I loved getting the instructions twice, once in a language I don't know so I could pay attention to the movements. This was a surprise to me. Very cool teaching technique. Your explanations are perfectly clear and your movements very precise. This was extreme clear and helpful. Thank you!
I have watched a quite a few of your vids...you make the best instructional vids on Nalbinding!!!! You're straight and to the point...nice....and informative!!!! Also you aren't full of misinformation like some of the other videos out there! Keep em coming! Luv it!
You have beautiful hands and describe the directions very well. I look forward to watching all of your videos as well as using your directions to renew my efforts to make a pair of socks using this method. Thank you. Please continue to upload new videos because they are so wonderful and helpful.
This is not directly related to this precise video. On your website, on a couple of stitches the F4 connection is noted. (I am here because it seemed like this might be one loop more on thumb and behind than "from Egypt (G. Böttcher) UUU/OOOO F4" to double check myself). But nowhere do I find anything that says if F4 is like F3 with one more old stitch, or possibly two new, two old. Would you be willing to help out?
I think I figured out a "backwards" way of doing this stitch. Uses index finger instead of thumb, and ends up left-right mirrored in comparison to the usual way in this example. I happened to make a video that covers that "odd" method along with some other things: th-cam.com/video/O0Eo-sQgWgo/w-d-xo.html Also wondering what thoughts are on this alternate approach? (I find the usual way more difficult given the way I tend to hold the fabric, and often end up dropping the loop. So had to come up some other trick to hold open the loop more consistently. Not sure if there's any downsides to it.)
I can follow what you say, my issue is that I measured the right size around my wrist, as I continue it seem to be smaller and smaller and tight.. you say that this stitch normally is very flexible where did it go wrong. I have pull out a numbers of time and still it didn't work out.
Veronica S Jakobsen Since I have not seen how your work (mitten/wristwarmer?) looks like, I can only try to guess reasons. Sometimes people pull the stitches little bit tighter, without even noticing it, when they get more used to the nalbinding technique. Try adding a few more stitches when you begin your work. - The widest part of the hand is at the root of the thumb (2nd joint). Try taking that measure and use it as a guideline for the mitten size. - Sometimes the nalbound fabric 'shrinks' when more rows are added to. The first row of stitches (or 'caterpillar') may be of perfect size, but after two or three rows, the size suddenly seems smaller. Try to start with a longer first row (more stitches in the first row).
Cal Bailes - Have you tried to google "nalbinding needle", and checked e.g. Etsy and eBay? Also local SCA people might be able to help, not to mention local handicraft / yarn shops.
Grab a stick, a knife, and some fine sand paper and they’re fairly easy to make yourself :) might take a couple tries to make one without it breaking but I threw together a handful of spares within an hour yesterday to teach some folks with. Sanding (or burnishing if you don’t have sandpaper) helps remove any little splinters that may catch the wool. I’ve also used darning needles for Oslo stitch when I didn’t have other options, but it would be worse for stitching stitches like this one where you tighten the loop on the needle for the stitch gauge.
I loved getting the instructions twice, once in a language I don't know so I could pay attention to the movements. This was a surprise to me. Very cool teaching technique.
Your explanations are perfectly clear and your movements very precise. This was extreme clear and helpful. Thank you!
I've watched several videos now, and this is the first one that has made this so clear. Your pleasant voice helps a lot too. Thank you!
You create excellent, clear instructions. Thank you so much! I have wanted to learn for a long time.
I have watched a quite a few of your vids...you make the best instructional vids on Nalbinding!!!! You're straight and to the point...nice....and informative!!!! Also you aren't full of misinformation like some of the other videos out there! Keep em coming! Luv it!
You have beautiful hands and describe the directions very well. I look forward to watching all of your videos as well as using your directions to renew my efforts to make a pair of socks using this method. Thank you. Please continue to upload new videos because they are so wonderful and helpful.
You taught me naalbinding so I thank you 😘 I love your videos. Very informative and straight to the point.
Many thanks for this tutorial! I think I finally have enough help to start my own nalbinding projects. :)
Is this the stitch used on that almost perfectly conserved pair of socks?
This is not directly related to this precise video. On your website, on a couple of stitches the F4 connection is noted. (I am here because it seemed like this might be one loop more on thumb and behind than "from Egypt (G. Böttcher) UUU/OOOO F4" to double check myself). But nowhere do I find anything that says if F4 is like F3 with one more old stitch, or possibly two new, two old. Would you be willing to help out?
I bought mine from Pagenreich through Amazon. Bone and very smooth.
I think I figured out a "backwards" way of doing this stitch. Uses index finger instead of thumb, and ends up left-right mirrored in comparison to the usual way in this example. I happened to make a video that covers that "odd" method along with some other things: th-cam.com/video/O0Eo-sQgWgo/w-d-xo.html
Also wondering what thoughts are on this alternate approach? (I find the usual way more difficult given the way I tend to hold the fabric, and often end up dropping the loop. So had to come up some other trick to hold open the loop more consistently. Not sure if there's any downsides to it.)
I can follow what you say, my issue is that I measured the right size around my wrist, as I continue it seem to be smaller and smaller and tight.. you say that this stitch normally is very flexible where did it go wrong. I have pull out a numbers of time and still it didn't work out.
Veronica S Jakobsen Since I have not seen how your work (mitten/wristwarmer?) looks like, I can only try to guess reasons. Sometimes people pull the stitches little bit tighter, without even noticing it, when they get more used to the nalbinding technique. Try adding a few more stitches when you begin your work. - The widest part of the hand is at the root of the thumb (2nd joint). Try taking that measure and use it as a guideline for the mitten size. - Sometimes the nalbound fabric 'shrinks' when more rows are added to. The first row of stitches (or 'caterpillar') may be of perfect size, but after two or three rows, the size suddenly seems smaller. Try to start with a longer first row (more stitches in the first row).
Now suddenly knitting makes sense..........
Where can I buy a nal?
Cal Bailes - Have you tried to google "nalbinding needle", and checked e.g. Etsy and eBay? Also local SCA people might be able to help, not to mention local handicraft / yarn shops.
+Cal Bailes Yorvik Center here in York sells them
Cal Bailes I lose them all the time. takes 5 minutes to whittle one up with a dowel rod and exacto knife
Grab a stick, a knife, and some fine sand paper and they’re fairly easy to make yourself :) might take a couple tries to make one without it breaking but I threw together a handful of spares within an hour yesterday to teach some folks with. Sanding (or burnishing if you don’t have sandpaper) helps remove any little splinters that may catch the wool. I’ve also used darning needles for Oslo stitch when I didn’t have other options, but it would be worse for stitching stitches like this one where you tighten the loop on the needle for the stitch gauge.