nice job with the anti-seize and all, not many shops would go the extra mile. A word of advice though: impact tools should never be used to tighten bolts or nuts that hold bearings (such as the big axle nut in this case). This is because the surface of bearing rollers or balls are extra-hardened and thus brittle, and an impact tool can and will chip their surface, causing premature failure.
Did this replacement today and it was pretty horrible. The wheel bearing was stuck, so I had to loosen the whole hub. To do so, the ABS sensor had to be removed, however the bolt broke so I couldn't get it loose. So, had to create a small table with 2 stands to hammer the bearing loose. In all, it took me about approx 3 hours, so don't think it's an easy job as shown in this clip. However, the good news: replacing the bearing was a very rewarding job!
That is what happens when someone has been locked in the same positions for many years, and perhaps tightened beyond what it's supposed to be. Had an old Toyota, changing the bearing took me and entire day because of the same thing. That thing had never been screwed on for atleast 25 years.
Great video, HOWEVER the three hub bolts must be tightened to 170lb. If they are not tightened to that level they WILL back out, taking your CV shaft with it. I may know from personal experience.
The 9-3 ( 2003-2011) do not have a bracket holding the ball joint so you need to remove the nuts on the strut to pull the knuckle off the axel. Be sure to mark the cam bolts with their position (on one side) and which one cam from which hole
Since all the bearings on the 2001 and earlier 9-5's are wearing out, I wish you'd do a video on the bearing replacement without hub replacement.....Please!
Good video. But, a word of warning. My 2004 SAAB 9-5 with 300000km had the brake disc stuck to the hub badly. Also the drive shaft splines where pretty stuck and the hub was stuck as well. Took 2 full days and had to replace brake disc. Heat and WD-40 to soak over night was good things! Be careful hammering out the drive shaft not to squish the threads.
Nice video, But I like to torque the bolts to spec, especially the axle nut. Overtightening the axle nut can mess with the life of the bearing. And, I'll only tighten it when the wheels are on the ground. I realize the video was for illustration purposes, but they have torque specs for a reason, especially on the axle nut.
Hi, I have been driving with only 4 wheel bolts securing my front driver's side wheel for several years after a mechanic stripped one of the threaded holes and just a day ago I replaced the outer front tie rod on that same wheel and now another wheel thread has stripped leaving only 3 bolts to secure the wheel! I can't imagine it's very safe to drive in this condition and I am going to attempt to use a hand tap and hopefully be able to secure a couple new bolts for a temporarily fix until I can get the hub ordered. Am I crazy ? Thanks :)
Wait until you have to remove the axle from a rusty intermediate shaft bearing. You have to take the intermediate shaft bearing out and in order to get that off you need to take the alternator off and out of the bay in order to get clear access to the top bolts that the alternator covers. I would definitely get anti-seize for that clip ring the clip ring if I were to give any advise because you cant get a good hit with a hammer on the ground.
I have to assume it is different as there was no ABS sensor in the hub. Do you have a video that shows the 2004 93 Aero Convertable with the ABS sensor in the hub assembly?
I see that it was a bearing replacement. I also saw that the ball joint look pretty loose, shouldn't the customer had to be notify about it? looks dangerous to me, but it just might be me.
The pre 2002 or so saabs are super high quality cars Just the best but if you have to do engine work it sucks big time because it takes days or even weeks instead of perhaps just an hour or two with mechanic friendly cars
Hi and thanks for this nice flick when i was changing the abs sensorring i broke a wheel bolt and its stuck in the brakedisc and hub i tried to drill and use a boltremover whith no luck i have got the axel out and all 3 bolts in the hub but its stuck in the spindle and wont move a mm Thanks from Sweden Perra.
tighten the axle nut on the ground, transmission in neutral with brakes applied? If it were my car I would power wire brush and paint everything I could with caliper paint. all those shiny parts will just be rusting and freezing up very quickly.
Be careful with that, a layer of paint has a thickness, and when painting things like splines or axle/hub mating surfaces you will have parts that wont line up properly or fit anymore. The aluminum spindle will have a layer of oxidation form, but this is merely aesthetic and actually does a little to protect the actual aluminum part from decaying further.
That's exactly not true. Aluminum contacting steel is big engineering no-no due to big galvanic action potential. Obviously you can get away with it under the right conditions, but painting parts, especially steel that has any contact with aluminum, like brake hubs and lug nuts, can GREATLY slow the rate aluminum will SACRIFICE itself to save rusty steel. Galvanic corrosion and compatibility is really something more technicians need to be aware of. Study a galvanic chart of metals closely. It's why an aluminum wheel can become so frozen to a steel hub you need a puller to prevent damaging it just to get it off. Painting parts can hugely reduce this effect and really save aluminum or magnesium parts. Former sailors are pretty aware of galvanic corrosion, where it's common to bolt a big block of aluminum or magnesium below the water line as corrosion protection. The block disappears rather quickly and is replaced. Don't use your aluminum parts as a galvanic protection sink for your steel parts. Paint all of it. If you inevitably knock some paint off during assembly that can't be avoided but paint will never freeze up parts the way aluminum oxide blooms can cement parts together.
Even happens between stainless and aluminum. It's very tricky business. Even a layer of removable locktite or anti-seize can be useful to partially isolate/insulate steel from aluminum.
you said on a 2005 Saab 9-3 you would replace the state of the ball joint you would loosen it at the knuckle where's the knuckle what is the knuckle what's that mean I'm not a mechanic
Just an fyi, its not a good idea to use koppar based anti sease on an aluminium spindle cuz aluminium and kopper react to each other with heavy corrotion You need to use an aluminium based anti sease
Interesting. I thought you needed a bearing puller but looks like a hammer does the job. Or is it you can avoid removing ball joint and axle if you just use a puller?
OK thanks. I have a 2003 Saab 9-3 and someone thought we can't remove the ball joint on that model so I think I will have to get a bearing puller or a slide hammer to get it off.
Josh- my friend has a 2003 Saab Viggen, the CV Assembly keeps failing. Is there any place where you can find diagrams (and parts) that would replace this? We've been told that replacement parts are non-existent and only a factory part from a used vehicle will suffice. If there's anyone else on this thread that can share thoughts, would be appreciated.
Darwin Morales you can choose to remove the pinch bolt holding the ball joint onto the knuckle, but this method is more difficult because of the way the leverage works with the geometry of the suspension
When my 02 SAAB 95 reaches the speed of 65 miles per hour, the car issued a huge roar. Can I think the wheel bearing is broken? But I don't know is front left or right... so would you give some advice? Thank you very much!
Yes, you won't find much different when doing the 9-3, the bolts are even the same. +45 degrees means that once you reach the listed torque, you must turn it an additional 45 degrees, or 1/8th turn. These types of specs are often given on aluminum bolts that are meant to stretch. We recommend replacing any bolt with a torque angle with new.
Anyone know if 1999 9-3 SE uses a hub assembly like this or if the bearing is pressed right into the strut? Also can the models that don't use a hub assembly be upgraded to the later strut and hub design?
I can't seem to find a pair of front wheel bearing and hub assemblies for my 2000 9-5, how much extra time, tooling, and care is involved in assembling them myself?
Alex, your 9-5 is a front wheel drive car, and all fwd cars have a press in sealed wheel bearing. The bearing, snap ring, and hub you need are all on eEuroparts.com. The hub only needs to be replaced if physically damaged. You'd have to remove the steering knuckle from the car and use a hydraulic press with the correct adapters to remove and install the wheel bearing and hub, which are two separate parts.
Are no manufacturers currently supplying assemblies for the 9-5, I've noticed some available for the 9-3, might those ones work? Eliminating extra tooling, purchased parts, and steps in my upcoming work is a major priority.
Correct. You're right about the 9-3 having a bolt on version (and some 9000s actually) but it's the exception to the rule. Leave it to Saab to go against convention.
It happens, yes. lots of heat and some blows with a hammer will usually free it. You have to put a nut on the axle before hitting it or you will mushroom the threads
Hi. Can I convert to a 02 and up hub and spindle assembly on my 01? And would it give me better brakes option if i go this route? Thank you and great video.
Yes you can, this will allow you to put the bigger calipers and 308mm brake rotors on (we recommend SP Performance rotors). Our reman'd calipers are fairly inexpensive as well. You will need to also change your front struts, since the knuckle is slightly wider on the 02+ cars so the 99-01 shocks can't be mounted. The ball joint also changed with the larger spindle. You can get new control arms, or drill out the ball joint mount holes on the existing control arms to fit the larger 02+ balljoint.
Must be nice to have a 2002+ 9-5 where you can just replace the whole hub assembly. On the 99-01 9-5s you need to press out the old wheel bearing and press a new one into the knuckle. Fucking nightmare on rusty cars even a bitch with a shop and a press.
I thought you torque the lug nuts before setting the car down. Otherwise you are torquing the bolt in a bit lighter because part of your force is just working against the car weight.
The only issue is keeping the wheel from turning with the car in the air, if you have a helper to apply brakes while you torque the lugs that works, but otherwise the deflection in the sidewall of the tire is enough give to allow you to properly torque the wheel lugs. This is just how it's always been.
If you go to OReilly, they can look up the axle's thread pitch and sell an oem universal axle nut that will match the pitch even if the nut size is different. Mine stripped and we found out a Saab axle nut only comes with a replacement axle, but the universal from OReilly saved so many headaches. Just a suggestion.
nice job with the anti-seize and all, not many shops would go the extra mile. A word of advice though: impact tools should never be used to tighten bolts or nuts that hold bearings (such as the big axle nut in this case). This is because the surface of bearing rollers or balls are extra-hardened and thus brittle, and an impact tool can and will chip their surface, causing premature failure.
Did this replacement today and it was pretty horrible. The wheel bearing was stuck, so I had to loosen the whole hub. To do so, the ABS sensor had to be removed, however the bolt broke so I couldn't get it loose. So, had to create a small table with 2 stands to hammer the bearing loose. In all, it took me about approx 3 hours, so don't think it's an easy job as shown in this clip. However, the good news: replacing the bearing was a very rewarding job!
That is what happens when someone has been locked in the same positions for many years, and perhaps tightened beyond what it's supposed to be. Had an old Toyota, changing the bearing took me and entire day because of the same thing. That thing had never been screwed on for atleast 25 years.
Nice job. Thanks. I hope to never have to replace a wheel bearing but this is a good design by Saab with the assembly being replaceable.
Great video, HOWEVER the three hub bolts must be tightened to 170lb. If they are not tightened to that level they WILL back out, taking your CV shaft with it. I may know from personal experience.
If only parts fell apart this easy 😣
Another excellent video - I wish I'd found these sooner.
Excellent video, now do a rusty one! I thought wearing the wist watch like that was a bit high risk though!
Nice job. You guys have saved me a ton of money with your parts and vids like this.
Yeah it's definitely a nice video!!!
That bearing system is really fine.
The 9-3 ( 2003-2011) do not have a bracket holding the ball joint so you need to remove the nuts on the strut to pull the knuckle off the axel. Be sure to mark the cam bolts with their position (on one side) and which one cam from which hole
Brilliant video clear and precise
Since all the bearings on the 2001 and earlier 9-5's are wearing out, I wish you'd do a video on the bearing replacement without hub replacement.....Please!
Spectacular video ! Thanks for posting.
Having mine done to allow new backplate to be fitted as corroded
Saab 9.3 Aero convertible
Good video. But, a word of warning. My 2004 SAAB 9-5 with 300000km had the brake disc stuck to the hub badly. Also the drive shaft splines where pretty stuck and the hub was stuck as well. Took 2 full days and had to replace brake disc. Heat and WD-40 to soak over night was good things! Be careful hammering out the drive shaft not to squish the threads.
Nice video, But I like to torque the bolts to spec, especially the axle nut. Overtightening the axle nut can mess with the life of the bearing. And, I'll only tighten it when the wheels are on the ground. I realize the video was for illustration purposes, but they have torque specs for a reason, especially on the axle nut.
Hi, I have been driving with only 4 wheel bolts securing my front driver's side wheel for several years after a mechanic stripped one of the threaded holes and just a day ago I replaced the outer front tie rod on that same wheel and now another wheel thread has stripped leaving only 3 bolts to secure the wheel! I can't imagine it's very safe to drive in this condition and I am going to attempt to use a hand tap and hopefully be able to secure a couple new bolts for a temporarily fix until I can get the hub ordered. Am I crazy ? Thanks :)
Love the tourqe wrench you use...
When all the bolts come off as easy as that it's....well....easy!, usually they're a bastard to get loosened
Wait until you have to remove the axle from a rusty intermediate shaft bearing. You have to take the intermediate shaft bearing out and in order to get that off you need to take the alternator off and out of the bay in order to get clear access to the top bolts that the alternator covers. I would definitely get anti-seize for that clip ring the clip ring if I were to give any advise because you cant get a good hit with a hammer on the ground.
I have to assume it is different as there was no ABS sensor in the hub. Do you have a video that shows the 2004 93 Aero Convertable with the ABS sensor in the hub assembly?
Amazing video thank you
Perhaps i am to meticulous/unexperienced but no torque measurement used when putting back the nuts?
I got a question. Whenever I try to do it without a impact the axle just turns how can I take it off without it turning
Try to hold the brake to release the center nut before disassembled the whole thing
Marius Neagu I just put a old screw driver in the rotor sine I’m replacing those too and I got it off
I see that it was a bearing replacement. I also saw that the ball joint look pretty loose, shouldn't the customer had to be notify about it? looks dangerous to me, but it just might be me.
Hi, gr8 video - with it I am not scary anymore to do it myself. But the question - shouldn't I remove ABS sensor?
I am about to change the hub in a days, so I need to know that I will do everything correctly :)
Hi Marcin, you do not need to remove the ABS sensor, as shown in the video it can stay mounted in the spindle. Thanks!
eEuroparts.com thanks. I do found your videos very handy. Thanks a lot and keep doing more Saab videos. Cheers :)
The pre 2002 or so saabs are super high quality cars
Just the best but if you have to do engine work it sucks big time because it takes days or even weeks instead of perhaps just an hour or two with mechanic friendly cars
Excellent Video!!!!!
Will I have to get another wheel alignment done after this repair
No, you haven't changed any of the adjustable geometry.
Does anyone have the the tool list?
Hi and thanks for this nice flick when i was changing the abs sensorring i broke a wheel bolt and its stuck in the brakedisc and hub i tried to drill and use a boltremover whith no luck i have got the axel out and all 3 bolts in the hub but its stuck in the spindle and wont move a mm Thanks from Sweden Perra.
Great video. Thank you!
Og saab 9-3 is same process?
tighten the axle nut on the ground, transmission in neutral with brakes applied?
If it were my car I would power wire brush and paint everything I could with caliper paint. all those shiny parts will just be rusting and freezing up very quickly.
Be careful with that, a layer of paint has a thickness, and when painting things like splines or axle/hub mating surfaces you will have parts that wont line up properly or fit anymore. The aluminum spindle will have a layer of oxidation form, but this is merely aesthetic and actually does a little to protect the actual aluminum part from decaying further.
That's exactly not true. Aluminum contacting steel is big engineering no-no due to big galvanic action potential. Obviously you can get away with it under the right conditions, but painting parts, especially steel that has any contact with aluminum, like brake hubs and lug nuts, can GREATLY slow the rate aluminum will SACRIFICE itself to save rusty steel. Galvanic corrosion and compatibility is really something more technicians need to be aware of. Study a galvanic chart of metals closely. It's why an aluminum wheel can become so frozen to a steel hub you need a puller to prevent damaging it just to get it off.
Painting parts can hugely reduce this effect and really save aluminum or magnesium parts. Former sailors are pretty aware of galvanic corrosion, where it's common to bolt a big block of aluminum or magnesium below the water line as corrosion protection. The block disappears rather quickly and is replaced. Don't use your aluminum parts as a galvanic protection sink for your steel parts. Paint all of it. If you inevitably knock some paint off during assembly that can't be avoided but paint will never freeze up parts the way aluminum oxide blooms can cement parts together.
Even happens between stainless and aluminum. It's very tricky business. Even a layer of removable locktite or anti-seize can be useful to partially isolate/insulate steel from aluminum.
What type of impact wrench are you using. I tried a breaking bar with a long pipe last time to no avail.
It's a Bosch electric impact, any 1/2 impact will due. They are amazing tools, we highly recommend them.
What watch is that? Looks dope with the NATO band.
So I have a 2001 Saab 95 and the axel nut doesn't look your's. It's like a dome/ cover. How would I get past that?
2001 and older just use press in replacement bearings. Not replaceable hubs.
Is this the same for a 2004 93 Aero Convertable?
Looks like someone sourced the 2014 wheel caps like I did ;)
why would you get rid of the gryphon
the only reason they don't use the gryphon anymore is because they can't
Does this process apply to rear as well?
you said on a 2005 Saab 9-3 you would replace the state of the ball joint you would loosen it at the knuckle where's the knuckle what is the knuckle what's that mean I'm not a mechanic
well done mate
Just an fyi, its not a good idea to use koppar based anti sease on an aluminium spindle cuz aluminium and kopper react to each other with heavy corrotion
You need to use an aluminium based anti sease
Interesting. I thought you needed a bearing puller but looks like a hammer does the job. Or is it you can avoid removing ball joint and axle if you just use a puller?
OK thanks. I have a 2003 Saab 9-3 and someone thought we can't remove the ball joint on that model so I think I will have to get a bearing puller or a slide hammer to get it off.
Josh- my friend has a 2003 Saab Viggen, the CV Assembly keeps failing. Is there any place where you can find diagrams (and parts) that would replace this? We've been told that replacement parts are non-existent and only a factory part from a used vehicle will suffice. If there's anyone else on this thread that can share thoughts, would be appreciated.
fyi - it's a manual / convertible if that helps
Will this be the same for the rear hubs. I have a 06 9-3.
It will actually be a little easier since you will not have to deal with the axle. It should simply unbolt.
Watt nr for the centrum nut?
so what happens if my lower ball joint is conected to the control arm? I cant take the 3 bolts holding wheel hub out
Darwin Morales you can choose to remove the pinch bolt holding the ball joint onto the knuckle, but this method is more difficult because of the way the leverage works with the geometry of the suspension
When my 02 SAAB 95 reaches the speed of 65 miles per hour, the car issued a huge roar. Can I think the wheel bearing is broken? But I don't know is front left or right... so would you give some advice? Thank you very much!
Check out this article: www.eeuroparts.com/blog/4226/how-to-diagnose-wheel-bearing-noise/
Thanks, very good video but its all stuck on an old car, so there will be needing a trick or two to get everything off.
could I use this procedure for a 2005 9-3 aero? also while using a torque wrench what does it mean by "+45°"
Yes, you won't find much different when doing the 9-3, the bolts are even the same. +45 degrees means that once you reach the listed torque, you must turn it an additional 45 degrees, or 1/8th turn. These types of specs are often given on aluminum bolts that are meant to stretch. We recommend replacing any bolt with a torque angle with new.
Love ya videos 🥰
Anyone know if 1999 9-3 SE uses a hub assembly like this or if the bearing is pressed right into the strut? Also can the models that don't use a hub assembly be upgraded to the later strut and hub design?
The OG 9-3 uses a strut insert, and a knuckle with a pressed in bearing. It's a much different design, we have them available
I can't seem to find a pair of front wheel bearing and hub assemblies for my 2000 9-5, how much extra time, tooling, and care is involved in assembling them myself?
Alex, your 9-5 is a front wheel drive car, and all fwd cars have a press in sealed wheel bearing. The bearing, snap ring, and hub you need are all on eEuroparts.com. The hub only needs to be replaced if physically damaged. You'd have to remove the steering knuckle from the car and use a hydraulic press with the correct adapters to remove and install the wheel bearing and hub, which are two separate parts.
Are no manufacturers currently supplying assemblies for the 9-5, I've noticed some available for the 9-3, might those ones work? Eliminating extra tooling, purchased parts, and steps in my upcoming work is a major priority.
Correct. You're right about the 9-3 having a bolt on version (and some 9000s actually) but it's the exception to the rule. Leave it to Saab to go against convention.
Buying a used SAAB has been such a roller coaster, but I will be stronger because of it, thanks for the help!
Has anyone experienced the axle and hub splines seized ? We are cutting the hub off with a Torch right now....
It happens, yes. lots of heat and some blows with a hammer will usually free it. You have to put a nut on the axle before hitting it or you will mushroom the threads
Hi. Can I convert to a 02 and up hub and spindle assembly on my 01? And would it give me better brakes option if i go this route?
Thank you and great video.
Yes you can, this will allow you to put the bigger calipers and 308mm brake rotors on (we recommend SP Performance rotors). Our reman'd calipers are fairly inexpensive as well. You will need to also change your front struts, since the knuckle is slightly wider on the 02+ cars so the 99-01 shocks can't be mounted. The ball joint also changed with the larger spindle. You can get new control arms, or drill out the ball joint mount holes on the existing control arms to fit the larger 02+ balljoint.
Nice! thank you for the valuable information.
One more thing forgotten to mention, the inner tie rods all need to be of the 02+ style. The outers are the same. Thank you.
what kind of wheels are those??
About to buy an 02 Saab 9-3 and was wondering what kinda rims you had on??
They are sport edition SE-16
Would this be like a 2007 Saab 9-3
Yeah first thought.. how can everything be so clean.. This is so far from reality :P
is this anything like 2000 9 3?
Unfortunately no, the first generation 9-3's use a completely different style of spindle. You will need to remove the strut and press the bearing in.
I have an 02 9-3 can't find a definite answer if I need the bearing pressed in or I can do the hub assembly thanks
Must be nice to have a 2002+ 9-5 where you can just replace the whole hub assembly. On the 99-01 9-5s you need to press out the old wheel bearing and press a new one into the knuckle. Fucking nightmare on rusty cars even a bitch with a shop and a press.
I thought you torque the lug nuts before setting the car down. Otherwise you are torquing the bolt in a bit lighter because part of your force is just working against the car weight.
The only issue is keeping the wheel from turning with the car in the air, if you have a helper to apply brakes while you torque the lugs that works, but otherwise the deflection in the sidewall of the tire is enough give to allow you to properly torque the wheel lugs. This is just how it's always been.
eEuroparts.com weird. I always torque with them in the air. Loosening is not possible, but I've tightened them in the air.
Ok..just realized its because I had only one tire jacked!
Better imposible.from spain
What size is that axle nut on an 08 9-3? And is new one required? Cheers
According to WIS (at least for 9-5s) it's recommended to get a new nut
jagerwick I think it's a 32 mm
If you go to OReilly, they can look up the axle's thread pitch and sell an oem universal axle nut that will match the pitch even if the nut size is different. Mine stripped and we found out a Saab axle nut only comes with a replacement axle, but the universal from OReilly saved so many headaches. Just a suggestion.
32mm
Would it basically be the same steps for my 05 saab 9-3
Yes, you won't find any major difference except for lower ball joint, which will be disconnected at the knuckle instead of the control arm.
eEuroparts.com ok thank you for responding and very informative videos.
what size is the axle nut?
32 mm
2000 9-5 have bolt on wheel bearing?
Yes they do
Don't use copper lubricant! The hub is made of aluminum.
Don’t impact the axle nut on
230nm on the wheel bolts? ok lol
.
What wheels are these on this 9-5??