I have no complaints! That's how the automatic chokes worked on cars back when carbs were used before fuel injectors. A bi-metal coiled spring when cold, would pull the choke shut when you pushed the gas pedal to the floor once to reset the choke. After the engine warmed up the spring would open the choke. I really miss the days when I could connect a motor to a car with 3 or 4 wires and two battery cables and could get a little more power by loosening a bolt on the distributor and turning it a little bit to advance the timing.
I never had problems with the old manual style before all this new stuff , they just added all these extra's to make more buck's for someone... More things to break down....
I'm with you on that one Mr K ain't no telling how many pulls I've made against that open choke lol, funny now that its understood. I'm having to pull 5 or 6 time before it crank, but it runs well now after. I wish I could eliminate those axtra pulls, but the mower was dogged very bad before I got it looks like they tried to cut red mudd it was everywhere.
I have a lawnmower with one of these systems.I wondered but three years later I have not had to pull the shroud off. Technology from the 50's maybe 60's.Off to go mow the back lawn ironically.lol
I see in your demo that you had a troy built power washer. I went to use my power washer and it would not start, had issues in the pass with it not starting well. I had added gas and stall-built for the winter, but needed to use it one more time. Would not start!!! Took carb apart and cleaned it and putting stuff back together and couldn't find where the chock link hook to, there is no thermostat on my engine? It's not there. Just ordered one from B&S.
Nice good sir. I have a Cub Cadet with a Kohler 7000 and just today when starting it, it started and then never increased power like normal. I popped the top and pulled the air cleaner and noticed the choke never would open and it would just sputter until it died. I manually (with my finger, ha!) pushed the choke open then it ran normal. So do you think the thermistor thingy you showed is my issue or could it be another part? Thanks!
Can you do a walkthrough of all the components on modern “throttle less” small engines? I recently figured out the auto choke feature on a Troy Bilt mower but was puzzled by the fact there was no throttle adjustment. Also, would be helpful to understand their failure modes you have seen. Thanks.
Great video. Long time subscriber. Got a question. How do you set the timing on a 6.75hp craftsman eager-1? Engine model 143.016728. I see the timing mark on the cam but not on the crank. I've looked everywhere to find the dimple on the teeth and cannot find it. How do you set the timing without the mark on the crankshaft? Thanks from Wills Point.
Good to know Can an ignition coil show spark but not enough to start on a two cycle grass trimmer? Have a Redmax that I have changed 2 carburetors and still wont start. Not even a pop. Tried starting fluid and still nothing Just curious as to what you might think
Your trimmer may not have enough compression to run, or the spark arrestor screen isn't allowing the engine to cycle correctly. See if you can get it to fire over with some oil in the spark plug hole and starter fluid in the intake if removing the arrestor screen doesn't help.
Bad compression or fuel mixture. lots of small carb. holes get clogged and relies on pressure pulses to feed fuel. Put a squirt of fuel in the throat an give a cord a few pulls untill the air/fuel evens out, if it starts, your carb. needs work.
Ive had many that will light one of those cheap on line testers bit wont fire under compression. I use an adjustable tester so i can see where the spark gap stops. Usually a 1/4 inch gap spark in atmosphere will simulate enough to fire under Compression. th-cam.com/video/dipmevU5cjU/w-d-xo.html
I've run in to issues where someone ran the mix ratio very heavy on oil and did short trim jobs "not long enough to get it hot for a long period of time". Overtime it got hard to start then just wouldn't start anymore. I had to flush the fuel out. Put fresh fuel in it at the correct ratio and take a drill and just go to town cranking it till it hit. It smoked like a freight train for about 10 min then it was fine. Basically what I'm explaining is the crank was full of oil from sitting around and the heavy oil mix. The proper thing would have been to flush the crank as well but the guy was in a big hurry. Something to think about if it's got spark and will not hit even with starting fluid. He was my neighbor that is how I knew he was not getting it hot. I watch him pull it out fire it up and before even taking the choke off was halfway done trimming. I told him to sell it and get and electric one because a two minute trim job don't need a gas trimmer. LOL
You mention that you really need to use fresh gas. On "another channel," a guy says he see "all sorts of issues" when these Briggs engines are run completely out of gas. I asked him what he meant and he responded, "Yes, running the tank dry does indeed cause issues!" but didn't say what those "issues" are. I have a 2017 Toro with this type of engine, run the gas out & pull the carb drain plug each Fall before storing it and haven't had a problem . . . yet. Any idea what that guy could be talking about??? (yes, I put the drain plug back on after a few).
Chris B Critter you will always have residual fuel left in the carb even after it runs out of gas unless you crack the main jet loose and blow the carb out with air to dry it out
Once it’s Hot It shouldn’t need choking if it does you Have carb Issues or the choke spring may be lazy but a lazy spring would make It run rich while it warmed up
They do this so there is less steps involved to start an engine. To make it easier for people like women or the elderly less things to remember. You would not believe the people that forget to push the primer.
Works until it doesn't I guess, and probably no parts to repair it, so I'd think a fix would be a manual choke cable if that automatic choke fails. My new Troy Bilt TB115 has that system, so far it starts on the first pull, we shall see how long that lasts LOL.
Yup when mine quits I'm gona just run a small piece of throttle cable wire through the side and choke it by hand. Cheap made junk and I'm a die hard Briggs fan untill recent years. Makes me sick
@@THEMOWERMEDIC1 I agree, unfortunately they've went cheap chinese plastic inside, wouldn't surprise me to see plastic pistons in the near future with plastic connecting rods. If all goes south I'll go snag my Uncle's 30 year old SCAG 36" Walk Behind with the 14HP Kohler Command engine on it...wish that thing had an hour meter, it got 25 years of hard use mowing 3 acres of blackberry vines that just wouldn't die as well as grass, up and down a pretty steep hill. Cost almost $900 in parts to get it all tuned up and going again after it sat for 6 years but it still does an awesome job cutting grass and still stripes a lawn really dang good for the abuse it took.
I have no complaints! That's how the automatic chokes worked on cars back when carbs were used before fuel injectors. A bi-metal coiled spring when cold, would pull the choke shut when you pushed the gas pedal to the floor once to reset the choke. After the engine warmed up the spring would open the choke. I really miss the days when I could connect a motor to a car with 3 or 4 wires and two battery cables and could get a little more power by loosening a bolt on the distributor and turning it a little bit to advance the timing.
Shoot, I miss the days when you wouldn't have to pull the engine and remove an axle to change your alternator.!
I never had problems with the old manual style before all this new stuff , they just added all these extra's to make more buck's for someone...
More things to break down....
Good.video. ... but nothing beats a cable man or just a reg adjustments like a lever
I’ve converted a couple of these on the Quantum style engines back over to the primer setup. Much more reliable.
Could you this function with a hot air blower, blowing on the part?
Very interesting. Thank you for teaching me something new today.
I'm with you on that one Mr K ain't no telling how many pulls I've made against that open choke lol, funny now that its understood. I'm having to pull 5 or 6 time before it crank, but it runs well now after. I wish I could eliminate those axtra pulls, but the mower was dogged very bad before I got it looks like they tried to cut red mudd it was everywhere.
I have a lawnmower with one of these systems.I wondered but three years later I have not had to pull the shroud off. Technology from the 50's maybe 60's.Off to go mow the back lawn ironically.lol
I see in your demo that you had a troy built power washer. I went to use my power washer and it would not start, had issues in the pass with it not starting well. I had added gas and stall-built for the winter, but needed to use it one more time. Would not start!!! Took carb apart and cleaned it and putting stuff back together and couldn't find where the chock link hook to, there is no thermostat on my engine? It's not there. Just ordered one from B&S.
Nice good sir. I have a Cub Cadet with a Kohler 7000 and just today when starting it, it started and then never increased power like normal. I popped the top and pulled the air cleaner and noticed the choke never would open and it would just sputter until it died. I manually (with my finger, ha!) pushed the choke open then it ran normal. So do you think the thermistor thingy you showed is my issue or could it be another part? Thanks!
Can you do a walkthrough of all the components on modern “throttle less” small engines? I recently figured out the auto choke feature on a Troy Bilt mower but was puzzled by the fact there was no throttle adjustment. Also, would be helpful to understand their failure modes you have seen. Thanks.
So if that's how the auto chokes work, I would suspect that they don't restart very good if trying to restart right away?
I have a troy built mower with a choke arm that you pull on, but it automatically releases it. Same concept?
Great video. Long time subscriber. Got a question. How do you set the timing on a 6.75hp craftsman eager-1? Engine model 143.016728. I see the timing mark on the cam but not on the crank. I've looked everywhere to find the dimple on the teeth and cannot find it. How do you set the timing without the mark on the crankshaft? Thanks from Wills Point.
K. Powell i'm not at the shop right now give me a little bit so I can do some research and I'll get back with you
Does the crankshaft have a ball bearing or is the timing mark just worn off?
I believe it's worn off.
I failed to mention it does not have a ball bearing.
you had me at Dealie McBopper
Good to know
Can an ignition coil show spark but not enough to start on a two cycle grass trimmer? Have a Redmax that I have changed 2 carburetors and still wont start. Not even a pop. Tried starting fluid and still nothing
Just curious as to what you might think
Your trimmer may not have enough compression to run, or the spark arrestor screen isn't allowing the engine to cycle correctly. See if you can get it to fire over with some oil in the spark plug hole and starter fluid in the intake if removing the arrestor screen doesn't help.
Bad compression or fuel mixture. lots of small carb. holes get clogged and relies on pressure pulses to feed fuel. Put a squirt of fuel in the throat an give a cord a few pulls untill the air/fuel evens out, if it starts, your carb. needs work.
Ive had many that will light one of those cheap on line testers bit wont fire under compression. I use an adjustable tester so i can see where the spark gap stops. Usually a 1/4 inch gap spark in atmosphere will simulate enough to fire under Compression. th-cam.com/video/dipmevU5cjU/w-d-xo.html
I've run in to issues where someone ran the mix ratio very heavy on oil and did short trim jobs "not long enough to get it hot for a long period of time". Overtime it got hard to start then just wouldn't start anymore. I had to flush the fuel out. Put fresh fuel in it at the correct ratio and take a drill and just go to town cranking it till it hit. It smoked like a freight train for about 10 min then it was fine. Basically what I'm explaining is the crank was full of oil from sitting around and the heavy oil mix. The proper thing would have been to flush the crank as well but the guy was in a big hurry. Something to think about if it's got spark and will not hit even with starting fluid. He was my neighbor that is how I knew he was not getting it hot. I watch him pull it out fire it up and before even taking the choke off was halfway done trimming. I told him to sell it and get and electric one because a two minute trim job don't need a gas trimmer. LOL
You mention that you really need to use fresh gas. On "another channel," a guy says he see "all sorts of issues" when these Briggs engines are run completely out of gas. I asked him what he meant and he responded, "Yes, running the tank dry does indeed cause issues!" but didn't say what those "issues" are. I have a 2017 Toro with this type of engine, run the gas out & pull the carb drain plug each Fall before storing it and haven't had a problem . . . yet. Any idea what that guy could be talking about??? (yes, I put the drain plug back on after a few).
Chris B Critter you will always have residual fuel left in the carb even after it runs out of gas unless you crack the main jet loose and blow the carb out with air to dry it out
Thank you for sharing.!
So once the engine is running and hot and you kill it, how does it restart if the choke is still open?
Once it’s
Hot
It shouldn’t need choking if it does you
Have carb
Issues or the choke spring may be lazy but a lazy spring would make
It run rich while it warmed up
Good video , liked see it move .
Great concise video.
Good vid. Thanks.
They do this so there is less steps involved to start an engine. To make it easier for people like women or the elderly less things to remember. You would not believe the people that forget to push the primer.
Works until it doesn't I guess, and probably no parts to repair it, so I'd think a fix would be a manual choke cable if that automatic choke fails. My new Troy Bilt TB115 has that system, so far it starts on the first pull, we shall see how long that lasts LOL.
Yup when mine quits I'm gona just run a small piece of throttle cable wire through the side and choke it by hand. Cheap made junk and I'm a die hard Briggs fan untill recent years. Makes me sick
@@THEMOWERMEDIC1 I agree, unfortunately they've went cheap chinese plastic inside, wouldn't surprise me to see plastic pistons in the near future with plastic connecting rods. If all goes south I'll go snag my Uncle's 30 year old SCAG 36" Walk Behind with the 14HP Kohler Command engine on it...wish that thing had an hour meter, it got 25 years of hard use mowing 3 acres of blackberry vines that just wouldn't die as well as grass, up and down a pretty steep hill. Cost almost $900 in parts to get it all tuned up and going again after it sat for 6 years but it still does an awesome job cutting grass and still stripes a lawn really dang good for the abuse it took.
Interesting!! Thanks bud
They've had chokes like this on cars for over 70 years. Why'd they finally decide to to this on mowers just recently?
I think you blew the engine, fluid leaked out under engine.
What was that sudden appearance of liquid? Feed line shook loose? Helpful video.