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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ก.ย. 2024
- Please note that I forgot to mention two screws in the front panel under the door itself that you need to takeoff. If you open the door to the dryer you will find two screws in the bottom on the front panel itself that you will need to remove in order for the entire front panel to tilt forward. I should’ve inserted this instruction for taking off these two screws at 1:35.
Very helpful! A couple more notes:
(1) If you have trouble with the "opening the oven door" part, check that you've removed the two screws that are at the lint trap accessed by opening the dryer door.
(2) For removing the horizontal panel circled in red at 2:10, I didn't find it necessary to remove any screws at the back or front that hold the washer and dryer together. I only had to remove the two screws that hold that panel in place.
(3) I was unable to remove the two screws that were deep inside holding the flame manifold (at 4:02 in the video), but I was able to remove the old orifice anyway.
(4) Make sure you have a small 10mm wrench to undo the orifice. The wrench does not need to be open ended - I was able to slip a circular wrench over the orifice. Access is very tight, so it needs to be small, and there is not much room for movement. I used a small 10mm wrench with a circular ratcheting mechanism, which worked perfectly.
(5) I found it impossible to screw the new orifice back in, because of difficult access (maybe it would have been easier if I had been able to remove the flame manifold.) I solved the problem by removing the whole gas regulator mechanism (the regulator assembly is visible at 3:28 in the video, it comes off the right angle bracket that is under and to the left of it.) To do this required removing three screws that hold the regulator assembly to the right-angle bracket, two wiring harnesses, and one screw at the back of the machine that holds the gas supply pipe in place where it exits the rear of the machine.
(6) Be very careful what connector hose you get -- you may need another part. The connector on my unit was not a flare connector, but the only flexible braided stainless steel gas supply hoses I could get were for flare connectors. To make it work I needed one additional part: a "3/8" female NPT x 3/8" male flare thread adapter" (which is a little brass connector that adapts from 3/8 NPT to fare connector.) See the answer by "Jimmy Fix-it" to this question: diy.stackexchange.com/questions/54008/why-wont-this-3-8-male-connector-for-a-natural-gas-dryer-fit-a-3-8-female-conne (has a picture and more info.)
Thanks again for the super-helpful video!
Thanks for sharing this. I had to do this surgery yesterday on my new LG wash tower. I also was able to avoid moving the dryer back and removing the ventury cover. I just used a small wrench and went slow.
I have a newer model and there were a couple of additional steps BUT this video was still the best thing out there. Couldn't have done it without.
Nice walkthrough. Very detailed but you forgot the two screws inside the front door.
Thanks, really helpful! I have been searching for any resource from LG, but it appears there is nothing. You saved the day!
EXCELLENT - - - THANK YOU. As previously noted, the two screws inside the front door (lower section, by the lint trap), and depending on the size of your hand and inverse dexterity ability, may not need to remove the rear screws or even that front panel (I just pulled its two screws out and tilted it forward a bit). Again, as noted, nothing available on this LG Washtower unit nor any help with the LPG orifice "kit". Thanks Again. 👍👍👍
Very informative! Thank you very much! God forbid they might send installation instructions with the orifice! Seriously, thanks! Very well done!
I did not apply sealant or Teflon tape to the orifice threads, figuring that because the outlet side is open to the atmosphere there will be no pressure to force gas out around the threads; it'll take the path of least resistance out through the business end of the orifice. Also, I read tplate62's comments; he has some good suggestions. As for removing / replacing the orifice and tightening the white gas valve screw in the regulator, I ended up using tplate62's idea of entirely removing the gas regulator and input tube: 4 screws (on on the back of the machine, the other three on the regulator itself). That done, I removed the NG orifice with ease, got the NP orifice in place, and tightened down the white screw.
Was the actual nylon screw what needed to be turned, or just the nut run down to the brass washer?
The video shows just a few threads above the nut which would indicate the screw needs to be turned.
Mine seems locktited in place
Thank you for the video it is very helpful. Excellent instructions!
I was able to turn it enough so the nut is flush with the brass piece. However, in your video the brass piece is flush with the silver nut below it. In my brand new tower, there is a gap between the bottom nut and the brass. You have any idea if this needs to be flush as well?
Great video! I have been searching for this…
Good explanation.
You didn't mention the two screws holding the front panel to the front of the drum cowling. They are located near the sides and at the bottom of the door opening.
You’re right. I forgot! Thank you. I added this to the description.
I need some advice from others who have done this LP conversion to their WashTower.
I did the conversion and found this video and the tips in the comments so helpful!
I have it all hooked up and put back together, and the dryer is working as expected, but it is loud! Can anyone else confirm that their LP dryer makes a "blow torch" type sound? Or do I have something messed up? Did you guys need to add a regulator to the line feeding the dryer?
Just finished mine and it sounds the same as yours. Followed directions to the T. I did the same conversion on my last dryer (different model and style) and that one was loud as well.. I’d be interested to see some detailed instructions on the gas regulator adjustment.
@@Steve-kf1lxthanks for the reply. We’ve been using ours for a few months and it’s been loud but works great! So maybe it’s just expected to sound like that.
@@JoeyBauer777
Not a problem. Mine seems to be running well too, fingers crossed
THAT'S STUPID! (NOT YOU, THE DESIGN) SO MUCH REDUNDANCY TO CHANGE OUT A TINY ORIFICE. I'M JUST GOING TO "SAFELY" CUT OUT A "MAINTENANCE PANEL" FROM THE SIDE TO ACCESS IT. LG SHOULD HAVE ENGINEERED IT BETTER TO ACCOMMODATE LP USERS. 😕