Guillows Cessna 180 How To Do the Tissue Covering
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ส.ค. 2024
- This video is a bit on the long side but I felt it warranted documenting all aspects of how to put tissue covering on a model plane. I've put chapter links below if you want to jump to a particular part of the process, thanks for watching. I've also made another video on the same subject that may be a bit more concise: • Tissueing A Model Aero... . Consider joining the Channel for extra perks, cheers.
0:00 Start
7:07 Tissue the side of the fuselage
7:56 Tissue the top of the fuselage
9:03 Tissue the fin
9:54 Wetting the tissue to shrink it, fuselage and fin
10:20 Tissue the wing
20:07 Fuselage tissue shrunk
20:50 Wetting the fuselage again
20:44 Tissue the tailplane
23:51 Fin tissue shrunk
26:19 Wetting the wing
30:37 Applying the Decals
32:45 Lacquering the wings, tail and fin
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It's a lot easier to use a spray bottle to wet the wings. I use an old perfume atomizer because it gives a more even spray and is a lot more controlable
Hi Marc, thanks for pointing this out, I do the same now, a light gentle misting is just as effective, cheers 👍
If only I could figure out how to make it work the same on human skin, I'd be a billionaire by next Christmas
I've tried dope Marc it didn't work 😂
Something new has just grabbed my interest. Rubber powered ornithopter. Search it up and have a look. I need to make one now to keep this disease alive😂
@marcanderson8669 They look pretty cool, I may indulge 👍
Oh, I see. Matt lacquer. Will have to look for that! Thanks!!!
Thanks Cliff. Sought out this video from your site. I bought a second hand Tomboy, with damaged fuselage tissue. I have copied your techniques and am very pleased with my first attempt. Still got finish but your expert teaching has made the project much less stressful. Thanks again!
Well done Len glad it helped but tissuing a model is supposed to be fun, I guess it's one of those things the more you practice more fun it becomes 🙂👍
Thankyou so much Cliff love watching your videos I enjoy the simplicity of what our hobby used to be about
Thanks Mike, it's so satisfying going back to simpler times, for me anyhow! Don't get me wrong I love living in the 'future' but kids today don't know that life used to be 'simple', by kids I include people up to 40 years old. Life is as complicated as you want to make it but it needn't be that way. These little planes are the ultimate in therapy 😁
Great video Cliff! Thanks for sharing your tips for tissue covering.
Thanks Osvaldo, it's good to share 👍🙂
I really enjoyed your video, I have built many models over the years, and I found myself saying "Why didn't I ever think of that?" a lot while looking at how you covered your model. Thanks for the tips!
Hi James, thank you, we never stop learning and evolving do we, I expect you do stuff that I would think the same 👍
Cliff thanks!!! Love your precision with the scalpel for tissue cutting.
You are so welcome!
im new to model plane making after a stroke and I'm about to cover my Keil craft Outlaw 600mm span 2foot in old money! great tips thank you so much. respect from a navy veteran in Suffolk England xx
Morning Geoff, great to hear from you, hopefully making a model aeroplane is great therapy. I had to laugh at the picture that popped into my mind when you said you were covering the plane in old money... tissue is better, lol. Any questions don't hesitate to ask, cheers
Great tips for my Dumas Tiger Moth I'm working on now, thank you!
Thanks James, I've never built a Dumas kit but balsa is balsa, enjoy 👍
Really nice informative video, its a long time since I have covered in tissue. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Mark, it's a lovely material to work with, real old school 😁
Great little plane.
Thanks Bob, she is pretty I must say 😊
thanks.that part always intimidated me
Take your time and work carefully, there's a knack to everything but it's not that tricky, you can always remove it and cut a new piece, I used to be a perfectionist but you never get anything done, besides it'll look good as it flies past perfect or not ... as long as there's no warps of course!
Nice build Cliff.
Thanks Darren
After watching you videos , and other peoples , I tried the glue sticks .
Absolutely the best thing to use for the initial stick down .. no wrinkly surface like when you use a wet glue . it is workable , you can move the tissue , even lift it .
glue sticks are to tissue as CA is to balsa .
Yes, they are a modellers friend for sure 👍
Tiger moth I mean. Nice video cliff
I am at this point with my model. It's a spitfire. This is my first time. this a very intimidating step.
Practice makes perfect Squirrel, if it's not going on as you hoped just strip it off and have another go 🙂
Hi Cliff. I have tissue covered loads of models but must admit I have never tried using a prit stick. I have one in my workshop. Must have a go.
I saw the idea on the Guillow's FB page, in the US you can get a blue one that dries clear, (I haven't look for this over here yet) this is even better of course because you can see where the glue is. I have to say though it makes the job a real pleasure. You probably noticed I don't use dope either.
Beautiful, as usual. Thanks. Don't worry about length, I enjoy watching. A trick I use: Trace an outline of the wing/tail parts and pin the vent spacers down so they are already set in place for the wet parts. If you get some time could you show how cut to shape colored tissue can be used for more complicated color schemes? I always get a mess.
Wow, thanks Irwin, never thought of pinning the spacers down as you describe in advance 👍 As for using tissue for more complicated colour schemes I have to admit that, because this is only my second tissue covered model in 40+ years, I haven't tried more advances techniques. However I'm thinking this is how I would do it. First shrink the tissue and seal it with whatever you use (dope, matt lacquer etc). Then I would cut the piece of tissue decoration out and place it on the model dry, then holding it in place fold one half back and carefully apply glue stick and stick it down. Then fold back the other half and apply the glue stick again and stick that down. Then put your finish over the top to seal it in. I don't see why that wouldn't work. 🙂
@@CliffHarveyRCPlanes That last sounds like a good idea. I will try it if ever I must.
I gave you a thumbs up for the time chronicle you listed. I subscribed because I will refer back from time to time and I’d like to see you in the vintage sopwith!
Hi Lee, thank you, well the Moth is 82 years old so I guess that could be called vintage, won't be till the Spring before the Hangar doors open though 👍
@@CliffHarveyRCPlanes I fly a 1946 aeronca chief I like slow n easy
@@leebrooke1831 Are we talking full size now Lee?
@@CliffHarveyRCPlanes yes,I fly full size and build models, I built the guillow model of the champ with some minor adaptations to the fuselage last year when i could not fly my chief . This spring I will return to the left seat of the chief
@@leebrooke1831 I've also spent a bit of time in the left seat, happy days, nothing as grand as your ship though 🙂
It answers a lot of questions I have to cover two Gullows models I have that I found in my to build boxes.
Pleased to help Kirk 👍
@@CliffHarveyRCPlanes Thank you for your detailed videos, Cliff
Hi Cliff, Great video on covering, I have learnt a lot thank you. I have flown RC and had a Lancaster free flight years ago.( never really got it trimmed properly )
Because of Covid I needed a little project to do, and looked at the rubber powered free flight glider type models on youtbe and they fly so beautifully. I have just ordered a model to build from Sussex model centre, it is a Mantua Lunik 3 rubber powered model. I'm trying to learn about trimming and CG. Regards Paul.
Glad you enjoyed it Paul, thanks for watching and have fun with the Lunik 👍
Hi Cliff, Thanks for your quick reply. Am I right in thinking you are using Matt Lacquer instead of doping the tissue? would a Halfords Matt Lacquer be OK to try? It seems easy to spray than using dope. Just going to watch your part 3. regards Paul.
@@plreeve That's right Paul, a very light mist, it doesn't shrink very much though, it was just to seal the pores of the tissue. I looked at Halfords Matt Lacquer but was put off by the cost 🤔
@@CliffHarveyRCPlanes Morning, thanks for your very informative range of videos. I am building my first model after a gap of around 65 years (F6F Hellcat). What lacquer would you recommend that is less costly than Halfords?
@@trevorgatley8866 Hi Trevor, 65 years ... wow! Good for you, the Halford's lacquer does seem a tad expensive, I bought three tins of matt lacquer from Ebay called Autotec (green and black aerosols), bit.ly/3zazvwf, that's three for £12.12 at the time of this comment.
Great job Cliff!!👍 The things you can do with tissue a, I never worry about the length of my videos as my average view duration is about 2 minutes and 30 seconds Lol😂 is that going to get the around the pole treatment I wonder🤔
Thanks Ian, that's why I put the click links in the description, it is an instructional video for those who haven't tried it before. No, this bird is for free flying (yeah right!) 😁
I still says this must take all the patience in the world, i probably don't have whats required. Great video! 👍
Honestly Jerry I don't think patients comes into it, it's just an escape into another World that's over all too quickly!
I dont have much patience either. Try it though, it will help you develop patience and attention to detail. After a while you will find yourself getting in to it. There is merit to building these models because it does that! RC planes these days are all about getting it to the flying part, these are different in that the fun is in the building. I use it as a relaxation type of activity. No right or wrong, what works for you.
Excellent video. What do you recommend to colour the model aircraft? I have just covered my rubber powered16in wingspan Guillow Hurricane with the supplied white tissue and water shrunk it. I have not doped it yet and am a quandary about how to colour it. I was thinking one coat of dope and a light spray of automotive spray can paint but I am now worried this would add too much weight. Cheers.
Hi Tom, make sure to thin the dope down before application, then if you can get hold of some coloured tissue cut pieces into any pattern you like and hold in place with a thinned down coat of pva-type white glue or thinned dope. It will look good just with one colour and it will be easier to apply. Whatever you decide you can always make up a test square of balsa, around 10cm (4in) square, tissue it, water spray it and try different finishes to see how they go on. If you tissue both sides of the squares you'll have two test areas, hope this helps.
Hi Cliff. So glad to find your channel. After a 50 year hiatus from building control line models I decided to get back into the hobby but with rubber band 'engines'. Soooo I picked up the Cessna 180 from the local hobby shop; the owner recommended I start with a simple model with straight forward instructions. Well, it was simple but certainly not straight forward but after a number of rebuilds I eventually kinda figured it out. Thank goodness I used Deluxe Super 'Phatic for the assembly as it was easy to cut through with a razor blade. The water misting went well, no warping. I just finished the doping and this is where things went terribly wrong. The owner suggested I use Eze Dope and it went on beautifully BUT in the tail, rudder, and few spots on the wings the upper and lower surfaces stuck together when they dried. I've tried several times to re-wet but with limited success. I should have used hair spray or something else. My question is: does it matter aeronoticaly (is that a word?) if the covering in 1 or 2 dime sized spots on the trailing edge of each with is stuck together or should I replaced the upper and lower panels? Because the coverings are so close together the tail fin is much worse. More than half are stuck together which has caused it to warp just a bit. I'm expecting to have to replace the whole tail.When I do will I need to scrape off the tissue that was glued onto the balsa?
Also, what did you use to glue the plastic cowl and windows? Sorry for the long winded post. Thanks and cheers.
Hi Frank, welcome back to the hobby. The stuck together areas won't make a lot of difference to the aerodynamics of the model. If you wanted to you could try removing the bottom panel and leave a little bit of tissue stuck to the inside of the top panel, it may not notice. Are the tail panels fitted to the model yet? If not you could try holding them in the steam of a boiling kettle or pan for a few seconds then weigh them down, this should remove any warps. If you remove the tissue you may be able to scrape off what's all ready on their, you won't know till you try. If it's stuck well it won't matter, it'll just add a little more weight at the wrong end? I use 'Formula 560 Canopy Glue' for windshields, it's an overnight cure but it tries reasonably clear. Thanks for the long winded post, any more questions just ask, cheers.
@@CliffHarveyRCPlanes Thank you for your advice Cliff. Being a perfectionist (in theory but not always in practice) I decided to remove the paper from the tail fin and recover it. It's now perfectly flat and ready for a coat of lacquer. I cut out the bad sections in the wings and redid the covering. They came out pretty good but in hindsight I should have removed all of the paper; I'm wondering how the already Eze Dope'd sections will react to the lacquer. We will find out. Your covering looks great whereas the Eze Dope has turned my paper translucent. Maybe I over did it? Apparently we can no longer get Formula 560 here in Canada so I purchased a tube of R/C Modellers Canopy Glue by Deluxe. It certainly does the job but has a long set time. For some of the windshield (or windscreen) the tape wouldn't hold so I supplemented the tape with weights. Anyone finding the model will be able to identify the builder from the fingerprints on the windshield. I'm going to look at this as a positive... This was a "get back in the saddle" project and I have most certainly learned/relearned a lot. I've picked up the Focke-Wulf 502 and Messerschmitt 505 kits to continue the process. In the wings (pun intended) is a Cessna 150 kit 309 that I just might try to build with an electric motor. Or not. Thanks again and cheers.
.
Hi Cliff good job my friend! I was planning cover my BoT with paper tissue, but had only in light green color wich I thought wasn't very appealing so I covered it with vinyl wrap in two colors white and yellow.
But you're absolutely right when you say that's marvelous to see going from just a hallow frame to a solid piece!!
Hi Carlos, thanks, what a great hobby this is 🙂
@@CliffHarveyRCPlanes indeed... I've boxed it waiting for sunny days, as it is so fragile that anyone in the house could damage it? My one weights about 700gr ready to fly how about yours?
@@Flight72Well it's only 20in span so it's only light Carlos, 40g!
@@CliffHarveyRCPlanes 😁 sorry i didn't express myself clearly... I meant how much weight your Bird of Time!
@@Flight72 I've never weighed it Carlos, it feels heavy when I launch it, certainly much heavier than yours, maybe double that!
I'm in the middle of my first build, about ready to cover the frame. Is it necessary to pin the parts to dry while shrinking the tissue? Thanks for the great video with helpful tips. I'm sure they've prevented me from making many beginner mistakes.
Hi Jason, yes, otherwise that's when the warps can creep in 👍
Hi Cliff, really appreciate video it is indeed most helpful. However I see that you plane was finished with out have the propeller yet attached... how did you install the rubber band and and propeller when the plane is all closed up. Hmmm!
Hi Carroll, check out this video: th-cam.com/video/38zEjp1p29U/w-d-xo.html 👍
I’ve built 3 of these Guillows planes. None will fly because too heavy. Perhaps with an electric motor. But I have one of these 180 models in the box that I want to do next and build it to fly. Always use dope, but Im switching to lacquer after watching your video. Nice technique, very neat job which I love. Also I usually mist water on the tissue. Is there a difference in the outcome?
As long as the tissue is moistened in some manner it will shrink a bit, make sure to weigh it down while it dries Jabbia. Go very lightly on the lacquer it will shrink a little but the object is to just seal the pores against moisture
Hi cliff about to start covering my Guillows spitfire can you use gloss lacquer also what paint do you reccomend? Can you use household emulsion ?
Hi Andy, you can use household emulsion but you're need to water it down somewhat, I guess you can use gloss lacquer although I've never tried it. Use the minimum amount of extra paint to try to keep weight down. I would recommend to make up a test panel and try your finish on that first. 👍
We used to use "Silkspan" instead of tissue, much stronger and looks better and way more durable.
I think silkspan may have been a bit on the heavy side for this lightweight structure but happy memories 👍
Hi Cliff, at 18:18, you commented about not applying glue to the trailing edge of the wing, but I couldn’t quite make it out, and I don’t see if you did or not. Could you clarify exactly if/where I should apply glue?
Hi Pat, what I was talking about was applying glue between the ribs on the top surface of the wing, the tissue will be stuck below the surface of the aerofoil and spoil the look, cheers. 👍
@@CliffHarveyRCPlanes thanks. That helps.
Love it Cliff. Is there a reason a person picks tissue versus vinyl? I assume it is weight but when do you use one over the other?
Great question Kevin, tissue is simply more attractive to me, it is of course traditional as well being the only thing available 'back in the day'! As you may know I used vinyl on my Guillow's Chipmunk but that was silver and looks really stunning. The biggest drawback with tissue of course is it punctures easily. 🙂
@@CliffHarveyRCPlanes Ah ok thanks. I used Monocote on my Fokker DR-1 because the red looked really good. Unfortunately that was before I saw any of your videos and ended up with a warped tail as I shrunk each side separately. I am hoping I can strip it off and maybe wet the wood to flatten it back out so I can cover it better. Thanks for the tips!
That should work ok Kev, balsa's quite flexible when it's damp.
Hi Cliff, do you use acrylic clearcoat for the model, and is it possible to also use a colored acrylic spray paint? greetings from the Netherlands
Yes, a couple of very light coats if you're planning on flying the model. Regarding your question on coloured acrylic the best idea is to make up a little test square of tissue and try it out, just go very lightly because it will add weight 👍
@@CliffHarveyRCPlanes Thank you
Hi Cliff - great video. I’m about to build the Aeronca Champ and I’m wondering about the lacquer used. Can you give some information Cheers
Hi Colin, it's called Auto Tec Matt Lacquer which I bought off of Ebay in the UK, it's the cheapest I could find actually, it sprays well, dries well and tightens the tissue but don't be heavy handed with it, a couple of very light coats will do the job, cheers. Freeze frame at 36:13 for a glimpse of the tin.
Gr8 video. Is it a special type of tissue paper?
The tissue in model kits is better than tissue you'd find in a hobby store but if you're careful it's usable 🤔👍
I'm just starting out in this hobby. Is there a particular type of glue stick (chemistry) you must use to adhere tissue on wood, or can you use any, say those sold in stationery stores?
Hi LRG, the ordinary stationary ones are ok, if you can get a blue one you can see how thick the glue is as you apply it, it dries clear. You only need to apply glue around the outer edge. If you mess up pull the tissue off and put another piece on, try and get it reasonably tight as you go 👍
@@CliffHarveyRCPlanes Thanks for the tip!
I reside in Vancouver, Canada, btw.
Great--what plane are you covering??
It's the Guillow's Cessna 180 Phil
Do you have a guillows spirit of saint louis video?
Hi Dylan, no I've not built that one 👍
I live in the USA... Can you tell me where I can get good paint for a Cessna 170 model. Appreciate it, thanks.
Hi again Carroll, as I live in the UK no, not really. I can tell you if it's a static model then weight isn't an issue but if it's flying then it is. Of course it also depends on the size of the model, if it's small like this one then paint isn't a good idea at all as it add to much weight, far better to go with coloured tissue (see my Focke Wulf video th-cam.com/video/munlpFhv118/w-d-xo.html jump to 16:08). A good tip is to join any Facebook group for the make of plane you've built and ask there, pick a group with a lot of subscribers. 👍
Is there a way to Modge Podge instead of Eze Dope? I have soooooo many bottles of that here at the house but no Dope. If I can, do I water it down?
Hi Marian, I've heard of Mod Podge but it's not available in the UK, from what I've read it's a good all round glue and a sort of varnish. I guess you could water it down to apply tissue but as for shrinking tissue probably not. However if the model is just for display and you get the tissue tight when you apply it I don't see why it wouldn't work watered down. My advice would be to make a small frame of scrap balsa and tissue it, you then have the perfect test bed to experiment on. If you tissue both sides you have two test beds in one. Hope this helps 👍
@@CliffHarveyRCPlanes thank you ever so much! All great advice.
Oh and thank you for your great TH-cam videos. I have learned many things from watching them.
@@12carnations That's the idea Marian, if it can help a little then it's job done, we never stop learning of course, take care.
Can you use the tissue from a dollar store? In Canada the Eze dope 250ml bottle $52.00 Cdn. Is there an alternative solution without the fumes? Thank you for your help!!!
Hi Chris, tissue from a dollar store can be used with care I believe. I don't know of a fumeless alternative to Eze dope, as you can see I don't use dope much anyway, but even spray lacquer has a smell, I wouldn't use it indoors if the missus was home 😁 That's three times the price of the UK as well 😯. If you search Facebook for rubber powered planes you'll find loads of groups who may be able to answer your questions more in depth 👍
@@CliffHarveyRCPlanes Thank you Cliff. Yes, we must keep the Missus happy! My wife is British. From Shipley, England. ;-)
@@chrissorlie6497 That's a 300 mile drive, I'm down in the South West where it's a lot warmer, does she have a Midlands accent?
where do you get your tissue from?
Hi Quinlan, this tissue was what was in the kit actually, I do have a stash that I bought many years ago from my local model shop but it is obtainable online from various outlets depending where you are in the World.
You need to pay attention to the tissue grain orientation.
Thank you David for pointing this out, it wasn't until I had the slight problem on the wing leading edge that I remembered about tissue grain ... also too late for this build! I've just checked with the left-over piece and, of course, the grain is going front to back not lengthwise as it should! It's something I had completely forgotten about it's been such a long time since I used tissue.
Cliff...were you using UHU glue stick? If so, is it a water based glue? I've never used any UHU products. I feel tempted to buy some "UHU POR" for styrofoam (because I have to work with Adams Redi board and tissue paper so my planes can weigh less than 250 grams (thanks FAA :P). I don't want to build an "unmanned aerial vehichle". I just want to play with my toy airplane!!
Oh!...Cliff...don't forget to put some right thrust in there! Love ya brother!
Cheers,
William
I'm not sure what I used there William, on later builds I used a blue stick that dries clear. Uhu Por is a great glue, you can use it as a glue or a contact-type glue, and take it apart again using natpher (lighter fluid) if you need to. One other thing worth mentioning is try any glue stick to buy on a dummy frame to test it through the processes you plan on doing 🤔👍
Is that glue stick better than others? I'm currently struggling with the glue stick method.
Hi MK, the glue stick I've used since is blue when you apply it and dries clear, the benefit is you can see exactly where you've applied the glue and how much, what problems are you having?
@@CliffHarveyRCPlanes Hi Cliff. I'm not getting much sticking. I'll go over the area with the glue stick once, sometimes twice, and then when I apply the tissue it doesn't stick much. Brushing on a little isopropyl helps a little, but I have more areas that are difficult to stick down than those that do stick. The whole covering part is very stressful, which is a shame because I enjoy the building a lot. Currently working on a Guillow's Javelin, but I also ordered a Bird Dog which I see that you built. -Mike
That seems very odd Mike! It's almost as if there's some sort of contaminants on the balsa wood, did you sand the whole structure first? Maybe not enough of the glue stick is going on, I think I would try a different glue stick possibly a blue one. The covering should be an enjoyable experience, stick with it, it will get easier 👍
@@CliffHarveyRCPlanes Okay, maybe I'm not sanding it enough. I'll keep trying. Thanks, Cliff.
Fantastic Cliff, is covering with Ultracoat and others the same process as what you did with the tissue? You're very inspiring Cliff, thank you, Jeff in LA USA
Hi Jeff, yes, I would say there's a crossover in technique, the way you would just tack it first then complete the outline. In fact, as you know, I follow several different disciplines and the crossovers are quite significant, if you do one then you can do half of another without any trouble 🙂
Hey cliff could you use hair spray?
The lacquer does shrink it a little as it dries, I'm not sure if hair spray would do the same thing Matt, it's not something I keep in the cupboard 😁 The best thing to do with any experimenting is to make up a square of balsa and finish it in different products and see what happens 👍
Do i put a layer of eze dope after i put on the tissue?
Hi Ricco, I've not used Eze Dope personally but I believe you need to thin it down quite a bit otherwise it'll be too heavy to fly. Give the tissue a light misting of water first and let it dry, this will pre-shrink the tissue 👍
@@CliffHarveyRCPlanes do you just use ordinary glue stick to glue the tissue on?
@@RCAirplane907
You can yes but if you can get one that's blue when you apply it (it dries clear), it shows you how much you've put on and any missed areas. If in doubt make a balsa test square and experiment 👍
@@CliffHarveyRCPlanes Thank you i was scared to put on the tissue for a couple of weeks after i built the balasa part of the plane
No is that just regular glue stick or is that a special glue stick
The one in this video Paul is a regular but I moved onto the blue ones, the benefits are you can see how much you've applied and it goes clear when it dries, cheers.
is this the cessna you talked about?
No actually, I'd forgotten about that one, I was talking about the Mininum RC Cessna 🤔👍
@@CliffHarveyRCPlanes ah ok 👍
Have you tried baking paper?
Can't say I have Matt, does it work?
Does the lacquer protect the decals?
Hi Morco, yes, I also used the matt lacquer to slightly shrink and seal the tissue, then apply the decals, then another very light coat of lacquer to seal them in 👍
@@CliffHarveyRCPlanes Can you spray the lacquer on top of a doped surface?
@MORCOPOLO0817 Possibly but it would have to be a very thin coat because you don't know how it would react with the dope. If you make up a test square, tissue and dope it and once dry give it a spray with lacquer (matt) and see what happens, that'll tell you if your dope and lacquer is going to react and also show you how much, or how little, you can spray 👍
@@CliffHarveyRCPlanes Thanks
"There it is guys"??? Hey, Cliff, my name is Francine and I am most definitely not a "guy". Currently on the Guillow Sopwith Camel. I'll give it to my "guy" for Valentine's Day. I don't do sock puppets or paper Santas, eh? Cheerio from Canada.
Hi Francine, thanks for your comment, I do have several gals who subscribe and I have tried addressing viewers as 'guys and gals' but I keep slipping back into old habits 🤔 I've tried 'folks' as well but the old habit returns. I am, of course, talking to both sexes but I understand where you're coming from, perhaps I should try and say 'gals' instead of 'guys' 🙂 How's the Camel coming along? Your guy is a very lucky man 👍
@@CliffHarveyRCPlanes Hi, Cliff. Well, on a scale of A-E I'd give Guillows a D for the Camel. It's the worst of theirs I've tried. The stamping is atrocious - haven't met a single rib or stringer which met the spar correctly. It's hand measure and hand cut for every notch in the whole kit. The instructions for certain critical functions is lamentable. Luckily, I found a good site on TH-cam (aren't they all?) Vacuum formed parts are more terrible than usual. You may be interested in this: we have a small apt in a huge city - not much room for 28" models. So, I make one half, L or R, only and mount them to canvas stretched on a wood frame and hang them on the wall. You'd be surprised how cool they look! Please take care in these scary times, and the best of the season. Francine. 👀
@@francinetress7354 So it's not a laser cut cut kit then Francine, sounds like you're being tested on this one, I'm sure you'll make a good show of it though. On your canvas mount models do you include the whole (half) wing or just a short stub?
@@CliffHarveyRCPlanes Hi, Cliff. no, the full wing - the stub wouldn't attract me. Most of them stick out about a foot from the wall (we're mighty short on frames full of Granmas 💕) and you don't seem to miss the other half. In fact, it's pretty unique. I'm a detail freak so there are wires and rivets everywhere. I would never buy a Guillows again unless it was laser cut. Nothing here fits in any dimension. You have no idea. Cheers again, my friend. Francine
very cool! checkout my video of my trixter beam build. getting ready to start a bellanca cruisemaster!
Checked it out, looks gorgeous.