I paint the area under the layout where the turnout is installed with latex paint and then use 3M heavy duty doubled sided tape to attach the Tortoise. No screws. This holds very tight and provides a buffer between the plywood and the machine that greatly reduces the sound the Tortoise can radiate through the layout. Also, since most layouts cannot be tilted on their side, it eliminates the need to crawl around under the layout trying to drive in mounting screws. This method is tried and proven and holds up over time.
That is the first time I have paid any attention to tortoise switches. They look a bit large and cumbersome but obviously do a good job. I must look for your Arduino control of points.
A few more tips: (1) the Tortoise is incredibly quiet - until you mount it to a huge plywood sounding board! To reduce the noise, I cut a 2x2 inch piece of thin foam saved from packing material and place it between the Tortoise and the plywood. (2) If your layout is too large to conveniently flip over, you can (a) try to install from beneath the layout (HARD), (b) use the separately available drilling template and drill holes from above (still hard), or (c) drill holes and mount your Tortoises BEFORE you lay track: Do not attach your sub-roadbed (plywood) to the bench work, install your roadbed, and locate your turnouts pretty carefully, and drill the holes for the Tortoise springs. Then flip the sub-roadbed over and mount the Tortoises. The Tortoise spring gives you a little tolerance, so it doesn't have to be perfect. Once the machines are mounted, flip the sub-roadbed right side up and attach it to the bench work. Attach a piece of blue painters tape to the protruding springs so no one accidentally pokes a hole in their hand! Now you can lay the turnouts in place, and threading the spring wire through the throw-bar is child's play. (Don't cut the spring until all track has been laid.) (3) I use a #4 washer between the screw and the Tortoise: this stops the screws from chewing into the plastic body of the Tortoise. (4) Finally, save yourself the trouble of soldering underneath the layout: buy Tortoise edge connectors (about $3 each) and solder your wires to the edge connector (I use eight connector CAT-5 wire), then just slip the connector onto the Tortoise.
Those wire throw rods are pretty hard wire and might eventually damage your rail cutters - not a big deal if you're only cutting a few. But if you have a lot to install, it's better to use a cutting disk on a Dremell (you may end up buying a 2nd rail cutter that you ONLY use for cutting track). It all depends on how big your layout is.
A good explanation. I’ve been using Peco switch machines and have a terrible time getting them mounted and aligned properly. As well they seem to require a high spike in power to get them started. So much so that maybe a capacitor in the circuit is required. I could try Tortoise but I’ve hesitated because they are so much more expensive than all others and if I need a lot of them it’s cost prohibitive.
Great episode. I didn't use tortoise on my layout but rather simple servos, but it is always nice to have backup ideas when something doesn't work or if something isn't available. Also, that turnout looks like it has a bent point. Or is it just my eyes.
Thanks for another info-fest, Jimmy. When you mention 'slower than snap switches', do you know of any snap-type switch that may move a rod thru 90 degrees, starting at 12 o'clock and moving 45 degrees in each direction....and quite quickly, too. Nothing too taxing for you on a Monday 😉. Keep up the great work with the vids👏👏
Standing the layout on its end is cheating when installing the Tortoise Switch Machine. You need to show how to do it while underneath the layout reaching above your head while dropping the screws and having the wood chips from drilling falling into your eyes. 🤣 I have to say that turnout controls were nowhere near the top of the list when I was building the benchwork or track laying. Nice job there Jimmy.
What dummy would be under the layout drilling the clearance holes?? They go in from the top unless you are one of the dummer ones that forgot to pre-cut the spaces.
@@davidcurtis5398 That dummy would be me since when I was planning the layout I didn't plan for switch machines or even have them at the time. Not all of us are smart as you and have everything planned out in advance.
And those of us using Kato Unitrack switches just have a laugh at the hard work involved in using other brands of switches. Life would be boring if everyone did the same thing.
Good question! Tortoises have been around awhile and are designed for model railroading. While servos are cheaper, a tortoise is going to be easier to install for those with less experience.
I used a multi tool to make a slot in place of the hole. The slot doesn't show, is more efficient, and gives more clearance. I have seen many broken machines from manually moving them. The better way to test them is to use a 9 volt battery and use a wire from the + side and one from the - side. A one way will urn the motor and thee other way will turn it back. No forcing the motor and a broken motor. If you insist on doing it manually, very slowly is the right way to test the motor. The wire will kill most rail cutters as the cutter is made to cut rail which is soft and the wire that the motor companies use is hardened. It will put a gouge into the cutter. I have ruined several cutters that way...
Can "Tortoise by Circuton" motors be adapted in any way for non-powered KATO switches - using HO scales if that makes any difference? Not a big fan of powered switches mostly because of wiring issues but also the large and clunky looking KATO switch controllers that are made to snap onto a KATO controller and apparently not look unobtrusive....NOT!
@@davidcurtis5398 - only opened bottom of one for other reasons and never noticed if it would work. The little switch is on the top side so maybe could be adapted....
I paint the area under the layout where the turnout is installed with latex paint and then use 3M heavy duty doubled sided tape to attach the Tortoise. No screws. This holds very tight and provides a buffer between the plywood and the machine that greatly reduces the sound the Tortoise can radiate through the layout. Also, since most layouts cannot be tilted on their side, it eliminates the need to crawl around under the layout trying to drive in mounting screws. This method is tried and proven and holds up over time.
That is the first time I have paid any attention to tortoise switches. They look a bit large and cumbersome but obviously do a good job. I must look for your Arduino control of points.
A few more tips: (1) the Tortoise is incredibly quiet - until you mount it to a huge plywood sounding board! To reduce the noise, I cut a 2x2 inch piece of thin foam saved from packing material and place it between the Tortoise and the plywood. (2) If your layout is too large to conveniently flip over, you can (a) try to install from beneath the layout (HARD), (b) use the separately available drilling template and drill holes from above (still hard), or (c) drill holes and mount your Tortoises BEFORE you lay track: Do not attach your sub-roadbed (plywood) to the bench work, install your roadbed, and locate your turnouts pretty carefully, and drill the holes for the Tortoise springs. Then flip the sub-roadbed over and mount the Tortoises. The Tortoise spring gives you a little tolerance, so it doesn't have to be perfect. Once the machines are mounted, flip the sub-roadbed right side up and attach it to the bench work. Attach a piece of blue painters tape to the protruding springs so no one accidentally pokes a hole in their hand! Now you can lay the turnouts in place, and threading the spring wire through the throw-bar is child's play. (Don't cut the spring until all track has been laid.) (3) I use a #4 washer between the screw and the Tortoise: this stops the screws from chewing into the plastic body of the Tortoise. (4) Finally, save yourself the trouble of soldering underneath the layout: buy Tortoise edge connectors (about $3 each) and solder your wires to the edge connector (I use eight connector CAT-5 wire), then just slip the connector onto the Tortoise.
Those wire throw rods are pretty hard wire and might eventually damage your rail cutters - not a big deal if you're only cutting a few. But if you have a lot to install, it's better to use a cutting disk on a Dremell (you may end up buying a 2nd rail cutter that you ONLY use for cutting track). It all depends on how big your layout is.
Thanks!
That is so nice. Thank you!
A good explanation. I’ve been using Peco switch machines and have a terrible time getting them mounted and aligned properly. As well they seem to require a high spike in power to get them started. So much so that maybe a capacitor in the circuit is required. I could try Tortoise but I’ve hesitated because they are so much more expensive than all others and if I need a lot of them it’s cost prohibitive.
Great episode. I didn't use tortoise on my layout but rather simple servos, but it is always nice to have backup ideas when something doesn't work or if something isn't available. Also, that turnout looks like it has a bent point. Or is it just my eyes.
I think it’s the weird angle and the taper of the point.
Thanks for another info-fest, Jimmy. When you mention 'slower than snap switches', do you know of any snap-type switch that may move a rod thru 90 degrees, starting at 12 o'clock and moving 45 degrees in each direction....and quite quickly, too. Nothing too taxing for you on a Monday 😉. Keep up the great work with the vids👏👏
Standing the layout on its end is cheating when installing the Tortoise Switch Machine. You need to show how to do it while underneath the layout reaching above your head while dropping the screws and having the wood chips from drilling falling into your eyes. 🤣 I have to say that turnout controls were nowhere near the top of the list when I was building the benchwork or track laying. Nice job there Jimmy.
Hahaha!
What dummy would be under the layout drilling the clearance holes?? They go in from the top unless you are one of the dummer ones that forgot to pre-cut the spaces.
@@davidcurtis5398 That dummy would be me since when I was planning the layout I didn't plan for switch machines or even have them at the time. Not all of us are smart as you and have everything planned out in advance.
And those of us using Kato Unitrack switches just have a laugh at the hard work involved in using other brands of switches. Life would be boring if everyone did the same thing.
Unless you use the non-powered switches because the appearance of the large and clunky KATO switch controls. 😃
Is there a reason you choose to use a Tortise rather than a servo for this application? Thanks for this and all the informative videos.
Good question! Tortoises have been around awhile and are designed for model railroading. While servos are cheaper, a tortoise is going to be easier to install for those with less experience.
@@DIYDigitalRailroad Makes sense, thanks for getting back to me.
I used a multi tool to make a slot in place of the hole. The slot doesn't show, is more efficient, and gives more clearance. I have seen many broken machines from manually moving them. The better way to test them is to use a 9 volt battery and use a wire from the + side and one from the - side. A one way will urn the motor and thee other way will turn it back. No forcing the motor and a broken motor. If you insist on doing it manually, very slowly is the right way to test the motor. The wire will kill most rail cutters as the cutter is made to cut rail which is soft and the wire that the motor companies use is hardened. It will put a gouge into the cutter. I have ruined several cutters that way...
Would Tortoise switches work on a HO layout built on hollow core doors with 1” foam on top? Or too thick?
How do you connect the tortoise machine to an Arduino LCC system? Could this be accomplished by installing a decoder on each turnout?
Can this be used for O gauge as well?
Thanks for the video! Could you add a link to the referenced "control with an Arduino" video?
Here you go! th-cam.com/video/wMRUYKuBM7I/w-d-xo.html
Excellent thank you
😊
One thing I do is replace the wire with heavier piano wire.
Can "Tortoise by Circuton" motors be adapted in any way for non-powered KATO switches - using HO scales if that makes any difference? Not a big fan of powered switches mostly because of wiring issues but also the large and clunky looking KATO switch controllers that are made to snap onto a KATO controller and apparently not look unobtrusive....NOT!
Follow the directions and if the Kato switches ( I have never looked ) don't have a hole in the throw bar, drill one...
@@davidcurtis5398 - only opened bottom of one for other reasons and never noticed if it would work. The little switch is on the top side so maybe could be adapted....
Hello
Piano wire and rail cutter....If you can afford to buy new cutters, go ahead.
No
A Suggestion, get an extension for your bits so you don't mess up the Tortoise machine, or any other electronics or electric equipment.