Fortunately that UKW problem got solved after some persintent troubleshooting and did not make you to open the whole switch system. Well, almost every single german radio of that era eventually has some kind of switch contact problems but usually an aggressive deoxit treatment helps, Gott sei Dank. 😀 Nice video again.👍
Quite a weird fault that one. I belive that, if it hasnt been tampered with, no washer or some kind of spacer is missing. Anyway, as you said before, you live and learn. Thanks for sharing.
Nicely done and explained. I was thinking at the end of your last video that your FM switch problem was possibly caused by a slightly bent frame or a broken solder joint. Both are very tough to locate. I wonder what the black paint covering that screw was for? Maybe the screw is just a hair too long and backing it off a quarter turn is enough to prevent a short to ground underneath it? Just a thought. Anyway, glad you found the problem!
The reason for the huge change was valve aging. It changes the reactance of the source valve, which changes the correct alignment point of the next IF transformer. That is actually why realignment is necessary at all, far more so than component drift. You didn't state at the end that you were adjusting the oscillator trimcap to bring the 101.6 station into tuning range, and you could have adjusted the trim coil to get the 88 station into the right place on the dial. The problem with multimeter alignment of the IF is that it doesn't work if there is over-coupling: you end up too peaked and not enough bandwidth. The detector secondary should be tuned for zero volts and the _primary_ for THD, after maximising its response. Nice work though.
Dear Sir, I watch your videos for inspiration. I repaired a SABA Sabine, replacing most caps and after a long search a dead resistance. It worked fine for few days then the FM came and go when the radio warms up then the FM stopped for good. I checked all the resistances, caps all seem fine. In FM i hear static but no tuning. How can i check if a tube is faulty ? All are warming, filaments OK ??? Any idea to guide me ?
Have a look at the ECH (UCH) 81. They often go duff. Also test FM tuner by feeding signal into IF from the FM tuner of another radio. Remember it can be live chassis. ECC (UCC)85 may also be at fault. Check all supply voltages in tuner/IF area. Do you have schematic?
It just occurred to me how gorgeous this thing looks now. What a great job you’ve done on the cleaning! 😃
😊
Manuel, Not only are your technical abilities good but you're a great teacher and entertainer.
Thank you
thank you
Fortunately that UKW problem got solved after some persintent troubleshooting and did not make you to open the whole switch system.
Well, almost every single german radio of that era eventually has some kind of switch contact problems but usually an aggressive deoxit treatment helps, Gott sei Dank. 😀
Nice video again.👍
thanks
Excellent video as all ways! Thank you.
thanks
Hi. I just bought my first old radio for restoration, Telefunken Super 165wk and your videos are super helpful :)
enjoy
Really like the way you do an alignment. Coming along very well.
Thanks 👍
Quite a weird fault that one. I belive that, if it hasnt been tampered with, no washer or some kind of spacer is missing. Anyway, as you said before, you live and learn. Thanks for sharing.
my pleasure
Gostei da explicação e da resolução do problema da tecla do Fm.
Obrigado
👍
Nicely done and explained. I was thinking at the end of your last video that your FM switch problem was possibly caused by a slightly bent frame or a broken solder joint. Both are very tough to locate. I wonder what the black paint covering that screw was for? Maybe the screw is just a hair too long and backing it off a quarter turn is enough to prevent a short to ground underneath it? Just a thought. Anyway, glad you found the problem!
It’s been fine so far. We’ll see if it keeps working well.
The reason for the huge change was valve aging. It changes the reactance of the source valve, which changes the correct alignment point of the next IF transformer. That is actually why realignment is necessary at all, far more so than component drift. You didn't state at the end that you were adjusting the oscillator trimcap to bring the 101.6 station into tuning range, and you could have adjusted the trim coil to get the 88 station into the right place on the dial. The problem with multimeter alignment of the IF is that it doesn't work if there is over-coupling: you end up too peaked and not enough bandwidth. The detector secondary should be tuned for zero volts and the _primary_ for THD, after maximising its response. Nice work though.
👍
Hi~, when you extend FM band to 101.6 , which IF screw did you adjust? Is it A and B? thanks always for the great contents!
It’s been a while, so I can’t remember. However, it should be clear in the video.
Dear Sir, I watch your videos for inspiration. I repaired a SABA Sabine, replacing most caps and after a long search a dead resistance. It worked fine for few days then the FM came and go when the radio warms up then the FM stopped for good. I checked all the resistances, caps all seem fine. In FM i hear static but no tuning. How can i check if a tube is faulty ? All are warming, filaments OK ??? Any idea to guide me ?
I check tubes by replacing them with one I know is working. I don’t use a tube tester.
Have a look at the ECH (UCH) 81. They often go duff. Also test FM tuner by feeding signal into IF from the FM tuner of another radio. Remember it can be live chassis. ECC (UCC)85 may also be at fault. Check all supply voltages in tuner/IF area. Do you have schematic?
Thanks for the good advices. I ll proceed with this as soon as i find replacement tubes. Thanks a lot again !