I 3d printed a tri-bahtinov mask for my scope but have never quite figured it out - seeing this walkthrough helps a lot, I hadn't realised each screw moved two lines!
I was going to try to print one myelself, but my build plate wasn't large enough and my software wouldn't let me edit the design to cut it into smaller pieces. Let me know how it goes next time you get a chance to test it out.
Hi Mr. Wilson, if you align the radially parallel slots in the mask (there should be 3 sections of the mask where the slots are parallel to the radius basically) to each of the collimation screws, then you automatically know which screw affects which diffraction pattern group. You can also cut out a mask out of cardboard to hide all slots except one set of the radial slots and the Non radial slots opposite to them, this will isolate the diffraction pattern belonging to each collimation screw.
just a word of caution here: That drawing was very clever. Just do not forget to recenter your star, C8 without reducer tends to add coma to the stars almost already in the middle, so you may be misguided into bad collimation just because you can hit this no flat region very easly.
Thanks, that is a great point. That exact problem has had me flirting with an upgrade to the edge hd for a long while now 😉 haven't been able to clear it with the wife yet though 💸🤑
Hi Mr. Wilson, thanks for the video! I am just wondering what about the primary mirror? Maybe in this kind of telescope it is not necessary, but in case of Newtons mainly the decollimation of the primary mirror is the problem. Thx!
I don't have this type of telescope to test what I'm about to tell you, so grains of salt. But it seems like the mask would still work with a Newtonian reflector. You would place the mask at the front of the telescope same as you see me doing in this video. You may have to rig something up to be able to hold the mask in place since you don't have a corrector plate to rest the mask on.
Yes, that will happen. You can actually see it happening in my video as well. Every time I make a small adjustment I have to pan around to move the star back into the center of the field of view. You might have better luck if you make smaller adjustments. That way the star won't move quite as much. The longer the focal length on your telescope, the more pronounced this problem will be. If you have one, you might try putting a focal reducer on your telescope to mitigate the problem a little bit. Then once you've got it pretty well dialed in, you can take the focal reducer off and do some fine tuning at the native focal length.
They are pretty much a dot in all telescopes. I just read an article how we were just able to capture surface detail on the North Star for the first time using one of them world's most sophisticated telescopes. These batonov masks cause that point of light to create diffraction spikes that are visible in any telescope as long as the star is fairly bright. When your stars are out of focus, however, they stop looking like points of light and look more like fuzzy disks. That's going to make your entire image look fuzzy as a result. So getting the proper collimation and focus is essential for a clear picture.
![Collimation of Newton Telescope using [SVBONY] Laser & Cheshire](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/wgIhvsxyB1Y/mqdefault.jpg)
The best video I’ve seen that actually explains how to use this mask to achieve collimation. Thanks!
Thank you for your kind words! Clear skies 🙂
I 3d printed a tri-bahtinov mask for my scope but have never quite figured it out - seeing this walkthrough helps a lot, I hadn't realised each screw moved two lines!
I was going to try to print one myelself, but my build plate wasn't large enough and my software wouldn't let me edit the design to cut it into smaller pieces. Let me know how it goes next time you get a chance to test it out.
This to me is the best technique ive seen.....!!!! and i can relate with your behind the scenes entertainment....
This is very helpful! Too good to be true in yet it is! Outstanding Sir
Thank you very much sir
I'm glad you found this helpful 😊
Well done, great methodical approach!
Very well ! Thanks
Hi Mr. Wilson, if you align the radially parallel slots in the mask (there should be 3 sections of the mask where the slots are parallel to the radius basically) to each of the collimation screws, then you automatically know which screw affects which diffraction pattern group. You can also cut out a mask out of cardboard to hide all slots except one set of the radial slots and the Non radial slots opposite to them, this will isolate the diffraction pattern belonging to each collimation screw.
Whaaaaaaaat?! I'm totally trying this! Thanks for the tip 😍
Hi every buddy who is reading this comment😃I stole the show because I'm his daughter :)
Hey Mr. Wilson! 🙋♀️ Have you gotten a new co-host? Great explanations on collimation and how to tweak them for crisp viewing and photos.
She snuck in! 🤩
just a word of caution here: That drawing was very clever. Just do not forget to recenter your star, C8 without reducer tends to add coma to the stars almost already in the middle, so you may be misguided into bad collimation just because you can hit this no flat region very easly.
Thanks, that is a great point. That exact problem has had me flirting with an upgrade to the edge hd for a long while now 😉 haven't been able to clear it with the wife yet though 💸🤑
Colminated????
Hi Mr. Wilson, thanks for the video! I am just wondering what about the primary mirror? Maybe in this kind of telescope it is not necessary, but in case of Newtons mainly the decollimation of the primary mirror is the problem. Thx!
I don't have this type of telescope to test what I'm about to tell you, so grains of salt. But it seems like the mask would still work with a Newtonian reflector. You would place the mask at the front of the telescope same as you see me doing in this video. You may have to rig something up to be able to hold the mask in place since you don't have a corrector plate to rest the mask on.
I have had no luck - I find that I move the bob knobs the star leaves the field of view.
I will try again using your method soon.
Thank you!
Yes, that will happen. You can actually see it happening in my video as well. Every time I make a small adjustment I have to pan around to move the star back into the center of the field of view. You might have better luck if you make smaller adjustments. That way the star won't move quite as much. The longer the focal length on your telescope, the more pronounced this problem will be. If you have one, you might try putting a focal reducer on your telescope to mitigate the problem a little bit. Then once you've got it pretty well dialed in, you can take the focal reducer off and do some fine tuning at the native focal length.
No "n" in "collimate".😉
A star in an affordable telescope is simply a dot.
They are pretty much a dot in all telescopes. I just read an article how we were just able to capture surface detail on the North Star for the first time using one of them world's most sophisticated telescopes. These batonov masks cause that point of light to create diffraction spikes that are visible in any telescope as long as the star is fairly bright. When your stars are out of focus, however, they stop looking like points of light and look more like fuzzy disks. That's going to make your entire image look fuzzy as a result. So getting the proper collimation and focus is essential for a clear picture.
Co LLI Mation Colli mation not colmination, but your daughter stole the show :)
The "L" is before the "M".
Ha Ha! Fair play to your girl there. Just like your pupils when your back is turned.
Exactly! Kids always know when you're not looking 🤪
@@MrWilsonsChannel I thought all teachers had eyes in the back of their heads?