I stumbled here in my "how to reduce weeds naturally and organically" down the rabbit hole. I am very happy and satisfied with everything I saw and heard in the presentation.
I started 3 years ago to build Johnson su bio reactors I compost chicken bedding which consists of wood chips,leaves,hay grown in the back yard I also add soaked wood chips,leaves,bone char,fish waste,rock dusts Basalt, Wollastonite, Volcanophos, Gypsum, & Soft Rock Phosphate,sea 90 mineral salt,granular humic acid,bokashi fermented food scraps,chicken guts and feathers,homemade fish hydrolysate,and two year aged compost to inoculate the pile after the heat comes down I add red wiggles and nightcawlers i always keep it covered with leaves amazing how fast the biology breaks down the leaves ontop have to constantly replace the leaves and I water in fish hydrolysate occasionally I’ve used this compost on my garden and cover crops and it’s day and night
You make some excellent points. Thank you. And FWIW I believe the knf rice protocol is provided at least in part to discourage the short sighted from disturbing or taking forest soils home by the truckload. Thanks for the excellent info
Great information neighbor! I'm from Lansdale. I've read that all part of the black walnut tree contain juglone, except it is strongest in the wood material. Also in low amounts in hickory and locust
Haven't started my worm farm. I am waiting for the weather to warm a little. But do enjoy the videos and will have many questions in the future. Thanks again!
Started my worm factory 360 with ground leaves from the woods out back. Compost pile from a few yrs ago. Coco. Cardboard n paper. Eggshells of course. It's true that worms love leaves. Especially pulverized leaves and compost. Never seen a bin get eaten Soo fast!!! wanna get the castings tested as well. That would be so informative... I'm a composter for life now!!!😂😂😂
Brilliant information. I have myco fungi in the older bark pieces around my lawn. How do I transfer the fungi on the bark to the roots of my lawn which is several feet away?
Maybe this is a dumb question, but hopefully not too dumb! My question is - why would we care to make our vermicompost more fungal as opposed to more bacterial? To expand... I assume a lot of us fixated on the vermicompost aspect of the business are likely doing it for their gardens (or someone else's garden). The plants grown in said gardens/farms would be lower in the plant succession chart, and therefore more on the bacterial/nitrate side as opposed to more fungal/ammonia side. So wouldn't it be more desired to foster bacteria over fungi, unless you're going for trees or something? Did I miss a crucial point for this fungal-dominated over bacterial-dominated vermicompost? Or is it more that the fungi more easily tear through the carbons in the bin?
Good question Evelyn...and hopefully the video communicated that you don't necessarily want fungal vermicomposts over bacterial in all cases. Yes, lots of garden vegetables would want a more bacterial vermicompost. But arborists or folks simply wanting to revitalize trees and shrubs would most certainly want a more fungal vermicompost. Less weed pressure with more fungal vermicompost as well.
@@UrbanWormCompany Thank you for taking the time to answer my question! I must have missed that point in the video. Just was just so much hype that I was beginning to wonder if any respectable vermicomposter would be trying to shoot for more fungal vs bacterial, especially since there's a whole facility aiming to do so. Thanks for clearing that up for me!
@@evelynknight5627one more thing. It is true that most garden plants needs bacterially dominated soils, but that they doesn't need presence of fungi in soil, or fungal biomass. However, as we going from early successional vegetables to row crops, we are talking about a presence of much higher percentage of fungal biomass in soils for row crops than for early successional plants, or even a mid successional plants. So F:B ratio is literally the crucially important thing to consider in order to grow plants from wanted succession. So from right F:B ration, or right fungal biomass it will depend which kind of plants will thrive in that soil. So if we have a fungal dominated compost, we will fastly regenerate soil in the way to get right amount of fungal biomass and F:B ratio for plants we want to grow.
Thanks for letting us know Jon! I'd make sure to come over to UrbanWormCompany.com to join our e-mail list. That's our main method of communication about these events!
With your compost how do you get it to heat up with no high nitrogen component, if your starting materials are 2/3 browns and 1/3 greens? Or is it just expected that it will just take longer to decompose. Is the only reason for hot composting is to get rid of weed seeds, kill pathogens and speed up the decomposition process ? Thank you!
I have a compost bin, and the ph is right around 6.4. I have noticed some fungi presence as well as flying bugs. Do I need to worry about the bugs in the compost? Or should I just let the pile age and hope the bugs die off?
After reading all the comments. Pl allow me to share the following I here in pakistan, started mulching😢 wheat🎉 and rice straw. No need for wigglers was observed. Since mulching lowers soil temp and food for😢😢😢 wigglers🎉 wigglers start multiplying. On their own. Just put owdc, organic waste composer. Put it in a dr🎉😢😢😮um and add😢😢😢 to irrigation water. Good luck.
I stumbled here in my "how to reduce weeds naturally and organically" down the rabbit hole. I am very happy and satisfied with everything I saw and heard in the presentation.
Wonderful! Glad you liked it
I started 3 years ago to build Johnson su bio reactors I compost chicken bedding which consists of wood chips,leaves,hay grown in the back yard I also add soaked wood chips,leaves,bone char,fish waste,rock dusts Basalt, Wollastonite, Volcanophos, Gypsum, & Soft Rock Phosphate,sea 90 mineral salt,granular humic acid,bokashi fermented food scraps,chicken guts and feathers,homemade fish hydrolysate,and two year aged compost to inoculate the pile after the heat comes down I add red wiggles and nightcawlers i always keep it covered with leaves amazing how fast the biology breaks down the leaves ontop have to constantly replace the leaves and I water in fish hydrolysate occasionally I’ve used this compost on my garden and cover crops and it’s day and night
Impressive array you've made. Kudos
Level 100
9:44 Start
Sir you respond all my questions, very well presented thank you
Excellent Troy!!
Really fascinating about not adding sugars to teas. It makes a ton of sense !!
Cheers
You make some excellent points. Thank you.
And
FWIW
I believe the knf rice protocol is provided at least in part to discourage the short sighted from disturbing or taking forest soils home by the truckload.
Thanks for the excellent info
Also know you've got RSA 🇿🇦🇿🇦🇿🇦 following through TH-cam👍👍👍
This is the BEST - I love these Wiggle Wednesdays. So rare to find solid reliable scientific advice on worms rather than just TH-cam opinions.
Great information neighbor! I'm from Lansdale. I've read that all part of the black walnut tree contain juglone, except it is strongest in the wood material. Also in low amounts in hickory and locust
Haven't started my worm farm. I am waiting for the weather to warm a little. But do enjoy the videos and will have many questions in the future. Thanks again!
Oh wow i just watched lots of Rhonda's videos last night😊 she's so fecking cool... Globetrotting vermicompost queen👍😍
Yep! Rhonda gets around....in a good way! 😆
🇨🇦 new worm wrangler here! Just found your channel 😊 subbed and rang the bell! 🇨🇦
Welcome!
A free digital conference we can attend online from home would be wonderful!
Started my worm factory 360 with ground leaves from the woods out back. Compost pile from a few yrs ago. Coco. Cardboard n paper. Eggshells of course.
It's true that worms love leaves. Especially pulverized leaves and compost.
Never seen a bin get eaten Soo fast!!!
wanna get the castings tested as well. That would be so informative...
I'm a composter for life now!!!😂😂😂
Brilliant information. I have myco fungi in the older bark pieces around my lawn. How do I transfer the fungi on the bark to the roots of my lawn which is several feet away?
#Replay from Silicon Valley CA. You're looking sharp. Sorry I couldn't do the live.
Maybe this is a dumb question, but hopefully not too dumb! My question is - why would we care to make our vermicompost more fungal as opposed to more bacterial? To expand... I assume a lot of us fixated on the vermicompost aspect of the business are likely doing it for their gardens (or someone else's garden). The plants grown in said gardens/farms would be lower in the plant succession chart, and therefore more on the bacterial/nitrate side as opposed to more fungal/ammonia side. So wouldn't it be more desired to foster bacteria over fungi, unless you're going for trees or something? Did I miss a crucial point for this fungal-dominated over bacterial-dominated vermicompost? Or is it more that the fungi more easily tear through the carbons in the bin?
Good question Evelyn...and hopefully the video communicated that you don't necessarily want fungal vermicomposts over bacterial in all cases. Yes, lots of garden vegetables would want a more bacterial vermicompost. But arborists or folks simply wanting to revitalize trees and shrubs would most certainly want a more fungal vermicompost. Less weed pressure with more fungal vermicompost as well.
@@UrbanWormCompany Thank you for taking the time to answer my question! I must have missed that point in the video. Just was just so much hype that I was beginning to wonder if any respectable vermicomposter would be trying to shoot for more fungal vs bacterial, especially since there's a whole facility aiming to do so. Thanks for clearing that up for me!
@@evelynknight5627one more thing. It is true that most garden plants needs bacterially dominated soils, but that they doesn't need presence of fungi in soil, or fungal biomass. However, as we going from early successional vegetables to row crops, we are talking about a presence of much higher percentage of fungal biomass in soils for row crops than for early successional plants, or even a mid successional plants. So F:B ratio is literally the crucially important thing to consider in order to grow plants from wanted succession. So from right F:B ration, or right fungal biomass it will depend which kind of plants will thrive in that soil. So if we have a fungal dominated compost, we will fastly regenerate soil in the way to get right amount of fungal biomass and F:B ratio for plants we want to grow.
Gman From South Africa
We're in the RDU area and just started learning about vermiculture and would love to attend this year if you have it
Thanks for letting us know Jon! I'd make sure to come over to UrbanWormCompany.com to join our e-mail list. That's our main method of communication about these events!
Hello from NC
Is millipede casting full of fungi?
On the 19th of February I‘m holding a worm workshop in Pula, Croatia. Where could I get the info for that meeting in Florence?
Why have I been dorking out over microbes and fungus for the last 3 years. once you get worm bin you cant turn back.
Do you think that adding biochar to the food scraps or the soil helps the worms ?
It can definitely help the microbial environment in the soil and there's some evidence the worms can use the smaller particles of biochar as grit
Thanks for your quick answer. Would adding dry yeast to food scraps or soil help the worms or plants ?
From Tasmanian Temperate Rainforest regeneration property in Australia 👋
Theresa from WI
Informative, appreciated
32:00 what video? Where?
Hi,The Goik From County Durham England,Juno 👏👏👏👏♥️♥️
With your compost how do you get it to heat up with no high nitrogen component, if your starting materials are 2/3 browns and 1/3 greens? Or is it just expected that it will just take longer to decompose. Is the only reason for hot composting is to get rid of weed seeds, kill pathogens and speed up the decomposition process ? Thank you!
I have a compost bin, and the ph is right around 6.4. I have noticed some fungi presence as well as flying bugs. Do I need to worry about the bugs in the compost? Or should I just let the pile age and hope the bugs die off?
The flying bugs are fine, in fact, it’s a clue of more microbes etc in the compost pile
nice
Thanks!
What do you mean "cedar,"? We have virtually no cedar. We have Juniper and Thuja, but only in a small pocket in Arkansas.
Red wood ain't cedar either. Some specificity is needed here. This is why we use scientific terms such as Thuja Plicata.
Mine has fungi and small flies also because I don't cover it every time I cover my bin my worms try to scape
Is Coir fiber and coffee grounds good sources of food for fungi?
Coffe ground are great. Trichoderma is likely one of the first that will be on coffee grounds if not penicillin
Must move to no till.
loveee
Thanks Jim!
Converse Louisiana
After reading all the comments. Pl allow me to share the following
I here in pakistan, started mulching😢 wheat🎉 and rice straw. No need for wigglers was observed. Since mulching lowers soil temp and food for😢😢😢 wigglers🎉 wigglers start multiplying. On their own. Just put owdc, organic waste composer. Put it in a dr🎉😢😢😮um and add😢😢😢 to irrigation water. Good luck.
tasmania
Ms gulf coast
To complicated. Sorry gardening should be fun not a pain.
Then don’t listen to their advice… for some people we like “complicated” or knowledgeable advice :)