Again an excellent instructional video about 3D printing. However, the reason that the bandsaw doesn’t have a big metal hexagon for a spanner / wrench is because best practice is to tension the blade when the machine is running. I think you will find the plastic knob will be much easier to turn when the blade is running.
That makes sense, but the hang tag it shipped with just said tension BEFORE using the saw, but they probably meant before making a cut :P Either way the wrench makes the task a lot easier.
@@FunctionalPrintFriday Instructions should read "Tension blade with saw running but not under load or while making a cut. Anyway, tensioning with the motor spinning spreads the load/stresses on the blade and allows it to find its happy spot.
A good functional print that I recommend for anyone who prints or fabricates is a set of inside and outside radius gauges. Just a simple set of commonly used radii is amazingly helpful for projects like this.
I make stuff like this all the time. Print yourself a radius gauge (easy to find on Printables, Thangs, etc.) and you'll get a lot closer with the first prototype. Nice video.
I think almost all the CAD software packages allow you to import a picture and scale it. Take your phone or a camera and take a picture of the thing you are trying to mimic from as far away as you can with the zoom as high as your phone or camera can manage at that distance (and getting the whole object). If you include a ruler in the picture along side that object (or on top) you can set the scale of the image in your CAD software and model around the image. It may be easier than having a conveniently sized can of paint in your shop.
@@ClaytonMacleod Or in this case, make a hole on cardboard and cut to it from the side. Slide it under the knob and draw the shape. Get 1/1 copy for the scanner or camera
I've made things like this. A suggestion, make it slightly thicker and fill in 1 side so it's more like a socket (can't slip to far onto the knob) this will also help with strength and it will just be easier to use.
3D prints are so much stronger than a lot of people expect. A while back I designed a dog pellet breaker to break some medically prescribed dog food down from huge pellets for a smaller dog. I use a hammer to strike a printed piston that breaks the pellet on a printed anvil twice a day for every pellet. I've hit that thing thousands of times with deliberate force, and the thing holds up like a champ.
The knob being that stiff implies to me that there is something you are supposed to be loosening before adjusting the knob. Some kind of lock bolt for a sliding mechanism or something. It may also be easier to turn while the saw is running.
Nice! I tend to start by lubricating the mechanisms first. Sometimes that's all it takes to make adjustment easier. Then I'd look at either adding more diameter to the knob with a lever or handle to glue on top, or replace the existing knob completely. That means there's no extra loose part to misplace ad its always where you need it to be.
First thing I checked too, and the threads were well-greased. It's just more tension than I'm used to based on only having wood bandsaws before because there's no "tires" on the wheels. You're just stretching the blade on cast wheels.
I've done something similar but started with a straight-on photo. Brought it into Fusion, scaled it correctly, then it was easy to get all the radii correct. Thanks for the video.
A great technique for matching shapes such as the knob is to take a photo - as square on as possible. Import the photo into CAD, scaling on any convenient dimension. The photo then acts as a guide to match curves, etc. I have used this to match complex shapes in a couple of iterations.
Or, and here's a thought, it has a locking screw for the tension and you need to release that before adjusting? The two "clamp screws" are said to be loosened for adjusting blade tracking but I think there is an omission in manual for blade tension...
My wife had trouble with the gas cap on her car and was asking random guys at the gas station for help. So I made her a wrench similar to this and she's happy. I actually made two types. One was just a big know that slipped over the cap for more leverage and the other was one with a handle. She likes the handle one better.
A cool trick to model weird flat shapes is to take a camera, max the zoom to reduce parallax error, move as far as needes, and either place a refrence next to your part or take one refeerence dimension.
Oh that surprise at the end was sweet!!! Although I was really hoping you'd make a revision to add an enclosed back. For some reason that was really bothering me. Great video!
Yep, as bad as your OCD is, I too expect a reprint with a built in stop.😂 I suspect all you need to do is make the socket portion a few millimeters thicker and use that extra height to sweep the tips inboard at 45 degrees. 👍😎👍
@@FunctionalPrintFriday You could make a Snap-on backing plate/bar that clips onto the back of your final print. That turns in into a socket... and That way you can test your snap fit design and tolerance skills, and you don't waste plastic printing out a whole second one. As you know it's always So Gratifying when a part you make perfectly snaps where you want it to go. Especially when it does so on the first iteration!!
I liked your idea of potentially making it more like a socket. I probably would have also added some little round nubs, so that it sort of "snaps" on and off the handle, if it was a socket-style. But I totally understand all that would be overkill for a limited-use tool. Although, I have to admit the laser printing was a very nice touch 👌👍
Nice job, especially the engraving bonus, but I don't quite understand the need for it. I have a similar bandsaw and have no trouble tightening the blade with one hand. The block with the indicator is carrying the wheel with the blade. If you loosen it slightly it may be easier to adjust. Don't forget to tighten it again once the correct setten is achieved.
I love it when I can use my printer to solve a problem. Don't get me wrong. I also like printing little decorative things, but when it's useful things, it feels like it was a good tool, not just a toy.
The web thickness between the points of the star shape and the corners where the wrench handle meet the end of the wrench are the most likely failure points. One suggestion I would make would be to re-orient the star shape by rotating it inside the wrench design where there is a star point aligned with the center-line of the handle. This should increase the web thickness in the area where the handle meets the circular end making it even stronger. Nice design and it looks very strong with the 6 inside and outside walls along with the infill.
I've printed quite a few tools for one-off use. They worked brilliantly, just PLA and a tiny bit of thought in design and slicer use to give sufficient strength for the application.
My bet is that there are bolts you are supposed to loosen before adjusting the tension and tighten after. Edit: looked at the machine exploded view in the manifacturer's manual, and there is a set screw, preloaded from factory. No locking bolts and none needed. It will eventually get loose and need readjusting, but in a none industrial context, it will probably be fine for a long while.
Was my initial assumption as well, but one just holds the threaded block against the slide block, and the other sets blade tracking. It also loosens up when the blade is de-tensioned.
@@FunctionalPrintFriday Just checked the manual from the precision matthews website and it says to loosen those 2 bolts. I wouldn't take any chances since it will wear the tensioner.
@@ydefy1848what page? Been through the manual and not seeing that. I actually talked to their support as well (great ppl) and they said there was just the plastic knob.
One thing I haven't seen a comment about yet is your z-seam position. It can be a failure location and I see it on the outside still near the drive, so it would probably have been better moved down towards the handle.
Great video, I thought the wrench was going to break when you tighten it up. You could engrave on a recessed part clockwise to tension counterclockwise to loosen. Look forward to your next video.
I have been making this style wrenches for a few years now, perfect application for 3d printing. It was a challenge figuring out what material to use as PLA shattered and PETG and ABS was too soft. Ended up with carbonfill from formfutura
instead of doing 6 walls, could just do 3 walls at 200% LW. in theory takes less time assuming your now maxing out the flow rate of your material. But i do this just to reduce wear on my printer and often save just a tiny bit of time, being that you are using a bamboo printer prob not a whole lot but still some.
I'm definitely not the kind of person who questions the people doing the filming because sometimes it doesn't make sense to share the whole backstory, but I wondered something immediately about the wheel tension mechanism. I didn't see it mentioned elsewhere in the comments, so I don't think I'm repeating anybody else. Did you check the bolts where the hub of the wheel attaches to the casting? It doesn't seem impossible that those are too tight, causing it to be difficult to adjust. It's worth popping the blade off to see if it is still difficult to turn the knob, because it shouldn't be. Sorry for my assumptions on this if you checked already!
Great question. As I take the tension off the blade with the wrench it gets easier to turn. It's only when coming up to tension that it's hard to turn. It's easier to turn when the saw is running (which is the preferred method), but the wrench still makes it MUCH easier.
Nice vid, I also always struggle to fit something to real world objects. Always good to make simple fit models to dial in. @FPF which design tool do you use? And the inner part lettering is a sticker?
Can't say yet, but a vid will definitely be coming. I actually have two different new lasers to look at on the channel. One that cuts through THICK wood like it's not even there, and one that I used on that wrench. Very different machines, both invaluable to have in the maker-shop.
@@VanoverMachineAndRepairhilarious, I just read your comment on my phone, while watching your video on the welding rotaries on my TV, before i looked at the username :). Huge fan of your channel. I’ll reach out.
Think the easiest way when copying a two dimensional shape is to just take a photo of it. Then measure it and scale the photo to match that measurement in cad, and just use that to trace the shape.
Nice design. Seems like a pain to line up though. Socket style would make it more fun to use for sure (and stronger probably) Also prime use case for petg as it's tougher
I would have taken a picture of the knob straight on. Then measure the lowest diameter. Put the photo in fusion as a canvas, and then Calibrate the canvas with your measurement. Now you can outline the canvas and be super close without any other measurements (though I usually like to further calibrate)
I would have filled the top. Gives you a way to press against the wrench to keep it locked on the nut! No print problems too because you could print that flat area against the build plate.
@@FunctionalPrintFriday The etching / dye removal with I assume is a laser looked fantastic. I've tried with matte PLA and my UV galvo laser and no luck, but oh boy would I love to get something working to the quality you got! Looking forward to the video!
The knob is clearly INTENDED to be turned by hand, else the nut would be steel and they should have given you a wrench. Makes me think the tolerances might be off in the mechanism.
You could have changed the tension knob for a normal screw then use a normal wrench when this one disappears or breaks because plastic breaks years down the line.
Not a bad idea, but It's on a long threaded shaft. I could certainly make a new one on the lathe, but there's not enough thread left on the stock part if I cut the plastic knob off, and it doesn't seem to want to come off the threads otherwise.
I have a cricut machine. I like to design my stuff in fusion 360 then export to svg. I then cut with the cricut on cardstock then test fit. SOOOOO much faster than printing and wasting material.
I needed a 3” hex wrench to fix a plumbing problem. I found a wrench for $35 and would probably only use it only once. So I got on autocad and a couple hours later I had a new 3” hex wrench to fix my problem. Total cost 2hr design time 1hr printing time and $16cents in filament.
Put a piece of paper behind knob, take a profile pic of knob, make svg, import to fusion, scale to size, extrude svg to knob thickness, make tool around extruded svg, export 3d to slicer, print. Print wrench at 100%
You won't cut that with an angle grinder. Run a ton a coolant on that and it will be like cutting butter. I tried to cut 4140 about that diameter with an arbor mill before deciding that it fedexd here from hell itself. Never managed to cut it. I still have it.
Lets pretend you put a pivot bar(just a pole) in one of the points of your wrench. Then you put a full door/stop/face that pivots on that bar. Then you would have a wrench that can be turned intoa socket, or back into a wrench, right? Now pretend you did that on both sides, or just made one side a full on socket and left the "door" on the other side. Now you can put the wrench on for extended periods of time and dont have to go looking for it. You just have a bigger handle at that point lol
Interesting video, and I'm glad you got it to work, but I think it's a bandaid solution. If you're having that much trouble turning the knob on your new saw, you need to clean those threads out with a tap. Also, why so much guesswork? You have measurement devices. Why did it take two attempts to get the snug fit after the initial prototype?
it sounds like a good idea, and for a shelf queen this would probably look great, but I think anywhere on the wrench that it flexes or "gives" a small amount at the contact points the plating would probably crack because it's properties are mis-matched to the PLA under compression/tension.
@@FunctionalPrintFriday Make a big cube with it set for cubic infill and then look at one of the layers in the slicer preview to see how it prints. I haven’t worried about nozzle contact yet, which isn’t to say I shouldn’t, I suppose. When do you think you might consider that a concern?
@@ClaytonMacleod PETG is the big one. Fails the majority of the time if paths cross. PLA not usually an issue as long as it's not a tall structure with small footprint.
@@FunctionalPrintFriday The failure type is being knocked off the bed? I’ve only ever had that kind of failure when something was as you say, very tall relative to its footprint. But even that can easily be mitigated by adding some kind of support structure to block horizontal movement, like a sail with minimal contact points along its height.
@@ClaytonMacleod yeh, knocked off bed, or just movement relative to the base, causing accuracy issues. Again, not a problem for PLA the majority of the time.
He has lightburn for the laser he used in the bonus video. Lightburn can trace images very accurate and then export to dxf directly. But your idea is sound.
I would have capped it so it didnt move over the knob. It would have captured the knob and I would have removed another .4 mm and just increased the circle diameter a bit. A near press fit. You could have also screwed through my cap into the knob for a permanent handle
Again an excellent instructional video about 3D printing. However, the reason that the bandsaw doesn’t have a big metal hexagon for a spanner / wrench is because best practice is to tension the blade when the machine is running. I think you will find the plastic knob will be much easier to turn when the blade is running.
That makes sense, but the hang tag it shipped with just said tension BEFORE using the saw, but they probably meant before making a cut :P Either way the wrench makes the task a lot easier.
@@FunctionalPrintFriday Instructions should read "Tension blade with saw running but not under load or while making a cut. Anyway, tensioning with the motor spinning spreads the load/stresses on the blade and allows it to find its happy spot.
A good functional print that I recommend for anyone who prints or fabricates is a set of inside and outside radius gauges. Just a simple set of commonly used radii is amazingly helpful for projects like this.
I'd be tempted to add a couple magnets so you can store that right on the saw next to the tension indicator.
Good work.
I make stuff like this all the time. Print yourself a radius gauge (easy to find on Printables, Thangs, etc.) and you'll get a lot closer with the first prototype. Nice video.
I think almost all the CAD software packages allow you to import a picture and scale it. Take your phone or a camera and take a picture of the thing you are trying to mimic from as far away as you can with the zoom as high as your phone or camera can manage at that distance (and getting the whole object). If you include a ruler in the picture along side that object (or on top) you can set the scale of the image in your CAD software and model around the image. It may be easier than having a conveniently sized can of paint in your shop.
this is the best comment here. surprised he didnt like it
Just hadn’t seen it yet.
Or for easily removable parts, just put them on a flatbed scanner and scan it. No perspective error that way.
@@ClaytonMacleod Or in this case, make a hole on cardboard and cut to it from the side. Slide it under the knob and draw the shape. Get 1/1 copy for the scanner or camera
What is the reasoning behind being far away and zoomed in? Is that to minimize any distortion from the camera optics?
I've made things like this. A suggestion, make it slightly thicker and fill in 1 side so it's more like a socket (can't slip to far onto the knob) this will also help with strength and it will just be easier to use.
Yeah but you can also just add little retention wings above the tips, it'll be fine
3D prints are so much stronger than a lot of people expect. A while back I designed a dog pellet breaker to break some medically prescribed dog food down from huge pellets for a smaller dog. I use a hammer to strike a printed piston that breaks the pellet on a printed anvil twice a day for every pellet. I've hit that thing thousands of times with deliberate force, and the thing holds up like a champ.
It'll generally be a lot stronger in compression than tension. Especially what with layer adhesion.
The knob being that stiff implies to me that there is something you are supposed to be loosening before adjusting the knob. Some kind of lock bolt for a sliding mechanism or something. It may also be easier to turn while the saw is running.
Nice! I tend to start by lubricating the mechanisms first. Sometimes that's all it takes to make adjustment easier.
Then I'd look at either adding more diameter to the knob with a lever or handle to glue on top, or replace the existing knob completely. That means there's no extra loose part to misplace ad its always where you need it to be.
First thing I checked too, and the threads were well-greased. It's just more tension than I'm used to based on only having wood bandsaws before because there's no "tires" on the wheels. You're just stretching the blade on cast wheels.
I've done something similar but started with a straight-on photo. Brought it into Fusion, scaled it correctly, then it was easy to get all the radii correct. Thanks for the video.
You can add 0.1mm cuts to get more strength. 0.1mm will fuse and add extra walls where you place them.
Used in Voron parts for example.
that's a really interesting idea!. . basically forcing more outer walls where you need it, but not wasting material where you don't
@@FunctionalPrintFriday if you offset the cuts below the top/bottom there will be no visual difference in the surface finish as well.
Nice job... It really is amazing what 3d printing has brought to this world..
A great technique for matching shapes such as the knob is to take a photo - as square on as possible. Import the photo into CAD, scaling on any convenient dimension. The photo then acts as a guide to match curves, etc. I have used this to match complex shapes in a couple of iterations.
Nice simple to the point video. That's what I mainly use my 3d printer for... fixes around the house and tools.
Thanks
That laser etching looked very good. 😃
Thx!
Or, and here's a thought, it has a locking screw for the tension and you need to release that before adjusting?
The two "clamp screws" are said to be loosened for adjusting blade tracking but I think there is an omission in manual for blade tension...
One beefy wrench...very neat...definitely help get more torque on that nut to tension the blade!
Keep em coming!!!!
My wife had trouble with the gas cap on her car and was asking random guys at the gas station for help. So I made her a wrench similar to this and she's happy. I actually made two types. One was just a big know that slipped over the cap for more leverage and the other was one with a handle. She likes the handle one better.
I love this!
A cool trick to model weird flat shapes is to take a camera, max the zoom to reduce parallax error, move as far as needes, and either place a refrence next to your part or take one refeerence dimension.
Oh that surprise at the end was sweet!!! Although I was really hoping you'd make a revision to add an enclosed back. For some reason that was really bothering me. Great video!
thx!
Yep, as bad as your OCD is, I too expect a reprint with a built in stop.😂
I suspect all you need to do is make the socket portion a few millimeters thicker and use that extra height to sweep the tips inboard at 45 degrees. 👍😎👍
@@FunctionalPrintFriday You could make a Snap-on backing plate/bar that clips onto the back of your final print. That turns in into a socket... and That way you can test your snap fit design and tolerance skills, and you don't waste plastic printing out a whole second one. As you know it's always So Gratifying when a part you make perfectly snaps where you want it to go. Especially when it does so on the first iteration!!
I liked your idea of potentially making it more like a socket. I probably would have also added some little round nubs, so that it sort of "snaps" on and off the handle, if it was a socket-style. But I totally understand all that would be overkill for a limited-use tool. Although, I have to admit the laser printing was a very nice touch 👌👍
Nice job, especially the engraving bonus, but I don't quite understand the need for it. I have a similar bandsaw and have no trouble tightening the blade with one hand. The block with the indicator is carrying the wheel with the blade. If you loosen it slightly it may be easier to adjust. Don't forget to tighten it again once the correct setten is achieved.
The very first fit looked like it was perfect. Didn't look like it would go on far enough to go past the knob but it looked far enough to turn it.
I love it when I can use my printer to solve a problem.
Don't get me wrong. I also like printing little decorative things, but when it's useful things, it feels like it was a good tool, not just a toy.
The web thickness between the points of the star shape and the corners where the wrench handle meet the end of the wrench are the most likely failure points.
One suggestion I would make would be to re-orient the star shape by rotating it inside the wrench design where there is a star point aligned with the center-line of the handle. This should increase the web thickness in the area where the handle meets the circular end making it even stronger.
Nice design and it looks very strong with the 6 inside and outside walls along with the infill.
Great idea
I've printed quite a few tools for one-off use. They worked brilliantly, just PLA and a tiny bit of thought in design and slicer use to give sufficient strength for the application.
My bet is that there are bolts you are supposed to loosen before adjusting the tension and tighten after.
Edit: looked at the machine exploded view in the manifacturer's manual, and there is a set screw, preloaded from factory. No locking bolts and none needed. It will eventually get loose and need readjusting, but in a none industrial context, it will probably be fine for a long while.
Yep. Those 2 bolts on top of the tension gauge are there to lock the tensionner. 11:00
Was my initial assumption as well, but one just holds the threaded block against the slide block, and the other sets blade tracking. It also loosens up when the blade is de-tensioned.
@@FunctionalPrintFriday Just checked the manual from the precision matthews website and it says to loosen those 2 bolts. I wouldn't take any chances since it will wear the tensioner.
@@ydefy1848what page? Been through the manual and not seeing that. I actually talked to their support as well (great ppl) and they said there was just the plastic knob.
@@FunctionalPrintFriday Page 11. Bottom left figure 23.
i noticed you have lines in your circular geometry, try the "arc fitting" option in your orca slicer for perfectly circular/radial prints
What 3d program is that? Great video.
I would add a spacer ring protruding on the back to stop it from sliding.
"Will I make it one full rotation?" then proceeds to lift the entire saw :D
I would print a ring over the star points to help the wrench stay in place.
Very cool. Which Laser are you using, I’m guessing Xtool F1?
which software are you designing with? looks way more user friendly than the other CAD softwares i've seen
One thing I haven't seen a comment about yet is your z-seam position. It can be a failure location and I see it on the outside still near the drive, so it would probably have been better moved down towards the handle.
Great video, I thought the wrench was going to break when you tighten it up. You could engrave on a recessed part clockwise to tension counterclockwise to loosen. Look forward to your next video.
You always make awesome stuff. It just pains me to see sketchup for what you’re doing, especially for iterative designs.
Add your channel logo in that recess area like a commercial wrench would have. If remaking. I would go with the socket concelt you mentioned.
Yes, it'll tension, I say. 😊
Good work, keep it up.
I'd have made 3 or 6 tabs, as a stop, I guess. Except of that, same same.
You should be tensioning that blade with the machine RUNNING.
Did you losen the locking nuts first before adjusting the knob? Asking for a friend.
I have been making this style wrenches for a few years now, perfect application for 3d printing. It was a challenge figuring out what material to use as PLA shattered and PETG and ABS was too soft. Ended up with carbonfill from formfutura
That's surprising to hear. I've had really strong prints with plain old PLA as long as I don't push the speed too far and compromise layer adhesion.
@@FunctionalPrintFriday maybe my application required more force or my design was flawed
instead of doing 6 walls, could just do 3 walls at 200% LW. in theory takes less time assuming your now maxing out the flow rate of your material. But i do this just to reduce wear on my printer and often save just a tiny bit of time, being that you are using a bamboo printer prob not a whole lot but still some.
I'm definitely not the kind of person who questions the people doing the filming because sometimes it doesn't make sense to share the whole backstory, but I wondered something immediately about the wheel tension mechanism. I didn't see it mentioned elsewhere in the comments, so I don't think I'm repeating anybody else. Did you check the bolts where the hub of the wheel attaches to the casting? It doesn't seem impossible that those are too tight, causing it to be difficult to adjust. It's worth popping the blade off to see if it is still difficult to turn the knob, because it shouldn't be. Sorry for my assumptions on this if you checked already!
Great question. As I take the tension off the blade with the wrench it gets easier to turn. It's only when coming up to tension that it's hard to turn. It's easier to turn when the saw is running (which is the preferred method), but the wrench still makes it MUCH easier.
Nice vid, I also always struggle to fit something to real world objects. Always good to make simple fit models to dial in. @FPF which design tool do you use? And the inner part lettering is a sticker?
Sketchup, and nope, not a sticker :)
I dug the bonus footage. Was type of laser did you use?
Same. I'm hoping a bonus video with more info will follow.
Can't say yet, but a vid will definitely be coming. I actually have two different new lasers to look at on the channel. One that cuts through THICK wood like it's not even there, and one that I used on that wrench. Very different machines, both invaluable to have in the maker-shop.
Yeah I would like to know as well but I’ll be patient looking at getting one in the future
@@VanoverMachineAndRepairhilarious, I just read your comment on my phone, while watching your video on the welding rotaries on my TV, before i looked at the username :). Huge fan of your channel. I’ll reach out.
A little superglue and a sammich bag give you a backstop that you wouldn't need to reprint
Think the easiest way when copying a two dimensional shape is to just take a photo of it. Then measure it and scale the photo to match that measurement in cad, and just use that to trace the shape.
Very nice!
great video!!
Nice design.
Seems like a pain to line up though. Socket style would make it more fun to use for sure (and stronger probably)
Also prime use case for petg as it's tougher
I did make a wrench for my lathe to lock the spindle. It still works...
I would have taken a picture of the knob straight on. Then measure the lowest diameter. Put the photo in fusion as a canvas, and then Calibrate the canvas with your measurement. Now you can outline the canvas and be super close without any other measurements (though I usually like to further calibrate)
I usually do 9999 walls and 0% infill for functional parts. There is a video where tests different parameters and this is the strongest.
I would have filled the top. Gives you a way to press against the wrench to keep it locked on the nut! No print problems too because you could print that flat area against the build plate.
might do another one like this
@@FunctionalPrintFriday The etching / dye removal with I assume is a laser looked fantastic. I've tried with matte PLA and my UV galvo laser and no luck, but oh boy would I love to get something working to the quality you got! Looking forward to the video!
@@MoonWind32690 I'll have a video coming out later this month showing the machine and settings I used
I'd have added an enclosed stop, like a socket (as you suggested), and printed the whole thing at 100% infill.
I think 100% infill might be overkill, but otherwise I agree
When you have a hammer, every problem is a nail.
Why not swap the knob for a bolt?
The knob is clearly INTENDED to be turned by hand, else the nut would be steel and they should have given you a wrench. Makes me think the tolerances might be off in the mechanism.
You could have changed the tension knob for a normal screw then use a normal wrench when this one disappears or breaks because plastic breaks years down the line.
Not a bad idea, but It's on a long threaded shaft. I could certainly make a new one on the lathe, but there's not enough thread left on the stock part if I cut the plastic knob off, and it doesn't seem to want to come off the threads otherwise.
I might have missed it, but what material is it made out of?
PLA
I have a cricut machine. I like to design my stuff in fusion 360 then export to svg. I then cut with the cricut on cardstock then test fit. SOOOOO much faster than printing and wasting material.
more big benchy
Make it closed on one side for even sturdier design 👍
I needed a 3” hex wrench to fix a plumbing problem. I found a wrench for $35 and would probably only use it only once. So I got on autocad and a couple hours later I had a new 3” hex wrench to fix my problem. Total cost 2hr design time 1hr printing time and $16cents in filament.
If I could hit the heart twice, I would. Feel free to share pics, etc. on the discord or subreddit if you like
Put a piece of paper behind knob, take a profile pic of knob, make svg, import to fusion, scale to size, extrude svg to knob thickness, make tool around extruded svg, export 3d to slicer, print. Print wrench at 100%
Justput normal screw in ?
The handle on the doall I used was a larger wheel to tension the blade. Maybe make one like that?
another great alternative
You won't cut that with an angle grinder. Run a ton a coolant on that and it will be like cutting butter. I tried to cut 4140 about that diameter with an arbor mill before deciding that it fedexd here from hell itself. Never managed to cut it. I still have it.
lol!
Why wouldn't I? Of course I do print wrenches ...
I wouldn't download a car either would I?
Lets pretend you put a pivot bar(just a pole) in one of the points of your wrench. Then you put a full door/stop/face that pivots on that bar. Then you would have a wrench that can be turned intoa socket, or back into a wrench, right?
Now pretend you did that on both sides, or just made one side a full on socket and left the "door" on the other side.
Now you can put the wrench on for extended periods of time and dont have to go looking for it.
You just have a bigger handle at that point lol
Interesting video, and I'm glad you got it to work, but I think it's a bandaid solution. If you're having that much trouble turning the knob on your new saw, you need to clean those threads out with a tap. Also, why so much guesswork? You have measurement devices. Why did it take two attempts to get the snug fit after the initial prototype?
What is the filament?
Bambu PLA Basic
I mean, I didn't license it or anything, but that's the step by step design process of my GMC/Chevy Radiator Cap wrench(i also made a ford one).....
Ummm why don’t ya just trace the knob on paper scan turn the image into a stl add handle. Done oyyyyyy
Electroplate it to look like metal :)
it sounds like a good idea, and for a shelf queen this would probably look great, but I think anywhere on the wrench that it flexes or "gives" a small amount at the contact points the plating would probably crack because it's properties are mis-matched to the PLA under compression/tension.
@@FunctionalPrintFriday Absolutely, not practical. It was more a "for fun" idea.
@@rilock2435 understood
Cubic infill is strongest, by the way.
Appreciate that, but doesn't it overlap the same as grid? I guess for PLA it probably doesn't matter, but likely more prone to nozzle contact, no?
@@FunctionalPrintFriday Make a big cube with it set for cubic infill and then look at one of the layers in the slicer preview to see how it prints. I haven’t worried about nozzle contact yet, which isn’t to say I shouldn’t, I suppose. When do you think you might consider that a concern?
@@ClaytonMacleod PETG is the big one. Fails the majority of the time if paths cross. PLA not usually an issue as long as it's not a tall structure with small footprint.
@@FunctionalPrintFriday The failure type is being knocked off the bed? I’ve only ever had that kind of failure when something was as you say, very tall relative to its footprint. But even that can easily be mitigated by adding some kind of support structure to block horizontal movement, like a sail with minimal contact points along its height.
@@ClaytonMacleod yeh, knocked off bed, or just movement relative to the base, causing accuracy issues. Again, not a problem for PLA the majority of the time.
Or you could’ve just taken a picture of it with a ruler and adjusted it in photoshop before exporting as an svg to then convert it to a the model.
He has lightburn for the laser he used in the bonus video. Lightburn can trace images very accurate and then export to dxf directly. But your idea is sound.
@@00fiks82 pfffffffftt you don't know that. . . but, yes :P
It will work for a short time then break if its PLA. Try using stronger material. Nice work though. Keep doing this ! :D
Will update if it breaks, but I don't think it will. Layer adhesion is really good and it won't be held under tension.
I would have capped it so it didnt move over the knob. It would have captured the knob and I would have removed another .4 mm and just increased the circle diameter a bit. A near press fit. You could have also screwed through my cap into the knob for a permanent handle
Lasers 🥽 can’t wait to see how you did the marking