I’ve had mine for over 3 years, mine shows all the same signs of rust from salt water. I’ve used it so much that it has paid for itself twice over. I like it and recommend it to anyone who has a old town kayak because they r not light and the cheaper carts won’t last.
I think it's worth the price. Using it in SW you should have known you would have to use marine guard lubricant on the hardware. After 2 years of use, as long as the issues are easily replaceable, it's not really an issue. I would give WS some feedback on using stainless hardware. :)
Agree with Wilderness Systems choice on the use of inexpensive Hardware. Good news is JC all the parts including the tire Quick Release pins, the plastic Thumb Screws, and the ripped top looks like EVA use for Rod Building, Grips. You could prob get her looking like new for less than 30.00.
Thank you for your review. I found it to be very informative. I do agree that for salt water use, all hardware should be SS. That being said, on Amazon where they feature this cart, "Sand, salt & dirt will damage components over time. Rinse off after every use" There's your sign.
My point is that for the amount of money the cart costs the company should be using stainless steel, then there's NEVER an issue. I always rinse my gear off with freshwater. The problem is that when a person launches a kayak in saltwater there's not freshwater available to rinse anything off until the trip is over. Sometimes it's 12 hours before the cart gets rinsed off. The cart's bolts rusting are not my fault at all, it's poor design by the manufacture.
WD40 with silicone is great for loosening things up. Best move would be to replace the parts with stainless and lube the connections with silver anti-seize (the same stuff that mechanics use on brakes assemblies).
I agree but honestly no one builds a better cart that I know of. The good news is that all the parts are relatively inexpensive and easy to change out. Even the MinnKota trolling motor shear pins rust without using a protective coating. I've been using my cart for the same amount of time but I absolutely don't fish as much as you. I never rinse my cart and very seldom rinse my kayak or motor. I use CRC Marine Heavy duty corrosion stopper on my shear pins and metal parts I don't want to rust. It's the only thing that really works for me. You are the absolutel best JC. Good to see you overe that 61,000 subs mark. Keep it coming.
Like your comments. I have looked at that cart because I am unhappy with the C-tug. However, penetrating oil or Triflow would probably solve your stuck bolts. Let it soak. If it's really stuck, maybe overnight. Using a pipe wrench on plastic thumb nuts is a little over the top!
I was so impressed with your response I purchased this kayak cart. Guess what? It came with stainless bolts. Stamped right on the head A2-70. A2 is 304 stainless.
I agree with you Rad;I have one and having the same problem and also now wishing it came with a kickstand because of how high I have to lift the kayak to load it on to the cart.
How much do you think they saved by choosing plain steel over stainless? Couple bucks maybe? It just goes to show that couple bucks is worth more to them than turning out a quality product. Not to mention their customers having to deal with seized hardware.
Use rust penetrating spray to break the seized bolts, a wire brush/sandpaper to clean them, and rust neutralizer on the hardware. Same principal as working on a car. Anti-seize grease will keep them from seizing in the future. But yes, they should have use stainless steel.
My opinion yep they should have used stainless knowing it will be used in salt water. Use kroil penetrating oil on those bolts and let sit over night, kinds pricey but it works, good luck
Even if it was stainless steel they would have eventually got rust and corrosion on them. You should use any product but I personally use c r c rust inhibitor heavy duty. On anything and everything steal you'll never have an issue ever again.
My C tug is my favorite cart not that I got the sand track wheels and not they have a conversion to make it fit wider fishing hulls like yours. The original C tug wheels were garbage in less than a year but they keep getting better and no rust!
@FrankLadd Gts from Australia. I got sick of " universal fitting carts " that fit nothing but fit some kayaks if you modify the cart . Like you I'm a proud owner of Ctug with sand trax wheels . I have 4 yaks with different hulls & Ctug is great . A bit pricey but worth every penny😊
Hey awesome video! Question im looking to buy a kayak cart to use on my old town 132pdl do you have any brands you recommend? I was thinking about getting the wilderness but I dont want to run into those same issues thanks!
Vevor cart from home depot its 105 dollars, I had a few gift cards there so essentially free. I haven’t had the chance to use it since Ive always had someone to help me move my kayak
You admitted you rinsed it. Maybe 50 percent of of the time after use in salt water. Their instructions specifically say "Sand, salt & dirt will damage components over time. Rinse off after every use"
@@marklloyd3919 Thanks for watching the video and for sharing your opinion. I disagree, it's not on me. Here me out please. A premium priced cart in my opinion should have stainless steel fasteners. Literally 4 nuts and bolts...It wouldn't have made a difference If I'd rinsed it off every time after use in saltwater. If I launch the kayak in saltwater and go fishing for 10 hours that's 10 hours that the saltwater has seeped into the threads of the bolts and nuts before it gets rinsed off with fresh water.
Not surprising at all,almost everything today is made in chinajunkkazan. Being that,they probably did use a stainless but there are different qualities of stainless and the real low quality stainless does rust bad. Being a chinajunkkazan made product they more than likely used one of if not the lowest quality SS's produced. There isn't a cart sold that is worth the MSRP as with most anything produced today. At most there is only about $40 of materials in that thing. BTW,those pins on the wheels are called Lynch Pins and the one left on the axle is PTO Pins. Those PTO's should have been installed on a horizontal not vertical. Just get a long bolt,wingnut,and nyloc nut for each side. Install the bolt up through,add your wingnut,and then add the nyloc nut upside down (nylon insert towards wingnut) till the bottom of the nut is flush with the bolt. This will allow it to still be quickly adjustable and the nyloc will keep the wing from falling off if it ever becomes lose. You could even use this for the 4 plastic wingnuts. They shouldn't be hard to snap off since it is after all chinajunkkazan metal. They'll probably actually snap before the plastic wings do.,
$240 kart and they didnt use stainless steel?? gosh
I’ve had mine for over 3 years, mine shows all the same signs of rust from salt water. I’ve used it so much that it has paid for itself twice over. I like it and recommend it to anyone who has a old town kayak because they r not light and the cheaper carts won’t last.
I think it's worth the price. Using it in SW you should have known you would have to use marine guard lubricant on the hardware. After 2 years of use, as long as the issues are easily replaceable, it's not really an issue. I would give WS some feedback on using stainless hardware. :)
Agree with Wilderness Systems choice on the use of inexpensive Hardware. Good news is JC all the parts including the tire Quick Release pins, the plastic Thumb Screws, and the ripped top looks like EVA use for Rod Building, Grips. You could prob get her looking like new for less than 30.00.
Thank you for your review. I found it to be very informative. I do agree that for salt water use, all hardware should be SS. That being said, on Amazon where they feature this cart, "Sand, salt & dirt will damage components over time. Rinse off after every use" There's your sign.
My point is that for the amount of money the cart costs the company should be using stainless steel, then there's NEVER an issue. I always rinse my gear off with freshwater. The problem is that when a person launches a kayak in saltwater there's not freshwater available to rinse anything off until the trip is over. Sometimes it's 12 hours before the cart gets rinsed off. The cart's bolts rusting are not my fault at all, it's poor design by the manufacture.
It’s $95 right now
WD40 with silicone is great for loosening things up. Best move would be to replace the parts with stainless and lube the connections with silver anti-seize (the same stuff that mechanics use on brakes assemblies).
I think I would attempt to build one before I shelled out 240 clams.
I agree but honestly no one builds a better cart that I know of. The good news is that all the parts are relatively inexpensive and easy to change out. Even the MinnKota trolling motor shear pins rust without using a protective coating. I've been using my cart for the same amount of time but I absolutely don't fish as much as you. I never rinse my cart and very seldom rinse my kayak or motor. I use CRC Marine Heavy duty corrosion stopper on my shear pins and metal parts I don't want to rust. It's the only thing that really works for me. You are the absolutel best JC. Good to see you overe that 61,000 subs mark. Keep it coming.
Like your comments. I have looked at that cart because I am unhappy with the C-tug. However, penetrating oil or Triflow would probably solve your stuck bolts. Let it soak. If it's really stuck, maybe overnight. Using a pipe wrench on plastic thumb nuts is a little over the top!
I was so impressed with your response I purchased this kayak cart. Guess what? It came with stainless bolts. Stamped right on the head A2-70. A2 is 304 stainless.
Wow, that's good news.
Check out the c-tug hull rail conversion kit for the c-tug cart - those rails should work with your sportsman 106.
I agree with you Rad;I have one and having the same problem and also now wishing it came with a kickstand because of how high I have to lift the kayak to load it on to the cart.
How much do you think they saved by choosing plain steel over stainless? Couple bucks maybe? It just goes to show that couple bucks is worth more to them than turning out a quality product. Not to mention their customers having to deal with seized hardware.
just got a similar cart yesterday Thanx for the tip gonna go grease everything up real good
Use rust penetrating spray to break the seized bolts, a wire brush/sandpaper to clean them, and rust neutralizer on the hardware. Same principal as working on a car. Anti-seize grease will keep them from seizing in the future. But yes, they should have use stainless steel.
Agreed. I have the same cart and I love it, but the non-stainless hardware was my one complaint.
My opinion yep they should have used stainless knowing it will be used in salt water. Use kroil penetrating oil on those bolts and let sit over night, kinds pricey but it works, good luck
Even if it was stainless steel they would have eventually got rust and corrosion on them. You should use any product but I personally use c r c rust inhibitor heavy duty. On anything and everything steal you'll never have an issue ever again.
You almost lost me at the zip tie......but when you broke out the pipe wrench it was time to go.
Good morning happy Monday JC Happy fishing 🎣👍 JC you could spray it with WD 40 and let it sit it will loosen it up
My C tug is my favorite cart not that I got the sand track wheels and not they have a conversion to make it fit wider fishing hulls like yours. The original C tug wheels were garbage in less than a year but they keep getting better and no rust!
@FrankLadd Gts from Australia. I got sick of " universal fitting carts " that fit nothing but fit some kayaks if you modify the cart . Like you I'm a proud owner of Ctug with sand trax wheels . I have 4 yaks with different hulls & Ctug is great . A bit pricey but worth every penny😊
OMG J.C! i have the same cart and everything you said is all the problems ive had
I built my own kayak cart for $80. Works great! Not hard at all.
🤘🏻😎🤘🏻
Awesome, tote kart dude
Hey awesome video! Question im looking to buy a kayak cart to use on my old town 132pdl do you have any brands you recommend? I was thinking about getting the wilderness but I dont want to run into those same issues thanks!
what cart did you get? If you get the wilderness, just change those bolts and nuts before they get rusted.
Vevor cart from home depot its 105 dollars, I had a few gift cards there so essentially free.
I haven’t had the chance to use it since Ive always had someone to help me move my kayak
You need penetrating oil Rad Go get you some Double D40 or PB's nut blaster.
Does this cart float? Was thinking from the ramp install it while in the water and have it float up in place
No sure...I"m guessing no.
You should use WD40 before trying it
Stainless should have been used. Wouldn’t cost that much more. Especially at that price.
Think it's all on you ,
Interesting, why would you say that?
You admitted you rinsed it. Maybe 50 percent of of the time after use in salt water. Their instructions specifically say "Sand, salt & dirt will damage components over time. Rinse off after every use"
@@marklloyd3919 Thanks for watching the video and for sharing your opinion. I disagree, it's not on me. Here me out please. A premium priced cart in my opinion should have stainless steel fasteners. Literally 4 nuts and bolts...It wouldn't have made a difference If I'd rinsed it off every time after use in saltwater. If I launch the kayak in saltwater and go fishing for 10 hours that's 10 hours that the saltwater has seeped into the threads of the bolts and nuts before it gets rinsed off with fresh water.
NEXT VIDEO CATCH AND COOK COME ON 👍🏻👍🏻
Tractor Supply sells them
And Roll King
Not surprising at all,almost everything today is made in chinajunkkazan.
Being that,they probably did use a stainless but there are different qualities of stainless and the real low quality stainless does rust bad. Being a chinajunkkazan made product they more than likely used one of if not the lowest quality SS's produced.
There isn't a cart sold that is worth the MSRP as with most anything produced today. At most there is only about $40 of materials in that thing.
BTW,those pins on the wheels are called Lynch Pins and the one left on the axle is PTO Pins.
Those PTO's should have been installed on a horizontal not vertical. Just get a long bolt,wingnut,and nyloc nut for each side. Install the bolt up through,add your wingnut,and then add the nyloc nut upside down (nylon insert towards wingnut) till the bottom of the nut is flush with the bolt. This will allow it to still be quickly adjustable and the nyloc will keep the wing from falling off if it ever becomes lose.
You could even use this for the 4 plastic wingnuts. They shouldn't be hard to snap off since it is after all chinajunkkazan metal. They'll probably actually snap before the plastic wings do.,
great ideas! thanks