I have helped replace 3 well pumps over the past few years at work. All over 200' 2" galvanised pipe. We use a front end loader, heavy steel cable and a couple pipe vices to keep the pipe in place while moving the cable. It is slow but way cheaper than having a company come out.
This isn't a criticism, I'm just now preparing to have a well drilled myself so I'm trying to get educated. I noticed that there wasn't a place on the well pump for a safety rope (way to retrieve the pump) do you feel that it isn't necessary if you use scheduled 80 PVC ? and why no pitless adapter?
be sure to add a cable or a poly rope to pump as to take some pressure off your pipe. it also saves the pump if pipe breaks in well. steel or stainless steel will get ate up if you have sulfur or hard water, use a poly rope at that point. take care thanks
Just had a well drilled at a neighbour's house, it has enough head to reach 20 foot above ground level. He still used a pump, because he wanted more flow. The pump doubled the free flow.
Countreeman - There wasn’t any teaching going on here! All they did was talk about arresters, back up hand pumps, water flow rates, and water levels! Useless information for replacing an existing pump! I’m a handy sort of guy, but I know little to nothing about well pumps. I can learn most anything about this stuff. If this video was informative, I would know more right now! To get someone to come out with all that equipment would be very expensive, and I don’t have equipment like that! I called the only well guy locally, and he was going to charge me over $2200 to do what this guy did! A lot of help this was! It was a total waste of time!
What ever You do NEVER use PVC Pipe in a Water Well. Use 1" Black Roll Plastic. The Black Roll Plastic is flexible. You can use a Tractor, 4x4 Wheeler or Truck to pull a Pump from the well, Not A Crane. IF You use PVC pipe You Will have to cut the Joints when pulling the Pump, but with Roll Black Plastic the Line will Flex and You will NEVER HAVE TO CUT YOUR PIPE. Attach the Black PVC to the Pump with a Stainless Steel 1" thread to 1" Barred Pipe Fitting (Meaning one end of the pipe is threads to screw into the top of the pump, the other end of the Pipe is Barred to grip the Black Plastic Pipe, Use the Stainless Steel Band Clamps to Grip the Black Plastic Pipe to the Stainless Steel Barred Fitting). Use All Stainless Steel Band Clamps (One Note use a propane torch to heat the the Black Plastic pipe so the Pipe will Grip the Barred End of the Pipe Fitting, Tighten the Band Clamps while the Black Plastic is about 150 Degrees). Be Sure the Screw on the Clamps is Stainless Steel Screw. Use a magnet to verify the Band Clamps are All Stainless Steel. Magnet will not stick to Stainless Steel. Next use strained #12awg Copper up to 200 feet after that use #10awg up to 300 feet Wire into the Well Not Solid Wire. The Solid Wire will break at times the Strained will Not Break because it Flexible. Be Sure to tie the Wire to the Water Line ever 36 inches apart (By tying the Electrical line to the Pipe it STOP the WIRE rubbing the Earth and cutting the wires) All so Use deflectors ever 30 Feet apart, the Deflectors centers the pipe in the center of the Well hole and stops the pipe rubbing the Well wall. I use Scotch Super 33 Tape it's the best. Some times the Wire ties will cut the insulation on the Wires. When the Submerge Pump start it will rotate 180 degrees from start. This is the torque on the Electric Motor. PVC Pipe isn't designed to be Twisted and Black Plastic Pipe is. I have use the 1" inch Black Plastic up to 400 Feet with NO PROBLEMS. Next Always use a Pump with a Franklin Motor they are the Best and Most reliable that I have found, Plus their Tech Service is Great Very Knowledgeable people if You have a Problem. I have installed 100's of these Water Well Pumps and if You Follow my Instruction You want have any Problems. Next I prefer the 4 Wire Pumps and Control Box (Franklin Motor and Control Box), Meaning the Wire colors are 1. Green Equipment ground, 2. Black Common, 3. Yellow Run Wire, 4. Red Start Capacitor Wire. Meaning with a 230 VAC Well Pump the pump operates on 230 volt AC. This means You have a Control Box (with a Start and Run Capacity) mount inside your Basement, Well House or some where out of the Weather (DRY Place) normally it where Your Bladder Tank is, The Bladder Tank is a Rubber lined Water tank that whole Your Water so it can be pressurized. I normally set my water pressure at 65 to 70 psi for all Water Faucets and Hot Water Tanks. These Well pumps can operate 25 to 30 years with a Good Well Pump and installed correctly. I use a Well Pump that been in my Well for 27 years with NO Troubles. It how You install the pump into You Well. Never use any pipe Fittings made from Galvanized or Black Iron pipe or fitting that will rust. Use All Brass or Stainless Steel Fitting for Your Water or Drinking Water. These Fitting and Black Plastic Pipe will outlast You or ME. Be Safe. If You have a Trouble Call Franklin Well Pumps. Don't trust just anyone. Your Life depend on it.
Hey man where you at? I think I want you to install my pump, I'm in Orange County New York - I'll pay for your travel time. While I got you on the phone here I am about to have a submersible installed and I want to know when that pump is running so I need to have a light to show me that - does that light come with a control box??? Also I've got a 'static head' at about 30 feet, how deep should the pump be? What's best pump? Thanks in advance.
@@richardnailhistorical3445 Richard, You don't need a Light to tell you the Pump is on. Unless you just want one. I would suggest a 230vac 4 wire pump with Control Box . The 4 wires are 1# Start wire, #2 Run Wire, 3# Common, #4th is a Equipment Ground from the well pump to the Control Box to your Home Load Center (Breaker Box) to the copper Grounding Rod. That stops Lightning from shorting you Water Pump out. The rule of thumb for setting your pump from the bottom of the well up from the Bottom about 12 feet to the bottom of the Pump. I used Sta-Rite Pumps, or Gould Pumps all Stainless Steel Pump and Fittings into you well Tank, they way No Rust. I set my water pressure to cut in at 55 lbs and cutout at 70 psi. This way if You are taking a shower and you wife is washing Clothes at the same time You will have plenty of Water. The Well Pump should have a Check Valve in the Pump but if not install one before the water goes into the Bladder Tank. Use a 60 or 80 gallon Bladder Tank. If You have your cut in Pressure setting set to 55 psi then the pressure at the Bladder tank should be set at 55 psi too. The Band Clamps in the Well should be All Stainless Steel including the Screws on the Band Clamps. I always used two Band Clamps at the Pump and the line that exits the well. Control Wire. If it's 200 feet from the Well Pump to the Control Box I use #10 Strained Wire. If less than 200 feet I use #12 strained wire. Wire Colors to the Well Pump and to the Control Box is Red, Yellow, Black (Common) and Green (Equipment Ground). Be sure to water proof each of these Wire Individually and tape (Scotch 33 tape) not zip ties because is will cut into the Wire Insulation to the 1" Rolled Black Pipe. Never Use PVC in a Water Well it will Break. Seal off the top of the well Casting from bugs and insects.
I am planning on having a similar (solar) pump installed, but my water would be stored in a tank, well above the ground and flow down by gravity for use. Would you recommend placing a 3-stage water filter in-line with this pump above ground of course, or would a secondary booster pump be necessary after the storage tank?
If it does disconnect it's usually still connected to the wire so you have a chance of pulling it up. If not there are fishing tools that allow you to hook on to the pump and retrieve it
Up here in Canada we run Well temps about 42 - 44. I would of never imagined using a schedule grade glue pipe to suspend a pump, I would think it would come apart or bust.
Did I miss the stand offs to keep the pipe and wire from rubbing the well shaft? If not use and installed correctly on a fairly deep well, you will be replacing the wiring down the road before long.
I could TRY to do it but I've been looking for someone to do it for me and I've got NOTHING. I already have the well with pipe coming up. Jus need running water. I'm gonna keep watching n learning
I am Danny Maturan from Iligan City, Philippines. We had a disagreement with the officers of the water works office of our city in the manner in which the submersible pump was installed. Instead of an UPRIGHT POSITION, it was rather installed in a SLANT POSTION due to Height constraint of the reservoir. The source of the water is from a spring, collected to a tank which serve as the reservoir, where the collected water will be pump up to an elevation of about 300 meters.. I insisted to improve the set-up but they refused. So I decided to seek for more info on the proper istallation procedures to support my belief. Need you immediate reply because the motor driving the pump (20 Horsepower do not last for one year. which I believe this installation/set-up is one of the causes. Thank you for your time!
Danny Maturan The common cause for pump failure is improper tanks and pressure switches. 20 hp is normally used for small farms it's way to big for a common house use. you only need like 5gpm max for a house, along with proper bladder tanks.
it is possible that the position of the motor is not correct. The type of motor may have bearings that are radial loaded and if horizontal or partially tilted, the bearings will prematurely fail. most submersible pumps are ok to tilt or lay on their side but not all.
Thanks for another grate video . If you have not installed you offset lines to the house yet . Do yourself a favor and put 4 wire to the well . That way if things get shut down ( SHF) and you can only get a three wire pump , you will have the wire in the ground all ready . I use three wire pumps because you have a control box in the basement and that has your start capacitor in it . With a two wire pump , that is build into the motor , so if it get hit by lightning or just fails , you need to pull the pump and replace the motor . Tree wire pumps most of my service calls you can just change the box in the basement . Also install the cycle stop valve you talked about in the video . That way you do not need a big tank . You really don't get any grate storage from BIGER tanks , and you save a lot of cash . Myself I would use a cycle stop , 35 gal tank with 38 psi in blather , heavy release vale and turn PSI up to turn on at 40 PSI and shut off at 75 or 80 PSI . It's better for the pump to run higher PSi because it holds good PSI on the bearing witch is better for your pump . Hope that helps and not mad for my thoughts . Thanks again
Let me ask a question: Is 75psi too high for residential piping? Is a constant pressure pump better? Would u install a 'manual' pump also as back up? Are there filters that can be put on pump to prevent debris pick up from well to pump? Thanks
Please suggest foot valve fall and stuck in the bore well in process of replacement. trying to take it out is not working , please suggest way. since it is not letting us extend water supply pipe.
so how deep was the well and at what dept have you installed the pump? also in what state are you installing this pump?? I see you haven't used pitless adaptor .. I just had my well drilled at 305 ft with 50GPM and shopping around for a good pump to install myself.. be blessed.
I need help to convert my well that i pay to fill to a well that pulls from the ground. Any plumbers in the Dunville area that can help me out and the cost, please. Thanks Pamela
Threaded PVC pipe lengths, male 1 end, female the other... NOT glued connections! The black rubber diamond was a torque arrestor, to absorb any twisting of the pump on each startup. I prefer to use continuous length poly pipe coils though... No junctions to fail.
@@Scentsational The only problem with continuous poly pipe coils is that they are not strong enough to use in a really deep well. My well is 300 feet and I was told the poly pipe was not strong enough.
The problem with backflow through an impeller pump isn't it running back through the pump hammering stuff. It's that if the reverse flow gets the impeller spinning fast enough and it kicks back on there's a stupid amount of force that the impeller will have to absorb as it tries to start spinning the other direction. Depending on how your electrical is set up , there could be a problem with the generated electricity, but I'm not sure on household stuff.
I'm in SW Utah and our 200 foot deep well pump has failed after seven years. The company, Gardner Wells, installed it initially and I recommend them to anyone. I wish I knew what I know now when they installed it so I had a better idea of what was going on. However, I have rung out the wiring and the pump is getting power on all three legs but nothing. The pump failed with the press. sw. in the closed pos. But the overload didn't and does not open. I had changed out the control unit with a known good one and no help. Pumps don't last forever and I don't have the money to call Gardner to change it, and even though I know they would work with us, so I'm going to try to do it myself w/help. I watched/helped Gardner with a neighbors pump that had the wires chaffing against the metal casing and shorting intermittently. A gantry/hoist would sure be nice but I'm going to have to rig up something instead. I had "fiberglass" pipe sections used as well as composite casing when installed. Except for the last one of course. This video is a great help. Your "Pump Guy" seemed first rate with patience and experience knowledge. People like him don't get the respect they deserve but they know it. I would have liked to see or hear more clearly about how far from the bottom the pump was set at, how deep it was in the first place (I couldn't hear what was said), a closer view of the thing used to hold the pipe sections while dropping it in and a little more of the well cap that was used to suspend everything. Other than those things it is a good video, produced and explained well.
Hey 777. I have a 4 inch casing and a 2inch discharge on my 5hp pump with metal pipe . Do you think the simple pump will even fit inside the 4inch? The wires plus the 2 inch coupler on the pipe being the tightest spot that it has to slip by. Also how difficult is it to pump from your static level?
someone ran over the well with their truck. How do I fix the broken mess? It's a rather large pvc pipe (5in?)? I think there is a wire coming out also and possibly some other smaller pvc pipe. I guess I have to dig it up anyway cause i dont like the way it is plumbed (need faucet or tap(s) closer to well if possible). Somewhere i found a pvc top...oh yeah it was from Gary, his got lightning strike and insurance repair.
Does anyone know how to make a well cover like the one he has? Or the name of it? I have no idea how to start creating that. I also need 3 separate holes for wires, water pipe, and air valve, kind of like what he has. Thanks!
yes that's what he is saying. water will weigh considerable when pumped long distances and it can actually break the pipe if sufficient check valves are not installed.
ok, i think I want one of these style caps. can you help me get and or install this? I'll show the video to the well driller repair man, but I doubt he'll want to follow some other guy's method after doing his way for 40 years. I am near benton harbor, Michigan.
I was just thinking, young dudes or dudeetts would be smart to get into the well water biz. and here you are. good for you man, it sounds like your enjoining it.
I was surprised to see the plastic well casing. We have to have steel casing driven into ledge/bedrock. Our well is 800' and we get 1/4 gallon per minute. ;-)
Goodness gracious 800 ft. , 1/4 gallon per minute , I feel for you my friend . I just had a well done in southern Mo. highlands , driller was telling me he just did a well In Arkansas 700 ft. 4 gallon a minute , I thought that was sad , mine went 310 ft. at 20 gal a minute , metal casing with a sch. 40 PVC liner , hit bedrock at 160 ft. , 9400 bucks , you can bet I was glad when that was over . wore me out and all I did was watch .Ha!
***** Hi ya neighbor ! Not likely you could ' DIG ' it yourself , the ground around here is way to rocky and hard and you might hit a gigantic boulder then what ?. Even my garden beds are all raised beds , which is really not a big deal . How deep ? Varies I am at 1475 ft. above sea level ,which is pretty elevated ,I am on the Ozark Highlands , my neighbor 3/4 mile to the south is just under 400 ft deep . Best to hire a rep-ital well driller , be careful though you can get scammed real easy !!!!!!!!! My well was pretty pricey but I went the extra mile so to speak, with a double well casing , be mindful well drillers usually only drill the well , meaning they will not do any trenching or backhoe work you are responsible for that being said you have to arraign for a backhoe to run the water line to install tank elect ect . or you will not be able to check if you well even works .Best to budget 10,000 $ and hope it works out less , I budgeted 7500 and it went 9400 plus back hoe work ! Hope this helped you out . Happy trails !
mandewey3456 Most the wells here are 80/120 ft deep total they can produce normally 35 to 350 gpm. We're sitting on the largest water table in the state.
Useful video E775 Tell me, what was the cost of having the well drilled + any surveys carried out prior to operation? Do you need a permit to drill in US ?
I am having a problem with my bore well at home. It's a new bore that we have drilled to 500ft and sent a sub motor inside up to 480ft. We get a min water for house use only. Some times 20min in the morning. The water level is low at my site. But my problem is, the very 1st pipe that connects to my Submerge moto always gets bulged and burst in the middle of the pipe. What could be the reason? My bore technician also says that he has not come across this issue in his whole experience. This has happened 2 times now in 1 month itself.
Just going over a few of the technicals of your application, there is head water pressure of 0.43 psi per vertical foot. So a depth of 480 ft * 0.43psi = 206.4 psi static pressure (static pressure is water not moving and filling the vertical 480 ft pipe) I don't know the outlet size of your pipe, but a schedule 40 one inch diameter pipe maximum operating pressure is 270 psi. Your static load is 206.4 psi without the pump even engaged. Depending on the hp of your pump motor, the pump has to against a 206.4 psi load and then put enough energy into a 480 ft static column of water and get it moving. Also you have to add the additional load from the water holding pressure tank which might be 60- 100 psi just on its own. So with static pressure of 206.4 psi + pressure tank of 60 psi = 266.4 psi. So if your maximum operating pressure on a 1" line is 270 psi (a bigger diameter pipe is even lower, for example 1.5" = 198 psi ) you are just starting to move the water with an operating pressure that is 99% of maximum operating pressure and that is the static load only. And just like a industrial motor starting, you have to put in more energy to overcome the inertial mass of the motor and friction loads before you are up to running speed. That initial starting torque can be 200% more than the continuous running speed. In your case, trying to move a 480 ft column of water with pipe friction losses of 500Ft or more from your pump to your house into a 60 psi holding tank might put momentary pressures on that bottom pipe of 700 psi or more. Plus, the water itself gets heated up from all that pump work being done on moving that water, so the bottom of your well pipe schedule 40 pipe will be weaker from any temperature increase than the top of the well. Sorry for the long reply...but my hunch is you are operating well in excess of your maximum operating pressure and the plastic pipe is swelling from this excessive pressure. You need metal pipe in that bottom section to handle the pressures.
biire4u thanks for the reply. I dont mind putting a metal pipe, but if i do that, i am frightened that it might get rusty on a long run and must not cut so that the pump will fall off or get caught inside the bore well. Is there anything else that you might suggest?
Why don't you guys in the US use flexible pipe. Easier to withdraw the pump from the well and only one joint to make at the pump? This is a genuine question
Engineer775, Thank you for the informative video. I also live in Upstate SC. Do you have any issues with water acidity? The biggest problem with our well water is low pH. I can only use plastic piping or stainless. Galvanized pipes and fittings don't last long and leach metals into the water
They do have distance limitations depending on the model. They can also have some interference issues depending on the pipe/casing used in the hole. The only other thing I don't know is if they would need calibrated to go through gas instead of air. I don't know if sound travels the same in both. I would talk to a dealer to find out more if you're interested.
+romdos11 Nah the simple pump is a deep well hand pump with a piston cylinder in the water. You drive it with the long handle above ground through a rod that connects in a supply line down in the water. The Braided line that's connected is a bypass, when out of power you could open a faucet in the house and pump water from the simple pump.
I've seen them last anywhere from 6months to 50 years depending on how they were treated. Tank being properly sized, tank having the right amount of air whether it's a diaphragm, bladder or standard tank. But average life span is around 12 years
The rig looks like a 5t smeal pump hoist. They are quite popular and I'm guessing there are thousands out there now. The company is now called Hunke Manufacturing.
Grundfos is a great submersible well pump to use. Used them at work and we probably had over 1,000 wells. Very reliable.
I have helped replace 3 well pumps over the past few years at work. All over 200' 2" galvanised pipe. We use a front end loader, heavy steel cable and a couple pipe vices to keep the pipe in place while moving the cable. It is slow but way cheaper than having a company come out.
We do it with a front end loader as well. We've got at least 300 m of piping, so it takes an eternity to raise and lower.
Its the rat race of time vs money, whichever cheaper wins.
Love the old man! They dont make guys like this anymore.
Not true.. Its more like, men like him don't want deal with most of you anymore. Reasons galore.
This isn't a criticism, I'm just now preparing to have a well drilled myself so I'm trying to get educated. I noticed that there wasn't a place on the well pump for a safety rope (way to retrieve the pump) do you feel that it isn't necessary if you use scheduled 80 PVC ? and why no pitless adapter?
Thank you for making such a high quality and thorough video.
Quasi Sentient I
Quasi Sentient
be sure to add a cable or a poly rope to pump as to take some pressure
off your pipe. it also saves the pump if pipe breaks in well. steel or
stainless steel will get ate up if you have sulfur or hard water, use a
poly rope at that point. take care thanks
Just had a well drilled at a neighbour's house, it has enough head to reach 20 foot above ground level. He still used a pump, because he wanted more flow. The pump doubled the free flow.
Hope mine does too! Lol
Kindly share about this specific installation truck. Specs and supplier. Thanks to you. Good work
Out in the deep country we ran rope parallel to the waterline to bear the weight of the pump
I'm so glad I found this on youtube.
Thank you for the very informative video. I have a water well and I would like to have a submersible pump installed
Thanks for the video.
We are very dry in Morocco these last three decades: we realy need this knowladge .
Thank you
Countreeman - There wasn’t any teaching going on here! All they did was talk about arresters, back up hand pumps, water flow rates, and water levels! Useless information for replacing an existing pump!
I’m a handy sort of guy, but I know little to nothing about well pumps. I can learn most anything about this stuff. If this video was informative, I would know more right now!
To get someone to come out with all that equipment would be very expensive, and I don’t have equipment like that! I called the only well guy locally, and he was going to charge me over $2200 to do what this guy did!
A lot of help this was! It was a total waste of time!
What ever You do NEVER use PVC Pipe in a Water Well. Use 1" Black Roll Plastic. The Black Roll Plastic is flexible. You can use a Tractor, 4x4 Wheeler or Truck to pull a Pump from the well, Not A Crane. IF You use PVC pipe You Will have to cut the Joints when pulling the Pump, but with Roll Black Plastic the Line will Flex and You will NEVER HAVE TO CUT YOUR PIPE. Attach the Black PVC to the Pump with a Stainless Steel 1" thread to 1" Barred Pipe Fitting (Meaning one end of the pipe is threads to screw into the top of the pump, the other end of the Pipe is Barred to grip the Black Plastic Pipe, Use the Stainless Steel Band Clamps to Grip the Black Plastic Pipe to the Stainless Steel Barred Fitting). Use All Stainless Steel Band Clamps (One Note use a propane torch to heat the the Black Plastic pipe so the Pipe will Grip the Barred End of the Pipe Fitting, Tighten the Band Clamps while the Black Plastic is about 150 Degrees). Be Sure the Screw on the Clamps is Stainless Steel Screw. Use a magnet to verify the Band Clamps are All Stainless Steel. Magnet will not stick to Stainless Steel.
Next use strained #12awg Copper up to 200 feet after that use #10awg up to 300 feet Wire into the Well Not Solid Wire. The Solid Wire will break at times the Strained will Not Break because it Flexible. Be Sure to tie the Wire to the Water Line ever 36 inches apart (By tying the Electrical line to the Pipe it STOP the WIRE rubbing the Earth and cutting the wires) All so Use deflectors ever 30 Feet apart, the Deflectors centers the pipe in the center of the Well hole and stops the pipe rubbing the Well wall. I use Scotch Super 33 Tape it's the best. Some times the Wire ties will cut the insulation on the Wires. When the Submerge Pump start it will rotate 180 degrees from start. This is the torque on the Electric Motor. PVC Pipe isn't designed to be Twisted and Black Plastic Pipe is. I have use the 1" inch Black Plastic up to 400 Feet with NO PROBLEMS. Next Always use a Pump with a Franklin Motor they are the Best and Most reliable that I have found, Plus their Tech Service is Great Very Knowledgeable people if You have a Problem.
I have installed 100's of these Water Well Pumps and if You Follow my Instruction You want have any Problems. Next I prefer the 4 Wire Pumps and Control Box (Franklin Motor and Control Box), Meaning the Wire colors are 1. Green Equipment ground, 2. Black Common, 3. Yellow Run Wire, 4. Red Start Capacitor Wire. Meaning with a 230 VAC Well Pump the pump operates on 230 volt AC.
This means You have a Control Box (with a Start and Run Capacity) mount inside your Basement, Well House or some where out of the Weather (DRY Place) normally it where Your Bladder Tank is, The Bladder Tank is a Rubber lined Water tank that whole Your Water so it can be pressurized. I normally set my water pressure at 65 to 70 psi for all Water Faucets and Hot Water Tanks. These Well pumps can operate 25 to 30 years with a Good Well Pump and installed correctly. I use a Well Pump that been in my Well for 27 years with NO Troubles. It how You install the pump into You Well. Never use any pipe Fittings made from Galvanized or Black Iron pipe or fitting that will rust. Use All Brass or Stainless Steel Fitting for Your Water or Drinking Water. These Fitting and Black Plastic Pipe will outlast You or ME. Be Safe. If You have a Trouble Call Franklin Well Pumps. Don't trust just anyone. Your Life depend on it.
Hey man where you at? I think I want you to install my pump, I'm in Orange County New York - I'll pay for your travel time. While I got you on the phone here I am about to have a submersible installed and I want to know when that pump is running so I need to have a light to show me that - does that light come with a control box??? Also I've got a 'static head' at about 30 feet, how deep should the pump be? What's best pump? Thanks in advance.
@@richardnailhistorical3445 Richard, You don't need a Light to tell you the Pump is on. Unless you just want one. I would suggest a 230vac 4 wire pump with Control Box . The 4 wires are 1# Start wire, #2 Run Wire, 3# Common, #4th is a Equipment Ground from the well pump to the Control Box to your Home Load Center (Breaker Box) to the copper Grounding Rod. That stops Lightning from shorting you Water Pump out.
The rule of thumb for setting your pump from the bottom of the well up from the Bottom about 12 feet to the bottom of the Pump. I used Sta-Rite Pumps, or Gould Pumps all Stainless Steel Pump and Fittings into you well Tank, they way No Rust. I set my water pressure to cut in at 55 lbs and cutout at 70 psi. This way if You are taking a shower and you wife is washing Clothes at the same time You will have plenty of Water. The Well Pump should have a Check Valve in the Pump but if not install one before the water goes into the Bladder Tank. Use a 60 or 80 gallon Bladder Tank. If You have your cut in Pressure setting set to 55 psi then the pressure at the Bladder tank should be set at 55 psi too. The Band Clamps in the Well should be All Stainless Steel including the Screws on the Band Clamps. I always used two Band Clamps at the Pump and the line that exits the well. Control Wire. If it's 200 feet from the Well Pump to the Control Box I use #10 Strained Wire. If less than 200 feet I use #12 strained wire. Wire Colors to the Well Pump and to the Control Box is Red, Yellow, Black (Common) and Green (Equipment Ground). Be sure to water proof each of these Wire Individually and tape (Scotch 33 tape) not zip ties because is will cut into the Wire Insulation to the 1" Rolled Black Pipe. Never Use PVC in a Water Well it will Break. Seal off the top of the well Casting from bugs and insects.
could you make a list of all the components used, including the size of the pipes ? thanks
I am planning on having a similar (solar) pump installed, but my water would be stored in a tank, well above the ground and flow down by gravity for use. Would you recommend placing a 3-stage water filter in-line with this pump above ground of course, or would a secondary booster pump be necessary after the storage tank?
Question: what if the the pump is accidentally disconnected from the pipe, is there any way to recover it?
If it does disconnect it's usually still connected to the wire so you have a chance of pulling it up. If not there are fishing tools that allow you to hook on to the pump and retrieve it
Didnt see you plumb the hand pump. How did you do it?
in the beginning you say you install the cap first then the pump ... umm what?
Up here in Canada we run Well temps about 42 - 44. I would of never imagined using a schedule grade glue pipe to suspend a pump, I would think it would come apart or bust.
+Ira Hays Those were all threaded pipes. No glue just Teflon pipe dope on the threads.
That was clearly mentioned in the video
We don't use pipes like that, We use poly makes it a lot easier to maintain later down the line
+Daedalus2801 but then are you still able to put in those check valves every however many feet?
We put the check valves on the top of the pump
Did I miss the stand offs to keep the pipe and wire from rubbing the well shaft? If not use and installed correctly on a fairly deep well, you will be replacing the wiring down the road before long.
No one uses those stand offs. Out of the 21 years I've been doing it I've never seen them on an install
The only time I've seen rubbed wire is when someone sets the pump below the casing into the rough lime rock
I want to know which cable size you can use when submersible pump is at 200m in depth
Thank you for a video. Does the pump sits are the bottom or it hangs above the bottom? If it hangs, how far away from the bottom it should be?
Depends on how much water the well puts out- you put the pump far enough under the water so it won't suck down
I could TRY to do it but I've been looking for someone to do it for me and I've got NOTHING. I already have the well with pipe coming up. Jus need running water. I'm gonna keep watching n learning
I am Danny Maturan from Iligan City, Philippines. We had a disagreement with the officers of the water works office of our city in the manner in which the submersible pump was installed. Instead of an UPRIGHT POSITION, it was rather installed in a SLANT POSTION due to Height constraint of the reservoir. The source of the water is from a spring, collected to a tank which serve as the reservoir, where the collected water will be pump up to an elevation of about 300 meters.. I insisted to improve the set-up but they refused. So I decided to seek for more info on the proper istallation procedures to support my belief. Need you immediate reply because the motor driving the pump (20 Horsepower do not last for one year. which I believe this installation/set-up is one of the causes. Thank you for your time!
Danny Maturan The common cause for pump failure is improper tanks and pressure switches. 20 hp is normally used for small farms it's way to big for a common house use. you only need like 5gpm max for a house, along with proper bladder tanks.
it is possible that the position of the motor is not correct. The type of motor may have bearings that are radial loaded and if horizontal or partially tilted, the bearings will prematurely fail. most submersible pumps are ok to tilt or lay on their side but not all.
Thanks for another grate video . If you have not installed you offset lines to the house yet . Do yourself a favor and put 4 wire to the well . That way if things get shut down ( SHF) and you can only get a three wire pump , you will have the wire in the ground all ready . I use three wire pumps because you have a control box in the basement and that has your start capacitor in it . With a two wire pump , that is build into the motor , so if it get hit by lightning or just fails , you need to pull the pump and replace the motor . Tree wire pumps most of my service calls you can just change the box in the basement . Also install the cycle stop valve you talked about in the video . That way you do not need a big tank . You really don't get any grate storage from BIGER tanks , and you save a lot of cash . Myself I would use a cycle stop , 35 gal tank with 38 psi in blather , heavy release vale and turn PSI up to turn on at 40 PSI and shut off at 75 or 80 PSI . It's better for the pump to run higher PSi because it holds good PSI on the bearing witch is better for your pump . Hope that helps and not mad for my thoughts . Thanks again
Thank You for your input. I think it was better than the video.
Let me ask a question: Is 75psi too high for residential piping? Is a constant pressure pump better? Would u install a 'manual' pump also as back up? Are there filters that can be put on pump to prevent debris pick up from well to pump? Thanks
Keep on teaching, people must do something which they know by learning not by presumption
L
Hey man I had a question about where you sourced the pvc pipe?
What a cool old-timer!
John Stryker ---He doin it right👍
KEEP TEACHING I'M STILL LEARNING GOD BLESS
Hi - can you drop one of this submersibles down a conventional well (meter diameter , 30 meters) or does it only work in a bore hole?
Please suggest foot valve fall and stuck in the bore well in process of replacement. trying to take it out is not working , please suggest way. since it is not letting us extend water supply pipe.
.. where's your Rope on the pump in case the Pipe breaks & you gotta pull it out of the well..?
also there should be wire guides every 15 feet...
great video !!!! Your camera man did a great job !!! a lot of people don't know how to take a good video. I really enjoyed watching it !
so how deep was the well and at what dept have you installed the pump? also in what state are you installing this pump?? I see you haven't used pitless adaptor .. I just had my well drilled at 305 ft with 50GPM and shopping around for a good pump to install myself.. be blessed.
I need help to convert my well that i pay to fill to a well that pulls from the ground. Any plumbers in the Dunville area that can help me out and the cost, please. Thanks Pamela
Great work please let me know how to installed pump in a boreholes pls help me
Hi, whats the purpose of the black rubber placed on top of the pump, is that stabilizer? Thanks
Hi,how can I rapier 1.5 h/p,when it's Jacking in water, and yielding points or level of water is high enough?
What exactly was the black expander that he attached to the pvc pipe? Are those pvc material white pipes or something else?
Threaded PVC pipe lengths, male 1 end, female the other... NOT glued connections! The black rubber diamond was a torque arrestor, to absorb any twisting of the pump on each startup. I prefer to use continuous length poly pipe coils though... No junctions to fail.
@@Scentsational The only problem with continuous poly pipe coils is that they are not strong enough to use in a really deep well. My well is 300 feet and I was told the poly pipe was not strong enough.
Who uses pvc pipe anymore? Guess he's insuring his future service. Got to have a lifting rig to replace the pump.
this is probably a very stupid question but how does the water get through the slits in the pipe if you grout around it?
Grout is placed above the well screen. Gravel is placed around the well screen
SIR ..HOW DO I FIND CORRECT LOCATION POINT OF GROUNDWATER ON SLOPE
Congratulation......you are doing the best job....
Why no pitless adaptor?
Sir,you have toturial vedio rewind of submeresible pump?
Is that electrical tape used to secure the wire to outside of pipe?
The problem with backflow through an impeller pump isn't it running back through the pump hammering stuff. It's that if the reverse flow gets the impeller spinning fast enough and it kicks back on there's a stupid amount of force that the impeller will have to absorb as it tries to start spinning the other direction. Depending on how your electrical is set up , there could be a problem with the generated electricity, but I'm not sure on household stuff.
That thrust blocks not big enough that's for a 4 inch well notice it doesn't even hit the sides of the casing how is it going to stabilize the pump
Can I get in touch with the pipe installer. I would like to purchase a 2 hp motor or mother and pump.
why not using an pehd pipe instead? it's flexible meaning that you can pull out the pumo more easly when something breaks
What is the size of the casing sir?
Thanks for this video. I am in the UK trying to drill my own borehole, and i need such info. very good. many thanks.
Well, pip-pip, cherri-O and all that rot, ya know. lol Ya-all come back here, ya know?
what size pipe do you use for the hand pump? Looked like 1"-11/4" for the submersible.
I'm in SW Utah and our 200 foot deep well pump has failed after seven years. The company, Gardner Wells, installed it initially and I recommend them to anyone. I wish I knew what I know now when they installed it so I had a better idea of what was going on. However, I have rung out the wiring and the pump is getting power on all three legs but nothing. The pump failed with the press. sw. in the closed pos. But the overload didn't and does not open. I had changed out the control unit with a known good one and no help. Pumps don't last forever and I don't have the money to call Gardner to change it, and even though I know they would work with us, so I'm going to try to do it myself w/help. I watched/helped Gardner with a neighbors pump that had the wires chaffing against the metal casing and shorting intermittently. A gantry/hoist would sure be nice but I'm going to have to rig up something instead. I had "fiberglass" pipe sections used as well as composite casing when installed. Except for the last one of course. This video is a great help. Your "Pump Guy" seemed first rate with patience and experience knowledge. People like him don't get the respect they deserve but they know it. I would have liked to see or hear more clearly about how far from the bottom the pump was set at, how deep it was in the first place (I couldn't hear what was said), a closer view of the thing used to hold the pipe sections while dropping it in and a little more of the well cap that was used to suspend everything. Other than those things it is a good video, produced and explained well.
7 years is a damn good length of time...
@@AdamSahr-cj4kf not really, should get 20
@@AdamSahr-cj4kf you are advised to remove pump at least every 2 years for inspections and observations.
The first and last thing I noticed was how close the casing is to being on grade. All the ones I've seen out here are at least 18 inches above grade.
Where i could by that black thing that keep pumt still?
Thanks for the education, this has been helpful.
Why not use galvanized pipe?
Hey 777. I have a 4 inch casing and a 2inch discharge on my 5hp pump with metal pipe . Do you think the simple pump will even fit inside the 4inch? The wires plus the 2 inch coupler on the pipe being the tightest spot that it has to slip by. Also how difficult is it to pump from your static level?
Always have 20% more tube/casing dia than the inserting object.
how many metres from the well floor should i place the pump
I just don't understand why they don't use black poly well pipe, seemless, won't break!
I agree, seems it's easier to take out also
someone ran over the well with their truck. How do I fix the broken mess? It's a rather large pvc pipe (5in?)? I think there is a wire coming out also and possibly some other smaller pvc pipe. I guess I have to dig it up anyway cause i dont like the way it is plumbed (need faucet or tap(s) closer to well if possible). Somewhere i found a pvc top...oh yeah it was from Gary, his got lightning strike and insurance repair.
Call your local pump company and don't go next to it someone can get heart
Tell them you need a pump fished out it a sub and how deep
Does anyone know how to make a well cover like the one he has? Or the name of it? I have no idea how to start creating that. I also need 3 separate holes for wires, water pipe, and air valve, kind of like what he has. Thanks!
Hi, I like too much your videos!
I wonder if the sumersible pump like the video works in a little lake
will u share how u drill water well? i want see waterwell machine
Can you provide us with the name of the pump or a link where we can find it?
A very nice install. I enjoyed the process.
Thank you for helping out .
Where are you located ?
Hi how big was the white pipe matt
I ujst want double check, what you are saying is to add a check valve every 100 ft?
yes that's what he is saying. water will weigh considerable when pumped long distances and it can actually break the pipe if sufficient check valves are not installed.
Where is the safety rope?
I like the cool old man he knows whats going on!!!
Who is the well guy? I'm looking for a good well company in our area.
ok, i think I want one of these style caps. can you help me get and or install this? I'll show the video to the well driller repair man, but I doubt he'll want to follow some other guy's method after doing his way for 40 years. I am near benton harbor, Michigan.
This is exactly what I do everyday and drilling wells as well down here on the Texas gulf coast. Ok g2g gotta work in the am lol
I was just thinking, young dudes or dudeetts would be smart to get into the well water biz. and here you are. good for you man, it sounds like your enjoining it.
Great video! Currently troubleshooting a collapsed well with an ESP. Found video very helpful understanding ESP installation in the first place....
How did it turn up ?
You had to re drill it eh?
Correct! Had to re-drill a new well, unfortunately.
@@ooakiny Thanks for the response eh.. Hope it worked out for you.
I was surprised to see the plastic well casing. We have to have steel casing driven into ledge/bedrock. Our well is 800' and we get 1/4 gallon per minute. ;-)
Goodness gracious 800 ft. , 1/4 gallon per minute , I feel for you my friend . I just had a well done in southern Mo. highlands , driller was telling me he just did a well In Arkansas 700 ft. 4 gallon a minute , I thought that was sad , mine went 310 ft. at 20 gal a minute , metal casing with a sch. 40 PVC liner , hit bedrock at 160 ft. , 9400 bucks , you can bet I was glad when that was over . wore me out and all I did was watch .Ha!
***** Hi ya neighbor ! Not likely you could ' DIG ' it yourself , the ground around here is way to rocky and hard and you might hit a gigantic boulder then what ?. Even my garden beds are all raised beds , which is really not a big deal . How deep ? Varies I am at 1475 ft. above sea level ,which is pretty elevated ,I am on the Ozark Highlands , my neighbor 3/4 mile to the south is just under 400 ft deep . Best to hire a rep-ital well driller , be careful though you can get scammed real easy !!!!!!!!! My well was pretty pricey but I went the extra mile so to speak, with a double well casing , be mindful well drillers usually only drill the well , meaning they will not do any trenching or backhoe work you are responsible for that being said you have to arraign for a backhoe to run the water line to install tank elect ect . or you will not be able to check if you well even works .Best to budget 10,000 $ and hope it works out less , I budgeted 7500 and it went 9400 plus back hoe work ! Hope this helped you out . Happy trails !
Bigelow Brook Farm (Web4Deb) I actually wish my 80' wells were plastic, as they would not rust.
mandewey3456 Most the wells here are 80/120 ft deep total they can produce normally 35 to 350 gpm. We're sitting on the largest water table in the state.
***** depend on how close to the water you are. Some people here dug the wells about 45' by hand.
Useful video E775 Tell me, what was the cost of having the well drilled + any surveys carried out prior to operation?
Do you need a permit to drill in US ?
I will be happy to know as well. Kindly support by subscribing
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I am having a problem with my bore well at home.
It's a new bore that we have drilled to 500ft and sent a sub motor inside up to 480ft. We get a min water for house use only. Some times 20min in the morning. The water level is low at my site.
But my problem is, the very 1st pipe that connects to my Submerge moto always gets bulged and burst in the middle of the pipe. What could be the reason? My bore technician also says that he has not come across this issue in his whole experience. This has happened 2 times now in 1 month itself.
Just going over a few of the technicals of your application, there is head water pressure of 0.43 psi per vertical foot. So a depth of 480 ft * 0.43psi = 206.4 psi static pressure (static pressure is water not moving and filling the vertical 480 ft pipe)
I don't know the outlet size of your pipe, but a schedule 40 one inch diameter pipe maximum operating pressure is 270 psi. Your static load is 206.4 psi without the pump even engaged. Depending on the hp of your pump motor, the pump has to against a 206.4 psi load and then put enough energy into a 480 ft static column of water and get it moving. Also you have to add the additional load from the water holding pressure tank which might be 60- 100 psi just on its own.
So with static pressure of 206.4 psi + pressure tank of 60 psi = 266.4 psi. So if your maximum operating pressure on a 1" line is 270 psi (a bigger diameter pipe is even lower, for example 1.5" = 198 psi ) you are just starting to move the water with an operating pressure that is 99% of maximum operating pressure and that is the static load only.
And just like a industrial motor starting, you have to put in more energy to overcome the inertial mass of the motor and friction loads before you are up to running speed. That initial starting torque can be 200% more than the continuous running speed.
In your case, trying to move a 480 ft column of water with pipe friction losses of 500Ft or more from your pump to your house into a 60 psi holding tank might put momentary pressures on that bottom pipe of 700 psi or more. Plus, the water itself gets heated up from all that pump work being done on moving that water, so the bottom of your well pipe schedule 40 pipe will be weaker from any temperature increase than the top of the well.
Sorry for the long reply...but my hunch is you are operating well in excess of your maximum operating pressure and the plastic pipe is swelling from this excessive pressure. You need metal pipe in that bottom section to handle the pressures.
biire4u thanks for the reply. I dont mind putting a metal pipe, but if i do that, i am frightened that it might get rusty on a long run and must not cut so that the pump will fall off or get caught inside the bore well. Is there anything else that you might suggest?
Why don't you guys in the US use flexible pipe. Easier to withdraw the pump from the well and only one joint to make at the pump?
This is a genuine question
Engineer775, Thank you for the informative video. I also live in Upstate SC. Do you have any issues with water acidity? The biggest problem with our well water is low pH. I can only use plastic piping or stainless. Galvanized pipes and fittings don't last long and leach metals into the water
+Ray_Biker I don't have that problem. Just go with the PVC and you should be fine.
Yes pic deep set pipe sch 120 is best and ss nipples to use
Reverse problem here in the southwest with Colorado River water and alkalinity. Same result though, even with copper.
Ok he said something about a check in line. How many feet do you put one of those in?
Big Will every 200 ft is pretty average
Does the meter work on oil wells like stripper wells? Just curious
The meter you used in the beginning of the video
They do have distance limitations depending on the model. They can also have some interference issues depending on the pipe/casing used in the hole. The only other thing I don't know is if they would need calibrated to go through gas instead of air. I don't know if sound travels the same in both. I would talk to a dealer to find out more if you're interested.
What is the rubber guide piece? Where can I get one?
that is a torque arrestor
I don't see any replies by engineer775, but I will try. Where does the simple pump connect? Into the tee through one of those braided hoses?
+romdos11 Nah the simple pump is a deep well hand pump with a piston cylinder in the water.
You drive it with the long handle above ground through a rod that connects in a supply line down in the water.
The Braided line that's connected is a bypass, when out of power you could open a faucet in the house and pump water from the simple pump.
For Preventive Failure? What is the Average Life of a Well Pump? So we can Start Saving $ ahead of time and Plan to R&R it BEFORE it fails? Thank you.
I've seen them last anywhere from 6months to 50 years depending on how they were treated. Tank being properly sized, tank having the right amount of air whether it's a diaphragm, bladder or standard tank. But average life span is around 12 years
Dude you skipped all the details at the end! Loved it other wise.
Thank you guys for sharing👍
Great Video, can the pump be used in Africa or it's only for 110v ?
+Abdul Ibrahim Check what your electric requirements are 110/220 and you will be able to get what you need.
did you say it is a backup Hand pump as well ??
how do u pull a submersible or put it back down its stuck
nice informative video. just had mine done. they placed a 40 gallon tank next to this well. does your setup require one?
Great video
I'm guessing you don't have to worry about freezing? here in NYS we would have to have a pit below frost line, and a frost free hand pump...
South Carolina tags on the well truck.
what type PVC pipe
Great work! Is that a commercially-manufactured vehicle with hoist that you are using, or is it one that you have built/put together yourself?
The rig looks like a 5t smeal pump hoist. They are quite popular and I'm guessing there are thousands out there now. The company is now called Hunke Manufacturing.
What keeps it from freezing?
how deep is your water level ?