Great video. Gave me more understanding of how our fridge works. Great tips too.
Great tutorial and run through. I'll keep the compressor, but you have won me over with the 3 Way. Cheers.
Thanks mate....a 'no nonsense' simple explanation of how the 3ways work 👍
I already knew everything you mentioned, by you clarified in better detail eg: fridge needs to be level, but now I know there's no need for +/- spit thickness :)
I was planning on 'correcting' you re: running the fridge(s) on 12v, but you even cut in and clarified that point.....shout yourself an extra cordial.
Well done 👍👍
Thanks mate very informative, haven’t really had one but getting new van , we have kids so might be fun 😬
Vera,verf interesting ,the way you explain the angle .Sometimes we have to be more aware of quantities of Things! It helpt a lot.! For me anyways.Very usefull video.grtz
Non bull shit, straight to the point. Great information.
I wonder if someone has ever added a small 12v compressor system into a 3-way fridge. Like a booster system So you can gain quick cooling while only 1-2 amps per hour and then turn over to the gas system one it's cooled in 30 minutes instead of 4 hours and saves pulling 17a on the normal 3 ways 12v. It
would help a super hot day when kids are opening the fridge a lot.
Over a good number of years I have owned sailing boats a motor boat a barge, caravans, and motor homes. All with varying levels of cool boxes or fridges. I would have classed myself as an experienced user. Well as they say “every day is a school day”. I found your blog informative and interesting and to keep my interest alive for 35 minutes it must have been good. Thank you
Ha. Cheers Mike, now thats a comment ive not heard before. Thanks mate, appreciate the kind words
We have just purchased our first caravan. It's a Jayco Eagle Outback. Not a new one, but new enough for us. It has a 3 way fridge, and I have been told pretty much everywhere that they are difficult to use properly. You have eased my concerns, and I'm sure I'll be able to educate the wife on how to use it for better efficiency. IE: Stop opening the bloody door all the time! lol.
Nothing wrong with the 3 way guys, kids are generally the biggest challenge for a 3 way by continually opening that damn door 😄
Well explained 😊
Great Vid! we have an awning that we put over the outside wall where the fridge is, it makes a difference but only just!!! I do like the fans Thanks
Fantastic so well explained thank you also nice to here it explained by a great bloke that's no afraid to say the word shit' good on ya from the uk
Great video. Many thanks.
I have three way dometic came with the van. I like the silence but so slow to cool and gives up when hot.
My question is my fridge compartment condenser never gets icy. Freezer does get icy. It’s two door.
Is that a fault in your experience??
Many thanks.
Ps I leave it on 240 all the time in my shed so still doesn’t get icy.
Icing freezer is typical. Before it gets too bad do a quick de-ice. Last thing in the day quickly take everything out of the freezer, put a towel in there, smash it with a hair dryer, mop up as much water as possible and load it back up and leave it closed to recover. Should only 5 or so minutes and it will recover relatively quickly, especially if you do do it just before bed.
Enjoyed your video. I have ordered a new vehicle and a new caravan with a 3 way fridge. I am wondering how you wire your fridge to the car. Considering the current, do you wire it through a 12 pin plug, or an Anderson plug? I think the new fridge will be an automatic changeover between battery and gas. So if I stop for lunch and it automatically switches to gas, that assumes that the gas is on. Should I drive with the gas on, or turn it on when I stop for lunch?
Hey John. I have a compressor fridge now (recent new van) but Im still a fan of the 3 way. The Achilles heel of the 3 way (heat) is manageable, not so much with the compressor (sun, or lack of it). I used just the 12 pin plug for my 3 way for many years, but swapped over to an Anderson in the current car only because we had a new van with a more sophisticated energy system on order with DCDC charging etc and it was more convenient to use that Anderson to run the 3 way for the short time before it was sold. I never had any issues with the 12 pin. The larger pins are rated at 35A and the fridge will draw around 18A'ish, just keep the plugs clean and the pins snug (spread) to avoid poor connections resulting in overheating in the plug and never use a liquid lube in the plug like WD40 etc. Never travel with the gas turned on, it's not safe and Ill stand corrected but I think the gas regs actually forbid it. Exciting times are ahead for you, enjoy the new caravan. Safe travels.
Mate.. just install two things that make it perfect, vent fans on the top vent and a internal fan to circulate cold air. And a fridge drain hose that exists outside the van. No dramas where ever you are. Simple. 🍻
You are incredible mate, thank you.
Would you do a clip on leveling a van.
I'm new to this van towing, it sort of scares me.
I've got a Sea Breeze Viscount 1980 14 foot, which I am getting serviced an checked over, so I have a bench mark.
Reversing is my bad point.
We recently sold our latest van and we're the process of searching for a replacement caravan. Reversing certainly causes widespread anxiety. Mybest tip is treat every time as if youre alone and have all the time in the world, stop, get out of the car, and have look as often as makes you comfortable. There no rush ... EVER
Take a spirit level with you and put it on the draw bar. Left right can be levelled with a ramp, while still hitched. The level is placed left right across the draw bar. The ramp is placed before or after the wheel depending on the slope of the ground. Don't forget to chock the wheel once it's level. You don't want the van to roll down the ramp into your bumper. Fore aft is levelled with the jockey wheel after you have unhitched the car. Buy ramps and chocks before you go away. I use plastic ones and they are great.
Lower the stabilisers after it is level. Do NOT use them to jack up the van. They are designed to stop the van wobbling around once you are set up.
I have just bought a van and it has an absorption fridge. I have three children that do exactly what you just said. Head in the fridge and looking for something to eat, the wife is the worst. I am going to have to drum into their heads the importance of keeping the fridge closed.
Without this video I would be thinking what's wrong with the fridge. I don't have a car fridge but do have a domectic esky that I now will take.
I appreciate you passing on your knowledge and the time and effort you took to make this video. 👍
Thank you.
I quick question. When towing, you pull up for lunch, would it be best to turn on the gas on and pull out the power from the car so the fridge uses the gas? or not worry because it's only one hour?
Thanks for the kind words, Im glad you were able to take something from the video. I have a Voltage Sensitive Relay (VSR) in the car's fridge pwr feed circuit, the VSR connects the fridge circuit when it itself senses a different 12v power input. Only when the VSR is powered it closes the fridge power circuit. Some people connect the VSR to the parking lights, so turning the parking lights on and off connects and disconnects the fridge pwr. That idea is because its advisable to have your car lights on when your towing/driving. Most modern cars will also alarm if you leave the lights on, so kinda a built-in failsafe. My VSR is connected to an ingnition sourse so my fridge pwr is on and off with the ignition key. A VSR is simple and cheap, under $50. I dont bother with gas for an hour or so lunch stop, but longer or if its hot Ill put it on gas. Hope that makes sense
great vid m8.. do you have one on trouble shooting the dometic fridge. Mine isn't working and I've done alot of voltage testing (120 and dc12), checked fuses etc. and no luck. Thanks... Ross
Hey Ross. Does it operate on gas?? If yr getting 240 and 12v to the fridge, i would start with resistance testing the heating elements
@@Vagare Thanks for replying Vagare ! It's 3 way, but I don't get a spark or gas. I haven't checked the heating elements yet. I tend to think it's the board because "nothing" works. Not even the interior light, but the 'au', 'gas', mode' lights work though. It sat for 2 years because of covid and we live in Western Canada, so the actual camping time is limited..lol. I've watched a lot of videos on the rv fridge and yours is probably the most informative on the subject you're delivering... and funny. I tend to slip the odd 'cus' word out too when I'm talking... hehehe ( more so lately with this fridge :)) thanks m8
@@rossjuly55 its hard to know once you eliminate the usual suspects. We've only had the manual control 3 ways which are reasonably simple to narrow down
Hi Again.
What about in transit can you use the vans' 12 volts via a solar panel. I have 225 amp battery setup?
Hey Arthur, always run the fridge from the car battery in transit, because the alternator will keep the battery charged. Solar is a fluctuating current dependant on conditions, you would need at least 400w of solar and good conditions to begin to keep up with a 3 way fridge, and you would still run the fridge from a battery and charge the battery via the solar (and importantly a solar regulator)
I have ran the fridge out of level for brief periods when parked up. Is that long enough the create the damage you’ve spoken off
Hey Matt, the fridge would have to be well outside the limits repeatedly for long periods. Brief periods say stopping for lunch wont cause you any issues
👍
We had kerosene fridges when I was a kid.
Hey Gary, i picked up an old kero fridge many many years but never put it into service
What a load of BS
Ha, bit harsh. Any specific bit Bill, or generally just all 36min & 22sec of it. (You forgot to give it the thumbs down). Thanks for watching the entire vid, and for the polite constructive support 💖
really good information. I love the candid talk about this fridge as well!