Ooo, my ears are burning. Yes, the S1 print is ABS, that's why we're seeing cracks. (Polymaker Orange Galaxy) The one on the left is using S1 defaults, which was too fast, then I kept slowing it down and playing with infill. The one in the middle (still stuck to the bed) is run at 200mm/s on all walls & infill. (Doh, still too fast...it would be nice if they actually gave good profiles, it defaults at 500mm/s) This is the cab to my Death Racer and I need it for MRRF, so I gave up and put it on the K1Max and it printed fine using Creality Slicer defaults for ABS. I also needed one in red for Rick's Death Racer, but ran out of ABS, so it's PLA printed super beefy with like 6 walls and 20% infill, so that's why it was taking 20 hours. If it were "normal" it would be done in 10. I've run versions of this print several times (Death Racers usually come home in a shoe box) and the tree supports were never an issue on my other printers.
For the diamondback abuse find the cheapest carbon fiber filament you can, that has a inconsistent diameter and ground carbon instead of chopped carbon to try and clog it as much as possible
Nano Polymer is purple voodoo for print surfaces!!! Amazing stuff. A few drops will cover a 300mm bed, and last for many prints. Spritz with alcohol, and rebrush to rejuvenate. We got some great stuff from the filament swap, new spool of Prusa PETG and Amolen blue rainbow, and almost full Varishore TPU and Nylon G! Great idea, hope it becomes a staple at get togethers!
Over heat the diamond back past 300C to see what happens while printing. I did that with a .4 abrasive CHT nozzle and while printing some PCCF at 310C it actually pushed the abrasive tip out of the nozzle itself. I have never seen anything like that before and it blew my mind.
As someone who is using the vision minor in a 80%+ humidity environment I have to say it works great. The only complaint I have is it is impossible to get out of that bag as Grant found out
Grant, I modded the MK4 with a Volcano and on certain prints it halves the print time. Spitting out 30-40mm2/s of PLA or PETG. Speed and accell adjusted to accommodate the flow. For delicate parts, I may just revert back to the stock structural profiles, but man MK4 goes brrrrrr.
12:00 Actually I think I have a very plausible explanation of this one! "It's z-offsets? Always has been!" even the areas getting ripped up, it's not a mechanical fault that I can tell. The part that's not intuitive is why it's getting ripped up at weird but regular intervals. It's over-extruding on higher spots, then putting lines side by side.. those lines are building up a pressure as they get stacked beside each other, they can't all fit in the space given where the bed is too close! Then at regular intervals it is becoming a ridge that is so high the nozzle snags it on it's way past that spot, suddenly there's some space so this pressure is momentarily relieved a little, so regularly spaced rips appear!
Bowden tube on my old Ender 3 drove me crazy, it had to go all the way to the nozzle with no gap at all and if you cut a new tube you had to get it cut exactly right so there wasn't a gap. Doesn't take much to clog the nozzle of the original Ender 3.
yeah I still need to fix my obxidean nozzle. About the only thing I can think of at this point is to push PETG into it while it's hot (but not in the printer). And then pull it out. I'm thinking probably colder than the 450 I tried when trying to clean it.
Broken Screw means likely 1. no back pressure alarm or gauge 2. MI (melt Index) gauge and 3. the motor/drive(VFD ect.) had not been set up for max amps matched to the machine to cut out before snapping a 2"ish screw shards of the screws flights will destroy the die and possibly mark the barrel up, for this reason a breaker plate AKA rupture disc is used also and/or a flange with a copper nut with a stopper to act as a relief point to relive the over pressure state, should you not have any of the above safety equipment, industrial extruders can reach 10000 PSI and people get hurt bad when proper things are not used this will happen, I have never seen a broken screw without a reason for it, it just should not happen. Play safe tell your guy to check out Dynisco and to have the VFD set to A FLA of the machines max and test it and it will be the last screw ever broken again This could have been much worse hot poly is unforgiving so I had to share this. oh and get in check with regular eye checks on the barrel zone heaters to make sure they are working properly during the run times, and when you get your new screw have it measured and check your barrel to screw tolerances just like a piston and cylinder walls on a motor. Please play safe I cant stress the importance of this equipment in one comment but I can hope you get the idea if you get hot poly on you in volume you will only do it once I promise you, and it can spray like water and faster then you know, once it's on you your done like dinner and pulling it off immediately can make even more damage to your body wear a face shield and heat gloves when playing around real extruders especially under pressures and extreme heats, now back to keep making Awesome>
I feel I seen an ABS GF with 30% loading for the Diamondback to try I just can't remember whos but white Will have lead TI02 along with the GF I would think is the most abrasive for this nozzle to try
With a bit of luck I should finish my Senko print this weekend. All that remains is a few minor parts and I think I'm going to reprint her tail. I'm not happy with how I painted it. Question is......can I paint it better? I was hoping that if I switched colors mid print and had almost no purge and low infil (5%) that the color would fade. Well it did, but not like I thought. It immediately looks like a different color, but fades very quickly. Only a couple of layers. It looks more like bleeding than fading. I did use prusa slicer's cut tool with square dowels. But I ran into a problem where they are just slightly too long. I have a dremel. Maybe I can just sand them down a few layers. IT's already really close. 3d Gloop is working great.
@@3DMusketeers lol the umbrella was driving me nuts. It was looking good until.......layer shift. Then I'm like why am I printing a 2 color umbrella in 1 piece? Lets print the fabric and the pole separately. lol Now it won't print for shit! lol I flipped it around and now it's printing fine. And......I'm not happy with the paint job on her tail. So I'm going to reprint that as well. I'm taking most of the week off, so I should be done before the weekend.
I ran into an extrusion problem. After printing GF nylon, and then some TPU, after that my printer stopped extruding my normal petg. Cold pulls, needles nothing worked. Still extruded the nylon fine. Would just chew the filament. Your podcast with pez liz had a bunch of other possible causes, most of which would be taken care of by just swapping whole hotend. The $20 swap solved the problem. Now i have the separate hotend for the nylon. Thanks for covering the same things over and over again, makes it easy to find the answer.
Ooo, my ears are burning. Yes, the S1 print is ABS, that's why we're seeing cracks. (Polymaker Orange Galaxy) The one on the left is using S1 defaults, which was too fast, then I kept slowing it down and playing with infill. The one in the middle (still stuck to the bed) is run at 200mm/s on all walls & infill. (Doh, still too fast...it would be nice if they actually gave good profiles, it defaults at 500mm/s)
This is the cab to my Death Racer and I need it for MRRF, so I gave up and put it on the K1Max and it printed fine using Creality Slicer defaults for ABS. I also needed one in red for Rick's Death Racer, but ran out of ABS, so it's PLA printed super beefy with like 6 walls and 20% infill, so that's why it was taking 20 hours. If it were "normal" it would be done in 10. I've run versions of this print several times (Death Racers usually come home in a shoe box) and the tree supports were never an issue on my other printers.
Always look forward to PFF - I always learn something, thanks!
Remember kids use rubber protection ( silicone socks )
For the diamondback abuse find the cheapest carbon fiber filament you can, that has a inconsistent diameter and ground carbon instead of chopped carbon to try and clog it as much as possible
be safe, put a sock on it
"That's what" - She
Nano Polymer is purple voodoo for print surfaces!!! Amazing stuff. A few drops will cover a 300mm bed, and last for many prints. Spritz with alcohol, and rebrush to rejuvenate.
We got some great stuff from the filament swap, new spool of Prusa PETG and Amolen blue rainbow, and almost full Varishore TPU and Nylon G! Great idea, hope it becomes a staple at get togethers!
YW on the blue rainbow :) I got quite a few nice prints with another two spools I didn't swap.
Darned it, I was hoping for some Varishore, yum
ooooh I didnt know about the alcohol trick!
Over heat the diamond back past 300C to see what happens while printing. I did that with a .4 abrasive CHT nozzle and while printing some PCCF at 310C it actually pushed the abrasive tip out of the nozzle itself. I have never seen anything like that before and it blew my mind.
As someone who is using the vision minor in a 80%+ humidity environment I have to say it works great. The only complaint I have is it is impossible to get out of that bag as Grant found out
Grant, I modded the MK4 with a Volcano and on certain prints it halves the print time. Spitting out 30-40mm2/s of PLA or PETG. Speed and accell adjusted to accommodate the flow. For delicate parts, I may just revert back to the stock structural profiles, but man MK4 goes brrrrrr.
Regarding the silicon sock, Prusa never include them in neither the MK3S+ nor the XL.
but they should
12:00 Actually I think I have a very plausible explanation of this one! "It's z-offsets? Always has been!" even the areas getting ripped up, it's not a mechanical fault that I can tell. The part that's not intuitive is why it's getting ripped up at weird but regular intervals. It's over-extruding on higher spots, then putting lines side by side.. those lines are building up a pressure as they get stacked beside each other, they can't all fit in the space given where the bed is too close! Then at regular intervals it is becoming a ridge that is so high the nozzle snags it on it's way past that spot, suddenly there's some space so this pressure is momentarily relieved a little, so regularly spaced rips appear!
Vision Miner is AMAZING.
Just over a minute in and already begging :D it is your record m8 :D
Bowden tube on my old Ender 3 drove me crazy, it had to go all the way to the nozzle with no gap at all and if you cut a new tube you had to get it cut exactly right so there wasn't a gap. Doesn't take much to clog the nozzle of the original Ender 3.
I don't care even if it's an hour long. Would definitely love to see your deep dive video on Orca Slicer.
With 2.1 coming out, it may happen.
lol double fails for Grant! Once was funny. Twice was really funny. lol
yeah I still need to fix my obxidean nozzle. About the only thing I can think of at this point is to push PETG into it while it's hot (but not in the printer). And then pull it out. I'm thinking probably colder than the 450 I tried when trying to clean it.
Broken Screw means likely 1. no back pressure alarm or gauge 2. MI (melt Index) gauge and 3. the motor/drive(VFD ect.) had not been set up for max amps matched to the machine to cut out before snapping a 2"ish screw shards of the screws flights will destroy the die and possibly mark the barrel up, for this reason a breaker plate AKA rupture disc is used also and/or a flange with a copper nut with a stopper to act as a relief point to relive the over pressure state, should you not have any of the above safety equipment, industrial extruders can reach 10000 PSI and people get hurt bad when proper things are not used this will happen, I have never seen a broken screw without a reason for it, it just should not happen. Play safe tell your guy to check out Dynisco and to have the VFD set to A FLA of the machines max and test it and it will be the last screw ever broken again This could have been much worse hot poly is unforgiving so I had to share this. oh and get in check with regular eye checks on the barrel zone heaters to make sure they are working properly during the run times, and when you get your new screw have it measured and check your barrel to screw tolerances just like a piston and cylinder walls on a motor. Please play safe I cant stress the importance of this equipment in one comment but I can hope you get the idea if you get hot poly on you in volume you will only do it once I promise you, and it can spray like water and faster then you know, once it's on you your done like dinner and pulling it off immediately can make even more damage to your body wear a face shield and heat gloves when playing around real extruders especially under pressures and extreme heats, now back to keep making Awesome>
I feel I seen an ABS GF with 30% loading for the Diamondback to try I just can't remember whos but white Will have lead TI02 along with the GF I would think is the most abrasive for this nozzle to try
Can you use pressure advanced with marlin in orcaslicer
With a bit of luck I should finish my Senko print this weekend. All that remains is a few minor parts and I think I'm going to reprint her tail. I'm not happy with how I painted it. Question is......can I paint it better? I was hoping that if I switched colors mid print and had almost no purge and low infil (5%) that the color would fade. Well it did, but not like I thought. It immediately looks like a different color, but fades very quickly. Only a couple of layers. It looks more like bleeding than fading. I did use prusa slicer's cut tool with square dowels. But I ran into a problem where they are just slightly too long. I have a dremel. Maybe I can just sand them down a few layers. IT's already really close. 3d Gloop is working great.
Here's hoping it went well!! Glad gloop worked well!
@@3DMusketeers lol the umbrella was driving me nuts. It was looking good until.......layer shift. Then I'm like why am I printing a 2 color umbrella in 1 piece? Lets print the fabric and the pole separately. lol Now it won't print for shit! lol I flipped it around and now it's printing fine. And......I'm not happy with the paint job on her tail. So I'm going to reprint that as well. I'm taking most of the week off, so I should be done before the weekend.
I ran into an extrusion problem. After printing GF nylon, and then some TPU, after that my printer stopped extruding my normal petg. Cold pulls, needles nothing worked. Still extruded the nylon fine. Would just chew the filament.
Your podcast with pez liz had a bunch of other possible causes, most of which would be taken care of by just swapping whole hotend. The $20 swap solved the problem. Now i have the separate hotend for the nylon.
Thanks for covering the same things over and over again, makes it easy to find the answer.
@3d Musketeers Did I miss something, I expected to see my name up there ?
it apparently has not been updated.. I will get that remedied
@@3DMusketeers No problem, just keeping you on your toes, lol
For the correction if you don't have the ability to edit your video you could put a note at the top of the description.
awaiting the correction thing to be available, should be a week we hope!
Looks like PA to me too