Are you supposed to clip your quad to the fixed anchor bolts or the first chain link like you did here? I've seen some diagrams online that recommended clipping into the fixed bolts.
I was trained that same way, but techniques are constantly evolving. Clipping directly into the hangers works. I would recommend clipping underneath the links/rap rings if you're building from vertical hangers. That way your carabiner doesn't become loaded in a compromising position once weighted while laying on top of a link while in the hanger. Horizontal hangers can be clipped as well, but watch carabiner orientation. Sometimes the carabiner can orient oddly (and dangerously) on a horizontal hanger so I usually avoid it. It's typically simpler and easier to hit the chains or rings. Plus your carabiner usually aligns better once the anchor is weighted if it's on the links. I usually leave the bottom rings open in case anyone comes rappelling from above. But if you need to build off the bottom links/rings and a group comes barreling down, just throw a couple lockers on your system so they can quickly feed through and abseil past. Many situations might require a different application, but the links/rings directly off the hanger is usually a solid go to.
why use a PAS when you could clove yourself into the quad with the rope you are tied in with? or if I need to come out of the rope system to rappel, why not use a cheap nylon sling to tether myself in direct?
Absolutely agree with this! I often find myself doing EXACTLY that on alpine and multi-pitch routes. For the purpose of this video, many new climbers start with a PAS as it makes the whole learning process simple and adds security. I decided to use a PAS to help newer climbers focus solely on the anchor and simplify the process. In time, climbers can transition to the clove/sling/PAS system of their choosing.
Good content but holy shit was the intro sad and desperate as hell. “I’m the middle child. I need validation.” Dude have some self respect. I’d you make good content you won’t have to beg people to follow you, they just will. Don’t beg, it comes off weak.
Solid content! Really nice explanation that was easy to understand for new climbers
Glad it was helpful!
Love your stuff, keep doing very thorough videos. You're a clear explainer and seem to answer my burning questions. Keep it up.
I'm learning a lot from you. Thanks for the videos!
Great video! Would be interesting to see how you would belay the leader on the next pitch with your setup :)
Great suggestion!
Would be great to see how you setup a quad with slings
th-cam.com/video/jSuIa4K_FXQ/w-d-xo.html
Finally got to it!
Nicely done! Thanks man
Thanks, this was helpful!
Thanks for the information g
Are you supposed to clip your quad to the fixed anchor bolts or the first chain link like you did here? I've seen some diagrams online that recommended clipping into the fixed bolts.
I was trained that same way, but techniques are constantly evolving. Clipping directly into the hangers works. I would recommend clipping underneath the links/rap rings if you're building from vertical hangers. That way your carabiner doesn't become loaded in a compromising position once weighted while laying on top of a link while in the hanger. Horizontal hangers can be clipped as well, but watch carabiner orientation. Sometimes the carabiner can orient oddly (and dangerously) on a horizontal hanger so I usually avoid it. It's typically simpler and easier to hit the chains or rings. Plus your carabiner usually aligns better once the anchor is weighted if it's on the links. I usually leave the bottom rings open in case anyone comes rappelling from above. But if you need to build off the bottom links/rings and a group comes barreling down, just throw a couple lockers on your system so they can quickly feed through and abseil past. Many situations might require a different application, but the links/rings directly off the hanger is usually a solid go to.
does it matter which 2 you clip at? for top rope on the bottom?
By the way, great content.
Does it matter which two strands you clip into for the master point? Or does any combination of two strands work?
Any two
why use a PAS when you could clove yourself into the quad with the rope you are tied in with? or if I need to come out of the rope system to rappel, why not use a cheap nylon sling to tether myself in direct?
Absolutely agree with this! I often find myself doing EXACTLY that on alpine and multi-pitch routes. For the purpose of this video, many new climbers start with a PAS as it makes the whole learning process simple and adds security. I decided to use a PAS to help newer climbers focus solely on the anchor and simplify the process. In time, climbers can transition to the clove/sling/PAS system of their choosing.
you should put the anchor into the bolts not the rap rings if you have the option
middle child syndrome 😅excellent description
Good content but holy shit was the intro sad and desperate as hell. “I’m the middle child. I need validation.” Dude have some self respect. I’d you make good content you won’t have to beg people to follow you, they just will. Don’t beg, it comes off weak.