Tnx OM! Nice look at the details. I've got a 1940's Original in unrestored but working condition. Not really happy with the feel of added weight or extended pendulum so am waiting until I get above my current 25 WPM level to really use it as it was designed.
On mine I also noticed the older uses stainless steel screws whereas the newer uses more a mild steel coated variety (spring screw on dash and screw holding dot paddle on to frame)
My ham club had everyone bring their bugs to a meeting a while back. There were about 15 different semi-automatic keys there, mostly Vibroplex. The old ones seemed to be preferred over the newer models. Personally I get more accurate DITS with my old bug versus the new one but I haven't spent much time diagnosing the problem on the new one. I just like my old bug :)
I have a chrome standard from 1999 or so and a 1930’s Lightning bug (rebuilt with mismatched parts and missing label in an odd green textured base) that I guess was reworked some. The old Lightning bug is much faster than the newer one (stock with no added weight). It has the other type of spring too (with more adjustments). La hoff or something like that name for the spring.
The "dah" knob is supposed to be used as a straight key when you have to slow down sending. Otherwise, when sending at normal higher speeds (25+ wpm) you use the same paddle as your dits, just on the opposite side. You don't normally use the round knob.
No idea where you got that from...you can certainly operate it that way, but nearly all Vibroplex users use both the knob and paddle during normal operation. The paddle and knob combination takes into account that your thumb and forefinger are different lengths so that it fits your hand more naturally.
tnx. I was thinking what the heck was he saying? the most comfortable use was to use two fingers and the two paddles. I would send up to 33 wpm. As I remember I could not or did not use the dah paddle as a straight key. to help the novices practice, I use to switched to a straight key. Im guessing that being condition to use a str8 key, using the bug as a str8 key is uncomfortable. I used my middle finger for the dahs.
i am very disappointed in a recently purchased a Vibrokey (TN made) and it is horrifyingly low quality compared to a number of older used Vibrokeys i have purchased. Indeed, the casting is atrocious with sharp edges - apparently Vibroplex thinks it is perfectly fine to plate unsanded metal directly from the molds. Additionally, there is a lot of slop in the dit side of the key's lever arm - wobbles abound due to a roughly bent and oversized upper/lower support holding the trunion - this results in the inability to finely adjust the keying touch and much 'clicking' when keying - a real shame, as the key was purchased by the XYL (who doesn't know anything about keys - i don't have the heart to tell her)... what i may do is swap some parts out of some older bugs purchased for tinkering - i may be able to improve the adjustment and action - i am not happy and will never buy another Vibroplex key new...
I'm sorry to hear that. I hope you can get it tuned to your liking. You probably already know this but the trunion should be adjustable from the screw under the jewel to reduce the slop.
The new Vibroplexes have so many bugs it's a disgrace. I needed a red fingerpiece for a 1969 presentation and I had to rework it for quite a while to make it fit the old key. By the way they started gluing the labels around 1974 and dropped it later. My 1976 still has the glued label. And the gray from that time is not the battleship gray which is a lot darker and was only used on deluxe models during WWII.
I think you're right. I bought the same model bug in 1975 (i added the shorting switch option) I would send up to 33wpm. I got back in to the hobby and with the new bug, It seems I cant get the contact spacing right. the bug seems sloppy. might be me, I lost speed in returning to the hobby. I tried to send CQ W#ABC (my call) (not transmitting) at the proper bug speed, I cant get the setting right yet. might be old age. I was thinking of getting a electronic key.
I was thinking abt getting a keyer due to the rig I have now has a keyer built in. and at this time need to practice and get my CW speed to be over 25wpm again.
@@Ed-vi6tg My problem with keyers is that they feel so totally different that I'm actually slower than with a bug. I've tried built-in keyers from the big three and an external K1EL but I'm producing too many errors. Having full control over the timing combined with the feedback from the pendulum helps me tremendeously.
@@thirtycrows I realized with the issue with the new bug i bought; its not the key, its me. would take too long to explain in detail. short version. I been practicing my code again I am now about a solid 15 ~ 16wpm. I had my first CW QSO in abt 42 years at maybe 10wpm using the dah key as a "straight key" although I could copy at abt 15 wpm with no problem, I was unable to send code at 10 or even slower speed, as i tried to clean up my fist by slowing down. I was totally unable to send clean code at any speed. for reasons of long ago, I use to think if you can rx code at 15 wpm , I would not have a problem sending at a much slower speed; Not the case. i no longer think that. I wonder how many hams are proficient with a keyer and a bug. My guess not many. One would have to have two brains and be able to switch on and off, going back and forth between a bug and a keyer. Proficiency is the conditioning to one type of Key. I wanted to try the e-keyer as it goes down to 4wpm.
+ALEJANDRO CAZAREZ They are different model keys (deluxe versus standard). Vibroplex still sells a standard bearing model. I was comparing things that would be common across models.
This is BS. They've been used on every ship around the world no issues. You have to set them up correctly though. Don't use a Begali spacing and expect them to work in an earthquake.
On the Older version I believe the knurling is style is reffered to as " Rope style" knurling. Love the Ten Tec that model is on my want list.
Tnx OM! Nice look at the details. I've got a 1940's Original in unrestored but working condition. Not really happy with the feel of added weight or extended pendulum so am waiting until I get above my current 25 WPM level to really use it as it was designed.
On mine I also noticed the older uses stainless steel screws whereas the newer uses more a mild steel coated variety (spring screw on dash and screw holding dot paddle on to frame)
My ham club had everyone bring their bugs to a meeting a while back. There were about 15 different semi-automatic keys there, mostly Vibroplex. The old ones seemed to be preferred over the newer models. Personally I get more accurate DITS with my old bug versus the new one but I haven't spent much time diagnosing the problem on the new one. I just like my old bug :)
I don’t know but I guess they contract with someone to cast and machine parts and just assemble them in Knoxville. Maybe they contract assembly too.
I have a chrome standard from 1999 or so and a 1930’s Lightning bug (rebuilt with mismatched parts and missing label in an odd green textured base) that I guess was reworked some. The old Lightning bug is much faster than the newer one (stock with no added weight). It has the other type of spring too (with more adjustments). La hoff or something like that name for the spring.
The "dah" knob is supposed to be used as a straight key when you have to slow down sending. Otherwise, when sending at normal higher speeds (25+ wpm) you use the same paddle as your dits, just on the opposite side. You don't normally use the round knob.
No idea where you got that from...you can certainly operate it that way, but nearly all Vibroplex users use both the knob and paddle during normal operation. The paddle and knob combination takes into account that your thumb and forefinger are different lengths so that it fits your hand more naturally.
tnx. I was thinking what the heck was he saying? the most comfortable use was to use two fingers and the two paddles. I would send up to 33 wpm. As I remember I could not or did not use the dah paddle as a straight key. to help the novices practice, I use to switched to a straight key. Im guessing that being condition to use a str8 key, using the bug as a str8 key is uncomfortable. I used my middle finger for the dahs.
i am very disappointed in a recently purchased a Vibrokey (TN made) and it is horrifyingly low quality compared to a number of older used Vibrokeys i have purchased. Indeed, the casting is atrocious with sharp edges - apparently Vibroplex thinks it is perfectly fine to plate unsanded metal directly from the molds. Additionally, there is a lot of slop in the dit side of the key's lever arm - wobbles abound due to a roughly bent and oversized upper/lower support holding the trunion - this results in the inability to finely adjust the keying touch and much 'clicking' when keying - a real shame, as the key was purchased by the XYL (who doesn't know anything about keys - i don't have the heart to tell her)... what i may do is swap some parts out of some older bugs purchased for tinkering - i may be able to improve the adjustment and action - i am not happy and will never buy another Vibroplex key new...
I'm sorry to hear that. I hope you can get it tuned to your liking. You probably already know this but the trunion should be adjustable from the screw under the jewel to reduce the slop.
The new Vibroplexes have so many bugs it's a disgrace. I needed a red fingerpiece for a 1969 presentation and I had to rework it for quite a while to make it fit the old key. By the way they started gluing the labels around 1974 and dropped it later. My 1976 still has the glued label. And the gray from that time is not the battleship gray which is a lot darker and was only used on deluxe models during WWII.
I think you're right. I bought the same model bug in 1975 (i added the shorting switch option) I would send up to 33wpm. I got back in to the hobby and with the new bug, It seems I cant get the contact spacing right. the bug seems sloppy. might be me, I lost speed in returning to the hobby. I tried to send CQ W#ABC (my call) (not transmitting) at the proper bug speed, I cant get the setting right yet. might be old age. I was thinking of getting a electronic key.
@@Ed-vi6tg Give you some time and the bug a chance. An electronic keyer won't make you happy if you've been a bug guy. Electronic keyers have no soul.
I was thinking abt getting a keyer due to the rig I have now has a keyer built in. and at this time need to practice and get my CW speed to be over 25wpm again.
@@Ed-vi6tg My problem with keyers is that they feel so totally different that I'm actually slower than with a bug. I've tried built-in keyers from the big three and an external K1EL but I'm producing too many errors. Having full control over the timing combined with the feedback from the pendulum helps me tremendeously.
@@thirtycrows I realized with the issue with the new bug i bought; its not the key, its me. would take too long to explain in detail. short version. I been practicing my code again I am now about a solid 15 ~ 16wpm. I had my first CW QSO in abt 42 years at maybe 10wpm using the dah key as a "straight key" although I could copy at abt 15 wpm with no problem, I was unable to send code at 10 or even slower speed, as i tried to clean up my fist by slowing down. I was totally unable to send clean code at any speed. for reasons of long ago, I use to think if you can rx code at 15 wpm , I would not have a problem sending at a much slower speed; Not the case. i no longer think that. I wonder how many hams are proficient with a keyer and a bug. My guess not many. One would have to have two brains and be able to switch on and off, going back and forth between a bug and a keyer. Proficiency is the conditioning to one type of Key. I wanted to try the e-keyer as it goes down to 4wpm.
well.. another difference is that the newer is jewelled, and the oldest not..
+ALEJANDRO CAZAREZ They are different model keys (deluxe versus standard). Vibroplex still sells a standard bearing model. I was comparing things that would be common across models.
How About seen those working aboard a rolling ship --- and I'll tell you the differences. Those Keys won't work at all.
This is BS. They've been used on every ship around the world no issues. You have to set them up correctly though. Don't use a Begali spacing and expect them to work in an earthquake.
Don"t cut your fingers on the dah side. cheaply made and more $$$$