making it easier to work on small parts. The Hako-style soldering station clone (8582D) you are showing tends to also be crap - low thermal mass and mediocre heating performance. Plus the plastic of the handle is usually inferior and breaks because of the heat cycles. I would not tell someone to buy these anymore.
I have had a Weller station for over 30 years and still going strong. Industry standard cannot be beaten !
Finding a good pair of tweezers is an absolute pain, I personally like the mechanic branded KA-11 but the tips are so fine they're easy to bend. If you want no bend look into Ceramic tweezers, they'll break before they bend to much. My issue with them is they're kind of bulky.
I grew up as a kid having to use those $10 radioshack firesticks, hated them but its all we had, was happy being allowed to have a soldering iron in my childhood. If you can learn to solder on one of those awful things, you'll find you're an expert once you get to use a nice soldering station.
I can confidently recommend Antex Soldering Irons for an absolute solid basics iron.
Designed for schools the are _robust,_ i used these at school 30 years ago.
They also make stations target than just irons.
Inexpensive and bullet proof, heats up quite quickly and has a burn proof silicon cable.
Antec's entry level Station is the Antex 660A at a £150.
All of the irons are replaceable, good selection of tips, can also recommend.
I dunno about the irons in the video, but Antex's tangle free silicon cable is great too, I love it.
Top soldering tip... If you fit those anti snore strips across your nose while soldering, I ain't the sharing type (c:
brooo :D
Even the one soldering station displayed is out of date now due to how "939" style tips work. Buy a temperature controlled iron with T12 (good) or C245 (better) tips. There are lots of options online. You can buy a hot air station separately.
I probably wouldn't use solder paste for anything but reflow soldering with a stencil and an oven / hot plate. For rework it's a lot easier to clean the pads, add new solder with an iron, and then squirt some flux down. That will hold your component while the air melts the solder and the component sticks into place. No need to worry about internal bridging that you can't see and you're much more likely to get a solid connection with the right amount of solder.
If you want good tweezers, go to pharmacy and buy reusable surgery tools - those are the best you can get.
I wasnt aware those were available for the normal people. Thanks for the tip. definetly try.
Don't know if all pharmacies carry it, though your friendly neighborhood med student will probably be able to point you in the right direction.
Great video man, Not many people make "what not to buy" videos. one of the reasosn is, TH-camrs in general make a positive video about a product because they are sponsored, they get nothing out of making not to buy videos, if anything they will stay away, not to be know as a person that gives honest negative view. with irons ive had so many but the best yet has been the Yihua 8786, which is one of the cheapest online. if anyone wants to et an iron is, they need to get one with temp control and display. The second thing is the tips. If i get the tips from the Yihua, and put it on the weller that is performing likecrap. due to the quality of the tip, even on a bad iron, its able to solder. some expensive irons, regardless of what the temp is, the material of the tip, doesnt allow it to be cleaned and tinned properly. My suggestion to make soldering more enjoyable is, More lead, dont be afraid, go nuts on the lead. Its our friend :) I know so many people saying Lead might be bad, while they have cigarettes' in the mouth and holding a vodka in one hand :)
If serious about repairing stuff
Get quality branded kit
a minimum
Multi meter
Solder station
Hot air station
Various flux types
Linear variable PSU
Quality bench light
Optical microscope is a requirement if dealing with the micro world
& numerous other gear that help with this hobby / profession.
I use a metcal solder station which is crazy priced new but quality kit can be found on the second hand market.
there is a saying in hindi "sasta khreedo bar bar mehnga kharido eak bar" which roughly translates to you need to buy cheap stuff over and over again but expensive only once
i have been in debt for 5 months at my weller salesman for a complete station with through-hole desoldering, smd tweezers, microsoldering iron, robust iron, high power iron, autofeeding iron, solder bath etc and im still not at the end of it but at the least im satisfied
buy once, cry once I guess lol
I have most of those tools, but mostly from Yihua. I think it's safe to assume I spent about 1/10 what you did, and every tool on my bench is a pure pleasure to use.
@@yannrampitsch yea thats the spirit
Thanks for the warning. I was about the buy the cheap microscope that you mentioned.
I would always look for locally produced tweezers and scissors etc. the ones from aliexpress are not as good. Even the very hard metal ones, they don't have any teeth and the points are weak. Compared to ones I recycled from the NHS in the UK, which have stronger heads but most importantly they have teeth, and grip everything very well.
Thanks for sharing your experiences. I am also starting out, and it does get very expensive very quick. Tomorrow my hot air station arrives, I'll be practicing taking stuff off and putting it back haha
I have 7" LCD version of a microscope you had shown as bad. In my opinion, you're both right and wrong. if you intend to use it out of the box, it is bad. But if you buy steady arm for it (like for microphone), you'll be able to use it at the angle, and your usable workplace is actually unlimited. You may place it as close to the soldered stuff as like and magnification is no longer an issue. I'd actually recommend to buy steady long arm for any microscope.
The best tweezers I have come from the hospital, they have 'single use' tools, the quality is really good and they were free.
Yes I have cleaned them very well!!
I recommend cross jaw tweezers
As tweezers go, i have a mechanic AAX-17 that i really like. I don't know how other people use tweezers but i do not think i will ever bend these with normal use in electronics. Also they have that ''z'' shape that for me at least is very useful.
have you tried hakko tweezers?
nice easy to understand
I have no understanding of why anyone would want soldier as a hobby, to get tools that actually work is expensive, to actually soldier takes training and a lot of practice, it's something the crap from Amazon or Aliexpress is not going to work and the videos on TH-cam only scratch the surface of how to do it. I know, I have over 20 years as a Certified Master Electronics Technician.
mastertools makes good quality tweezers at ok price but idk if you can buy them in usa they are pretty popular in india
Some plain irons can have "temperature" "adjusted" by moving tip closer or further from the heating element. In my opinion a plain iron is fine for starting out, be it a good one. But modern chinese crap may have tips that just will not take solder, and for someone that just started soldering it will not be a fun time..
As for the flux i like rosin, since it is something proven and not easily faked. Random chinese flux may be corrosive or conductive, potentially ruining your PCBs.
Antex make great beginners irons, they're designed for school use.
Built like a bomb shelter
Broooo... Lead boils in a far far higher temperature compared to soldering temperatures.
You ain't getting lead poisoning from soldering.... Sorry... Just no... Unless I guess you get all the small solder balls in your sandwich or something. And then I still don't know whether or not a large amount can still reach into your blood stream.
The smoke is from the flux. Usually the sweeter it smells, then the more cancerous, so use ventilation.
Leaded solder is far easier for beginners to work with compared to unleaded.
Unleaded solder oxidizes much fast, needing constantly adding flux and has a much higher surface tension, which makes it far harder to bridge, which if you are using a pref board as a beginner, this can be of course both good and bad, but usually it's more difficult to control when still learning. Also when it bridges it's far more difficult to separate, mechanically, like by flicking the soldsering iron between the pads.
It's also far more brittle, although I don't know if it is that crucial for beginners.
And it feels, I haven't checked, far less heat conductive.
If you are beginner.... Definitely use leaded solder... The end.
You explained it well, and I agree with your points. I mentioned in the video that leaded solders are more forgiving, but since switching to unleaded, I've noticed fewer whiskers. Another challenge was the EU's leaded solder restrictions. While you can still find it from unbranded sources, it's hit or miss.
You're right that smoke is flux, not evaporated lead. For beginners, leaded solder is easier to work with, though I no longer use it myself.
@makersfunduck that is true, as far as I also heard, that unleaded solder tends to create less problems with whiskers, but for beginners that's details they will only deal with far later in the hobby, if ever.
I've also noticed, it's not that easy to find leaded solder any more, I also live in the EU. Probably it's time to stock up.
Though, as far as I know, it's still allowed for repairs, especially for medical and military equipment, so we aren't going to see a complete ban any time soon.
I'm personally not worried about lead fumes, but rather the tiny particles that you create whenever you clean your tip. I once took the brass sponge out of its holder to clean it out, and a bunch of grey dust came out -- presumably all the solder I had cleaned off the tip of my iron over the years. Some of the dust particles were quite fine, so I think it would be really easy to leave some on your work surface, get it on your hands/clothes, spread it around the house, and eventually ingest it.
I've had better experience with name brands of lead-free solder than with no-name stuff. For a while I was using low temperature lead-free solder (which contains bismuth, and ends up with an even lower melting point than Pb/Sn), but it's fairly brittle, so I've switched to standard SAC305 for most work.
You are simply, incorrect. You don't have to get a substance to boiling temperature for it to turn into a gaseous form. This process is described by vapor pressure. Lead has a vapour pressure of about 600C at atmospheric pressure. While the soldering iron does not get that hot, tiny amounts of lead can still get very hot due to how energy transfer works. Most metals are not volatile at room temp, they are definitely volatile while molten. Additionally, the boiling flux is also a problem, because most leaded solder has flux embedded in the core of the solder, the boiling flux can and will carry some aerosolized lead with it when it gets boiled quickly like that. While the risk of inhaling some lead isn't gigantic, you will still inhale microscopic amounts. And because your body stores lead indefinitely, it will build up over time until it becomes problematic. If you just solder occasionally, leaded solder isn't a problem, if your day job is soldering and you will continue to solder for decades, please use unleaded solder.
That aside, lead flux usually contains acid, which can be incredible toxic on it's own.
Depends on what you buy, I usually buy tin without rosin inside. Also a.lot of lead free Tim contain rosin. Lead vapour temperature is around 1800C.
Any mains powered iron is an instant no no. There are plenty of PSU powered irons on the market, don't buy cheap, you get what you get !
Legend. Thanks!
Should be possible to hook a normal soldering iron up to a variable transformer for a little more control.
Might be, but how do you plan to make a feedback loop for the temperature?
Don’t need to unless you have to get the temperature perfectly set - old irons never had ‘em
This. I have several burnt soldering irons. Too cold then extremely hot.
9:34 hahahahaha I bought same crap. yup, piece of garbage
my two cents: look for Vetus tweezers
i think you are using iron tips for your soldering iron you should try copper one
I also have those, and I dont recommend them. they get dirty real quick, and hard to clean.
What language is this meant to be?
if you need to use a microscope you shouldnt be using a barggain bin iron.
I have another type of microscope, but recording quality is not as good as you show in the video. Did you edited to enhance quality?
Where are U from ur accent looks very similar :)
any video recommend lead free solder is just garbage i should stop watching it now, i think everyone know that unless they have never solder before
Well, I mentioned that the leaded ones worked well, but I stopped using them due to concerns I had. I hope you didn’t categorize this one as trash as well :)
Lead is dangerous for environment, it doesn't evaporate so no concerns for the smoke. I strong suggest getting a fume extractor, cause the fluxes fumes are dangerous if you solder often.
@@buug76 Considering the amount of lead in the environment from leaded petrol, I do not think a little solder is going to make much of a difference now, I think a lot of the concern was because of e-waste going to landfill, yes the flux fume are more dangerous, an extractor is a must.
Here leaded petrol has been abandoned I think more than 20 years ago. The fact is that you have to consider the lead like water: when it is a wire is like ice, when you melt it is like water, it becomes vapour at around 1800C. So no concerns for your health while soldering. The leaded tin allows you to lower the temperature of your iron, in that case the flux releases less dangerous gases.
Never had major issues with lead free. I don't use lead as I solder in my bedroom (with a window open) and don't want little bits of lead everywhere.
Lead rhymes with wed, not weed.
Boss, your soldering skills are really bad! Your attempt to take out an SMD capacitor with a dry iron bit is proof. For desoldering smd components it is best to add a little solder to both the terminals of the component, and then heat them together.