Hi- thanks for showcasing Vitality in your video. We have a couple tips and suggestions for your future tests. If you did not add worm castings to the mix, then you should use the Supercharge rate when using Vitality. Use the lowest rate to maintain healthy plants. Vitality has natural plant hormones, so it’s ideal to apply it into the oil before or during seed starting. Vitality builds up your soil and can fuel the seedling. Please try this using the highest rate to inoculate the soil if there are no other nutrients in media (peat moss, seed starting mix, or coco coir). We suggest continued use and long term observation because the benefits are also long term. The plants in both pots look very stressed, and deficient- we believe you are seeing Nitrogen draft. Your results are very surprising as Vitality usually helps transplants and seedlings flourish. We are not sure why, but it could be the media or the dying seedlings. By snipping them and leaving the stem and roots in the pot, they will rot and begin to break down in the soil which can cause stress to the living plants. We also suggest fully removing seedlings when you thin them out. If there is not fully composted material in the media you will experience “nitrogen draft”. This is where organic matter being decomposed by microorganisms will scavenge available N before the plant can. A nitrogen draft occurs when organic matter that is high in carbohydrates but low in nitrogen is mixed into the soil. As the carbohydrate is consumed, the microorganisms decline, releasing the nitrogen in their bodies to the soil again. Here’s a good article on Nitrogen Draft www.agroconection.com/feeding/nitrogen-draft/ Hope you give it another try, thank you.
Wow. This is quite possibly the best "try again with our suggestions for better results" that I have ever read. I don't even use the product and I'm thinking "shoot, I'm gonna grab some of that and try it". Well done.
Not sure if you can answer this but I;m going to ask anyhow. I really enjoy your tutorials. I'm in Australia & winter is on its way I am researching to no avail as to what I need to be getting to provide necessary hours of light in my poly tunnel to get good dark leafy greens & tomatoes etc through the winter months. the prices in the shops are insane & climbing so going to invest in growing green goods on the farm. I want to do Solar panel & LED stripe lighing or tape lighting hopefully but open to suggestions, I have not found anything as to what is needed online, any & all suggestions greatfully accepted. thanks Sandi A Canadian in Oz.
You can find strip lighting in a lot of places online. if you match DC to DC power then the panel will power the lights in linear with daylight intensity. Use daylight white led's.
@@Freedom_Born personally , cold extracted kelp has made a huge change in my garden but alfalfa has as well. I don’t use any inorganic ones but I feel like PGR’’s in general is a topic most of the public should be aware of but it is rarely brought attention. so anything exploring the topic would be cool. Kelp i feel like would make the most dramatic difference for visible representation in a video tho ... not being a fisher man I’ve seen plants grow up two 6 inches in one day with cold extracted kelp
@@Freedom_Born that was with cal-mag (monster cal ) and Reamos velvo kelp 1,1,1 at 800 ppm in a earthbox definitely not a cheap test but results were unbelievable
The main culprits to be aware of are paclobutrazol and chlormequat (spelling*). Those two are the most widely used synth PGRs - gba (giberellin) is a natural occurring pgr but still detrimental if used excessively.
I live where the stuff is rampant. Hence why I grow my own. The synth ones are highly carcinogenic. Cancer causing toxicity. They’re used as a cash crop enhancer, producing twice as fast. Fat and rock hard nugs. But trichomes stop producing and pistils turn a noticeable dark red. Definitely not something to be consumed. For non consumable plants like ornamentals and such, they’re perfectly fine. Because you’re not ingesting it and it makes the plant look more aesthetically desirable. But for anything consumable synthetic PGR is an absolute no no.
Nice channel and experiments. However i think to get a good result you would need to test it on a bigger scale. This sample size is not big enough to give good results.
Hi- thanks for showcasing Vitality in your video. We have a couple tips and suggestions for your future tests. If you did not add worm castings to the mix, then you should use the Supercharge rate when using Vitality. Use the lowest rate to maintain healthy plants. Vitality has natural plant hormones, so it’s ideal to apply it into the oil before or during seed starting.
Vitality builds up your soil and can fuel the seedling. Please try this using the highest rate to inoculate the soil if there are no other nutrients in media (peat moss, seed starting mix, or coco coir). We suggest continued use and long term observation because the benefits are also long term.
The plants in both pots look very stressed, and deficient- we believe you are seeing Nitrogen draft. Your results are very surprising as Vitality usually helps transplants and seedlings flourish. We are not sure why, but it could be the media or the dying seedlings.
By snipping them and leaving the stem and roots in the pot, they will rot and begin to break down in the soil which can cause stress to the living plants.
We also suggest fully removing seedlings when you thin them out. If there is not fully composted material in the media you will experience “nitrogen draft”.
This is where organic matter being decomposed by microorganisms will scavenge available N before the plant can. A nitrogen draft occurs when organic matter that is high in carbohydrates but low in nitrogen is mixed into the soil. As the carbohydrate is consumed, the microorganisms decline, releasing the nitrogen in their bodies to the soil again. Here’s a good article on Nitrogen Draft www.agroconection.com/feeding/nitrogen-draft/
Hope you give it another try, thank you.
Wow. This is quite possibly the best "try again with our suggestions for better results" that I have ever read. I don't even use the product and I'm thinking "shoot, I'm gonna grab some of that and try it". Well done.
I'm thinking the product is intended for a much larger volume of soil in order to support a healthy soil biology.
Did u use tap water with thw worm juice? If so, chlorine may be killing the microbes?
I watched one of your videos and you were using a new time lapse camera. I'm trying to find that video. I'd love to have the brand and model number!
Brinno…either the 720p or 1080p model. Not too much difference in quality though.
@@GrowingAnswers Thank you!
Not sure if you can answer this but I;m going to ask anyhow. I really enjoy your tutorials. I'm in Australia & winter is on its way I am researching to no avail as to what I need to be getting to provide necessary hours of light in my poly tunnel to get good dark leafy greens & tomatoes etc through the winter months. the prices in the shops are insane & climbing so going to invest in growing green goods on the farm. I want to do Solar panel & LED stripe lighing or tape lighting hopefully but open to suggestions, I have not found anything as to what is needed online, any & all suggestions greatfully accepted. thanks Sandi A Canadian in Oz.
You can find strip lighting in a lot of places online. if you match DC to DC power then the panel will power the lights in linear with daylight intensity. Use daylight white led's.
But you did say that you were going to use more than what was stated right??
I started off using between the general amount and the initial boost. Then after a few weeks I used quite a bit more than general use.
When transplanting to soil try inoculation of your soil with "BEAM". You can make your own or purchase it. 😎👍
Be nice to see PGR’s vs ...Cold extracted kelp, macro nutrients and NPK vs just NPK and macros
Well there's natural and synthetic PGRs so you'll have to be specific
@@Freedom_Born personally , cold extracted kelp has made a huge change in my garden but alfalfa has as well. I don’t use any inorganic ones but I feel like PGR’’s in general is a topic most of the public should be aware of but it is rarely brought attention. so anything exploring the topic would be cool. Kelp i feel like would make the most dramatic difference for visible representation in a video tho ... not being a fisher man I’ve seen plants grow up two 6 inches in one day with cold extracted kelp
@@Freedom_Born that was with cal-mag (monster cal ) and Reamos velvo kelp 1,1,1 at 800 ppm in a earthbox definitely not a cheap test but results were unbelievable
The main culprits to be aware of are paclobutrazol and chlormequat (spelling*). Those two are the most widely used synth PGRs - gba (giberellin) is a natural occurring pgr but still detrimental if used excessively.
I live where the stuff is rampant. Hence why I grow my own. The synth ones are highly carcinogenic. Cancer causing toxicity. They’re used as a cash crop enhancer, producing twice as fast. Fat and rock hard nugs. But trichomes stop producing and pistils turn a noticeable dark red. Definitely not something to be consumed. For non consumable plants like ornamentals and such, they’re perfectly fine. Because you’re not ingesting it and it makes the plant look more aesthetically desirable. But for anything consumable synthetic PGR is an absolute no no.
Nice channel and experiments. However i think to get a good result you would need to test it on a bigger scale. This sample size is not big enough to give good results.
The sample size comes from doing the same experiment essentially multiple times. And I did test the earthworm castings outside with watermelons too.
I like using fish emulsion for young plants, but I grow weed not tomatoes
Just say no Steve🤣
bulllshit what he did