Jake, Based on your video I called Harbor Freight’s toll free number to see if they had a refurbished 5 stage unit that be more affordable to me and left a voicemail. Yesterday I decided to go to a local Harbor Freight to see if they had a refurbished one. I didn’t see one. I asked the manager to see if he could put me on a waiting list for one. He did better than that. He went to the back and wheeled one over to me. He let me look it over and I bought it for just under $400.00. I am so grateful. I will get some prices on epoxy primer, start sanding down some parts and get spraying.
My local HF has the 3 stage on the return shelf, ( open box) for 200$ there going to mark it down even more tomorrow if it's still there, I will buy it if it is!
I bought the avanti 3 stage kit. It has been great. I spray a lot of rustolium type paints... and it works great. does not matter if its oil or water based. I have done a bunch of projects. I called avanti to order the other available needle sets and they were very easy to work with. I am glad you did this video... thank you..
Do you use Rustoleum paints for external automotive applications? Rustoleum makes Gloss Red Apple and I would love to use that. If you do, what would you mix it with? Thank you.
Fantastic set of videos to go with this specific machine. This is the route I'm going to go to paint my 2009 ford ranger since it will be in pieces and a lot has changed in the 10 years since I was an automotive reconditioner and I don't want to go back to a compressor setup as I only do small amounts of work now. Great videos. Super helpful.
Painting has gotten easier using turbines. Press the on/off button and go. No draining water from air compressor tanks or pre filters attached at the spray gun end. Lower overspray and waste, and less exhaust to filter. Thank you for watching and commenting.
Great video as I have been looking to repaint my car and was wondering about this HF turbine set up. I’ll check out your other videos as I would like to see more about the Flexzilla hose and 3M PPS setup. Thanks for sharing! ❤️😎
Thank you for the video very well done. I'm going to copy you on my setup because you got i figured out. I'm curious where you got the couplings for the garden hose conversion? I appreciate the help.🙏
I'm working on a video about the couplings and what works or doesn't work. The black couplings are from my old Apollo HVLP turbine hose. The Apollo hose was about 9 years old, so I custom made a Flexzilla hose and used the Apollo couplers. Avanti's couplers have an issue with directly fitting on the Flexzilla garden hose. The Avanti coupler has too long a dimension and the metal part will bottom out at the garden hose threads before the rubber gasket can seal the air - it will work on the Avanti original hose because the Avanti hose thread is smooth to the hose - whereas the Flexzilla has a step up before the hose part. Plus, Avanti coupler has a white plastic insert that needs to remain installed with the Avanti coupler or it will leak air. The Apollo couplers work the best for the Flexzilla hose mod, it's more flow thru and doesn't have a white plastic insert like the Avanti coupler. When I custom cut my Flexzilla hose, I used the Apollo barbed hose insert that the Apollo coupler threads onto and the spray gun connects to. I have a video on how I removed the Oetiker Clamps from my Apollo hose and fit it to the Flexzilla. Thanks for watching and commenting.
I bought the Avanti gun to use with my Apollo 4 stage to spray sealers and to use for non-automotive spraying. It uses the same 3m pps 2.0 adaptor my 7700 Apollo gun uses! And yes, the pressure cup is a Big advantage👍
On these notes I'm using a 4 stage capspray with Graco 2 edge with a 0.8 needle set with the gravity cup feed adapter they have. I sprayed sealer and not sure if it was because of old ppg multi purpose primer sealer with old hardner maybe a year or so old and or bad gun settings but I got dry spray tiger stripes Orange peel. I sprayed my car years ago and it came out great! Any pointers on gun settings. Should I have made my fan smaller, less air more material? Thanks guys 👍😎
@@1982mattd i've been adding slow reducer to help material flow. Wide open fan. No issues at all with epoxy or sealers with the turbine. Keeping a wet edge with each pass. You can always wait and wetsand the sealer the next day and reshoot it if its not acceptable.
@@BearBudgetgarage are u using a 0.8 also for sealers or a 1.3? I was definitely thinking of adding just a bit more of slow reducer! 😎👍 how far are u from panel? Thanks buddy
@@1982mattd last time I used a 1.0 with slow reducer. The time before that a 1.3 with the fluid turned in a bit more. I'm only a few inches from the panel and moving fairly fast. But everyone sprays differently.
I was able to buy an Avanti 5 stage store model today , but no hose for cheap money. I am now working on my courage and assembling my shopping list to spray my 68 Firebird. Your discussion of adapter has me confused. Q. Do I need the 2.0 for the gun that came with the sprayer or the legacy? (Do you have a link?) Q. Do you use the full 50' on the flexilla hose I am about to order using your link?
Check with your local HB store. Their website shows that they have a "replacement turbine spray gun" - in store only. Also, there are other manufactures that also make turbine spray guns. Using a regular air compressor type spray gun will not work, I've tried it .
Great video on this machine👍🏻 I guess HF has discontinued these, I kept looking at them and went to finally take the plunge a couple weeks ago and they were sold out including the display models all across the state I live in except for one I managed to find in a store about an hour from me that was a display model, got it for $200 which I think is a steal! It didn’t have the hoses or any of the spare stuff but the two tips, gun, turbine (of course) were there and like brand new so I grabbed it. I’m waiting on everything I need to show up so I can get going with it including some pps 2.0 liners ( which are ridiculously expensive as all 3m stuff is and has been forever ) I like your flexzilla hose idea and almost did it but found a Fuji super duty 30ft hose with built in 3ft heat sink for $65 and went with that. It’s Fuji’s heaviest duty and most expensive hose and normally sells for $110😅, if not for the huge discount I definitely would have went with the flexzilla, I have their air hose and love it. I’ve read numerous complaints on the HF hose it comes with so I’m glad I didn’t have to pay full price and then replace it lol. I’ve never used a turbine sprayer before but I’ve always been curious, I was an auto body painter for 27 years and have a pile of Sata guns, A couple Tekna/Devilbiss, etc., only one had a tip set big enough to spray the paint I’m using which is Sherwin Williams Emerald water based alkyd urethane and it worked, the stuff I’ve painted came out really nice but running 135ft of air hose from my garage and through the windows of my house is a pain lol, and being a conversion gun with no pressurization makes this stuff really tricky to shoot, plus there’s the pretty abundant amount of overspray to deal with also. I have a whole bunch of new trim/doors/ jambs to paint in my house and am hoping this does it easier and with less overspray, I’m excited to mess with it. I was going to use an airless sprayer but……. Meh Keep on keepin on 🙌🏻
Once you get used to how turbine spraying works, you'll really start having fun. The Avanti 5 stage has good power and the psi range will be around 9.5psi static pressure and when the air bleed occurs it's more like 8.4-5psi. Their turbine spray gun uses about 3 psi on trigger pull, and the back adjustment for the fan width will reduce the size of the fan but at the cost of reducing atomizing air pressure. So be conscious of that air to atomization relationship because you'll notice more orange peel if you reduce the fan width too much. As a comparison, the spray gun tips for turbine spraying auto clear favor 1.0mm and with the Avanti 5 stage, the 1.3mm is no problem - but you have to move fast enough because it will hose it on like you're using 1.5mm compressor gun and you might get runs. Make sure you get full saturation with the lay down too, otherwise the spray will look used car lot dry. On my other channel " Turbine Sprayer" I go into more details on specific topics, check it out when you have time. I also like to cycle my machines to off whenever possible - when I"m not spraying in between flash off times - doing so will reduce any heat building up and it will be quieter in the room. If spraying in hotter days, it's a good idea to place a fan to help cool the machine if it gets too warm. Also, if you're spraying outside work, the sun will warm the hose and machine fast so be conscious of that too, and look for shade if possible. Don't use too long of a hose because you'll get pressure drop at the air cap and paint atomization will suffer. I've maxed to 35ft and eventually shortened my hose to 30ft and 15ft for my needs. You're lucky to have found a machine, in my area they are sold out within over a 100 mile radius and only display models with missing pieces - but at bargain prices a great deal.
@@JakeLesada thanks Jake! That’s great info and advice, and much appreciated! I didn’t know you had another channel, I’m definitely going to check it out. Thanks again!👊🏻
Yeah, I actually did testing with my Apollo spray gun and the Avanti - but only using water as my material. I got data on results and it works. I did temperature readings at the air outlet from Avanti and it was about 10F -12F above ambient at BOOTH Wall side of hose. But, the spray gun end of hose it was 2F degrees above ambient. To me that's nominal, but this was only a short duration spray test - not a long duration heat test. Heat builds up over time. Turbine machines have always had to battle heating issues and that's the reason why certain manufactures dominate with their technologies, and their ability to keep their machine cool and protect motor life. I'll see what happens as I do longer sessions with the Avanti - and how heat builds up or is controlled with their design. We'll see... The wall spray test glossed out with a wide spray pattern and fast speed. Since it's nonadjustable air psi at the machine end - the fan pattern is wide and speed is fast. I did about 8 notches in on fan ring with my Apollo spray gun and ran more fluid mix because of the extra air cfm and nonadjustable machine. I'm getting an opinion but, not ready to share yet. All I know is spraying with turbine technology is the way to go.
@@JakeLesada thanks for the info. I will be interested to see your follow up on this unit as time goes by👍 All onboard with the turbine! I will be trying a 5 stage unit next. My used Apollo is a 4 stage. It will be a Sprayfine replacement 5 stage tuebine with zero accessories or gun(don't need). This is budget priced and just a little more than the price I seen for the HF Avanti. So within my budget for now. I've got the guns, the needle/nozzles/caps, 3m pressure cup, liners, hose, flex hose everything I need. And plenty of jobs lined up to apply the turbine system to👍
Yes, check out the video on "Beginners Classes" I take apart and reassemble spray guns. The clear front mod is revealed in "Mod Revealed" video. The front mod is a water bottle cut out and fitted with blue fine line vinyl tape. If you have time, checkout my new channel "Turbine Sprayer", I'm do more spraying videos in low psi and my other spray guns. Thank you for watching.
Help! I got an Avanti 5 stage turbine. The gun blows air out around the trigger when it is pulled and air always blows out of the port hole in the back of the turbine unit. Very little pressure at the nozzle. Is this normal?
That is not normal. There are several places the air could be leaking from. Check with soapy water to try and pinpoint exactly where the air leak is coming from. The coupler at the bottom where the hose attaches could be leaking the air, and that air could transfer up thru the handle and appear to show the leak is in that area around the trigger. The section at the back of the spray gun where the mixture needle slides into could also have air leaking around the fitting. The trigger area, you will notice a brass slide and a white seal gasket, check for air leaks around that area with soapy water. I made you a video to try and replicate possible scenarios. I discovered an air leak after I took the spray gun apart and reassembled it. The air leak was from the bottom of my spray gun with the coupler fitting not sealing properly. I removed the handle and wrapped teflon tape and then reassembled the fitting - the result no air leaks. I'm working on posting the video, however it is lengthy as I was also discovering new problems as I took my spray gun apart. Should be a up in a couple hours.
@@JakeLesada Thanks Jake. Turns out the needle plug sealing gasket behind the trigger had not been pressed-in. Your video breaking-down the gun & checking for leaks was very helpful. Works as it should now. HF doesn't sell it anymore. Know if needles/caps are interchangeable with other brands or where there available? I also did the Flexzilla hose mod. Any thoughts on the heat issue at the turbine hose connection? My sprayer hose is connected directly to the unit degrading it. I thought maybe an aluminum leader pipe w/ fins or something to dissipate the heat of the air coming out of the turbine unit? Your setup running the connection though a wall to a secondary connection may be dealing with this issue, but I need to maintain the units portability. Thanks again so much for responding. I didn't really expect you would since it's been some time since you made the 1st videos. Nice to know you actually pay attention to your subscribers. You're Awesome!!
I opened up the machine and did some testing with some of the components. It's a simple design and all the parts look replaceable using parts from different manufacturers.
What number 2.0 adapter is that? I just made a u tube conversion to make it a gravity feed, but i guess i could also go with to he bottom feed h/o, i have my conversion setup with the 1.0 spectrum system, but it has a hole that i have to seal and put the nipple from the cup in to make it work, but i will probably just buy the legit 2.0 3M setup! I also bought the Niagara 100ft 3/4 contractor hose, and to be honest it looks better to me than the flexzilla i seen at Walmart for double the price, it is light and really flexible just like the flexzilla, but we will see how good it works eventually! It will be awhile before i paint my truck, i have the money saved to buy all my paint and primer s i just need to get some color matched and figure out what sealer/ epoxy i want to go with, it's a older truck so i want it to last forever!
In this video I'm using the 3M adapter S18, it's the longer adapter. designed for the bottom feed. But now, I use the shorter S34 adapter originally designed for the top feed spray guns. It works and is shorter and lighter than the S18. The "S" designates it as the 2.0 version and the #18 or#34 adapter designates it as the 1.0 version. Just remember the shorter the air hose the stronger the air cap pressure at the spray gun. I cut my hose down now to a 30ft and 15ft length. I also use sandwich bags as my liners for the 3M PPS system.
@@JakeLesada yeah I read up and seen the s#'s are 2.0, I just wasn't sure what number. And I'm definitely cutting the 100ft down to a more practical length. I will be painting a vehicle in a booth so I will have a long hose for that and a short hose for smaller projects. I wonder if the spectrum liners work in the 3M setup? Didn't spectrum just copy them? The liners are cheap at HF but a sandwich bag is a great idea, especially if painting something besides automotive! Thanx for the reply, I'm sure il be back with plenty of questions as I get this rig up and running! Your the best brother!
I think the Spectrum liners are meant for the 1.0 version PPS. Compare the top center opening of the liner lid. The 1.0 is small in diameter, and the 2.0 is a larger opening. Also, the hose I'm using is a 5/8" diameter.
Hello Jake, For Legacy version part: 3M Adapter #18 which lid system you use for The H/O Pressure Cup (Mini) is 3M 16121. What is the model number and what cheaper you mentioned maybe compatible lids you use.
The 3M 16121 is the (Mini) size I use for Legacy version. But, lately I've been using the 3M Adapter S34 (shorter and meant for top feed turbine spray gun) with the 3M 2.0 PPS H.O. Cup. 26121 Midi. The liners are the 6oz., and I use those with the "sandwich bag mod". If you watch the "Sandwich bag mod" video it will explain. Sorry couldn't get you the part number for the liners right now, I have to jet. Thank you for watching.
This unit is decent, and would work for the weekend warrior. But remember, painting skill is more important than any machine. Watch my video on beginner's classes, it explains more about making decisions on what is a better choice for you. Thank you so much for watching and commenting.
The length of the Flexzilla is 5/8x50ft., but I cut it into two different lengths - 15ft and about 30ft. Watch my video on painting stuff and explaining the Flexzilla hose mod - 50ft is too long in length and will have pressure drop at the spray gun air cap. You want more cap pressure to atomize paint, so don't go too long in length. When, I modded up the Flexzilla, I used the Apollo fittings and couplers, they work excellent. Also, watch my Oetiker clamp reusing video, those are the clamps I used to make the mod.
Of course man, I'm using my old M2000 and the M3000 for automotive stuff. I saw this Avanti at HB, and said no way. I bought and started testing it out. It's a great way for everyone with a budget to experience the turbine spraying world. They can always upgrade sooner or later to Apollo. Got to run more on this topic later on...
With turbine spraying, the cup is pressurized from the side air tube going into the cup. Once the cup is pressured, the air forces the fluid out similar to how gravity would flow the fluid out of the tip. The advantage to gravity feed would be the natural familiarity of spraying if someone is crossing over from compressor style paint spraying to turbine paint spraying. I have an older video on this channel that shows the difference, " compressor vs. turbine spraying".
Performancrewise with metallics etc not an issue then? just wondering because i just grabbed a avanti 5 stage on open box and have a fuji unit but wanted to try the avanti gun with the pps
In this video it is the 3M Legacy 1.0 version, and I'm using it with the longer 3M PPS #18 adapter meant for bottom feed. But, now I also use the 2.0 version with the S34 shorter adapter which normally is used for the top feed style turbine spray guns, it works. And, the liners I use are sandwich bags. I get 200 sandwich bags for under $1.50
@@JakeLesada thank you so much I'm gonna order that right now. Thanks for the turbine content nobody else on youtube going as in depth to it as you are.
I'm not going to make any recommendations yet because I haven't sprayed single stage with this unit. However, based on my initial testing of how it behaves with water and how it operates, it looks very promising. Also, consider what brand of single stage paint you are using and the solids content of the material and type of hardener or activator ingredients - not necessarily the temperature choice, but the actual ingredients of the isocyanate in the hardener or activator. Some single stage, no matter what and how you mix tends to peel or tighten up. Some single stage brand paints flow and level regardless of spray gun or machine. When I get some single stage paint I'll do some testing and find out.
@@JakeLesada I wish I knew that some ss paint levels regardless. I shot basf/rm/limco ss paint the other day and it gave me a 'four out of ten' orange peel. I think it was the gun setup; 1.0 tip with the needle turned in pretty good, and I think I should have used slow or extra slow reducer since I shot it outside in the Sun. Cut got it flat but the sand scratches are somewhat noticeable. I'll sand and reshoot sometime in the near future.
Yeah, I have sprayed PPG Delfleet Essentials Single Stage on the hottest day outside. The problem with outside spraying will be the air hose getting heated up from the sun shining onto it, or also the machine heating up and both those factors changing the spraying air temp to hot. The surface temp of the panel will be an issue too. If you can get an inexpensive temperature reader to temp the panel - you'll see surface and hose temp in degrees and from there, you'll get a better guess at what you can do to make a difficult paint day workout for the better. Try to shade the air hose somehow before you actually spray and then depending on how the paint is showing on the panel - adjust the spray gun closer to get more wet saturation - try and get paint flow before dry out to orange peel. And, you'll also have to move fast to keep the edge from kicking over to slick. The way to move fast is to adjust the material flow to rich and if possible pressure up to get more atomizing pressure at the air cap. Depending on which brand of spray gun you're using - adjust on a test spray wall so you can see what it looks like before going to the panel. Do the test in a short actual spraying pass and not just a static straight shot at the wall. You've got to move as if you are spraying, but only in a short pass. You'll see then what's actually happening with the paint. Yeah, good idea to have extra temp reducer on hand, but if not possible - always try to get full wet saturation by moving closer or fluid up and go richer. If you are seeing sand scratches, remember paint has windows of opportunity for certain task. Too soon and it's a mess, too late and you have to abrade for mechanical paint grab. And, sometimes you just have to wait - do something else to let the paint cure over to off gas and let it dry out to the next window of opportunity.
@@JakeLesada With my machine, I did your test with the water and found that my 1.5 needle/tip with a few turns out lays the glossy finish you talked about; I just have to move the gun a bit faster. Would I run into troubles 'chemically' by shooting my ss 2k paint "over-thinned" beyond what the manufacturer recommends (solvent pop, delamination, haziness, adhesion, etc.)? For my 4:1:1 ratio I was thinking maybe 4 to 1.5 or 4 to 2 to get the viscosity the gun might like better.
Yeah, it's not wise to over thin the material. If the mix allows a 4:1:1 ratio, that is more than sufficient to give you flow. A 1.5 needle and tip can flow single stage easily and water very easily. If you are able to gloss out the water great, try leaning your mix to have the water spray dry and then in small increments fluid out to gloss and figure out the pace can you move comfortably without rushing to get gloss. I count about 3-4 seconds on a panel pass as good, 5-6 seconds is slow. Think - "mixture, distance and speed". When the mix is dry you have to move slow to get gloss. When the mix is wet or over wet you have to move fast to avoid runs. The balancing act is achieving your speed to wet gloss and no runs. Part of that equation is the air psi and the amount of cfm your machine can or can't give you. But, if you can achieve glossy water you can achieve glossy paint. The larger the needle and tip size the more air psi or cfm it will crave. When you go smaller in needle and tip size you can use less air - but the question will be - can this small size push the molecule size of what you are spraying. If it's too small a needle and tip is gets choked up and super craves air to push it thru and atomize - this will give you orange peel and overspray. And, as always since you asked about your custom mix ratio - do it, experiment and see if it works. Sometimes going out of spec does work, just remember you'll have more solvent to flash off (dry, off gas) between coats. Solvent pop happens when you bury the coat with another coat too soon and the paint slicks over to dry. Or, it happens if you add more than the recommended coats in too fast a total time batch. Example, at the collision center we sprayed Sherwin Williams fast high solids clear and everything was laying out show style - then we said let's add another coat cause it's going so well - the panel didn't like that and it horribly solvent pop. Luckily it was on that one panel cause we stopped the process with that one panel. If your spray gun can gloss water - your spray gun can gloss paint. Speed is only relative to how fast you want to move or how fast you HAVE to move when spraying. You'll get it, do some testing and prove your test works.
The difference between a stage 3 and stage 5 turbine is the amount of internal fans built into the turbine. The more fans stacked into the turbine will be a higher stage fan unit. I have sprayed with a very early version turbine unit and it had no power to atomize water when I sprayed. Water spraying practice is how I check to see if I can spray paint with a machine. If I can atomize and spray water, and make it glossy, I know I can spray auto paint with the machine. Without first spray testing the Avaniti, I felt the air pressure and flow amount at the store, and from my spraying experience I knew it would work for my spraying needs. Avanti does have a 3 stage, but I have not tested or tried that unit. Thank you for watching and commenting.
You mentioned the 0.8 needle for base coat and/or the 1.3 for base and clear. I actually used the 3 stage Avanti similar to this one to paint a portion of my son's Honda Pilot. I didn't take any notes on which needles I used but purchased both from HF. So I have all 3. .8, 1.3 and 1.8. Will be completing the rest of the Pilot soon. What are your needle recommendations with this gun for primer, base and clear? 1.8 for the 2K primer? Or the 1.3 also. I will actually be testing on a 96 Nissan truck that is badly in need of a paint job.
I still have to order a 0.8mm for base coats. The 0.8mm has always been the common size for base coat with turbine spraying. HB has the 1.3mm good for clear coats or sealer primers and some primers with less solids. The 1.3mm will work for base coats but you have to move fast - the psi with this machine is good. The 1.8mm should work for 2k primers easily - but it depends on how thin or thick the 2k flows, just be careful you don't over saturate or flood out the lay down and give it time to flash properly. If you can work with the 1.3mm and get decent results with 2k primers great, go with that - I prefer a straight panel with excellent body work and less relying on high build primers to get the panel straight. Primers and all products sprayed need to be at a minimum and a maximum of dry film mils thickness. Spray too thin and you'll have no adhesion grab or coverage - too thick and it could crack. If you try to bury with high build - understand how much shrinkage your material dries down. Sometimes it looks good, but after it shrinks the sand scratches will come back and surprise you. Common recipe: Primers - 1.3mm to 1.8mm, Base coats - 0.8mm, (1.3mm will work but has heavy wet if you move slow), Clear Coat - 1.3mm works excellent. Also note, depending on the clear coat brand or type you use, sometimes that clear coat will flow like glass or peel like an orange. Overall clear coats tend to flow more before locking in the dry. Fast dry or quick clears - depending on the solids in the mix - tend to orange peel more like factory oem texture. The longer it takes to dry - the more time clear coat will flow. So, you are either battling dust or bugs in diy or cut n buff when it speed dries with texture. Good luck with the 96 Nissan Truck.
@@JakeLesada Thanks for the info and reply. One more question. I think I'm gonna try the 3M PPS H/O Pressure Cup setup. Are you using the 13.5 ounce cup or the 28 ounce cup?
I think it's the 13.5 ounce, or however many ounces my H.O. cup is. It's more of a medium H.O. size. I know it's not the 28oz. Just did a spray out with Avanti 5 stage and base coat with 2:1 + 10% reducer clear coat. It worked out decent I'll be posting that soon. I used the 1.3mm needle and tip for both the base coat and the clear coat. And, I choked down the air fan adjustment to halfway with a .75 fluid mix out.
It's priced as of today on Harbor Freight's website at $599.00 US. I don't know if they deliver to Canada, the item is an in store purchase only item. Another, person living in Florida wanted it shipped, but they had to drive to the nearest Harbor Freight to purchase it. I would be able to paint a whole car with it, no problem. Thank you for watching and commenting. Let us know if you are able to get one in Canada.
As a note*, I have not sprayed marine paint with this 5 stage. However, most marine paints have a viscosity that I think this Avanti 5 stage could handle, and this 5 stage has plenty of atomizing power. In the past, I've sprayed Awlgrip 545 epoxy primer and I know how that stuff flows and sprays, this Avanti 5 stage could spray it no problem. Epoxy sprayable fairing compound would need the larger needle and tip and would need the 5-25% reducer to get better flow. Above the waterline top coats should be easy too. All paint applications are based on wet mils or dry mils thickness and viscosity flow rates. I think this 5 stage could handle marine paint, it's got wild psi and cfm power to atomize.
@@JakeLesada I’m planning on using Total Boat wet edge one part Topside paint. It is a polyurethane paint. Hopefully it works out. Thanks for the info and the videos.
I just read up on the TDS sheet of Total Boat Topside Paint and it looks like an easy to apply coating. They're allowing for reducers and mils paint dry thickness is within a normal thickness. Nothing too thick and not too thin with 2-3 coats application. Should work out no problem. Thank you for watching and commenting.
@@JakeLesada one more question- have you had any issues with it overheating? Several of the Harbor Freight reviews state that the 5 stage was overheating. There are much better reviews on the 3 stage. 🤷🏻
I shop at several places. In town I shop at Automotive Supply, Ander's Auto and Finish Master. Online I shop at Autobody Toolmart, Tamco, and Speedokote.
Jake,
Based on your video I called Harbor Freight’s toll free number to see if they had a refurbished 5 stage unit that be more affordable to me and left a voicemail. Yesterday I decided to go to a local Harbor Freight to see if they had a refurbished one. I didn’t see one. I asked the manager to see if he could put me on a waiting list for one. He did better than that. He went to the back and wheeled one over to me. He let me look it over and I bought it for just under $400.00. I am so grateful. I will get some prices on epoxy primer, start sanding down some parts and get spraying.
That is the best price ever. You got lucky, that is so cool the manager had one in the back. Just press the on/off button and start spraying.
My local HF has the 3 stage on the return shelf, ( open box) for 200$ there going to mark it down even more tomorrow if it's still there, I will buy it if it is!
I bought it for 160, no hose and filter housing is broken but I taped it and like new!
I bought the avanti 3 stage kit. It has been great. I spray a lot of rustolium type paints... and it works great. does not matter if its oil or water based. I have done a bunch of projects. I called avanti to order the other available needle sets and they were very easy to work with. I am glad you did this video... thank you..
You are so welcome. Thank you for taking the time to watch and comment. I just plumbed the Avanti 5 stage with a thru - wall booth setup.
Do you use Rustoleum paints for external automotive applications? Rustoleum makes Gloss Red Apple and I would love to use that. If you do, what would you mix it with? Thank you.
Fantastic set of videos to go with this specific machine. This is the route I'm going to go to paint my 2009 ford ranger since it will be in pieces and a lot has changed in the 10 years since I was an automotive reconditioner and I don't want to go back to a compressor setup as I only do small amounts of work now. Great videos. Super helpful.
Painting has gotten easier using turbines. Press the on/off button and go. No draining water from air compressor tanks or pre filters attached at the spray gun end. Lower overspray and waste, and less exhaust to filter. Thank you for watching and commenting.
Just ordered the Flexilla hose. Great idea👍 I have the flexilla air compressor hose and really like it, so heck yeah, ordered the garden hose!
The hose will be wrapped tight in packaging, but it will unravel and relax. It's way lighter and when it's good to go - have fun spraying!
This really is a fantastic video
Thank you for watching and commenting.
Great video as I have been looking to repaint my car and was wondering about this HF turbine set up. I’ll check out your other videos as I would like to see more about the Flexzilla hose and 3M PPS setup. Thanks for sharing! ❤️😎
Thank you so much for watching and commenting.
Thank you for the video very well done. I'm going to copy you on my setup because you got i figured out. I'm curious where you got the couplings for the garden hose conversion? I appreciate the help.🙏
I'm working on a video about the couplings and what works or doesn't work. The black couplings are from my old Apollo HVLP turbine hose. The Apollo hose was about 9 years old, so I custom made a Flexzilla hose and used the Apollo couplers. Avanti's couplers have an issue with directly fitting on the Flexzilla garden hose. The Avanti coupler has too long a dimension and the metal part will bottom out at the garden hose threads before the rubber gasket can seal the air - it will work on the Avanti original hose because the Avanti hose thread is smooth to the hose - whereas the Flexzilla has a step up before the hose part. Plus, Avanti coupler has a white plastic insert that needs to remain installed with the Avanti coupler or it will leak air. The Apollo couplers work the best for the Flexzilla hose mod, it's more flow thru and doesn't have a white plastic insert like the Avanti coupler. When I custom cut my Flexzilla hose, I used the Apollo barbed hose insert that the Apollo coupler threads onto and the spray gun connects to. I have a video on how I removed the Oetiker Clamps from my Apollo hose and fit it to the Flexzilla. Thanks for watching and commenting.
I bought the Avanti gun to use with my Apollo 4 stage to spray sealers and to use for non-automotive spraying. It uses the same 3m pps 2.0 adaptor my 7700 Apollo gun uses! And yes, the pressure cup is a Big advantage👍
It's ideal that the same fittings work on two different brands of turbine spray guns. 3m has got it right on!
On these notes I'm using a 4 stage capspray with Graco 2 edge with a 0.8 needle set with the gravity cup feed adapter they have. I sprayed sealer and not sure if it was because of old ppg multi purpose primer sealer with old hardner maybe a year or so old and or bad gun settings but I got dry spray tiger stripes Orange peel. I sprayed my car years ago and it came out great! Any pointers on gun settings. Should I have made my fan smaller, less air more material? Thanks guys 👍😎
@@1982mattd i've been adding slow reducer to help material flow. Wide open fan. No issues at all with epoxy or sealers with the turbine. Keeping a wet edge with each pass. You can always wait and wetsand the sealer the next day and reshoot it if its not acceptable.
@@BearBudgetgarage are u using a 0.8 also for sealers or a 1.3? I was definitely thinking of adding just a bit more of slow reducer! 😎👍 how far are u from panel? Thanks buddy
@@1982mattd last time I used a 1.0 with slow reducer. The time before that a 1.3 with the fluid turned in a bit more. I'm only a few inches from the panel and moving fairly fast. But everyone sprays differently.
I was able to buy an Avanti 5 stage store model today , but no hose for cheap money. I am now working on my courage and assembling my shopping list to spray my 68 Firebird.
Your discussion of adapter has me confused.
Q. Do I need the 2.0 for the gun that came with the sprayer or the legacy? (Do you have a link?)
Q. Do you use the full 50' on the flexilla hose I am about to order using your link?
This video was excellent! I was looking into this turbine and you nailed the break down.
Thank you for watching and commenting.
@@JakeLesada Where can you find the extra spray guns?
Check with your local HB store. Their website shows that they have a "replacement turbine spray gun" - in store only. Also, there are other manufactures that also make turbine spray guns. Using a regular air compressor type spray gun will not work, I've tried it .
Can a pressure pot assembly kit be connected to that machine?
Sure, it's possible. I don't spray with a pressure pot though. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Hello,what pps adapter are you using for Avanti gun? Thanks in advance.
3M Adapter #S18. Also known as part number: PN-26054
Great video on this machine👍🏻
I guess HF has discontinued these, I kept looking at them and went to finally take the plunge a couple weeks ago and they were sold out including the display models all across the state I live in except for one I managed to find in a store about an hour from me that was a display model, got it for $200 which I think is a steal! It didn’t have the hoses or any of the spare stuff but the two tips, gun, turbine (of course) were there and like brand new so I grabbed it. I’m waiting on everything I need to show up so I can get going with it including some pps 2.0 liners ( which are ridiculously expensive as all 3m stuff is and has been forever )
I like your flexzilla hose idea and almost did it but found a Fuji super duty 30ft hose with built in 3ft heat sink for $65 and went with that. It’s Fuji’s heaviest duty and most expensive hose and normally sells for $110😅, if not for the huge discount I definitely would have went with the flexzilla, I have their air hose and love it.
I’ve read numerous complaints on the HF hose it comes with so I’m glad I didn’t have to pay full price and then replace it lol.
I’ve never used a turbine sprayer before but I’ve always been curious, I was an auto body painter for 27 years and have a pile of Sata guns, A couple Tekna/Devilbiss, etc., only one had a tip set big enough to spray the paint I’m using which is Sherwin Williams Emerald water based alkyd urethane and it worked, the stuff I’ve painted came out really nice but running 135ft of air hose from my garage and through the windows of my house is a pain lol, and being a conversion gun with no pressurization makes this stuff really tricky to shoot, plus there’s the pretty abundant amount of overspray to deal with also.
I have a whole bunch of new trim/doors/ jambs to paint in my house and am hoping this does it easier and with less overspray, I’m excited to mess with it. I was going to use an airless sprayer but……. Meh
Keep on keepin on 🙌🏻
Once you get used to how turbine spraying works, you'll really start having fun. The Avanti 5 stage has good power and the psi range will be around 9.5psi static pressure and when the air bleed occurs it's more like 8.4-5psi. Their turbine spray gun uses about 3 psi on trigger pull, and the back adjustment for the fan width will reduce the size of the fan but at the cost of reducing atomizing air pressure. So be conscious of that air to atomization relationship because you'll notice more orange peel if you reduce the fan width too much. As a comparison, the spray gun tips for turbine spraying auto clear favor 1.0mm and with the Avanti 5 stage, the 1.3mm is no problem - but you have to move fast enough because it will hose it on like you're using 1.5mm compressor gun and you might get runs. Make sure you get full saturation with the lay down too, otherwise the spray will look used car lot dry. On my other channel " Turbine Sprayer" I go into more details on specific topics, check it out when you have time. I also like to cycle my machines to off whenever possible - when I"m not spraying in between flash off times - doing so will reduce any heat building up and it will be quieter in the room. If spraying in hotter days, it's a good idea to place a fan to help cool the machine if it gets too warm. Also, if you're spraying outside work, the sun will warm the hose and machine fast so be conscious of that too, and look for shade if possible. Don't use too long of a hose because you'll get pressure drop at the air cap and paint atomization will suffer. I've maxed to 35ft and eventually shortened my hose to 30ft and 15ft for my needs. You're lucky to have found a machine, in my area they are sold out within over a 100 mile radius and only display models with missing pieces - but at bargain prices a great deal.
@@JakeLesada thanks Jake! That’s great info and advice, and much appreciated!
I didn’t know you had another channel, I’m definitely going to check it out. Thanks again!👊🏻
Thanks for setting me up
Any time, and thank you for watching and commenting.
Hey, can you demo the Avanti turbine with the Apollo 7500 or 7700 gun? Was interested in the results
Yeah, I actually did testing with my Apollo spray gun and the Avanti - but only using water as my material. I got data on results and it works. I did temperature readings at the air outlet from Avanti and it was about 10F -12F above ambient at BOOTH Wall side of hose. But, the spray gun end of hose it was 2F degrees above ambient. To me that's nominal, but this was only a short duration spray test - not a long duration heat test. Heat builds up over time. Turbine machines have always had to battle heating issues and that's the reason why certain manufactures dominate with their technologies, and their ability to keep their machine cool and protect motor life. I'll see what happens as I do longer sessions with the Avanti - and how heat builds up or is controlled with their design. We'll see... The wall spray test glossed out with a wide spray pattern and fast speed. Since it's nonadjustable air psi at the machine end - the fan pattern is wide and speed is fast. I did about 8 notches in on fan ring with my Apollo spray gun and ran more fluid mix because of the extra air cfm and nonadjustable machine. I'm getting an opinion but, not ready to share yet. All I know is spraying with turbine technology is the way to go.
@@JakeLesada thanks for the info. I will be interested to see your follow up on this unit as time goes by👍 All onboard with the turbine! I will be trying a 5 stage unit next. My used Apollo is a 4 stage. It will be a Sprayfine replacement 5 stage tuebine with zero accessories or gun(don't need). This is budget priced and just a little more than the price I seen for the HF Avanti. So within my budget for now. I've got the guns, the needle/nozzles/caps, 3m pressure cup, liners, hose, flex hose everything I need. And plenty of jobs lined up to apply the turbine system to👍
Do you have a video on your gun build?
Yes, check out the video on "Beginners Classes" I take apart and reassemble spray guns. The clear front mod is revealed in "Mod Revealed" video. The front mod is a water bottle cut out and fitted with blue fine line vinyl tape. If you have time, checkout my new channel "Turbine Sprayer", I'm do more spraying videos in low psi and my other spray guns. Thank you for watching.
Help! I got an Avanti 5 stage turbine. The gun blows air out around the trigger when it is pulled and air always blows out of the port hole in the back of the turbine unit. Very little pressure at the nozzle. Is this normal?
That is not normal. There are several places the air could be leaking from. Check with soapy water to try and pinpoint exactly where the air leak is coming from. The coupler at the bottom where the hose attaches could be leaking the air, and that air could transfer up thru the handle and appear to show the leak is in that area around the trigger. The section at the back of the spray gun where the mixture needle slides into could also have air leaking around the fitting. The trigger area, you will notice a brass slide and a white seal gasket, check for air leaks around that area with soapy water. I made you a video to try and replicate possible scenarios. I discovered an air leak after I took the spray gun apart and reassembled it. The air leak was from the bottom of my spray gun with the coupler fitting not sealing properly. I removed the handle and wrapped teflon tape and then reassembled the fitting - the result no air leaks. I'm working on posting the video, however it is lengthy as I was also discovering new problems as I took my spray gun apart. Should be a up in a couple hours.
@@JakeLesada Thanks Jake. Turns out the needle plug sealing gasket behind the trigger had not been pressed-in. Your video breaking-down the gun & checking for leaks was very helpful. Works as it should now.
HF doesn't sell it anymore. Know if needles/caps are interchangeable with other brands or where there available?
I also did the Flexzilla hose mod. Any thoughts on the heat issue at the turbine hose connection? My sprayer hose is connected directly to the unit degrading it. I thought maybe an aluminum leader pipe w/ fins or something to dissipate the heat of the air coming out of the turbine unit? Your setup running the connection though a wall to a secondary connection may be dealing with this issue, but I need to maintain the units portability.
Thanks again so much for responding. I didn't really expect you would since it's been some time since you made the 1st videos. Nice to know you actually pay attention to your subscribers. You're Awesome!!
Harbor stopped selling this item so now if you need parts we are screwed
I opened up the machine and did some testing with some of the components. It's a simple design and all the parts look replaceable using parts from different manufacturers.
I’d like to know what fittings and size hose you replaced the hose that came with the unit. Thank you for the video! Nice work
I spoke too soon haha. Going to get a garden hose now.
If you get the chance - watch my Flexzilla hose video, it explains what I used. Thank you for watching and commenting too.
What number 2.0 adapter is that? I just made a u tube conversion to make it a gravity feed, but i guess i could also go with to he bottom feed h/o, i have my conversion setup with the 1.0 spectrum system, but it has a hole that i have to seal and put the nipple from the cup in to make it work, but i will probably just buy the legit 2.0 3M setup! I also bought the Niagara 100ft 3/4 contractor hose, and to be honest it looks better to me than the flexzilla i seen at Walmart for double the price, it is light and really flexible just like the flexzilla, but we will see how good it works eventually! It will be awhile before i paint my truck, i have the money saved to buy all my paint and primer s i just need to get some color matched and figure out what sealer/ epoxy i want to go with, it's a older truck so i want it to last forever!
In this video I'm using the 3M adapter S18, it's the longer adapter. designed for the bottom feed. But now, I use the shorter S34 adapter originally designed for the top feed spray guns. It works and is shorter and lighter than the S18. The "S" designates it as the 2.0 version and the #18 or#34 adapter designates it as the 1.0 version. Just remember the shorter the air hose the stronger the air cap pressure at the spray gun. I cut my hose down now to a 30ft and 15ft length. I also use sandwich bags as my liners for the 3M PPS system.
@@JakeLesada yeah I read up and seen the s#'s are 2.0, I just wasn't sure what number. And I'm definitely cutting the 100ft down to a more practical length. I will be painting a vehicle in a booth so I will have a long hose for that and a short hose for smaller projects. I wonder if the spectrum liners work in the 3M setup? Didn't spectrum just copy them? The liners are cheap at HF but a sandwich bag is a great idea, especially if painting something besides automotive! Thanx for the reply, I'm sure il be back with plenty of questions as I get this rig up and running! Your the best brother!
I think the Spectrum liners are meant for the 1.0 version PPS. Compare the top center opening of the liner lid. The 1.0 is small in diameter, and the 2.0 is a larger opening. Also, the hose I'm using is a 5/8" diameter.
Will the Apollo fitings fit this machine and gun?
Yes, the Apollo fittings work really well with this spray gun. I use it with my custom cut Flexzilla garden hose.
@@JakeLesada Thanks!!
Hello Jake,
For Legacy version part: 3M Adapter #18 which lid system you use for The H/O Pressure Cup (Mini) is 3M 16121. What is the model number and what cheaper you mentioned maybe compatible lids you use.
I meant lid and liner system.
The 3M 16121 is the (Mini) size I use for Legacy version. But, lately I've been using the 3M Adapter S34 (shorter and meant for top feed turbine spray gun) with the 3M 2.0 PPS H.O. Cup. 26121 Midi. The liners are the 6oz., and I use those with the "sandwich bag mod". If you watch the "Sandwich bag mod" video it will explain. Sorry couldn't get you the part number for the liners right now, I have to jet. Thank you for watching.
Thanks@@JakeLesada
How does this unit compare to Apollo for the weekend warrior?
This unit is decent, and would work for the weekend warrior. But remember, painting skill is more important than any machine. Watch my video on beginner's classes, it explains more about making decisions on what is a better choice for you. Thank you so much for watching and commenting.
What length and diameter Flexzilla hose will fit this unit?
The length of the Flexzilla is 5/8x50ft., but I cut it into two different lengths - 15ft and about 30ft. Watch my video on painting stuff and explaining the Flexzilla hose mod - 50ft is too long in length and will have pressure drop at the spray gun air cap. You want more cap pressure to atomize paint, so don't go too long in length. When, I modded up the Flexzilla, I used the Apollo fittings and couplers, they work excellent. Also, watch my Oetiker clamp reusing video, those are the clamps I used to make the mod.
Are you still using apollo spray system ???
Of course man, I'm using my old M2000 and the M3000 for automotive stuff. I saw this Avanti at HB, and said no way. I bought and started testing it out.
It's a great way for everyone with a budget to experience the turbine spraying world. They can always upgrade sooner or later to Apollo. Got to run more on this topic later on...
Hey man what is the part number for the regular pps adapter you have on that gun? Not the 2.0 one…
That's the Legacy version part: 3M Adapter #18,
also known as: PN -16054.
The H/O Pressure Cup (Mini) is 3M 16121.
Any advantage to using a gravity feed gun with pps vs the bottom feed?
With turbine spraying, the cup is pressurized from the side air tube going into the cup. Once the cup is pressured, the air forces the fluid out similar to how gravity would flow the fluid out of the tip. The advantage to gravity feed would be the natural familiarity of spraying if someone is crossing over from compressor style paint spraying to turbine paint spraying. I have an older video on this channel that shows the difference, " compressor vs. turbine spraying".
Performancrewise with metallics etc not an issue then? just wondering because i just grabbed a avanti 5 stage on open box and have a fuji unit but wanted to try the avanti gun with the pps
Metallics are super easy with turbine spraying.
Going to try this for my primer gun on my fuji set up, was that 3M adapter for the 2.0 cup system or the original? Thanks!
In this video it is the 3M Legacy 1.0 version, and I'm using it with the longer 3M PPS #18 adapter meant for bottom feed. But, now I also use the 2.0 version with the S34 shorter adapter which normally is used for the top feed style turbine spray guns, it works. And, the liners I use are sandwich bags. I get 200 sandwich bags for under $1.50
@@JakeLesada thank you so much I'm gonna order that right now. Thanks for the turbine content nobody else on youtube going as in depth to it as you are.
You are very welcome. Thank you for watching and commenting.
Is this a bleeder gun or non-bleeder?
It is a non-bleeder turbine spray gun. The machine has 2 air bleed-off ports, one in the back and a small bypass inside.
im reall trying to decide between fuji Q5 or Apollo power 5 vs🤷🏾♂️
If you haven't watched yet, check out the video I made about choosing which machine or spray gun.
@@JakeLesada hey jake i watch you but i must of missed that video... looking at the power5 apollo or mini mite or q5
Would you recommend this setup to spray single stage urethane for automobiles?
I'm not going to make any recommendations yet because I haven't sprayed single stage with this unit. However, based on my initial testing of how it behaves with water and how it operates, it looks very promising. Also, consider what brand of single stage paint you are using and the solids content of the material and type of hardener or activator ingredients - not necessarily the temperature choice, but the actual ingredients of the isocyanate in the hardener or activator. Some single stage, no matter what and how you mix tends to peel or tighten up. Some single stage brand paints flow and level regardless of spray gun or machine. When I get some single stage paint I'll do some testing and find out.
@@JakeLesada I wish I knew that some ss paint levels regardless. I shot basf/rm/limco ss paint the other day and it gave me a 'four out of ten' orange peel. I think it was the gun setup; 1.0 tip with the needle turned in pretty good, and I think I should have used slow or extra slow reducer since I shot it outside in the Sun. Cut got it flat but the sand scratches are somewhat noticeable. I'll sand and reshoot sometime in the near future.
Yeah, I have sprayed PPG Delfleet Essentials Single Stage on the hottest day outside. The problem with outside spraying will be the air hose getting heated up from the sun shining onto it, or also the machine heating up and both those factors changing the spraying air temp to hot. The surface temp of the panel will be an issue too. If you can get an inexpensive temperature reader to temp the panel - you'll see surface and hose temp in degrees and from there, you'll get a better guess at what you can do to make a difficult paint day workout for the better. Try to shade the air hose somehow before you actually spray and then depending on how the paint is showing on the panel - adjust the spray gun closer to get more wet saturation - try and get paint flow before dry out to orange peel. And, you'll also have to move fast to keep the edge from kicking over to slick. The way to move fast is to adjust the material flow to rich and if possible pressure up to get more atomizing pressure at the air cap. Depending on which brand of spray gun you're using - adjust on a test spray wall so you can see what it looks like before going to the panel. Do the test in a short actual spraying pass and not just a static straight shot at the wall. You've got to move as if you are spraying, but only in a short pass. You'll see then what's actually happening with the paint. Yeah, good idea to have extra temp reducer on hand, but if not possible - always try to get full wet saturation by moving closer or fluid up and go richer. If you are seeing sand scratches, remember paint has windows of opportunity for certain task. Too soon and it's a mess, too late and you have to abrade for mechanical paint grab. And, sometimes you just have to wait - do something else to let the paint cure over to off gas and let it dry out to the next window of opportunity.
@@JakeLesada With my machine, I did your test with the water and found that my 1.5 needle/tip with a few turns out lays the glossy finish you talked about; I just have to move the gun a bit faster. Would I run into troubles 'chemically' by shooting my ss 2k paint "over-thinned" beyond what the manufacturer recommends (solvent pop, delamination, haziness, adhesion, etc.)? For my 4:1:1 ratio I was thinking maybe 4 to 1.5 or 4 to 2 to get the viscosity the gun might like better.
Yeah, it's not wise to over thin the material. If the mix allows a 4:1:1 ratio, that is more than sufficient to give you flow. A 1.5 needle and tip can flow single stage easily and water very easily. If you are able to gloss out the water great, try leaning your mix to have the water spray dry and then in small increments fluid out to gloss and figure out the pace can you move comfortably without rushing to get gloss. I count about 3-4 seconds on a panel pass as good, 5-6 seconds is slow. Think - "mixture, distance and speed". When the mix is dry you have to move slow to get gloss. When the mix is wet or over wet you have to move fast to avoid runs. The balancing act is achieving your speed to wet gloss and no runs. Part of that equation is the air psi and the amount of cfm your machine can or can't give you. But, if you can achieve glossy water you can achieve glossy paint. The larger the needle and tip size the more air psi or cfm it will crave. When you go smaller in needle and tip size you can use less air - but the question will be - can this small size push the molecule size of what you are spraying. If it's too small a needle and tip is gets choked up and super craves air to push it thru and atomize - this will give you orange peel and overspray. And, as always since you asked about your custom mix ratio - do it, experiment and see if it works. Sometimes going out of spec does work, just remember you'll have more solvent to flash off (dry, off gas) between coats. Solvent pop happens when you bury the coat with another coat too soon and the paint slicks over to dry. Or, it happens if you add more than the recommended coats in too fast a total time batch. Example, at the collision center we sprayed Sherwin Williams fast high solids clear and everything was laying out show style - then we said let's add another coat cause it's going so well - the panel didn't like that and it horribly solvent pop. Luckily it was on that one panel cause we stopped the process with that one panel. If your spray gun can gloss water - your spray gun can gloss paint. Speed is only relative to how fast you want to move or how fast you HAVE to move when spraying. You'll get it, do some testing and prove your test works.
Hi,what's the difference between stage 3 and stage 5
The difference between a stage 3 and stage 5 turbine is the amount of internal fans built into the turbine. The more fans stacked into the turbine will be a higher stage fan unit. I have sprayed with a very early version turbine unit and it had no power to atomize water when I sprayed. Water spraying practice is how I check to see if I can spray paint with a machine. If I can atomize and spray water, and make it glossy, I know I can spray auto paint with the machine. Without first spray testing the Avaniti, I felt the air pressure and flow amount at the store, and from my spraying experience I knew it would work for my spraying needs. Avanti does have a 3 stage, but I have not tested or tried that unit. Thank you for watching and commenting.
You mentioned the 0.8 needle for base coat and/or the 1.3 for base and clear. I actually used the 3 stage Avanti similar to this one to paint a portion of my son's Honda Pilot. I didn't take any notes on which needles I used but purchased both from HF. So I have all 3. .8, 1.3 and 1.8. Will be completing the rest of the Pilot soon. What are your needle recommendations with this gun for primer, base and clear? 1.8 for the 2K primer? Or the 1.3 also. I will actually be testing on a 96 Nissan truck that is badly in need of a paint job.
I still have to order a 0.8mm for base coats. The 0.8mm has always been the common size for base coat with turbine spraying. HB has the 1.3mm good for clear coats or sealer primers and some primers with less solids. The 1.3mm will work for base coats but you have to move fast - the psi with this machine is good. The 1.8mm should work for 2k primers easily - but it depends on how thin or thick the 2k flows, just be careful you don't over saturate or flood out the lay down and give it time to flash properly. If you can work with the 1.3mm and get decent results with 2k primers great, go with that - I prefer a straight panel with excellent body work and less relying on high build primers to get the panel straight. Primers and all products sprayed need to be at a minimum and a maximum of dry film mils thickness. Spray too thin and you'll have no adhesion grab or coverage - too thick and it could crack. If you try to bury with high build - understand how much shrinkage your material dries down. Sometimes it looks good, but after it shrinks the sand scratches will come back and surprise you. Common recipe: Primers - 1.3mm to 1.8mm, Base coats - 0.8mm, (1.3mm will work but has heavy wet if you move slow), Clear Coat - 1.3mm works excellent. Also note, depending on the clear coat brand or type you use, sometimes that clear coat will flow like glass or peel like an orange. Overall clear coats tend to flow more before locking in the dry. Fast dry or quick clears - depending on the solids in the mix - tend to orange peel more like factory oem texture. The longer it takes to dry - the more time clear coat will flow. So, you are either battling dust or bugs in diy or cut n buff when it speed dries with texture. Good luck with the 96 Nissan Truck.
@@JakeLesada Thanks for the info and reply. One more question. I think I'm gonna try the 3M PPS H/O Pressure Cup setup. Are you using the 13.5 ounce cup or the 28 ounce cup?
I think it's the 13.5 ounce, or however many ounces my H.O. cup is. It's more of a medium H.O. size. I know it's not the 28oz. Just did a spray out with Avanti 5 stage and base coat with 2:1 + 10% reducer clear coat. It worked out decent I'll be posting that soon. I used the 1.3mm needle and tip for both the base coat and the clear coat. And, I choked down the air fan adjustment to halfway with a .75 fluid mix out.
Hi Jake what is the price of that stage 5 avanti machine? Do they deliver in canada? And can you do a complete car with that ? Thank
It's priced as of today on Harbor Freight's website at $599.00 US. I don't know if they deliver to Canada, the item is an in store purchase only item. Another, person living in Florida wanted it shipped, but they had to drive to the nearest Harbor Freight to purchase it. I would be able to paint a whole car with it, no problem. Thank you for watching and commenting. Let us know if you are able to get one in Canada.
Yo I have tuns of questions , for u I actually live in fond du lac Wisconsin
Cool, hit me up with the questions. I'll tell you what I know.
Could I stop over by u if you have a shop
@@392ScattyI have a private studio, no visitors. What questions you got?
@@JakeLesada to much to type I have thousands of questions it’s all good I respectfully understand
Do you think this system would be suitable to paint a boat with polyurethane marine paint?
As a note*, I have not sprayed marine paint with this 5 stage. However, most marine paints have a viscosity that I think this Avanti 5 stage could handle, and this 5 stage has plenty of atomizing power. In the past, I've sprayed Awlgrip 545 epoxy primer and I know how that stuff flows and sprays, this Avanti 5 stage could spray it no problem. Epoxy sprayable fairing compound would need the larger needle and tip and would need the 5-25% reducer to get better flow. Above the waterline top coats should be easy too. All paint applications are based on wet mils or dry mils thickness and viscosity flow rates. I think this 5 stage could handle marine paint, it's got wild psi and cfm power to atomize.
@@JakeLesada I’m planning on using Total Boat wet edge one part Topside paint. It is a polyurethane paint. Hopefully it works out. Thanks for the info and the videos.
I just read up on the TDS sheet of Total Boat Topside Paint and it looks like an easy to apply coating. They're allowing for reducers and mils paint dry thickness is within a normal thickness. Nothing too thick and not too thin with 2-3 coats application. Should work out no problem. Thank you for watching and commenting.
@@JakeLesada one more question- have you had any issues with it overheating? Several of the Harbor Freight reviews state that the 5 stage was overheating. There are much better reviews on the 3 stage. 🤷🏻
I haven't had any issues with my machine overheating. The hot temps in the booth have been in the 90's and no issues.
Where do you buy your automotive paint from?
I shop at several places. In town I shop at Automotive Supply, Ander's Auto and Finish Master. Online I shop at Autobody Toolmart, Tamco, and Speedokote.
Cant adjust fan width
I responded with a more in-depth explanation in my Avanti turbine spray gun video. You can adjust but it's somewhat limited.