How to brew a Juicy NEIPA, keys to success. Brains to Glass!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 ต.ค. 2024
- Juicy Hazy IPAs are hard to brew correctly, and often frustrate a homebrewer when the style does not produce a beer you were hoping for. This video will give you keys to brewing and keeping a NEIPA bright Juicy and shelf stable.
RECIPE CORRECTION: I made a mistake when selecting the dry hop amount for mosaic, it was supposed to be 3 oz of mosaic for the dry hop
Links to products needed in this video.
amzn.to/2FqKJHf (gauge)
amzn.to/2GMaJ0E (post set kit)
amzn.to/2GMeT8M (muslin bags 10 count)
amzn.to/314INM9 (spunding regulator)
amzn.to/315tPpn ( swivel connector)
amzn.to/3lDl0e0 (stainless Tee)
amzn.to/3748Dnw (nickel coated earth magnets)
![[DRIP] ‘CLIK CLAK’ PREVIEW](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/bcxkcOSbpac/mqdefault.jpg)
This was one of the most informative brewing videos I've seen on u tube.
Thank you for sharing your experience.
Thanks Gary . I appreciate you taking the time to respond to all of out here. Cheers
Hi, Some fine tuning I have applied to my NEIPA’s which might prove useful to some, 1. I have a Fermzillla and I ferment at 5 psi, since I’ve found the Lallemand Verdant yeast that I use (from a starter) is very sensitive to too much pressure. 2. I whirlpool in a bag, i.e. I have a 30 litre nylon bag which I put into the kettle after flameout and add the leaf hops to this once temperature hits 80C, I prefer leaf hops (when I can get them) in the whirlpool as they are easier to collect in the bag. 15 minute whirlpool to get full utilisation of the hops then into the Fermzilla through my CFC 3. I’ve never had a successful bio-T so I don’t dry hop at all during fermentation, my entire (huge) dry hop charge is added as I’m cold crashing at 15C. Continue to cold crash at 0C for 2/3 days. In the early stages (12 hours) of the crash I do bubble in CO2 through the Trub jar valves to keep the hops in suspension to get better utilisation but I think this is just my OCD kicking in and I’m not sure it makes any difference 4. I’ve tried adding hops through the trub jar but it’s often an absolute bugger to get off so I use it’s valves to bubble in CO2 from the bottom to give me a positive CO2 pressure as I add the dry hops from the top. 5. Absolutely agree that a sealed transfer is the only way to go. I fill my keg brim full of water plus 5g Sodium Metabisulfate, I then flush this out with CO2 which leaves a tiny amount of water plus SMB in the keg and guarantees no oxygen and no need to “burp” the keg. 6. Transfer the beer under pressure as described and the tiny dilution of SMB will scavenge any oxygen that may (God knows how!) still be present. I’ve had bright Orange beer from the keg after 12 weeks (the longest an NEIPA has ever lasted😀) Cheers.
Wow thank you for this additional info. Viewer will find this very helpful, cheers
Do you have to raise the pressure up from 5 psi before you cold crash?
@@Wulrus_Jones That's a very good point, yes I do, being a sealed vessel at low temperature and pressure it's easy to collapse the Fermzilla - when crashing a fermenting bucket who hasn't learnt the hard way and sucked up fluid from the blow off container😟. Being an inveterate fiddler I normally keep a close watch on the beer and add gas as required, it's a useful way to pre-carbonate the beer before kegging.
@@clivebrooker1 thanks for the response. Yes I have learned the hard way also. I am fermenting a verdant neipa right now in the fermzilla at 5psi. When I am ready to dry hop and cold crash what would you recommend I set the pressure at for that process? This is my first brew in the fermzilla.
@@Wulrus_Jones Once the fermentation is finished you can push the pressure to as high as you feel comfortable, I would say 10 - 15 psi would be fine. On a related note I saw a tip on The Home Brew Network channel to use skateboard self-adhesive grip tape on the trub jar to provide much better grip, either by hand or with the supplied tool. I don’t know if you’re in the UK but here Toolstation sells a self-adhesive nonslip tape for stairs, I’ve used this and it’s brilliant, I may well go back to dry hopping via the trub jar now I can be sure I can undo it easily (obviously, purge, purge and purge again 😀)
For dry hopping, purge the collection jar with Co2 and then turn the fermzilla upside down and then drop the hops in :)
I like that never thought of that, cheers
best video on NE IPA out there -wish i had found it earlier -many thanks
Just came across your channel and liked and subscribed! I'm more of a WC IPA guy but I shall give this one a try. Genus Brewing recommends adding ascorbic acid in the mash I believe at about 3-5 grams for a 5 gallon batch which is suppose to create the compounds/precursors to make hoppy beers shelf stable. I don't understand the science behind it or why, but that's what they do. You didn't mention any additional oxygenation of the wort (tank, carb stone). Not necessary? Wondering because I don't want to buy that stuff if I don't have to. 😂
Wow Gary! This is really impressive! So much info here to go through. I am getting ready to brew a NEIPA soon ...plan to use this process. I use many of these processes but not all. Appreciate all your time on this video! Also found I love Golden Promise on my NEIPA! Great job! Sláinte!
glad you liked it
That dry hopping method is pretty cool!
its much faster, you literally just pull the magnets and viola your dry hopping. Cheers
Lol. I wish I could give you 2 thumbs up. Thank you for sharing your recipe for all of us wanting to try this style.it means a lot. Cheers.
This was brilliant Gary ... well done Sir!
thank you Leo!! cheers buddy!
Great video!
If using the Lallemand Verdant IPA yeast I've heard it is not recommended to pressure ferment as you would miss on the tropical/apricot esters that yeast is producing. Cheers!
I have not heard that, I will try it but maybe 5 psi instead of 10psi, based on this info. Thank you
Thanks for taking the time to post such a well made informative video.
I do closed transfers and have a Fermentasaurus and now have a 10.1 corny keg that I use most of the time. I'm planning on doing my first pressure fermentation soon and your video is very helpful and I'm glad to hear about your improvements from it.
I'm constantly trying to improve my dry hopping techniques and agree with you that 1 day is all it takes and find more time leads to astringency. The one issue I have is diacetyl being detectable after the beer is finished when I hop an English yeast like 1318 after fermentation is complete for 1 day and transfer. I believe the problem is the hop creep from the quick dry hopping starting the formation of new diacetyl and not that I didn't do a proper rest before my dry hopping. Have you had this problem and have any fixes for it? I've heard that filtering the yeast out stops this, but don't have that level of filtration nor would I want to for a hazy. I've also heard of enzymes that some commercial brewers use that breakdown the precursors, but I haven't seen them available to home brewers.
Cheers
With your diacetyl problem I have had that happen it is typically metals like copper, Iron, and Manganese react with the proteins, copper immersion chillers can be a source of copper but some or most is used up in fermentation, iron not as much, so if you have iron in your water try RO water. Now Manganese is one that increases with some hops for instance Columbus has 101.9 ppm of Manganese, whereas galaxy has only 33.1 ppm. so reduce iron and try to use hops lower in Manganese. Staling in inevitable but you can slow it down. Cheers!
Very informative, cheers from Brisbane, Aus 🍻
Oops, should have read all the comments, I see you already answered this question, good video
Thanks for the recipe... going to take a stab at it on my next brew. The Mango puree... all I can find is the sweetened kind. Is that what you recommend? Also, can I introduce it at the end of the boil to help cool the wort to whirlpool temps?
Sorry I did not get notified about this question. I just happen to see it responding to another question. Do not add to the end of the boil, it should be added to near the end of fermentation. In the hot wort will cause the mango to become a volatile and break down. Besides the yeast will chew through too much of the mango leaving very little left behind in the flavor when the beers is finished.
@@chubbymermaidbrewing Thanks Gary. Does the purée stay mixed with the beer or does it separate? I saw a recipe using pineapple purée mixed into the keg prior to racking and was wondering if the purée would settle to the bottom over time or if it would stay integrated with the beer. Thanks again and happy 4th!
So Gary. Are you purging the whole keg with CO2 then filling or just getting a good layer of CO2 and waiting a few minutes for separation the starting the transfer then purging again to get rid of the oxygen that is sitting on the CO2 layer? Thanks in advance. Loving your videos and thank you for sharing your knowledge with all of us.
Great question, so the theory is CO2 is heavier than air but when you first purge the keg (must be from the liquid in post) causes a lot if turbulence therefore a mixing of oxygen and co2. If you let it sit for awhile then it will layer and you would push the remaining oxygen out through the gas post, in theory. To be safe the best way to do it is fill the keg with star San water mix and then push the water star San mix out through the liquid post until empty, that should get all o2 out of the keg. So you're next question might be how long would it take to layer so I don't have to waste all that co2. Good question, not sure if it happens right away or over hours, the real theory is it doesn't layer at all because it diffuses in our atmosphere at about 0.04% and if it layered we would all be breathing co2. So the best answer is purge the whole keg. Cheers.
hey man great video, Question for ya... Why do you want to keep calcium under 75 ppm? Just wondering bc to get the amount of chloride I want, my levels are usually above 100. Thanks for the help!
Sorry i missed this comment initially. so i seem to be sensitive to chalky feel/tastes in beer, and when i get to 100 i definitely start to feel that chalk feel on the tongue. 75 seems to bee right for me, but i have heard people going as high as 150ppm. Try 75 you might like better. Also this is recipe dependent too. you may have a recipe that does better with 100 ppm, I have tried higher numbers on calcium and i picked up chalk. Cheers
@@chubbymermaidbrewing Hey thanks for getting back to me, I really appreciate it. That makes sense though, I'll have to try lower next time.
Brilliant video. Cheers man
Cheers! thanks for watching!!
Where did you buy those magnets and what grade stainless steel are they?
i miss spoke in the video they are food grade nickel allow coated ( Ni+Cu+Ni) which is food/medical grade, so technically not stainless but a lot of the same qualities, use the link in the "show More" portion to find the products in this video
@@chubbymermaidbrewing thank you. You have never had an issue with these magnets imparting an off flavor? No metallic flavor or anything?
nice beercave!
Thank you, I would like a dedicated space, but this works, cheers
is this recipe on beersmith ?
Where do you purchase your magnets, “I can only find nickel plated and not sure if they are food grade.
Nickel is in stainless steel, my understanding it is food grade.
Great video! Thank you.
Cheers! Glad you liked it.