Please don't take this the wrong way as I'm only trying to help, love your vids btw :), so you need more solder in the wires 1st and then keep the soldering iron on the plug but then feed more solder in, although the wire seems fixed the way you have done it will make a cold solder connection and it will come off later this could be very dangerous also you don't have a complete connection and it can cause heat to build up. There are also 2 types of ec5 and the other type is better but you have to slide the blue cover on the wires 1st, this is better as the pins will never push out as you connect them :)
Thank you soo much for the help and video!!! I converted 20 batteries to EC5, but couldn't figure out how to install the male end connectors into the housing when attempting to replace the connector on the Rc trucks. Five videos latter your video popped up. I am new to the channel, but for now on I will be coming here first for all my RC questions and info.
One modification on this is at 6:00 in the video is to keep the soldering iron on the edge of the connector as you stick the wire in. This will allow the iron to cook the solder more as the wire and connector are joined.
Nice tutorial. The thing is that working on wires on RC cars is always uncomfortable. Sometimes you don't have a good position for the work, wires are too short, they don't stay in the way you want and you need to be a Martian with 6 arms...... The preparation work (clear and comfy working space, clamps of any size...) is longer and more important than the soldering itself. Ciao
Awesome Video. I’ve soldered so many connectors from EC5s, Tplug XT90S, XT60s and the Q8S with and without end caps so need for shrink wrap never had a problem until EC5 I hate them so much. But this video helped a lot everyone tells and shows a different way. Seems u got it locked and perfected👍🏻. Thanks for sharing
Yeah when I first tried to solder EC5 it was a horror show. It looked impossible without a torch. But have done it now a few times and they held up. Put more solder than I did on the video and hold the iron to the connector when sticking the wire in to cook the solder stew. :)
I just started soldering my own stuff too, after I saw what the hobby store was trying to charge. Live and learn all do all the mistakes possible, it would be cheaper in long run.
@@RCReviewChannel $15 PER plug. If you add all the plugs and the additional hardware, it's like $75. I would rather learn how to solder than pay $75 for some else to do the work. And use that money for more parts LOL.
Please - make sure your flux paste is acid free (rosin flux paste) when soldering any sorts of electric connections, wires etc. regular flux paste contains acids that will corrode your connections over time. that paste is meant for non-electric applications, like soldering metal sheets, whatever. Your solder already contains "rosin" which is a flux that won't harm electric/electronical connections. So a paste is usually not needed at all.
Very, very good info. Thank you. This is my current flux. www.amainhobbies.com/miniatronics-rosin-soldering-flux-paste-2oz-mnt1065002/p117398 The old one was highly corrosive as the can it was in kept rusting over time.
just go for XT60 or XT90. . You can do it without looking. You have a better chance of soldering it all around. On the other hand, EC5 is more difficult to have a good solder. you can't just expect to melt the solder and hope that it will have a good solder. With Xt90, you can actually see the solder forming around the connection.
I use XT60 for small batteries. Surprisingly, most of the big batteries I buy or given to me for test have EC5. Works really well and has a secure hold. Great too that it is compatible with IC5, which is what all Arrma and Spektrum seem to use now. I used to avoid EC5 because of the soldering, but now it is really fast and reliable for me. But I do like XT90 as well as soldering is easy, just like IC5
Does that “smart technology” wire do anything important? I know it’s used when you have Spektrum G2 batteries installed so it can read voltage to the DX3 transmitter. I’m running a RadioLink RC8X transmitter and receiver now with the inline telemetry JST cable to show my battery voltage on the RC8X. So my question is… I hate the 2 IC5 battery connectors because I only run one big 6s battery and want to get rid of the addition IC5 battery lead. But both the battery leads from the ESC have that little “smart tech” wire. 1 on the positive wire, and 1 on the negative wire leaving the ESC. Can I just remove both of those little smart tech wires since I don’t need them to show my battery voltage anymore since I use the radiolink for that? Or does those little smart tech wires have another important purpose? Other than just showing battery vintage on the DX3 transmitter/remote? Thanks a lot! Your content has helped so much in my RC journey. So thank you! 🙏
And this, my firiends, is how to do a cold solder! 1. add more solder 2. strip more wire 3. touch the exposed part of the wire while it's inserted in the bullet connector until ALL the solder melt
Does anyone know what gauge wire I need to put on a max6 ESC and make a Y connection for two batteries what gauge is that middle wire and does it have to be a negative or a positive wire or does it matter??
Ive been getting a lot of electronics for my crawlers lately and i neeed to kearn how to solder and get a good solder gun setup, i just got a new tekin rx4 roc412 1800kv system, and i have a new Holmes Hobbies brushless puller pro stubby 2700kv i am trying to figure out what esc is the best for Holmes hobbies brushless motors. Any info would be appreciated greatly and thanks for the info man, i also have 3 brand new hobbywing system 2 axe systems one 2700kv And one 1400kv, i also have the 2-1 1800kv fusion. Im running vanquish 3 gear transmission in all my rigs also, my "rock pirate build including the new interceptor chassis" also my capra 4ws has the vanquish 3 gear transmission kit. Have vanquish axles on both rigs also. So i dont wanna cheap out on electronics im always swapping around looking for sweet spots and just different driving styles and what not lol 🙃 😅
For Holmes Hobbies motors, the best is Castle Hobbies. The Copperhead is specifically designed for crawlers and can go to 4s size batteries. The Mamba X is the old staple but is big and more powerful than needed. Folks with small power needs go with the Mamba Micro (sensored or non-sensored).
How can i replace the entire esc wire? The wire that goes from esc to the battery got hit by the spur gear cause i tucked it in the wrong spot still runs and using electric tape atm but id like to replace the entire wire i cannot for the life of my find any videos on it
cut it? lol. either cut it really short like this bozo did or leave it as long as possible and and zip tie it to either the + or - wire. either way put some heat shrink on the tip so it doesnt short out.
Maybe a bit more solder, and when I do these, I like to make sure the solder is extra hot just to be sure I won’t have a cold joint. I like using a mini torch, works faster and easier. I also would never try pressing the bullets into the connector using pliers on the wires 😬. Other than that, I feel you definitely have the concept figured out.
Youre gonna kill your wires gripping them that hard with pliers. Wedge a screw driver in on the top and tap it down, dont push the leads in using the wire
theres no way you have a good connection on those connectors, they are cold as fuck. aslo a dumb move cutting the sensor wire so short. leave it as long as possible and put some heat shrink on the tip so it doesnt short out (something you should have done anyway) and zip tie it to either the + or - wire. the way you did you will never have the option of using a smart battery.
You’re the only person talking about that sensor wire! Please help! I want to simply get rid of the second IC5 connector because I only run one 6s battery (not two 3s batteries). And that extra connector just gets in the way and is useless. I do have Spektrum G2 smart batteries. But I run a RadioLink transmitter (remote) and receiver. So I get battery voltage on my RadioLink remote anyways. Do I still need to keep that little sensor wire if I remove the second IC5 connector? Does it have a purpose other than displaying battery voltage on the stock Spektrum DX3 receiver? Thank you in advance!
get a blow tortch it will take like 30s to do the job! and it will be like it was make with it.. ok after watching the video that's a bad job LOL IM SORRY BUT IT IS....
@@RCReviewChannel it might be easier for the wire but i use the blow tortch and as long as you don't get the wire on fire it's better in my opinion! the only part where you messed up is when you put it in before it dries that's going to make a bad joint.
@@christiansrcs7789 There is some risk of a cold solder joint this way, which is brittle and has higher resistance, because of stuffing the cold wire into the hot connector. If you are going to use an iron, a more consistent method would be to use a wedge-shaped tip that allows you to heat the connector and the wire at the same time (connector on the bottom, wire on top) until both are fully liquid, then smash them together while they are still liquid.
that is NOT the right way to solder lol. When you liquify the bullet connect and push the wire in, you need to liquify the solder on the wire as well! You just cold jointed two seperate solder joints lol...
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 88 | คู่เอก "ป้อมเพชร vs อัสลามจอน"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/1ZqTVVbMgbo/mqdefault.jpg)
Please don't take this the wrong way as I'm only trying to help, love your vids btw :), so you need more solder in the wires 1st and then keep the soldering iron on the plug but then feed more solder in, although the wire seems fixed the way you have done it will make a cold solder connection and it will come off later this could be very dangerous also you don't have a complete connection and it can cause heat to build up. There are also 2 types of ec5 and the other type is better but you have to slide the blue cover on the wires 1st, this is better as the pins will never push out as you connect them :)
Thank you. It’s good to know that I’m not the only one that manufactures these wires this way. thanks for the cool video. I like the ending a lot.
Glad to help
Thank you soo much for the help and video!!! I converted 20 batteries to EC5, but couldn't figure out how to install the male end connectors into the housing when attempting to replace the connector on the Rc trucks. Five videos latter your video popped up. I am new to the channel, but for now on I will be coming here first for all my RC questions and info.
I use a bigger (5 or6) allen key and hammer it in gently. With it in a vice.
One modification on this is at 6:00 in the video is to keep the soldering iron on the edge of the connector as you stick the wire in. This will allow the iron to cook the solder more as the wire and connector are joined.
Nice tutorial. The thing is that working on wires on RC cars is always uncomfortable. Sometimes you don't have a good position for the work, wires are too short, they don't stay in the way you want and you need to be a Martian with 6 arms...... The preparation work (clear and comfy working space, clamps of any size...) is longer and more important than the soldering itself. Ciao
Awesome Video. I’ve soldered so many connectors from EC5s, Tplug XT90S, XT60s and the Q8S with and without end caps so need for shrink wrap never had a problem until EC5 I hate them so much. But this video helped a lot everyone tells and shows a different way. Seems u got it locked and perfected👍🏻. Thanks for sharing
Yeah when I first tried to solder EC5 it was a horror show. It looked impossible without a torch. But have done it now a few times and they held up. Put more solder than I did on the video and hold the iron to the connector when sticking the wire in to cook the solder stew. :)
@@RCReviewChannel thank you so much I appreciate your help thanks for helping the R/C community
I just swapped all of my lipos & ESCs to IC5. So much easier to solder than EC5, and backward compatible with EC5 connectors
I just started soldering my own stuff too, after I saw what the hobby store was trying to charge. Live and learn all do all the mistakes possible, it would be cheaper in long run.
How much were they charging?
@@RCReviewChannel $15 PER plug. If you add all the plugs and the additional hardware, it's like $75. I would rather learn how to solder than pay $75 for some else to do the work. And use that money for more parts LOL.
Please - make sure your flux paste is acid free (rosin flux paste) when soldering any sorts of electric connections, wires etc. regular flux paste contains acids that will corrode your connections over time. that paste is meant for non-electric applications, like soldering metal sheets, whatever.
Your solder already contains "rosin" which is a flux that won't harm electric/electronical connections. So a paste is usually not needed at all.
Very, very good info. Thank you. This is my current flux. www.amainhobbies.com/miniatronics-rosin-soldering-flux-paste-2oz-mnt1065002/p117398
The old one was highly corrosive as the can it was in kept rusting over time.
just go for XT60 or XT90. . You can do it without looking. You have a better chance of soldering it all around. On the other hand, EC5 is more difficult to have a good solder. you can't just expect to melt the solder and hope that it will have a good solder. With Xt90, you can actually see the solder forming around the connection.
just get a blow tortch and the ic5 will be so eazy to solder 😂 but i run xt90 it's so good on 2s lipo and on 4s lipo
I use XT60 for small batteries. Surprisingly, most of the big batteries I buy or given to me for test have EC5. Works really well and has a secure hold. Great too that it is compatible with IC5, which is what all Arrma and Spektrum seem to use now. I used to avoid EC5 because of the soldering, but now it is really fast and reliable for me.
But I do like XT90 as well as soldering is easy, just like IC5
I know this is old but you need ic5 to run big boy batteries and esc
Does that “smart technology” wire do anything important? I know it’s used when you have Spektrum G2 batteries installed so it can read voltage to the DX3 transmitter.
I’m running a RadioLink RC8X transmitter and receiver now with the inline telemetry JST cable to show my battery voltage on the RC8X.
So my question is… I hate the 2 IC5 battery connectors because I only run one big 6s battery and want to get rid of the addition IC5 battery lead.
But both the battery leads from the ESC have that little “smart tech” wire. 1 on the positive wire, and 1 on the negative wire leaving the ESC.
Can I just remove both of those little smart tech wires since I don’t need them to show my battery voltage anymore since I use the radiolink for that? Or does those little smart tech wires have another important purpose? Other than just showing battery vintage on the DX3 transmitter/remote?
Thanks a lot! Your content has helped so much in my RC journey. So thank you! 🙏
And this, my firiends, is how to do a cold solder!
1. add more solder
2. strip more wire
3. touch the exposed part of the wire while it's inserted in the bullet connector until ALL the solder melt
hi my friend what is that skiny gray wire on esc or ec5 conector what does do?is that important wire
Does anyone know what gauge wire I need to put on a max6 ESC and make a Y connection for two batteries what gauge is that middle wire and does it have to be a negative or a positive wire or does it matter??
12 awg or 10 awg but definitely try to go for 10 gauge if you can to prevent heat buildup
Ive been getting a lot of electronics for my crawlers lately and i neeed to kearn how to solder and get a good solder gun setup, i just got a new tekin rx4 roc412 1800kv system, and i have a new Holmes Hobbies brushless puller pro stubby 2700kv i am trying to figure out what esc is the best for Holmes hobbies brushless motors. Any info would be appreciated greatly and thanks for the info man, i also have 3 brand new hobbywing system 2 axe systems one 2700kv And one 1400kv, i also have the 2-1 1800kv fusion. Im running vanquish 3 gear transmission in all my rigs also, my "rock pirate build including the new interceptor chassis" also my capra 4ws has the vanquish 3 gear transmission kit. Have vanquish axles on both rigs also. So i dont wanna cheap out on electronics im always swapping around looking for sweet spots and just different driving styles and what not lol 🙃 😅
For Holmes Hobbies motors, the best is Castle Hobbies. The Copperhead is specifically designed for crawlers and can go to 4s size batteries. The Mamba X is the old staple but is big and more powerful than needed. Folks with small power needs go with the Mamba Micro (sensored or non-sensored).
@@RCReviewChannel thanks man, i appreciate it, i think i might go with the copperhead. 🤙
How can i replace the entire esc wire? The wire that goes from esc to the battery got hit by the spur gear cause i tucked it in the wrong spot still runs and using electric tape atm but id like to replace the entire wire i cannot for the life of my find any videos on it
You would have to open the esc case and replace the wire soldered onto the board.
How do you solder xt90 to the spectrum esc I don’t know what to do with the smart wire
cut it? lol. either cut it really short like this bozo did or leave it as long as possible and and zip tie it to either the + or - wire. either way put some heat shrink on the tip so it doesnt short out.
That will make a cold solder joint
The way you CRUSHED those wires as you shoved em into the housing... I wouldn't trust em after that...
Maybe a bit more solder, and when I do these, I like to make sure the solder is extra hot just to be sure I won’t have a cold joint. I like using a mini torch, works faster and easier. I also would never try pressing the bullets into the connector using pliers on the wires 😬. Other than that, I feel you definitely have the concept figured out.
Absolutely. Great suggestions.
saludos Amigo feliz noche
I have seen this method fail. The wires must be heated, if it's cold plunged, solder may not flow between both the wire and the connector
That looks like the same track RazorRC uses.
It is
Looks like Calabasas BMX park
Anyone looking to solder ec5 themselves don’t do this. Just use torch method it works a lot easier and stronger
Youre gonna kill your wires gripping them that hard with pliers. Wedge a screw driver in on the top and tap it down, dont push the leads in using the wire
Use thinker solder wire to get the job don faster.
Painful to watch. Maybe some hobbyists are used to that.
theres no way you have a good connection on those connectors, they are cold as fuck.
aslo a dumb move cutting the sensor wire so short. leave it as long as possible and put some heat shrink on the tip so it doesnt short out (something you should have done anyway) and zip tie it to either the + or - wire. the way you did you will never have the option of using a smart battery.
You’re the only person talking about that sensor wire! Please help!
I want to simply get rid of the second IC5 connector because I only run one 6s battery (not two 3s batteries). And that extra connector just gets in the way and is useless.
I do have Spektrum G2 smart batteries. But I run a RadioLink transmitter (remote) and receiver. So I get battery voltage on my RadioLink remote anyways.
Do I still need to keep that little sensor wire if I remove the second IC5 connector? Does it have a purpose other than displaying battery voltage on the stock Spektrum DX3 receiver?
Thank you in advance!
Sorry but you done these completely wrong
1:58 are you fucking kidding? the ic5 is .5mm wider and 4mm longer (per side) than the ec5.
Not F kidding. We've run it 20-30 times. Works fine except for the biggest jumps.
get a blow tortch it will take like 30s to do the job! and it will be like it was make with it..
ok after watching the video that's a bad job LOL IM SORRY BUT IT IS....
Not a bad suggestion for the final seal. Still need to put solder on the wire and in the connector with an iron though right?
@@RCReviewChannel it might be easier for the wire but i use the blow tortch and as long as you don't get the wire on fire it's better in my opinion! the only part where you messed up is when you put it in before it dries that's going to make a bad joint.
@@christiansrcs7789 There is some risk of a cold solder joint this way, which is brittle and has higher resistance, because of stuffing the cold wire into the hot connector. If you are going to use an iron, a more consistent method would be to use a wedge-shaped tip that allows you to heat the connector and the wire at the same time (connector on the bottom, wire on top) until both are fully liquid, then smash them together while they are still liquid.
@@rickrussell yeahhh that's what i do with my blow torch
yeah but you fuck up the ends...isnt there a wire push tool?
that is NOT the right way to solder lol. When you liquify the bullet connect and push the wire in, you need to liquify the solder on the wire as well! You just cold jointed two seperate solder joints lol...
You can also use a cigarette lighter as a holder . 🫡