Your ability to simplify this tedious job and highlight every detail is truly impressive. We're grateful for your dedication and hard work; thank you for making it look effortless. 👍🏻❤️
any time i have to remove the oil pan , i always buy a new oil pump and pick-up screen and replace them while im in there. i know that you don`t have to do this , but it gives me peace of mind, also it is good practice to clean out the filter screen and tube with carb/ brake cleaner then blow it out with air. just in case anything is caught up in there. also if you know someone that has an engine hoist. it makes this so much easier. one last thing. i always use anti-seize on the exhaust bolts and the egr to pipe nut( i use the 1800 degree copper stuff) just to be on the safe side. good video
Im actually planning on buying a 92 F-150 with the Windsor in it on Monday, with only 109k miles. Pretty excited, and seeing all the mods you're doing, is really making me less nervous for when I get my hands on it. Keep up the great work brother!
Congratulations! Since these trucks are all starting to tick over the 30 year mark finding one with such few miles is getting tricky nowadays. Your 92 will give you many, many, years of faithful service. In return, all it asks of you is a lil maintenence and TLC once and again. Even if you are not mechanically inclined, it is a forgiving truck should you make a mistake while repairing/servicing things. Should you have an oops and screw something up or break something accidentally parts are still abundant & cheap, even after 28 years since end of production. The majority of minor repairs and regular maintenence require only simple, basic, hand tools. My daily driver is a 1993 F150 with the 300 big six engine and auto trans that I christened 'The Ugly Truckling' If, remarkably, anybody has read this comment to this point I have 1 last thing, I promise: If u plan on driving your newly acquired rig a lot, keep with you a small tool bag with the following: some 1/4 sockets/ratchet, couple screwdrivers - both kinds, a Torx T15 and T20 driver, needlenose and channel lock pliers, a spare ignition module, a spare ignition coil, a roll of Super 88 electrical tape, a few blade fuses 15, 20 amp, a good, bright, flashlight, 10 to 15 zip ties (12" long) and a roll of blue mechanic towels. Thats the secret sauce that will get u home if anything unforseen creeps up while you are out and about - ask me how I know ; ) Happy Driving!!
This job took me awhile to complete, but was well worth the effort. Now my truck has ZERO leaks. Let me know if you have any questions regarding this repair.
Thank you I really like your video next Friday, which is my birthday. Me and my friend are gonna do my rear main seal transmission pump seal timeing chain oil pan, gasket, and new oil pump also I get the check the condition of the motor soon as I drop the oil pan. It runs good but just need some love.
I feel your pain, I had to do this on my 1996, nightmare, unless you have good garage with right equipment! I had to fish my new gasket through gap! Wish I had better knowledge and equipment at the time! Thanks for helping so many of us out here!
I get educated every time I tune in. Have you done or going to do updates on Headers/starter/alternator and other mods/upgrades over a yr old on the Bronco? I ask because just bought a 91 and learning how to work on it by watching your vids🤙🏽
Yes, the rear main seal is another common area of leakage. I have a video on that topic. Be sure to button up/change the pcv valve and hoses/grommets as an aged PCV system can be a cause of leak and oil consumption
Nice job, always amazes me how clean your engine bay is. I was able to put a new fel pro oil pan gasket on my 94 f150 2wd 5L V8 without raising the engine. The pan came down just barely enough for me to be able to get the gasket in place, around the oil pickup, etc. Was definitely challenging but do-able. No leaks for over a year, very happy with fel-pro.
@@rcplaneguy it almost makes me depressed seeing how clean this man’s truck is. Every bolt actually comes off with a wrench and a Rachet LOL. Thing looks like it came off the dealership floor yesterday. I hate the rust belt.
I’m at the point of reinstalling. How did you manage the oil pump shaft? Did you have it sticking out of the pump and lined up with distributer during install or did you somehow retain the shaft in the distributer and align the pump with the shaft? Either way seems like a blind install.
Hey - I have this issue when cold starting my 1990 F150. I have no clue what the issue is, but maybe you can help troubleshoot with the video? takes about 30 cranks to finally turn over, but once it starts it doesn't have any issues until it sits for about 8+ hours. Then the same issue th-cam.com/users/shortsu3DBmB38CN4?feature=share Any help here?
Check fuel pressure with key on engine off, should be at least 20psi, once cranking and on startup it should be at least 30psi. If not a faulty fuel pump, regulator, and or fuel filter. Also the pickup coil and ignition module can be the issue. While engine is running check engine vacuum should be at least 14psi, is not then a vacuum leak is the culprit which could be intake gaskets…
This was a horrible and stupid design by ford. This is a good approach if you don’t have an engine hoist. In most cases, if you have a hoist, you can typically get away with not having to removal the plenum and all most of the other stuff. This just gives you some additional lifting room to get the engine higher. It is important that you keep an eye on the transmission coolers lines if you don’t remove them. They flex as you lift the engine so just be careful. I’ve seen many people actually finesse the new gasket in there without going through all the hassle but it’s difficult and probably not worth it. Dropping the pan will assume the mating surface is clean, and it won’t leak. As for the exhaust, if you have rust, it’s much easier to disconnect the exhaust at the top, and then cut the other side. When you’re done, you can clamp it back, or preferably weld it. Also, if you want, it might not be a bad idea to change the oil pump at this time if you have a lot of miles. I threw a new mellings pump in mine. Lastly, if you go through this effort and anyone else here is in the rust belt, please paint your pan. These things are such thin garbage steel. Even if you still have a factory pan, clean it up and put some high temp paint on. Mine got a pinhole which is why I replaced it. They rot out very easy. With the new pan, I cleaned it with brake cleaner and used high heat primer, and top coated it with engine enamel paint.
This is the best truck repair video I've ever seen. I need to replace my pan on a 97 7.3 Powerstroke and I'm going to try this method.
Your ability to simplify this tedious job and highlight every detail is truly impressive. We're grateful for your dedication and hard work; thank you for making it look effortless. 👍🏻❤️
I do what I can
Great video, no fluff
Thank you
any time i have to remove the oil pan , i always buy a new oil pump and pick-up screen and replace them while im in there. i know that you don`t have to do this , but it gives me peace of mind, also it is good practice to clean out the filter screen and tube with carb/ brake cleaner then blow it out with air. just in case anything is caught up in there. also if you know someone that has an engine hoist. it makes this so much easier. one last thing. i always use anti-seize on the exhaust bolts and the egr to pipe nut( i use the 1800 degree copper stuff) just to be on the safe side. good video
Good advice! Replacing the oil pump and cleaning the pick-up screen at the same time is a good way to prevent future issues.
Im actually planning on buying a 92 F-150 with the Windsor in it on Monday, with only 109k miles. Pretty excited, and seeing all the mods you're doing, is really making me less nervous for when I get my hands on it. Keep up the great work brother!
Right on!
Congratulations! Since these trucks are all starting to tick over the 30 year mark finding one with such few miles is getting tricky nowadays.
Your 92 will give you many, many, years of faithful service. In return, all it asks of you is a lil maintenence and TLC once and again. Even if you are not mechanically inclined, it is a forgiving truck should you make a mistake while repairing/servicing things.
Should you have an oops and screw something up or break something accidentally parts are still abundant & cheap, even after 28 years since end of production.
The majority of minor repairs and regular maintenence require only simple, basic, hand tools.
My daily driver is a 1993 F150 with the 300 big six engine and auto trans that I christened 'The Ugly Truckling'
If, remarkably, anybody has read this comment to this point I have 1 last thing, I promise: If u plan on driving your newly acquired rig a lot, keep with you a small tool bag with the following: some 1/4 sockets/ratchet, couple screwdrivers - both kinds, a Torx T15 and T20 driver, needlenose and channel lock pliers, a spare ignition module, a spare ignition coil, a roll of Super 88 electrical tape, a few blade fuses 15, 20 amp, a good, bright, flashlight, 10 to 15 zip ties (12" long) and a roll of blue mechanic towels.
Thats the secret sauce that will get u home if anything unforseen creeps up while you are out and about - ask me how I know ; )
Happy Driving!!
This job took me awhile to complete, but was well worth the effort. Now my truck has ZERO leaks. Let me know if you have any questions regarding this repair.
This is an awesome video, thanks! Your rear main seal isn’t leaking? That sucks because I would love to see you make a video about that.
@@johnbennett4362 He has a video on rear main seal, check his channel out he has a full playlist
Thank you I really like your video next Friday, which is my birthday. Me and my friend are gonna do my rear main seal transmission pump seal timeing chain oil pan, gasket, and new oil pump also I get the check the condition of the motor soon as I drop the oil pan. It runs good but just need some love.
I feel your pain, I had to do this on my 1996, nightmare, unless you have good garage with right equipment! I had to fish my new gasket through gap! Wish I had better knowledge and equipment at the time! Thanks for helping so many of us out here!
Good job replacing the new oil pan gasket for your 1990 Ford Bronco after the old oil pan gaskets torn which causes oil leaks
Thanks!
Another great video!
Thank you!
I get educated every time I tune in.
Have you done or going to do updates on Headers/starter/alternator and other mods/upgrades over a yr old on the Bronco?
I ask because just bought a 91 and learning how to work on it by watching your vids🤙🏽
I’d like to have a link to all of your under hood items. It looks super clean. I’ll fish through the videos and see if I can find them.
quick question. Are there other places the engine can leak besides the oil pan and valve cover?
Yes, the rear main seal is another common area of leakage. I have a video on that topic. Be sure to button up/change the pcv valve and hoses/grommets as an aged PCV system can be a cause of leak and oil consumption
Nice job, always amazes me how clean your engine bay is. I was able to put a new fel pro oil pan gasket on my 94 f150 2wd 5L V8 without raising the engine. The pan came down just barely enough for me to be able to get the gasket in place, around the oil pickup, etc. Was definitely challenging but do-able. No leaks for over a year, very happy with fel-pro.
@@rcplaneguy it almost makes me depressed seeing how clean this man’s truck is. Every bolt actually comes off with a wrench and a Rachet LOL. Thing looks like it came off the dealership floor yesterday. I hate the rust belt.
I’m at the point of reinstalling. How did you manage the oil pump shaft? Did you have it sticking out of the pump and lined up with distributer during install or did you somehow retain the shaft in the distributer and align the pump with the shaft? Either way seems like a blind install.
I’m just gonna let it leak 😂 jk I’ll fix it in Dec
Hey - I have this issue when cold starting my 1990 F150. I have no clue what the issue is, but maybe you can help troubleshoot with the video? takes about 30 cranks to finally turn over, but once it starts it doesn't have any issues until it sits for about 8+ hours. Then the same issue
th-cam.com/users/shortsu3DBmB38CN4?feature=share
Any help here?
Check fuel pressure with key on engine off, should be at least 20psi, once cranking and on startup it should be at least 30psi. If not a faulty fuel pump, regulator, and or fuel filter. Also the pickup coil and ignition module can be the issue. While engine is running check engine vacuum should be at least 14psi, is not then a vacuum leak is the culprit which could be intake gaskets…
@@TheFixTech thanks! You're videos have helped with a few issues I've had with my F150.
This was a horrible and stupid design by ford.
This is a good approach if you don’t have an engine hoist. In most cases, if you have a hoist, you can typically get away with not having to removal the plenum and all most of the other stuff. This just gives you some additional lifting room to get the engine higher. It is important that you keep an eye on the transmission coolers lines if you don’t remove them. They flex as you lift the engine so just be careful.
I’ve seen many people actually finesse the new gasket in there without going through all the hassle but it’s difficult and probably not worth it. Dropping the pan will assume the mating surface is clean, and it won’t leak.
As for the exhaust, if you have rust, it’s much easier to disconnect the exhaust at the top, and then cut the other side. When you’re done, you can clamp it back, or preferably weld it.
Also, if you want, it might not be a bad idea to change the oil pump at this time if you have a lot of miles. I threw a new mellings pump in mine.
Lastly, if you go through this effort and anyone else here is in the rust belt, please paint your pan. These things are such thin garbage steel. Even if you still have a factory pan, clean it up and put some high temp paint on. Mine got a pinhole which is why I replaced it. They rot out very easy. With the new pan, I cleaned it with brake cleaner and used high heat primer, and top coated it with engine enamel paint.