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Heavy Pruning Young Fruit Trees | How to Prune Stone Fruit
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 ม.ค. 2021
- Heavy pruning young stone fruit after their first year in the ground in Arizona. We will be pruning peaches, apricots, plums, plum hybrids and almonds. Keep in mind, these trees grow very quickly for us here in AZ so we prune them much heavier than would be appropriate in regions where these trees do not grow as aggressively.
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After watching you prune that motivated me to go out and prune my trees
I know exactly how you feel. I've lost count of the times I watch one of their videos and it inspires me to get out there and do something.
I'm glad to hear that Natte. We try to get these out while there's still plenty of time to get the chore done!
@@orangewatchie of course, you have summer pruning under way!
Wow! You really gave your troops a haircut! Can’t wait for the springtime growth!
Hey Chet! That may have to be my new way of addressing these trees after pruning. Just like the nuggets we have coming in next month!
Awesome! Favorite channel. Bought a really nice fruiting Mulberry Tree so I need all the info I can find to put her in the ground correctly! Lol super excited...😁
Hey Dianne! You made the right choice with a mulberry tree. They are strong growers and will give you a lifetime of fruit production. What variety did you wind up with?
@@EdgeofNowhereFarm It just said,Black Mulberry, lol. So I'm not sure exactly. I live in 29 palms right next to the Marine Base. Its really hot here so I appreciate your information a lot. Quite challenging to grow so I thought I would plant fruit trees..😍 I bought her online New Orleans, LA. A person named Kaveri Govindan
Time to go to work. Lovely talking to you..😀
Thanks for the pruning video, I'm always hesitant to make cuts, but this helps me be more confident to do so.
Daryl, I know just how you feel. After all these years I still look back and hope they come out of dormancy ok! They always do, but you still second guess it.
Awesome! Great video! The scaffolding!
Glad you enjoyed this one. Now for spring to see how they respond!!
Great job, I like your pruning style and thank you for sharing.
Thanks Daniel. Hopefully this all pays off come February/March with a huge burst of life!
Exactly the video I needed. Thank-you so much.
Glad to hear it. We have a lot of folks who have questions about pruning, so we needed to get this out there!
Great video, Showed me a lot on pruning my trees.
Glad to hear you found this one useful. We have a lot of questions about pruning fruit trees, so we wanted to make sure we documented how we prune from the beginning.
Good video👍
Glad you enjoyed this one! It's definitely that time of year!!
Another interesting video!
Glad you enjoyed this one guys!
Nice one guys. Really looking forward to seeing your property in Spring.
Hey Daz! We're looking forward to it as well. We actually have snow in the forecast for us this week, so we're looking forward to that spring growth as well!
@@EdgeofNowhereFarm SNOW!!!! Yesterday and today are 104 in your scale.
How much to get some of that snow shipped priority?
@@orangewatchie I'll check on freight, but you'll have to return the favor come July and August!!
Awesome
Glad you enjoyed this one Mary!
Mulch everything much deeper and throughout orchard. Ground will soften in time and subsequent microbial diversity in the soil will produce robust resilience.
Great notes here John. We typically have anywhere from 8-12 inches of mulch around and between the trees. This is one of our older videos, so it doesn't show the mulch we have in place these days.
I'm so happy i found your channel. I'm a bit further south (sierra vista) but it's really helpful to see someone in Arizona having great success. I'm currently planting a private orchard on my small bit of land, and i was wondering what trees you think thrive the best in our rocky soil/ bright sun? I'm looking into getting another peach tree, and maybe another pear or apricot.
Glad you're enjoying the content and giving this a shot yourself! Peaches and apricots are great choices and pears can be a bit of a challenge, but definitely worth trying. When you get some time, we have a playlist specifically for fruit trees and we did a series year before last that covered the different varieties we prefer to grow. That list will expand a bit, but it will give you some ideas. I'll link the video on choosing figs as an example and you can find the rest of that series in the playlist right around that same time.
th-cam.com/video/U9hSKBu5rZA/w-d-xo.html
I’m so glad I found your channel, I am doing very similar things but I started 1 year later then you. So I can see what you do and see the results then do it to mine 😅 zone 5b Ontario
Oh wow, I imagine you are seeing something quite different from your patio than we are being up there! What varieties are you growing? Any cherries?
@@EdgeofNowhereFarm so far, Apple - Red Delicious, Honeycrisp going to add lots of Northern Spy this fall, amazing apple if you ever come across one. Pear - Bosc, Bartlett and Clapps. Plum - Italian Prune and Yellow Egg I think it’s called. To my surprise the Peach - Reliance and Red Heaven Apricot- Tilton are doing the best so far. Also have blue berry blackberries and raspberries. Grapes Sovereign Coronation and Baco Noir. Will be doing cherry this fall, likely Stella and what ever else I can find.
@@giuliobaecker5476 wow, that is a heck of a list! While we do grow apples, they are not nearly as good as the varieties you have growing there!
Not so much a comment as a question if I may, would you mind telling me what the pipes are for that you have obviously installed next to your stone fruit trees please, I’m thinking they are for watering or fertilising or maybe a bit of both.. I live in Queensland Australia, where like last year we had no rain at all for 11 months, it did fall, but not on our trees.. Maybe you have a secret watering system.. My wife and I eventually ended up installing underground reticulated watering systems as there were not enough hours in the day to properly water all the fruit trees with a hand held hose.. Hope you don’t mind me asking this question.. Your one year old trees look very healthy indeed.. Thank you for your most informative pruning video on how to prune the new growers...
Regards D
Hey there Den. What you're seeing on the ground is a valve box that is covering our irrigation bubbler. We use 1/2 gal/minute bubblers to water all of our trees, because we would never be able to keep up with 170 fruit trees (and growing). Like you, we can go several months with no rain, so we are wholly dependent on our ability to irrigate our trees. We have a lot of Aussie viewers and from what I understand you guys have regulations in place for rain catchment. I can only imagine how critical that must be when you're going 11 months without any rainfall. Your storage requirements for catchment must be fairly robust as well I imagine.
Your orchard is looking awesome! I was hoping for a little more rain by now to soften up this clay so I can plant the rest of my trees, but so far it’s holding off. Supposed to rain all week so next weekend I’ll be digging holes, lol. I meant to ask you about your auger. I bought an earthquake gas auger but the auger that came with it is pretty narrow for trees unless you drill several holes next to each other. Do you guys have a wider auger for yours? I was considering getting a wider one but I bet it would be a beast to operate alone.
Those earthquake augers are suppose to be very good, so that was a solid choice. We use an 8" auger to get the hoes dug for the trees and it seems to be a good size hole. The challenge is definitely the amount of force it takes to hold it in place. That's why you pretty much always see Lori and I working it together.
Never thought you could prune stonefruits in January? I always imagined this had to be done in Summer?
We're a little backwards here in the desert. The intense summer heat stunts the growth of the trees, so we've found it's very hard on the trees to prune when they're in that struggle to survive. Hence the Winter pruning.
@@EdgeofNowhereFarm Aha, never thought of that, quite interesting. Thanks!
The Rabbits here are awful when it come to the fruit trees so far they leave the citrus trees alone I do know now Bobcats like peach and Guava I have trees I will be picking up this Thursday from Greg. I just love seeing your orchard You both did a great job on the trees.
Hey there Pamela! The rabbits are just a total menace. We even have some damage on one of the lower branches to our Honey Mandarin and they were basically pruning away the lower half of our kumquats until we fenced them out. I think our rabbit population out here is on steroids!
Hey there! 😀 I’m actually your neighbor 😁 and an avid gardener as well. i live in Morristown and would love to know what variety of trees you plant here that you’ve had success with and where you get them since I’m looking to expand my fruit trees this year as well, i would love any advice or suggestions! Thank you in advance
Hey there neighbor! It's always great to hear from folks who've made the move out of the city. We posted several videos before we moved from our smaller 1 acre farm on the different varieties and types of trees we've had success with. I'll link the first one in that series for you here. You can also check out our playlists on a few specific types of trees that may be of use as well. Our favorite nursery is RSI Growers, but we have had success with trees from Richard's Garden Center, Summer Wind Nursery and from Greg Peterson (The Urban Farm). We've also purchased trees from a few online nurseries - Stark Bros, Raintree and Willis Orchard to name a few. If you have any specific questions on the different types, just let us know!
th-cam.com/video/U9hSKBu5rZA/w-d-xo.html
@@EdgeofNowhereFarm thanks so much for your response! i will definitely be watching those other videos and looking into these nurseries, this is so helpful, thanks again 😀
@@marisolguzman4140 sure thing!
Great information thanks, I have a question for you I've been watching your videos for a while now and see you trim your trees for maximum production, but if say you wanted a super tall stone fruit how would you trim them? Thanks for your time.
Now that is a great question. Funny timing also, because we just shot footage this past weekend pruning our pear trees. Those will be on a Central Leader system that allows the tree to get much larger and hopefully protect those fall fruit through the summer. That episode should come out this Saturday.
@@EdgeofNowhereFarm awesome can't wait to see it 👍
Hi I'm new to your channel an I live it. I do have a question. How do you stop your tree from fruiting an how old are they when you do allow them to fruit
Hey Linda! That's a great question and it depends on a few things. We remove (pick) immature fruit from the trees for the first year or two, so they can concentrate on growth and root development. That's not always easy with small fruit like mulberries, so with those we will thin the fruit where we can and allow some to ripen. Deciding when to allow a tree to fruit depends on the tree itself. If the tree is large enough to support the weight of the fruit without breaking branches then we'll let some fruit ripen by the 3rd year. Every once in a while we have a tree that is strong enough to produce a few pieces of fruit in year two and we'll let them.
@@EdgeofNowhereFarm thank you so much
Did you guys ever take my advice and put a protective sleeving around the lower portion of the trunks? I used a plastic flexible weed eater sleeving. We have a tremendous rabbit problem on our property and any Tree on my property that doesn't have this the rabbits will eat the bark off and girdle the tree. I got mine at the HD. take a look.
Hey Jesse, we haven't forgotten the tip. We're trying to keep the little buggers away from the lower branches that should start establishing over the next growing season. Hopefully we can switch to something like that long term, because I much prefer the clean look an easy access those will give us!
Hey Dwayne! I wimped out and hardly pruned my bare Root stone fruit trees, and didnt top them either. I've picked off a lot of baby fruit but have left a dozen or less on 2 trees that threw fruit. Is it too late to do some pruning now? And what are your thoughts on leaving a few fruit on young trees like this? Am I better off biting the bullet and taking them off in the long run, sonthey can fully focus on Root growth and canopy?
Hey Frances. I'm assuming these are newly planted bare root trees? If so, you'll want to hold off on pruning anything at this point as the new branching and leafing is what allows the tree to establish it's new rooting system. As for the fruit, we don't let trees produce fruit in the first couple of years. That first year in particular is very critical for the tree to concentrate on root development and branching. Whether you do the same is completely up to you, but it's best for the tree to remove that fruit.
@@EdgeofNowhereFarm thanks Dwayne. I'll suck it up and go remove the remaining fruit
Hey my favorite AZ farmers, I got some pruning questions for ya!
A- Is it normal for my fruit trees from Reid to already start dropping leaves? Its getting into the low 80s during the day, low 50s during the night, and dropping fast at my location. I haven't finished installing my watering emitters quiet yet, so could be a lack of water. I don't know for sure, I'm basically eye balling it.
B- For my apple trees am I wanting to follow a similar pruning and leaf stripping process as you are preforming in this video or is they some specific method for apple trees?
C- I just planted my trees a few weeks ago, should I wait to do any pruning and leaf stripping till next year around? What would you suggest?
D- You mentioned stripping the leaves in this video the night before. Is this your preferred method of the pruning process? I was under the impression that evergreen trees should have leaves year round.
Thank you for answering my questions so quickly! I really love watching your videos and soaking up all the information I can from you two! Y'all are an inspiration and I'm so grateful for your generosity of knowledge!
Love you two and all that you do! May God bless your endeavors!
Hey Jordan. Great questions, so let's get to it. A - It's hard to say for sure, but we've had some leaf drop on a few of our trees after hitting the upper 40's last week early in the morning. It could definitely be shock as well from a new planting. Do watch the watering as they need water, but not overly so this time of year. Once per week should be sufficient as long as you're mulching well. B - Apple tree pruning will happen in either late December or January, so it's done before they break bud which can be as early as January some years. We prune most of our apple trees to an open center design. C - Definitely wait until the dormancy season as discussed in answer "B". D - We usually start stripping leaves once we get into December/January. By this time it should be easy to run your hand along a branch and have many of the leaves fall off on their own. The tips of apple trees usually need a little more assistance. We'll have videos again this season on pruning, so we'll try to get them out in a timely manner to allow everyone to see what we're doing while they're doing the same.
@@EdgeofNowhereFarm Amazing answers! Thank you so much! I look forward to your video on it!
If possible make a video about wambugu apple variety!
Hello Jahangir. I haven't heard of that variety before, so we'll need to research that.
@@EdgeofNowhereFarm it's developing in Kenya! You can youtube search!
@@jahangiralam-cw1rm thanks, I'll take a look at it and see if it's something we might want to try.
What are those objects on the ground white colored and with a drain connected to base of the trees. The thing on which you have placed a pink colored water at 13:05
It is the cover to protect water value for the tree.
@@MH-cj1gz sprinkler system ?
Yes it is a sprinkler system
It looks like M H answered this one for you, but those are valve boxes to protect the irrigation heads.
On the last two trees, why did u remove the center branch? Thanks
That's to form the tree into what's referred to as an open center design. This encourages the tree to grow outward vs more vertical to allow for easier harvesting. It also allows more air flow and light penetration into the center of the tree which aids in the ripening of fruit. It's especially useful for stone fruit varieties like peaches, plums and apricots.
@@EdgeofNowhereFarm thanks
What kind of paint do you use to paint the trunk?
Hi Linda! It is Arizona's Best Tree Trunk paint that we get from Home Depot.
If I am seeing correctly, you are finding 3 or 4 scaffold branches & cutting off the main trunk to open the middle. Is that correct? I see the reason for cutting inner branches, crossing branches, etc, but I can't figure out why you cut the main trunk & leave scaffold branches. What am I missing?
Great question Christa. The main reason for us here is to keep the tree a manageable height. The second advantage, particularly with stone fruit, is the even ripening of the fruit in the center of the tree. The sunlight exposure on earlier ripening fruit (peaches especially) can really make a difference. Most of these trees will grow very rapidly in late spring to close that center back off for the summer.
@@EdgeofNowhereFarm thx, Duane. I also want to prune my trees to my ability to reach to prune & harvest. I am curious to see you pruning the height this winter. Do you have a posted video of those trees this fall after having grown all summer? Reid told me that he has customers who keep their trees at 10 ft height max so that they can prune. I want to know if the prune the tree back to 6 ft each winter. Being new to non-citrus fruit trees in the valley, I have a lot to learn. The Aprium went in the ground this morning, & I left the top of the rootball above the soil where roots were below the surface, I packed soil around the ball, completed the inner watering ring & watered & mulched. Trying to determine what branches should be scaffold & I seem to have 3 branches & not 4, but, Reid had mentioned 4 beanches quite low to the ground. I so appreciate your knowledge.
@@christaj1754 the trees in this video were planted in March of 2020, so they had almost an entire year of growth before we made any cuts at all. With a newly planted tree I would leave it completely intact until Winter of 2022/2023. It needs that whole year of growth to put on branching that in turn drives root growth. We'll be doing the same with the trees we just planted from Reid this month. As for the pruning height each year, yes you would basically prune back to that 6' height each year and leave enough branching for your fruit production.
I'm surprised you let them grow wild like that and didn't train them during the growing season. Wasted growth in the wrong areas in my opinion. The apricot I planted in February is twice the size with good structure for my first go at fruit trees. I'm also in the Phoenix area.
That's a great suggestion. We've had some issues with pruning stone fruit during the summer after the fruiting sets, but with these young trees that wouldn't be an issue. I suppose if we could find the time to do it we might have better results. That summer die back can be tough though.
Im in high desert and have jack rabbits and roadrunners , does letting them eat lower growth hurt tree ?
That's a great question and only if they start chewing away at the trunk. We've had them start girdling trees once they eat all the smaller branching, so we're taking extra precautions to keep them away from the trunk.
@@EdgeofNowhereFarm ok thanks , I’m gonna start to plant a couple things next week, I will see how they react before I go too far
@@alliedsandblasting9211 sure thing!
Hello guys do plan to put any kind of wind break?
Mark, that's a great question. Right now we're waiting for our neighbors to the West of us to get their homes under way. Depending on the type of fencing they decide on we may do some wind break on that side of the property. The bulk of our regular, heavy winds come from the West, so that side of the property would be our focus. One advantage to how we have the orchards set up is they will be a natural wind break on the East and West sides of the property.
@@EdgeofNowhereFarm thank you that helps me set up my wind break the more I pick up from you and your family the more I can teach the locales to grow there own food I have noticed the are starting to copy me on using ground cover on there plants, thank you very much
@@markramirez9275 That's great to hear. Where are you located?
@@EdgeofNowhereFarm Cardenas Chihuahua about 45 minutes south of chihuahua city
@@markramirez9275 very cool. I can see why a lot of these principles would apply for you guys there as well!
Can you make one apple tree video Furtilizer apply n organic plz
Yes, we will definitely be doing a fertilizing video in the next few weeks that will cover apple trees as well. Thanks for the request!
Thanks .i will wait that video..
I am scared I will kill my Bonanza peach tree if I prune it.
I already planted it a little to deep in the ground.
Has the tree gone completely dormant yet? You'll want to wait for that. Once it does you will want to prune away any dead or crossing branches. Technically you don't really NEED to prune further than that depending on your desires for the tree as far as size and shape. As for the planting depth, there isn't a lot you can do after the fact, but if the tree has not been in the ground long and it's really deep you could always transplant it. Even into the same spot just to get the depth right. There's always a chance it can kill the tree, but planting it way too deep can do the same.
Wanna come prune my mulberries. You can keep the pruning to root. lol
Hey guys! If we had the time these days we would be there for you! We still have mulberries to get done ourselves!! :)
@@EdgeofNowhereFarm Oh i know was trying to be funny . I got 3 to your BAJILLION and a Half. LOL Love it
I honestly don't understand what is wrong with allowing a tree to have strong fruit bearing branches low on the trunk. Wouldn't it make it easier to get fruit off the tree? Can you explain it to me?
Hey Jynxie. The sole reason we have trunks this high is deter rabbit pressure on the trees. We have jackrabbits that like to reach up to about 3' tall and munch on anything they can get their teeth into.
@@EdgeofNowhereFarm I understand that you are doing that for this farm but you did that for the other house too to a degree. You also didn't let them get very tall. It's like you didn't want to get too much yield from the trees. Is it because they are too young or something else? I am just asking from the stand point of a complete noon, I have no knowledge at all and I'm trying to understand and I'm watching all your videos from first to newest looking at your hard work as gospel. ☺️
@@JynxieTheMermaid these are good questions. Most (not all) of the trees we had on the old farm broke between knee and waist height. This is ideal so you're keeping fruit from dragging onto the ground on any low hanging branches and makes it easier to harvest (standing up vs kneeling and not climbing on ladders to reach fruit above 8' or so). Keep in mind, you have rodents looking for fruit as well, so low hanging fruit can become a problem very quickly. Either way, it's completely up to you how low you would like the tree to have it's first horizontal branches and how tall you want it to be. However, a tree that is well cared for will give you great harvests with fruit between 3' - 9' off the ground. To give you an idea how much fruit you can get from trees that are this size I'll link an episode we did on our Golden Dorsette apple tree on the old farm.
th-cam.com/video/ndrLgJ_njDo/w-d-xo.html
That was on a very young tree and you can see the branches laden with fruit were still very low to the ground even though we pruned them up to about 3'. The following year we had even more fruit!
@@EdgeofNowhereFarm Thanks for all that info. I really want to know all I can about this. I need all the info I can if I want to try this. We bought a large lot outside of Elfrida with nothing anywhere around us, so plenty of land to plant. I can use all the tips I can get. Moving from outside of Philadelphia PA to Elfrida AZ is a big thing. So getting to do this is huge. Have you ever thought about growing or tried Banana trees or strawberries?
@@JynxieTheMermaid wow, that is a big move! While we have our challenges, it's amazing to see what can grow here. Bananas do well in the city where temps are a bit more temperate, but it's very cold for bananas here in Wittmann. While we could probably coax them into producing we just don't want to spend the time trying to nurse a plant along while so many other fruit trees do extremely well with very little work. Strawberry plants are annual here, so you need to replant them each season. What made you decide to leave the big city?
Why laurita don't like being seen on camera?
I know right! I'll keep trying to get her on here, promise!