You ain't boring us, Adam your'e doing an expert job of boring that plate instead! Also that skyhook crane really is put through the wringer - can see the flex , but it handles it well!Take care and stay safe guys, greetings from the UK!
Beeing from Norway / Europe I'm amazed at how well he has his 5/8th's 55/24s 3/16s 44/33s and 3 quarters of a fifth of a third... All in his head. That is commitment for you. (I'm joking guy's, probably something you learn when only working with imperial measurements all your life.)
It's SAE, not imperial, and yeah you get good at fractions. Although, except for drill sizes most things in machining are measured in thous (thousandths of an inch)
Cool video Adam, I appreciate your time with explaining for us novices. It's interesting how others tell you how there is a 'better way' like you just started doing it yesterday...
I'm a second year apprentice in Germany and your remark in regards to your counterbore tool being too large with a 1" diameter for a 15/16 hole made me curious about the American size that would be correct. I am always on the look out to learn more, so out of curiousity I looked up the German standard: A 15/16 cap screw would be about an M16 screw with a 23,8 mm head, which would receive a 26 mm or 1" countersink. Your channel got me interested in metalworking by the way and inspired me to become a precision mechanik. I like how you often explain what you are going to do, it has taught me a lot already and I am looking forwards to learn more. Thank you! :)
I like when you give beginner tips. I come from more of a CNC background, but it is always helpful to know how to do stuff the manual way and use some tools I am not familiar with.
Not a machinist, but I can see how the Sky Hook and that magnetic lifting device allows those Abom size parts to become manageable. Always enjoy watching you work.
My only suggestion would be for Adam to make a lockable rotating adapter for between the hook and chain on that Sky Hook so that if and when needed he can unlock and rotate whilst connected to Sky Hook rather than having to lower onto trolley - if these heavy lift jobs are going to be regular. HTH
Thank you. I hadn't thought of that way to find a true center. I usually use a small bit and see if it deflects but your way is much better so truly appreciated. Now I just need to buy myself that setup.
Definitely going to grab one of those wigglers for my drill press. More precision than I need, but will help correct for my lack of skill since I don't use it for metal that often. Great tip.
Regarding the tool trays: Fill the back side with epoxy or polyester resin (composite resin, not body filler). You can use fine gravel as a filler so that you don't need so much resin. I do this with the flimsy vacuum molded styrene trays you get in today's tool kits - it turns the flimsy tray into a tray that will last forever.
Just got done drooling over SCAT Chevy 383 rotating assemblies on their website, and what do I see in my YT notifications? Adam doing cool stuff. What's not to love about the WIGGLER? I know in the CNC world all that stuff is taken from (0, 0) and indexed, but something special about old school machining.
Never had Sky Hook back in my day. I use to love to watch the tool and die makers in our shop. They were the "elite"! The rest of us were just machine operators.
Adam, know for some reason, people do not mention Doubleboost. But he uses that type of centerfielder all the time. Cool way to quickly get located in.
I think I'm gonna invest in one of them skyhook type cranes, I always laughed at um, but last weekend i pulled my back out heaving a large cube while setting up a casting to be machined on my bridgeport mill.
The Skyhook seems to be working really well and being able to attach it to the bed of the various machines makes it really handy. As for the lift cart, there are two types of people, those who have one and those who need one and that goes for even if you aren't doing machining. The 1 ton ones lift high enough to line up with a lot of pickup beds.
Hi Adam, great video. Yes, maybe boring to the know it alls, but i love how you go into detail on how to use things. I never knew how to use a wiggler set, I did see it on facebook, but this is the full video. I would have liked to see just how close you got to being center on those holes, just to know. I thought you were going to do those holes on the K&T for some reason.
all those material handling gadgets are really coming in handy. for years i have used the pointed edge finder to center up holes for drilling. i drop the pointer into the center punch and let it sit there while you adjust the table you can feel the slightest misalignment with your finger nail. i dont trust the wiggler because the point can take a set when you drop it into the centerpunch . you really need to recenter it ever time you hit the center punch to be sure its still on center.
The wiggler is actually really easy to see when it is dead on center. The tip appears to stand still and stop spinning. The slightest bit off from being off center and it "blurs." Try them side-by-side sometime and I bet you can't tell the difference. I find the pointed end of the edge finder is useful if I have to locate off a small hole that is already there. The wiggler with pointy tip is useless then and the edge-finder with pointy tip works very well. So many ways to skin a cat.
@@utidjian i guess its its all a mater of taste David. both will get the job done. i had a tool and die maker friend who would use sewing needles stuck into a blob of clay at the end of a milling cutter he would start the machine and center the needle like a wiggler and use it to pick up features on his work.
@@larrysperling8801 Oh for sure it is a matter of taste. I guess that is why there is a still a market for edge finders, wigglers, optical centering scopes, DROs, dials, Blakes, DTIs, layout plates and tables, surface gages, height gages, CMMs, electronic probes, rulers, scales, hook rules, gage blocks... and dozens more that I have forgotten or I am too lazy to type in. I never used the needle and clay method though I have heard of it. It has the distinct advantage that one does not have to swap out the wiggler for the tool each time. Also easy if the spindle speed is low or can be lowered easily.
Hi. I have a bunch of counterdrills whit the fix pilot. U can't change. But what I have, almost always has the wrong pilot . So I make something like Adam. Or the print request other clearance then the pilot
Even using the prybar to get the plate up you should really be using some sort of a push bar to get the parallel under. I was told long ago by a guy missing the tip of a finger "never stick your finger anywhere you wouldn't stuck your pecker" 😂
Have you tried taking the magnet outside and blasting the swarth off it with shop air? I don’t know it if it will work with that large magnet, but it works with my smaller magnets.
Hi Adam, I think the Sky Hook needs a larger diameter handwheel. It looks like the small wheel is hard to turn with that weight on it, and knowing you don't do too many light small jobs either.
This is a good question. Spotfacing helps ensure that the pilot drill stays vertical and doesn't "walk" or bend, which results in a non-vertical or oval hole. At 6:44 Adam gives us a great head on view of the larger drill bit where you can see the "flat" section in the middle. With a small pilot drill that can bend, that small flat spot may cause the bit to skid over the material surface before digging in and starting the hole. By spotfacing and providing a countersink for the pilot drill to match up with, you know it will start drilling in the right location. I don't know if we see the tip of the spotting drill in this video, but from what it looks like based on the chips and how pretty the countersink looks, is Adam has a special grind on his spotting drill where that center flat on the tip is removed, essentially the two flutes meet perfectly in the middle. It is also relatively wide and short which helps with rigidity, again helping ensure that the countersink it leaves is centered in the correct location. We use center drills a lot at work, which serve the same purpose but only have one flute and a stepped grind. upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/d/df/CenterDrills123456.jpg/400px-CenterDrills123456.jpg
Nice job Adam, but I have a question: why would you not tap the holes right after drilling them? Everything was lined up and it would seem to be more efficient to tap the holes in the same setup as the drilling. You gave some great explanations of basic layout methods and how to use the centre-finder wiggler to align the spindle with the punch divot. I also really liked the optical punch unit and those neat little trays.
Many edge finders, such as B&S have a point on the opposite end of the .200 side that is typically used for edge finding. I never see anyone use this feature. Adam, what are your thoughts. Not a criticism in any way, just something I've wondered about. I dont have a wiggler or a Blake. I've made many plates like that on a radial using only layout lines and a dead center, big Ooya radial drill. Thanks for the video, Will
Thanks, this is such good information for a beginner. Would you cut a large counterbore in the same way? Let’s say for a hex head bolt, and allowing clearance for a socket.
Yes, it is the same effect that makes wheels and propellers or rotors e.g. on helicopters look like not moving or spinning backwards. LEDs usually flicker, also we do not usually see this due to either the frequency or some kind of inertia in some LEDs (mainly those that use chemical coatings to create a certain color, but actually it is 99 % frequency) If the camera shutter is not synched exactly to the LED frequency they will flicker. same with fluorescent lamps. sometimes depending on the chip type in the camera you may also see those brighter and darker stripes vertically rolling through the picture. To avoid that effect you would have to run the LEDs on actual DC (which is rare) or use a shutter speed that is slower than the cycle for the LED. In the LEDs this flicker is usually generated by how the LEDs are driven, or more exactly which power supply is used. In the simplest case (most LED light bulb) it is just a capacitive dropper, that more or less cuts the AC sine wave in half, so you will find frequencies related to the AC frequency, 60 Hz for the US and Canada, and 50 Hz in Europe for example. Better capacitive power supplies invert the "negative" partof the sine wave so we get double the frequency. Only the "inertia" of our eyes allows us to not usually see a flicker. Incandescent bulbs flicker at twice the AC frequency as well as the currents sine wave peaks at positive and negative and in between crosses zero. it is just that the actual glowing of the filament wil dampen the flicker as it does not cool down fast enough to make it visible. Some LED drivers use smoothing capacitors to generate such an effect. Less an issue are switch mode power supplies. those internaly use a chip to change the frequency to something in the range of 30 kHz, which allows a lot smaller transformers to be used. To capture that flicker you would have to borrow a camera from the slow mo guys to make it visible.
Would be an interesting experiment to measure if and by how much that skyhook is flexing the mill table. Doubt it could do any damage but its definitely not the type of load the bed was intended to take.
Agreed. This channel used to be all machining and the proper methodology. Over the last year it's more about extolling the virtues of certain tooling and products, many of which are provided free of charge by the maker, coupled with vacation experiences. I have already cancelled my subscription to one channel that did much the same thing and I am thinking about doing the same here.
@@oh8wingman This channel was also showing a lot of work he did when he used to work for Motion. Those types of jobs are not likely to happen very much now that Adam has gone solo. I don't see any problem. Don't let the door hit you on the way out.
Hey Abom! Question, is there a reason for why - when drilling - you squirt the oil at the upper parts of the bit and let it drip down as opposed squirting oil directly at the cut? Just wondering always interesting to see you work!
Instead of drilling a smaller hole for the bigger one . I think you could get away with out the smaller by making a crankshaft split on the chisel. The drill should center itself better too .
You ain't boring us, Adam your'e doing an expert job of boring that plate instead! Also that skyhook crane really is put through the wringer - can see the flex , but it handles it well!Take care and stay safe guys, greetings from the UK!
Thank you Adam, for all you do so many years in the machinist community. Great.
Beeing from Norway / Europe I'm amazed at how well he has his 5/8th's 55/24s 3/16s 44/33s and 3 quarters of a fifth of a third... All in his head. That is commitment for you. (I'm joking guy's, probably something you learn when only working with imperial measurements all your life.)
It's SAE, not imperial, and yeah you get good at fractions. Although, except for drill sizes most things in machining are measured in thous (thousandths of an inch)
Can’t wait for the shaper to take some cuts on the engine that will be an interesting set up and tool for sure!
Love watching you work. Careful, methodical, efficient and accurate. The paradigm!
Cool video Adam, I appreciate your time with explaining for us novices. It's interesting how others tell you how there is a 'better way' like you just started doing it yesterday...
I'm a second year apprentice in Germany and your remark in regards to your counterbore tool being too large with a 1" diameter for a 15/16 hole made me curious about the American size that would be correct.
I am always on the look out to learn more, so out of curiousity I looked up the German standard:
A 15/16 cap screw would be about an M16 screw with a 23,8 mm head, which would receive a 26 mm or 1" countersink.
Your channel got me interested in metalworking by the way and inspired me to become a precision mechanik.
I like how you often explain what you are going to do, it has taught me a lot already and I am looking forwards to learn more.
Thank you! :)
If you're interested in CNC machining I can recommend the channel "Edge Precision"
I like when you give beginner tips. I come from more of a CNC background, but it is always helpful to know how to do stuff the manual way and use some tools I am not familiar with.
Not a machinist, but I can see how the Sky Hook and that magnetic lifting device allows those Abom size parts to become manageable. Always enjoy watching you work.
My only suggestion would be for Adam to make a lockable rotating adapter for between the hook and chain on that Sky Hook so that if and when needed he can unlock and rotate whilst connected to Sky Hook rather than having to lower onto trolley - if these heavy lift jobs are going to be regular.
HTH
You are not just a Master Craftsman, you are a spatial genius, and a polite guy on top of all that!!
I like those 'changeable pilot' counterbores!
Same counterbore for different size holes.
Thank you. I hadn't thought of that way to find a true center. I usually use a small bit and see if it deflects but your way is much better so truly appreciated. Now I just need to buy myself that setup.
Adam, the “Norm Abrams” of metal working! Great job!
Its full joy for me watch you working and learn.
Easily my favorite journey on TH-cam!
Fantastic content and I loved every minute of it! The accuracy via trained eyes and layouts is cool.
This is some of your best closeup photography ever. Beautiful stuff, great color and light.
The right tool for the job makes every task that much more precise.
And therefore a radial drill press is the right choice here😅
Looking forward to seeing this work on the stoker engine.
I have a Starrett wiggler set. This is the first time I've seen how the pointer tool is meant to be used. Thank you!
A great testament to the quality of the Sky Hook
Adam sets a high standard for a skillful and decent man
I love that Abbey is willing to get in there and shoot some of those handheld shots for you! That's a great partnership!
Definitely going to grab one of those wigglers for my drill press. More precision than I need, but will help correct for my lack of skill since I don't use it for metal that often. Great tip.
Love this channel,never miss an episode.
I liked your use of the wiggler for centering- very skillfiul.
Never be tempted to use a finger to get the wiggler to run true, I will not reveal how I know that.
Very nice. Thanks Abom
Thank you Adam I always enjoy watching your wonderful videos I am from South Africa
Aangenaame kenis! Bly versigtig.
I enjoy watching your videos Adam.
Great video Adam. Thank you for sharing your work. I hope to one day at least be half the machinist that you are.
Excellent Work As Always.................................
Good to see the Bridgeport Mill being used. I use WD40 to drill that type and size of hole.
DoAll mill...
I thought it was a bridgeport, maybe DoAll just badged them up. Hi from Buxton.
Bridgeport clone. It’s a DoAll, made in Taiwan
meticulous work as always mate. thanks for the upload.
Man that skyhook is the bomb'
Gotta have me one or two, I restore old machinery and sale some once in a while, great job man.
... is the Abom'
Good job Adam, bought ready to put it to work.👍👍👍👍👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Regarding the tool trays: Fill the back side with epoxy or polyester resin (composite resin, not body filler). You can use fine gravel as a filler so that you don't need so much resin.
I do this with the flimsy vacuum molded styrene trays you get in today's tool kits - it turns the flimsy tray into a tray that will last forever.
Just got done drooling over SCAT Chevy 383 rotating assemblies on their website, and what do I see in my YT notifications? Adam doing cool stuff. What's not to love about the WIGGLER? I know in the CNC world all that stuff is taken from (0, 0) and indexed, but something special about old school machining.
Fascinating Adam great job 👏
Nicely done!!Cheers!
Thanks for showing us the hole story 😉
I have to say you do amazing work sir I only wish I lived near you to have some barrels threaded
Between you and Keith, I must have 8 hours into this job.
Fascinating !! 👍 ✔️👍
Never had Sky Hook back in my day. I use to love to watch the tool and die makers in our shop. They were the "elite"! The rest of us were just machine operators.
A sky hook along with a long stand and elbow grease are old tradition fictional tools and stuff for send green apprentices to go and get.
Adam, know for some reason, people do not mention Doubleboost. But he uses that type of centerfielder all the time. Cool way to quickly get located in.
0'man that...Skyhook is the berry's right there.....Saves the back and all....Thanks very much...
love your wiggler!
Brilliant 👍🏼
Excellent content Adam.
I know a guy that has a Carlton that would have been perfect for this job.
I think I'm gonna invest in one of them skyhook type cranes, I always laughed at um, but last weekend i pulled my back out heaving a large cube while setting up a casting to be machined on my bridgeport mill.
The Skyhook seems to be working really well and being able to attach it to the bed of the various machines makes it really handy. As for the lift cart, there are two types of people, those who have one and those who need one and that goes for even if you aren't doing machining. The 1 ton ones lift high enough to line up with a lot of pickup beds.
Scary. I thought the Sky Hook was going to pop the cast iron T slots on the bed of the mill.
Hi Adam, great video. Yes, maybe boring to the know it alls, but i love how you go into detail on how to use things. I never knew how to use a wiggler set, I did see it on facebook, but this is the full video. I would have liked to see just how close you got to being center on those holes, just to know.
I thought you were going to do those holes on the K&T for some reason.
Too bad the radial drill wasn't in action. It would have been perfect for that job.
Looks like your beautiful Miss Abby helping at the end. Great Video Adam
Hi Adam, Got here from Trenton and Heath! Glad to have found you!
I have one of those little wiggler sets, now I know how to use the pointed end! (came to me from my grandfathers tools)
Thanks for sharing!
all those material handling gadgets are really coming in handy. for years i have used the pointed edge finder to center up holes for drilling. i drop the pointer into the center punch and let it sit there while you adjust the table you can feel the slightest misalignment with your finger nail. i dont trust the wiggler because the point can take a set when you drop it into the centerpunch . you really need to recenter it ever time you hit the center punch to be sure its still on center.
The wiggler is actually really easy to see when it is dead on center. The tip appears to stand still and stop spinning. The slightest bit off from being off center and it "blurs." Try them side-by-side sometime and I bet you can't tell the difference. I find the pointed end of the edge finder is useful if I have to locate off a small hole that is already there. The wiggler with pointy tip is useless then and the edge-finder with pointy tip works very well. So many ways to skin a cat.
@@utidjian i guess its its all a mater of taste David. both will get the job done. i had a tool and die maker friend who would use sewing needles stuck into a blob of clay at the end of a milling cutter he would start the machine and center the needle like a wiggler and use it to pick up features on his work.
@@larrysperling8801 Oh for sure it is a matter of taste. I guess that is why there is a still a market for edge finders, wigglers, optical centering scopes, DROs, dials, Blakes, DTIs, layout plates and tables, surface gages, height gages, CMMs, electronic probes, rulers, scales, hook rules, gage blocks... and dozens more that I have forgotten or I am too lazy to type in. I never used the needle and clay method though I have heard of it. It has the distinct advantage that one does not have to swap out the wiggler for the tool each time. Also easy if the spindle speed is low or can be lowered easily.
I just turn a pilot to the clearance hole size so I don't have to drill for the bolt size followed by the clearance size.
Thats what i was thinking...never seen it done like that before
Hi. I have a bunch of counterdrills whit the fix pilot. U can't change. But what I have, almost always has the wrong pilot . So I make something like Adam. Or the print request other clearance then the pilot
Use tape to clean your magnets.
Now thats a great idea!!!
@@StreuB1 Good electrical tape works great.
@@WarpFactor999 Doesn't matter which tape. Just giving my 2 cents.
Nice!! Great precision...back saver... :-)
a good way to remove dust and steel particles from the magnet is any kind of adhesive tape.
I need to get one of those sky lifts for my truck lol
i like the sky hook
Google it along with 'long stand' and 'elbow grease'.
I'm sure the skyhook can handle the load, wouldn't the t-slot be the weak link?
Air hose blow guns get chips off a magnet really nice.
Even using the prybar to get the plate up you should really be using some sort of a push bar to get the parallel under. I was told long ago by a guy missing the tip of a finger "never stick your finger anywhere you wouldn't stuck your pecker" 😂
I'd like to see the wiggler action better: may i suggest a small mirror on the side, to see the other angle also?
Have you tried taking the magnet outside and blasting the swarth off it with shop air? I don’t know it if it will work with that large magnet, but it works with my smaller magnets.
Quality duct tape works wonders for cleaning magnets as well
Hi Adam can you please let us know what speeds you are using for the various drilling s you are doing?
🙂 WOW🙂
AB, we gotta have an update on the radial drill
Do you plan to put it on the shaper to flatten the plate
That plate's size is right at the limit for your setup.
@Jim H Not the weight, the dimensions he had to work to get it on to and off of the cart.
perfect job opportunity for your radial arm drill. just sayin .
Hi Adam, I think the Sky Hook needs a larger diameter handwheel. It looks like the small wheel is hard to turn with that weight on it, and knowing you don't do too many light small jobs either.
I'd assume the hand wheel is that size so you don't overload the unit.
It has a gearbox ... 🙄
with this much weight on the mill table do you get any deflection from the weight of the plate on the table ?
Ha!!
Question Adam, what could happen to the drilling of the pilot holes if you didn't spotface first?
This is a good question. Spotfacing helps ensure that the pilot drill stays vertical and doesn't "walk" or bend, which results in a non-vertical or oval hole.
At 6:44 Adam gives us a great head on view of the larger drill bit where you can see the "flat" section in the middle. With a small pilot drill that can bend, that small flat spot may cause the bit to skid over the material surface before digging in and starting the hole. By spotfacing and providing a countersink for the pilot drill to match up with, you know it will start drilling in the right location.
I don't know if we see the tip of the spotting drill in this video, but from what it looks like based on the chips and how pretty the countersink looks, is Adam has a special grind on his spotting drill where that center flat on the tip is removed, essentially the two flutes meet perfectly in the middle. It is also relatively wide and short which helps with rigidity, again helping ensure that the countersink it leaves is centered in the correct location.
We use center drills a lot at work, which serve the same purpose but only have one flute and a stepped grind. upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/d/df/CenterDrills123456.jpg/400px-CenterDrills123456.jpg
Adam why didn't you use your electromagnetic drill instead?
Nice job Adam, but I have a question: why would you not tap the holes right after drilling them? Everything was lined up and it would seem to be more efficient to tap the holes in the same setup as the drilling.
You gave some great explanations of basic layout methods and how to use the centre-finder wiggler to align the spindle with the punch divot. I also really liked the optical punch unit and those neat little trays.
Many edge finders, such as B&S have a point on the opposite end of the .200 side that is typically used for edge finding. I never see anyone use this feature. Adam, what are your thoughts. Not a criticism in any way, just something I've wondered about. I dont have a wiggler or a Blake. I've made many plates like that on a radial using only layout lines and a dead center, big Ooya radial drill. Thanks for the video, Will
Use compressed air or sticky tape to remove chips from magnet.
Compressed air!!! Gasp! Someone find Mr Pete and have him bring a stake and some matches, we have a heretic!
Could you use that wobbly center finder in a mag drill?
Im wondering if the entire operation could be done with a mag drill?
Thanks, this is such good information for a beginner. Would you cut a large counterbore in the same way? Let’s say for a hex head bolt, and allowing clearance for a socket.
That certainly could be done in similar manner. It might require 2 or more counterbore steps to open up far enough for a hex head and socket.
the counterbore itself can be done with a centercutting end mill
is it not too heavy for the milling machine plate?
(Google traduction)
19:44 interesting effects on that DRO screen. I assume it's the camera almost syncing with the screen refresh.
Yes, it is the same effect that makes wheels and propellers or rotors e.g. on helicopters look like not moving or spinning backwards. LEDs usually flicker, also we do not usually see this due to either the frequency or some kind of inertia in some LEDs (mainly those that use chemical coatings to create a certain color, but actually it is 99 % frequency)
If the camera shutter is not synched exactly to the LED frequency they will flicker. same with fluorescent lamps. sometimes depending on the chip type in the camera you may also see those brighter and darker stripes vertically rolling through the picture. To avoid that effect you would have to run the LEDs on actual DC (which is rare) or use a shutter speed that is slower than the cycle for the LED.
In the LEDs this flicker is usually generated by how the LEDs are driven, or more exactly which power supply is used. In the simplest case (most LED light bulb) it is just a capacitive dropper, that more or less cuts the AC sine wave in half, so you will find frequencies related to the AC frequency, 60 Hz for the US and Canada, and 50 Hz in Europe for example.
Better capacitive power supplies invert the "negative" partof the sine wave so we get double the frequency. Only the "inertia" of our eyes allows us to not usually see a flicker.
Incandescent bulbs flicker at twice the AC frequency as well as the currents sine wave peaks at positive and negative and in between crosses zero. it is just that the actual glowing of the filament wil dampen the flicker as it does not cool down fast enough to make it visible.
Some LED drivers use smoothing capacitors to generate such an effect.
Less an issue are switch mode power supplies. those internaly use a chip to change the frequency to something in the range of 30 kHz, which allows a lot smaller transformers to be used. To capture that flicker you would have to borrow a camera from the slow mo guys to make it visible.
Would be an interesting experiment to measure if and by how much that skyhook is flexing the mill table. Doubt it could do any damage but its definitely not the type of load the bed was intended to take.
any reason to use vertical mill versus mag drill ?
Mag drills are usually fixed speed, wouldn't want to use that counter bore tool in that one, at least I wouldn't.
Could you have slid the ram forward to get the front holes, drilling all holes in one set up?
He showed that it wouldn't reach the outer holes.
A whole episode to drill 8 holes? I miss the good old days on this channel.
Use fast forward if you pass your boredom threshold tbh. You might miss some interesting detail, but who cares?
Agreed. This channel used to be all machining and the proper methodology. Over the last year it's more about extolling the virtues of certain tooling and products, many of which are provided free of charge by the maker, coupled with vacation experiences. I have already cancelled my subscription to one channel that did much the same thing and I am thinking about doing the same here.
@@oh8wingman look on my channel
@@oh8wingman This channel was also showing a lot of work he did when he used to work for Motion. Those types of jobs are not likely to happen very much now that Adam has gone solo. I don't see any problem. Don't let the door hit you on the way out.
Who'd a thought the sound of boring steel would be so pleasureable!!
oh! ok just me!
*10:55* _Are you sure those trays aren't vacu-formed?_
Heh ... I was thinkin that.. 🤫
I'm sure Adam knows .. just a slip of the tongue.. 😏
Those drill bits and tool trays are not injection molded, they're vacuum molded I think. nifty nonetheless.
@0:55 150%. You're welcome
Abom, when are you starting a bbq channel on youtube? Your grill skills seem be that of a champs, and I would love to see some grilling vids
Hey Abom! Question,
is there a reason for why - when drilling - you squirt the oil at the upper parts of the bit and let it drip down as opposed squirting oil directly at the cut? Just wondering
always interesting to see you work!
Same result.
Instead of drilling a smaller hole for the bigger one . I think you could get away with out the smaller by making a crankshaft split on the chisel. The drill should center itself better too .
What's the advantage of using a 1" counterbore vs. a 1" endmill?
The endmil may try to wander when touching the surface, the counter bore is guided by the pilot and kept straight.