Out of every repair video I've ever had to suffer thru watching... I am SOOOOOO PLEASED & wish to say... THIS IS THE BEST REPAIR VIDEO IVE EVER WATCHED!!!! EVA EVA EVA!!!!! A++++++!!!!! Bout time... FYI: People, if you decide to make a repair video, PLEASE use this as a format!!!! THANKS SOOOO MUCH!!!! SIMPLISTIC & TO THE FREAKING POINT!!!!
Just a heads up for those wanting to do this themselves. You definitely need to loosen all the motor mounts, including the front and the rear, to be able to lift it high enough to get the side ones out. Also, the rear bolt of the control arm is not as easy as a cut an edit in the video. Becareful not to pull the drive shafts out when taking the lower ball joint off and trying to put the new control arm into position.
By far the best video on this repair. I was able to do this super easy just following these instructions! Very easy and even easier if you have a lift to work on it like you did, but even with jack stands you can get this done easy, just follow the example here. Excellent video and thank you for posting this!!
On 1:47 you put a note not to pull the knuckle too far. What happens if the axel separates? And if it happens how do you fix it?? I followed you video and only replaced the rear bushings pressing new Energy Suspension polyurethane bushings in and had a hard time getting them into position at the knuckle and might have ended up pulling too far. Thanks for the great thorough video.
If the axle inner joint pops out of place and the inner boot is still in place, you can push in the whole assembly from the kuckle end as you slightly turn as you push and the inner joint should fall in to place.
This looks way better than removing the sway bar and steering rack in the other videos I was watching. Hope this will work better. I got an 05 AWD 330.
Thanks. It should be the same concept for your 05 AWD. Worst case you may need to loosen the subframe bolts a bit. Let me know how it goes I appreciate it!
We were just looking to see why lower control arms booked at over 11hrs.... They could have run this two bolts from the bottom and saved a lot of hassle... but oh no! Engineer's and bean counters can't be friends... Thanks for the detailed video.
Its 11 hrs because techniclly, by the book, the subframe needs to be removed. Engineers can be a mechanics worst enemy at times but hopefully this video helps you out. Thanks for watching don't forget to subscribe to see more videos like this.
@@harborareatech310 I know the expectations and the realities of that. I went a earned my engineering degree, then started this business. I just shake my head so often. So many simple, almost no cost, corrections that would make life easier and improve customer satisfaction with lower cost of ownership rates. The main manufacturers don't care about repeat business as much as we think they do.
Thanks! Honestly this applies to most Toyota/Lexus Front wheel drive models. In the case of your 2008 RX350 the process is the same. Don't forget to like and subscribe, if you haven't already, for similar videos!
Really a helpful video. Lexus shop just quoted 12.5 hours, at their very high shop rate, for this repair. We have found another shop, but can you tell us what is a reasonable number of hours to complete this work? Thanks for making this video and for your answers to these questions!
Thanks for watching. Shops will charge different rates but the book calls for anywhere from 7-8 hours not counting the wheel alignment, but a professional mechanic should be able to complete the job in less than half of what the book asks for. Don't forget to like and subscribe (if you havent) to see more videos like this.
the book time in our shop also 12.5, as it includes engine removal and install. On my first time took my about 3 hours, ever since then usually doesn’t take more than 2 hours
@@prattacaster the mechanics pay for those tools themselves. They earn the money to buy those tools by doing jobs the long “hard way” until they can afford better tools/specialty tools. If you don’t want to pay someone who is skilled and bought the proper tools by busting their ass for years, do it yourself.
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This mostly works on 2009-2015 2WD Venza. On the passenger side, you will need to remove the three bolts to the motor mount that go into the engine block to remove the motor mount. On the driver side you will need to shave off the top of the stud from the motor mount and loosen the front motor mount bolts on the top and the three on the bottom to give a little more room. When you shave off the top of the stud, do it with the nut still in place so it will dress the threads when you take the nut off, then bevel the end of the stud on a grinder or with a file and a wire wheel or brush. Passenger side is much easier when you remove the motor mount from the engine block. Driver side you MUST shave the top of that stud or it is not coming out - there is not enough clearance going up to get it out. After you are done, double check the breather hoses and airbox. Thanks for the write up - great starting point for similar vehicle (Venza).
Thank you so much For your honesty dealer Told me it was gonna be $2700 I laughed in their face and hung Up the phone. While doing this job do you recommend replacing any other items that are easy to get to? I was thinking to change out the sway bar Bushings
No problem. Definately a good time to change any components that are easy to get to during the service. Ball joints, sway bar links, motor mounts or cv Axle just to name a few.
Thanks for this video man you're a lifesaver! I almost paid 2k to get this done because of the subframe method. Looks like you removed the engine mount on one side and trans mount to do the other side. Can you tell me which side is which? I imagine trans mount is on the driver side but I've never been under this car for as long as I've had it lol.
Was wondering if the aftermarket LCA’s like MOOG and MEVOTECH are better ride and quality for replacement or do we need to go OEM with these lower control arms? Also, at 113k miles … should I replace bushings, stabilizer bar, trailing arm as well? My drive is quite rough so I’ll be changing out rear shocks because they are slightly leaking too. Found an independent mechanic who will charge me $685 for shocks and LCA’s as long as I supply my own parts …just trying to figure out which part brands are best ( I prefer higher quality that will last and I don’t have to do work twice) . Will be keeping this car for 5+ years
Oe parts are best for the RX. When doing the LCA it's a good time to address the lower ball joints and steering linkages if they have excessive play or the boots are torn. The trailing arms are in the rear of the vehicle. If you hear any noise or symptoms from the rear of the vehicle, further attention is suggested.
Shouldn't you raise the wheel up to ride height before tightening the bolts on the control arm to prevent premature wear of the bushing? Or is this not required?
You're correct . Final tightening on any suspension component repair should be performed on level surface. I perform the final adjustments when performing the alignment. Thanks for watching don't forget to subscribe, if you haven't already, to see more similar videos like this.
@@harborareatech310 how do you fit under the car or do you simply raise the control arm? Also, one of the bolts for the control arm is under a mount so clearly that cannot be tightened after the fact, or am i missing something?
I had this service performed on my 18 yr old Lexus RX330, done by non-dealership mechanic that specialized in Lexus for less than half the price the dealership quoted. I'm please with their work. The video is great at showing how to replace, but now that I see it, I am curious as to WHY they need to be replaced?
RX330 are one of the most reliable SUVS. But yes, dealerships are expensive and even independent shops can be pricy for this service. Thats a good question. The main reason the lower control arms are replaced is because the bushing tear. This causes excessive play in the front suspension which can lead to driveability issues, alignment issues and tire wear.
The bushing goes out.... you could remove it & take it somewhere for them to press a new one in... however, the complete control arm isn't costly at all🤷♀️
hey so i'm trying to replace all 5 engine mounts with OEM on my rx350 fwd is this the correct way to do it? 1) loosen the front mount, passenger mount and driver mount 2) loosen the rear mount 3) i'm not sure which side to place the jack to raise the engine. 4) take mounts off and replace them. I'm not sure how to replace the "rear" mount. Once I remove the bottom two nuts is it easy to change?
This video is for the replacement of the front lower control trol arms. However, i do show the removal of the side motor and transmission mounts. All the other motor mounts are pretty straightforward, as you described, except for the front motor mount, that one is a little more tight for removal. I jack up the engine from the oil pan and the the trans using a wooden block, as you can see in the video.
@ Harbor Area Tech, great video helped me out %100. Yes lifting motor and transmission is definitely the way to perform the job. After watching this video fully and looking at the job at hand it all made sense. Thank you for a great video. Cheers from Australia.
I want to replace the Ball Joints, also. How do youse loosen the BJ Stud nut? Standard 19Mm Box Wrench is too thick, to fit between the BJ and outer CV Joint. I could grind down a 19MM , SIX point, box end wrench, but I think it might round off the nut. Normally (if there was room) a six point impact socket and 1/2" Drive pneumatic gun would snap the nut loose, before it rounds off. Thanks.
Actually.... I'm not sure it is my lower control arm. I'm having a rattle in the front right when going over rough roads. Someone recommended the ball joints, figured that was a much easier attempt but didn't work. Other ideas... Strut, strut bushing at the top, sway bar, sway bar linkage, something other than suspension related like a brick in my fender (joking) or a frame rattle? Other ideas? How can I confirm it is the LCA before embarking on this change?
Hey thanks for watchingthe video! The best way to see if your lower control arm bushings are bad is by removing the tire and visually inspecting the bushing. You will be able to see how bad the bushing is cracked or torn. It would usually cause alignment issues, noises especially when braking. You would be able to see the tire shift as you brake.
@@harborareatech310 thanks for the help. The car drives and brakes perfectly straight. Looking at the control arm bushings, they are dry rotted like one would expect. Since it drives and brakes straight, should I discount the idea that the noise is the lower control arm, that it likely isn't the LCA?
Has anyone reading ever installed Moog lower control arms on a Lexus or Toyota. Given the Lexus arms run about $680 a pair w/o ball joints and Moog (Taiwan made) run $120 a pair with BJ’s …is Moog worth the gamble. I sold Moog decades ago, when all their products were USA made and TOP quality, but it is a different world now. Thanks.
I've worked on vehicles (toyota and lexus) that have had aftermarket lower control arms installed, including moog part. The quality on the oem arms are much better. The aftermarket parts are hit or miss.
ANYONE here used Moog control arms on Toyota/Lexus? How was the quality? How long have they lasted?
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Just did mine with Dorman. Too soon to say, but I have had good success with Dorman and Moog in the past. Toyota may well be better, but only you can say whether it is worth the risk.
I did this job on my 2013 Lexus rx f sport AWD and now I have a AWD check engine light I’m not sure what I missed the front axles were in. Does someone know
Awesome video with the details of bolts/nuts sized... just wondering the OEM part # for Front Lower control arms and also Lower ball joints ? I would prefer the Toyota part # that comparable to 2013 Lexus RX350 model since Lexus will charge for extra money just for a name brand. Thank you so much !
OE is best for this application. That's a good question. I am not sure if the Lexus part numbers will correspond to to a Toyota part. Check with your local parts department for part numbers and then compare with toyota, and let me know I would appreciate the info!
Here is the 2013 Lexus RX350 part # 48068-0E050 for RH lower arm control (passenger side) and part # 48069-0E050 for LH (driver side). @@harborareatech310
For the 2004 RX330 and the 2005 there is not a rear motor mount. There's only the two Side motor mounts and the front motor mount. I used a 12 ton bottle jack & wood to jack up motor to get driver side motor mount out. Changing LH lower control arm ..bushing is shot. Donor car had 70k miles...using a salvage OEM arm. Not trusting any parts store off shelf brand of any kind. Lucky to get 2 years out of those aftermarket crap
The video shown is for FWD RX350. The RX330 motor mounts are a bit different.Motor mounts vary from vehicle to vehicle, depending on the engine and drivetrain, but it is generally the same concept For toyota / lexus non RWD vehicles
Great video, but what a lot of work , for LCA's! Thanks Toyota. If the ball joint is still good, like on my 2006 Lexus RX330 AWD , can one unbolt the BJ from the arm, and removed just the arm? To save work and time. Anyone done it?
If you look closely at the video, I leave the ball joint connected to the steering knuckle. Just unbolt the nuts and bolt connected to the lower control arm to separate.
recently had this done! on my own 2011 Lexus RX350. but still have a little play and knocking sound on my steering wheel that find really annoying! will someone Please!!! help/give advice? to solve my problem. Thank you!
@@harborareatech310 turning! while driving on low speeds! or just parked engine off I move the wheel slightly from side to say and hear a clicking knock?.. PS Thank you! for replying to me!🤕
@@chuyocaca4153 common things to wear on those are the struts/mounts, ball joints, and cv axles. The axles will make a clicking noise that will change with speed while turning. I would jack up the front tires and check for either side to side play or up and down play from the tires
@@harborareatech310 all of the above! not when driving at highway speeds mind you but as soon as I hit the streets! am reminded and annoyed and it's driving me bunkers.
![[Watch Party] RoV Pro League 2024 Winter | with Moowan ( Bacon Time Vs Talon )](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/CCEDhu6dPN8/mqdefault.jpg)
Great video! This is what I was looking for!!!
Out of every repair video I've ever had to suffer thru watching... I am SOOOOOO PLEASED & wish to say...
THIS IS THE BEST REPAIR VIDEO IVE EVER WATCHED!!!! EVA EVA EVA!!!!! A++++++!!!!!
Bout time...
FYI: People, if you decide to make a repair video, PLEASE use this as a format!!!!
THANKS SOOOO MUCH!!!!
SIMPLISTIC & TO THE FREAKING POINT!!!!
Thank you!
Just a heads up for those wanting to do this themselves. You definitely need to loosen all the motor mounts, including the front and the rear, to be able to lift it high enough to get the side ones out. Also, the rear bolt of the control arm is not as easy as a cut an edit in the video. Becareful not to pull the drive shafts out when taking the lower ball joint off and trying to put the new control arm into position.
By far the best video on this repair. I was able to do this super easy just following these instructions! Very easy and even easier if you have a lift to work on it like you did, but even with jack stands you can get this done easy, just follow the example here. Excellent video and thank you for posting this!!
Went to the tire center, they said to change control arms parts & labor will cost me $4,300. That's insane.
It be like that. Hopefully this video helps you save a little
Wow! This vid just made my day. You've certainly earned my like and subscription. Thank you Sir!
Thanks!
On 1:47 you put a note not to pull the knuckle too far. What happens if the axel separates? And if it happens how do you fix it??
I followed you video and only replaced the rear bushings pressing new Energy Suspension polyurethane bushings in and had a hard time getting them into position at the knuckle and might have ended up pulling too far.
Thanks for the great thorough video.
If the axle inner joint pops out of place and the inner boot is still in place, you can push in the whole assembly from the kuckle end as you slightly turn as you push and the inner joint should fall in to place.
@@harborareatech310 done! Thank you so much.
This looks way better than removing the sway bar and steering rack in the other videos I was watching. Hope this will work better. I got an 05 AWD 330.
Thanks. It should be the same concept for your 05 AWD. Worst case you may need to loosen the subframe bolts a bit. Let me know how it goes I appreciate it!
This is amazing! Thank you!!
Nice to see him torque the wheel lugs.
We were just looking to see why lower control arms booked at over 11hrs....
They could have run this two bolts from the bottom and saved a lot of hassle... but oh no! Engineer's and bean counters can't be friends...
Thanks for the detailed video.
Its 11 hrs because techniclly, by the book, the subframe needs to be removed. Engineers can be a mechanics worst enemy at times but hopefully this video helps you out. Thanks for watching don't forget to subscribe to see more videos like this.
@@harborareatech310 I know the expectations and the realities of that. I went a earned my engineering degree, then started this business. I just shake my head so often. So many simple, almost no cost, corrections that would make life easier and improve customer satisfaction with lower cost of ownership rates. The main manufacturers don't care about repeat business as much as we think they do.
awesome video!!! what model years of the rx350 does this process work with, I have a 2008 and was wondering if I can follow these same steps
Thanks! Honestly this applies to most Toyota/Lexus Front wheel drive models. In the case of your 2008 RX350 the process is the same. Don't forget to like and subscribe, if you haven't already, for similar videos!
Really a helpful video. Lexus shop just quoted 12.5 hours, at their very high shop rate, for this repair. We have found another shop, but can you tell us what is a reasonable number of hours to complete this work? Thanks for making this video and for your answers to these questions!
Thanks for watching. Shops will charge different rates but the book calls for anywhere from 7-8 hours not counting the wheel alignment, but a professional mechanic should be able to complete the job in less than half of what the book asks for. Don't forget to like and subscribe (if you havent) to see more videos like this.
If this really is a 12 hour job, why is it an 18 minute video?
the book time in our shop also 12.5, as it includes engine removal and install. On my first time took my about 3 hours, ever since then usually doesn’t take more than 2 hours
@@user-xq3gv1vi3dSounds like the book needs update to compensate for modern tools, bastard mechanics...
@@prattacaster the mechanics pay for those tools themselves. They earn the money to buy those tools by doing jobs the long “hard way” until they can afford better tools/specialty tools. If you don’t want to pay someone who is skilled and bought the proper tools by busting their ass for years, do it yourself.
This mostly works on 2009-2015 2WD Venza. On the passenger side, you will need to remove the three bolts to the motor mount that go into the engine block to remove the motor mount. On the driver side you will need to shave off the top of the stud from the motor mount and loosen the front motor mount bolts on the top and the three on the bottom to give a little more room. When you shave off the top of the stud, do it with the nut still in place so it will dress the threads when you take the nut off, then bevel the end of the stud on a grinder or with a file and a wire wheel or brush. Passenger side is much easier when you remove the motor mount from the engine block. Driver side you MUST shave the top of that stud or it is not coming out - there is not enough clearance going up to get it out. After you are done, double check the breather hoses and airbox. Thanks for the write up - great starting point for similar vehicle (Venza).
Thanks for the feedback for anybody who is working on a Toyota Venza
This is what I wanted! I have a question. Can I replace the front engine mount from the bottom?? I mean is there enough space to pull out old mount?
It's tight, but it is doable
Great video! Would you know how different the job is for the awd version? Anything different with the procedure of lifting the motor? Thanks!!
Same procedure
Thanks...im doing this procedure Today!!!
Great !
Thank you so much For your honesty dealer Told me it was gonna be $2700 I laughed in their face and hung Up the phone. While doing this job do you recommend replacing any other items that are easy to get to? I was thinking to change out the sway bar Bushings
No problem. Definately a good time to change any components that are easy to get to during the service. Ball joints, sway bar links, motor mounts or cv Axle just to name a few.
What else would go into this job on A 20006 RX400h
@@wessamahmad5686 same concept as the video. Just don't forget your vehicle aligned afterwards
Great video. Would the procedure be the same for 2004 Rx330? Both control arm bushings are worn out.
Thank you. If I do remember correctly it is the same concept for your RX330 . Let me know if you have any other questions.
Thanks for this video man you're a lifesaver!
I almost paid 2k to get this done because of the subframe method. Looks like you removed the engine mount on one side and trans mount to do the other side. Can you tell me which side is which? I imagine trans mount is on the driver side but I've never been under this car for as long as I've had it lol.
No problem glad it helped.
Trans mount is on the driver side and engine mount on the passenger side.
Great video, thank you. Would it be the same procedure for 2010 Lexus RX 450 h ? Many thanks!
Thanks!.Same procedure except there is less room to remove the top motor mount bolts.
@Vmlc L. yes sir . Good luck to you. If you have any more questions feel free to ask
Excellent good job 🙏🌹
Thank you
Was wondering if the aftermarket LCA’s like MOOG and MEVOTECH are better ride and quality for replacement or do we need to go OEM with these lower control arms? Also, at 113k miles … should I replace bushings, stabilizer bar, trailing arm as well? My drive is quite rough so I’ll be changing out rear shocks because they are slightly leaking too. Found an independent mechanic who will charge me $685 for shocks and LCA’s as long as I supply my own parts …just trying to figure out which part brands are best ( I prefer higher quality that will last and I don’t have to do work twice) . Will be keeping this car for 5+ years
Oe parts are best for the RX. When doing the LCA it's a good time to address the lower ball joints and steering linkages if they have excessive play or the boots are torn. The trailing arms are in the rear of the vehicle. If you hear any noise or symptoms from the rear of the vehicle, further attention is suggested.
Thanks dudes
Yor welcome
Shouldn't you raise the wheel up to ride height before tightening the bolts on the control arm to prevent premature wear of the bushing? Or is this not required?
You're correct . Final tightening on any suspension component repair should be performed on level surface. I perform the final adjustments when performing the alignment. Thanks for watching don't forget to subscribe, if you haven't already, to see more similar videos like this.
@@harborareatech310 how do you fit under the car or do you simply raise the control arm? Also, one of the bolts for the control arm is under a mount so clearly that cannot be tightened after the fact, or am i missing something?
I had this service performed on my 18 yr old Lexus RX330, done by non-dealership mechanic that specialized in Lexus for less than half the price the dealership quoted. I'm please with their work. The video is great at showing how to replace, but now that I see it, I am curious as to WHY they need to be replaced?
RX330 are one of the most reliable SUVS. But yes, dealerships are expensive and even independent shops can be pricy for this service.
Thats a good question. The main reason the lower control arms are replaced is because the bushing tear. This causes excessive play in the front suspension which can lead to driveability issues, alignment issues and tire wear.
@@harborareatech310 many thanks.
The bushing goes out.... you could remove it & take it somewhere for them to press a new one in... however, the complete control arm isn't costly at all🤷♀️
Gravy job that pays 9 hours 👏👏💪
You already know
Its look easy job when it raised.and u have conplete tools
@matperez1168 I do them on the ground and it's still a gravy job.
@@justforkiks29 ok ill try mine
Bro did you u loosen the top engine mount as well??? How many pcs of engjne mount on top?
@matperez1168 If you aren't sure don't touch it. You'll end up breaking something.
Fantastic video, no BS just clear instruction. Just picked up an 04 RX 330. Should be similar, no? Anyway, new subscriber.
Thanks, I appreciate it...and yes, it's the same process!!
hey so i'm trying to replace all 5 engine mounts with OEM on my rx350 fwd is this the correct way to do it?
1) loosen the front mount, passenger mount and driver mount
2) loosen the rear mount
3) i'm not sure which side to place the jack to raise the engine.
4) take mounts off and replace them.
I'm not sure how to replace the "rear" mount. Once I remove the bottom two nuts is it easy to change?
This video is for the replacement of the front lower control trol arms. However, i do show the removal of the side motor and transmission mounts. All the other motor mounts are pretty straightforward, as you described, except for the front motor mount, that one is a little more tight for removal. I jack up the engine from the oil pan and the the trans using a wooden block, as you can see in the video.
Great video anything else someone should consider replacing while they are doing the control arms?
I always inspect the motor mounts i remove and the front lower ball joints
Can you perform the change over without lifting motor and transmission?
Good question on these particular models it is possible but a much more difficult process which would require removal of the sub-frame
@ Harbor Area Tech, great video helped me out %100.
Yes lifting motor and transmission is definitely the way to perform the job.
After watching this video fully and looking at the job at hand it all made sense.
Thank you for a great video.
Cheers from Australia.
Glad it helped. Don't forget to subscribe for future videos like this. Thanks from Los Angeles!
Thank you for the video.... Not looking forward to doing this as a diy'er!
Hey Mark it's not as bad as it seems. Will save a lot of $$ in your wallet.
I want to replace the Ball Joints, also. How do youse loosen the BJ Stud nut? Standard 19Mm Box Wrench is too thick, to fit between the BJ and outer CV Joint. I could grind down a 19MM , SIX point, box end wrench, but I think it might round off the nut. Normally (if there was room) a six point impact socket and 1/2" Drive pneumatic gun would snap the nut loose, before it rounds off. Thanks.
I spray with penetrant oil, remove the cotter pin, then use a grinded down box end 19mm wrench
I guess you give the wrench a "Smack" with a hammer, to break the nut loose? MC @@harborareatech310
Hi,is this same procedure for 2010 es350?
Yes this procedure applies for your 2010 ES350 as well.
2017 same process?
No, those are easier. You dont have motor mounts in the way.
Do you have the torque specs for all the nuts and bolts on the mounts and control arm?
Thanks!
Actually.... I'm not sure it is my lower control arm. I'm having a rattle in the front right when going over rough roads. Someone recommended the ball joints, figured that was a much easier attempt but didn't work.
Other ideas... Strut, strut bushing at the top, sway bar, sway bar linkage, something other than suspension related like a brick in my fender (joking) or a frame rattle? Other ideas? How can I confirm it is the LCA before embarking on this change?
Hey thanks for watchingthe video! The best way to see if your lower control arm bushings are bad is by removing the tire and visually inspecting the bushing. You will be able to see how bad the bushing is cracked or torn. It would usually cause alignment issues, noises especially when braking. You would be able to see the tire shift as you brake.
@@harborareatech310 thanks for the help. The car drives and brakes perfectly straight. Looking at the control arm bushings, they are dry rotted like one would expect.
Since it drives and brakes straight, should I discount the idea that the noise is the lower control arm, that it likely isn't the LCA?
Has anyone reading ever installed Moog lower control arms on a Lexus or Toyota. Given the Lexus arms run about $680 a pair w/o ball joints and Moog (Taiwan made) run $120 a pair with BJ’s …is Moog worth the gamble. I sold Moog decades ago, when all their products were USA made and TOP quality, but it is a different world now. Thanks.
I've worked on vehicles (toyota and lexus) that have had aftermarket lower control arms installed, including moog part. The quality on the oem arms are much better. The aftermarket parts are hit or miss.
ANYONE here used Moog control arms on Toyota/Lexus? How was the quality? How long have they lasted?
Just did mine with Dorman. Too soon to say, but I have had good success with Dorman and Moog in the past. Toyota may well be better, but only you can say whether it is worth the risk.
I did this job on my 2013 Lexus rx f sport AWD and now I have a AWD check engine light I’m not sure what I missed the front axles were in. Does someone know
Is it a awd light or check engine light
Nice Job 🤙 is the Same for 450h ?
Thank you. Yes, same process. The only difference is i remove the side bolt of the upper dog bone mount
@@harborareatech310 thx for the answer , how much nm torgue you Use for the Bolts?
Awesome video with the details of bolts/nuts sized... just wondering the OEM part # for Front Lower control arms and also Lower ball joints ? I would prefer the Toyota part # that comparable to 2013 Lexus RX350 model since Lexus will charge for extra money just for a name brand. Thank you so much !
OE is best for this application.
That's a good question. I am not sure if the Lexus part numbers will correspond to to a Toyota part. Check with your local parts department for part numbers and then compare with toyota, and let me know I would appreciate the info!
Here is the 2013 Lexus RX350 part # 48068-0E050 for RH lower arm control (passenger side) and part # 48069-0E050 for LH (driver side). @@harborareatech310
Also here is the lower ball joints part # 43330K for passenger side and # 43340A for driver side. Hope this help.
@@tomn5413 thanks!! Did it match up with Toyotas parts
@@harborareatech310 Yes, it match with Toyota Highlander 2013 V6 and prices less than lexus ~ $13 for lower control arms.
We need to raise one side at the time right sir?
Good question. The way I do it is one side at a time.
For the 2004 RX330 and the 2005 there is not a rear motor mount. There's only the two Side motor mounts and the front motor mount. I used a 12 ton bottle jack & wood to jack up motor to get driver side motor mount out. Changing LH lower control arm ..bushing is shot. Donor car had 70k miles...using a salvage OEM arm. Not trusting any parts store off shelf brand of any kind. Lucky to get 2 years out of those aftermarket crap
Thank you, glad it helped!
2004 RX330...Found the front mounts and the side mounts. Can not find the rear mounts....
The video shown is for FWD RX350. The RX330 motor mounts are a bit different.Motor mounts vary from vehicle to vehicle, depending on the engine and drivetrain, but it is generally the same concept For toyota / lexus non RWD vehicles
Great video, but what a lot of work , for LCA's! Thanks Toyota. If the ball joint is still good, like on my 2006 Lexus RX330 AWD , can one unbolt the BJ from the arm, and removed just the arm? To save work and time. Anyone done it?
If you look closely at the video, I leave the ball joint connected to the steering knuckle. Just unbolt the nuts and bolt connected to the lower control arm to separate.
recently had this done! on my own 2011 Lexus RX350. but still have a little play and knocking sound on my steering wheel that find really annoying! will someone Please!!! help/give advice? to solve my problem. Thank you!
When does it make the sound? While driving, turning, low or high speeds, over bumps
@@harborareatech310 turning! while driving on low speeds! or just parked engine off I move the wheel slightly from side to say and hear a clicking knock?.. PS Thank you! for replying to me!🤕
@@chuyocaca4153 common things to wear on those are the struts/mounts, ball joints, and cv axles. The axles will make a clicking noise that will change with speed while turning. I would jack up the front tires and check for either side to side play or up and down play from the tires
@@harborareatech310 will also do! thanks!~
@@harborareatech310 all of the above! not when driving at highway speeds mind you but as soon as I hit the streets! am reminded and annoyed and it's driving me bunkers.
I just did all this on the floor I'm sending to you next time never again 😢
Props man! There's nothing more satisfying than finishing a job, and I bet you even save a few hundred dollars. Great job!!
Will this work on a RX300
I believe more RX300s are easier since it does not have the side mounts in the way.
Not so easy
What was it that you found not so easy?
No garage no lift no power tools
I used one floor jack and two floor stands and it worked.@@PeterHernandez-lg2eh