Have to agree with you about the craftsman touch . Something’s get lost in time. A few months ago I hired an old man, a retired painter, to paint out small park model mobile home. “Painter Bob”as I used to call him, passed away recently, our place being his last. I walk around our place looking for a place he missed or where he dripped some paint on the patio and could find no mistakes. I’m amassed when I think back of him painting all but a tiny bit with a 6”brush. The few brush tracks I see just add to the great job he did. I miss seeing him sit resting on his little stool drinking a “sodeee pop” as he called them .
Nice job! I agree with the SW Emerald urethane; good stuff. I try to spray all my trim in my Reno’s with my airless and it always comes out nice. One small thing I do differently with the doors is I turn them back and forth into a “W” shape - makes it easier to reach both sides. If there’s any concern with them sticking to the drop cloth/Ram board, etc. you can always tack a paint strip on the bottoms but I’ve never had any issues. That is a lot of work to get to that point with the trim!
I’ve done the same w pattern for 20 years, it’s the way to go. I just did a built-in library/entertainment center. I used the emerald for the first time, ran it through my old 440. It lays down and sands like lacquer. Really great stuff, can’t wait to use it again.
Very adaptable sprayer. I like that interchangeability. Well done. And yes, automotive paint is painfully expensive. For those out there that don't know, it can be many hundreds of dollars per gallon or even per quart!
Great work. We used to finish similarly, 2 things that could help efficiency. SW has a trim product in their pro classic line that is an acrylic/alkyd hybrid. It levels well dries hard & leaves no tool marks. Lastly when attaching doors together to spray set them like a “W” rather than parallel slightly larger footprint but you don’t bump anything with the house & the lighting is better.
Ron, thanks for another video. I love watching em. Looks like you had to back to work after a long time off. Good for you. I did a modified version of your plans for a work bench. I love it. I have been remodeling average homes as a property manager and then fixing them up to sell since the 1970's. I did a small stint working for a custom painting contractor in 1976. Used to be just brush and roll in those days. We all used some really good oil based enamel on the door and trim. God did it lay out nicely! Really made painting fun looking back watching it flow. I've painted countless homes and cabinets since. I was drawn to your video to see if you had any better luck with your HVLP to my airless. Couldn't get the resolution to tell. I think it is the long way around to paint anything before it is attached. You could save all kinds of labor painting the jams and casings after they are installed! And have a better job too. Painting loose material is old school before the time saving sprayers. You can set up the actual room to spray in. Get your tarps masked tight to the flooring. Like a military bed, no wrinkles. Personally, I walk the doors and spray them with 1 corner against a wall and spray each side by handling them from the top and the handle hole. Yes, most production painters use the W layout, but hay, these are really important, and I like to see them and have full access. I pull from a stack and when finished they may be 4" separating them. Use a vacuum with a horse hair round brush attachment to vac up all your sanding dust. Follow up with a tac rag. Won't take that long to ensure a clean surface. Just blowing moves dust from one surface to another. And vac the floor, before you mask. If you shoot just a little paint on the floor first it will keep any loose dust from blowing on to the doors. Your jams and casings will need to be nailed and repaired. Then they will need to be caulked, casing to the jam and casing to the wall. After that, you pretty much need to start over anyway. All your coats will be going over the spackle or putty and caulk. This just improves the build and you will not be moving around loose boards and material. Want some brush marks? Apply about 2/3 the spray amount, run a brush through the material and then top spray it finished! Beautiful! Mask off the trim, sand the overspray and finish the ceiling and walls. Better and faster. With all this bragging, I have to admit, I am having trouble getting the airless finishes I used to get with the older higher VOC water based paints. Seems if I spray the door edges first, then the paint doesn't fully attach to itself after spraying the door face. Fisheye. Like you can see between the spray particles. Add enough paint to get it to cover and it will drip. Anyone out there with advise? My tip too small?
My painting is as a novice. I built over 200 new homes and countless remodels. 99% of them I hired painting contractors. My main painter came up to me in 2006 and said as of this billing cycle you have paid me over $1 million dollars to paint your house.😎🤙
@@TheSmartWoodshop I really enjoy your channel. Just watched your recent plank flooring entry. Liked your layout and scribing tricks. Often carpenters don't like painting. Since you now own a Titan HVLP and seem to be proficient at operating it, I thought I might give some pointers and get some help from one of your other followers.
at 61 I am old school too and prefer hands on. looking at that house, one would think your in Australia. very typical. I enjoy you vids mate and relate.
Yes, we just started with SW Emerald because we couldn’t get BM Impervo. that we used exclusively Foyt years. They all flow well, maybe too well as I want brush marks in my work.😎🤙
Totally agree that too smooth of a finish looks plasticky. It also makes my eye not pick up on the moulding lines as well as if there’s a texture to the finish
I didn't pay attention to the feeling of smooth paint for a long time. I had a great painter that came from the auto paint world. He filled all nail holes, then sanded them and filled again. When he was done with prep everything was perfect. He knew how to set up a sprayer for a glass finish. Then about 20 years ago, I build a large detailed mantle for a client and offered to paint it telling him about our prep and how it would look. This was a 5000' highly detail custom home with no expense spared. He smile and ask me to walk over to a large wall of windows that were heavily trimmed. He pointed out the brush strokes in the paint and said, I have craftsman that uses a brush to finish off these works of art. A glass finish would make it look like cheap plastic. From that moment on, I completely changed our painting process.
Hi Ron great timing on the video as I’m helping my son paint his 8’ doors this week. Wondering if you had to thin the paint at all? Thanks again for the videos and looking forward to seeing the final reveal of the fixer-upper.
Hi Ron Nice job! Ad that Titan looks a great system … currently unavailable on Amazon? and no European distribution as far as I can see … perhaps its only available in the US?
Anthony, the flicker is on your end. The video on my computer does't have any flicker and I watched it on YT with no flicker either. Hopefully if others are having the same issue they will comment.
![KRK - ชนิสรา Ft.WanMai , N/A [Official MV] Prod. By Sakarin](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/C-WMwwYobcU/mqdefault.jpg)
Have to agree with you about the craftsman touch . Something’s get lost in time. A few months ago I hired an old man, a retired painter, to paint out small park model mobile home. “Painter Bob”as I used to call him, passed away recently, our place being his last. I walk around our place looking for a place he missed or where he dripped some paint on the patio and could find no mistakes. I’m amassed when I think back of him painting all but a tiny bit with a 6”brush. The few brush tracks I see just add to the great job he did. I miss seeing him sit resting on his little stool drinking a “sodeee pop” as he called them .
😎
Nice job! I agree with the SW Emerald urethane; good stuff. I try to spray all my trim in my Reno’s with my airless and it always comes out nice. One small thing I do differently with the doors is I turn them back and forth into a “W” shape - makes it easier to reach both sides. If there’s any concern with them sticking to the drop cloth/Ram board, etc. you can always tack a paint strip on the bottoms but I’ve never had any issues. That is a lot of work to get to that point with the trim!
I did struggle getting all around the doors. Good tip about the W shape.
I’ve done the same w pattern for 20 years, it’s the way to go. I just did a built-in library/entertainment center. I used the emerald for the first time, ran it through my old 440. It lays down and sands like lacquer. Really great stuff, can’t wait to use it again.
Good advice on the plastic look. This video was good timing for me too. Nice work.
Glad it was helpful!
Very adaptable sprayer. I like that interchangeability. Well done. And yes, automotive paint is painfully expensive. For those out there that don't know, it can be many hundreds of dollars per gallon or even per quart!
The Titan is well designed.
Great work. We used to finish similarly, 2 things that could help efficiency. SW has a trim product in their pro classic line that is an acrylic/alkyd hybrid. It levels well dries hard & leaves no tool marks. Lastly when attaching doors together to spray set them like a “W” rather than parallel slightly larger footprint but you don’t bump anything with the house & the lighting is better.
Thanks for the tips!
Agree on the paint strokes Ron. Done well you think, A master craftsman was here.
Yep!
Really liking this series. Looking forward to the door hanging!
Coming up soon 😎
Love the comment about brushing paint. I'm a house painter and absolutely agree about how perfect spray jobs can make things look plastic.
What? BS
@@Helmuesi911 Dumb troll
Ron, thanks for another video. I love watching em. Looks like you had to back to work after a long time off. Good for you. I did a modified version of your plans for a work bench. I love it. I have been remodeling average homes as a property manager and then fixing them up to sell since the 1970's. I did a small stint working for a custom painting contractor in 1976. Used to be just brush and roll in those days. We all used some really good oil based enamel on the door and trim. God did it lay out nicely! Really made painting fun looking back watching it flow. I've painted countless homes and cabinets since.
I was drawn to your video to see if you had any better luck with your HVLP to my airless. Couldn't get the resolution to tell.
I think it is the long way around to paint anything before it is attached. You could save all kinds of labor painting the jams and casings after they are installed! And have a better job too. Painting loose material is old school before the time saving sprayers.
You can set up the actual room to spray in. Get your tarps masked tight to the flooring. Like a military bed, no wrinkles. Personally, I walk the doors and spray them with 1 corner against a wall and spray each side by handling them from the top and the handle hole. Yes, most production painters use the W layout, but hay, these are really important, and I like to see them and have full access. I pull from a stack and when finished they may be 4" separating them.
Use a vacuum with a horse hair round brush attachment to vac up all your sanding dust. Follow up with a tac rag. Won't take that long to ensure a clean surface. Just blowing moves dust from one surface to another. And vac the floor, before you mask. If you shoot just a little paint on the floor first it will keep any loose dust from blowing on to the doors.
Your jams and casings will need to be nailed and repaired. Then they will need to be caulked, casing to the jam and casing to the wall. After that, you pretty much need to start over anyway. All your coats will be going over the spackle or putty and caulk. This just improves the build and you will not be moving around loose boards and material. Want some brush marks? Apply about 2/3 the spray amount, run a brush through the material and then top spray it finished! Beautiful!
Mask off the trim, sand the overspray and finish the ceiling and walls. Better and faster.
With all this bragging, I have to admit, I am having trouble getting the airless finishes I used to get with the older higher VOC water based paints. Seems if I spray the door edges first, then the paint doesn't fully attach to itself after spraying the door face. Fisheye. Like you can see between the spray particles. Add enough paint to get it to cover and it will drip. Anyone out there with advise? My tip too small?
My painting is as a novice. I built over 200 new homes and countless remodels. 99% of them I hired painting contractors. My main painter came up to me in 2006 and said as of this billing cycle you have paid me over $1 million dollars to paint your house.😎🤙
@@TheSmartWoodshop I really enjoy your channel. Just watched your recent plank flooring entry. Liked your layout and scribing tricks.
Often carpenters don't like painting. Since you now own a Titan HVLP and seem to be proficient at operating it, I thought I might give some pointers and get some help from one of your other followers.
Great work!! Thanks so much for sharing Ron!
Glad you enjoyed it
You are the ultimate craftsman.
Thanks Bill😎🤙
Good idea for painting doors, I was going to do mine flat, and round over the edges before painting
😎👍
at 61 I am old school too and prefer hands on. looking at that house, one would think your in Australia. very typical. I enjoy you vids mate and relate.
They build with block in Australia?
@@TheSmartWoodshop yes, often. And normally core fill completely with steel every second course horizontal and every second hole vertically.
Thanks
You bet!
Looking great!
Thank you! Cheers!
All are doors, casing, baseboard we use the pro classic. goes on smooth without brush or roller marks.
Yes, we just started with SW Emerald because we couldn’t get BM Impervo. that we used exclusively Foyt years. They all flow well, maybe too well as I want brush marks in my work.😎🤙
Hey Ron, that Sherwin-Williams Emerald Trim pain is the best that I have ever used.
It’s decent, not the best.. especially for the price, there are much better options.
Totally agree that too smooth of a finish looks plasticky. It also makes my eye not pick up on the moulding lines as well as if there’s a texture to the finish
I didn't pay attention to the feeling of smooth paint for a long time. I had a great painter that came from the auto paint world. He filled all nail holes, then sanded them and filled again. When he was done with prep everything was perfect. He knew how to set up a sprayer for a glass finish. Then about 20 years ago, I build a large detailed mantle for a client and offered to paint it telling him about our prep and how it would look. This was a 5000' highly detail custom home with no expense spared. He smile and ask me to walk over to a large wall of windows that were heavily trimmed. He pointed out the brush strokes in the paint and said, I have craftsman that uses a brush to finish off these works of art. A glass finish would make it look like cheap plastic. From that moment on, I completely changed our painting process.
Hi Ron great timing on the video as I’m helping my son paint his 8’ doors this week. Wondering if you had to thin the paint at all? Thanks again for the videos and looking forward to seeing the final reveal of the fixer-upper.
I did not thin the paint, but with the HVLP I had to keep spraying to build of the coat.
Probably 90+ degrees in Florida this week, so low viscosity effect on the paint?
I always remove the door after fitting and use a roller to paint.
Not a bad idea. There is a threshold though: 5 10 15 20 doors? My method is to hire a painter and let them decided😎
Great job as always!
Thanks
Hi Ron Nice job! Ad that Titan looks a great system … currently unavailable on Amazon? and no European distribution as far as I can see … perhaps its only available in the US?
Working on it!
Nice
😎
What happens to the paint at the bottom of the doors? Don’t you have problems with it sticking to the drop cloth?
The doors didn't stick, but dust can be an issue as the sprayer will kick up anything on the cloth.
Is it humid on the day you sprayed? it really affectsthe paint
Florida is humid everyday😎
What needle set are you using with that paint and did you cut it.
#4 no thinning. I might try a small amount of water to thin next time.
The unseen hand compared to the seen hand
😎
you lost points on the first step, pouring that old can of paint directly into the cup, a 10 cent cone strainer should have been used.
What are the time stamps for when he stops talking about himself, and starts actually talking about the titan 115's performance?
Your film keeps flickering black frustrating
Anthony, the flicker is on your end. The video on my computer does't have any flicker and I watched it on YT with no flicker either. Hopefully if others are having the same issue they will comment.
Ok
@@TheSmartWoodshop I can confirm that there was no flicker when watching the TH-cam video on my computer.
This guy is either 55 or 70 years old. Nothing in between
opps! I am right in between.
@@TheSmartWoodshop I don’t believe you. There is some sorcery going on here and I’m not happy about it.