Your first TOOLS - Affordable Blacksmithing part 2
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 พ.ค. 2024
- Setting up your first blacksmith shop doesn't have to break the bank. last week we looked at some budget friendly tool including a single burner propane forge and small anvil from Vevor. In todays part 2 video, I want to look at a few more tools you might want to get started as a blacksmith and then make your first tools, a punch, chisel and bolster.
00:00 - Intro
00:29 - Cheap hacksaw blades
01:13 - Wolf jaw tongs
02:45 - Safety concerns
05:09 - Making your first tools
14:07 - Bolster
18:03 - Additional thoughts
Basic blacksmithing Tool list:
From Vevor use code: VVPRO
Propane Forge, Single Burner: s.vevor.com/bfQevk
Propane Forge, Double Burne: s.vevor.com/bfQevr
30kg Acciaio anvil: s.vevor.com/bfQaz1
4 1/2" vise: s.vevor.com/bfQh8D
From Blacksmith Supply use code: bear5
Hammer: www.blacksmithsupply.com/Forg...
Tongs: www.blacksmithsupply.com/Wolf...
Other supplies found online or locally
Hacksaw frame
Hacksaw blades 18tpi
8" - 10" half round file with handle
Propane cylinder 20lb or larger with propane
3/8" hot rolled mild steel 40 feet (usually sold in 20 foot lengths)
Blacksmith Supply: www.blacksmithsupply.com/
Use discount code "bear5"
Combat Abrasives - bit.ly/3r73P8d
Use code "Blackbear10" for a discount on your next order
Anvil provided by; Fontanini Anvil
www.stevefontaniniblacksmith.com
Precut blanks for forging available from:
www.blacksmithingblanks.com
use coupon code John at checkout.
My blacksmiths apron
www.Forge-Aprons.com use code BBF
Music sourced through Epidemic sound
www.epidemicsound.com/referra...
Become a Patron - / blackbearforge
Donate - www.paypal.me/BlackBearForge
Shop - www.blackbearforge.etsy.com
Web site - www.blackbearforge.com
Instagram - / blackbearfo. .
FaceBook - / john.blackbe. .
John Switzer channel - / johnswitzer
Some of my most used gear*
Canon EOS R6 Mirrorless Camera - adorama.rfvk.net/b3yZ7v
Canon EOS R Mirrorless Camera - adorama.rfvk.net/J50gq
Canon RF 24-70mm f/2.8 L Lens - adorama.rfvk.net/6bb7yV
Canon RF 15-35mm f/2.8 L Lens - adorama.rfvk.net/rneRoG
Sony ZV1 point and shoot camera - adorama.rfvk.net/BXKMkJ
Rode Wireless Go microphone - adorama.rfvk.net/YggLRm
Deity V Mic D3 pro - adorama.rfvk.net/mxO51
Insta360 One X2 - www.insta360.com/sal/one_x2?i...
Insta360 Go2 - www.insta360.com/sal/go_2?ins...
Autel Evo II pro drone - auteldrones.com/?ref=HUB40s11...
Autel Evo Nano+ drone - auteldrones.com/?ref=HUB40s11...
*Links include affiliate links
Mailing address:
Black Bear Forge
P.O. Box 4
Beulah, CO 81023
Below you will find useful links that will help you in your journey as a blacksmith.
To find more information in blacksmithing in the US or to search for your local ABANA affiliate group visit.
www.abana.org/
Blacksmithing tools and supplies
Self contained air hammers - www.saymakhammers.com/
General blacksmithing supplies - www.oleoacresfarriersupply.com/
General blacksmithing supplies - www.piehtoolco.com/
General blacksmithing supplies - www.centaurforge.com/
General blacksmithing supplies - www.blacksmithsdepot.com/
General blacksmithing supplies - www.blacksmithsupply.com/
Square head bolts and lags - www.blacksmithbolt.com/
New anvils - www.oldworldanvils.com/
New anvils - www.nimbaanvils.com/
New anvils -
Industrial supplier - www.mcmaster.com
Tong blanks and tools - kensironstore.com/
Fire brick and refractory - refwest.com
Blacksmithing and related activities can be hazardous. These videos are not a substitute for competent professional instruction. Your safety is your sole responsibility. Always use appropriate safety equipment including eye and ear protection when working in the shop. Follow manufactures safety guidelines for the use of all equipment. In the event something shown in one of these videos seems unsafe, it is up to you to make the appropriate changes to protect yourself.t yourself.
I started watching Blackbear Forge videos 4 years ago when I set out to start forging. I started with the basic setup you see in this video. I started making hooks and other simple projects. Now I have a Bridgeport mill, hydraulic press, multiple anvils and much more. My projects range from hooks, axes, warhammers, hammers, knives and much more. Just stick with it and listen to John he’s a good teacher! Lol
Did you pay for it all with things you were making or do you have a source of income you funneled into the hobby?
@@norcalbowhunter3264 it was a combination of the two. I caught some auctions and added equipment over time.
I wish i could do it but i would have to do an apprenticeship for 3 to 4 years so i can be a certified smith and also get money from it
Do a welding or fitting and turning apprenticeship. Do smithing as a hobby
Don't be afraid of learning the skill folks. All you can do is practice and it becomes easier. I made tongs, punches, and chisels for a few months piddling few hours after work. Then I started making hammers. After that i made hundreds of hammers and quit my job for an enjoyable few years of self sustaining livelihood.
And ofc all sorts of decorative stuff
Always enjoy your videos John thanks for posting i likes this new series. You are helping a lot of possible blacksmiths godbless and be well.
How much would a 1cm x 1cm square steel bar cost that is 62cm in lenght? I made one as those fireplace "ahjuroob" in estonian language.
Gave it a leaf shaped tail end for the handle (kind of like a sword guard at the front) and cut squares around the handle into these blocks that I then twisted to look like some animal horn?
Love this series!!! You are breaking down barriers for a lot of people that want to get into blacksmithing. I have heard many times..."I want to start blacksmithing, but I can't afford an anvil".
Glad you're enjoying it.
For me it was the forge. Once I found one I could afford the rest was easy. I'm in about $700 at this point and no end in sight, and all I really want to make are knives and small art projects.
I'm another beginner that's been learning from your videos for years. I've always admired and been grateful for your focus on teaching skills that don't require special tools. I love this new series, and while I'm growing beyond what you're teaching now, I applaud you for continuing to focus on beginners.
On the topic of gloves, I've settled on a setup where I have a hot mill glove on my tong hand (left) and I tape my index finger and thumb with sports tape. I'm not in the shop every day, so the tape really helps cut down on blisters that make my day job more difficult and might keep me out of the shop. The glove on my tong hand helps with radiant heat when I'm holding a top tool and it helps to cushion the vibrations in the tongs or, especially, when I'm holding the end of a long work piece.
Been doing this for 9 years - still a fun series to watch!
This is amazing, I personally learn best when someone breaks down and shows even the small stuff. I feel like I could start from the beginning and work beside you. Thank you 😊
I was a mechanic in the military and I can vouch for the glove detail. We only wear gloves when there is a pinching hazard.
Thanks for putting together these videos (and the rest of them). I've finally scraped prioritized thworing cash at starting my own small home forge. Was at a blacksmithing course over a weekend some weeks back, and I'm hooked. In a month's time, I'm getting my own forge, tongues and hammers, and I'm off running. From now until that time, I'm gonna have to get myself something resembling an anvil.
Thanks for the inspiration, and the clear(!) instructions.
For those of you wanting to start out: A local blacksmithing course is the way to go. You meet with others in the environment, and learn whether this is for you. Blacksmithing looks easy, and the fundamentals are. Hit hot metal with hammer. It really doesn't take much out of you to get started. However! Getting them looking the same every time is hard. The blisters will be there, and the work can be physically draining for those of us sitting behind a keyboard all day. The veterans make it look so easy, and with time and practice, so will we.
Looking forwards to continue binge-watching your videos over the next months as I'm getting started with my own blacksmithing journey.
Much love from Norway.
This is a great series! I can't tell you how many people ask how to get into forging. I have little to no answers as a novice myself, so I revert to your channel now.
It's great to see that you're already working in this new space and I have great expectations for when the coal forge is installed. Only the experience of a lot of work provides the empathy to teach in an objective and accessible way and that you own very well. Thank you very much!
As an OSH representative in my workplace, I was impressed by your explanation of what to wear, when to wear it and why you need it. Well done.
I like to hot rasp my round tapers. I anchor the piece on the anvil or on a vise, anything that will prevent the piece from moving against the rasp. Spin and rasp, spin and rasp. I usually use H13 and I can make round punches without grinding. Cool video, John. Thank you!
Thanks, that is what I was wondering on the tool steel. I have seen other videos showing it in use on mild steel. Do you use a file or just a rasp?
Starting small is still a start. Really enjoying the “budget-friendly basics for beginners” videos. A good measuring tool for a beginner to get acquainted with is a set of dividers, they’re pretty cheap at Harbor Freight.
I’d be curious to see if some cheap neodymium magnets stuck to the underside of that anvil would help with the ring.
Another excellent video sir.
Dividers aren't too different from tongs also, but they're a lot smaller so a lot less to draw out but still the same skills to learn for shaping the boss, punching/drifting a hole, riveting, etc. Would be a good beginner project for sure.
I've been forging for 15+ yrs and still come to John to learn ,love your videos Brother great teacher
I love this series on setting up shop. You’re a great instructor and wonderful resource. You really drill down into the nitty gritty. I mean, what boots do you wear? Seriously down and dirty on the details. Love this and I don’t even want to be a blacksmith.
Thank you so much for doing this! I am an apprentice bladesmith and am setting up my home forge slowly. Your videos are very helpful, but this new series is absolutely perfect for someone like me who is just starting.
I didn't think I'd find this so soon, I'm currently interested in blacksmithing once I buy land, thanks for the videos ✌
Whereabouts? Southwestern Virginia here... have spare land and all equipment except for power hammer/press, but need funds to build the building to use as a shop. I'd gladly sell an acre or work out a deal, if you're interested in a rural life with extremely low property taxes and cost of living.
@@stevealford230 Id take you up on that offer
John you are a plethora of knowledge thank you for sharing everything that you do share and hope to see more projects from you soon
I just watched your videos on the bloomery iron from several years ago. my grandfathers method was to go from blume to crucible. He liked to use green glass from broken beer bottles. We recovered iron from the peet in the licking river bottoms in Kentucky.
Love this content John!! Thank you! This is the main style of my forge setup and thrills me to see you going this route for us! Been a fan and follower of yours for a while now- please keep it coming!
Glad you're enjoying it.
Just finished my first lesson in Blacksmithing here at my local historical society and came across your video. Great work, thanks for thinking of us beginners!!
I want to learn how to blacksmith bc I have a small homestead. I want to start producing my own nails, hinges, hangers and anything else I can think of to save myself a little money. I’m not interested in selling anything but I definitely want to get good enough to produce better quality items that I would have to buy anyway.
Coil spring can be straightened using a temporary brick and charcoal fourge. Heat up, put on a vertical rod and pull an end. Videos on TH-cam.
Temporary fourge is a great tip for heat treatment of log stuff. I just use clay house bricks and clay mud from my water hole
Great series = John, have watched you for a log long time but I am still enjoying this series. Once again, Thank You!
The Lenox hack saw, is wonderful as a basic tool. Thanks 🙏 for the tong recommendation! I made a set when I was a kid. They are a big project for a novice. I still really love ❤️ riveting. Copper rivets are fun!
Just some pointers as a tool and die maker:
1. there are blades for a hacksaw that will cut hardened steel, i usually use the Sandvik ones. Its slower than a grinder of course, but its cheaper, and you don't have to worry about sparks or drawing a tools temper.
2: Make sure that your vise is as steady as possible, every little bit of rocking is wasted energy on your part
It's coming along nicely so far John. Can't wait to see more videos soon. Keep up the great craftsmanship and hard work my friend. Forge On. Fab On. Weld On. Keep forge lit. Keep making. God bless.
Hello John . I use an old car speaker magnet to dull that ear numbing ring and it doesn't magnetize the anvil .
Love this series, never too old to learn new things! Picked up a decent vise today at my local salvage yard. Just needed cleaned up. Old vise broke at the base.
I really ought to follow along while I can, and rebuild the skills again that I’ve lost.
By the way, excellent and versatile so far. And that one brief pause you took reminded me of just how far you’ve come with your delivery and talking to the camera, it’s inspiring
I watch all of your videos, and I learn something new with each one. I strive to learn everyday, and I appreciate this content. Please keep up the good work John, you have been an inspiration for me over a year since I've started!
Great video John, I use S7 in my farrier practice a lot. It's a great tool steel, I can modify it out in the field without having to go through the quenching and tempering process.
Do you just use it as hardened then? I usually temper out of habit, but maybe it's not required.
@@BlackBearForge I've always let it air cool or let the end cool off in a bucket of ash and never have had an issue with it. I just always make sure the end I am pounding on is very rounded. Generally it's the pritchels that break because the ends are so small and used so hard. That's a quick fix though - just heat them up, fix them and move on!
Thank you John.
Great practical information. Thanks!!
Every time you hit the heated steel for the first time in your video it's like this huge release 😂😂
Another great video!
I'm loving the series! I always appreciate the videos.
Love the series and what you do!
Really love this series! Very helpful! Thanks John!!!
Hi John, I just want to say that I think you are one of a handful of "maker" TH-camrs who are excellent presenters. I have to believe that you are or were in a teaching field. You presentation and language skills are excellent. Although my interests are quite varied and smithing is not my primary inteterest, your ability to convey ideas, concepts and operations keep me coming back! Thank you!
Thank you sir for this series.
Hello John
Thank you for this wonderfull series.
For beginners it is the best they can get.
Thank you for sharing your Skills.
Yours Frank Galetzka
Another excellent video! Thank you!
Fantastic information John. Thanks for walking through the process.
As usual awesome video .
Great series John, Thank you for sharing your great experience in Blacksmithing.
Great video, John.
Good point on the New China files. New files in general are not very good. I buy all the old files I can find at state sales and yard sales. For a while hammers were everywhere, till I got all of them. I built my forge from a paint can, refractory cement, good black iron pipe from Lowes for the propane burner. Grill brushes from yard sales do great for brushing hot steel. I'd like a bigger forge but that is for down the road. I can make knives and wrenches with what I have.
Nice series, looking forward to see were it goes!
Hi John you are a master of your craft
Love these videos they will help me a lot with ideas on what to make, Thank you so much!!
Just started on my setup, good timing to find this
Thank you very much for your time and patience
Great video for folks just getting in to the craft. Best way to get better is to just do, everyone is a beginner at one point!
Glad you enjoyed it
thanks john!
ank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.🙂🙂
Dude, you are awesome, I've learned a considerable amount from and really enjoy your videos. Thank you.
Thank you!
Thank you so much for taking your time to do this. I bought a n inexpensive forge a while back and nd played some, but this gives me a great direction to start. Going to build a roof to keep things dry and keep following your lead.
Tools are the best first projects. It's been a while since I tuned in. Great to see you going back to basics👍
Thank you very much to show blacksmithing is within reach!
I want to send this guy money he’s showing us all this information and I just can’t thank him enough
I appreciate the thought. Donations are welcome, links in video description
Bless you Sir!
great video , I have been setting up my forge for a year now ( attempting I should say ) all of your videos are very informative . Thanks for all of the teachings and info . TC
Earplugs with earprotection is the best. And oversized leather welding gloves are good.
Great video as always John! Im sure its been said before but a strong magnet under the square horn on these Vevor anvils really cuts back on the ringing
You're such a good teacher!
Thank you
I recently got an antique knife that was made out of a some sort of bandsaw blade
thanks for sharing interesting video
I put a magnet under the trail of my Accaio anvil. It almost completely removed the ring.
If you need anvil attachments. grab old trailer hitch balls. You have to grid down the screw part some. 30 min to a hour of work depending on your skill with a grinder. I'm using an old train rail plate as an anvil. I grid it to fit. From their so many ways you can go about shaping it to your needs. Grid and file or forge it. Even new balls are 1/3-1/8 the price of anvil attachment.
When I was first starting, I just used magical happy steel (Atlantic 33) for all of my tools. It's a simple water quench, it moves relatively easily, and the self-tempering means that I don't really have to worry about heat treating it correctly or accidentally overheating it while I'm working it. Only issue is that I don't think it comes in anything smaller than 3/4" square or 3/4" octagonal bar, so it would be a lot more forging it down even if you kept the body of the tool at the size of the stock (like I did for my first punch) but I feel like the simplicity of the heat treat and lack of tempering makes up for that to an extent. Still, you have to learn to heat treat properly at some point if you're going to be a blacksmith.
I was planning on using the Atlantic 33 in this series, but all my usual sources were out of the 3/4". Plus the 1/2" S7, that was readily available, fit in the same pair of tings, so there wasn't a need to by more than one pair.
@@BlackBearForge yeah that makes sense, glad I stocked up on it although Coal Iron Works has some right now. The second pair of tongs I ever made were to fit the 3/4" flutagon. I keep a little piece of it in my tool bag too for the frequent times that I need to make a tool that I don't have.
Thanks!
And thank you
Morning there loving this stuff I'm very much past this but going watch every one cause it's still very helpful ❤ I can't wait to get to how to weld when you haven't glue it's was the one thing I never learnt doing my smithing corse I was told back then steel wasn't good for forge welding and wasn't overly worry about it as I can use a modern welder and own one and use it to be welding on my blacksmith projects but now I'm finding that forge welding is a way more important skill then had been told it was now I'm struggling to learn it on my own
Forge welding is one of those skills that is easier to learn with someone coaching. But I do have quite a few videos on the subject, this one might be a good place t start. th-cam.com/video/j814AqiKVvE/w-d-xo.html Its an older video, but still good information
@@BlackBearForge thanks I will watch i probbly already have watched it I think getting the heat right is what's making it hard but I have remade my forge now so heat shouldn't be a issues next time I'm going give it a try
What a great series.Thanks for taking the time to put it together!
Just stumbled on this, John. It seems like the perfect series for me. I have a strange affinity for numbered instructional videos, the longer the better. I'm going to go back to the beginning and watch both of them. Thanks for this. Oh, and one question. I know you're keeping this affordable, which is great, but why is the bench your vise is mounted on so janky?
Its temporary built out of scrap to keep it affordable.
These videos are a great service. I’ve been forging for 5 years now. For the first year I only practiced tapers. I’ve added to my tooling and built a belt sander, a forging press, and three ribbon burner forges.
I am picking up info from these videos.
One thing I have never seen explained is what is the shape of the cutting end of a punch look like?
Sharp edged? Beveled? Rounded? Is the face of the cutting end flat? Rightly rounded or even concave?
A punch usually has a flat end with crisp corners as it transitions from the flat end to sides of the punch
Stick a couple magnets on that ting ting anvil..😵💫... Brilliant series.
Great video, as always.
I know most know this.
But I was watching the hacksaw cut the round stock. Some of the energy in the stroke of the saw is used up because the vice was not mounted to a rigid surface
It's not a big deal for a few cuts, but many cuts add up fast.
As the little shop improves that will be disused, The point I'm trying to make at this point is that you can get by with some low cost make due and temporary setups
making a pair of togs to start with , you make them to suite you
have you ever thought about making a flintlock barrel? i think it would be a fun challenge and interesting to see
Watching you make tools from scratch is my weekend guilty pleasure 😁 out of curiosity, can you make files yourself? I've always been curious how they got made without already having a file on hand..?
File making was a very specialized trade. All cut by hand with a chisel. Its not something I have ever tried.
I think Clickspring might have done a video on hand making files back during his Antikythera mechanism series.
Edit:
Yep here it is:
th-cam.com/video/SOw9WqMOHjA/w-d-xo.html
@@Vikingwerk Thank you for the link!
even if all you have is a hacksaw you can get creative. make a campfire and put it in it or toss it in your burn barrel. might help lose the temper so you can get through it
I'd like to put a ball end on my tong reins, do you know of any videos that teach that? Thanks for sharing all your knowledge, if you like I'll send you some photos of my attempts
I always enjoy your videos. I learn a lot even if I'm not blacksmithing. On the coil spring material, is it air hardening as well so that I need to keep it hot when forging it like with the S7?
Most coil springs should be oil hardening.
John could you spend a few seconds showing and telling about that steel tripod table you made for your vice? Thanks!
I'll try to cover that, it isn't anything great.
@@BlackBearForge thanks John 😊
Great idea for a series of videos. My only critique is that for the cost of that file and hacksaw and blade, you could just about buy an angle grinder and some cutoff wheels and a grinding wheel. Harbor freight has an ok one for about $25.
At first I thought the file and hacksaw would last longer, but it doesn't sound like that's the case, from what you said in this video.
They just don't make things like they used to. Unless we do it ourselves.
While I agree that an angle grinder is a great tool, I also think people should become comfortable with a hacksaw and files. Plus, not everyone will be working where they have power available and the cordless tools are more expensive.
Thank you very-very much for starting this project! It is an excellent source for someone like me, who is trying to learn a few things. :-) As a side note: perhaps, something you may want to check: your links to hammer and tongs seem broken. Thank you again!!
Thanks for the heads up, they should work now
I would say buy tongs or trade for some from a local blacksmith.
How did it miss this
KaTom sells the short bristle block brushes for about $11. That's the best price I've managed to find on them
Why don't you wear your own t-shirts to advertise them to us John . And if they are not cotton, can you order them as such. Love what you are putting out there for our young viewers, you always do a great job in teaching the new students.
it's a job to buy s7 around here. i used coil springs. would coil springs be good to make axe drifts i need a small one and a middle size one. this is a awesome series have a great day
The material would be very good, its just a matter of finding it in large enough diameters for that type of drift.
When you are filing, say the punch, what are you looking for to file, to roundness?
Roundness (if its a round punch) and flattening the end so there is a sharp transition from end to the side of the punch
i've been wondering if there's a specific name for those saftey glasses style, the oversized frame with the side/temple guards. Those are super effective I really like em
I'll try to remember to ask next time I'm at the opticians office. I have been hunting for the right thing to use prescription lenses for years . This is the first pair that really works the way I wanted.
For the punches, is it best to leave the sides round towards the struck end? Or would shaping it into an octagon or something be a good idea?
Either is fine
When you make a punch, is the intention to generally drive it through until you get to the parent diameter of the punch, or do you sort of just drive in the taper until you get a hole you think is the right size?
Generally the working end is the desired hole size. But you can enlarge the hole by drifting in some cases and even use the punch as a drift at times. At this stage we ar just punching a small hole for a crew and don't need to worry about the drifting part.
101 forget the hacksaw. Buy an angle grinder. Thin blades and flap disks. Whire brush, and polish disks I use most.
I like to have a 4 and 5 inch great combination with compact controllable one and a more heavy duty version with a bigger cut, also saves time changing disks.
Great tips on the gloves i only where if its getting hot, and to protect from samder sometimes.
I agree on the angle grinder. But it was outside the $500 budget set for getting started. Besides, everyone should be comfortable with a hacksaw.
John, I don't know how you could stand to punch on that hot, thick steel plate with no gloves on your holding hand!!!! Mine would have blistered first time around. You be one tough guy!!!🙄
What are you tapering your 1/2” punch down to? Also for hot work what kind of bevel should the chisel have?
I made the punch about 1/4" I've never actually checked the chisel angle, just forged and ground by eye.