This guy speaks broken English but explained it 100x better than others. So, I took my pen and paper to watch the video and take notes when I realized he's got this "long story short" note: Long story short: 1. 0AWG from alternator + to battery + 2. 0AWG from battery - to chassis 3. 0AWG from engine to chassis 4. 0AWG or few smaller ones from alternator chassis to battery -
The very first video I see of yours comrade and you make video very well, informative, and even in the description. All the information is there and I will perform big 4 on my sisters car with all your help just to repair her alternator. She is not a basshead. And I will do mine soon. I'm a newb to electrical but it is my newly found love and just learning about big 4 and how much sense it makes when dealing with AC current. Electricity wants to travel at the speed of light! It makes sense to help out our alternator because she is the second hardest working part in your car. Subscribed.
Hi can i use the little bolts/screws seen at the back of the alternator rear casing? If i removed the screw and attached a new Ground wire from the bolt and connect it to the battery negative terminal? Im curious to know if I can use those. Any tips are appreciated. Thanks.
Great video..tanx bro How do you think about upgrading the power and ground wire of the battery to the fusebox? And ground fusebox to chassis or bodywork? I see also vids showing a extra powerwire from +alternator to +fusebox (Fusebox in engine bay) Not interior fusebox...but maybe its also possible to upgrade thes wires
Thanks man, that actually helps a lot....question: I noticed a small little cable grounded to the frame of my truck by the front right wheel well, and I figured that was the vehicles "frame ground" and everything reverts back to that...is that usually true? It looks as if it follows the path to the alternator but upon further review it looks as if it goes down under the engine and grounds at the engine block with the same ground that connects the engine to the battery...So what I did was I ran a 0 gauge from that frame ground to the negative on the battery. Then I ran the ground from the top mounting bolt on the alternator to the negative battery as well. Now, I was under the impression that the top alt mount bolt could also be used for engine ground, but i couldn't get it in between the actual alt and the engine cause it was too tight...so i think I'm going to run another one from the engine block, to the battery or to the frame as well, or do you think the chassis is ok too? Or should I add one to the frame, the battery, AND the chassis just to be safe? Also, with the alt positive....mine runs to the fuse box to a 140 amp fuse then a wire goes from the fuse box to the battery. I thought maybe i was ruining something by bypassing the fuse box, so I ran some wire to the fuse box but I couldn't get 0 gauge in there, it's way too small, so I used 4 gauge to the fuse box, and from the fuse box to the battery, but then i realized i was grounding with 0, so i just went ahead and ran 0 from the alt directly to the battery as well. Is that ok, u think? And lastly, those little ass screws on the back of the alternator are so hard to get to...i've had the darndest time trying to ground the alt....it seems like the part you were talking about to ground the alt, is a different type of metal, and most likely better for grounding....you think i should suck it up and add a few 4 gauge grounds to that part of the alt to the frame, chassis, or battery? Or you think it's fine with the ground at the mounting bolt? Sorry so long!
Why worry about the engine block ground when you are grounding the alternator case, which is secured to the engine via metallic supports, to the negative battery terminal which is already connected to the chassis? This seems to be a duplication of effort.
I'm about to upgrade to big4, but wasn't certain what the fouth is. First for me is the positive from the alternator positive to the battery positive, the second is from the alternator's negative to the chassis, the third is from the battery's negative to the chassis and the fourth... well it's from the engine to the chassis. Forgot all about it.
I have q 1990 lincon mark 7.. I want to do the upgrade but I wonder if I also should upgrade the power wire that goes for batt pos to starter solenoid?
Ok so now that i understand i need to do that 4th ground from the back of the alternator, can you help me figure this out.... The back of the 105amp alternator on my 02' GMC 2500hd truck is plasic , sort of like a cap, for whatever reason that's just how there made so how would you recommend grounding for that neg ground? The positive is easy as there is a stud for grounding but seeing how that back end of alternator is plastic where and how can I run the neg ground??? Please reply, Thank you. Friday, 5-3-19
Locate the bolt that is used to connect the alternator to the engine, set belt loose and remove the bolt. Use BIG ringterminal and connect the bolt back in. Threads should be long enough for you to secure the alternator correctly. Tighten the belt. The whole alternator chassis is grounded through bolts to the engine, so if you cannot locate or put big ringterminal to the bolt, then just use nearest big bolt on the engine.
So in the video and description it says alternator negative to battery is the 4th, BUT, in your summary at the end of the video you say alternator negative to chassis of the car. Just so there's no confusion and a definite answer, which one of these two is correct?
thees is very very good infor ma shun.. should i also run additional negative wire from battery to back of alternator that is negative side of bridge rectafier ?
very informative video.. how about ANL fuses? I see a lot of videos of people adding fuse from ALT to Battery? I'm going to big3 my ford explorer and was wondering what size ANL fuse I should use?
Ok the only thing I’m worried is alt is far from battery . And I was told to keep ground cables as short as possible , would it affect anything if I run a long ground cable? From neg batt to alt.
Alternator grounds itself to engine, engine to chassis. If you ground alternators frame into battery straight or into chassis, you help the flow of electricity
Kennedy Wong if your idea is to get more from your alternator you ground your alternator to the battery, not on chassis. Put 0awg under the bolt that alternator is connected to the engine, or as near as possible. Its not ment to be easy to fit 0awg near alternator, but it can be done.
I'm confused, if you ground the engine properly, and the alternator is bolted to the engine, isn't that good enough and the same as running another wire from the alternator to the engine?
In car audio there is no such thing as enough :) But yeah, you are right, good grounding is enough, no need to overkill if you are using stock alternator
thanks! i have been working on upgrading my studio equipment, but in my experience all the cheap ones are crap and i cannot afford on ones i want to buy. Maybe someday i have good equipment on my studio :)
Dude good studio equipment is very expensive & takes time to acquire. Most people tries for a better camera before ring lights & soft lights. Focus on the information provided. Besides the video is 3 years old.
Pretty useless actually. It's important to ground the engine since that's where the alternator gets its ground from, but in the big 3 you already upgrade the alt ground Adding a 2nd ground wont do any good, electricity naturally takes the path of least resistance
@@Sawalex19 Either would work it's just that he did both ways, so whichever ground had the least resistance would be the ground used by the alternator all the time, so the other ground would just be un-used. Though if you run the alt ground through the engine to chassis that creates some resistance, same with running from alt ground to battery terminal, to chassis or body. Really the best way would be alt ground to chassis and battery negative to chassis, separately
@@Sawalex19 Though its not that big a deal, but that would just be the best way. Because depending on your car its possible that the engine or the battery could have a high enough resistance to actually make a difference, this way there's little to no chance of having a bad ground
![ไลฟ์สุ่ม iPhone 295 บาท... โกงมั้ย?[ โกงมั้ยครับ ep.97 ] | DOM](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/gdstHEE4UUE/mqdefault.jpg)
This guy speaks broken English but explained it 100x better than others. So, I took my pen and paper to watch the video and take notes when I realized he's got this "long story short" note: Long story short:
1. 0AWG from alternator + to battery +
2. 0AWG from battery - to chassis
3. 0AWG from engine to chassis
4. 0AWG or few smaller ones from alternator chassis to battery -
This dude explained this big 4 very well..
Jorge Toloza thank you!! 😎👍
Wet
Same for me, lernt more in 5 minutes than any other video. Keep it up. 10/10
The very first video I see of yours comrade and you make video very well, informative, and even in the description. All the information is there and I will perform big 4 on my sisters car with all your help just to repair her alternator. She is not a basshead. And I will do mine soon.
I'm a newb to electrical but it is my newly found love and just learning about big 4 and how much sense it makes when dealing with AC current. Electricity wants to travel at the speed of light! It makes sense to help out our alternator because she is the second hardest working part in your car.
Subscribed.
Awesome! Thanks!
Thank you for the explanation of the Big 4. Now I have the confidence to tackle this job over the weekend.
Good job this is my last step to complete the Big 4. Thank you
Thank you! I have such a better understanding now.
Hi can i use the little bolts/screws seen at the back of the alternator rear casing? If i removed the screw and attached a new Ground wire from the bolt and connect it to the battery negative terminal? Im curious to know if I can use those. Any tips are appreciated. Thanks.
Very VERY GOOD VIDEO! I appreciate you breaking the Big 4 Upgrade down. Had it done recently and am pleased with the results
You are 100% right . I also put much better brass truck battery cable ends on . Use a paste never seaze with copper. Keeps oxegen out .
Great video. Liked that you welcome negative comments/ dislikes (although there should be none). Very informative!
We all have our opinnions. 😃
Thanks for your kind words!
Great video..tanx bro
How do you think about upgrading the power and ground wire of the battery to the fusebox?
And ground fusebox to chassis or bodywork?
I see also vids showing a extra powerwire from +alternator to +fusebox
(Fusebox in engine bay)
Not interior fusebox...but maybe its also possible to upgrade thes wires
I run a big 4 with 3 gage in all my cars . Mandatory if you drive a Buick and very cheap but solder those ends.
Had a 84 lesaber 2dr battery kept dying till I grounded it right
very good explanation, and your english is good to understand for those who have not English as their mother language
Thanks man, that actually helps a lot....question: I noticed a small little cable grounded to the frame of my truck by the front right wheel well, and I figured that was the vehicles "frame ground" and everything reverts back to that...is that usually true? It looks as if it follows the path to the alternator but upon further review it looks as if it goes down under the engine and grounds at the engine block with the same ground that connects the engine to the battery...So what I did was I ran a 0 gauge from that frame ground to the negative on the battery. Then I ran the ground from the top mounting bolt on the alternator to the negative battery as well. Now, I was under the impression that the top alt mount bolt could also be used for engine ground, but i couldn't get it in between the actual alt and the engine cause it was too tight...so i think I'm going to run another one from the engine block, to the battery or to the frame as well, or do you think the chassis is ok too? Or should I add one to the frame, the battery, AND the chassis just to be safe? Also, with the alt positive....mine runs to the fuse box to a 140 amp fuse then a wire goes from the fuse box to the battery. I thought maybe i was ruining something by bypassing the fuse box, so I ran some wire to the fuse box but I couldn't get 0 gauge in there, it's way too small, so I used 4 gauge to the fuse box, and from the fuse box to the battery, but then i realized i was grounding with 0, so i just went ahead and ran 0 from the alt directly to the battery as well. Is that ok, u think? And lastly, those little ass screws on the back of the alternator are so hard to get to...i've had the darndest time trying to ground the alt....it seems like the part you were talking about to ground the alt, is a different type of metal, and most likely better for grounding....you think i should suck it up and add a few 4 gauge grounds to that part of the alt to the frame, chassis, or battery? Or you think it's fine with the ground at the mounting bolt? Sorry so long!
Great quick explanation- thank you!!
Easier to understand than all the other slang videos on YT
Ciao grazie per il tuo aiuto😊
Dove trovo la tua spiegazione per modificare l'alternatore da 14 a 16, link?😅 Grazie
Can I use any part of the alternator case as a ground or does it have to be labeled ground or neg?
Why worry about the engine block ground when you are grounding the alternator case, which is secured to the engine via metallic supports,
to the negative battery terminal which is already connected to the chassis? This seems to be a duplication of effort.
Great explanation... Now I finally get it.
I'm about to upgrade to big4, but wasn't certain what the fouth is. First for me is the positive from the alternator positive to the battery positive, the second is from the alternator's negative to the chassis, the third is from the battery's negative to the chassis and the fourth... well it's from the engine to the chassis. Forgot all about it.
he speaks facts!!
Great Job Explaining!!!!!
Hi there, love the finnish accent haha!
From the alternator(+) to the battery(+) does it have to be fused?
I have q 1990 lincon mark 7.. I want to do the upgrade but I wonder if I also should upgrade the power wire that goes for batt pos to starter solenoid?
Definetly good idea to replace 30 years old solenoid cable. At 90s there were alot cars with bad wiring
Great video thank you
Ok so now that i understand i need to do that 4th ground from the back of the alternator, can you help me figure this out....
The back of the 105amp alternator on my 02' GMC 2500hd truck is plasic , sort of like a cap, for whatever reason that's just how there made so how would you recommend grounding for that neg ground? The positive is easy as there is a stud for grounding but seeing how that back end of alternator is plastic where and how can I run the neg ground??? Please reply,
Thank you.
Friday, 5-3-19
Locate the bolt that is used to connect the alternator to the engine, set belt loose and remove the bolt. Use BIG ringterminal and connect the bolt back in. Threads should be long enough for you to secure the alternator correctly. Tighten the belt.
The whole alternator chassis is grounded through bolts to the engine, so if you cannot locate or put big ringterminal to the bolt, then just use nearest big bolt on the engine.
@@teamperanurkka
Ok,
Will do, thank you for repling and the helpful information.
God speed.
5-5-19
great explaned, thank you verry much!
so the point is to ground out better to increase amp output from just a 12v alternator o.o
fukin subscribed
Subscribed!
👌
So in the video and description it says alternator negative to battery is the 4th, BUT, in your summary at the end of the video you say alternator negative to chassis of the car. Just so there's no confusion and a definite answer, which one of these two is correct?
thees is very very good infor ma shun..
should i also run additional negative wire from battery to back of alternator that is negative side of bridge rectafier ?
no comment yes you should. in my BIG4 -video i explain that it is important also, to run extra grounding to your alternator.
team #peränurkka 👌👍
awesum vid!great content thank you
Should this be done even if the battery is in the trunk of the car?
Can the smaller multiple grounds leaving the alternator housing be connected to the same ground spot?
very informative video..
how about ANL fuses? I see a lot of videos of people adding fuse from ALT to Battery?
I'm going to big3 my ford explorer and was wondering what size ANL fuse I should use?
fuses protects only wires, so use appropiate size fuse for the wire. as an example 50mm2 wire(0AWG) use max 250A fuse.
Very good!
So I have three 1/0 gauge cables, should I upgrade the alt negative to battery negative?
Ali Haidar yes!
And the + from the alternator to the + from the battery?
Yup
just a waste. does nothing at all your alterator is already seriously grounded... upgrade your alternator
No, it's not seriously grounded.
You don't know shit after making such a comment.
Ok the only thing I’m worried is alt is far from battery . And I was told to keep ground cables as short as possible , would it affect anything if I run a long ground cable? From neg batt to alt.
Danny Venegas
what up Dee did you ever find out if a long ground wire will effect the purpose of the upgrade
great explanation !!!!
When you say upgrade alternator wire to chassis, it ground wire from alternator to chassis?
Alternator grounds itself to engine, engine to chassis. If you ground alternators frame into battery straight or into chassis, you help the flow of electricity
Engine to chassis is correct for big 3 but where on engine? Not any where, you can put 0 gauge wire.
Kennedy Wong if your idea is to get more from your alternator you ground your alternator to the battery, not on chassis.
Put 0awg under the bolt that alternator is connected to the engine, or as near as possible.
Its not ment to be easy to fit 0awg near alternator, but it can be done.
How many ground wire connected battery, 2 or 3?
There is never too much grounding, but more ground than positive
What about the starter
Is it necessary to have a voltage regulator when you do the Big 4 upgrade?
You do not need to use 0 gauge 2 or 4 gauge is more than enough.
Speak for yourself. I need 400amps, I need 0awg
I'm confused, if you ground the engine properly, and the alternator is bolted to the engine, isn't that good enough and the same as running another wire from the alternator to the engine?
In car audio there is no such thing as enough :)
But yeah, you are right, good grounding is enough, no need to overkill if you are using stock alternator
👍
So my 4th goes from alt to chAssis! Does it matter?
engine has bad grounding, it is best to put wire from alt ground to chasssis or to friont battery also and not rely on engine aluminium frame.
1/0 gauge wire from alternator ground, directly to negative post on battery?
Do u need big 4 on new car alternator aswell?
Yes. Youre factory wires suck. Get sky high audio OFC copper with copper O rings. Makes a big difference
its good for me
Do you need a fuse for the alternator-battery connection? If yes, how much fuse would my 90amp alt need? Thanks!
were do I put the fuse? from what wire? is it ok if I don't use fuse? tnx
Jayvee Diezmo fuse the positive of the alternator to the positive of the battery
TheRudy1629 ok, but how do you determine the fuse rating? By the alternator’s output?
It depend on gauge, you are using will help determine correct fuse.
we're do I put the fuse tnx
within 12" of the battery. i normally put it about 6-8" from battery.
I can't see anything, too dark.
Guy sounds like a robot lol
I like your videos, but yoy need more lighting your video are very dark look at them....
thanks! i have been working on upgrading my studio equipment, but in my experience all the cheap ones are crap and i cannot afford on ones i want to buy. Maybe someday i have good equipment on my studio :)
Dude good studio equipment is very expensive & takes time to acquire. Most people tries for a better camera before ring lights & soft lights. Focus on the information provided. Besides the video is 3 years old.
thanks again for another english speaking video. i dont know if i gave you a view because i stoped the video a few seconds early
+indopleaser no worries! Thanks!
Pretty useless actually. It's important to ground the engine since that's where the alternator gets its ground from, but in the big 3 you already upgrade the alt ground
Adding a 2nd ground wont do any good, electricity naturally takes the path of least resistance
So instead of upgrading engine to chassis it's better to just upgrade alternator to battery?
@@Sawalex19 Either would work it's just that he did both ways, so whichever ground had the least resistance would be the ground used by the alternator all the time, so the other ground would just be un-used.
Though if you run the alt ground through the engine to chassis that creates some resistance, same with running from alt ground to battery terminal, to chassis or body. Really the best way would be alt ground to chassis and battery negative to chassis, separately
@@Sawalex19 Though its not that big a deal, but that would just be the best way. Because depending on your car its possible that the engine or the battery could have a high enough resistance to actually make a difference, this way there's little to no chance of having a bad ground
dont forget to connect alternator ground to positve of battery gives you u a real kick
Pinkie is missleading. Do not connect.
I try not to give any missleading information to help people avoid mistakes 😎