My 94 F150 Has a problem with not wanting to restart after it has warmed up. So I need to locate the problem. This is the first video of this problem repair .
Same as mine. 1994 Ford F150 XLT 5.0 302 small block 2WD. Has been starting sometimes and sometimes not. Started one day, got around 2 corners, then it died. Cranked, wouldn't start. Replaced Starter. Cranks won't start. Fuel tank and fuel pump assembly is new (less than a year old). Never replaced fuel filter. Fuel injectors replaced, spark plugs, spark plug wires replaced, and fuel pressure regulator (less than a year old). MAF sensor, Idle control valve, ignition coil, and throttle Positioning sensor have been replaced. Alternator is about 2 years old. PCV valve, lower intake, temperature sensor, thermostat, and water pump all replaced (most are within a year to year & a half). Fuel pump engages, but sound doesn't last very long and someone told me that it could be the fuel filter because fuel stops. Through all of this.... system never threw any codes.
Check the codes. Check the water level. Get a Actron CP9690 code tester. It works on OBDI. Run KOEO codes. You can erase memory codes. Fully charge the battery. Warm the engine and check KOER codes. Disconnect the EGR hose and plug it to see if it smoothes out. If there's vacuum at the EGR at idle, replace the charcoal canister purge valve. If the engine throws out black smoke going up a hill, replace the MAP sensor. Use a timing light to check spark at the wires. Check the distributor cap for arcing. Check for 2 terminals next to each other not firing, meaning the cap. Clean the MAF sensor bore with MAF sensor cleaner. Put fuel injection cleaner in the tank.
My 1993 Ford F-150 would crank, but not start. Replaced coil, distributor, and computer ( twice ), truck would start & run for @ 30 minutes, then die, and back to the beginning. Suggestions ?
@@xzqzq probably not. These trucks use a signal from coolant temp to regulate fuel delivery. It sounds like it may be doing what my 94 was doing. Will run till it warms up thrn choke out and dies and wontvrun till compleatly cool again. Once I replaced the temp sensor everything worked fine.
Did you fix it ??.if not try holding the gas pedal down cutting the fuel off to the motor .mine did the same thing and it ended up being the computer was telling it to dump fuel into the motor as it was saying it was always at a cold start .would start easy when sitting for a day or two but when it gets warm crank no start .sounds like the same thing .even running rough
Rob Vincent the problem with my 94 ended up being coolant temperature sensor!! If your truck is doing the same thing I suggest you look into replacing the coolant temperature sensor!! It fixed my truck!
Get a Actron CP9690 code tester. It has Code connect to diagnose codes. Check fuel pressure and leakdown. Check the plugs and wires and cap. Check the MAF sensor to see if the bore is warped. EBAY has the CP9690. Replace the ignition module if it's old. If your truck has a distributor, replace it, don't replace the stator. A code tester will call it the PIP sensor. There isn't a code for the module. Get an oil pump primer shaft to lineup the distributor to the oil pump shaft.
Mine would not start and ran shitty when it did. My mechanic pulled a bunch of vacuum lines and plugged them. Starts great noe except when the engine is hot it won't start. Have to wait an hour and then it starts and runs fine. Changed coolant temp. sensor and it still won't start.
@Jeremy Bowers Yes. I was getting vapor lock. I changed the fuel injectors now it starts all the time. I did several other things for preventative maintenance. Injector somewhere leaked which allowed air to fill fuel line causing vapor lock.
Hey ! My dads truck which is a 96 f-150 was idling about the same. Change your TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) and you Idle Air Control Valve that should solve you idle issues.
You prolly dont give a shit but if you guys are bored like me atm then you can watch all the new series on instaflixxer. Have been streaming with my girlfriend for the last few months :)
Ug, mine was doing the exact same thing. Good spark, plenty of fuel, good injector pulse, you name it. Ran terrible only once per day, then did the no start. Long story short, ECU, ignition module, coil, MAP sensor, and PCV valve re-route. Ignition timing was also off. After the timing was set back to 10 degrees, it runs but idles bad. Checked the timing chain, and 10 degrees of play at the crank until the distributor turns. Check that timing chain!
Same as mine. 1994 Ford F150 XLT 5.0 302 small block 2WD. Has been starting sometimes and sometimes not. Started one day, got around 2 corners, then it died. Cranked, wouldn't start. Replaced Starter. Cranks won't start. Fuel tank and fuel pump assembly is new (less than a year old). Never replaced fuel filter. Fuel injectors replaced, spark plugs, spark plug wires replaced, and fuel pressure regulator (less than a year old). MAF sensor, Idle control valve, ignition coil, and throttle Positioning sensor have been replaced. Alternator is about 2 years old. PCV valve, lower intake, temperature sensor, thermostat, and water pump all replaced (most are within a year to year & a half). Fuel pump engages, but sound doesn't last very long and someone told me that it could be the fuel filter because fuel stops. Through all of this.... system never threw any codes.
Thank you 👍
Check the codes. Check the water level. Get a Actron CP9690 code tester. It works on OBDI. Run KOEO codes. You can erase memory codes. Fully charge the battery. Warm the engine and check KOER codes. Disconnect the EGR hose and plug it to see if it smoothes out. If there's vacuum at the EGR at idle, replace the charcoal canister purge valve. If the engine throws out black smoke going up a hill, replace the MAP sensor. Use a timing light to check spark at the wires. Check the distributor cap for arcing. Check for 2 terminals next to each other not firing, meaning the cap. Clean the MAF sensor bore with MAF sensor cleaner. Put fuel injection cleaner in the tank.
My 1993 Ford F-150 would crank, but not start. Replaced coil, distributor, and computer ( twice ), truck would start & run for @ 30 minutes, then die, and back to the beginning. Suggestions ?
Coolant temp sensor. Ford is natorious for this
@@bmaiceman Thanks...would I need to replace the computer, again ?
@@xzqzq probably not. These trucks use a signal from coolant temp to regulate fuel delivery. It sounds like it may be doing what my 94 was doing. Will run till it warms up thrn choke out and dies and wontvrun till compleatly cool again. Once I replaced the temp sensor everything worked fine.
@@bmaiceman Thanks very much for the help !!
@@xzqzq im glad my little video may help anyone. I was tearing my hair out over the issue before I got it solved. So my headach can help others. 👍
Did you fix it ??.if not try holding the gas pedal down cutting the fuel off to the motor .mine did the same thing and it ended up being the computer was telling it to dump fuel into the motor as it was saying it was always at a cold start .would start easy when sitting for a day or two but when it gets warm crank no start .sounds like the same thing .even running rough
My wife’s froze the same way not auto replaced battery idk if it’s the starter motor or what
My gpas 1995 F-150 is doing the same thing , any ideas , he's in Florida until March 18 , all comments will be looked into, Thank You
Rob Vincent the problem with my 94 ended up being coolant temperature sensor!! If your truck is doing the same thing I suggest you look into replacing the coolant temperature sensor!! It fixed my truck!
Get a Actron CP9690 code tester. It has Code connect to diagnose codes. Check fuel pressure and leakdown. Check the plugs and wires and cap. Check the MAF sensor to see if the bore is warped. EBAY has the CP9690. Replace the ignition module if it's old. If your truck has a distributor, replace it, don't replace the stator. A code tester will call it the PIP sensor. There isn't a code for the module. Get an oil pump primer shaft to lineup the distributor to the oil pump shaft.
Mine would not start and ran shitty when it did. My mechanic pulled a bunch of vacuum lines and plugged them. Starts great noe except when the engine is hot it won't start. Have to wait an hour and then it starts and runs fine. Changed coolant temp. sensor and it still won't start.
Did anyone figure this out...i think its the ECU.
@Jeremy Bowers Yes. I was getting vapor lock. I changed the fuel injectors now it starts all the time. I did several other things for preventative maintenance. Injector somewhere leaked which allowed air to fill fuel line causing vapor lock.
My new-to-me 1990 ford f250 with the 351w has issues with hot starting too except there is also a voltage drop somewhere
I have a 1989 f250 460 did you ever figure it out
Hey ! My dads truck which is a 96 f-150 was idling about the same. Change your TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) and you Idle Air Control Valve that should solve you idle issues.
You prolly dont give a shit but if you guys are bored like me atm then you can watch all the new series on instaflixxer. Have been streaming with my girlfriend for the last few months :)
@Austin Blake yup, have been watching on instaflixxer for years myself :)
@Austin Blake definitely, been using instaflixxer for since december myself :)
check your fuel pump
Gotta new fuel pump
bad fuel filter make fuel pump over heat & shut down when fuel pump cools down it will restart maybe? anyway that is what happen on my dodge
you ever find out what was wrong with your truck
Coolant temperature sensor
sounds like you got a sensor not working right when hot
Did you try putting a Chevy in it?
Make sure its plugged up
Holy shit it worked!!!
There is a vacuum hose on the top of the motor I just had the same problem out of mine
just sale your truck stick to your car
sounds like its the rear differential to me
You obviously know nothing about engines. With the symptoms he has the only thing it can be is the muffler bearing.
I have a 1990 F-150 302 my runs like a champ.
Proud of you here's a cookie
@@thejadashow1039 I bet your parents are proud of your 10 views in a week long video on your channel
i have a `89 straight 6
Sure, rub it in !!
Ug, mine was doing the exact same thing. Good spark, plenty of fuel, good injector pulse, you name it. Ran terrible only once per day, then did the no start.
Long story short, ECU, ignition module, coil, MAP sensor, and PCV valve re-route. Ignition timing was also off. After the timing was set back to 10 degrees, it runs but idles bad.
Checked the timing chain, and 10 degrees of play at the crank until the distributor turns. Check that timing chain!
Tooooooo muccccch talking