Loving this, I sailed a Tanzer 22 on Lake Michigan/Traverse Bay for seven years. I've never had a more fun boat. I had the iron fin keel version, so never had to deal with the centerboard issues. One thing to note: those boats have a fiberglass tube directly from the cockpit drains to the hull with no seacock. Some have had problems when water got in that rube during the winter, froze, split the tube and then sank in the spring.
Hello Owen, this is James from lLiving Life, I would have the same engine problems with our 9.8 Tohatsu. I think it is a vapour lock? Try raising your tank up higher so it is higher then your engine. That seams to fix it for our engine.
Keel top Hull joint The T22 keel is cast iron and rust could make the keel to hull joint to look pretty bad without being a major issue. As long as there is no water intrusion into the bilge, it may no be dramatic. It can be a good idea to clean the joint of the old failing sealant ( as must as possible ) and after cleaning the keel of any rust to apply 3M 5200 FAST. This will reduce the migration of water between the keel and the hull. Andre
Thanks for the tip, Andre. My next video will show a little more of the joint after cleaning the hull. It seems you have the correct diagnosis. Luckily, the boat doesn't take on any water. Now I need to come up with a plan to get it fixed up. Thanks again for watching.
@@VoyageDreams thanks, now it’s in for a tune up. It runs for a bit then stalls, or struggles for fuel along the way. Either way not reliable so in the shop it goes
Listen, for what it’s worth I had that same engine (6hp mercury/tohatsu). I was one step away from getting someone in to to do an exorcism on it. Would run, then stall, sometimes would idle high, other times low, sometimes it would start idling high then go slow, then stall, etc. I did a full carb job on it and it made no damned difference. I complained to my local dealer about it and he said that when they get these engines in the drill out the brass plug that covers the mix needle. Then they spray carb cleaner or other right into the orifice (after taking needle right out) and then they reinstall needle). No need to replace brass plug afterwards. That did the trick. Also, the main jet orifice is soooo tiny that it get plugged up completely if gas is left sitting. It can be unclogged by poking a very fine filament through the jet.
@@VoyageDreams depends where you are. We are on an exposed part of Lake Ontario. 6hp is not enough to get us out without getting beat up pretty bad and having prop bounce in and out of water. I ended up ditching my 6hp and grabbing a ‘70’s 15hp 2-stroke (same as a 9.9 but with bigger carb). Now THAT moves the T22 through chop. It’s only 70lbs so still fine, weight-wise. 4 stroke is very finicky if you only use the motor occasionally.
Loving this, I sailed a Tanzer 22 on Lake Michigan/Traverse Bay for seven years. I've never had a more fun boat. I had the iron fin keel version, so never had to deal with the centerboard issues. One thing to note: those boats have a fiberglass tube directly from the cockpit drains to the hull with no seacock. Some have had problems when water got in that rube during the winter, froze, split the tube and then sank in the spring.
Hello Owen, this is James from lLiving Life, I would have the same engine problems with our 9.8 Tohatsu. I think it is a vapour lock? Try raising your tank up higher so it is higher then your engine. That seams to fix it for our engine.
hello, great video! quick question, could you cruise the coast of Maine in a Tanzer 22? thank you!
Keel top Hull joint
The T22 keel is cast iron and rust could make the keel to hull joint to look pretty bad without being a major issue.
As long as there is no water intrusion into the bilge, it may no be dramatic. It can be a good idea to clean the joint
of the old failing sealant ( as must as possible ) and after cleaning the keel of any rust to apply 3M 5200 FAST.
This will reduce the migration of water between the keel and the hull.
Andre
Thanks for the tip, Andre. My next video will show a little more of the joint after cleaning the hull. It seems you have the correct diagnosis. Luckily, the boat doesn't take on any water. Now I need to come up with a plan to get it fixed up. Thanks again for watching.
Hey there, I also just picked up a tanzer 22. Mine has a tohatsu 6hp. Is this adequate for coming and going from the marina?
Hi Brandon, I currently also have a 6HP Tohatsu on the Tanzer and it is plenty. You shouldn't have any trouble with it pushing your boat.
@@VoyageDreams thanks, now it’s in for a tune up. It runs for a bit then stalls, or struggles for fuel along the way. Either way not reliable so in the shop it goes
Listen, for what it’s worth I had that same engine (6hp mercury/tohatsu). I was one step away from getting someone in to to do an exorcism on it. Would run, then stall, sometimes would idle high, other times low, sometimes it would start idling high then go slow, then stall, etc. I did a full carb job on it and it made no damned difference. I complained to my local dealer about it and he said that when they get these engines in the drill out the brass plug that covers the mix needle. Then they spray carb cleaner or other right into the orifice (after taking needle right out) and then they reinstall needle). No need to replace brass plug afterwards. That did the trick. Also, the main jet orifice is soooo tiny that it get plugged up completely if gas is left sitting. It can be unclogged by poking a very fine filament through the jet.
@@VoyageDreams depends where you are. We are on an exposed part of Lake Ontario. 6hp is not enough to get us out without getting beat up pretty bad and having prop bounce in and out of water. I ended up ditching my 6hp and grabbing a ‘70’s 15hp 2-stroke (same as a 9.9 but with bigger carb). Now THAT moves the T22 through chop. It’s only 70lbs so still fine, weight-wise. 4 stroke is very finicky if you only use the motor occasionally.