I just did this job for the first time and used this and a few other TRQ videos as guides. Here are some tips for some other first timers with things I had trouble with, and just some other notes with timestamps in the video. You don't NEED to take the alternator and tensioner off, but it is a LOT easier if you do and gives you a lot more room. I replaced my tensioner at this point too, because it needs to be removed to change the coolant elbows(which should be replaced with metal elbows anyway). If youre replacing the tensioner and your kit doesn't come with new o-rings for the heater core hoses, they are GM part number 24502375. They are likely not in good enough shape to reuse. 6:04 - If this has never been done before(or wires never changed etc), the spark wires will be routed under that electrical connector. It's easy to just wiggle them out from underneath it. 8:15 - If this canister has not been removed before, it doesn't wiggle freely. This would not move until the middle prong of the bracket was bent outwards slightly. Take a screwdriver and lightly wedge it inbetween the middle prong and it should free right up. You can see this for a second at 43:45, the middle prong is bent outwards. This took me like an hour to figure out because there isn't much room to see it. 8:49 - it's easier to just keep the fuel lines in that retainer and slide the retainer off of the bracket that it is attached to. Bungee these out of the way once removed. They will continue to leak fuel vapors and some gas for a while. I stuffed mine with rags since I had the car sitting like this overnight in my garage in the middle of winter. 12:59 - Fuel injector electrical connectors: If these have not been removed, you will need to push in the grey middle part while pulling up on the tab. This took me a ridiculous amount of time because I was afraid of breaking them but they wouldn't move. 13:39 - This vacuum line DOES NOT COME OFF EASILY. Take your time but you're going to need to use some force. It may be easier to remove the actual port from the back of the intake then separate it. I broke my port off, but I replaced the upper intake with the ATP kit, which came with a new port anyway. 16:19 - this nut for the bracket will likely be seized to the stud, and will take that entire stud out of the intake with it. This is fine. Separate them once it's removed so you can torque properly. Use vice grips to grab the stud in an area that doesn't have threads, and use an impact and it should come right off. 18:30 - Stuff these with rags anyway. you don't want to drop anything down there. 19:20 and 19:40 - Brackets: Good time to remove them, but after the intake is back in place with the new gaskets, it's A LOT easier to put these back on BEFORE the upper intake is in place again like later in this video. 20:46 - EGR Tube - it's not a bad idea to replace this since you have to essentially remove it anyway. I went with OEM/ACDelco, but im sure the dorman or WVE would be fine. 21:02 - Intake bolts, these are actually 3/8 instead of 10mm. 10mm will work, but has a slightly higher chance of stripping the head (which for obvious reasons is bad). Some of these were extremely tough to get out, due to whatever sealant GM used in the factory (20+ years ago) and whatever corrosion. I used a 1/4 ratchet and slowly moved each bolt back and forth until there was less resistance. Take your time with this. 22:48 - If you removed the tensioner, it's a lot easier to dump the coolant down the side of the engine instead of inside of the crankcase as shown happening in the video here. The less coolant that gets dumped into the center of the engine, the better. 29:07 - This isn't mentioned in the video but that port right below has a gasket that has probably disintegrated. Some gasket kits (like the GM MS006 kit) come with this gasket. It's quick to change, and since you already have this off of the engine, it's worth doing. 32:15 - For cleaning the threads, you can either take a wire wheel or wire brush to them, but I found a product on amazon that made this incredibly fast and easy. "Thread Wizard". it's $20 and I was able to clean each bolt in like 10-15 seconds each. You can use white teflon thread sealant paste, or blue loctite/threadlocker here. Many guides(and apparently alldata) recommend blue thread locker. I used Blue 243 loctite, which supposedly has some more oil resistance. 35:22 - Upper intake - there is a port in the rear of the intake by the top that goes to the PCV valve. If you're replacing your intake(you should) or the gasket( you should), make sure the straw is going up into that hole. 37:10 - does not show an image of the bolt pattern for the intake. You can find this easily online and print it out to have it ready for you. Or, print out the dorman upper intake instructions. It's also a good idea to do the upper intake in multiple passes instead of straight to 89 in-lbs, because they are prone to cracking. I did 44, 66, and 89 in lbs. 39:59 - For the injector o rings, the ATP kit I had at least, the rings were too small. I had to run to autozone(thankfully was able to get a ride) and pick up some Fel-Pro ES71190. They come in 4 packs, so get 2. Order these ahead of time and avoid the headache. 41:48 - this is the bracket I mentioned around 19:40. Much easier to put on before the upper is on. 52:42 - Stick with dex cool and just flush it every 5 or so years. The issue it has such a bad rap is because nobody flushes it, it goes unchanged for 15+ years and starts eating away at things.
By far the best tutorial video I’ve seen. Great and specific detailed explanations of every single step along the way. The camera work is phenomenal and he is narrating as he’s doing the work not just in a voiceover later. It doesn’t get better than this.
This video saved me so much time and stress! I went several steps further and replaced all head cylinder gaskets on a 2001 Buick LeSabre Custom. I was relieved to come back to this video once the head cylinders and components were cleaned, serviced, and reinstalled. Thank you so much for this video!!! Good education, thorough work, and great videography 👌
+@BrianPulsipher-co8yp Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
After seeing all the effort involved in these TRQ how to videos I have made sure to order all of my parts through A1, Parts Geek, And carparts as TRQ parts. The TRQ parts haven't let me down yet, and the instructional videos are so appreciated by us DIY customers. Thx!
+@smirkinatu5512 Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
FYI: buy the Upper Intake Manifold by ATP. It is the ONLY one that has the aluminum insert so the EGR tube won’t melt the UIM. Also, ATP uses nylon composite, not plastic. It is the best UIM to use. Also, my man, you have to replace the elbows with metal ones.
After finger tightening and then bottoming out the bolts, tighten them to 1/3 of the manufacturer specification to ‘squish’ the RTV and then wait 1 hour for it to get firm. Then after 1 hour tighten the bolts the rest of the way. This way all the rtv doesnt just get squeezed out the sides and actually firms up so it will push against the manifold when you tighten the bolts the rest of the way.
Important valuable information, 3800 version 2, every lower intake gasket fails. Causing coolant and oil to wick up into the upper intake. Putting an inspection scope through the throttle body to the intake you can see the coolant and oil pooling. If the lower intake fails or the EGR upper melts,it could hydrolock the engine.
Mine hydrolocked. Both upper and lowers leaked after the vehicle sat. It also threw a P0102 after the MAF became covered in coolant. The air filter was soaked in coolant. I pulled the spark plugs and fuel pump relay and blew the coolant out of the cylinders. STUPID DESIGN! The starter was burning hot trying to crank it over when it was unknowingly hydrolocked.
Now that I've dug in to it further, everything that typically fails has failed! The two plastic 90 degree elbows that run through the pulley bracket both broke at the ends like shown in another video.
Just did coolant elbows, upper and lower intake. followed everything and somehow I still have a 13mm bolt...WTH lol anyone have an idea where the 13mm bolt would go to?
It would be a good idea when replacing the gaskets to also replace the coolant elbows if they are plastic with the doorman aluminum ones the plastic ones tend to disintegrate or crack but be careful the aluminum ones could come cracked if handled improperly so be sure to check the aluminum ones 😂ok what your think but sometimes they crack if you drop them on the floor I have never seen them crack when there fitted to the engine 😂
No one's going to comment on the fact that there's a fuse puller in the fuse box 1 inch from the fuses and he still used pliers anyway to remove the fuses? Also, why pull the fuses when the battery is already connected? Seems like overkill and now you just have something that you have to remember to replace before restarting the engine when they didn't even need to be removed in the first place.
I'm burning a little coolant at startup in my 2000 Park Ave base. My lower intake gasket looks like it's metal, so they have probably been replaced. Is this "disappearing" coolant issue more likely to be the upper intake plastic plenum and its gasket, or the lower intake gaskets? I'll be inspecting the upper intake and gasket when I pull them off.
At 35:02 Dude definitely cross threaded the 10mm that went into the alternator bracket lol you can see it come up after it had already been “tightened” lol
Hello, Great content. Wondering what hose clamp pliers you used on this video? I looked at the list of items used but could not find the pliers. Thanks in advance
Would like to know which thread sealant was applied to the LIM bolts? I have some MED permtx liquid sealer on hand.. doing re assemble soon. Thanks in advance jp
Hey guys... those blue pieces in the thumbnail (yknow those pieces to the right of the thumbnail next to the red/black pieces.. exactly what are those used for? Because i just mounted my lower intake manifold and i didnt use em yet
27:10 I'D NEVER reuse those plastic coolant elbows. Ive owned several Buick's with those engines. I've broken down only twice BOTH times were because of the plastic coolant elbows rupturing , i suggest to always replace them with metal elbows
When you used compressed air to blow the intake ports, Are you blowing debris back down into the ports? I would have covered the ports when scraping the old gasket then i probably would have got a small vacuum extension to vacuum through the ports instead of blowing debris back into them, Just saying, Plus i would have changed the valve cover gaskets when you were already there. Also, I would have at least cleaned alot of that sludge on the lower intake with rags then flush some new oil in when done then change the oil again. Maybe I am OCD, LOL
seemed like a good overall job with one exception. why were the valve cover gaskets overlooked??? with all this overall work and a dirty motor I can not see why this easy and obviously easy extra step was not taken. just saying
Very good teacher! Would you be so kind to explain the least expensive way to convert an old MGB to gain more torque to the rear axil. I bought a used one years ago and the person I bought it from warned me that if I let the clutch out a bit too fast the wheels would spin. The car was super fun to drive because it didn't dog out when excelerating in the lower gears. Just not sure what one of the previous owners did to make it such a quick car. I'm guessing they changed the gears in the differential but not sure. I have never done any major repairs or convetions on a car and have no idea of the cost or best way. Thanks Will buy another MGB and hopfully it's not too expensive to do the convertion.
+@johnjohn4882 We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
+LTmusic We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
So I’m not a pro at car repair. So would anyone have a guesstimate at what a shop might charge for this fix. I know it’s impossible to get an exact price , but I don’t know if it would be $100 or $1000 😉
Wrong. It is actually a very popular car because of its comfort, and it is generally easier to work on, as well as, being cost effect to maintain. In addition, the 3800 motor, while it has its share of issues, will keep running for quite a long time.
This 3800 motor gets easily as good of gas milage as a Lexus, plus as much power if not more!! These are the 2nd best motor ever made by GM, if you get one of these cars with the turbo charger, the power and 0 to 60 will amaze you!!! Don't knock till you try it!!
By far the best tutorial video I’ve seen. Great and specific detailed explanations of every single step along the way. The camera work is phenomenal and he is narrating as he’s doing the work not just in a voiceover later. It doesn’t get better than this.
+@kellylafountain487 Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
√ Watch the Video
√ Buy The Part at 1A Auto 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ-Parts
√ Do it Yourself
√ Save Money
I just did this job for the first time and used this and a few other TRQ videos as guides. Here are some tips for some other first timers with things I had trouble with, and just some other notes with timestamps in the video.
You don't NEED to take the alternator and tensioner off, but it is a LOT easier if you do and gives you a lot more room. I replaced my tensioner at this point too, because it needs to be removed to change the coolant elbows(which should be replaced with metal elbows anyway). If youre replacing the tensioner and your kit doesn't come with new o-rings for the heater core hoses, they are GM part number 24502375. They are likely not in good enough shape to reuse.
6:04 - If this has never been done before(or wires never changed etc), the spark wires will be routed under that electrical connector. It's easy to just wiggle them out from underneath it.
8:15 - If this canister has not been removed before, it doesn't wiggle freely. This would not move until the middle prong of the bracket was bent outwards slightly. Take a screwdriver and lightly wedge it inbetween the middle prong and it should free right up. You can see this for a second at 43:45, the middle prong is bent outwards. This took me like an hour to figure out because there isn't much room to see it.
8:49 - it's easier to just keep the fuel lines in that retainer and slide the retainer off of the bracket that it is attached to. Bungee these out of the way once removed. They will continue to leak fuel vapors and some gas for a while. I stuffed mine with rags since I had the car sitting like this overnight in my garage in the middle of winter.
12:59 - Fuel injector electrical connectors: If these have not been removed, you will need to push in the grey middle part while pulling up on the tab. This took me a ridiculous amount of time because I was afraid of breaking them but they wouldn't move.
13:39 - This vacuum line DOES NOT COME OFF EASILY. Take your time but you're going to need to use some force. It may be easier to remove the actual port from the back of the intake then separate it. I broke my port off, but I replaced the upper intake with the ATP kit, which came with a new port anyway.
16:19 - this nut for the bracket will likely be seized to the stud, and will take that entire stud out of the intake with it. This is fine. Separate them once it's removed so you can torque properly. Use vice grips to grab the stud in an area that doesn't have threads, and use an impact and it should come right off.
18:30 - Stuff these with rags anyway. you don't want to drop anything down there.
19:20 and 19:40 - Brackets: Good time to remove them, but after the intake is back in place with the new gaskets, it's A LOT easier to put these back on BEFORE the upper intake is in place again like later in this video.
20:46 - EGR Tube - it's not a bad idea to replace this since you have to essentially remove it anyway. I went with OEM/ACDelco, but im sure the dorman or WVE would be fine.
21:02 - Intake bolts, these are actually 3/8 instead of 10mm. 10mm will work, but has a slightly higher chance of stripping the head (which for obvious reasons is bad). Some of these were extremely tough to get out, due to whatever sealant GM used in the factory (20+ years ago) and whatever corrosion. I used a 1/4 ratchet and slowly moved each bolt back and forth until there was less resistance. Take your time with this.
22:48 - If you removed the tensioner, it's a lot easier to dump the coolant down the side of the engine instead of inside of the crankcase as shown happening in the video here. The less coolant that gets dumped into the center of the engine, the better.
29:07 - This isn't mentioned in the video but that port right below has a gasket that has probably disintegrated. Some gasket kits (like the GM MS006 kit) come with this gasket. It's quick to change, and since you already have this off of the engine, it's worth doing.
32:15 - For cleaning the threads, you can either take a wire wheel or wire brush to them, but I found a product on amazon that made this incredibly fast and easy. "Thread Wizard". it's $20 and I was able to clean each bolt in like 10-15 seconds each. You can use white teflon thread sealant paste, or blue loctite/threadlocker here. Many guides(and apparently alldata) recommend blue thread locker. I used Blue 243 loctite, which supposedly has some more oil resistance.
35:22 - Upper intake - there is a port in the rear of the intake by the top that goes to the PCV valve. If you're replacing your intake(you should) or the gasket( you should), make sure the straw is going up into that hole.
37:10 - does not show an image of the bolt pattern for the intake. You can find this easily online and print it out to have it ready for you. Or, print out the dorman upper intake instructions. It's also a good idea to do the upper intake in multiple passes instead of straight to 89 in-lbs, because they are prone to cracking. I did 44, 66, and 89 in lbs.
39:59 - For the injector o rings, the ATP kit I had at least, the rings were too small. I had to run to autozone(thankfully was able to get a ride) and pick up some Fel-Pro ES71190. They come in 4 packs, so get 2. Order these ahead of time and avoid the headache.
41:48 - this is the bracket I mentioned around 19:40. Much easier to put on before the upper is on.
52:42 - Stick with dex cool and just flush it every 5 or so years. The issue it has such a bad rap is because nobody flushes it, it goes unchanged for 15+ years and starts eating away at things.
By far the best tutorial video I’ve seen. Great and specific detailed explanations of every single step along the way. The camera work is phenomenal and he is narrating as he’s doing the work not just in a voiceover later. It doesn’t get better than this.
This video saved me so much time and stress! I went several steps further and replaced all head cylinder gaskets on a 2001 Buick LeSabre Custom. I was relieved to come back to this video once the head cylinders and components were cleaned, serviced, and reinstalled.
Thank you so much for this video!!! Good education, thorough work, and great videography 👌
+@BrianPulsipher-co8yp Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
After seeing all the effort involved in these TRQ how to videos I have made sure to order all of my parts through A1, Parts Geek, And carparts as TRQ parts. The TRQ parts haven't let me down yet, and the instructional videos are so appreciated by us DIY customers. Thx!
This video is awesome and really shows you how to. Not some of the other shadowy videos on this topic out there. Thank you.
+@smirkinatu5512 Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
FYI: buy the Upper Intake Manifold by ATP. It is the ONLY one that has the aluminum insert so the EGR tube won’t melt the UIM. Also, ATP uses nylon composite, not plastic. It is the best UIM to use. Also, my man, you have to replace the elbows with metal ones.
+Jonathan Thanks for the feedback! 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
Do the series 3 (2005) lacrosse have this issue
It seems the ATP intake plenum is false advertisement, I looked at reviews
Thanks for the videos. Currently doing an overhaul on a Buick I inherited. This is all coming at the perfect time.
After finger tightening and then bottoming out the bolts, tighten them to 1/3 of the manufacturer specification to ‘squish’ the RTV and then wait 1 hour for it to get firm. Then after 1 hour tighten the bolts the rest of the way. This way all the rtv doesnt just get squeezed out the sides and actually firms up so it will push against the manifold when you tighten the bolts the rest of the way.
Excellent video work with the best detail narration.
Nice camera work and attention to detail. Surprised you could do it without taking off alternators
Important valuable information, 3800 version 2, every lower intake gasket fails.
Causing coolant and oil to wick up into the upper intake.
Putting an inspection scope through the throttle body to the intake you can see the coolant and oil pooling.
If the lower intake fails or the EGR upper melts,it could hydrolock the engine.
Mine hydrolocked. Both upper and lowers leaked after the vehicle sat. It also threw a P0102 after the MAF became covered in coolant. The air filter was soaked in coolant. I pulled the spark plugs and fuel pump relay and blew the coolant out of the cylinders. STUPID DESIGN! The starter was burning hot trying to crank it over when it was unknowingly hydrolocked.
Now that I've dug in to it further, everything that typically fails has failed! The two plastic 90 degree elbows that run through the pulley bracket both broke at the ends like shown in another video.
Avoid Hydro Lock:
Consider adding a video about the upper platinum and the design flaw that allows the EGR pipe to melt plastic upper plemuim.
This guy should be teaching mechanics.
I'm a bit confused as to why you pulled the injector fuses? Seems a bit redundant if the battery is disconnected like it should be.
Just did coolant elbows, upper and lower intake. followed everything and somehow I still have a 13mm bolt...WTH lol anyone have an idea where the 13mm bolt would go to?
This quickly become a very difficult DIY job. Ugh, tempted to just let it go until it's time to drive the 2003 to the dump.
I love this video. Show more of that and keep up with the good work. God bless
You can turn the fuel line connectors up in the air after removing them to prevent dripping more gas out. They twist inside the rubber hose.
It would be a good idea when replacing the gaskets to also replace the coolant elbows if they are plastic with the doorman aluminum ones the plastic ones tend to disintegrate or crack but be careful the aluminum ones could come cracked if handled improperly so be sure to check the aluminum ones 😂ok what your think but sometimes they crack if you drop them on the floor I have never seen them crack when there fitted to the engine 😂
Ten years two engines with my Dorman UIM. I see TRQ has their own UIM also, I haven't looked up any reviews yet.
No one's going to comment on the fact that there's a fuse puller in the fuse box 1 inch from the fuses and he still used pliers anyway to remove the fuses? Also, why pull the fuses when the battery is already connected? Seems like overkill and now you just have something that you have to remember to replace before restarting the engine when they didn't even need to be removed in the first place.
Why did you pull out those 2 fuses?
Great video best teaching I've seen Good Job
I'm burning a little coolant at startup in my 2000 Park Ave base. My lower intake gasket looks like it's metal, so they have probably been replaced. Is this "disappearing" coolant issue more likely to be the upper intake plastic plenum and its gasket, or the lower intake gaskets? I'll be inspecting the upper intake and gasket when I pull them off.
18:17 i wonder if one can use painters or even masking tape to tape over the holes rather than stuff em with rags or towels
Take a shot everytime he says “essentially”.
At 35:02 Dude definitely cross threaded the 10mm that went into the alternator bracket lol you can see it come up after it had already been “tightened” lol
Is this basically same for 96 Buick regal with 3.8
use the aluminum elbows!
Hello,
Great content.
Wondering what hose clamp pliers you used on this video?
I looked at the list of items used but could not find the pliers.
Thanks in advance
Very good presentation! Thank you!!!
Would like to know which thread sealant was applied to the LIM bolts? I have some MED permtx liquid sealer on hand.. doing re assemble soon. Thanks in advance jp
What are the two grey bar type gaskets for that come with the felpro kit?
Hey guys... those blue pieces in the thumbnail (yknow those pieces to the right of the thumbnail next to the red/black pieces.. exactly what are those used for? Because i just mounted my lower intake manifold and i didnt use em yet
Great video dude
That's a clean ass 3800
27:10 I'D NEVER reuse those plastic coolant elbows. Ive owned several Buick's with those engines. I've broken down only twice BOTH times were because of the plastic coolant elbows rupturing , i suggest to always replace them with metal elbows
Are we sure that petroleum jelly is rubber seal safe?
love that 3800 engine
nice repair.
What kind of material the used in 2002? Is it rubber, cork or multi-layer steel?
When you used compressed air to blow the intake ports, Are you blowing debris back down into the ports? I would have covered the ports when scraping the old gasket then i probably would have got a small vacuum extension to vacuum through the ports instead of blowing debris back into them, Just saying, Plus i would have changed the valve cover gaskets when you were already there. Also, I would have at least cleaned alot of that sludge on the lower intake with rags then flush some new oil in when done then change the oil again. Maybe I am OCD, LOL
How did you get the torque sepcs for the 3800v6 where can i find them please & thanks
seemed like a good overall job with one exception. why were the valve cover gaskets overlooked??? with all this overall work and a dirty motor I can not see why this easy and obviously easy extra step was not taken. just saying
Very good teacher! Would you be so kind to explain the least expensive way to convert an old MGB to gain more torque to the rear axil. I bought a used one years ago and the person I bought it from warned me that if I let the clutch out a bit too fast the wheels would spin. The car was super fun to drive because it didn't dog out when excelerating in the lower gears. Just not sure what one of the previous owners did to make it such a quick car. I'm guessing they changed the gears in the differential but not sure. I have never done any major repairs or convetions on a car and have no idea of the cost or best way. Thanks Will buy another MGB and hopfully it's not too expensive to do the convertion.
+Doug Hackett We do not have a video for this repair right now, but we'll keep this request in mind for a future video! 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
How long should I wait until I drive my car after doing this job.
How do I stop the egr tube from leaking out of the intake???
What would cause oil to be on top? Where bolts are hidden?
+@johnjohn4882 We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Hey would 89 inch pounds be technically 7.5 foot pounds on the torque wrench??
I would like to thank u guys for the valuable information also the quality parts I purchase from time to time!!
My Buick lesabre2004 is overheating and dying on me while driving. Blown head gasket?
+LTmusic We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
So I’m not a pro at car repair. So would anyone have a guesstimate at what a shop might charge for this fix. I know it’s impossible to get an exact price , but I don’t know if it would be $100 or $1000 😉
Where are y’all location
+@J0_active Our video studio is based out of Massachusetts.
What kind of tread locker did you use?
I come for Lexus/Toyota content. Buick's come on, people don't even drive those nowadays
Hey. Sorry not everyone can afford a Lexus.
Wrong. It is actually a very popular car because of its comfort, and it is generally easier to work on, as well as, being cost effect to maintain. In addition, the 3800 motor, while it has its share of issues, will keep running for quite a long time.
I drive one, it's been a great car.
This 3800 motor gets easily as good of gas milage as a Lexus, plus as much power if not more!! These are the 2nd best motor ever made by GM, if you get one of these cars with the turbo charger, the power and 0 to 60 will amaze you!!! Don't knock till you try it!!
@@goldtonestudio4471 It's funny that the 3800 actually gets better MPG than the 3100 & 3400!
By far the best tutorial video I’ve seen. Great and specific detailed explanations of every single step along the way. The camera work is phenomenal and he is narrating as he’s doing the work not just in a voiceover later. It doesn’t get better than this.
+@kellylafountain487 Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ