Loved the sound of all those happy birds, reminded me of my first 10 years in the UK during the 60's before my family migrated to Australia. Also, thanks for your tips on building Metcalf stone retaining walls, I am just about to start making 2 kits to span a meter of harbour back scene, many thanks once again Col.
Laser cut kits are spot on. I'ts a bit of a pain waiting for the glue to dry between different parts of the build, but sometimes a good thing to take a step back and take stock of where you are, as well as a break from the build. It will look great weathered and on the layout. Cheers John.
Hi Great video 👍 UHU glue is fantastic but as Metcalfe suggest put a paper clip in the end of the tube and squeeze the large hole together making the hole smaller!! It works great and keep the tube upright in a cup so the glue flows downward........😃 Also paint the cut ends for a more realistic look 👀 .......👍 Hope that helps. Stevie A.
Although we do not get the texture that a plastic kit has, I think the cardboard kits are better detailed. I shall be using the same kits at some point in the future. Martin (Thailand)
Your wife is in the garden, but she's not hanging out the washing, because you've got all the pegs! When reinforcing the piers, why not use a peg to keep the box against display part? When using the pegs, does this give a pressure point that leaves a compression (not suggesting surface marking, more a compression of the glue)? Brickwork needs to be consistent (so all the same) but I would put the full course at the top edge, under the coping stonework, and the raggedy half brick course can get lost in the ballast. We're all watching this as a how-to, so I will strive to have the same excesses of glue as you've achieved. LOL. Only joking; for UHU, you kept the strings under control very well. Wherever the card is cut or scored, do the white edges of the card need a touch of felt tip or paint? How would you weather these? No texture to support the weathering, so it all goes on manually. And presumably a dry wash, since I suspect the card would not enjoy too much moisture. When doing the piers, why not reversed like the piers on the main section? This would put the opening of the reinforcement into the strongest part of the pillar, which keeps it shut, and makes the structure of the card pillar strongest. (Yes, I appreciate I'm talking about structural strength for a cardboard decorating facing panel) And you only need two of the piers, since the next section of wall will provide the third pier. But thanks for the detailed explanation; as you say, a production line, and not waiting for the glue, sounds like a good idea. And you did mention the important items, like the flat back surface, flat bottom, non-exceedance by reinforcement, etc, which is the good thing. Kudos!
I've not noticed any issues with the pegs leaving dents or marks or issues with glue from this. The pegs I've used have the weakest tension out of my extensive peg collection, but I guess a thin layer of card could be put between the peg and the decorated face which could help spread the force for better glue adhesion. It's a good and valid point about hiding the half brick edge with ballast... and maybe how it's meant to be. The instructions however seem to illustrate that on the main face the half brick goes at the top which would mean the reverse should be the same. I now have 1.5 meters of wall made up which is all the same way so I doubt I will change it. I think it's an issue that I can live with ha ha. Those little fine tip Metcalfe bottles are well worth buying. They probably saved me a huge amount of UHU! The card is grey, so with the grey stone print it hardly shows up at all. Plus on this particular kit, there aren't many areas where this is needed. The instructions recommend that the edges are not painted on the stone kits. I imagine it is quite noticeable on the red brick colour. The weathering that I have planned will be fairly minor... maybe just paint (dry brush) with a very fine brush with white paint over some of the morter lines to give the indication of seeping lime...and on the lower edge I'll darken the bottom meter or so with a dark weathering powder and then seal them with something... ...I've been reading up on protecting card kits from moisture, it seems that PVA spray isn't great as it can leave a glossy effect, but clothing waterproofer spray seems like a possibility... I'll keep researching. I can't really see any other way that he pillar can go as they are sloped. I think with each kit you actually get 6 pillars... some of my earlier ones aren't great (a bit glue splodgy) so I figure I'll just make them all so I have spares. I reckon I can get a complete kit made in around an hour if I have everything to hand. Your comments always give me something to think about Thanks
Thanks for taking my comments in the spirit intended. Deal with all the problems, and the result should be as close to perfect as you can achieve. I like your glue bottles so much, I've ordered some myself. I suspect they'll pay for themselves in UHU saved😀 Weathering to reduce the uniformity is definitely part of the story. The age will have rust, lime creep, water stains and plant growth, so there's still a lot of story to tell. But a good presentation of the process to make these; I look forwards to more!
I do wonder about the score lines, where the bricks are not as a brickie would lay them. In USA, they have prebuilt cladding with bricks, and a brick that is normally key to keep the corner together is cut at the corner; once you notice it, it's really strange. So unless like those grand Victorian houses you have a lighter stone at each edge of the rougher mortar, it may be that blending the edges may help. Probably only needed on centrepiece buildings, but make the decision and you can be happy with it as a choice, not a "I didn't think of that"
Tom Lawton Once I have a decent number of them built I'll look at the weathering. Any issues that I find with the score lines may be able to be weathered out or hidden. I think I might get to know my way around these pretty quickly as I have about another 7 packs to get and build.
Loved the sound of all those happy birds, reminded me of my first 10 years in the UK during the 60's before my family migrated to Australia. Also, thanks for your tips on building Metcalf stone retaining walls, I am just about to start making 2 kits to span a meter of harbour back scene, many thanks once again Col.
Laser cut kits are spot on. I'ts a bit of a pain waiting for the glue to dry between different parts of the build, but sometimes a good thing to take a step back and take stock of where you are, as well as a break from the build. It will look great weathered and on the layout. Cheers John.
Hi Great video 👍
UHU glue is fantastic but as Metcalfe suggest put a paper clip in the end of the tube and squeeze the large hole together making the hole smaller!!
It works great and keep the tube upright in a cup so the glue flows downward........😃
Also paint the cut ends for a more realistic look 👀 .......👍
Hope that helps.
Stevie A.
Although we do not get the texture that a plastic kit has, I think the cardboard kits are better detailed. I shall be using the same kits at some point in the future. Martin (Thailand)
Looks good, I was pondering these in the shop today. How wide are the sections and columns?
Looks good,I like metcalfe kits their nice, great vid
good video should look good with some weathering
Your wife is in the garden, but she's not hanging out the washing, because you've got all the pegs!
When reinforcing the piers, why not use a peg to keep the box against display part?
When using the pegs, does this give a pressure point that leaves a compression (not suggesting surface marking, more a compression of the glue)?
Brickwork needs to be consistent (so all the same) but I would put the full course at the top edge, under the coping stonework, and the raggedy half brick course can get lost in the ballast.
We're all watching this as a how-to, so I will strive to have the same excesses of glue as you've achieved. LOL. Only joking; for UHU, you kept the strings under control very well.
Wherever the card is cut or scored, do the white edges of the card need a touch of felt tip or paint?
How would you weather these? No texture to support the weathering, so it all goes on manually. And presumably a dry wash, since I suspect the card would not enjoy too much moisture.
When doing the piers, why not reversed like the piers on the main section? This would put the opening of the reinforcement into the strongest part of the pillar, which keeps it shut, and makes the structure of the card pillar strongest. (Yes, I appreciate I'm talking about structural strength for a cardboard decorating facing panel)
And you only need two of the piers, since the next section of wall will provide the third pier.
But thanks for the detailed explanation; as you say, a production line, and not waiting for the glue, sounds like a good idea.
And you did mention the important items, like the flat back surface, flat bottom, non-exceedance by reinforcement, etc, which is the good thing.
Kudos!
I've not noticed any issues with the pegs leaving dents or marks or issues with glue from this. The pegs I've used have the weakest tension out of my extensive peg collection, but I guess a thin layer of card could be put between the peg and the decorated face which could help spread the force for better glue adhesion.
It's a good and valid point about hiding the half brick edge with ballast... and maybe how it's meant to be. The instructions however seem to illustrate that on the main face the half brick goes at the top which would mean the reverse should be the same. I now have 1.5 meters of wall made up which is all the same way so I doubt I will change it. I think it's an issue that I can live with ha ha.
Those little fine tip Metcalfe bottles are well worth buying. They probably saved me a huge amount of UHU!
The card is grey, so with the grey stone print it hardly shows up at all. Plus on this particular kit, there aren't many areas where this is needed. The instructions recommend that the edges are not painted on the stone kits. I imagine it is quite noticeable on the red brick colour.
The weathering that I have planned will be fairly minor... maybe just paint (dry brush) with a very fine brush with white paint over some of the morter lines to give the indication of seeping lime...and on the lower edge I'll darken the bottom meter or so with a dark weathering powder and then seal them with something...
...I've been reading up on protecting card kits from moisture, it seems that PVA spray isn't great as it can leave a glossy effect, but clothing waterproofer spray seems like a possibility... I'll keep researching.
I can't really see any other way that he pillar can go as they are sloped.
I think with each kit you actually get 6 pillars... some of my earlier ones aren't great (a bit glue splodgy) so I figure I'll just make them all so I have spares.
I reckon I can get a complete kit made in around an hour if I have everything to hand.
Your comments always give me something to think about
Thanks
Thanks for taking my comments in the spirit intended. Deal with all the problems, and the result should be as close to perfect as you can achieve.
I like your glue bottles so much, I've ordered some myself. I suspect they'll pay for themselves in UHU saved😀
Weathering to reduce the uniformity is definitely part of the story. The age will have rust, lime creep, water stains and plant growth, so there's still a lot of story to tell.
But a good presentation of the process to make these; I look forwards to more!
I do wonder about the score lines, where the bricks are not as a brickie would lay them. In USA, they have prebuilt cladding with bricks, and a brick that is normally key to keep the corner together is cut at the corner; once you notice it, it's really strange. So unless like those grand Victorian houses you have a lighter stone at each edge of the rougher mortar, it may be that blending the edges may help. Probably only needed on centrepiece buildings, but make the decision and you can be happy with it as a choice, not a "I didn't think of that"
Tom Lawton
Once I have a decent number of them built I'll look at the weathering. Any issues that I find with the score lines may be able to be weathered out or hidden.
I think I might get to know my way around these pretty quickly as I have about another 7 packs to get and build.
Is there 4 in a pack?
Yup, 4 sections
@@thedevonmodelrailway2386 OK cool! Thanks