Thanks guys. What a fascinating process. It seems that "you want to get the heat just right," is a phrase I've heard in every hot glass class I've taken (and I've taken more than a few). When I'm lucky enough to take a class at The Studio, I always like to visit the other classes to watch different teachers' demos and get some ideas to take back into the hot shop. These live demos are great. Keep 'em coming. And I do appreciate that you leave the "live," unexpected, elements in the final video. And credit to Matt for a gracious, smooth recovery.
way to go with the flow on this pull! What a moment when the chain broke but still didn't stop ya! anyplace online we can view pieces made with this tubing?
Hi Alton Tisdale Sure, the photo is now posted to the event page on our website www.cmog.org/event/live-streamed-studio-demonstration-matt-tyner-0. Thanks!
A wooden block about 4-6 inches tall would be a perfect item to rest your forearm on for comfortable and more accurate leverage against the glass with your hand or tools. If the flammability of the wood is an issue, I bet you could make a very nice glass armrest.
woah, now Ive never realized that there are fixtures with rollers that will allow one to precisely rotate the workpiece. What do you call these, lamp working rollers? I want to machine a pair for myself, so I would like to google different designs.. Which ones are considered the best? ALSO what is the name of the device at 5:05 which is able to instantly change a smaller flame to a bigger flame? It seems to be a foot switch? This would be great instead of always having to manually lower the gas and fuel..... and then increase again when its go time... PRETTY FREEGIN COOL STUFF HERE GUYS, PRETTY DANG COOL. I want to increase my skills on my 3a blowpipe some more... The rollers are baad ass.
They are quite common for scientific flameworking, and have made their way into the art glass world. You can get them at many flame working tool and supply companies, such as Wale Apparatus.
one last thing lol. I couldn't find the part, but this guy dunks a red hot piece into something after he used it... Was that water and why did he do this? And will bork not fail under such extreme changes? (molten red hot to water?)
I believe it was water, and no - molten glass dunked into water will not instantly fail or break, it is quite common to dunk the very end of something you're pulling while it is very hot to "flash cool" the surface of the glass where you are planning on grabbing it and therefore make the middle of the setup stretch before the end where you're holding it does. Of course, if you leave it in the water too long, then yes, it will eventually cool too much and break.
Hey does anyone know why i always get grey stacks? Is it the strong vaccum i am using? its really annoying because i loose a lot of colour. It cannot be used after its melted, wich sucks. Thankful for any advice
Great question, I checked with our Studio and those particular bench rollers were custom made and aren’t available commercially. Many other similar versions can be found from companies like Wale Apparatus, Mountain Glass and ABR Imagery. ABR in particular carries a Herbert Arnold designed roller that is very similar.
That seems like a pain in the ass process to pull color, I do the same thing he does except use the vac stack, I use a graphite rod with color rods in my pattern and a rubber band and just slip it in by hand and melt it that way. Much easier and I get the same result, don't make it harder on yourself than it actually is.
When encasing in clear you both prevent boiling from more difficult to work with colors and you stretch your color out further than you would've, making more tubing.
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Thanks guys. What a fascinating process. It seems that "you want to get the heat just right," is a phrase I've heard in every hot glass class I've taken (and I've taken more than a few). When I'm lucky enough to take a class at The Studio, I always like to visit the other classes to watch different teachers' demos and get some ideas to take back into the hot shop. These live demos are great. Keep 'em coming.
And I do appreciate that you leave the "live," unexpected, elements in the final video. And credit to Matt for a gracious, smooth recovery.
That was an excellent demonstration. Perfectly narrated.
Awesome direction Matt, thank Corning for showing and sharing this. Kudos
Jesus 467 likes. Awful. Amazing demo.
I'm still trying to get past how straight he put that blowtube on. People that have never tried it don't realize that's a skill all its own.
Great Demo...Great recovery...Great artist! Thanks for sharing!!!
Never seen any one hang pull a vac stack solo before I love that
Well done Matt. " QUESTION "
Where did you get the adjustable torch mount ?
Im jelly
way to go with the flow on this pull! What a moment when the chain broke but still didn't stop ya! anyplace online we can view pieces made with this tubing?
Hi Alton Tisdale Sure, the photo is now posted to the event page on our website www.cmog.org/event/live-streamed-studio-demonstration-matt-tyner-0. Thanks!
Mountain Glass Arts. Or you can order from. The manufacturer, Pyrex or Simex
i watched the last 30 minutes with bluegrass music in the background, it was great thanks.
Please tell me how the burner is arranged from the inside ?
They screw that chain the plaster or something? Great video!!
So if the inner clear is 44x4....cpuld you then use that as your OUTER clear with more rods to creathing ANOTHER line section inside the first??
yoooo, that was fascinating, and i like how you recovered. #GoodTeacher #lessonlearned #gladiwatchedthis
A wooden block about 4-6 inches tall would be a perfect item to rest your forearm on for comfortable and more accurate leverage against the glass with your hand or tools. If the flammability of the wood is an issue, I bet you could make a very nice glass armrest.
woah, now Ive never realized that there are fixtures with rollers that will allow one to precisely rotate the workpiece. What do you call these, lamp working rollers? I want to machine a pair for myself, so I would like to google different designs.. Which ones are considered the best?
ALSO
what is the name of the device at 5:05 which is able to instantly change a smaller flame to a bigger flame? It seems to be a foot switch?
This would be great instead of always having to manually lower the gas and fuel..... and then increase again when its go time...
PRETTY FREEGIN COOL STUFF HERE GUYS, PRETTY DANG COOL.
I want to increase my skills on my 3a blowpipe some more... The rollers are baad ass.
They are quite common for scientific flameworking, and have made their way into the art glass world. You can get them at many flame working tool and supply companies, such as Wale Apparatus.
one last thing lol. I couldn't find the part, but this guy dunks a red hot piece into something after he used it...
Was that water and why did he do this? And will bork not fail under such extreme changes? (molten red hot to water?)
I believe it was water, and no - molten glass dunked into water will not instantly fail or break, it is quite common to dunk the very end of something you're pulling while it is very hot to "flash cool" the surface of the glass where you are planning on grabbing it and therefore make the middle of the setup stretch before the end where you're holding it does. Of course, if you leave it in the water too long, then yes, it will eventually cool too much and break.
Very good, I learn too much, thank you very much
very nice!!
Hey does anyone know why i always get grey stacks? Is it the strong vaccum i am using? its really annoying because i loose a lot of colour. It cannot be used after its melted, wich sucks. Thankful for any advice
hey and big thanks to matt! really nice demo!
What stand are you using or where can I get it
Great question, I checked with our Studio and those particular bench rollers were custom made and aren’t available commercially. Many other similar versions can be found from companies like Wale Apparatus, Mountain Glass and ABR Imagery. ABR in particular carries a Herbert Arnold designed roller that is very similar.
That moment...
Thanks for sharing....Ooooh! crap! It's all about trail and error...
That seems like a pain in the ass process to pull color, I do the same thing he does except use the vac stack, I use a graphite rod with color rods in my pattern and a rubber band and just slip it in by hand and melt it that way. Much easier and I get the same result, don't make it harder on yourself than it actually is.
When encasing in clear you both prevent boiling from more difficult to work with colors and you stretch your color out further than you would've, making more tubing.