Thanks for another great video, it was very informative! I replaced the brake cable on my 11.5hp 30" yesterday, per your instructions here, and now I have brakes again! I couldn't remember the adjustments, so I came back and watched again! I'll check my adjustments tomorrow to see how far off they are!! Can't be too far, Lol they work!! Thanks again!!
You're the man, Jim! My mower wouldn't go into gear or drive at all. I replaced my clutch wheel assembly, axle boots, brake lever, re-greased everything. Fired it up and it works better than we I got it second hand. 100 bucks on parts and I'm rolling again. All because of you. You're a great instructor. THANK YOU!
@@jerberkrell815 does your machine have the original engine on it? Send me some pictures of your machine and maybe I can figure something out, I need to know if it has one or two pedal ? Send them pictures to jimsfixitshop@gmail.Com Thanks. Jim
If you ever get tired of your present occupation , you would make a perfect instructor at a community college..i enjoy all of your video's.,,, Thank you......
I found on the Lugnuts on the snappers being a retired master mechanic if you take go ahead and pull her off or drain the fluids in the oil out of the unit, turn it on its side where you can get to the backside of the Lugnuts and spray them with a pen And then a little bit wait a few hours again for a little bit. Do that several times then maybe the next morning flip it back over the other way and hammer on the other side with a big punch put your wrench on it and zip right off every time I’ve had no problem doing that, but you need to get that penetrate on both sides of that bolt/lug nut
Hi Jim that looks just like my little snapper and the only problem I have is with safety items. When I put it in park,it's a crap shoot on whether or not it will continue to run or die. This is when I get off the mower to move a water hose etc. Out of the way. I moved 1 then 2 ferrels up on the pedal and it died immediately. It's a finicky little booger as I don't know what or which direction to adjust the "clutch cable" I would assume, but I could be wrong. Great little mower but I to am finicky and want things to work as they should. Kind of like the cassette decks I work on. They have to be calibrated perfectly even though the manufacturer says +-5% is allowable. Thanks Jim and keep up the good work as some of us appreciate the older things in life that can and will be repaired.
Jim- My Snapper is just like yours. It's a 2003. My yoke is locking up. The bushings are good if I don't tighten the mounting bolts real tight it moves okay but when I tighten them down the disc doesn't contact the crankshaft pulley because it doesn't move up to the crankshaft pulley & make contact. My distance is adjusted okay with the gauge i made from the paint stick. Thanks Bill Davis Columbus, Ohio
William Davis Maybe you have the wrong plastic bushings you should be able to put the bushings in and lock the bolts down tight and the yoke will still pivot on those plastic bushings. Jim
@@jimjackson9381 Even though I have adjusted the clutch spring to the last hole the drive disc doesn't contact the wheel. I have adjusted the clutch but the tractor won't move in any gear. The chains are all good. Puzzled? Should I move the drive disc closer to brake wheel? Bill Davis Columbus, Ohio.
William Davis Did you get the issue figured out with your yoke if that’s not working properly your Machine is not going to drive properly, send me some pictures to my email so I can see what your drivetrain looks like. Jim
@@jimjackson9381 My camera is not working. I moved the drive disc down & now it will move in all gears. The problem I have now is that it's grinds in 1st. & 2nd. gears & really bad in 3rd.,4th. & 5th. gears. It has the original bearings or bushings. There was quit a bit of slack in one of the chains. All of the adjustments are right. I'm thinking the drive disc still has to move down closer to make better contact with the clutch disc? Thanks for help. Bill Davis Columbus, Ohio.
I can send you a picture of how it goes together if you send me an email I can’t send a picture through this section my email address is jimsfixitshop@gmail.Com Thanks. Jim
Hey Jim, I talked to you a couple times about my Snapper. I've FINALLY got all the parts to start putting it back together just in time for spring..lol. I think I found out from you why the mower wouldn't move. The left side hub bolt was missing. You said it would just keep turning and not move. I guess it was running like that for a couple years and finally unsiezed itself and stopped moving. I figured I got it All apart might as well change both chains both gaskets all the plugs and the belt & blade. I want to Thank you for you helping me thru this process. I will let you know if that was for sure the problem. P.S. both chain case & Diff case were gummed up with that hard 00 snapper grease...I've been watching the vids.
Vinnie C Hi Vinnie If you need any help putting that thing back together you let me know and I can say for sure that missing bolt was the issue why your machine wouldn’t move. talk to you soon Jim.
Hello Jim - this video was very helpful for me! I inherited my dad's rear engine Snapper and having some issues with the brakes - I believe I will now be able to fix it! In this video - you mentioned "Tom's Manual". Can you tell me, please, how I can get one? Thanks!
timreser If you call Briggs & Stratton. in Milwaukee Wisconsin with your model number they should be able to get you or send you a PDF file that you can print out. Jim
Hi Jim, I purchased an older Snapper RER that appears to be repowered with a Honda 13hp OHV, I need to get a clutch cable but can’t seem to find what model has ferrals on one end and a loop on the other. I can send a picture to help identify it. Thanks again for posting all these videos I have learned a lot about the Snapper and you sure do drink a lot of Pepsi.
Charles Piwowarski Hi Charles Send a picture to my email which is jimsfixitshop@gmail.com And I’ll take a look at it. And I just have to have my Pepsi. Jim
Hey Jim I've got a walk behind cub cadet purchased a the Orange store that should give age? It needed a new drive cable and I finally got around to order part and replaced it added new gas. Fired right up. This model regardless if warm starts with choke on. Well when I shut off the choke it revs up to maximum. I just watched a snapper video about the governor butterfly so I'll check that & if not missing send you another message. Hope your well. TU from N.W. Ken
If you have a Ace Hardware or a True Value Hardware. in your area I would go talk to the mechanic and see what he thinks it could be I have no idea on that one. Jim
@@jimjackson9381 TU Jim. Anxious, with rain In our forecast. I decided to check out the govenor & found my maintenance needs improvement. Butterfly's intact. So I cleaned up all moving parts & mowed the lawn. Followed with ordering a new blade. TU again for the channel & responding Sir.
Dang! I see now you pull them through the pedal… ugh… ok but I still need the cable because I was trying to cut one off with big wire cutters and I cut the cable…
Once again, thanks for another video Jim. One question and a request. I have a rear tire that has a slow leak, but it leaks enough that I have to bring it back up to 12# ea week when I mow. Do these tires have tubes or tubeless? On the parts manual I found it doesn't say.(~1988 model). The request....when you hang the deck could you demonstrate or discuss measuring and setting the proper fore and aft angles, and the best adjustments for lateral leveling for best mowing results also. TIA Mike
210 Doc Hi Mike it's jim Most all riders have tubeless tires on them normally when I buy a new machine the first thing I do is put tubes in all the tires. Then I don't have to worry about them going flat all the time because of rusty rims. Thanks for your questions, talk to you soon Jim
Hi Jim, my name is Jim. I have a snapper SR1028 with a 10 hp. I’m in the process of replacing the engine after 23 years. Unfortunately, it dropped a valve seat. The head was pretty heavily damaged, and the valve seat was a bit oval, and even the valve spring appears to be broken. I’m using the opportunity to go through and adjust things like the clutch, but mine is different. I have no cable directly on my pedal like yours. Do you have a video for the older units? I still have the black oval steering wheel but I have the covered center with SR 1028. My brake pedal is very low and I’m not sure about the adjustment on the clutch. My new engine is a 21R807-0072-G1. That appears to be the number of the replacement engine that will fit my mower and it’s 11.5 hp, not 10hp. The engine is not going to show up for a couple of weeks. While I’m waiting, I want to make sure everything’s lubricated and adjusted properly before I install the new engine.. Just want to utilize the time while waiting on the engine. Any assistance or suggestions you have would be sincerely appreciated.. Thank you from New Jersey!
@@Justacogg I am not real familiar with the SR series machines but I have one that was just delivered to me from the other side of my state that I am probably gonna start on next week and I’ll go over some adjustments and lubrications at that time.
I'm trying to set the clutch/ brake on a rear wheel snapper. The pedal has a pulley on it... No one speaks about that version. My client/friend needs it fixed . Do I remove and relocate the pulley to get the slack to do the adjustments I need?
You need to send me some pictures of this thing I’ve never seen a pulley anywhere on a snapper rear engine rider send it to jimsfixitshop@gmail.com Thanks. Jim
Very instructional video Jim. I am having difficulty identifying the correct name or part number of the 'black plastic clamp' you mentioned at 1:07 of your video, which attaches to the clutch and brake cables. I bought a used mower that didnt come with it, and the brake is not working as a result.
Ibrahim Vandi I am still having trouble trying to get onto Parts tree website go on Parts Tree.Com with your model number and check the brake cable and the clutch cable I am not sure if you can buy that plastic block separately or if it comes with the brake cable sorry I can’t be any more help than that on this question. Jim
When you show the bracket that has the clutch and brake cable, which hole does the clutch cable go into ? This should help when replacing the clutch cable. Thanks Don
Hi Don it’s Jim. The little black plastic block that goes around your clutch cable and brake cable most of them have the same size hole going through them so it doesn’t matter which way it goes on. As long as the block is on the clutch cable between the feral and the pedal so that it can pull the brake cable when you push the clutch pedal all the way down. Jim
My brake/clutch pedal doesn't always return the the full up position during mowing. Brand new mower. I have checked the clutch and brake adjustment and they are where they're supposed to be. What can I do to insure the return of the pedal to the full up position?
If I stand it up to store it for the winter or a long period of time yes I drain the oil and gas, otherwise the oil will leak out around the dipstick tube. Jim
Good morning Jim, question please, clutch/brake cable snapped at the pedal, about 1 inch from the end of stop clamp, I put on new cable stop using a clamp at the end, but now mower won't start for some reason? it is a single pedal snapper with 11 horse honda engine model 281123HVE. Bought new in 2005, do not have blade engaged and have the shifter in neutral, any ideas you have would be appreciated please, Thank you, Ed Gennrich
ed genn Hey Ed it’s Jim Stand your machine up and have someone push the pedal in and check and make sure that your yoke is depressing the switch otherwise it won’t start. Thanks Jim
Hi Jim. Great videos. I have a rear engine 12.5 Snapper. Problem is that the engine dies when clutch/break is released. I replaced clutch and seat safety switches with new ones. Do I change out the module? Everything seems to be running/ starting very well on mower, engine, blades, etc. All wires are looking in good shape too. PLEASE HELP.
Coach Johnson Hey Coach it’s Jim It sounds like the switch on your yoke is bad if your engine is dying as soon as you let out your clutch your yoke switch is located on the lower left-hand corner of your rear case when you stand up your machine let me know if you can’t find it. Jim
@@jimjackson9381 Thank you Jim. I put in a new clutch/yoke switch and now when clutch is released the engine putters and has no power. I recently put on a NEW carburator. Could I have done something wrong during that process? What can I check regarding that issue? Bad idler pulley?interlock switch? blade clutch failure? Many that to you and your videos, Jim.
Coach Johnson When you start the engine sitting in neutral or park whatever your machine has, when it’s sitting running with the clutch pushed in how does it run for save two or three minutes then releasing the clutch still in neutral how does it run if it starts missing or spitting in sputtering as soon as you start it I would say it’s probably a carburetor issue let me know. Jim
Matt Reed Hey Matt it’s Jim If you haven’t already I want you to watch video number 70 and tighten your yoke spring and inspect your rubber clutch disk and make sure it’s in good shape adjusting your spring should take care of your issue. Jim
I adjusted the clutch the way you show but when you release the clamp holding the clutch brake pedal the pedal moves higher and the yoke is no longer level. Is that the way it is supposed to be?
@@bradleymichaels1820 OK I looked on Parts Tree.Com. and they’re calling it a Clutch/brake cable And you also have a brake cable the number they’re recommending is 7022449YP Let me know how it turns out. Jim
I don’t know what you could have done to the clutch by running over something shorten up the cable by using the pharaohs and putting them through the backside of the pedal.
@@jimjackson9381where would you start with a slow engaging clutch and the shifter is really tight and does not want to go into reverse ?thanks so much for your great videos 28 inch high vac deck it’s really tight watch you video on checking the bracket when shifting I don’t feel any notches I have a spare machine exactly like it thinking of switch the motor onto it
@waynekelley2029 have you stood the machine up and checked to see if anything looks like it was damaged and if it’s shifting hard, you need to clean and grease the hexagon tube underneath your boots I would start there and then if it’s still shifting quite hard, unhook the linkage from the backside of the shift handle you’ll need to stand the machine up to do it and try just shifting the shift handle a lot of times those rust up and need to be disassembled and clean let me know what you find out.
@@jimjackson9381 thanks for getting back I will work on it this week I Will lube it and check the handle also cleaning the card I will let you know how it goes thanks so much for the help
@@jimjackson9381 Wayne Kelley wanted to say thanks your advice was spot on I greased the axle and now I need to replace the clutch wheel rubber is worn I will let you know how that goes the good thing is I have an identical snapper for parts
Mary SanMiguel Send me a picture of your chain case with the brakes in view so I can see what styles you have and you must have a double pedal machine you can send them to my email which is jimsfixitshop@gmail.com Thanks Jim
Dear Jim A. We bought a used re210 7800921-00 (turtle), it worked fine at first. You know that we have to hold down the clutch/brake to electric start it. It got to the point of practically standing on the pedal to get it to start. Then I figured out to pump the pedal then hold it down with both feet to get it to start. A few times it took only 1-2 keyturns to start. In the mean time the steering plate teeth wore down. Replaced it. Trying to start it again. 2 feet on the pedal again! I'm over 65 & that is wearing me out. Is there an adjustment or a by-pass or elimination fix for this?
@@danielborth7753 that’s just a factory setting. I wouldn’t worry about it if the brake works it’s OK if it doesn’t then you need to tighten it up a little bit.
After changing the engine on my 2003 Snapper I greased it and it runs great. My problem is that 1st gear is great but 2nd. & 3rd. gear grind when I put it in those gears. It will shift into those two gear but it doesn't sound like it is going all the way into 2nd or 3rd. gears. The clutch has a lot of slack in it. Could it be the align problem you talked about? Thank Bill Davis
@@jimjackson9381 Thanks for your help Jim. Someone put the wrong sized disc on this tractor. The rubber is not loose. I did tighten the spring up. Works great now.
Hi, Jim. I adjusted the brake cable like you described and got the 3/4” measurement. However, when I’m on the mower (engine running) with the parking brake engaged and the mower in neutral, the machine goes off when I get off the seat. It use to stay on when I got off under those conditions. If I clamp the pedal all the way down, it continues to run when I get off. Any ideas?
It’s the sensor under the seat. It’s designed to shut off when you get off the seat. No idea why it didn’t do that before or why it just started working properly
I got a 28 inch rider and it cranks up just fine but when I get to release the break it putters When I start moving it but when I-but when I try to put it in to engage the blades while running it runs fine but when I stop the Disengage Blades It goes back to stuttering And when I put it in park with the break it runs fine can you tell me what the problem is
It sounds like your carburetor needs to be cleaned it’s not getting enough fuel when it’s doing anything other than idling if you have adjustable jets on your carburetor you can try adjusting them but most of the newer carburetors there are no guts to adjust, you may have to take the carburetor off and I use an ultrasonic vibrating cleaner that does a marvelous job on cleaning carburetors. Jim
I have a rer 2001 Snapper 30”. I accidentally cut it wear it goes into the pedal itself. I was trying to remove one of the little ferrules because I had slid into spacers to adjust my belt. Anyway, what cable do I need starting at the clutch pedal? It worked fine until I cut about 4 strands at the pedal. And is there an easy way to remove those ferrules?
The only way to move the ferrules on one side of the pedal or the other is to slide them down the cable you can try re-wrapping the broken strands around the cable then wrap the broken ends with a piece of tape to help, otherwise you may have to replace the cable. Jim
@@Garylee62 well it depends if you have one or two pedals on your machine if you have one pedal then you need a new clutch Cable if you go on to Parts Tree.Com with your model number you can find a part you need it should be under front end assembly. Jim
Jim not sure you'll see this. but I liked and enjoyed the video. I need the snap ring you mentioned at 8.02. Would ACE hardware maybe have them? Any chance you know what size to ask for? Thanks in advance
Jim, thanks so much for the reply. Upon further inspection I find I need the entire plastic piece that houses the spring and cotter as it has broken. Any idea what this piece is called? I plan to search the web. But, would help if I knew the correct name for it. If you can help? Thanks in advance.
@@jimjackson9381 Jim I hate to keep bugging you, but I've spent hours searching the web for a clutch cable. My mower is a 301223 BVE. It has the one pedal. So the clutch cable is the long cable and the brake cable, a short cable connects to it. I can find plenty of the long cables but not the short cable that I need. I'm sure you're good at parts look up. If you could drop me a link to the cable I need, it would be so grateful.
@@jimjackson9381 the model is Snapper RE130 (7800932-00) - Snapper 33" Rear-Engine Rider, 12.5HP, RE Series... I've tried looking on Parts Tree but cant seem to find it. Thanks for your help!!!
EdJuan Burriss Hi it’s Jim I found your parts on Parts Tree.Com. the plastic clamp part number is 7034174YP it is item number 1300 you can look for the number and find it on the schematic it’s $2.46 now parts trees sells things in Single pieces you can call them and check but normally you would have to order two of those to get both half’s you can call them and ask them if it comes both pieces or just one, the bolt that you will need is item number 1310 it’s $2.52 the nut you’ll need is item number 1320 and it’s $2.18, I am not sure if you could use standard hardware or not I know the nut is a self locking nut the bolt is probably a standard bolt but I’m not sure. If you send me your email I can send you a picture of the schematic and show you where the parts are otherwise call them their phone number is at the top of their homepage and They will be more than happy to help you just tell them Jim‘s fix-it shop sent you. Thanks Jim
What about the rear hitch plate (7301297YP) currently shows unavailable.... I recently had a catastrophic accident which bent the rear plate, pressing the yoke against the drive wheel... cant find this rear hitch plate anywhere.. I guess I'm just up the creek... or maybe I can just go stone age and try to hammer it back in place... any suggestions??? Thanks for your help
EdJuan Burriss Hi it’s Jim I think you’re going to have to go Stone Age and beat it back into shape the rear plate on your rear case is welded there’s no way to replace that send me a picture if you can and I’ll see if I can figure out what to do with it. thanks Jim
Vinnie C Hi it’s Jim. I am not sure what three-quarter inch item you’re talking about can you send me a picture or give me a little more details thanks. Jim
@@jimjackson9381 yeah I'm talking about that scale ruler you used and stuck it in the brake cable spring to measure how much to tighten up the cable..is it 3/4" for all snappers.
Hi Jim I've been checking out you videos and I was wondering if you knew anything about how to test the coil on my snapper it has a tecumesh engine model v6070361j
Hey Jim I'm looking at your videos my Snapper was running real good and then the belt broke I try to put a new belt on there it wouldn't start so I put a new ignition switch the battery checks out okay but I still can't get it to start what am I doing wrong and I wish you was close to me so you could work on my snapper and I am in Georgia
Carolyn Shook Hi it’s Jim Sounds like you have a safety switch as giving you issues there’s one on the mower deck that you could have bumped, and you may have one in your main case where the yolk is check them out and let me know. Thanks Jim
Well that is a touchy subject, if you bring your snapper into a dealership to get it worked on and your safety system is not working properly they will not work on your machine unless you let them fix that first. And as far as me telling my viewers how to unhook it I have thousands of people watching my videos all over the world and if somebody unhook it and gets hurt I can be held responsible I am not worried as far as a viewer suing me but the first thing your insurance company is going to Ask you is to unhook that for you or who told you how to unhook it, Insurance companies today are always looking for a way to get their money back that they paid out in a claim. Jim
Hey Jim. I finally got my Snapper series13 machine all back together. I don't have a scale small enough to measure the brake spring 3/4" compressed. Do you have any suggestions how I could measure it?? Puzzled in Wisconsin..lol
Are you looking for a copy of the operators manual, I could take it to the print shop and have them make me a copy of it but I’m not sure what they would charge you can go to Briggs & Stratton. in Milwaukee Wisconsin and they will send you a PDF file of the books that you need if you have your model number. Jim
Thanks Jim. I was looking for the service manual. I found a PDF of an old one on the Snapper website, but it's for series 4, 5, & 6 with the bicycle handlebars and doesn't have the cable adjustment in it since those still used the brake band and drum. I couldn't find one on their site for the current units.
I'm ok for now, I just wanted to see if I could find the manual if it is available for future reference. I'll check with my dealer. I've only had my unit for a little over a month which I bought brand new, so no issues yet other than it squeaking where the frame pivots on the center tube. I sprayed some WD40 there while having it standing up which seems to have fixed it for now. I didn't see any grease fittings there. Does this sound normal?
@@JDski Well the squeaking doesn’t know grease fitting does, WD-40 evaporates it doesn’t last long you’d be better off to try to drip some standard oil in a crack to see if that helps. Jim
Matt Hill Hi Matt it's Jim That Machine that I rebuilt is my bosses 2012 it's the last good one they built before they re-engineered them thanks for watching. Jim
Another fine, informative video. Thank you Jim !!!!!
Another great video Jim, my snapper will not stop. Before changing parts, I will check these settings. Thanks
Well if you need any help let me know. Jim
Thanks for another great video, it was very informative! I replaced the brake cable on my 11.5hp 30" yesterday, per your instructions here, and now I have brakes again! I couldn't remember the adjustments, so I came back and watched again! I'll check my adjustments tomorrow to see how far off they are!! Can't be too far, Lol they work!! Thanks again!!
You're the man, Jim! My mower wouldn't go into gear or drive at all. I replaced my clutch wheel assembly, axle boots, brake lever, re-greased everything. Fired it up and it works better than we I got it second hand. 100 bucks on parts and I'm rolling again. All because of you. You're a great instructor. THANK YOU!
Clint Bollinger
Well thanks for watching and hopefully subscribing. Jim
@@jimjackson9381 where can I buy a new brake cable?
@@jerberkrell815 I would take your model number and go to Parts Tree.Com in Texas and they will send you one. Jim
@@jimjackson9381 I'm not shure what the number is, it's an 80s snapper
@@jerberkrell815 does your machine have the original engine on it?
Send me some pictures of your machine and maybe I can figure something out, I need to know if it has one or two pedal ?
Send them pictures to
jimsfixitshop@gmail.Com
Thanks. Jim
If you ever get tired of your present occupation , you would make a perfect instructor at a community college..i enjoy all of your video's.,,,
Thank you......
Your video helped me adjust the clutch on my Snapper 2008.
Well I am glad I could help you and you can help me by subscribing it’s free. Jim
Thanks for posting, got an old snapper off Craigslist for $300 and this thing isn't bad at all, just needed some maintenance.
foley2k2
Great let me know if you need anything. Jim
I found on the Lugnuts on the snappers being a retired master mechanic if you take go ahead and pull her off or drain the fluids in the oil out of the unit, turn it on its side where you can get to the backside of the Lugnuts and spray them with a pen And then a little bit wait a few hours again for a little bit. Do that several times then maybe the next morning flip it back over the other way and hammer on the other side with a big punch put your wrench on it and zip right off every time I’ve had no problem doing that, but you need to get that penetrate on both sides of that bolt/lug nut
Hi Jim that looks just like my little snapper and the only problem I have is with safety items. When I put it in park,it's a crap shoot on whether or not it will continue to run or die. This is when I get off the mower to move a water hose etc. Out of the way. I moved 1 then 2 ferrels up on the pedal and it died immediately. It's a finicky little booger as I don't know what or which direction to adjust the "clutch cable" I would assume, but I could be wrong. Great little mower but I to am finicky and want things to work as they should. Kind of like the cassette decks I work on. They have to be calibrated perfectly even though the manufacturer says +-5% is allowable.
Thanks Jim and keep up the good work as some of us appreciate the older things in life that can and will be repaired.
Very helpful, thank you.
Awesome teacher Jim thank you
Well thanks for being a viewer and hopefully a subscriber. Jim
Jim- My Snapper is just like yours. It's a 2003. My yoke is locking up. The bushings are good if I don't tighten the mounting bolts real tight it moves okay but when I tighten them down the disc doesn't contact the crankshaft pulley because it doesn't move up to the crankshaft pulley & make contact. My distance is adjusted okay with the gauge i made from the paint stick. Thanks Bill Davis Columbus, Ohio
William Davis
Maybe you have the wrong plastic bushings you should be able to put the bushings in and lock the bolts down tight and the yoke will still pivot on those plastic bushings. Jim
@@jimjackson9381 Even though I have adjusted the clutch spring to the last hole the drive disc doesn't contact the wheel. I have adjusted the clutch but the tractor won't move in any gear. The chains are all good. Puzzled? Should I move the drive disc closer to brake wheel? Bill Davis Columbus, Ohio.
William Davis
Did you get the issue figured out with your yoke if that’s not working properly your Machine is not going to drive properly, send me some pictures to my email so I can see what your drivetrain looks like. Jim
@@jimjackson9381 My camera is not working. I moved the drive disc down & now it will move in all gears. The problem I have now is that it's grinds in 1st. & 2nd. gears & really bad in 3rd.,4th. & 5th. gears. It has the original bearings or bushings. There was quit a bit of slack in one of the chains. All of the adjustments are right. I'm thinking the drive disc still has to move down closer to make better contact with the clutch disc? Thanks for help. Bill Davis Columbus, Ohio.
William Davis
Just make sure the edge of the chain case is not hitting your drive disk, that will make a grinding noise. Jim
Hey Jim thanks a bunch your the man. Might email u a few questions thanks again man.
Excellent video...Thanks
You’re welcome thanks for watching. Jim
hope your subscriber it’s free
Excellent info...
Great Job very informative
Thanks for watching. Jim
Very helpful Jim but i need to see how the black plastic cable clamp hooks to clutch and brake cable ?
I can send you a picture of how it goes together if you send me an email I can’t send a picture through this section my email address is
jimsfixitshop@gmail.Com
Thanks. Jim
Hey Jim,
I talked to you a couple times about my Snapper. I've FINALLY got all the parts to start putting it back together just in time for spring..lol. I think I found out from you why the mower wouldn't move. The left side hub bolt was missing. You said it would just keep turning and not move. I guess it was running like that for a couple years and finally unsiezed itself and stopped moving. I figured I got it All apart might as well change both chains both gaskets all the plugs and the belt & blade. I want to Thank you for you helping me thru this process. I will let you know if that was for sure the problem.
P.S. both chain case & Diff case were gummed up with that hard 00 snapper grease...I've been watching the vids.
Vinnie C
Hi Vinnie
If you need any help putting that thing back together you let me know and I can say for sure that missing bolt was the issue why your machine wouldn’t move. talk to you soon Jim.
Bought a new belt for my snapper I still I win an inch smaller still have too much play in the belt cannot pull frame apart need suggestions
Hello Jim - this video was very helpful for me! I inherited my dad's rear engine Snapper and having some issues with the brakes - I believe I will now be able to fix it! In this video - you mentioned "Tom's Manual". Can you tell me, please, how I can get one? Thanks!
timreser
If you call Briggs & Stratton. in Milwaukee Wisconsin with your model number they should be able to get you or send you a PDF file that you can print out. Jim
Hi Jim, I purchased an older Snapper RER that appears to be repowered with a Honda 13hp OHV, I need to get a clutch cable but can’t seem to find what model has ferrals on one end and a loop on the other. I can send a picture to help identify it. Thanks again for posting all these videos I have learned a lot about the Snapper and you sure do drink a lot of Pepsi.
Charles Piwowarski
Hi Charles
Send a picture to my email which is
jimsfixitshop@gmail.com
And I’ll take a look at it. And I just have to have my Pepsi. Jim
Hey Jim I've got a walk behind cub cadet purchased a the Orange store that should give age? It needed a new drive cable and I finally got around to order part and replaced it added new gas. Fired right up. This model regardless if warm starts with choke on. Well when I shut off the choke it revs up to maximum. I just watched a snapper video about the governor butterfly so I'll check that & if not missing send you another message. Hope your well.
TU from N.W. Ken
If you have a Ace Hardware or a True Value Hardware. in your area I would go talk to the mechanic and see what he thinks it could be I have no idea on that one. Jim
@@jimjackson9381 TU Jim.
Anxious, with rain In our forecast.
I decided to check out the govenor & found my maintenance needs improvement. Butterfly's intact. So I cleaned up all moving parts & mowed the lawn. Followed with ordering a new blade. TU again for the channel & responding Sir.
Dang! I see now you pull them through the pedal… ugh… ok but I still need the cable because I was trying to cut one off with big wire cutters and I cut the cable…
where can I get the braces for the back so I can tip my mower up?
Once again, thanks for another video Jim. One question and a request. I have a rear tire that has a slow leak, but it leaks enough that I have to bring it back up to 12# ea week when I mow. Do these tires have tubes or tubeless? On the parts manual I found it doesn't say.(~1988 model). The request....when you hang the deck could you demonstrate or discuss measuring and setting the proper fore and aft angles, and the best adjustments for lateral leveling for best mowing results also. TIA Mike
210 Doc
Hi Mike it's jim
Most all riders have tubeless tires on them normally when I buy a new machine the first thing I do is put tubes in all the tires. Then I don't have to worry about them going flat all the time because of rusty rims. Thanks for your questions, talk to you soon Jim
210 Doc
Got you covered Mike, in the next video I cover putting on the mower deck and leveling it from front to back and side to side.thanks Jim
Hi Jim, my name is Jim. I have a snapper SR1028 with a 10 hp.
I’m in the process of replacing the engine after 23 years. Unfortunately, it dropped a valve seat.
The head was pretty heavily damaged, and the valve seat was a bit oval, and even the valve spring appears to be broken.
I’m using the opportunity to go through and adjust things like the clutch, but mine is different. I have no cable directly on my pedal like yours.
Do you have a video for the older units?
I still have the black oval steering wheel but I have the covered center with SR 1028. My brake pedal is very low and I’m not sure about the adjustment on the clutch.
My new engine is a 21R807-0072-G1. That appears to be the number of the replacement engine that will fit my mower and it’s 11.5 hp, not 10hp. The engine is not going to show up for a couple of weeks.
While I’m waiting, I want to make sure everything’s lubricated and adjusted properly before I install the new engine.. Just want to utilize the time while waiting on the engine.
Any assistance or suggestions you have would be sincerely appreciated..
Thank you from New Jersey!
@@Justacogg I am not real familiar with the SR series machines but I have one that was just delivered to me from the other side of my state that I am probably gonna start on next week and I’ll go over some adjustments and lubrications at that time.
I'm trying to set the clutch/ brake on a rear wheel snapper. The pedal has a pulley on it... No one speaks about that version. My client/friend needs it fixed . Do I remove and relocate the pulley to get the slack to do the adjustments I need?
You need to send me some pictures of this thing I’ve never seen a pulley anywhere on a snapper rear engine rider send it to
jimsfixitshop@gmail.com
Thanks. Jim
Very instructional video Jim. I am having difficulty identifying the correct name or part number of the 'black plastic clamp' you mentioned at 1:07 of your video, which attaches to the clutch and brake cables. I bought a used mower that didnt come with it, and the brake is not working as a result.
Ibrahim Vandi
I am still having trouble trying to get onto Parts tree website go on Parts Tree.Com with your model number and check the brake cable and the clutch cable I am not sure if you can buy that plastic block separately or if it comes with the brake cable sorry I can’t be any more help than that on this question. Jim
When you show the bracket that has the clutch and brake cable, which hole does the clutch cable go into ? This should help when replacing the clutch cable. Thanks Don
Hi Don it’s Jim. The little black plastic block that goes around your clutch cable and brake cable most of them have the same size hole going through them so it doesn’t matter which way it goes on. As long as the block is on the clutch cable between the feral and the pedal so that it can pull the brake cable when you push the clutch pedal all the way down. Jim
My brake/clutch pedal doesn't always return the the full up position during mowing. Brand new mower. I have checked the clutch and brake adjustment and they are where they're supposed to be. What can I do to insure the return of the pedal to the full up position?
It’s nothing that you really have to worry about there’s not much in the way of a spring that pulls the pedal back up. Jim
@@jimjackson9381 Thanks, love the videos!
@@geraldstraney6181 Well let me know if anything comes up that you need help with. Jim
When you stood the mower up vertically did you first drain the oil out from the engine?
If I stand it up to store it for the winter or a long period of time yes I drain the oil and gas, otherwise the oil will leak out around the dipstick tube. Jim
Can you do a video on changing a manual pull start to a electric battery start. Is there a kid? 11.5 hp. motor . THANKS
Does the clutch keep the mower from starting? I have slack in my cable and all its dolng is spinning over! fresh gas new filter new battery HELP TIA
Your clutch cable is hooked to your yoke if your clutch is not pulling your yoke up far enough to activate the switch your machine Will not start
Jim
Good morning Jim, question please, clutch/brake cable snapped at the pedal, about 1 inch from the end of stop clamp, I put on new cable stop using a clamp at the end, but now mower won't start for some reason? it is a single pedal snapper with 11 horse honda engine model 281123HVE. Bought new in 2005, do not have blade engaged and have the shifter in neutral, any ideas you have would be appreciated please,
Thank you,
Ed Gennrich
ed genn
Hey Ed it’s Jim
Stand your machine up and have someone push the pedal in and check and make sure that your yoke is depressing the switch otherwise it won’t start. Thanks Jim
Hi Jim. Great videos. I have a rear engine 12.5 Snapper.
Problem is that the engine dies when clutch/break is released. I replaced clutch and seat safety switches with new ones. Do I change out the module? Everything seems to be running/ starting very well on mower, engine, blades, etc. All wires are looking in good shape too. PLEASE HELP.
Coach Johnson
Hey Coach it’s Jim
It sounds like the switch on your yoke is bad if your engine is dying as soon as you let out your clutch your yoke switch is located on the lower left-hand corner of your rear case when you stand up your machine let me know if you can’t find it. Jim
@@jimjackson9381
Thank you Jim. I put in a new clutch/yoke switch and now when clutch is released the engine putters and has no power. I recently put on a NEW carburator. Could I have done something wrong during that process? What can I check regarding that issue? Bad idler pulley?interlock switch? blade clutch failure?
Many that to you and your videos, Jim.
Coach Johnson
When you start the engine sitting in neutral or park whatever your machine has, when it’s sitting running with the clutch pushed in how does it run for save two or three minutes then releasing the clutch still in neutral how does it run if it starts missing or spitting in sputtering as soon as you start it I would say it’s probably a carburetor issue let me know. Jim
Hi Jim. My 94 snapper riding along and it will just stop if I get off of it it starts to go again? Reverse is fine works normal.
Matt Reed
Hey Matt it’s Jim
If you haven’t already I want you to watch video number 70 and tighten your yoke spring and inspect your rubber clutch disk and make sure it’s in good shape adjusting your spring should take care of your issue. Jim
Hi Jim. Tom in Oklahoma.I want to leave the deck of (for parades and stuff) of my RER Snapper. how does it move without the belts.HELP
Poppy
The belt is only for the mower deck. Remove the deck and the belt and it will work just fine. Jim
I adjusted the clutch the way you show but when you release the clamp holding the clutch brake pedal the pedal moves higher and the yoke is no longer level. Is that the way it is supposed to be?
Can you send me a picture to my email
jimsfixitshop@gmail.com
Thanks Jim
Jim - What is the right clutch cable to buy for the series 23 snapper rear engine mower and do you have a video of how to change it?
To find the right clutch cable you need your model number. Jim
Thanks Jim it’s 281223BVE
Model: 85622
@@bradleymichaels1820 OK I looked on Parts Tree.Com. and they’re calling it a
Clutch/brake cable
And you also have a brake cable the number they’re recommending is 7022449YP
Let me know how it turns out. Jim
great video i have 1 it goes in reverse just fine but it barely moves forward dont know whats wrong
Watch video number 70 and check your yoke spring. Jim
Jim I ran over something with my snapper now the clutch only has about a qtr of an inch area to mash the peddle
I don’t know what you could have done to the clutch by running over something shorten up the cable by using the pharaohs and putting them through the backside of the pedal.
@@jimjackson9381where would you start with a slow engaging clutch and the shifter is really tight and does not want to go into reverse ?thanks so much for your great videos 28 inch high vac deck it’s really tight watch you video on checking the bracket when shifting I don’t feel any notches I have a spare machine exactly like it thinking of switch the motor onto it
@waynekelley2029 have you stood the machine up and checked to see if anything looks like it was damaged and if it’s shifting hard, you need to clean and grease the hexagon tube underneath your boots I would start there and then if it’s still shifting quite hard, unhook the linkage from the backside of the shift handle you’ll need to stand the machine up to do it and try just shifting the shift handle a lot of times those rust up and need to be disassembled and clean let me know what you find out.
@@jimjackson9381 thanks for getting back I will work on it this week I Will lube it and check the handle also cleaning the card I will let you know how it goes thanks so much for the help
@@jimjackson9381 Wayne Kelley wanted to say thanks your advice was spot on I greased the axle and now I need to replace the clutch wheel rubber is worn I will let you know how that goes the good thing is I have an identical snapper for parts
Can the Aux/brake be bypassed using only the clutch/brake on a 1985 snapper riding mower without causing a braking problem particularly uphill?
Mary SanMiguel
Send me a picture of your chain case with the brakes in view so I can see what styles you have and you must have a double pedal machine you can send them to my email which is
jimsfixitshop@gmail.com
Thanks Jim
Dear Jim A.
We bought a used re210 7800921-00 (turtle), it worked fine at first. You know that we have to hold down the clutch/brake to electric start it. It got to the point of practically standing on the pedal to get it to start. Then I figured out to pump the pedal then hold it down with both feet to get it to start. A few times it took only 1-2 keyturns to start. In the mean time the steering plate teeth wore down. Replaced it. Trying to start it again. 2 feet on the pedal again! I'm over 65 & that is wearing me out. Is there an adjustment or a by-pass or elimination fix for this?
John Verkler
You need to check into safety switch on the yolk underneath the main case. Jim
What does it mean if I'm at the maximum adjustment and all I can get is a quarter inch not 3/4 of an inch like you say
@@danielborth7753 that’s just a factory setting. I wouldn’t worry about it if the brake works it’s OK if it doesn’t then you need to tighten it up a little bit.
After changing the engine on my 2003 Snapper I greased it and it runs great. My problem is that 1st gear is great but 2nd. & 3rd. gear grind when I put it in those gears. It will shift into those two gear but it doesn't sound like it is going all the way into 2nd or 3rd. gears. The clutch has a lot of slack in it. Could it be the align problem you talked about? Thank Bill Davis
William Davis
Have you watched videos 70 yet I will try tightening your yoke spring and see if that helps and let me know. Jim
@@jimjackson9381 Thanks for your help Jim. Someone put the wrong sized disc on this tractor. The rubber is not loose. I did tighten the spring up. Works great now.
William Davis
Awesome glad to hear we fixed it, don’t forget to subscribe if You’re not already. Jim
Hi, Jim. I adjusted the brake cable like you described and got the 3/4” measurement. However, when I’m on the mower (engine running) with the parking brake engaged and the mower in neutral, the machine goes off when I get off the seat. It use to stay on when I got off under those conditions. If I clamp the pedal all the way down, it continues to run when I get off. Any ideas?
It’s the sensor under the seat. It’s designed to shut off when you get off the seat. No idea why it didn’t do that before or why it just started working properly
Well let’s see there’s a sensor under the seat or is there a sensor on your yolk inside the rear case. Jim
I got a 28 inch rider and it cranks up just fine but when I get to release the break it putters When I start moving it but when I-but when I try to put it in to engage the blades while running it runs fine but when I stop the Disengage Blades It goes back to stuttering And when I put it in park with the break it runs fine can you tell me what the problem is
It sounds like your carburetor needs to be cleaned it’s not getting enough fuel when it’s doing anything other than idling if you have adjustable jets on your carburetor you can try adjusting them but most of the newer carburetors there are no guts to adjust, you may have to take the carburetor off and I use an ultrasonic vibrating cleaner that does a marvelous job on cleaning carburetors. Jim
I have a rer 2001 Snapper 30”. I accidentally cut it wear it goes into the pedal itself. I was trying to remove one of the little ferrules because I had slid into spacers to adjust my belt. Anyway, what cable do I need starting at the clutch pedal? It worked fine until I cut about 4 strands at the pedal. And is there an easy way to remove those ferrules?
The only way to move the ferrules on one side of the pedal or the other is to slide them down the cable you can try re-wrapping the broken strands around the cable then wrap the broken ends with a piece of tape to help, otherwise you may have to replace the cable. Jim
@@jimjackson9381
What cable do I need?
@@Garylee62 well it depends if you have one or two pedals on your machine if you have one pedal then you need a new clutch Cable if you go on to Parts Tree.Com with your model number you can find a part you need it should be under front end assembly. Jim
@@jimjackson9381 Ok, thank you Jim
Jim not sure you'll see this. but I liked and enjoyed the video. I need the snap ring you mentioned at 8.02. Would ACE hardware maybe have them? Any chance you know what size to ask for? Thanks in advance
You should be able to get them from Ace Hardware or maybe an automotive store. It is a 3/8 outside snapping. Jim
Jim, thanks so much for the reply. Upon further inspection I find I need the entire plastic piece that houses the spring and cotter as it has broken. Any idea what this piece is called? I plan to search the web. But, would help if I knew the correct name for it. If you can help? Thanks in advance.
Unfortunately, as far as I know, they don’t sell that piece separately you have to buy a new break cable. Jim
@@jimjackson9381 Yes, make sense. Thanks again..
@@jimjackson9381 Jim I hate to keep bugging you, but I've spent hours searching the web for a clutch cable. My mower is a 301223 BVE. It has the one pedal. So the clutch cable is the long cable and the brake cable, a short cable connects to it. I can find plenty of the long cables but not the short cable that I need. I'm sure you're good at parts look up. If you could drop me a link to the cable I need, it would be so grateful.
Hey Jim I have a 2013 Rear Engine Snapper... any idea where I can find the BLACK PLASTIC CLAMP that connects both cables? Thanks
EdJuan Burriss Send me your model number and I’ll look on Parts Tree.Com to see if I can find one thanks Jim
@@jimjackson9381 the model is Snapper RE130 (7800932-00) - Snapper 33" Rear-Engine Rider, 12.5HP, RE Series... I've tried looking on Parts Tree but cant seem to find it. Thanks for your help!!!
EdJuan Burriss
Hi it’s Jim
I found your parts on Parts Tree.Com. the plastic clamp part number is 7034174YP it is item number 1300 you can look for the number and find it on the schematic it’s $2.46 now parts trees sells things in Single pieces you can call them and check but normally you would have to order two of those to get both half’s you can call them and ask them if it comes both pieces or just one, the bolt that you will need is item number 1310 it’s $2.52 the nut you’ll need is item number 1320 and it’s $2.18, I am not sure if you could use standard hardware or not I know the nut is a self locking nut the bolt is probably a standard bolt but I’m not sure. If you send me your email I can send you a picture of the schematic and show you where the parts are otherwise call them their phone number is at the top of their homepage and They will be more than happy to help you just tell them Jim‘s fix-it shop sent you. Thanks Jim
What about the rear hitch plate (7301297YP) currently shows unavailable.... I recently had a catastrophic accident which bent the rear plate, pressing the yoke against the drive wheel... cant find this rear hitch plate anywhere.. I guess I'm just up the creek... or maybe I can just go stone age and try to hammer it back in place... any suggestions??? Thanks for your help
EdJuan Burriss
Hi it’s Jim
I think you’re going to have to go Stone Age and beat it back into shape the rear plate on your rear case is welded there’s no way to replace that send me a picture if you can and I’ll see if I can figure out what to do with it. thanks Jim
1 more question for later. Can you change from that brake lever with the shoe on the end to that metal band like on yours??
Vinnie C
Hi Vinnie
You probably could but you would have to change your sprocket and shaft on your chain case to except the brake drum. Thanks Jim
@@jimjackson9381 oh.. does that 3/4" for tightening up the brake cable on my machine as well
Vinnie C
I am not sure what you’re talking about can you send me a picture to my email. Thanks Jim
Vinnie C
Hi it’s Jim.
I am not sure what three-quarter inch item you’re talking about can you send me a picture or give me a little more details thanks. Jim
@@jimjackson9381 yeah I'm talking about that scale ruler you used and stuck it in the brake cable spring to measure how much to tighten up the cable..is it 3/4" for all snappers.
Hi Jim I've been checking out you videos and I was wondering if you knew anything about how to test the coil on my snapper it has a tecumesh engine model v6070361j
Bill Greene
Hi Bill it's Jim
I know a little bit about it what are you trying to check
Hey Jim I'm looking at your videos my Snapper was running real good and then the belt broke I try to put a new belt on there it wouldn't start so I put a new ignition switch the battery checks out okay but I still can't get it to start what am I doing wrong and I wish you was close to me so you could work on my snapper and I am in Georgia
Carolyn Shook
Hi it’s Jim
Sounds like you have a safety switch as giving you issues there’s one on the mower deck that you could have bumped, and you may have one in your main case where the yolk is check them out and let me know. Thanks Jim
Can you post a video on how to replace the clutch/brake spring? Mine broke and I got a new one but don't know how to put in on. Thank you!
Jana Crawford
Can you send me a picture of it I'm not sure which one you're talking about thanks Jim. You can send it to my email
Where is your email?
Found it. Took picture of it and sent it.
Jana Crawford
jimsfixitshop@gmail.com
Did you get the picture?
How to adjust the chain on a Toro 825 riding lawn mower
Well that’s a good question but I’ve never worked on one so you’re gonna have to send me some pictures so I can see you what you’re talking about. Jim
Jim, where can I purchase a copy of Tim's service manual?
Randy Moore
Hi Randy
I got mine from Parts Tree.Com. I went through all of the different schematics and did screenshots and had them printed out. Jim
Hi Randy
You could also call Briggs & Stratton. in Milwaukee Wisconsin and they probably can get you a copy of those manuals. Jim
HOW CAN I BY-PASS THE CLUTCH SAFTY SWITCH ON MY SNAPPER RER MOWER MODEL #7800950-00???
Well that is a touchy subject, if you bring your snapper into a dealership to get it worked on and your safety system is not working properly they will not work on your machine unless you let them fix that first.
And as far as me telling my viewers how to unhook it I have thousands of people watching my videos all over the world and if somebody unhook it and gets hurt I can be held responsible I am not worried as far as a viewer suing me but the first thing your insurance company is going to Ask you is to unhook that for you or who told you how to unhook it, Insurance companies today are always looking for a way to get their money back that they paid out in a claim. Jim
Hey Jim. I finally got my Snapper series13 machine all back together. I don't have a scale small enough to measure the brake spring 3/4" compressed. Do you have any suggestions how I could measure it?? Puzzled in Wisconsin..lol
Use small object nail, stiff wire or something like this, stick it up in brake spring holding your thumbnail on depth pull out and measure with scale.
Where can I get a copy of Tim's book?
Are you looking for a copy of the operators manual, I could take it to the print shop and have them make me a copy of it but I’m not sure what they would charge you can go to Briggs & Stratton. in Milwaukee Wisconsin and they will send you a PDF file of the books that you need if you have your model number. Jim
Thanks Jim. I was looking for the service manual. I found a PDF of an old one on the Snapper website, but it's for series 4, 5, & 6 with the bicycle handlebars and doesn't have the cable adjustment in it since those still used the brake band and drum. I couldn't find one on their site for the current units.
@@JDski I may have some information on what you need adjusted what are you trying to do and what isn’t your machine doing for you. Jim
I'm ok for now, I just wanted to see if I could find the manual if it is available for future reference. I'll check with my dealer. I've only had my unit for a little over a month which I bought brand new, so no issues yet other than it squeaking where the frame pivots on the center tube. I sprayed some WD40 there while having it standing up which seems to have fixed it for now. I didn't see any grease fittings there. Does this sound normal?
@@JDski Well the squeaking doesn’t know grease fitting does, WD-40 evaporates it doesn’t last long you’d be better off to try to drip some standard oil in a crack to see if that helps. Jim
What year snapper is that.?
Matt Hill
Hi Matt it's Jim
That Machine that I rebuilt is my bosses 2012 it's the last good one they built before they re-engineered them thanks for watching. Jim
What size tires are those?
Zizwe Hunt
The tires are 16“ x 6 1/2 x 8
Thanks for watching, hope your a subscriber I could use your help. Jim
@@jimjackson9381 They just look skinny to me. But, Thank you! i learned a lot from your channel.
80/90 will leak u need 00 gear oil