The technical skills to pull this off are very interesting to follow...but I must admit, the final polishing is where you got me. Hand rubbed beauty comes to life.
Much respect to you Mike! I would never attempt to freehand with the router like that. The completed board is amazing. Having made one for my son for Christmas, I know how much work goes into getting it just right. I would love to see more frequent videos!
Really nice job on this board - important to have the algebraic notation even though it's extra effort. Some tips to make the job easier and faster: 1) When epoxying use a syringe to carefully insert the required amount of epoxy into grooves (routed letters and numbers) and save excess sanding afterwards and staining around the letters / numbers. 2) When using those pump systems, they are simple for large amounts of resin, but for small amounts like this, you can use a small measuring cup and do quarter pumps. 3) The corners splines should be cut into approximately sized triangles first, to save material and cutting time after glues dries, as it's easier to cut the splines outside the board than in, and wastes a lot less material as you can cut multiple triangles from a small strip or square. 4) @11:25 that is a very bad and dangerous sanding technique! You can sand through the electrical cord, or cause it to grab and pinch / jam and break, plus you can't see the sanding job very well. I appreciate camera angles for the TH-cam video but not at the expense of safety and good technique - you can place the camera at a 45 degree angle from behind and we can see perfectly fine.
Awesome job again on this one! Your hand router skills are right on dude. That’s great you’re in nova. I was born in Canada but live in Richmond Virginia and see ya got a Tim hortons coffee can! Phenomenal job on the project and video editing
That's funny. I'm from Canada too. We moved to the U.S. about 20 years ago but we like to go back from time to time to get some coffee from Tim Horton's. They make the best cans for finishing work. LOL. Thanks for all the feedback! --Mike
great work, note : if it is possible to leave extra margin around the playing area to keep the pieces from falling while playing in case the player put the piece on the edge
I'll be starting on a chess table very soon. The board have 3" around the playing field and then another 2 1/2" around that where the chess board is inset into the table. I hope to get a video of that project out in a few months.
YES I WOULD !! Wonderful work. Watched many of your video's and love your channel. Like to applaud you on everything from wood design, wood and tool skills, finishing skills ....... ( btw, is the shellac a sub for sanding sealer ? ) etc .... Your filming , narration and editing is awesome as well. You really seem to understand the importance of ....... "the extra mile". I've been thinking about a design for my own chess board. It is similar to this one, in that, the squares are raised (but only about an 1/8" heavy and then the addition of kerfs between each square. So that the bottom of the kerfs are at the frames height. Literally suggesting each square to be it's own island. Question : How would you go about cutting the kerfs (after gluing the squares together ?) , by router w/fence board ? or by tablesaw & fence ? I think I'd fill the perimeter kerf w/ brass and maybe even gold leaf lettering & numbering, as I've seen you do. But, my lettering on the frame wouldn't have so much room beyond them. I mean to say, the frame would be mostly lettering w/a thinner solid edge, maybe 1/2 the left over you have above & tapered. Thanks for the video and your generous consideration, Sincerely .................................... Steph
I did something like that where I used a CNC router to cut a v-groove between each of the squares with a brass border around the perimeter. You can see it here on Instagram: instagram.com/p/CD9-SSzjdLl/ If you have access to a CNC, that's likely the best way to do it. Otherwise, I'd use a hand held router with edge guides. I'd be worried about using a table saw because the piece would be upside down and blocking the view so you wouldn't be able to see where you're cutting. I like the idea of using a router so that you can see where the bit is going to cut. In both cases, you'd need to put a strip of wood on the side where the bit exits the wood so you don't get any tear out.
Very nice work. Do you find any issues with spraying inside a small tent shelter such as dried finish particles landing on and embedding themselves into the finish surface?
The tent works well for me both to keep the polyurethane from getting on my tools and to keep dust off the piece that I'm finishing. The key, I think, is that I stop all other woodworking while the finishing is underway, so I'm not stirring up any dust during that period. After about 10 days of not being able to do anything, it'll be nice to get back to it!
I just found your channel. You've got an amazing gift which translates through to your beautiful work. Does the gloss or coating have to be sprayed on? Would you achieve the same results if you wiped it down instead?
It took me about 6 weeks to work up the courage to do the freehand routing but after I started, it didn't take as long as I expected. I was able to carve all of the notation in a single evening.
The technical skills to pull this off are very interesting to follow...but I must admit, the final polishing is where you got me. Hand rubbed beauty comes to life.
The hand routing worked great! The finish looks really elegant, shinny enough but not too much! Great work!
wow no need to outright lie man, not cool
Much respect to you Mike! I would never attempt to freehand with the router like that. The completed board is amazing. Having made one for my son for Christmas, I know how much work goes into getting it just right. I would love to see more frequent videos!
Really nice job on this board - important to have the algebraic notation even though it's extra effort. Some tips to make the job easier and faster:
1) When epoxying use a syringe to carefully insert the required amount of epoxy into grooves (routed letters and numbers) and save excess sanding afterwards and staining around the letters / numbers.
2) When using those pump systems, they are simple for large amounts of resin, but for small amounts like this, you can use a small measuring cup and do quarter pumps.
3) The corners splines should be cut into approximately sized triangles first, to save material and cutting time after glues dries, as it's easier to cut the splines outside the board than in, and wastes a lot less material as you can cut multiple triangles from a small strip or square.
4) @11:25 that is a very bad and dangerous sanding technique! You can sand through the electrical cord, or cause it to grab and pinch / jam and break, plus you can't see the sanding job very well. I appreciate camera angles for the TH-cam video but not at the expense of safety and good technique - you can place the camera at a 45 degree angle from behind and we can see perfectly fine.
Beautiful chess board and excellent coursework. Nice!
Enjoying these videos for the first time. I love chess / woodworking..! Peace :)
Wow that is some fine woodworking. I don't think i could make that. Well done man!
Now this is what I'm talking about. Old school it. 👍
Absolutely beautiful!
I love your videos. Many thanks for taking the time to post these.
Awesome job again on this one! Your hand router skills are right on dude. That’s great you’re in nova. I was born in Canada but live in Richmond Virginia and see ya got a Tim hortons coffee can! Phenomenal job on the project and video editing
That's funny. I'm from Canada too. We moved to the U.S. about 20 years ago but we like to go back from time to time to get some coffee from Tim Horton's. They make the best cans for finishing work. LOL. Thanks for all the feedback! --Mike
great work, note : if it is possible to leave extra margin around the playing area to keep the pieces from falling while playing in case the player put the piece on the edge
I'll be starting on a chess table very soon. The board have 3" around the playing field and then another 2 1/2" around that where the chess board is inset into the table. I hope to get a video of that project out in a few months.
YES I WOULD !!
Wonderful work. Watched many of your video's and love your channel. Like to applaud you on everything from wood design, wood and tool skills, finishing skills ....... ( btw, is the shellac a sub for sanding sealer ? ) etc .... Your filming , narration and editing is awesome as well. You really seem to understand the importance of ....... "the extra mile".
I've been thinking about a design for my own chess board. It is similar to this one, in that, the squares are raised (but only about an 1/8" heavy and then the addition of kerfs between each square. So that the bottom of the kerfs are at the frames height. Literally suggesting each square to be it's own island.
Question :
How would you go about cutting the kerfs (after gluing the squares together ?) , by router w/fence board ? or by tablesaw & fence ?
I think I'd fill the perimeter kerf w/ brass and maybe even gold leaf lettering & numbering, as I've seen you do. But, my lettering on the frame wouldn't have so much room beyond them. I mean to say, the frame would be mostly lettering w/a thinner solid edge, maybe 1/2 the left over you have above & tapered.
Thanks for the video and your generous consideration,
Sincerely ....................................
Steph
I did something like that where I used a CNC router to cut a v-groove between each of the squares with a brass border around the perimeter. You can see it here on Instagram: instagram.com/p/CD9-SSzjdLl/ If you have access to a CNC, that's likely the best way to do it. Otherwise, I'd use a hand held router with edge guides. I'd be worried about using a table saw because the piece would be upside down and blocking the view so you wouldn't be able to see where you're cutting. I like the idea of using a router so that you can see where the bit is going to cut. In both cases, you'd need to put a strip of wood on the side where the bit exits the wood so you don't get any tear out.
It would probably suck to make but a chess board with variation in the height of each square may look pretty cool
I love the video! I kind of miss the old beginning credits and the music. You do such great stuff though.
Thanks! I thought it was time to change it up a bit because I didn't want to become too repetitive with the music, but I kind of miss it too.
Absoluting amazing and precise job.
simplesmente demais. trabalho sensacional. mais uma vez parabéns! !!
I just say! Spectacular!
Very nice work. Do you find any issues with spraying inside a small tent shelter such as dried finish particles landing on and embedding themselves into the finish surface?
The tent works well for me both to keep the polyurethane from getting on my tools and to keep dust off the piece that I'm finishing. The key, I think, is that I stop all other woodworking while the finishing is underway, so I'm not stirring up any dust during that period. After about 10 days of not being able to do anything, it'll be nice to get back to it!
I just found your channel. You've got an amazing gift which translates through to your beautiful work. Does the gloss or coating have to be sprayed on? Would you achieve the same results if you wiped it down instead?
You can definitely wipe on a finish. You'd likely want to thin the finish a bit so that it wipes on easily.
@@Woodumakeit Sounds good. Thanks for getting back to me.
Awesome
Can You do one complete with set, and how much?
I love your work! How can I get in contact with you about possibly making a chessboard ?
I would definately make this, but i would skip the satin and pumace stone and just buff out the high gloss (im a sucker for shiney)
Nice looking chess board Friend! Thanks for sharing the video with us.👍😎JP
I wood! if I could, but since I can't, you do it!
Wood U Make It, how much do you charge to make a chess board? 😊😊😊
Nice chess board
Nice work
Beautiful...
wonderful vedio .and nice work
Love it!
Would you sell any of these chess board that you make
nice job
how much the whole chess board with the pieces to cost me, if I buy.
see comment section above (if lazy: +-450$ depending on the options and wood you chooseol)
I didn't know Tim Hortons coffee can be used on wood?
Can I have one ?
Why are the carvings called algebraic notation? The numbers are Arabic and the letters are Latin.
send to Brazil
Tracing those letters and numbers with the router must of took you forever to do. And it came out good. Thats skill and patience.
It took me about 6 weeks to work up the courage to do the freehand routing but after I started, it didn't take as long as I expected. I was able to carve all of the notation in a single evening.
Jes
You must be a glutton for punishment! fantastic job
I think you're right. You cannot imagine how many chessboards I've made that I have not videoed. 😊
and now.. we *all* wanna know: *how much* had Austrian dude have to pay for this beauty? Ha, ha.. just kidding..
Amitofo Xie Xie
Ok-ok, since nobody else asked...
If I wanted you to make me one,
🤔Uhh, err, umm...How Much$ (?)
This one with the engraved notation would be $450. You can contact me at woodumakeit@gmail.com if you're interested.
While I would need to compare in person this looks comparable to the $1000 and up boards from House of Staunton. Beautiful work.
Human controlled router?!? Unsubscribe! 😎
Next time do that with laser