Did The Previous Owner LIE About Rebuilding This MOPAR V8?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ก.ย. 2024
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Stay tuned for the entire build series to get this thing back to life!
Several months back, @ScannerDanner reached out to me regarding the 1972 413 Wedge that he has in his 1978 Dodge Power Wagon... his initial diagnosis indicated a failed flat tappet lifter. According to the previous owner, the engine had been recently (within the last 10 years) rebuilt, but Paul had his suspicions that might not have been the case...
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Hi , when the previous person milled the heads 100 thousand , did he put 100 thousand shorter pushrods in to compensate for the milling of the heads ???
History of this 413 for the community:
This is a 72 413 Wedge out of a motorhome that was dropped into a 1978 Dodge Power Wagon (an unfinished 9 year project). I picked it up in Dec of 2021 and finished it. The original owner claimed a full rebuild on this engine including a steel crank and .030 pistons as well as a mild cam. When I finished (suspension work, glass, exhaust etc) the truck ran great! I have videos of me playing around in it on my channel. But after 3-4k miles, it wiped a cam lobe and lifter! I've since learned how poorly the cams and flat tappet lifter are made these days and how important zinc is in the oil! I decided to pull the engine and do further inspections instead of just replacing the cam and man am I glad I did! I pulled a few bearing caps (main and rod) and and then the heads and I did not like what I saw. I'm now in over my head! I'm an electronics and electrical guy and this has been my focus for 30 years! The last time I rebuilt an engine was when I was in tech school over 30 years ago! I do not have the know-how, nor the machines to be able to do the work that I feel is needed. So I started searching for local machine shops that can help me. Two of them flat turned me down! The rest of them are all closed up and out of business. This is a dying breed for sure. This is how I ran into JAMSI, my searches ended up showing me content from this father and son duo and I loved them right off the bat! My son and I do the same thing, working together and creating content. But it was more about what they were doing and showing that gave me the confidence that these guys know what they are doing and on a prayer, I reached out to see if they were interested in taking on this job, and much to my surprise, here we are! I feel like a kid in a candy store where mom says "get whatever you want"! I'm giving JAMSI full reign to do as they please, with the goal of a choppy cam that will play along nicely to a ZZ Top song when they're done.
you hit upon a great team for your engine
we love the mentoring done by The Cleaning Guy
I thought this might be your engine?
I like some cam sound, but I'm not a big fan of chop for it's own sake. Given the proliferation of Thumper, Rattler, Bootlegger and Sloppy Stage whatever grinds I guess I'm swimming against the tide.😁
From what I've seen around some run Shell Rotella in the older flat tappet engines. Amsoil's Z-Rod line of oils could be another option. There are separate ZDDP additives available as well. For the set up you want I would look for oil having zinc content of 1500 ppm or higher to run in it. The flat tappet issues started when we got an influx of made in China flat tappets mixed with the drop in ZDDP content in oil. Good to see your engine on here and to follow along with the rebuild.
it's a conglomeration of issues with flat tappets, soft lifter, improperly setup grinding wheels, improper heat treat, low quality iron, poor break in, and oil's that don't really meet the lubrication needs. Stick a roller in it. I have pulled tons of those engines apart over the years, I can't say how old that rebuild was, but that motor certainly wasn't stock and had definitely been rebuilt at some point. 20 under mains, etc. My advice, buy a stroker kit, put in a roller cam, slap some trick flow heads on it, go have fun till the cows come home. If you sonic check the block, most 413 blocks can goto the 4.250 bore of the 426 and with a stroker crank, you can easily get above 500ci and with trick flow heads a mild hydrualic roller cam, you will have a TQ monster. IIRC 440 source has nice stroker kits.
As an old school Mopar fanatic, I will be following this series intently. Working smarter, not harder, is a sign of wisdom. Your back will thank you for it in 30 years.
I was thinking the same thing. Nothing to apologize at all.
But i think your back shouldnt hurt at all in fact they should be strong and healthy if you use correct technique of putting strain on your muscles and not ligaments, just my opinion.
@@sran9492True but as we all age our muscles do degrade no matter how much we work out and it takes much longer to see the improvements. Most people when we were younger were strong and did things the wrong way which actually hurt them because when you're young you think you're invincible lol and you end up doing things that hurt you down the road . With me it is Arthritis now at 61 years old that's affected my whole body hands neck knees elbows feet and trying to work on my trucks or the muscle cars me and a friend work on at the shop makes it much more difficult to do now than when I was in my 40s . My friend has the same problems as me and he is actually in worse condition than I'm in & he's almost 10 years younger than I am but after all the years of abusing our bodies like we did it actually tore our bodies down and hurt them to a point that the body can't repair itself anymore in some instances. I used to race motocross years ago as well which probably didn't help because it's very hard on your body and with the suspensions used on the motocross bikes of the mid 70s your body got beat up pretty bad at times . The bikes had great power but lacked on suspension and handling big time compared to these new motocross bikes that and most tracks now are man made tracks that don't have big rocks and parts of tree trunks laying on the tracks that we had to look for while racing or mud holes to deal with at high speeds. The bikes got much nicer but the tracks are much easier than they used to be to race on because not much motocross is done outdoors now and is mostly done in doors . All I can say is it sucks getting old but wish I had the wisdom I have now when I was younger because maybe the outcome of how beat up my body is now could have partially prevented this because genetics does play a part in this as well.
Most if not all will say nothing wrong it’s all in your head.
In reality all of these folks are first class liars.
Paint in the oil pan makes me question the "rebuiders" level of competence.
Perfect example of why not to paint the inside of an engine incorrectly
Or, ya know, to not paint it at all
sounds like an amateur to me, because anyone with any knowledge of rebuilding an engine would tell you that you never paint the inside of the engine/oil pan
Right? I was like what the hell is this?
😅😅😅... what fool paints the inside of an engine and calls it rebuilt? Paint can rebuilt..
I wished I would have listened to you over 50 years ago about using the electric winch I've had 7 back surgeries so your very smart
Keep the great videos coming
Paul sent me
Much love for helping my brother out
He has done so much for others it’s nice to see something being done for him
God bless & Happy holidays
@ScannerDanner I was late to comment, but when do to think someone painted the inside of the oil pan, I'm in my 70's and have never seen that before.
John deere uses glycol coating from the factory on there engine blocks, that's the only place I've seen it,, I was told they do that to seal up there castings from porosity
Thats glyptol, not glycol
From the info presented that engine is a 413 with factory dished pistons , standard bore with .001" oversized rod /or main bearings . If the casting # is 2120529 it is a truck , if the casting # is 22205697 it is a passenger , there is one more which is 2468030 I don't have the application for . If it is a motorhome it should have a roller timing chain , heavy duty oil pump , heavy duty water pump , low compression pistons and small valve heads sometimes. thhey are made to run on cheap gas , low horsepower with big torque . Hopes this helps !
Spot on- all of the hardware present for a great foundation to build on and run strong and dependably for years.👍🏻
I'm not going to bother looking back to check for sure, but I think the water pump housing looked silver, which I believe makes it an aluminum(MP) water pump housing. Before pulling the heads apart, you should have checked to see if all the valve stem tips are all the same height. If not, then the head rebuilder is an amateur. Because the pushrod was bent makes me think there may have been a stuck valve, or low oil pressure, incorrect lifter preload, or poor assembly protocol. The decking the heads could have caused problems with preload, too. The machine shop guy admitted he doesn't do many mopars. This is your first red flag warning!
A couple of things. That 413HD engine used a totally different head that had closed chambers, that's why you see those deep dishes in the FACTORY pistons. Combined with those '452, late model heads that engine probably had 7:1 compression or less. New pistons needed! The factory pistons you'd see used with those heads were flat top and about 0.150" down the hole on a 440. That engine (413HD) came from the factory with the same forged crankshaft as a 440, no problems there. It also came with a 3-bolt camshaft and double-roller chain so no surprises there. Go shopping for 413 pistons before you do anything else! Measure those chambers and see if they're still 88cc, you might need high compression 413 pistons just to get to 9:1.
As Derek from VGG says, rattlecan overhaul.
Here are a few things about Mopar big blocks that may help you. That crank looks like a cast crank (forged has a wide parting line), all big block cranks after 1972 were cast.
When installing the rocker arms, lay a tig welding rod across the top of the towers that the rocker arm shafts bolt to, so that the pushrods are held out a little ways from their normal resting place. This will allow you to install the rocker arm shaft so that all the pushrods will fit into all the rocker arm cups at the same time without fighting to get them all in place at once. Then just pull the welding rod out once they are in place.
Installing the rear main seal can be a challenge because the side pieces won't slide all the way down when you tap the rear main seal holder into place. Offset the side pieces so that they stick about 1/2 to 3/4 inch below the mating face of the rear main seal holder, then tap the rear main seal holder into place. If you get it right, the side seals will end up all the way down at the block face just as the rear main seal holder gets to the block face. You may have to do this more than once to get the side seals all the way down to the block face. A lot of people are tempted to just cut off the excess, this will cause a large oil leak.
If you are forced to use cork gaskets for the valve cover gaskets, you have to be careful how you install them. Invert the valve covers and reverse peen the bolt holes, these will usually be warped a fair amount downwards. Use a straight edge and make sure that the valve cover gasket face isn't warped like a banana. During your install, silicone both faces of the cork gasket and then snug the valve cover bolts so that they just contact the valve cover - finger tight ONLY. If you tighten it any more than finger tight/contact, you will split the gasket or push it out of place. You may think I'm being overly cautious about this amount of force, but I am not. I used to have to replace these A LOT, I know what I am talking about.
Make sure you get ALL the debris out of the oil pickup, the design of the pickup has a tendency to retain a lot of small particles. You may have to pry the sheet metal of the pickup up a bit so you can root around in there in order to get everything out of it.
Based on the factory style steel shim head gaskets, paint in the oil pan and overspray on the windage tray, id wager they did a rattle can rebuild, cam and thats about it.
10 dollars worth of spray paint
Reused the old lifters and smoked the cam too.
Those pistons are not TRW units. The intake manifold is more for mid to high rpm use. The damaged #4 main bearing and rough chamfer of the lube port is another concern... That bearing feeds oil to the upper end rocker shafts to both heads... They might be clogged with metal shavings that came off of the #4 main bearing... Yes this engine needs to be gone through by somebody who KNOWS what they are doing... Jami was a good choice to go to, for straightening this mess out...
I bought a 350 sbc years ago that the owner said was recently rebuilt. Thankfully I checked it over befire installing it, ended up actually rebuilding it myself and making it a 383.
Anyone can write "rebuilt engine" in an ad. They're not going to let you pull the heads before you buy it. Besides, I've installed (poorly) rebuilt engines that ended up being worse that the ones I've taken out.
@@allenhanford
That would be irritating & I’m being polite
This is why a cranking vacuum test is a must to purchase. In 40 plus years of professional automotive I've saved customers n myself from buying lies or junk thousands of times.
And so much easier and faster than doing a compression test!
@@wallacegrommet9343 What amazes me is how few people actually know about or how to perform a cranking vacuum test. Much less how much more information it can give you over a compression or any other test. I see diagnostic guys like the dude he's doing this engine for perform relative compression tests using an amp clamp but I've never seen him do a cranking vacuum and Dan is one of the few on TH-cam I respect as a technician.
AWESOME!!!! I Love it when my favorite people come together to get stuff done. Paul Danner is in good hands with these two Craftsman and I know that he will be very happy that he came across Jim's Automotive Machine Shop. Thanks so much for bringing us along guys !!!!
I definitely feel like I am! I believe when it is done, I am going to make the trip from Pittsburgh Pa to Colorado just so I can meet them and shake their hands.
I grew up under a father that owned an engine, rebuilding shop, and getting things perfectly clean, was one of many serious goals that could never be compromised. When I saw paint inside the engine, I thought perhaps that contributed to the failure.
In the past I was a collector and restorer of antique gas engines. Now that is an absolutely huge sentence that you first read, mostly I was a collector and later on in my endeavor I did restore but you would be stunned at what people say a restored engine is. A friend of mine owned a company that “restored antique gas engines“ and let me assure you that there were times that there were 10 or $20,000 invested in some of those engines and sometimes even more than that. I owned an Otto engine and there were no replacement pistons available in the world that I knew of. It took me off and on working on this one year to get the piston out of the cylinder. When you send a cylinder out and have an 8 inch bored cylinder sleeved, you are spending some righteous bucks . Chances are they stuck a cam in it and fibbed about the rest of it.
really enjoy your work - just a few things I see
- heads not '72 truck / industrial heads - exhaust configuration
- could be newer 440 truck heads but look like normal heads (thin)
- casting numbers help, truck heads 361/413/440 thicker/heavier
- head gaskets on trucks flow different - coolant through the intake
- bearings should be full groove
- #4 main feeds the lifter gallery and rockers
- rocker shafts have to be installed left / right for correct oil flow
- aftermarket aluminium water manifold has poor internal flow may cause overheating
looking forward to your follow-ups on this
One of the videos that pops up in my Facebook often and on here is an engine builder. He said recently there's been essentially a pandemic in and of itself with newly produced lifters being poor quality and failing.
ScannerDanner sent me! I will be looking for the updates! It should be a great series!
im sure you will but make sure you balance the rotating assembly. Paul is a good man treat him good and everyone will know the quality machine shop you appear to be. pistons looked like motorhome dish top. i think the casting on heads were i think i saw 452 not bad but much better out there.
I enjoy both channels, as if working on cars all day isn't enough. But, When you combine Jim's Automotive and ScannerDanner you're gonna have one well running machine!
We called those "rattle can rebuilds" in the 70s. Cam and a couple of cans of paint. Work like that is why Texas passed laws requiring shops to turn old parts over to the vehicle owner.
Scanner Danner sent me over , I am looking forward to following this series . Vice Grip Garage thinks rebuilds come in a rattle can .
Hi all long time viewer of Paul's channel. Last time I went that deep into an engine was a 67 Firebird 327 engine rounded 3 lobes on a cam. The funniest thing on that build. I was torqueing the head bolts. I remember dad saying you can't snap a head bolt as I heard the dreaded ping and felt it snap. Good new it snapped off high enough that vice grips removed the broken bolt. 🤣🤣🤣
Bet this is a truck or camper/Rv engine with a cam swap and a rattle can rebuild. The truck and rv engines had the dished pistons factory with low compression. Probably why heads were milled try to get some more comp. Can by the flat top pistons for them 413 but little pricey. Good video can't wait till the next!
Look forward to seeing the rebuild! I'm a big SD fan and look forward to learning more about your channel!
Love your videos. I can hear your breathing it’s just like mine take care of yourself so you can be around to lead your son or daughter down this path too. God bless
That Lunati Voodoo 262/268 cam is a nice piece. Had one in a 327 sbc. If the customer wants one that talks a bit more, the 268/276 is a nice piece also.
very surprised that they milled the heads for compression and never pulled pistons to change out to a non dished style, especially since the pistons look like they have tons of room to the deck of the block.
Suggest that the oil filter be cut open to see what it looks like.
Automotive oil filters have a bypass built into the oil filter. If enough paint plugged the filer it will start passing unfiltered oil giving the opportunity for damage.
Why...it's toast.. rebuild it and send it.
Let the owner know it's rebuilt. Here are the specs. Nuff said
Someone put newer 452 heads on that, made for unleaded gas. I ported the 452 heads on my '75 400 using the Direct Connection template kit.
So it was fresh heads and a cam so it was "rebuilt".
Fun to see the tear down process and inspection of what’s wrong with engine components. That engine would be a nice fit for that vehicle!
I've so LITTLE experience except Engines 101 in 1980. Back then they said engine overhaul goes to a dedicated machine shop. Therefore, I'm grateful to actually see one thru your vids. ✔️✔️
THX for promoting math/science. S.T.E.M. as it were is CRITICAL. Online education is superior to classrooms because you can rewind/backup/redo if you missed something... and everbody's mind goes blank on occasion so rewinding is PERFECT!
B T W -- back in 1980 it was offered that a well rebuilt engine is BETTER than new. That after running, engines adapt into their final shape which yields superior machining ability compared to new and "green" blocks.
Came over to this channel from ScannerDanner to watch his engine get built. Engine machine shops are becoming harder and harder to come buy. We live in a disposable world these days. As a Dodge who building a big block Dart this will be interesting.
I'm a little dad and son engine shop in toronto and the number of "rebuilt" motors i end up rebuilding is incredible. I just delivered a 350 to a customer and took his supposedly rebuilt core, he paid 50 thousand for a truck with a supposedly rebuilt crate engine, when i took the head off it's still got rust in the water jackets. If you're buying a car, buy the car, never buy the story unless you can see evidence, receipts or the guy who did the work.
Awsome vid thanks. Love these teardowns
Ive got one in my Duster with a 230°@.050" with .480" lift it runs 12.30's they can run pretty hard.
Love the channel always great content and really love you get to do a big block mopar great engines God bless
That chamfer looks like it was done with a dull drill bit
the paint in the oil pickup is definitely suspect.
The suspect is the hillbilly who painted the inside of the engine. Used a countersink bit for chamfer the oil passages. Ran the truck with out breaking in the cam.
And that's where there needs to be a little more communication if it was a true top to bottom rebound of the engine or if it was just. Putting in a new cam.
Smelling around broken things can be useful. May look funny sometimes but putting a screwdriver handle to the ear can be useful too.
I just got rid of a 413 block yesterday. I was going to bore it to 4.250 and use ross 383 pistons with a different piston height to use 440 rods in the 413. What are your plans for pistons?
hopefully you got a good core , needs some roller action and EFI upgrades
I just found this off to watch the second video I have a 413 short block that does have 30 over pistons but they are dished like yours. I have been looking for flat tops with no luck. engine is going to require a complete tear down, because it has been sitting outside with no cover.
Save your back as much as you can using a hoist as you’ll be happier when you’re older
Never take someone who is selling their vehicle at face value. They will lie about everything.
Scannerdanner says hello! Looks like it was a Craigslist rebuild. Love your shop!!
Thanks for sharing and Merry Christmas to you and your whole family 😅
That piston looks very clean on top compared to the others, and the rust in there also may have coolant getting in
Definitely could be some steam cleaning happening there.
No coolant loss issues. I believe this rust was simply because it sat in an old barn for years and was only started on occasion
@@ScannerDannermy 318 ski boat had water sitting in the bores and has rust damage. I got g the heads redone and replaced the head gaskets and sent it. It barely burns oil and the spare block I have may never be used. Mopars are tough
With those dished pistons and open chamber heads there couldn't have been much compression. Add in a cam with more overlap and you have a dog for sure. Looking at the head gaskets and having torn down more than my share of BB Mopar engines, it looks like the heads may have never been off the engine. It's not uncommon to find low mileage motor home engines.
Been around engines my whole life. 30 years in dealerships. I think that may be the first time I’ve seen paint INSIDE an oil pan. 😂
I used to have a '68 Buick Gran Sport 350 California model that I bought at a car auction. The engine was pretty clapped out. I pulled the heads off and sent them for a valve regrind job because of a burnt exhaust valve due to the passenger side cylinder bank exhaust manifold had one of those temperature controlled butterfly valves in it which seized shut. Several of the hydraulic lifters had holes worn in them. That was back in my late teens and I couldn't afford new lifters so I reinstalled the lifters and cranked down on the rocker arm pushrod adjusters to take the clack out but not too much as to lower the engine rpm. And kept driving it
You can see the chamfer on the oil passage on the crank is rough in the video!
Chamfered by a store bought bit. Used for countersinking.
It was a rattle can - cold snack- Pott County rebuild. Straight off of Craigslist.
Paul sent me to check the rebuild out. Looks like the last guy just sprayed it with a rattle can while saying the words rebuilding over and over.. 🤣🤣
I always use Rust-Oleum on the inside of my oil pan rebuilds to keep the cylinders clean
Rebuild may have been a dingleball hone on a drill, new gaskets, cam, and a decked head
"Rebuilt". Like the ads you see that say "brand new, runs great, just needs the following parts..."
Us "old guys" remember the Beach Boys' song "Shut it down" ... "the Stingray is light and she's startin' to spin but the 413's really diggin' in". LOL
Atleast it looks like a decent starter block
Great episode!!! I particularly like how You described the known failures and the things that could have possibly caused those failutes... Those Pistons are standard size slugs, with interference fit pins, which leads me to believe that they are likely stock units that came with this engine... Decent quality parts but they are probably NOT TRW/Speed Pro/ Sealed Power forged or Hyper- Eutectic pistons.... Most likely , they are MOPAR stock units.... The crank seems to look very nice.... Coming from a motor home, I'm wondering if this is an industrial grade engine...The heads seem to have enlarged coolant passageways . If the exhaust valve spring retainers are the rotating types, and it has hardened exhaust seats and stellite exhaust valves, then it is probably an industrial (Heavy Duty) engine that can handle extended Periods of WFO, with a 600-625 cfm carb. and an Edelbrock 'Performer' intake manifold, with a dual plane, split plenum & longer runners.... That 'Torker' intake & headers are better suited for a high rpm engine, which is negating the known advantages of the 413's : Low to mid range torque...It would be very cool if this engine could be dyno tuned to accomadate a 600-625 CFM carb. to produce maximum reliability & efficiency....
Craigslist to English dictionary:
“Project” = it’s broken
“Been sitting” = been broken
“Ran when parked” = broke a long time ago
“Lots of new parts!” = (yeah that’s what it will need to run again)
“Redone” = I cleaned it
“Fully redone” = was spray-painted too
“Rebuilt” = new head gasket
“Built” = eBay kit
“Fully built” = deluxe eBay kit
“Blueprinted” = I used calipers and decided it wasn’t worth owning
“Lots of life in it” = basically a grenade with the pin pulled
If you still have his contact info, send the "builder" a link to this video! Painting the inside of an oil pan? That's a new one!
Lucky all the paint chips plug the oil pickup enough cut the oil volume down are she would of been a smoker with all the rust pitting in the cylinders. Reminds me of the use car lot putting sawdust in the crankcase, back in the day. The rod oil gallery on the crank looks it was chamfered with a drill bit.
Without pics, machine shop receipts, parts receipts, and proven qualifications of the builder, it never happened.
I really want to see this rebuild Some of these motors had one horse per inch factory clam and i worked for Chrysler around that time and there were that would Sharer the bolts off at the Torque Converter and I had to fix a few of these where that happened and this could be a Mess
this will be interesting to see what your thoughts are
Thank You
Coming to this channel from ScannerDanner.
Ooooooh been waiting!
Looks like those lifters were re-used on a new cam, and wore out. Plus all that paint abrasion did not help either (who paints the inside of an oil pan?). Interesting that the pistons were dished (valve clearance?, or perhaps OEM pistons being from 72, a low compression engine?). The 383, and 440's I have done (from 68-72) all had flat-top pistons. All that valve train assembly looked OEM to me as well FYI. I suspect this was a stock motor with only the cam and timing chain replaced (rebuilt!🤣).
Cheers!
I watch both channels. You both are excellent at what you do. I learn a lot, thank you. Your channels, skills and communication styles are very refreshing, especially in a day and age where people seem to know less and less.
I’m ready for part two
I just wonder why the dude put that cam in it but didn't install roller lifters. They just tend to be better for most if not all applications but are a bit more pricey than flat tappet.
good luck using Lunati, try Erson or howards . Or Bullet. Trash the shorty headers and use stock exhaust Manifolds for same power. or get a set of TTI
Well I’ve been working on Mopar’s all my life. You made a comment at the end that is was a 413 , I think that was a error on your part because Chrysler quit making 413 around 1963. It looks like this is a low compression 440 and around 1978 was the last year. They had around a 8 to 1 compression ratio. You have a factory cast crankshaft with the wide damper which distinguishes it as a cast crankshaft and externally balanced. Those are most likely factory deep dish pistons and you have open chamber heads . If they thought that by milling the heads to increase compression ratio they are stupid.
You will never get enough of the heads to significantly raise the compression ratio at all especially with deep dish pistons and open chamber heads. This is a great example of someone that doesn’t know anything about Mopar’s with a stupid idea., in my opinion and experience. Now with the camshaft and valve train assembly and none adjustable lifters when you shave the heads and possible cutting of the spring seats , bigger spec cam you totally throw off the factory valve stem hight . To put it bluntly you don’t know where you are on valve adjustment. They could of been to tight on that lobe. Then the main oil feed for the camshaft comes off the front of the motor and the 4th main and rocker arms takes their oiling off the oil passages in the block at the 4th main. Then you add in all the paint debris in the oil pickup screen that is all the way at the back of the block farthest away from the oil pump on the truck installation versus the car that have a mid center oil pan sump that goes back years ; that then has to pump the oil back to the rear of the block you have a big oil starvation problem. This all adds up to somebody in my opinion didn’t know what they where doing. And the big question is how did all that paint get inside the engine-??. Now a after thought about that front dampener . It could be the wrong one or the right one. It’s been a long time but I think those big block engines with the cast crankshaft used a wide dampener that had a tapper to them on the front and the straight squared off dampener was characteristic of the big rod 440’s used in the Super B’s , Super Birds and Dodge Daytona’s that had the monster connecting rods that required external balancing. But I think it’s the factory dampener and why would you change out the dampener when doing a camshaft swap out.
Mr. Mopar, you have some incorrect information. While the 413 was replaced by the 426 in passenger cars, it continued in truck and industrial applications all the way to the end of RB production. In fact I believe the very last RB engine built on the line at Trenton in September of 1978 was a 413.
Look closely at the crankshaft.
Hilarious user name, for so much misinformation regurgitating.
i can clearly see its a forged crank. the heavy truck/industrials used that weird wide damper which is different than the late cast crank 440 wide damper. you are correct.@@v8packard
Probably the "best" rebuild possible ... ie: Rattle Can
Correct me if I'm wrong but the most "common" rebuilt engines use a very special device to perform the rebuild. The devices make a special noise known world wide. A lil Rattle rattle and pss pss
Cleaning guy must be on vacation lol
Keep up the great videos
refresh maybe but rebuilt I think not . I would ditch those dish pistons and go flat top to up the compression . cast crank
The pistons look like stock 413 truck/industrial pistons, judging the size of the dish. I’m betting there was no rebuild, just took off the industrial heads(*) and water pump to put on car/pickup style heads and water pump, plus the cam. The bearings are definitely Chrysler stock.
(*) the very lightest duty industrial 413s actually used the car/pickup type heads and water pump so that’s also a possibility. I’m calling it an “industrial” 413 because technically there were no automotive 413s after 1966 when the 440 replaced it in cars and pickups, but the 413 (and 361) stayed in production for busses, trucks, and industrial applications until 1975.
Came from scanner danner channel 👍
thats a stock 413 rv motor stock bore those ar original bearings the pistons are stock 20cc if i recall corectly dish. punch it 30 it thats enough to clean it up. put flattop pistons in it, 047 cometic head gaskets, another mild street truck cam as long as you get the right pushrod length and springs it will wake right up and live a long life. crank should be a forged unit rods are hit and miss. if it still has 913 heads on it just freshen them up they breath well out to about 5k.
413 crank should interchange with the 426 hemi. The crank might be worth more than the entire engine.
I am doing a build of a 72 400 big block right now myself! Can you go into doing camshaft intallation/timing with this one? Having some issues there with mine, it is acting like it is advanced (wont quite start, sputters and seems to blow back up through the carb a tiny bit) but timing gears show its installed straight up. Hope to see a video from some experts on a very similar engine that can sort me out over here in Central Oregon. Keep up the good work yall!
Step 1. Measure the distance your spark will jump from the ignition coil. It should be able to jump at least 3/4 of an inch gap.
@@ScannerDannerfollowed your whole video on the no spark/start for this truck actually. Went online and snagged the flowchart and everything, turned out that the aftermarket cam was incorrectly timed! Put in stock cam, rechecked everything and it fired off right away!
Scanner Danner? Never heard of him :)
All good. I always smelled all my engines.
Vice grip garage has a particular interpretation of what "rebuilding" means... mostly involving a rattle can.
Classic Rustoleum rebuild job here.
Have you ever done a Mazda skyactiv engine build?😊
Why paint any internal surface or part?
You guys should reach out to paul from fabrats and fix that big block chevy motor they keep having problems with!!!!!!
Stupid question, why does anyone run flat tappet when roller is available? Is there some actual advantage still or is it just nostalgia?
413's are hard to get parts for now. It's by far easier to build it as a 426 anymore.
scanner danner brought me here❤
A rebuild means a can of spray paint..lol
Where is this shop
Where is the line between “reseal” and “rebuild” and “remanufacture?”
I can't agree with your assessment of the cam failure. More than one lobe should have failed with your explanation.
I grew up in high school auto shop and the race track during the 80s and I've seen about 50 cam swaps in older engines. There was never a failure as long as one used the cam lube and broke the cam in (2000+ rpm for 20 minutes).
Poor machining of lifters appears to be the causing a lot of grief combined with low zinc oils.
Frankly, considering the current state of the engine rebuild industry, I'm finding that paying a few hundred bucks for a junkyard motor and just dropping it in is a lot better deal.