The Mystery Hose?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ต.ค. 2024
- The second vid of the hose that needs to be serviced to allow the PCV system to work better.
To get to 100% cleanliness would require removing the plenum and intake runners ... but this is a good second....
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OK Joe - I did it!! The hose was NOT baked on or brittle!! I used the Pittsburgh hose plier to take off the bottom end going into the crankcase. I forgot to turn the car off so immediately air shot OUT of the "port" - that's good because it means it was NOT clogged!! haha. Since i had the hose off then I poured some B12 in there - more than a capful - probably a couple cap fulls. Then I revved the engine a bit in idle to try burn it off - so the engine wouldn't hydrolock. Then I turned off the engine - put the hose back on and drove around for about 10 minutes. I had a "Service Engine Light" but since i just bought the Innova 3100 - then I cleared out the "idling at high speed" P code. Oh yeah - the hose stayed on - I reused the Old HOse!! Since it was in good condition. So what do you say to that report? You still think my PVC Hose port needs more cleaning? hahaha. You let me know. Is your goal to clean out the crankcase side of it more so than the "six ports" your referred to in the Intake Manifold? I realize those six ports are gonna be dirty. I'm just gonna use MMO from now on - I'll just had a quart of MMO added to my engine oil when I get an oil change and run it for the whole OTC. What do you think of that idea? Too long for MMO to be in the engine? I don't think it's a problem. Let me know if you think that's a problem in your view. haha. thanks again for the help - that was a fun adventure. P. s. I put the Boroscope down the hole and I didn't see anything - and so then I put my bicycle pump against the hole but I couldn't generate much PSI. I don't have any air pressure hose or forced air dealy. So like I said - air shot OUT of the port with the engine on - so it's not clogged up.
OK - that "clamp" doesn't do jack on that PVC Hose! I got the new hose and I tested out that clamp - it's not even a Spring Clamp. It's attached to the hose just to be able to "grab" onto the hose. So Joe was berating me for not just getting on it. So I used the Hose Pliers to remove the crankcase end of the hose. Then I had to stick the hose back on so I could pour the B12 Berryman down into the port. I had the engine running when I pulled the hose off and air shot UP and out - so that port and hose is definitely not clogged at all. haha. After I poured in some B12 - probably a couple cap fulls - then I started the engine back up and revved the idle for awhile to burn off the B12 so I wouldn't get hydrolock hopefully. Then I put the hose back on and I drove around for 10 minutes or so - and the Service Engine was on. I got a P code for "high rpm on idle." So I cleared that Service Engine light as I just got the INnova 3100 scanner so I can clear codes. haha. Thanks for the feedback - luckily the PVC hose was NOT brittle nor "baked on" and I reused the old hose. I'm gonna stick with MMO now. I tried looking in the port with the Boroscope and I saw no blockage. Then I tried pumping the "forced air" in but I only have a bicycle pump - so no PSI really. haha. It's still a very awkward spot to attach the hose - I couldn't get a funnel into that port at all. So I had to flip the hose around and reattach it. ... so I could pour the B12 into the port.
Marvel Mystery Oil has worked for me 👍
@@WoodyWard I'm running full synthetic - doing my own changes on oil - and reaching 289K. Put an external magnetic filter OEM Magnefine on the Remans transmission and it runs much better now. hahaha. Northern Midwest weather was tough on this 04 but still holding on and engine runs better now.
Show us putting fluid in the hose and after letting it sit, what do you after, do you start it up or do you need to change the oil. Thank you
I am on a 2-month service schedule now since I have successfully cleared the passageways sufficiently so it works very well. I am not due for another service until June-something.
During the next service I will try to remember to create another video of the process.
It has not been necessary to adjust oil changes to a shorter schedule because of cleaning the CV ports - the B12 never really gets near to the crankcase either as a liquid or a vapor ... I guess the fumes MIGHT get there if I let it sit overnight, but they rapidly flush away with the PCV operating correctly anyway when the engine runs a very short time --- so I think that's a non-issue.
Thanks for second video thumbs 👍.
I have made a little adapter for a hand pump to blow air downward thru the hose (backwards from its normal direction of flow). I'm pretty sure the hole down in the cylinder head is tiny, but the pump lets me periodically confirm that it is indeed clear.
Just before each oil change I pour some denatured alcohol into the tube and blow it downward into the block.
I haven't had to clean the throttle body for years. Before I started doing this all kinds of blow-by gunk would spatter up into the air plenum.
Unclogging it initially took a bit of effort, I think I used carb cleaner and it took like 15 psi air pressure to push it downward thru the tiny orifice hole.
Alcohol somehow doesn't seem to be very aggressive ,.. but if it works, who's to say not?
Everclear works on old mechanics though ... so there's that to consider.
@@SurferJoe46 If it had been anymore difficult to to clear, I wouldn't have hesitated to grab something more aggressive. Probably any liquid would provide the 'flush' action beneath the pressurized air.
But I wasn't exactly sure that whatever I used might be left stranded when I changed the oil.
Just remember that there are 12 ports that need cleaning - 2 for each cylinder --- remember this is a 4-valve per cylinder engine and 2 of them are intake!
Thanks for this video!!! I have the sludge on my oil cap of my 2003 GMC Envoy. I just bought Berryman's B12 and I will be giving this a shot when it gets delivered. I had a code P0014, which I fixed by replacing the VVT that was probably caused by the condensation issue. However, I still have a P1345 code so I'm hoping that just replacing my camshaft sensor fixes that code. If you have any suggestions on the P1345 code, I'd be happy to hear them!!!
I'll start adding B12 as part of my car maintenance on a regular basis to prevent future issues. Thanks again!!!
P1345 can be from oil getting throiugh the plug-prong seals - and creating resistance in the connection. If there's any "wetness" inside the electrical connection at all --- change the VVT. This is a common problem.
Great info. Thanks for sharing.
Is there no pcv valve? I have an '07 Trailblazer with starting issues. Battery, starter, spark plugs, alternator, fuel pump, gas cap are all good. I've seen many recommendations to change the pcv valve to fix my problem but I can't find one.
There is no PCV (the "V" in PCV is for 'valve' - so it's redundant).
I heard that on old engines if you clean the crank case or oil compartments you risk to get the seals leak after. They say that sediments of oil also cover the gaskets. So by removing them you better have perfect gaskets.
If you need sediments (sic) to complete the sealing of a gasket - you've got big troubles.
However --- you are repeating an old wives' tale that came about in the 1920s or so --- they had terrible gaskets and ring sealing, so anything that developed a coating on parts made an improvement.
@@SurferJoe46 I don't need this or that. I'm not intending to ofend anybody. This can happen overtime. Especially trucks over 2000 k several owners. Hard to know what they've done to them.
@@fernesal NO OFFENSE TAKEN.
In engines that are run hard and put away wet ... yes ... things happen.
But establishing a better seal with sludge and byproducts of combustion is never a good thing.
Pistons always had deposits on them in the days of petroleum product lubricants, but the advent of synthetics which won't readily add any deposits to the pistons negates that experience.
One caveat: IF an older dinosaur lubricated engine is switched to a new synthetic oil, the buildup deposits will be cleaned away and that's where things get crazy.
Clearances will open up and rattles and knocks start happening once things get clean.
So --- "yes" - kinda. You're right that deposits happen --- just not like they used to with the old-style oils and lubricants.
I don't see a hose clamp on mine (2008 Trailblazer), is it further up out of view or do I have to yank down & possibly add a hose clamp later?
well --- it really doesn't need a clampn becauae there is no pressure - only vacuum so chances of it blowing off is very very remote.
So if there's no clamp there - it should be just fine unless the hose has somehow deteriorated or some dimbulb put a piece of heater hose on there.
ALL emission hoses have a green stripe and are measured in 32nds of an inch. They are impervious to the fumes, heat and general pressures and vacuums of the emission system.
GATES hose is particularly strong and they were the first company to use that green stripe and all the other hose companies fell into step.
At the bottom of hose kinda difficult to see it from top but look thru drivers side wheel well and you can see it easily.
Thank you
You're welcome
Which b12? Theres mutliples. Sorry if i missed it. Great stuff
Berryman's B-12 Liquid. (Berryman 2616 B-12 Chemtool Total Fuel System Clean-Up)
Hi, I got my 06 tb at 158k. It’s now at 260k. The little S shaped hose has been disconnected for as long as I’ve had it except for once when I plugged it back in and then accumulated mayonnaise under the oil cap. I’m planning to do the B-12 thing today. Do you see any problems that could occur once I hook up the baby hose back up and run it? My concern is that 150k+ miles of crap from the pcv system going through the system will kill my car. I have a toddler’s knowledge on auto maintenance.
Since having that KV hose (the "s" shaped one) attached is the normal design --- if you follow the agenda to get the engine up to normal operating temp and then pulling the big hose on the plenum and dumping a glug of B12 into it --- let it sit a while and then start it and run it until it clears up and idles smoothly --- repeat a few times and then drive it for a bit.
If you do that a few times, spaced out over a few weeks, it will eventually clean up all those years of neglect - but it won't be instantaneously nor really noticeable while you're driving either; not for a while.
Persist and follw whatever schedule you can set up --- like every fill up of fuel or every Tuesday and Saturday --- whatever floats your boat.
You've gotta get that water out of your engine crankcase and the system back to working as well as you can.
/
Next video 🙏 Where is the PCV Valve? 2004 Envoy 4.2 Vortec
There really is none. This is the problem with it --- it doesn't exist in any form that you would recognize. It has no moving parts - it isn't accessible unless you take a lot of the engine apart --- and you wouldn't recognize it anyway. You cannot buy one - so don't let a parts counterman sell you one.
Just follow the procedure I stated here and you will clean out what operates as a PCV - but isn't really one.
My hose doesn't have clamp and is split along the nipple. What are steps for replacing instead of cleaning? Really limited info out there....Ty!
The hose is kinda short, so cutting a slit in it lengthwise to get it off is easy in your situation. That way you can bring the whole old hose to a parts store and get what you need. Remember that any emission-related hose diameter is measured in odd thirty-seconds of an inch eg: 11/32", 19/32", 7/32", etc., etc.
The liquid not the spray, so get the spray what! I’m confused. 🥴
Liquid is not the same as spray - although the chemicals in both are the same - it's just a lot cheaper to pour a liquid than to squirt a mist into the hose and/or nipple.
Ok where does all the build up go after you pour in berrymans -b12
It gets inhaled into the airstream going into each cylinder through their individual runners. This is what's all coked-up --- the runners!
The engine is normally supposed to get that crud in small batches - as a steady stream - to purge the crankcase constantly.
Yours (ours) haven't been serviced and therefore are not working correctly and the only option other than this is to remove the head.
I have the creamy looking stuff in the oil cap
If you watch the video and read the posts here, you'll find out how to get rid of it. Don't let it destroy your VVT, bearings, cams and followers and foul your throttle body.
Hey wat sup surfer joe , wat do u mean buy short hopping i think my oil was burning ihad smoke comin out dip stick i pur some b12 down but now smokin now ty ihav the same car
"Short-hopping" means to drive less than 5 miles - never really getting the engine up to - and holding - normal operating temperature on a regular basis.
Don't pour B12 directly into the engine crankcase. it is dangerous because it can free up particles of cooked deposits that can ruin bearings, the oil pump and the cams/lifters. It can also thin the oil to such a low viscosity that it ceases lubricating critical surfaces.
When you pour some B12 into the CV side of the PCV system, you are working in the air-intake side of the engine and not directly inside the crankcase/lubrication circuit. That's why I said to do it as I did ....in the "Mystery Hose" only.
I like your style Joe. Thanks for the good info. Off subject... What kind of mileage do you get on that ol gal? I infrequently drive my '04 Envoy, it used to get around 12 to 12.5 mixed city/hwy, I thought I'd treat her rite and added a measured amount of Lucas upper end cleaner. The mileage quickly dropped to 11.6 or so. Needless to say I didn't add a second dose. What's your take on that situation? 203k miles.
In 50+ years I never really liked a lot of additives.
Some were really good ... like those to soften C6 transmission rear piston seals that got hard. That was Dri-Power Red for transmission, Wow! It really did a good job! It also cleaned the case out so good that it only spent a few minutes in the hot tank when I rebuilt the unit anyway.
I use a High Zinc Break-In additive for my flat lifter 383 stroker Chevy SB and so far the cam hasn't gone flat - but I keep in cringing when it's running.
Since the custom rebuild of the 4L60E I had done - with a 3" 2/4 band, the "required" Corvette 2-4 servo (which may NOT be needed with the 3" band!) - a Z-Pack, a hardened sunshell, a PWM-Delete, a 5-pinion OD planet set and a Gil Younger Transco H-2 lit, I get about 22 MPG --- but I need another trip to confirm that - but so far it looks good.
Once you get that stupid slipping PWM TCC out of the unit, not only does it run cooler (no need for an add-on cooler) - it gets much better mileage.
@@SurferJoe46 Holly smokes, 22 mpg, that's gotta be a record for one of these! I've seen 16 mpg and thought that was good. Ya, if she were a new bride I'd probably spend the time, effort and money, but this ol gal and I have maybe gotten used to each other's flaws. I thought I was a bit of a car guy but I think you got me beat. I hadn't even considered the tranny... which means a whole different thing than it did when you and I were kids 🤣. Thanks again for your time and insight. Keep the videos commin' ey! PS: This was actually the first time I ever used an additive, probably the last too!
@@Tony-rl2fr That PWM kills the fuel mileage and makes the units run hot because that Kevlar clutch is boiling the ATF in the convertor. Cut the heat - and the energy loss from the fuel tank (ultimately to source of all the energy in a vehicle) and you won't need an auxiliary trans cooler.
Win-Win-Win.
I noticed a little bit of white smoke coming out of the exhaust pipe is that a bad sign or is that a sign that all that stuff is letting loose?
If it's somewhat white --- that is usually condensate from the exhaust system - many times the cat -- from it collecting atmospheric humidity as it cooled off from the last run. It's normal under most circumstances.
White is usually moisture --- it COULD be coolant but that's usually a bigger, lingering cloud of white.
Blue is oil and if it is sweet smelling, it went past the rings or down the intake into the combustion chamber --- this will likely show up because of bad rings, bad intake valve guides/seal --- or oil entering the PCV CV-side of the system.
HOWEVER ---> If it really burns your eyes and makes you cough --- it is usually still oil, but it didn't go through the combustion process and instead it got into the exhaust system right after the exhaust valve opens. It gets scorched, not burnt and it really stinks.
Black or dark grey - in a gasoline engine is usually unburned fuel.
As little B12 as you'll use each treatment, you might never see any exhaust colorization at all. You're just cleaning passageways that are supposed to be open and flowing anyway!
I have this engine. i cleaned the TB a few years ago when i got the vehicle and from what i remember it was not that dirty. Recently My vehicle will surge and drop RPM at idle bouncing between 500-1000 rpm the computer will kick and and hold it at 1000 eventually if it doesn't level out around 600 like it normal does. Could the PCV be causing this or do you have suggestions on other things to look at? Im going to take it apart and clean the TB this weekend and use come Barrymans in the PCV. i have about 175000 on it.
Up front, there are no "mechanical" devices in the PCV system --- in that, nothing "internally" moves either by an actuator or of it's own design. It is a static device that is affected by two distinct conditions: 1) the position of the throttle plate and 2. the amount of vacuum being created by engine RPM and somewhat less-significantly, roadspeed and horsepower load.
>On and of the road speed thingy ---> since the nearest "device" to affect roadspeed is the throttle and just coincidentally: the desire of the operator --- the throttle position is not considered a causative, but is the results of the final vacuum values the engine can create for whatever conditions exist. (I know --- that's just a tadbit confusing)
> On the #1 consideration ---> the Drive-By-Wire throttle plate(s) --- is/are not directly connected in the good old fashioned way with a rod or cable to open and close it to the whims of the driver. It is actuator-controlled by the throttle motor-positioner computer that has been programmed (mapped, really) to keep the vacuum inside the plenum to certain predetermined levels.
This is done by constantly adjusting the amount of throttle plate opening while sensing the vacuum IN THE PLENUM and applying mathematical wizardry to set the throttle to the best-place setting that achieves acceleration and still keeps the PCV system working under a sustainable vacuum.
Remember that blowby is greatest at the times when the pressures are ramping up inside the combustion chamber during accelersation and that's when the PCV has to be able to capture and reburn those gasses. This is primarily why you cannot snap the throttle open and run up to red line without the vehicle being in motion. Sitting still and revving the engine will be sad, to say the least if one likes to hear the intake roar ... 'cause it won't.
Now --- what device has such strong powers to limit the throttle opening?
> Well --- ultimately it's the computer - but it is only going by the numbers it gets fed from the sensors on the engine --- and a biggie here is the MAP or BMAP (if you have one or the other --- but you do have one or the other) - as it "reads" the piezzo voltage from the sensor that you have. This corollarates to a mapped-in program variable that the GM engineers have computed to be the best position for the throttle plate under "normally good conditions".
This "good condition" is a preferred sweet spot for the throttle and the PCV to operate in - controlling the blowby by their premapped syncopation.
When the PCV system is not working well - or correctly - then the vacuum metrics are all over the place and the computer relates to that by running a Hail Mary in a very subdued manner by not maximising the performance and economy that the vehicle was intended to operate under - or at all --- just to keep it running.
IOW --- with the PCV not working or almost failing so, and the vacuum metric is off the maps (of the computer) then the vehicle can be said to be operating in a not-as-designed mode and it hurts performance and at least we should not forget ---> economy.
/
I apologize for any typos in the above post as I was "typing" on a make-believe keyboard on a small tablet that afforded me a lot or typos and go-back corrections. I don't know how the line-out happened - but it's there and I don't know what it was that I did to cause it. I also cannot get back to the post to edit it --- somehow that power is not being afforded to me.
I have a 2003 tb and it knocks slightly at idle . But if I plug that hole on the valve cover under the big air box it stops . Any thoughts or solutions?
Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm. That's not normal. I haven't been ignoring your question --- I've been thinking of an answer for you during the time you posted until now.
I've got a few thoughts but they aren't solid yet. Let's let this cook on the internet for another few days and maybe someone will pipe-in their ideas.
So far - I got nothing but I am beginning to think that the CV-side is open on one port/runner only.
I have a 2007 and that hose doesn't exist
I don't know that for a fact ---- it might be so. I need to do some more research for you.
Thanks for the heads-up.
How much do I pour in the tube my 4.2 has a tube not a rubber hose with a spring clamp
Make sure you are looking at the correct tube --- it DOES turn to a steel tube when the rubber hose section is removed ... so --- from the highest part, it is plastic, then rubber, then steel where it disappears into the engine between the head and the block.
Pour it down but don't get the liquid get the spray???
You need the liquid 'cause buying the spray will eat up a lot of cans of B12.
I'm sorry. I like to see instead how is done. I'm not too good at listening. I might misunderstand.
How did you get it off I tried but when it goes dwn it goes back up when I release it and also it super hard not like a regular hose like soft squishy... is that bad
Btw I did that sucking test on oil dip stick and there is no sucking at all...
It's old - it's never been serviced - yes it's hard and bad. Cut it off and replace it with a new piece - you do not need a factory formed hose - ANY Green Stripe Emission hose of the correct size will work. All legally-CORRECT emission hoses are measured in 32nds of an inch - but this has been discussed at great length in other posts on this YT video comments section.
Will it cause low air pressure
"Low air pressure" where? Please be more specific ... I'll catch your answer in my email, so let me know.
How much of that B12 I should put in
A couple of caps full each time, then as maintenance put a couple more in every time you either.....
1. Think about it
2. Buy fuel,
3. Check the oil. I
..... just create a semblance of a schedule that works for you and the car. It won't hurt to overdose it ... especially at first until it partially cleans up.
Do I pour with the engine running ??
The vacuum loss won't let you -- although the ISC may try to compensate.
Add the B12 once the engine's up to "normal" operating temps and then just let it sit for a while --- let it work.
Start engine, blip the throttle a few times , stop the engine and repeat.
I'd try to do that maybe 6-10 times at first to get things softened up.
It may not totally "cure" the problem in the first application!
What size engine and model vehicle , looks like my i5 in my colorado, is it a 4, looks a little smaller
I'm not familiar with the L4 or L5, but I believe they are the same. The Atlas wouldn't vary too far from the central design.
It's a I believe 2005 trailblazer, not sure if its a ls or lt model. But the engine is actually an i6. There is 6 cyls
@@tylersanders8853 Mine is an '05 4.2 Liter, 6 cylinder EXT.
Okay so I put the seafoam down in the PCV hose and let it set all day long then I just came home from work and I put a little bit more in and I crank the engine up and I'm letting it run I'm boil as you say
Walter, Walter, Walter ---- not Seafoam --- use Berryman's B12 (not the spray version) because Seafoam isn't aggressive enough.
@@SurferJoe46 I just used the seafoam high mileage because that is what I had on hand but I can go get some berryman's
@@waltermerrill6152 OK --- B12 is a lot more aggressive and Seafoam won't even touch it.
@@SurferJoe46 that's good to know. I usually put the seafoam high mileage into the gas tank and into the crankcase right before oil change. It seem to work pretty well on my 4x4 trailblazer, but there's two wheel drive that I'm working on now seems to be really crudded up. The 4x4 has 260,000 on it and runs like a top, where is this one has like 150,000 and I'm always having troubles like this with it
@@waltermerrill6152 Walter ---- if I were to guess why one vehicle has troubles and another doesn't --- it might be frequency of oil changes and brands and additives and driving style and that it never got to the dealer after the warranty was out ---- good things like that ....
Since we're dealing with an engine that is not a pressure-related lube system and is instead, flow and volume related, then using a cleaner additive just before an oil change may or may not be good. I dunnow. It can surely thin the oil and that may not be a good thing.
If it's been successful in the past --- (again let me digress here) --- it might not be good after a certain point of engine wear. But I'm trying to stick spit wads on the walls here. I don't normally find anyone using Seafoam as a pre-oil change --- er, cleaner.
I have absolutely no problem with Seafoam in the fuel - since that's what it's designed for in the first place.
Helo jou ,wer does the hose actually go's? I'm trying to lurn about my enboy which is the same as trailblazer, thanks
It runs from the side of the plenum to a port that exits near the crankcase --- where it gets plugged up and stops the flow of waste gasses into the plenum where it goes through combusting to reburn it.
Thanks for the tip,joe