The one thing that always bothered me with fabricating some specific mechanical part from scratch is that in the event that an acute necessity to swap it ASAP arises, you won't be able to just swap it and go, unless you make spares. It is nonetheless impressive and never fails to amaze me.
I saw the VW suspension in your part 1 and thought it was a simple mockup. Extremely surprised that they would mandate such an outdated geometry on a car like these. Cool videos nonetheless
Not sure of how popular the beetle was over there. If there were a bunch sitting in scrap yards, why not? Google "dogeban". 80s dodge van series in japan.
Excellent work! What kind of lathe are you using? As someone who wants to get into this kind of work as a hobby I'm wondering what kind of machine you're using so I can budget prices. Thanks again for the videos!
Do you own all of these machines?!?! If or if not is there a way you could build something like this without all of these machines??? Love your videos man!
Thanks. Between myself and my father yes we own all the machines you see. I think that the welder, lathe and generic tools (drill, wrenches, sockets etc) are the bare minimum you could get away with. I know someone who built a buggy without a lathe but for me it was necessary to have one to build these suspension parts.
Hi, I am designing suspension in a formula racing team. At 6:31 in the video, Can you please tell what mechanism have you used to locate the suspension points? I can see two conical things but I am not able to understand how it works. Thanks!
The rod end threads into the conical piece. The conical piece was simply a steel part I made that fit into and was welded to the tube to provide a thread for the rod end to thread into. Adjustment is done by turning the rod end in or out as required. This setup isn't perfect and I'm planning to build another design, similar but with the rod end on the same axis as the main leading arm tube.
What is the purpose of the "extra bit" of open tubing on your leading arms? I see this on a few racing cars, and my only guess is that it's done for tech inspection or I believe what's called "scrutineering" over there, so that they can check for thicknesses. It does seem to ass to the unsprung weight tho doesn't it?
The bit on the inside was that way simply to change the direction of the rod end on the leading arms. On other Vees I've seen the same done but with an insert which has to go in through the open tube which allows the toe to be changed easily. I ended up modifying the rear so that I could keep the rod ends on axis with the tube so those open extra bits are gone now. It has very little effect on the unsprung weight since it's so close to the pivot. If it were on the outer end it would have a larger effect.
Makes sense, why i;ve seen other cars with them, then. Thanks for the reply! Good luck with the season Simon! Love what you're doing, and thank you so much for the brilliant content!
I'm just curious to know if anyone has turned their H-beam upside down and made a pullrod version of this. I figure even if the antiroll bar is heavier than the leaf springs, the difference could well be offset by having the dampers and bellcranks much lower in the chassis. I suppose it's a moot point if the orientation of the H-beam is regulated, though considering how many modifications you Are allowed to make, that seems unlikely?
Funny you say that, this was one of my earliest ideas for this car, as a way to lower the CofG. The reason the front of my car was raised was originally to accommodate the shocks and steering rack - though ultimately I retained it for the benefit of the undertray, even after going conventional with the H-beam. The rules are ambiguous enough that think it would be legal (though maybe only temporarily). There are a couple of problems with it, such as the force on the taper that retains the ball joints would be reversed so more load would be placed on the bolts. But it would have been something innovative I think.
Must've forgotten to mention it! The bellcrank support has a recess, allowing it to be pressed onto the chassis mount. A bolt then passes through the whole assembly, holding it together.
The bellcrank rotates on a needle bearing. There is a hardened inner race which slips over the bolt - this is what the needle bearing rotates on. So the bolt and inner race are static with respect to the chassis, the needle bearing is pushed into the bellcrank center so rotates with it. A set of hardened races and axial thrust needle bearings goes on either side of the bellcrank to locate it. Hope that helps.
I didn't end up doing a video on it because it is so simple that there isn't really anything to show, just an off the shelf rack with a shaft and a wheel on the end of it.
ok, thanks for info, I search something about steering system because im going to build that in SolarCar for WorldSolar Race and it going to be hard :P
Instead of cutting a tube in half and welding a flat between them for the h beam brace, why not take a larger tube and just flatten it out? Might take less work, unless that isnt allowed
Took me 18 months of solid work to build this car and that was with a complete design. Could be done in a lot less than that by outsourcing parts or using tools like CNCs.
Amazing, this is the stuff that i dream about... Are you a engineer? if so... what kind? What do you recommend to start designing? i have a little knowledge about AutoCad, but i have heard that Solid Works is better, what do you use? Awesome job, lot of work making the car and the videos
![เปิด อาณาจักร หมื่นล้าน "สาระตั้ม" l [Nickynachat]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/3XE0nPF4YkQ/mqdefault.jpg)
this HTBARC series is just so good
that's a very intrinsic piece of talent and perseverance you've got in you. so cool.
Gotta love Solidworks!
The one thing that always bothered me with fabricating some specific mechanical part from scratch is that in the event that an acute necessity to swap it ASAP arises, you won't be able to just swap it and go, unless you make spares. It is nonetheless impressive and never fails to amaze me.
Mark Lee always make 3.....first is concept test, third is first spare!
It is amazing that you get to share so much about the design and building process. Do you do all of this on your own or do you have a team?
Almost all on my own. Some help from people within the class and family.
@@thomsenmotorsport7201 you're so talented bro, i wish i was you
Nice Vid!!!
how tf do you do this alone this is insane
Nice chips!
How did you design the bellcrank? Im curious how you came up with the lengths and moments of action.
can u explain suspension design in more detail, all the forces acting, load variations, spring stiffness calculations etc, references?
Can you please tell me the parameters of designing the bellcrank?
How do you define the length
I saw the VW suspension in your part 1 and thought it was a simple mockup. Extremely surprised that they would mandate such an outdated geometry on a car like these.
Cool videos nonetheless
the point is that it's a beetle-based series
Not sure of how popular the beetle was over there. If there were a bunch sitting in scrap yards, why not? Google "dogeban". 80s dodge van series in japan.
Excellent work! What kind of lathe are you using? As someone who wants to get into this kind of work as a hobby I'm wondering what kind of machine you're using so I can budget prices. Thanks again for the videos!
Do you own all of these machines?!?! If or if not is there a way you could build something like this without all of these machines??? Love your videos man!
Thanks. Between myself and my father yes we own all the machines you see. I think that the welder, lathe and generic tools (drill, wrenches, sockets etc) are the bare minimum you could get away with. I know someone who built a buggy without a lathe but for me it was necessary to have one to build these suspension parts.
No sealing for bellcrank bearings?
Hi, I am designing suspension in a formula racing team. At 6:31 in the video, Can you please tell what mechanism have you used to locate the suspension points? I can see two conical things but I am not able to understand how it works. Thanks!
The rod end threads into the conical piece. The conical piece was simply a steel part I made that fit into and was welded to the tube to provide a thread for the rod end to thread into. Adjustment is done by turning the rod end in or out as required. This setup isn't perfect and I'm planning to build another design, similar but with the rod end on the same axis as the main leading arm tube.
What is the purpose of the "extra bit" of open tubing on your leading arms? I see this on a few racing cars, and my only guess is that it's done for tech inspection or I believe what's called "scrutineering" over there, so that they can check for thicknesses. It does seem to ass to the unsprung weight tho doesn't it?
The bit on the inside was that way simply to change the direction of the rod end on the leading arms. On other Vees I've seen the same done but with an insert which has to go in through the open tube which allows the toe to be changed easily. I ended up modifying the rear so that I could keep the rod ends on axis with the tube so those open extra bits are gone now.
It has very little effect on the unsprung weight since it's so close to the pivot. If it were on the outer end it would have a larger effect.
Makes sense, why i;ve seen other cars with them, then. Thanks for the reply! Good luck with the season Simon! Love what you're doing, and thank you so much for the brilliant content!
I'm just curious to know if anyone has turned their H-beam upside down and made a pullrod version of this. I figure even if the antiroll bar is heavier than the leaf springs, the difference could well be offset by having the dampers and bellcranks much lower in the chassis. I suppose it's a moot point if the orientation of the H-beam is regulated, though considering how many modifications you Are allowed to make, that seems unlikely?
Funny you say that, this was one of my earliest ideas for this car, as a way to lower the CofG. The reason the front of my car was raised was originally to accommodate the shocks and steering rack - though ultimately I retained it for the benefit of the undertray, even after going conventional with the H-beam. The rules are ambiguous enough that think it would be legal (though maybe only temporarily). There are a couple of problems with it, such as the force on the taper that retains the ball joints would be reversed so more load would be placed on the bolts. But it would have been something innovative I think.
Neat! I see what you mean about the ball joint though. I hadn't considered that.
How is the bell-crank connected to the chassis ? thanks .
Must've forgotten to mention it! The bellcrank support has a recess, allowing it to be pressed onto the chassis mount. A bolt then passes through the whole assembly, holding it together.
Does that mean the inner surface of the bellcrank is fixed with the chassis by the bolt and the bellcrank only moves with and about the bearing ?
The bellcrank rotates on a needle bearing. There is a hardened inner race which slips over the bolt - this is what the needle bearing rotates on. So the bolt and inner race are static with respect to the chassis, the needle bearing is pushed into the bellcrank center so rotates with it. A set of hardened races and axial thrust needle bearings goes on either side of the bellcrank to locate it. Hope that helps.
how you plan your steering system?
I didn't end up doing a video on it because it is so simple that there isn't really anything to show, just an off the shelf rack with a shaft and a wheel on the end of it.
ok, thanks for info, I search something about steering system because im going to build that in SolarCar for WorldSolar Race and it going to be hard :P
what's the program you used to design???
Solid Works
Instead of cutting a tube in half and welding a flat between them for the h beam brace, why not take a larger tube and just flatten it out? Might take less work, unless that isnt allowed
Yeah that would probably be an option as well, I think I thought this was easier to get the precise shape.
How many time will requires for a amateur for making a car
Took me 18 months of solid work to build this car and that was with a complete design. Could be done in a lot less than that by outsourcing parts or using tools like CNCs.
Thanks
Hi, this is what do you for a living? or just a hobby?
+Mauro Rubio just a hobby.
Amazing, this is the stuff that i dream about... Are you a engineer? if so... what kind? What do you recommend to start designing? i have a little knowledge about AutoCad, but i have heard that Solid Works is better, what do you use?
Awesome job, lot of work making the car and the videos
He uses Solid Works for certain. Not sure if any additional programs are used however.
great series and awesome work on the suspension. I too am designing a suspension and have doubts could i contact you via e-mail or facebook ??
Thanks. Feel free to shoot me an email using the address on my youtube about page.
Sometimes its hard for a non native speaker to understand your voice over the musik. Maybe make it a little bit quiter in the future?
You can turn on the subtitles, although they are auto-generated and not 100% accurate