Huben K1 - Full disassembly, operation explanation
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 เม.ย. 2016
- Full disassembly, where I explain the principle of the operation and comment on the quality of built
Please make a comment if you have any questions and let me know if you like those kind of videos. - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
![[UNCUT] ลูกหมี-ลิลลี่ เหงียน เปิดใจฟาด ปู มัณฑนา I คนดังนั่งเคลียร์ I 15 ก.ค.67](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/FKQ60Y7bJ6s/mqdefault.jpg)
nice, please keep us updated :) good luck with your videos
Thanks Gregor. This is very a nice "how does it work?" video...
gregor Thank you, I benefited a lot from this great video. Thank you very much
Personally, I benefited from your explanation. Thank you very much and don’t forget me to reply. I am waiting for your reply
There are a lot of similarities to my LCS SK-19 and this Huben. I absolutely love this gun and its accuracy with the polygonal barrel and tuneability. So far it has performed flawlessly and frequently take game out to 89 yards with ease. I tuned this gun to shoot the often forgotten and very effective and cheap.22 caliber Daisy Hollow Point pellets. The SK-19 holds a sub 1" group with them out past 50 yards at 900 fps in semi or full auto modes and the JSB pellets pretty much one hole in semi mode with the Hades. People say very misinformed things about this gun like ...the barrel will wear out or the magazine will eventually fail and not hold pellets anymore. They don't understand what materials this gun is made of. I don't know about the Hubens magazine but mine is made from titanium so it won't wear out from pellets for sure. As far as the barrel goes...Tom Gaylord once made a comment that airgun barrels last for a million rounds or more under normal conditions only shooting lead pellets. Thanks for this video. It has helped me to understand my SK-19 better.
I definitely agree about the barrels, they will most definitely not wear out! (unless you do something stupid like put something hard like a stone or sand in the magazine :)). I also have not concerns about the magazine, although I am not sure why they went with titanium for the magazine (I did hear this as well). Titanium is very expensive and hard to work on, steel on the other hand is still slightly stronger (in size to strength ratio) and very cheap. I assume they went with titanium because when wanted to make the magazine a little beefier while still having it relative lightweight.
I wanted to add, when I took a fast couple of shots at EBR with LCS, it seemed like a nicely built and accurate gun and I do not see any reason to have any concerns about its durability (but I guess time will tell...).
If you wouldnt mind could you possinly do a video on the difference between the k-1 trigger and the k-2. I would nice to see if it will have any similarity to the sk-19s trigger system and if I may be able to make any improvments or not. Thanks for your replys great videos.
Surprisingly simple mechanism. My only concern is there's many sealing surfaces to potentially leak. But that should be no problem as the orings are simple to replace. Tracking down the leak may be a problem though. Probably easier to replace many orings while its apart than trying to track down the one that leaks. Thanks for this video.
+616Haggard I should not be a problem tracking the leak. If the leak is from the barrel, there is only one option - main (opening) valve. The closing valve is open by default and even when closed (only for a traction of a second after taking the shot) it has an intentional leak... So closing valve is never the reason for a leak. It the leak is somewhere else, all you need to do is remove the stock and use some soap water and find where the leak is and then replace the o-ring / seal...
I struggled to follow your video .. I have to do the disassembly myself to work out what is going on . excellent video . I have viewed the animated video of the Huben and will need to get a rifle to check out the operating system .
Yeah, it is a complicated gun and quite hard to understand, but the animated video helps explain it...
No pain no gain :)
thank you gregor for the very nice and professional review of the lovely huben k1. and also to accepting the risk of putting this apart to discover the mechanism. looking forward to see the k1 performance after the barrel change.
in addition to choosing the right twist rate, using a bull barrel might lead to better long range performance of the gun I think at this power level there is a lot of stress on the barrel making it freely vibrating. how ever to do this you may need to widen those two holders.
impatiently waiting to see if the long range issue is just because of improper barrel selection. I then wonder how these geniuses failed in this obvious part of gun design.
I really appreciate the mechanism employed by huben. except for directly shooting from magazine.
+Amin Kaveh I agree on the bull barrel comment, I actually have a 17 mm diameter LW .22LR barrel but, I decide not to put it in because of the modifications needed to the holders (and also other parts, like shroud and cheek peace). Also the fact that the gun shoots well at close ranges lets me know that the bullet or pellet is exiting the barrel with accuracy and downrange accuracy is lost because of pellet / bullet instability (twist rate).
I think that they did not pay any attention to the barrel, they just pick what is considered the best of the best of air gun barrels without realizing that what they were building is closer to firearm than air gun.
I agree, but the direct firing from the magazine is the only way to have the valve directly behind the pellet and to be able to have big surface area of the valve with no transfer port... Steyr HUNTING 5 Automatic has the same principle and from what I hear it is very accurate.
+Gregor Kamenšek I agree with you not to do a lot of modifications just to put in the bull barrel. it is a wise desicion.
I am an enthusiast and love version 1 of every thing. hope the long range issue of this beast get corrected. then it may be the perfect pcp of the time. how ever in Iran I don't know when I can shoot one in Iran. 😉
+Amin Kaveh I am sorry to hear that. There are quite a few countries that cannot sell this rifle because of their firearm legislation. I am lucky that I live in a country where this is allowed but i do have to have a FAC in order to own one.
If the process of dismantling You can measure it with a vernier caliper A lot of people would appreciate that
Hello watched your video very exciting, but do not understand part of the sear, about the possibility of dismantling part of the trigger and the sear hook state excited state is very grateful
Hi Gregor can u do a fast video on repairing leaks and changing his orrings?? ,thanks
Do you think if the slug was a little longer it would be more stable or less stable ?
very informative.there seem to be some parts subject to wear though.how is the pellet transition from the magazine into the barrel, smooth? wondering if at high speeds there may be some damage done to the pellets.
+weweko kowe No damage is done to the pellet, I tested, there are 3 screws that can be used to align the barrel with the magazine very precise...
Hi Gregor, when do you calculate that you get the second version of the huben? And when you would have the second review, I am very anxious. regards
The second version is already out there as far as I know (at least in US). Huben said at IWA that they will start the paperwork when they return but it might take some time, I cannot say for sure when I will get it... Hopefully soon.
hi Gregor, do you have videos trying to shoot at long range? you mentioned that this rifle does not have good long range but sometimes if you don't regulate well the pellet with the air and velocity the shoot could could be varied. what do you think about that? don't you know if huben make improvement to the gun now?
Ye, actually Huben already improved it. Also watch my newer videos, you will already see improvements. I will have other videos that will explain exactly what you are asking. Unfortunately I do not have a range available to me more than 70 meters but I am working on a longer range...
Hi, I want to know the measurements of the tank, external diameter and internal diameter, and what material is made
There doesn't appear to be a probe or other mechanism to load the pellet into the barrel, so it would seem that the pellet resides in the magazine until fired. Are there seals on both sides of the magazine?
+Barls Charkley Yes, the pellet is fired from the magazine. there is a plastic seal with an o-ring in the back of the magazine (I have showed it in the video). this seals the back side and at the same time pushes the magazine forward. The magazine presses up against the barrel by this force, sealing the joint between the front on the magazine and barrel. There is no leak felt on the cheek on fire. I believe that Steyr Hunting 5 Automatic uses the same mechanism...
I have a wolverine 303 100ft pound pressure air rifle,can you advise me on the best regulator to get the best out of this rife. keep up the good videos, I think there the best out there . kind regards shane.
+Shane Marlowe Hi. I cannot say which one is the best since I have not tryed the all yet :). I work with Altaros and I love them. Just make sure you order the one with the big chamber (see my video on Wolverine)
Is not ment for pellets. It is more for slug.
Hi Gregor, thanks for the video and the explanations! It is probably asking for the obvious but in the brass part of the main valve (the one in line with the barrel) there appears to be a small hole. What is it for???? Thanks again and keep up the good work!
It is for venting the air when the brass/steel valve assembly is moving together and apart...
Thanks mate!
Hello Gregor, if you buy the Huben K1 and then get it, what energy is set there in advance? Where do you have to turn and in which direction clockwise do you have to turn to set full energy or minimum energy? Many thanks for an answer Klaus
That depends on where you are buying it. My suggestion for high power is, set the reg to 170 - 180 bars and turn the power wheel 2 revolutions from minimum (32 clicks). For low power, set the reg to about 100-110 bar and fully close the power wheel. Make sure you don't shoot slugs at lower power to prevent slugs getting jammed in the barrel...
how much price....
Hi to change the orring of the little ping (16.20sec) ...,i have to dissasembly all the rifle??? ,thanks
You have to drain the regulated cylinder by reducing the regulator pressure until it bleeds out all the air, remove the front pin in the stock, unscrew the power wheel and the internal part of the power wheel (you need to to this in order to remove the stock), remove the stock, remove the right plastic plate where you feed the pellets and they you will see the brass screw. unscrew it out completely and shake the gun a bit so the pin fells out or use a small tweezers... replace the oring on that pin and put everything back together, re pressurize by increasing the pressure on the regulator.....
Gregor, I've got a problem. My Huben k1 doesn't want to close after firing. What do you think I should look at for the problem?
Thanks. Don
It can be too low pressure for the pellet weight and too much opened power wheel. Try this first
@@gregorkamensek3923 thanks for the help!
+Gregor Kamenšek I have a Huben K1 and it seems to be losing air from the tank or the mechanism (approximately 70-80 bar within a week). Have you seen this behaviour before regarding this gun, and if so, do you know what may be wrong with it?
Hi. I have not have this problem yet. Slow leaks are a big pain in the a**. It will be quite a difficult task to search for the leak in any airgun. There are about 8 places where it can leak: My best guess is the one way valve at the will port. This is the only one you can check without disassembly of the gun. There are two ways to check. First you have to unscrew the fill port out of the cylinder. You can do this while the gun is pressurized. Then remove the filter form underneath the fill port (usually just a piece of crumpled paper). Then you can apply some sort of foam to the whole area where the fill port was screwed on and see if any bubbles form in time. It may take some time. You can use sawing foam or water with soap,... The other way is the same but instead of using foam put the end of the cylinder in water (you will have to remove the shroud first).
If this seem to hard to do, then you can try to fix the problem before you test it. When you fill the gun (you will have to use a scuba tank) release a big amount of air fast in the gun. Do this in short busts and wit in between for the cylinder to cool down. Release 20 - 30 bar bursts... This sometimes helps to fix the problem with one way valve on the fill port. If you cannot fix the problem this way, the I suggest you send it for repair. I can guide you through other possible points leak, but you will have to do this at your own risk and it will probably void you warranty.
Good luck
Thank you for your reply Gregor.
I have a suspicion that the problem may be with the pressure gauge fitting. What do you think is the best way to test this?
Also, what would be the safest way to completely empty the air tank and discharge any air from the firing mechanism?
Thanks and regards
Hi. Emptying the regulated cylinder is easy. Take a look at my video for cleaning the barrel:
th-cam.com/video/hymZgeJmXkM/w-d-xo.html
All you have to do is adjust the regulator to minimum and the air starts to gush out. Keep in mind that when you do that, the unregulated part of the cylinder is still pressurized.
It is easy to remove the pressure gauge: first drain the gun, then you have to find the pin that is preventing the gauge to rotate. it is to the front of the gauge in the small area between the gauge and the lever that releases the magazine for loading. You have to press this pin in and rotate the gauge CCW for 90°. This will release the gauge and you can take it out. Check the small O-ring and replace it if necessary...
Hello Gorge we have issue on broken magazine mechanism can you help me where to buy spare parts?
I get them from: www.hubenairguns.shop/collections/parts
If the part is not on this list, just write an email to info@hubenairguns.shop
damn,,, if i had to take a shot of whisky each time he used BASICALLY i would not finish this video,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, hehehehe
Better to use beer in this drinking game :)
Hi Gregor,
Do you know the size and thickness from the rubber oring that seals the opening valve? (part number 6)
Open Firing Valve O-Ring
11.6x1.8NBR90+Molybdenumdisulfide
@@gregorkamensek3923 thanks!
Hi Gregor - do you have drawings of the Huben tools to replace the opening valve seals? The seals are available but the tools are sold out. Can you help me with the drawings?
Best regards
Guido
Hi. It is best to ask Huben directly for those, they are not the same for all version. Make sure you send them serial number so they know the version.
@@gregorkamensek3923 Thank you very much - you are the best !!
Hello, what do you consider close range... and what do you consider long range with this rifle.. I would like to know before I purchase one
+James Denny I consider close range approximately up to 45 meters (50 yards). Everything beyond this is long range...
Gregor Kamenšek thanks that's good to know.... 50 yards is good accuracy
You can be assembled video?
Do not understand the level after the valve position, the trigger hole how seal?
+林鸿
Sorry, I do not understand the question. The valve seals in the same way as traditional airguns do (plastic seal on metal)
Hi Gregor I'm having a problem with mine I shot 4 or five times and then it didnt shoot anymore and I couldn't put the gun on safety any more so I loosen the regulator the pressure went down and then I could put the safety back on and then I put the pressure back where I had it I take a couple of shots an it does it like the beginning I could only do five shots. What do you think it could be ?
Can you let me know what is the pressure after that 5th shoot? If you cannot put it to safe, that means that the opening valve did not lock properly and the trigger sear did not engage (this also explains what you cannot take the next shoot). If at this time you do not have an air leak (opened opening valve), that means that there is something wrong with the opening valve. There are two options of the top of my head: the opening valve is damaged and it can extend too much (the opening valve is made of two parts and they extend when the valve is closed) although that would most likely mean that you could not shoot at all... second is that something is mechanically obstructing the part that is behind the opening valve (that part actually locks to the trigger sear). There are also some other possibilities like: the opening valve return spring is too weak (the spring behind the opening valve), maybe you are shooting with relatively low pressure and you have the power wheel fully opened (this is specially a problem is you are shooting heavy tight slugs), maybe the trigger sear is either damaged or the spring too weak to reset it and lock to the valve,... Hope any of this helps
@@gregorkamensek3923 thank you Gregor for the help. The opening valve looks pretty good I disassembled it an the orring inside is good and tite I grabed the tip of the opening valve an stretch it out and then I unscrewed it has a little orring and it looked good. You asked me about the pressure I have it regulated at 170 after the shots it doesn't drop the tank is in 300bar the rifle doesn't leak its very rare maybe it's the spring or something wrong with the trigger inside I'm going to check that out now
hi gregor....mine is leaking air beneath the cheeck pad...whats the probable cause before i open it all
Hi. It can either be the bleed screw on the top, but most likely, it is the main valve...
It can also be the indexing pin...
Thank you Gregor. The video is excellent! A great invention of airgun.
I want to ask you some things i dont know yet! (sorry for my bad hearing english ^^)
1. How to high-pressure impact on firing-valve system. I dont know if has a seal in slide pistol of firing valve? Before each shot, the force impact on the valve is toward or opposite?
2. The thing behide the firing-valve does not have seal, so how to keeps high pressure air in the firing chamber? And how to fix firing-valve in the firing chamber, because i see it is smaller than diameter of the chamber
Sorry if my questions is not right ^^
+Bốn Lê Văn Hi. I am having some trouble understanding you questions but I will try to answer to my best abilities:
1. Force of the pressure is trying to open the valve, by pulling the trigger, you are letting the pressure to open the valve.
2. The back side of the firing valve is sealed and the valve can be removed for service repair.
Hope I got those right...
+Gregor Kamenšek I dont know if high pressure air occupy all space in firing chamber or partly! If it is all space in, the firing chamber is tight, but i dont see seal in the thing behind firing valve (The thing contact with sear) Other, what principle to help the firing valve open. If it's pressure difference between 2 sides of the pistol, make the pistol trending backward, so meaning contiguous surface between the pistol and exhaust hole trending uncover, even before shooting, so will cause leaking in exhaust hole
+Bốn Lê Văn The back side of the valve seal is in the breach, that is why you do no see it in the video. there is a separate part the is in contact with the sear, the valve assembly (made of front bars part and rear steel part) is pressing against that part. The valve is opened and stays opened by the pressure. It closes by the spring when the pressure drops. A am sorry but I do not understand the last part....
+Gregor Kamenšek I wish you understand what i said! ^^
About firing valve, high pressure air impacts to slide pistol and push it toward, I dont see reason make it move backward when the sear is freed
+Bốn Lê Văn Google translator is not working for us :) Her goes: high pressure wants to open the valve, by pulling the trigger you are releasing it and it opens by the pressure. If you look closely, valve is made of two parts, the back part has a bigger surface area, that means that the force is higher to the rear (to open...)
Hi, can you tell me please the volume of regulated cylinder or at least the inside diameter and lenght ? Thank you for this nice review.
Hi. I don't have the gun disassembled at the moment but the approximate dimensions are: inner diameter is about 26 - 27 mm, the length of the tube is about 100 mm. There is very little volume reduction due to end caps (regulator and transfer port) but there is some additional volume in the breach, so you can subtract those volumes... So the regulated volume is about 55 cubic centimeters...
Thanks alot. The info that you gave me is more than enough. Very kind of you.
No problem ;)
Hello! I have a 2020 version of 6.35 caliber that has 2 manometers. A repairman strongly recommends that I will empty regulator air (not the main tank) after each use so that the o-rings do not deteriorate over time. Are you sure? Thanks
Hm, personally, I would never do that. The draining of the plenum is not very friendly to the regulator so frequent using of this method is not advised from my perspective. Also, I would say that even increases the chance of leaks since the o-ring is deformed and released on each charge, not to mention the temperature stress... Don't forget that in this case, you actually need to tune the gun before each use... So I do not find this method to be appropriate.
@@gregorkamensek3923 Thank you, but for a shot of heavy bullets, the pressure must be increased, and for light bullets, it must be lowered. Lowering the pressure is also harmful. I do not know what to do but I am sure there is a way to reduce the pressure of the regulator so that it is not harmful, because the manufacturer has made this possible and optimized the o-rings, only the correct way to do this is not explained anywhere.
@@Polarskii Yes, you are right. It is typically recommended that you take some dry shots when the pressure is decreased. Huben actually made a very well protected regulator regarding decreasing pressure (This is a common problem for all externally adjustable regulators, for example if you do this on FX, you will destroy the regulator seal...), but it is one thing to change the pressure for few bars of few tens of bars and a whole nother thing to go to zero. In any case, it is pointless to do so because as I explained, you are not prolonging the life of the seal, I would actually say that you are actually wearing the out faster... You can always ask Huben direction about their opinion on this, after all, they did built the gun :)
@@gregorkamensek3923 🙏😊
Can you tell me the size of all the o'rings at Huben K1?
Sorry I do not have this information. Maybe Huben can give you this information...
Hello Gregor, i put my backend off the huben under the water and see bubbles from the rotary magazine, do jou have any thougts about it. My huben is slowly leaking after a while.
Greetings from holland
Hi. There are two possibilities... One is the main valve. That is quite hard to replace, you need special tools and you need new main valve seals (composed of plastic seal and metal ring). Second possibility is easier, it is possible that you have a leak on the indexing pin. This is a 2,5 mm pin that is actuated by high pressure air and it is sealed by 2,5x1 mm oring. I suggest you try to replace this one first and you can use regular NBR70 material... Make sure that when you fix the leak, you dry out all the water and lubricate the gun :)
@@gregorkamensek3923 thanks for quick reply,..i think its de indexingpin o rings, but iam not sure,.. the gun works fine, but after some time its emty. I am going to try this first and hope thats it....thank you for technical support, and keep up the good work on you tube. Greetings from holland. Peter.
@@gregorkamensek3923 Hi Gregor, I too have a leak at the indexing pin. I can actually hear the hiss of the air escaping. The sound of the hiss changes and even stops sometimes when I play with the magazine release arm so it must definitely the pin. Is the O-ring you mention located on the brass screw as seen at 16:16 on this video?
@@jeanvanrooyen6004 No, there is another o-ring at the end of the hole where this brass part fits. The o-ring it 2,5x1 mm dimension. If you run your K1 at lower pressures, I recommend using NBR70 and NBR90 if your pressure is high. This oring seals around the pin on the left side of the gun where the leaver for magazine lock is and is one of the more critical o-rings to fail in the gun.
@@gregorkamensek3923 Thank you for your quick reply Greggor. OK I will get a new o-ring and try install it. I usually have the regulator set at 160 bar shooting the monster redesign at 950fps.I suppose this is high pressure for this gun? If so I will use NBR90. I want to get slugs for it(if i can ever find a MP molds 5.52 mold or the actual huben slugs) and run it to 170 bar(the max recommended for K1?)
Hi, I want to ask.
As the open pressure of the lower valve - that's the one with three legs.
I do not know where to put pressure.
Well thank you
Not sure if I understand the question. The lower valve with three legs is the closing valve. It is only closed for a fraction of the second right after the shot...
When there is no pressure in the gun in which state the valve is . Is the valve down or up?Thank you.
Same as when pressurized... Opening valve is closed, closing valve opened (iz does slightly depend on the power wheel setting...)
I do not know what the valve is pushing up?
Spring or pressure.
The spring on the rod that is connected to the power wheel is pushing up but not enough to close it. As mentioned, it is opened by default, it only closes for a fraction of a second after the shot due to pressure difference...
ciao gregor non e che potresti fare il tuo prosimo disassemblaggio con un HUNTSMAN REGAL.grazie
Hi gorge I would like to ask you a question about my Huben k1 I have a leak maybe you can help me with it thanks
Sure. What is the question?
Gregor Kamenšek in the bottom of my huben k1 have a little white plug I have air leaking from it would that be the rubber around the hammer that is leaking
Great video. Is it true these are made in Hong Kong?
Yes...
It's too bad we're not allowed to have bullpups here in Canada. Do you think that that action could be mounted in a conventional stock.
I think it could be... I was actually thinking of making a walnut stock for it... The challenge would be with the trigger, scope rail and power adjusting wheel...
Yes I was thinking the same thing. We have an importer here, who brought in, some Kalibr guns without stocks, and I think the idea is for people to modify them and fit them to a conventional rifle stock. They have also been detuned to 500 fps.
Hi Gregor, how are you? Congratulation for yours videos. Recently i buy a Huben K1, here in Brazil not yet a distributor, i had to go in Argentina buy it. I am configuring the app Strelok in my smartphone, do you know? Strelok is the app for Android, similar to ChairGun, is excellent for ballist calculations. For it, I need the "twist rate" (in Inches) at Huben K1 and the direction of the pellet rotation. Would you help me out of this? Tks
If you have a new K1 (version 2) then you have 1:16.4" right twist (1:416mm to be exact)
I do not know which version it is, there is nothing that identifies neither the box nor the weapon. How to know?
If you just purchased new K1, chances are that it is ver.2. I will receive K1 ver.2 shortly. When I do I will be able to let you know how to check the version. BTW: version 1 has choked barrel with right twist 1:450mm
Do you know if it is possible identify by serial number?
I will ask huben...
What is the size of the O-rings on the valve indexing, if there is o-rings, 1 or 2 ?
the o-ring on the shaft (this will have to be replaced every couple thousand shots) is 2.5 x 1 mm
Thanks for the fast reply, and how much of an O-ring on the shaft 1 or 2? I found one on the same floor and I do not know how much they have to be
There is only one o-ring on the shaft as far as I know. The other one is on the bars part but it usually does not wear out.
Perhaps these newer models are 2 o-rings.
My Huben differs significantly from that of your film.
It is possible... I noticed that there are several versions.
How has the k1 treated you to date? I am about to purchase one
I could not say. I bought mine long time ago, and I will receive the new shortly.... They are quite fast with answering questions....
I think I misunderstood your question. My huben run flawlessly. I had one malfunction, a small spring broke in the action. My dealer set me a new one and it was tuning again in about one week... I am very pleased with K1. There are not a lot of semi auto airguns that run with so little problems...
Gregor Kamenšek are you getting the new K2 or K1 mkii? Have you enjoyed the K1 you have already? I mean has it treated you well or caused you problems?
For no, I am getting K1 mkii. K2 is still in development. No problem with my first version except for that broken spring... never had a jam...
Awesome can't wait to get mine, thanks for your response ;-)
Can you help me to find huben k1 block for me
I suggest you contact Huben and ask for it as a spare part...
Hey Gregory check out Fred li he has a superb video on dissasembling the k1 block.
th-cam.com/video/eiuMQZaU7Jc/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/eiuMQZaU7Jc/w-d-xo.html
Yep, I know about that video. It is great.
Excuse me, k1 what is the principle of the workhas ?
+air love 王 I am not sure what you mean by "workhas".
hi,how much for the reciever.
Hi, I do not understand you question
hopefuuly u can share more detail about section view drawing .
Can I contact you somehow directly. I have some problem with my Huben K1
You can contact me through email that I have posted on my youtube page.
Who invented that thing?
I believe Huben holds some patents on the technology and a far as I know, it was developed by Huben in Hong Kong.
I’m aware of that. But who exactly is mister „huben“ or was it a Team that developed it 🤔
Greets
@@alexmenz8215 Again, I do not know for sure, but form what I have heard it is a work of a single person.
This gun is way over-engineered... Patented? Some flushing valves in toilets use the same principle