Hi I am having trouble with my Westwood mower I bought from new 20 yrs ago. When I fire up it ticks over O/K but when I increase power it starts smoking and Starts missing and cuts out spark plug full of carbon? Thanks Tom Mixer.
Not really sure I haven’t had anything to do that. Wish I could help but I can’t think of what would be causing your problem. Take it to a local mower shop be the best thing to do.
Good tutorial and well explained, but for the final test, the spring must be mounted or not? I did a work like your on GY6 50cc, but the compression is always low, I reach 6bar and not 14/15bar... the engine start and work, but asking power it is not able to give it. I tested the seal with valves spring mounted and with water and gasoline, no drop.
Yes so you want the springs back together when you do your test. Water is too thick. You need gas or alcohol to check it really. So adjusting your valves correctly has to be done right to get a good compression reading on it but if it’s starting really easy I would say your compression is fine and valves are correctly adjusted or close enough.
@@littleskittle2234yum the scooter engine starts and works until I don't ask power to the engine... I bended the intake valve and broken the cam holder due to the crankshaft bearing broken, I replaced all what was broken, remounted all and lapped the valves, but when I tested it there was no power and checking the compression is really low than before (it was about the double). After I tested valves with gasoline and I've no drop, I changed even head gasket and piston with rings, but the compression is not changed and now I don't know what could be the compression issue. Thanks anyway.
I have a head that has sleeves for the valves . Those sleeves r loos and fall with the valve and it blocks the exhaust port ... I need to find a way to lock those sleeves where they should be ... thinking about taking it apart and ruff up the hole on the inside . Then force the sleeves back in
Video this video is a year old but why in the tar did you not clean up inside where the valve ports are going through all that trouble what a fuel flows
I did clean them I just didn’t video it. I’m actually working on a Kawasaki bayou at the moment I thought about doing a video on it but haven’t decided if I am yet.
I know it’s been 8 months since you posted this video, but I’m working on a 150 cc 4 valve scooter and it’s blowing oil out of the exhaust and I haven’t been able to find a video that shows how to take the head and timing chain off. If you can point me in the right direction I would greatly appreciate it
But to answer your question the valve guides need replaced or buy another head and probably wouldn’t hurt to put a new set of piston rings in just to cover all bases.
@@littleskittle2234yum so my wife picked up this 2007 150cc lambretta for $200. The guy said “it ran 2 weeks ago but it just quit and wouldn’t start” so I get it home and check for spark and fuel and it’s good but it looked like it was leaking oil from between the head and the cylinder so I pulled the exhaust and it looked like it was coming from the exhaust side and so I pulled the spark plug and looked down and it didn’t look oily on the piston. So I went ahead and pulled the covers off the engine and had to take the engine loose to get the intake off and pulled the head and noticed the piston had marks on it from the valves so I pulled the cylinder and the piston fell off in my hand and there is a huge scratch on the cylinder. So I decided to look for a master rebuild kit and I search and all I can find is 2 valve so I find a website and I input the vin and it tells me it’s build by adly but I’d doesn’t give me a model so I have no idea what type model of anything for this motor. I did look at adly’s website and I’m not going to pay $300 for a rebuild when I can buy a new motor for $275 lol anyway I’m just kinda lost and trying to figure out if I want to try and fix this turd or put it back to get her and try and get my money back out of it. But I could use a nice winter project so it’s still up in the air
It just says adly where you would normally find the engine number it only has ct150 and then what I am guessing is the run/batch number. I had to buy some specialty tools but I was able to take the engine apart minus the drive gears but I’ll probably have to take that apart next due to the oil seal replacement. But I got all of the broken piston parts out of the bottom of the motor now I’m trying to source a parts washer to clean this thing before I start on the oil seals. I did notice that they put a 2 valve piston in it but it has a 4 valve head. I found a replacement cylinder and 4 valve piston set on eBay for $129 so I might go that route but this thing has been a pain from day 1
So what’s your suggestion? Brass doesn’t hurt it at all so I’m curious what softer brush you would use because I get the impression you’ve never performed this job before.
@@littleskittle2234yum been using brass brushes like that for many years,they are the best for that (pre-) cleaning job; but most of the times i go straight to the emery paste and suction cup lol (using the rotary tool is highly NOT reccomended, by any factory manual, the alternating rotations of the suction cup,by hand or by a hand-held alternating tool, is the best way, factories say; i sometimes use the drill also,when the seats are really bad to cut time,then manually).
How do you reassemble the valve springs and keepers?
Great video
Thank you! Certainly appreciate it!
Hi
I am having trouble with my Westwood mower I bought from new 20 yrs ago.
When I fire up it ticks over O/K but when I increase power it starts smoking and
Starts missing and cuts out spark plug full of carbon?
Thanks Tom Mixer.
Not really sure I haven’t had anything to do that. Wish I could help but I can’t think of what would be causing your problem. Take it to a local mower shop be the best thing to do.
Good tutorial and well explained, but for the final test, the spring must be mounted or not? I did a work like your on GY6 50cc, but the compression is always low, I reach 6bar and not 14/15bar... the engine start and work, but asking power it is not able to give it. I tested the seal with valves spring mounted and with water and gasoline, no drop.
Yes so you want the springs back together when you do your test. Water is too thick. You need gas or alcohol to check it really. So adjusting your valves correctly has to be done right to get a good compression reading on it but if it’s starting really easy I would say your compression is fine and valves are correctly adjusted or close enough.
@@littleskittle2234yum the scooter engine starts and works until I don't ask power to the engine... I bended the intake valve and broken the cam holder due to the crankshaft bearing broken, I replaced all what was broken, remounted all and lapped the valves, but when I tested it there was no power and checking the compression is really low than before (it was about the double). After I tested valves with gasoline and I've no drop, I changed even head gasket and piston with rings, but the compression is not changed and now I don't know what could be the compression issue. Thanks anyway.
Double check your valve adjustments.
I have a head that has sleeves for the valves . Those sleeves r loos and fall with the valve and it blocks the exhaust port ... I need to find a way to lock those sleeves where they should be ... thinking about taking it apart and ruff up the hole on the inside . Then force the sleeves back in
Nice
th-cam.com/video/vnjRNz81MFs/w-d-xo.html
Video this video is a year old but why in the tar did you not clean up inside where the valve ports are going through all that trouble what a fuel flows
I did clean them I just didn’t video it. I’m actually working on a Kawasaki bayou at the moment I thought about doing a video on it but haven’t decided if I am yet.
Why did you not take the time it wouldn't take long to clean inside of them valve ports up going through all that trouble
I did actually I just didn’t video that part I just wanted to show the lapping process.
How did you put the keepers bk in?
I compressed the spring with my thumbs and dropped one keeper in at a time.
You should of put it in the vid. Bro...
I know it’s been 8 months since you posted this video, but I’m working on a 150 cc 4 valve scooter and it’s blowing oil out of the exhaust and I haven’t been able to find a video that shows how to take the head and timing chain off. If you can point me in the right direction I would greatly appreciate it
What kind of moped are you working on?
But to answer your question the valve guides need replaced or buy another head and probably wouldn’t hurt to put a new set of piston rings in just to cover all bases.
@@littleskittle2234yum so my wife picked up this 2007 150cc lambretta for $200. The guy said “it ran 2 weeks ago but it just quit and wouldn’t start” so I get it home and check for spark and fuel and it’s good but it looked like it was leaking oil from between the head and the cylinder so I pulled the exhaust and it looked like it was coming from the exhaust side and so I pulled the spark plug and looked down and it didn’t look oily on the piston. So I went ahead and pulled the covers off the engine and had to take the engine loose to get the intake off and pulled the head and noticed the piston had marks on it from the valves so I pulled the cylinder and the piston fell off in my hand and there is a huge scratch on the cylinder. So I decided to look for a master rebuild kit and I search and all I can find is 2 valve so I find a website and I input the vin and it tells me it’s build by adly but I’d doesn’t give me a model so I have no idea what type model of anything for this motor. I did look at adly’s website and I’m not going to pay $300 for a rebuild when I can buy a new motor for $275 lol anyway I’m just kinda lost and trying to figure out if I want to try and fix this turd or put it back to get her and try and get my money back out of it. But I could use a nice winter project so it’s still up in the air
@@Red-yn9fv What engine model does it come with?If it is a chinese engine there a parts everywhere and surely not for 300
It just says adly where you would normally find the engine number it only has ct150 and then what I am guessing is the run/batch number. I had to buy some specialty tools but I was able to take the engine apart minus the drive gears but I’ll probably have to take that apart next due to the oil seal replacement. But I got all of the broken piston parts out of the bottom of the motor now I’m trying to source a parts washer to clean this thing before I start on the oil seals. I did notice that they put a 2 valve piston in it but it has a 4 valve head. I found a replacement cylinder and 4 valve piston set on eBay for $129 so I might go that route but this thing has been a pain from day 1
Mine leak and alcohol does not come thru
If alcohol isn’t seeping past the valve seat then it would mean your valves are seating fine.
bro put the brass/bronze brush down please.
So what’s your suggestion? Brass doesn’t hurt it at all so I’m curious what softer brush you would use because I get the impression you’ve never performed this job before.
@@littleskittle2234yum been using brass brushes like that for many years,they are the best for that (pre-) cleaning job; but most of the times i go straight to the emery paste and suction cup lol
(using the rotary tool is highly NOT reccomended, by any factory manual, the alternating rotations of the suction cup,by hand or by a hand-held alternating tool, is the best way, factories say; i sometimes use the drill also,when the seats are really bad to cut time,then manually).
You sound like you just woke up drink some coffee
It’s just how I talk. I hope you liked the video tho or found it helpful.