You're a great teacher. As soon as I had the question of "What happens if that little ferrule at the end comes off inside that can?" popped into my head I hear you say "If I pulled on this with a pair of pliers, the cable would break before that popped off." Amazing intuitive sense for relaying information and answering our questions preemptively.
I used to use one of these in a few spots in the APU bay of a Bombardier CRJ - sometimes it's the only way to do the lockwire without being a wizard or putting 6 hours on the task card. They're handy, but I found the bulkiness of the ratcheting mechanism meant they didn't always fit. The one I used had replaceable noses so you could sneak it into harder to reach places, but every once in a while the engineers come up with a spot that is truly magical.
20 years of working on B-52s and KC-135s and I got to where I did most safety wiring by hand, no pliers. Attended an A&P school and one of the projects we had to complete was a board with all kinds of fittings and connectors that had to be hand safetyed. I turned mine in and the instructor accused me of using safety wire pliers. I had to have three people tell him I did it by hand before he believed me. Even made me do it in front of him. I told him I safetyed about 50 times a day on aircraft before he gave me a pass.
F-16 Avionics here, depending on area or time I'd use hands or pliers, Mechanics knot too. AP school didn't care, I only had to learn how to secure a turnbuckle but that's in the AC43. Major difference in Civilian aircraft is the halfmoon vs direct wiring in the AF.
I used to work for the company that makes the lube oil tank for the PW-100 engine. The tank has a sight glass to check the oil level. It has 8 bolts holding it in. They used to lock wire them in place, but could never consistently get the direction, twists, and termination of the wire correct. Lots of rework, lots of escapes. The guys doing the wiring hated it. The guys inspecting it hated it. Switching to the safety cable made assembly faster, and better quality. As long as the tool functions correctly, safety cable is more than worth it for a manufacturer.
Your lockwire video is the one that got me started watching your channel. As tedious as that particular task seems to be, its essential role in the safety of the engine and ultimately the aircraft and those flying in it was immediately obvious from the outset. And from there I was hooked. And I don't imagine for one hot second I'm anything close to even a beginner in the area of this craft, your videos have enabled an understanding of jet engine function function that I had never before been exposed to. It's been a fascinating education, free of charge, and I thank you. As to the safety cable, it's clearly a huge time saver despite the initially very expensive outlay for the tools and materials. It's not hard to understand why this method would be preferred over manual lock wiring. Having watched many of your videos it's clear you have a craftsman's approach to this skill that is borne of years of experience and that you view manual lockwiring as a mandatory skill that each engine mechanic must master in the course of mastering the entire craft of aircraft engine maintenance. That's a lot of words that you may likely shorten to "You *have to* know this." I could well be wrong since I can't speak for you. If I am, no doubt you will tell me. Meanwhile, I'll continue to learn as long as you continue to teach.
Ive had the DMC cable gun for a few months and I love it. When looking through our aircrafts standard practices manual I noticed that the manufacturer allowed the use of cable as a substitute. I ordered the gun and cable that day.
I work Avionics/Electrical on Blackhawks and Chinooks,Safety cable is a real time saver. Some of the Cannon plugs outer retaining ringnuts and Coax connectors are in horrible places no clearance at all. At 4:00 Snipe Nose pliers are what those are called. That's what the manufacturer of the ones I have call them lol. Love your videos always learning!
The tools are made by Daniels Manufacturing Corporation, come in a variety of sizes, both cable diameters and different nose piece lengths (that's the metal rod that protrudes out from the handle mechanism, that the cable threads through at it's tip). Yes, yours has been modified to remove the cable tensioner. Yours looks like one of the older models that had the wheel-type tensioner (which most mechanics prefer); the newer ones have an internal tensioner, and the cable threads through the hand grip portion; on those, squeezing the handle also applies the tension before swaging the ferrule and then cutting the cable. The tensioners are adjustable, as there is a spec for the correct tension, and the nose pieces are replaceable, as they wear after extended use (several thousand uses); the swaged ferrule ends up getting mashed into the nose piece and it gets hard to remove from the finished cable. Dabbing the tip of the nose piece in a little engine oil helps extend the life of the nose piece. There is a calibration block that's used to verify both the tension and the effectiveness of the swaged end. The cable block is about 10 inches long, and has instructions printed on it. It's meant to be attached to a bench. One side has a fixed post that the cable is threaded through, and on the opposite side is another post, on a crank with a 3/8" square ratchet drive for an indicating torque wrench (dial-type preferred). The cable is run through the test block and a ferrule swaged in place in the regular manner. Finger pressure is applied in the middle of the swaged cable to ensure proper tension; if it's too loose, the cable gun's tensioner requires adjustment. The dial-indicating torque wrench is attached, and the amount of torque necessary to cause the swaged cable to fail is noted. Generally with a properly-swaged ferrule, the cable will break before the ferrule pulls loose, but as long as the ferrule holds under the required torque for that size cable, the cable gun passes and is ready for use (the required torque is listed in the instructions printed on the calibration block). The cost of the safety cable tools and the cables and ferrules are easily offset by how much faster safety cabling is than safety wiring. On a full engine teardown and rebuild, you can easily save 40 labor hours or more on, say, a CFM56-type engine. Daniels Manufacturing even makes pneumatic- and rechargeable battery-poweeed cable guns, mostly for assembly line type applications. There are also additional pieces to allow for safety cable to wrap around a part vs. go through a drilled hole, and fiberglass sleeves that can be placed over the cable during installation to prevent chafing on a sharp corner. An additional advantage of cable vs. wire is that with safety cable, there's no chance of getting caught or cut on an improperly pig-tailed cut end, like is all too common with safety wire.
This tool is not made by DMC. I think I heard from one of your company's reps years ago about how great your tools were. I said send me one and I'll demo it in a vid. I never got a reply. The tools we use are made by Bergen, and they work extremely well.
Proper tools always make the job easier, faster, and safer/last longer. Not quite your level but the difference between $5 crimpers you get with a 60 pack of solderless crimp connectors, and the $80 ratcheting tool is noticeable when you do more than 1 or 2 of them. As for wanting to work for you, have to admit it'd be cool for a while, then winter in Fort St John would set in ... Would rather beg for a visit when the test cell is active and I'm up there on work. 🙂
At the end of your video, you talk about the hierarchy to get where you’re going.. when I was 18, I wanted to work in a race car machine shop. They started me on sweeping the floors, then cleaning and painting blocks.. eventually I got into valve guides.. like you said, one step at a time. The highest level was eventually assembling the engines, which was the easiest part! The boss had a friend who was frequently unemployed, and since he was a moron, he would allow him to skip the machining and go straight to assembly.. he couldn’t “feel” the machines honing, milling, boring ect..
Old motorcycle racer here. Mission was my home track. Yeah, that cable deal is SOOOOOO much faster than safety wire. If it were not for the tool cost I'd say it would be better all around for everyone. It's your videos that finally made me realize just why and how a tube, with a bunch of fancy bits in the middel to be sure, that is open at both ends can generate thrust. Many thanks for that ! ! ! ! It was the video talking about the pressure along the way and how it dropped at the combustion chamber but also picked up speed as a result that was the "other shoe dropping" for me. Big fan here. Cheers!
@@AgentJayZ Sad that i live so far away. Lives in Sweden. Otherwise i have gladley helping you clean bults, bits and bobbs. I love when things ar clean an shining. 😎👍
My nubbinizing trick that saved the day. Had to run a new throttle cable through a casing. Crazy glued the end to keep it fraying. Worked like a charm.
Nice video. I will add DMC sells the tool for only $498 now (29Nov22). You still need to buy the cable kits as needed and a tension checker for $63. There's also 3 nose lengths available. Biggest downside now is that you need a completely different set of tools for each diameter cable, so you can triple the expense if you want to be able to do .022, .032", and .040". Keep your videos coming :)
Check out the price for A&P mechanic’s favorite wire crimper, the AMP 59250. I bought a used one from eBay when I first started building my Velocity. Story is, that AMP had such low demand when it cost $400 back in the day, that they discontinued it. Chaos ensued from the small but very vocal group of loyal fans. They started low-volume production again a few years back and charged $1100. I paid $150 for mine and sent it to the factory for a die check and everything was good. I checked the other day and they are up to a whopping $1800!! Absolutely the Rolls Royce of wire crimpers. It makes an “oxygen free” crimp on the wire, a crimp on the insulation, it won’t release until a full crimp and it’s easy on the hands. I am thinking of adding mine to our home insurance policy but I’ll never get rid of it.
I use the DMC version (red), all the time. A total life saver for some jobs. The blue one you have there is made by Bergen. They invented it together with GE. Basically the same exact thing.
I work on H-60s. The US Army approved Safety Cable about 2010. When I was younger I safety wired the tail rotor inboard retention plate bolts (16 bolts & 2 jam nuts.) it took me about 60 - 90 minutes, depending on a whole slew of factors. Now in my early 60’s, I can Safety Cable the same job in about 30 - 45 minutes. Saves a bunch of time. We use the Daniels Manufacturing tools, and as part of certification of the job we have test the gun with the test block and using a torque wrench to pull test the ferrel. Also the gun gets a calibration test by our metrology lab.
As a 40-year A&P, by the time you certify the test pull I can have most jobs done, sure there are some instances when this is great, such as high-volume production factories, but in the real world I could safety wire components so much faster. when you start doing wire upside down and in places when you have to use a mirror this technic is useless.
I used safety cable extenslively in the air force as an aircraft mechanic. I loved using safety cable in those tight places you couldn't get your hands in to. Otherwise we used standard safety wire for just about everything else, mostly for the pride!
From a professional perspective where time is money, this thing must be pure gold. As a hobbyist, I think Lockwiring is kind of an artform so yeah, I prefer that, but I can see why you use safety cable wherever you can. :)
I have used this tool on engines for some hard to reach places to use regular lockwire (ie horoscope plugs). Only difference I could see with the tool you use is that the crimping pliers I had were used as well to tension the cable. There was a small hole on the pliers that you feed the cable through, this would allow the pliers perform the following in sequence: 1: to tension the cable correctly (pliers will need calibration test) 2: crimp the ferrule at the end 3: cut remainder of the cable You had interchangeable lengths of rods to put at the end depending on either cable length or limited access. Overall a very useful tool in some instances but as a standard I would still use lockwire if access is good.
It's been a while since I watched your safety wire video but safety cable sure looks like it's faster. If I had to wire a much of nuts I think I might be willing to pay for the expensive tool. Thanks for another interesting video.
i teardown apu's and i came across a couple of 85 series (C-130 cargo) with the cables. definitely a time saver, especially in tight spaces where i need the whole bolt clear of obstructions for removal.
We used them on the outside just not in a bearing sump. Still had to do the traditional lockwire. You're right about the ferrules though. Wouldn't want to get one of those in a bearing.
Nice video, it is an added expense but to your point it does save some time. I've been working J85 this past couple years. On our J85 line Safety Cable isn't allowed in gas path, external only.
Seen safety cable hundreds of times in gearboxes. It is equivalent in strength and durability to lockwire. Don't go throwing fear and false suspicion where it does not belong.
@@AgentJayZ I can honestly say this isn't opinion. It's stated in the USAF T.O. I'm definitely not saying it's across the board. Appreciate the videos 👍🏼
@@AgentJayZ not a false statement if its in the standard practice manual. it may be allowed on certain engines. The engines I work on its not. either way appreciate the videos
Also the tool has to be calibrated. It has to be calibrated to be sure it can perform the correct squeeze to hold that tension on the wire to not let loose.
@1:36 in the nautical world, 'whipping' is the process of securing the strands at the end of a rope to prevent it from unraveling - a whipped end. Not sure if it translates to the aerospace world.
Amazing tool and it looks like they can be had nowadays for $500. Almost justifiable considering how much I pay an A&P per hour to safety wire my oil filter.
I worked at a place making bleed air valves, it was an absolute pain in the ass to lockwire this ome butterfly valve so we looked through the mil spec the DWG suggested we lockwired to and we found a grey area that we thought we could use safety cable. A year later the customer found out we switched it up and we got our asses handed to us for switching since it wasn't on the engineering dwg and they threatened to do a recall on them (they did not) Went from an hour and a half of lockwire to 5 minutes of safety cable. They never added it to the engineering dwg. Guess they just loved to pay us overtime every month just to lockwire them instead.
@@AgentJayZ yeah, we figured we would get in trouble with the customer eventually, but at the time they had these real strict deadlines every month to make the dollar and we were physically at our limits with the 12-16 hour work days they made us do at the time. We needed something to help us along since we had zero engineering support and no chance of a dwg change short term.
That unit is made by Daniels Manufacturing. When I first experienced them in the '90's my squadron got 3 aircraft from Depot that lock cables were used all over the aircraft and we were told 'its the new hotness' and.... as QA was doing the acceptance inspections every single lock cable had a defective ferrule swaged onto the cable end easily pulled off like it wasn't even swaged.
Good thing, then... that this cable tool was not made by Daniels. It's a real one, made by Bergen. Not endorsing them, but the cables do break before the end slips out. We confirm that every time we need to remove the cables... The QA managers should do their job, and ensure you have the right tools to Assure Quality... eh?
Looks like that tool is around 500 bucks by itself but there's a kit that's $2500 that covers .032 and .022 with ferrules, some cables and other related tools. Spendy but for niche products like this, not insane. I'm in telecom (what am I doing here) and specialty tools be like that.
Any good trade training is levels of mastery, at least it used to be. You don't know how to do something until you're told, here do (thing) until your hands bleed, then do it until they stop bleeding. come talk to me a few weeks and you'll get to paint the fence...
Square up the crimping tool to the bolt face before you crimp and you will not lose so much tightness in the cable. You held it off axis and when removed the cable got slack.
having used this tool in the Air Force on helicopters, i can tell you it is really expensive and not as effective as safety wire IMHO. There are some situations where this is absolutely a life saver.
I've NEVER worked anywhere that bothered getting us safety cable merely for the cost of entry. They'd rather us put hours on a card than pay upfront to save time and either us or the customer money.
Hi, I was working on 737 CFM engines. If I remember correctly, in AMM standard practice chapter it says not to use one safety cable on more than 3 fasteners. I guess that's because if there is a safety cable failure all the fasteners are no longer locked. On the other hand lockwire is more resistant in this scenario because the wire is twisted and it still maintains tension on remaining fasteners. Could you check your manual.
I hope AgentJayZ takes the time to respond to your comment in an upcoming video. It could be very entertaining... but it may take some time as he is probably very busy checking his manuals.
The Boeing AMM standard practice Chapter states that a maximum of 3 fasteners can be safety cabled together in series. Also states, among other things, that maximum space between fasteners to be cabled together must not exceed 6”.
first time I see any one just pulling the wire with pliers and not inserting it into the ''gun''. is it realy approved to use this method without a calibrated ''gun'' and just pulling it? is it the MOE that states how and what you can do?
The wire does not hold the torque of the bolt. It is there to prevent the bolt from coming off if it loses its torque. Obsessing about how tight the wire is, is missing the point entirely.
Awesome and glad this popped up as recommended, I haven't watch one of your videos for a while. I do remember watching your safety wire series way back and how good they were. Surprising to see this "new" technology and how it is accepted so easily as being a direct replacement for safety wire. But I somehow doubt military applications unless the procedure is rewritten? That crimped ferrule bit still makes me nervous. Has your tool been calibrated lately? Looks like the cal sticker is pretty worn ;-)
Thank you for the video. This just proves that the big dick competitions we would have in ~05 in the Air Force on who had the better safety wire were inept training regurgitations relative to this far superior method.
Cool stuff. General Aviation application, how can I figure out if safety cable could replace safety wire? I don't need a job, but in my next life I'd get a kick outta being your intern.
Typically if it’s not a rotating assembly, as far as I understand then you can swap cable for wire. In Army aviation it’s authorized so long as it’s not a rotating assembly then it’s good to go and I haven’t encountered any documentation in my GA work yet where it wouldn’t be authorized. If you have any question about it being good to use or not then go with wire, or reach out to the manufacturer.
My airplane (small two seater) is mostly locknuts. There are maybe a dozen bolts that need lockwiring but accessibility is so poor i would almost pour the money for a safwty cable kit. All those are of course critica boltsl ( engine supports, oil ducts etc)
You didn't have the pliers/keeper flush on the bolt head before you crimped and I saw the safety wire come loose once the keeper moved that little amount to the bolt head so now its not taunt. 7:12-7:23
The wire does not apply torque to the bolt. Thanks, though. Of course after the procedure, I check the wire to see how tight or loose it is. It was fine.
Hey! Great video, if y’all use the cable guns at s&s right much it may be worth looking into the gun that has a wheel on it, works great for setting the cable tension so you don’t have to pull with players from the cable end. I really came to appreciate safety cable but lock wire really lets you express your artistic abilities…😁
I just watched and enjoyed your different fuels for jet engines video from 6mth ago. Im surprised you never touched upon more exotic fuels though. One ive always wondered about is early in the development of the sr-71 and the J58 work was started in developing a coal slurry powerplant which leads me to believe its been tried in at least one aircraft before, Can you expand upon the use of coal slurry as fuel or other exotic types what are the major benefits of coal slurry and also what fluid would you suspend the coal particles in for the slurry? Alcohol? Diesel perhaps? Thanks
I'm not aware of any potential advantages of using coal slurry to fuel gas turbine engines. I would be shocked and amazed to find out P&W ever considered such an idea. Doubly so if it involved the J58.
Hydrogen was also brought up but shelved due to tankage issues,the coal slurry was decided the particle damage on components wasnt worth it, wonder what the draw of coal slurry was originaly,strange! Also wonder what parts are true declassified info and what are engineers stories.
@@fdst1857 I know you didn’t ask me, but I would imagine that the coal slurry was attractive due to the fact it’s suspended in water, water being an excellent coolant. Typically one of the main limiting factors on any supersonic aircraft is dealing with aerodynamic heating and ingesting hot air into the engine. Some of the longest hydrocarbons found in JP7 have a specific heat capacity less than 1/5th that of water, so you can see just how much of a thermal advantage it would offer over the fuel they ended up with.
I think you have a good idea. I don't have an answer for why the cable is not available in a box of say, 500 ft. I will pass your suggestion on at the next meeting of the Global Aviation Conspiracy... of which I am a self proclaimed regional leader. Yeah.
If I had to guess it's because at least one of the ends can be guaranteed to be properly attached, and while a large portion of the tools cost is to ensure it crimps reliably everytime, it still cuts any potential issues in that regard in half Also, you'd have to contantly deal with the wire splitting while feeding it through since you'd have a newly cut end everytime instead of a nice smooth fused tip And if you're buying an expensive tool like this instead of just doing regular lockwire the name of the game is speed and reliability
22 years as a crew chief and towards the end could do it faster without the pliers until the cut and foldover at the end lol There's times that the cable style would have been better for sure. But more things to lose that way
I know exactly what you're talking about ! Most of the time I only use a pair of duckbill pliers and a pair of side cutters, even then my hands alone do 90% of the job. I use the duckbills to help pull tension, the dikes to cut the tail, and again the duckbills to turn the pigtail under. I don't use wire twisters very often at all.
I recently discovered that f 22 raptor uses a cartridge to start it's APU [auxiliary power unit ] to start it's main engines do we have something similar in our shop that starts with cartridge or with auxiliary power unit.
Seeing that the last bolts you locked were so short, could one use a wire cut off from another area and crimp ferrules on both ends? Say if you only had long leads and all you needed was a 2” piece?
From a couple of days ago: Yes. It makes you think you are saving money... but you aren't. Plus, you are working on a million dollar engine... how cheap you gonna get?
so how far are you from being a rocket engine mechanic? a rocket surgeon? man on superbikes we use a wire, good up to 250 mph, that braided stuff looks like its good to at least 2000 mph, hale we just twist safety wire on itself, pinch locks? and a tool? actually there is a this twist tool that twists the wire on itself and tightens in that's pretty handy but that braided stainless and pinch locks now that's high tech, any idea the temp rating on something like that? 450F maybe?
Safety cable has different regulations per engine and can sometimes not be approved on certain components. On the TF34 the fuel lines leading to the fuel nozzles would not allow safety cable on the fuel line bosses. Don’t know why. Prefer safety wire anyways, get way more of a tight line.
Berm Peak Express! Been watching Seth since he was on his patio in Florida. He's a true professional, and an example of what is possible on YT. I still have a day job, and continue to grind away...
@@AgentJayZ For sure. Learned so much about mountain biking from him, although I'm still a noob. Looking forward to the inevitable jet-powered mountain bike crossover episode!
In rope making, the end of a rope is kept from fraying by wrapping it with small line (known as "small stuff"). This process is called "serving". In your safety cable, that blob on the end is basically a spot weld. All three wires are fused into a single blob. In the old days, this would have been done by connecting an electrical potential between the wire and a pool of oil-covered mercury, and touching the tip of the wire to the mercury to create a weld. Obviously the weld can't stick to mercury, so you end up with a blob connection like this. Nowadays people die of cancer just from hearing the word 'mercury', so I have no idea how such a weld is done now. Maybe a laser.
@@ddegn The original title was "To Serve Man" if I recall correctly. I can easily see it having been retroactively changed these days. A science fiction story from 1950 by Damon Knight, later made into a Twilight Zone episode, later used in a Bob Dylan song.
How are you? I am very happy and benefited from following you from Iraq. How does the jet engine continue to work well despite large amounts of water entering it, for example during rain? Thanks Haerth
If you go to the search box on my channel page, and type in "water", one of the hits is this video, where I talk about water ingestion. th-cam.com/video/zNBj6-w10zE/w-d-xo.html It's called Your Questions 19.
I know you know it well but wanted to sent your an RAF Canadair Sabre but I have learnt the hard way about import taxes but possibly group paradox phenomena I think people did but maybe no one did because lots have already have ?, I cannot win, best whishes HAPPY CHRISTMAS & NEW YEAR
I know it's certified so I'm sure it is good, but just from the looks it's hard to believe that the cable will snap before the cap slips off. Would be nice to see what happens when you pull on it hard enough.
Well, you just told me you don't believe what I tell you. So why do you even watch? This channel is about sharing my experiences working on jet engines with interested viewers. It's not about debating, arguing, or proving anything to anybody. The depressingly large portion of the world who belive whatever they want, ingnoring facts and denying science would just say " that could be faked". So no, I will not demonstrate anything to satisfy or disprove your suspicions.
Is it possible to not crimp hard enough so that the cap _can_ fall off? Gotta say the same thought ran through my mind when I saw that little piece of metal just hanging on the end there.
It is possible to do that. The result is that the wire is not cut and the tool gets stuck. You say a few choice words, rip it all out and start again. The thing to remember is that the wire cutting bit is the actual end of the rod that crimps the ferrule. No crimp, no cut. I am trying to share "what it's like" as a jet engine tech with people who don't get to have that experience. I get so much criticism from people who have never touched the stuff... I can hardly believe it sometimes. You don't believe what I tell you? Hey bud, many cat videos out there for you. For Fox Creek.
The thing to remember is that the wire cutting bit is the actual end of the rod that crimps the ferrule. No crimp, no cut. I am trying to share "what it's like" as a jet engine tech with people who don't get to have that experience. I get so much criticism from people who have never touched the stuff... I can hardly believe it sometimes. You don't believe what I tell you? Hey bud, many cat videos out there for you. For Fox Creek.
@@AgentJayZ thank you for the explanation. I don’t think yarmud or I said anything to make you believe we doubt your knowledge on the subject or criticized you in any way. In my case it was just a genuine will to understand the tool you demonstrated better. I may have never touched the stuff but I for myself can say I study mechanical engineering and I do have the ability to understand how machines and tools work even if I don’t have the experience of someone who worked in the field for several years. So I will criticize your passive aggressive tone towards two viewers who said nothing that was disrespectful in any way and were merely having a normal discussion about the topic of the video. That was not necessary.
@@AgentJayZ jayz, i hate to say it kind sir but i love you roasting folks 😋 sorry if it causes you stress. i would love a restaurant where instead of basic insults thrown at you there were agentjayzs dryly roasting patrons as they served them ya know
AgentJayZ I grow up with Aviation in the Family, my Epilepsy stopped me 6ft 3in to 5ft 7in Kyposcoliosis hunch back cheers life for that, NIBBLER my cat sit's up there, he's ok Double fused vertibre, bends forward but feel's like bending backward constant fall's break's and no DR will see me, I have a telephone appointment for my COPD from hospital, funny I thought they used a stethoscope !!! Not lazy I really wish I could work, was single dad 2 to 28yrs I still love my piston engine's, am motor mech I Miss so much. you are right here with as much theory as I can learn my favourite motor the turbo-jet, you are unique 3 or 4 books or favorite jet tech, comparable to whom ? I am lucky I guess I have a diversion from common daily ache's & pains I am quiet too, which was nice to discover, Problem is my Jet City Patreon has lapsed and you didn't complain, will find out from bank then sent balance to You, care of S & S Turbines, and reapply for Jet City Membership, ok. Mr Mic Stone 696 sorry mate
I wonder what stranded cables would sound like on a guitar. These ones aren't long enough, but I'm guessing they would be quite "lossy" and dead. But that's what the amps are for !
@@AgentJayZ With the size of those cables, I suspect you'd fold the neck before you ever got it in tune :D Still kinda want to try it though :D When you said "These are $1/piece, my first thought was "That's actually a good deal for guitar strings!"
The ferrule is not the weak spot. The wire needs to be tight enough to avoid vibrating and wear, but it does not hold the torque of the bolt. The wire is there to keep the bolt from winding out and becoming a loose piece of debris that could cause a lot of damage. The wire is not strong enough to apply the proper torque to the bolt. That's not what it's for. Every time a safety cable is removed for disassembly, the cable breaks. Even if the ferrule itself is gripped by the pliers and force is applied, the cable breaks, but the ferrule never comes off. I've never seen it happen.
@@AgentJayZ so the part itself is then treaded? Does air industy use nuts in any motorparts? How are nuts are hold so that they dont rattle off? Crown nuts?
This tool is made by Bergen. I found some at Aircraft Spruce when searching for safety wire tools. Also, search for "DMC SAFE-T-CABLE APPLICATION TOOL"
Neither. It requires a business license, and customers who trust your work. The true judge of your work are your customers, and they review your track record, expecting zero deficiencies.
Any jet engine runs better on gaseous fuel like natural gas or hydrogen, but a separate fuel system and different fuel nozzles are needed. According to Pratt & Whitney researchers, gaseous hydrogen is the very best fuel for turbine engines.
@@AgentJayZ And I suppose it is easier to put gaseous fuel in an industrial turbine than in a flying machine. They already have challenges to store hydrogen in cars, but airplane companies will have to get rid of oil at some point.
@@Francois_LHC_ Hydrogen's low density is a problem, and making it cryogenic or highly pressurized may be fine for spacecraft but seems way too hazardous for commercial aviation. It might be more sensible to sequester CO2 from the atmosphere or ocean and use it as carbon source for a synthetic hydrocarbon fuel. It'll be very energy-intensive but so is hydrogen production.
how come they make the bolts work against each other rather then making it so each bolt is tied to a stud made in the metal? I think that would be more stable then torque dancing around randomly based on the quality of the bolts surface finish and machining tolerances. That way if 9/10 bolts were perfect, 9/10 would stay in perfect extension (1/10 effected), rather then bolt #9 tightening bolt #10 and shifting the torque around (2/10 are effected).. don't worry about me trying this because I only ever used my lock wire pliers to repair shitty chain link fence (you got me to buy the 100$ tool a while back, don't regret having a nice fence patch though) .
I see it that pressure is like increasing on one bolt to prevent the other bolt from loosening, but all the energy that the loosened bolt is putting into the tight bolt is over tightening it, and making the seal deform on some tiny level.. to me that is forming like a saddle in the material, or a hill next to a flat in terms of pressure. That does not seem good for a seal. It just seems more stable.
like one bolt acting on another bolt makes me think of a small impact hammer trying to turn it, if its like rattling about, loosening and unloosening (on a long time scale).
Occasionally, that's the way it was done decades ago, with the wire passing through a hole specifically drilled nearby for the purpose, or through a hole in a tab doubling as a washer for an adjacent fastener. However, as AgentJayZ has already said, you (and others) are really overthinking the issue. Lockwire or safety cable was never the way to ensure that a fastener retained its assembly torque: it could not reasonably and practicably be expected to do so. It was a 'last ditch' safety feature. So, take this comment from someone who had a career lifetime in the design of gas turbine engines, industrial, marine and aero. All it was there to do was to stop a bolt that had relaxed, for whatever reason, from unscrewing further and causing a real disaster. The only effective way to prevent a fastener from relaxing is through appropriate design and the use of the correct tightening torque. Lockwire and safety cable has not been used in aero engines for decades now - except, possibly, in a very few, very specific instances. Deformed thread self-locking inserts and nuts have been the preferred standard for many years, since before I was an apprentice back in the 1960s.
So...if a cut off piece is long enough, I guess one could crimp on another ferrel and use the left over piece. Question is..if the ferrels are expensive such that it not be cost effective. Nice system for jewelry work.
At about 1:50, did you say "soddery"? To me, that sounds like a term for a form of sexual deviation. But I do now recall some of the American auto restoration shows I've seen on TV over here. They talk about "soddering", when I think they really mean 'soLdering'. Yes, in Brit English, we pronounce the word as it is spelt. For example, we also pronounce the word 'thorough' as we spell it: we don't say "thurrow". And the one that really creases us sailors (I have over 20,000 sea miles logged) is 'buoy', pronounced "boo-ee", not "boy". So how do you pronounce 'buoyancy' over there? "Boo-ee-an-see"? Nevertheless, American English is hardly more phonetic than Brit English, despite Noah Webster saving the printers a few letters, eg, 'ax' not 'axe', 'plow' not 'plough', and 'harbor' not 'harbour', plus all the other words where an '-or' ending replaces '-our' (etc, etc) Of course, I'm sticking my tongue ( "ton-gew-ee"?) in my cheek and taking the p*** out of Brit English, (both spelling and pronunciation) every bit as much as I am American English. Merry Christmas and/or Happy Holiday to you all!
When I worked at an FBO my lead mechanic, who was an old school ex Capital Airlines mechanic, had a phenolic punch, about 2” dia x 10” long, that I would borrow to tap things without marring. He always called it “The Horse C*ck”. I finally got a phenolic rod and made one just like it and engraved on it “The Jimmy Kerr Signature Series Horse C*ck”. In tribute to a great guy.
You're a great teacher. As soon as I had the question of "What happens if that little ferrule at the end comes off inside that can?" popped into my head I hear you say "If I pulled on this with a pair of pliers, the cable would break before that popped off."
Amazing intuitive sense for relaying information and answering our questions preemptively.
I used to use one of these in a few spots in the APU bay of a Bombardier CRJ - sometimes it's the only way to do the lockwire without being a wizard or putting 6 hours on the task card.
They're handy, but I found the bulkiness of the ratcheting mechanism meant they didn't always fit. The one I used had replaceable noses so you could sneak it into harder to reach places, but every once in a while the engineers come up with a spot that is truly magical.
20 years of working on B-52s and KC-135s and I got to where I did most safety wiring by hand, no pliers. Attended an A&P school and one of the projects we had to complete was a board with all kinds of fittings and connectors that had to be hand safetyed. I turned mine in and the instructor accused me of using safety wire pliers. I had to have three people tell him I did it by hand before he believed me. Even made me do it in front of him. I told him I safetyed about 50 times a day on aircraft before he gave me a pass.
F-16 Avionics here, depending on area or time I'd use hands or pliers, Mechanics knot too. AP school didn't care, I only had to learn how to secure a turnbuckle but that's in the AC43. Major difference in Civilian aircraft is the halfmoon vs direct wiring in the AF.
Plenty to be proud of..!
I used to work for the company that makes the lube oil tank for the PW-100 engine. The tank has a sight glass to check the oil level. It has 8 bolts holding it in. They used to lock wire them in place, but could never consistently get the direction, twists, and termination of the wire correct. Lots of rework, lots of escapes. The guys doing the wiring hated it. The guys inspecting it hated it. Switching to the safety cable made assembly faster, and better quality. As long as the tool functions correctly, safety cable is more than worth it for a manufacturer.
Theyre not that hard to do properly though, been doing them many times
Thank you for the over 10 years of amazing content.
Your lockwire video is the one that got me started watching your channel. As tedious as that particular task seems to be, its essential role in the safety of the engine and ultimately the aircraft and those flying in it was immediately obvious from the outset. And from there I was hooked. And I don't imagine for one hot second I'm anything close to even a beginner in the area of this craft, your videos have enabled an understanding of jet engine function function that I had never before been exposed to. It's been a fascinating education, free of charge, and I thank you.
As to the safety cable, it's clearly a huge time saver despite the initially very expensive outlay for the tools and materials. It's not hard to understand why this method would be preferred over manual lock wiring. Having watched many of your videos it's clear you have a craftsman's approach to this skill that is borne of years of experience and that you view manual lockwiring as a mandatory skill that each engine mechanic must master in the course of mastering the entire craft of aircraft engine maintenance. That's a lot of words that you may likely shorten to "You *have to* know this."
I could well be wrong since I can't speak for you. If I am, no doubt you will tell me. Meanwhile, I'll continue to learn as long as you continue to teach.
Ive had the DMC cable gun for a few months and I love it. When looking through our aircrafts standard practices manual I noticed that the manufacturer allowed the use of cable as a substitute. I ordered the gun and cable that day.
I work Avionics/Electrical on Blackhawks and Chinooks,Safety cable is a real time saver. Some of the Cannon plugs outer retaining ringnuts and Coax connectors are in horrible places no clearance at all. At 4:00 Snipe Nose pliers are what those are called. That's what the manufacturer of the ones I have call them lol. Love your videos always learning!
The tools are made by Daniels Manufacturing Corporation, come in a variety of sizes, both cable diameters and different nose piece lengths (that's the metal rod that protrudes out from the handle mechanism, that the cable threads through at it's tip). Yes, yours has been modified to remove the cable tensioner. Yours looks like one of the older models that had the wheel-type tensioner (which most mechanics prefer); the newer ones have an internal tensioner, and the cable threads through the hand grip portion; on those, squeezing the handle also applies the tension before swaging the ferrule and then cutting the cable.
The tensioners are adjustable, as there is a spec for the correct tension, and the nose pieces are replaceable, as they wear after extended use (several thousand uses); the swaged ferrule ends up getting mashed into the nose piece and it gets hard to remove from the finished cable. Dabbing the tip of the nose piece in a little engine oil helps extend the life of the nose piece.
There is a calibration block that's used to verify both the tension and the effectiveness of the swaged end. The cable block is about 10 inches long, and has instructions printed on it. It's meant to be attached to a bench. One side has a fixed post that the cable is threaded through, and on the opposite side is another post, on a crank with a 3/8" square ratchet drive for an indicating torque wrench (dial-type preferred). The cable is run through the test block and a ferrule swaged in place in the regular manner. Finger pressure is applied in the middle of the swaged cable to ensure proper tension; if it's too loose, the cable gun's tensioner requires adjustment. The dial-indicating torque wrench is attached, and the amount of torque necessary to cause the swaged cable to fail is noted. Generally with a properly-swaged ferrule, the cable will break before the ferrule pulls loose, but as long as the ferrule holds under the required torque for that size cable, the cable gun passes and is ready for use (the required torque is listed in the instructions printed on the calibration block).
The cost of the safety cable tools and the cables and ferrules are easily offset by how much faster safety cabling is than safety wiring. On a full engine teardown and rebuild, you can easily save 40 labor hours or more on, say, a CFM56-type engine. Daniels Manufacturing even makes pneumatic- and rechargeable battery-poweeed cable guns, mostly for assembly line type applications.
There are also additional pieces to allow for safety cable to wrap around a part vs. go through a drilled hole, and fiberglass sleeves that can be placed over the cable during installation to prevent chafing on a sharp corner.
An additional advantage of cable vs. wire is that with safety cable, there's no chance of getting caught or cut on an improperly pig-tailed cut end, like is all too common with safety wire.
This tool is not made by DMC.
I think I heard from one of your company's reps years ago about how great your tools were. I said send me one and I'll demo it in a vid. I never got a reply.
The tools we use are made by Bergen, and they work extremely well.
@@AgentJayZ . . . Umm, I'm not with DMC. Just used a lot of their products over the years.
Proper tools always make the job easier, faster, and safer/last longer. Not quite your level but the difference between $5 crimpers you get with a 60 pack of solderless crimp connectors, and the $80 ratcheting tool is noticeable when you do more than 1 or 2 of them.
As for wanting to work for you, have to admit it'd be cool for a while, then winter in Fort St John would set in ... Would rather beg for a visit when the test cell is active and I'm up there on work. 🙂
At the end of your video, you talk about the hierarchy to get where you’re going.. when I was 18, I wanted to work in a race car machine shop. They started me on sweeping the floors, then cleaning and painting blocks.. eventually I got into valve guides.. like you said, one step at a time. The highest level was eventually assembling the engines, which was the easiest part! The boss had a friend who was frequently unemployed, and since he was a moron, he would allow him to skip the machining and go straight to assembly.. he couldn’t “feel” the machines honing, milling, boring ect..
Stumbled upon the original years ago and youtube recommends the update. Thank you for sharing!
Old motorcycle racer here. Mission was my home track.
Yeah, that cable deal is SOOOOOO much faster than safety wire. If it were not for the tool cost I'd say it would be better all around for everyone.
It's your videos that finally made me realize just why and how a tube, with a bunch of fancy bits in the middel to be sure, that is open at both ends can generate thrust. Many thanks for that ! ! ! ! It was the video talking about the pressure along the way and how it dropped at the combustion chamber but also picked up speed as a result that was the "other shoe dropping" for me. Big fan here. Cheers!
Mission was my home track. Middleweight twins. Gen 1 SV650. 1:22 flat was my best time.
Bikes are genetically superior to cars. Yes they are.
@@AgentJayZ
Sad that i live so far away. Lives in Sweden. Otherwise i have gladley helping you clean bults, bits and bobbs. I love when things ar clean an shining. 😎👍
My nubbinizing trick that saved the day. Had to run a new throttle cable through a casing. Crazy glued the end to keep it fraying. Worked like a charm.
Nice video. I will add DMC sells the tool for only $498 now (29Nov22). You still need to buy the cable kits as needed and a tension checker for $63. There's also 3 nose lengths available. Biggest downside now is that you need a completely different set of tools for each diameter cable, so you can triple the expense if you want to be able to do .022, .032", and .040". Keep your videos coming :)
Check out the price for A&P mechanic’s favorite wire crimper, the AMP 59250. I bought a used one from eBay when I first started building my Velocity. Story is, that AMP had such low demand when it cost $400 back in the day, that they discontinued it. Chaos ensued from the small but very vocal group of loyal fans. They started low-volume production again a few years back and charged $1100. I paid $150 for mine and sent it to the factory for a die check and everything was good. I checked the other day and they are up to a whopping $1800!! Absolutely the Rolls Royce of wire crimpers. It makes an “oxygen free” crimp on the wire, a crimp on the insulation, it won’t release until a full crimp and it’s easy on the hands. I am thinking of adding mine to our home insurance policy but I’ll never get rid of it.
I use the DMC version (red), all the time. A total life saver for some jobs. The blue one you have there is made by Bergen. They invented it together with GE. Basically the same exact thing.
For some reason the blue ones aren't on the used market as much as the Daniels ones.
I work on H-60s. The US Army approved Safety Cable about 2010. When I was younger I safety wired the tail rotor inboard retention plate bolts (16 bolts & 2 jam nuts.) it took me about 60 - 90 minutes, depending on a whole slew of factors. Now in my early 60’s, I can Safety Cable the same job in about 30 - 45 minutes. Saves a bunch of time. We use the Daniels Manufacturing tools, and as part of certification of the job we have test the gun with the test block and using a torque wrench to pull test the ferrel. Also the gun gets a calibration test by our metrology lab.
As a 40-year A&P, by the time you certify the test pull I can have most jobs done, sure there are some instances when this is great, such as high-volume production factories, but in the real world I could safety wire components so much faster. when you start doing wire upside down and in places when you have to use a mirror this technic is useless.
@@stevenk1833 , like H-53A-E lower pressure plates? The tension test is done on the way past the tool crib.
@@duanepierson4375 not trying to be negative, maybe I'm just being old school
@@stevenk1833 , tell me about LOL, Damm computers, I miss paper manuals.
Thanks for sharing this with us. I see the speed factor but I also see the cost factor! Cool tool.
I used safety cable extenslively in the air force as an aircraft mechanic. I loved using safety cable in those tight places you couldn't get your hands in to. Otherwise we used standard safety wire for just about everything else, mostly for the pride!
Wow. Isn't it funny how all ex-members sound the same. Talk the same.
Enjoyed the video. Thanks.
I'd never heard of safety cable... thanx man
From a professional perspective where time is money, this thing must be pure gold. As a hobbyist, I think Lockwiring is kind of an artform so yeah, I prefer that, but I can see why you use safety cable wherever you can. :)
Was a nice tool back on the flight line, when approved and in cal. Thanks for the video!
So funny - love shop talk/pet names for tools. Also, nice hat tip to Seth from Berm Peak!
I have used this tool on engines for some hard to reach places to use regular lockwire (ie horoscope plugs).
Only difference I could see with the tool you use is that the crimping pliers I had were used as well to tension the cable.
There was a small hole on the pliers that you feed the cable through, this would allow the pliers perform the following in sequence:
1: to tension the cable correctly (pliers will need calibration test)
2: crimp the ferrule at the end
3: cut remainder of the cable
You had interchangeable lengths of rods to put at the end depending on either cable length or limited access.
Overall a very useful tool in some instances but as a standard I would still use lockwire if access is good.
It's been a while since I watched your safety wire video but safety cable sure looks like it's faster. If I had to wire a much of nuts I think I might be willing to pay for the expensive tool.
Thanks for another interesting video.
i teardown apu's and i came across a couple of 85 series (C-130 cargo) with the cables. definitely a time saver, especially in tight spaces where i need the whole bolt clear of obstructions for removal.
We used them on the outside just not in a bearing sump. Still had to do the traditional lockwire. You're right about the ferrules though. Wouldn't want to get one of those in a bearing.
Nice video, it is an added expense but to your point it does save some time. I've been working J85 this past couple years. On our J85 line Safety Cable isn't allowed in gas path, external only.
probably not allowed in gearboxes or bearing compartments as well
Seen safety cable hundreds of times in gearboxes. It is equivalent in strength and durability to lockwire. Don't go throwing fear and false suspicion where it does not belong.
@@AgentJayZ I can honestly say this isn't opinion. It's stated in the USAF T.O. I'm definitely not saying it's across the board. Appreciate the videos 👍🏼
@@AgentJayZ not a false statement if its in the standard practice manual. it may be allowed on certain engines. The engines I work on its not. either way appreciate the videos
I would like to start off on washing lettuce and in a couple years maybe make assistant manager. I heard that’s when the big bucks start rolling in. 😂
Any managers are politely and firmly escorted out the front door. Only people with actual knowledge and skills work at Jet City...
SAFETY CABLE TERMINATOR TOOL by Aircraft Spruce is currently advertised for sale at $525
Also the tool has to be calibrated. It has to be calibrated to be sure it can perform the correct squeeze to hold that tension on the wire to not let loose.
Oh, we've got the correct squeeze. Here, let me show you...
@1:36 in the nautical world, 'whipping' is the process of securing the strands at the end of a rope to prevent it from unraveling - a whipped end. Not sure if it translates to the aerospace world.
Probably knot. : )
Amazing tool and it looks like they can be had nowadays for $500. Almost justifiable considering how much I pay an A&P per hour to safety wire my oil filter.
You need that tensioner and the calibration tool that comes with the crimper, otherwise you can't guarantee it's effectiveness
I worked at a place making bleed air valves, it was an absolute pain in the ass to lockwire this ome butterfly valve so we looked through the mil spec the DWG suggested we lockwired to and we found a grey area that we thought we could use safety cable.
A year later the customer found out we switched it up and we got our asses handed to us for switching since it wasn't on the engineering dwg and they threatened to do a recall on them (they did not)
Went from an hour and a half of lockwire to 5 minutes of safety cable.
They never added it to the engineering dwg. Guess they just loved to pay us overtime every month just to lockwire them instead.
Sounds like you had a customer that did not trust the judgement of your techs.
Not a good situ to be in.
@@AgentJayZ yeah, we figured we would get in trouble with the customer eventually, but at the time they had these real strict deadlines every month to make the dollar and we were physically at our limits with the 12-16 hour work days they made us do at the time. We needed something to help us along since we had zero engineering support and no chance of a dwg change short term.
End of that cable has been welded, either laser weld or tig torch, to get it to hold the strands together.
Thanks! Jay
These are a life saver for Boro plugs
Your tool seems to be missing the cable tensioner wheel. I guess that hole in the side is where it was.
Yes! More tools and techniques, thank you! Already know everything knowable about jet engines from you :) 😄
That unit is made by Daniels Manufacturing. When I first experienced them in the '90's my squadron got 3 aircraft from Depot that lock cables were used all over the aircraft and we were told 'its the new hotness' and.... as QA was doing the acceptance inspections every single lock cable had a defective ferrule swaged onto the cable end easily pulled off like it wasn't even swaged.
Good thing, then... that this cable tool was not made by Daniels. It's a real one, made by Bergen.
Not endorsing them, but the cables do break before the end slips out. We confirm that every time we need to remove the cables...
The QA managers should do their job, and ensure you have the right tools to Assure Quality... eh?
Guess I should stop using vice grips to swage the ferrule...
Politically correct, maybe not?..but extremely entertaining and funny😂.
Thanks !
Looks like that tool is around 500 bucks by itself but there's a kit that's $2500 that covers .032 and .022 with ferrules, some cables and other related tools. Spendy but for niche products like this, not insane. I'm in telecom (what am I doing here) and specialty tools be like that.
Any good trade training is levels of mastery, at least it used to be. You don't know how to do something until you're told, here do (thing) until your hands bleed, then do it until they stop bleeding. come talk to me a few weeks and you'll get to paint the fence...
Saludos desde Riosucio caldas Colombia
Square up the crimping tool to the bolt face before you crimp and you will not lose so much tightness in the cable. You held it off axis and when removed the cable got slack.
having used this tool in the Air Force on helicopters, i can tell you it is really expensive and not as effective as safety wire IMHO. There are some situations where this is absolutely a life saver.
A braided cable has to be stronger than solid, no?
Nice method! But yeah, dropping those sleeves would be a concern.
I've NEVER worked anywhere that bothered getting us safety cable merely for the cost of entry. They'd rather us put hours on a card than pay upfront to save time and either us or the customer money.
Here at Jet City, it's all about producing the highest quality work, and helping our employees to live their best life.
Winters here suck, though...
Hi, I was working on 737 CFM engines. If I remember correctly, in AMM standard practice chapter it says not to use one safety cable on more than 3 fasteners. I guess that's because if there is a safety cable failure all the fasteners are no longer locked. On the other hand lockwire is more resistant in this scenario because the wire is twisted and it still maintains tension on remaining fasteners. Could you check your manual.
I hope AgentJayZ takes the time to respond to your comment in an upcoming video. It could be very entertaining... but it may take some time as he is probably very busy checking his manuals.
My manuals predate the invention of safety cable. I'll look into it.
Your correct, it's in the FaA standard practices. Which most manuals are based off of.
The Boeing AMM standard practice Chapter states that a maximum of 3 fasteners can be safety cabled together in series. Also states, among other things, that maximum space between fasteners to be cabled together must not exceed 6”.
first time I see any one just pulling the wire with pliers and not inserting it into the ''gun''. is it realy approved to use this method without a calibrated ''gun'' and just pulling it? is it the MOE that states how and what you can do?
The wire does not hold the torque of the bolt. It is there to prevent the bolt from coming off if it loses its torque. Obsessing about how tight the wire is, is missing the point entirely.
@@AgentJayZ The wire should be tuned to A=440
Awesome and glad this popped up as recommended, I haven't watch one of your videos for a while. I do remember watching your safety wire series way back and how good they were. Surprising to see this "new" technology and how it is accepted so easily as being a direct replacement for safety wire. But I somehow doubt military applications unless the procedure is rewritten? That crimped ferrule bit still makes me nervous. Has your tool been calibrated lately? Looks like the cal sticker is pretty worn ;-)
Thank you for the video. This just proves that the big dick competitions we would have in ~05 in the Air Force on who had the better safety wire were inept training regurgitations relative to this far superior method.
I must reply to myself and say "MY PIG TAIL IS MORE IN REGS HERPA DEEERRRRP!"
6-8 TPI, funny how While I was in they didn't care how big a pigtail is lol. 2004-2010.
Cool stuff. General Aviation application, how can I figure out if safety cable could replace safety wire? I don't need a job, but in my next life I'd get a kick outta being your intern.
Typically if it’s not a rotating assembly, as far as I understand then you can swap cable for wire. In Army aviation it’s authorized so long as it’s not a rotating assembly then it’s good to go and I haven’t encountered any documentation in my GA work yet where it wouldn’t be authorized. If you have any question about it being good to use or not then go with wire, or reach out to the manufacturer.
Actually the tools are only about 500 at most; just priced them. Well within the realm of a hobbyist tool.
My airplane (small two seater) is mostly locknuts. There are maybe a dozen bolts that need lockwiring but accessibility is so poor i would almost pour the money for a safwty cable kit. All those are of course critica boltsl ( engine supports, oil ducts etc)
You didn't have the pliers/keeper flush on the bolt head before you crimped and I saw the safety wire come loose once the keeper moved that little amount to the bolt head so now its not taunt. 7:12-7:23
The wire does not apply torque to the bolt. Thanks, though. Of course after the procedure, I check the wire to see how tight or loose it is. It was fine.
Hey! Great video, if y’all use the cable guns at s&s right much it may be worth looking into the gun that has a wheel on it, works great for setting the cable tension so you don’t have to pull with players from the cable end. I really came to appreciate safety cable but lock wire really lets you express your artistic abilities…😁
Correction, pull with players from the ferrule end.
Always the army guys bragging about hand wiring for 200 years when they'd still be faster if they learned to use tools
Where did you get the Planes of Fame hat. I volunteered there for 40 years. Great Air Museum.
I have been there a couple of times. I think the first time, I bought the hat in the gift store.
@@AgentJayZ could have used the cable lock wire to safety the updraft carburetor on some corsairs. My safety job does the trick but ain’t pretty.
Thank you !!!!
I just watched and enjoyed your different fuels for jet engines video from 6mth ago. Im surprised you never touched upon more exotic fuels though. One ive always wondered about is early in the development of the sr-71 and the J58 work was started in developing a coal slurry powerplant which leads me to believe its been tried in at least one aircraft before, Can you expand upon the use of coal slurry as fuel or other exotic types what are the major benefits of coal slurry and also what fluid would you suspend the coal particles in for the slurry? Alcohol? Diesel perhaps? Thanks
I'm not aware of any potential advantages of using coal slurry to fuel gas turbine engines. I would be shocked and amazed to find out P&W ever considered such an idea. Doubly so if it involved the J58.
Hydrogen was also brought up but shelved due to tankage issues,the coal slurry was decided the particle damage on components wasnt worth it, wonder what the draw of coal slurry was originaly,strange!
Also wonder what parts are true declassified info and what are engineers stories.
@@fdst1857 I know you didn’t ask me, but I would imagine that the coal slurry was attractive due to the fact it’s suspended in water, water being an excellent coolant. Typically one of the main limiting factors on any supersonic aircraft is dealing with aerodynamic heating and ingesting hot air into the engine. Some of the longest hydrocarbons found in JP7 have a specific heat capacity less than 1/5th that of water, so you can see just how much of a thermal advantage it would offer over the fuel they ended up with.
Very interesting work.
But why set lengths?
Why not a spool?
I suppose it has to do more with efficiency in the business...
I think you have a good idea. I don't have an answer for why the cable is not available in a box of say, 500 ft. I will pass your suggestion on at the next meeting of the Global Aviation Conspiracy... of which I am a self proclaimed regional leader.
Yeah.
If I had to guess it's because at least one of the ends can be guaranteed to be properly attached, and while a large portion of the tools cost is to ensure it crimps reliably everytime, it still cuts any potential issues in that regard in half
Also, you'd have to contantly deal with the wire splitting while feeding it through since you'd have a newly cut end everytime instead of a nice smooth fused tip
And if you're buying an expensive tool like this instead of just doing regular lockwire the name of the game is speed and reliability
The company I work for uses these on our vehicles and one end of the cable has a fixed squarehead
22 years as a crew chief and towards the end could do it faster without the pliers until the cut and foldover at the end lol
There's times that the cable style would have been better for sure. But more things to lose that way
I know exactly what you're talking about !
Most of the time I only use a pair of duckbill pliers and a pair of side cutters, even then my hands alone do 90% of the job. I use the duckbills to help pull tension, the dikes to cut the tail, and again the duckbills to turn the pigtail under. I don't use wire twisters very often at all.
I recently discovered that f 22 raptor uses a cartridge to start it's APU [auxiliary power unit ] to start it's main engines do we have something similar in our shop that starts with cartridge or with auxiliary power unit.
Seeing that the last bolts you locked were so short, could one use a wire cut off from another area and crimp ferrules on both ends? Say if you only had long leads and all you needed was a 2” piece?
From a couple of days ago: Yes. It makes you think you are saving money... but you aren't. Plus, you are working on a million dollar engine... how cheap you gonna get?
Thanx JZed
The racing community is watching 👀
Great stuff😊
so how far are you from being a rocket engine mechanic? a rocket surgeon? man on superbikes we use a wire, good up to 250 mph, that braided stuff looks like its good to at least 2000 mph, hale we just twist safety wire on itself, pinch locks? and a tool? actually there is a this twist tool that twists the wire on itself and tightens in that's pretty handy but that braided stainless and pinch locks now that's high tech, any idea the temp rating on something like that? 450F maybe?
As far as fishing a crimp ferrule out of an engine goes; are they magnetic? Some SS is, some isn't.
Not magnetic,
Safety cable has different regulations per engine and can sometimes not be approved on certain components. On the TF34 the fuel lines leading to the fuel nozzles would not allow safety cable on the fuel line bosses. Don’t know why. Prefer safety wire anyways, get way more of a tight line.
Also they jam every once awhile trying to crimp the swedge
7:53 Seth's Bike Hacks?
Berm Peak Express!
Been watching Seth since he was on his patio in Florida. He's a true professional, and an example of what is possible on YT. I still have a day job, and continue to grind away...
@@AgentJayZ For sure. Learned so much about mountain biking from him, although I'm still a noob. Looking forward to the inevitable jet-powered mountain bike crossover episode!
Z, you've tried this on the oil jet on the main seal of a T-58 yet? Let us know when you do.
I have not worked on a T58 for years now...
Did you mean to sneak a monty python reference in there.... 7:55
50% Eric Idle, 50% Seth from Berm Peak.
In rope making, the end of a rope is kept from fraying by wrapping it with small line (known as "small stuff"). This process is called "serving".
In your safety cable, that blob on the end is basically a spot weld. All three wires are fused into a single blob. In the old days, this would have been done by connecting an electrical potential between the wire and a pool of oil-covered mercury, and touching the tip of the wire to the mercury to create a weld. Obviously the weld can't stick to mercury, so you end up with a blob connection like this. Nowadays people die of cancer just from hearing the word 'mercury', so I have no idea how such a weld is done now. Maybe a laser.
"Everybody's got to serve somebody"
TIG welder, done it loads of times. Quick blip on the end of the cable, fuses it nicely.
@@AgentJayZ Reminds me of the great recipe book titled *"To Serve Humans."*
It's a Bob Dylan song from a ways back
@@ddegn The original title was "To Serve Man" if I recall correctly. I can easily see it having been retroactively changed these days. A science fiction story from 1950 by Damon Knight, later made into a Twilight Zone episode, later used in a Bob Dylan song.
How are you? I am very happy and benefited from following you from Iraq. How does the jet engine continue to work well despite large amounts of water entering it, for example during rain?
Thanks
Haerth
If you go to the search box on my channel page, and type in "water", one of the hits is this video, where I talk about water ingestion.
th-cam.com/video/zNBj6-w10zE/w-d-xo.html
It's called Your Questions 19.
@@AgentJayZ
Thank you
That’s cheating!! Awesome!
It is so much easier, I am willing to call it cheating. It's legal and approved, but still feels like cheating.
I'm sure that was you.
I know you know it well but wanted to sent your an RAF Canadair Sabre
but I have learnt the hard way about import taxes
but possibly group paradox phenomena I think people did but maybe no one did because
lots have already have ?, I cannot win, best whishes HAPPY CHRISTMAS & NEW YEAR
Being that the cable and ferrule are stainless, if they are clean the crimper might actually cold weld the ferrule to the cable.
It definitely does to some degree, but I suspect very very little of the holding force comes from that
No. You need to do a bit more looking into the phenomenon of cold welding.
"Clean" isn't clean enough.
@@AgentJayZ there will be sections that just happen to be molecularly clean, after crimping, that cold weld. but not enough to matter..
I disagree.
Never used one for wire, but that definitely looks, and sounds, like a crimper from DMC. (Daniels Manufacturing)
I know it's certified so I'm sure it is good, but just from the looks it's hard to believe that the cable will snap before the cap slips off. Would be nice to see what happens when you pull on it hard enough.
Well, you just told me you don't believe what I tell you.
So why do you even watch?
This channel is about sharing my experiences working on jet engines with interested viewers.
It's not about debating, arguing, or proving anything to anybody.
The depressingly large portion of the world who belive whatever they want, ingnoring facts and denying science would just say " that could be faked".
So no, I will not demonstrate anything to satisfy or disprove your suspicions.
Is it possible to not crimp hard enough so that the cap _can_ fall off? Gotta say the same thought ran through my mind when I saw that little piece of metal just hanging on the end there.
It is possible to do that. The result is that the wire is not cut and the tool gets stuck. You say a few choice words, rip it all out and start again.
The thing to remember is that the wire cutting bit is the actual end of the rod that crimps the ferrule.
No crimp, no cut.
I am trying to share "what it's like" as a jet engine tech with people who don't get to have that experience.
I get so much criticism from people who have never touched the stuff... I can hardly believe it sometimes.
You don't believe what I tell you?
Hey bud, many cat videos out there for you.
For Fox Creek.
@@AgentJayZ Cool your jets. Nobody's trying to call it 'fake' or criticize you.
Oh, I disagree.
I get it every freakin' day, and I don't give it an inch.
How do you measure the crimping strength as that tool ages? Cutting ability is obvious, it can cut or not.
Since the tool looks hand powered isn’t the crimping strength dependent on how strong you squeeze it?
@@flyingby3703 no, if the rod pushing the ring shortens it does not matter how strong you squeeze, i wont crimp enough.
The thing to remember is that the wire cutting bit is the actual end of the rod that crimps the ferrule.
No crimp, no cut.
I am trying to share "what it's like" as a jet engine tech with people who don't get to have that experience.
I get so much criticism from people who have never touched the stuff... I can hardly believe it sometimes.
You don't believe what I tell you?
Hey bud, many cat videos out there for you.
For Fox Creek.
@@AgentJayZ thank you for the explanation.
I don’t think yarmud or I said anything to make you believe we doubt your knowledge on the subject or criticized you in any way. In my case it was just a genuine will to understand the tool you demonstrated better. I may have never touched the stuff but I for myself can say I study mechanical engineering and I do have the ability to understand how machines and tools work even if I don’t have the experience of someone who worked in the field for several years. So I will criticize your passive aggressive tone towards two viewers who said nothing that was disrespectful in any way and were merely having a normal discussion about the topic of the video. That was not necessary.
@@AgentJayZ jayz, i hate to say it kind sir but i love you roasting folks 😋 sorry if it causes you stress. i would love a restaurant where instead of basic insults thrown at you there were agentjayzs dryly roasting patrons as they served them ya know
AgentJayZ I grow up with Aviation in the Family, my Epilepsy stopped me 6ft 3in to 5ft 7in
Kyposcoliosis hunch back cheers life for that, NIBBLER my cat sit's up there, he's ok
Double fused vertibre, bends forward but feel's like bending backward
constant fall's break's and no DR will see me, I have a telephone appointment for my
COPD from hospital, funny I thought they used a stethoscope !!!
Not lazy I really wish I could work, was single dad 2 to 28yrs
I still love my piston engine's, am motor mech I Miss so much.
you are right here with as much theory as I can learn my favourite motor the turbo-jet,
you are unique 3 or 4 books or favorite jet tech, comparable to whom ?
I am lucky I guess I have a diversion from common daily ache's & pains
I am quiet too, which was nice to discover, Problem is my Jet City Patreon has lapsed
and you didn't complain, will find out from bank then sent balance to You, care of S & S
Turbines, and reapply for Jet City Membership, ok. Mr Mic Stone 696 sorry mate
If only I could use that on the ciws
7:50 Classic English comedy
Ha, they're basically ball-end guitar strings. Nice.
I wonder what stranded cables would sound like on a guitar. These ones aren't long enough, but I'm guessing they would be quite "lossy" and dead. But that's what the amps are for !
@@AgentJayZ With the size of those cables, I suspect you'd fold the neck before you ever got it in tune :D Still kinda want to try it though :D When you said "These are $1/piece, my first thought was "That's actually a good deal for guitar strings!"
How much force does a wire like that hold? The ferrule is probably the weak-spot?
The ferrule is not the weak spot. The wire needs to be tight enough to avoid vibrating and wear, but it does not hold the torque of the bolt. The wire is there to keep the bolt from winding out and becoming a loose piece of debris that could cause a lot of damage.
The wire is not strong enough to apply the proper torque to the bolt. That's not what it's for.
Every time a safety cable is removed for disassembly, the cable breaks. Even if the ferrule itself is gripped by the pliers and force is applied, the cable breaks, but the ferrule never comes off. I've never seen it happen.
@@AgentJayZ so the part itself is then treaded? Does air industy use nuts in any motorparts? How are nuts are hold so that they dont rattle off? Crown nuts?
I think you may need to investigate further, just how bolts and screws work...
4:00 😂😂
Why the emoji?
@@ShainAndrews click on the 4:00 minutes. I'm laughing at his joke in the video at 4 minute mark.
4:10 good to know
Nombre de la herramienta ?
This tool is made by Bergen. I found some at Aircraft Spruce when searching for safety wire tools.
Also, search for "DMC SAFE-T-CABLE APPLICATION TOOL"
Hi does an A&P Mechanic certificate is enough to open your own shop? Or it does requires an engineer degree
Neither. It requires a business license, and customers who trust your work. The true judge of your work are your customers, and they review your track record, expecting zero deficiencies.
@@AgentJayZ Thank-you
4:10 🤣
I know this has nothing to do with safety wires but are old jet engines convertible to hydrogen fuel?
Any jet engine runs better on gaseous fuel like natural gas or hydrogen, but a separate fuel system and different fuel nozzles are needed.
According to Pratt & Whitney researchers, gaseous hydrogen is the very best fuel for turbine engines.
@@AgentJayZ And I suppose it is easier to put gaseous fuel in an industrial turbine than in a flying machine. They already have challenges to store hydrogen in cars, but airplane companies will have to get rid of oil at some point.
@@Francois_LHC_ Hydrogen's low density is a problem, and making it cryogenic or highly pressurized may be fine for spacecraft but seems way too hazardous for commercial aviation. It might be more sensible to sequester CO2 from the atmosphere or ocean and use it as carbon source for a synthetic hydrocarbon fuel. It'll be very energy-intensive but so is hydrogen production.
how come they make the bolts work against each other rather then making it so each bolt is tied to a stud made in the metal? I think that would be more stable then torque dancing around randomly based on the quality of the bolts surface finish and machining tolerances. That way if 9/10 bolts were perfect, 9/10 would stay in perfect extension (1/10 effected), rather then bolt #9 tightening bolt #10 and shifting the torque around (2/10 are effected).. don't worry about me trying this because I only ever used my lock wire pliers to repair shitty chain link fence (you got me to buy the 100$ tool a while back, don't regret having a nice fence patch though) .
I see it that pressure is like increasing on one bolt to prevent the other bolt from loosening, but all the energy that the loosened bolt is putting into the tight bolt is over tightening it, and making the seal deform on some tiny level.. to me that is forming like a saddle in the material, or a hill next to a flat in terms of pressure. That does not seem good for a seal. It just seems more stable.
like one bolt acting on another bolt makes me think of a small impact hammer trying to turn it, if its like rattling about, loosening and unloosening (on a long time scale).
This applies to all of your comments today: I think you are kind of overthinking it...
Occasionally, that's the way it was done decades ago, with the wire passing through a hole specifically drilled nearby for the purpose, or through a hole in a tab doubling as a washer for an adjacent fastener. However, as AgentJayZ has already said, you (and others) are really overthinking the issue.
Lockwire or safety cable was never the way to ensure that a fastener retained its assembly torque: it could not reasonably and practicably be expected to do so. It was a 'last ditch' safety feature. So, take this comment from someone who had a career lifetime in the design of gas turbine engines, industrial, marine and aero.
All it was there to do was to stop a bolt that had relaxed, for whatever reason, from unscrewing further and causing a real disaster. The only effective way to prevent a fastener from relaxing is through appropriate design and the use of the correct tightening torque.
Lockwire and safety cable has not been used in aero engines for decades now - except, possibly, in a very few, very specific instances. Deformed thread self-locking inserts and nuts have been the preferred standard for many years, since before I was an apprentice back in the 1960s.
So...if a cut off piece is long enough, I guess one could crimp on another ferrel and use the left over piece. Question is..if the ferrels are expensive such that it not be cost effective. Nice system for jewelry work.
At about 1:50, did you say "soddery"? To me, that sounds like a term for a form of sexual deviation.
But I do now recall some of the American auto restoration shows I've seen on TV over here. They talk about "soddering", when I think they really mean 'soLdering'. Yes, in Brit English, we pronounce the word as it is spelt.
For example, we also pronounce the word 'thorough' as we spell it: we don't say "thurrow". And the one that really creases us sailors (I have over 20,000 sea miles logged) is 'buoy', pronounced "boo-ee", not "boy". So how do you pronounce 'buoyancy' over there? "Boo-ee-an-see"?
Nevertheless, American English is hardly more phonetic than Brit English, despite Noah Webster saving the printers a few letters, eg, 'ax' not 'axe', 'plow' not 'plough', and 'harbor' not 'harbour', plus all the other words where an '-or' ending replaces '-our' (etc, etc)
Of course, I'm sticking my tongue ( "ton-gew-ee"?) in my cheek and taking the p*** out of Brit English, (both spelling and pronunciation) every bit as much as I am American English.
Merry Christmas and/or Happy Holiday to you all!
Following the politically incorrect route, what tool in the shop do you call the “donkey dick”? Every jet engine shop has one😂
When I worked at an FBO my lead mechanic, who was an old school ex Capital Airlines mechanic, had a phenolic punch, about 2” dia x 10” long, that I would borrow to tap things without marring. He always called it “The Horse C*ck”. I finally got a phenolic rod and made one just like it and engraved on it “The Jimmy Kerr Signature Series Horse C*ck”. In tribute to a great guy.
@@RMJTOOLS 😆 haha excellent.
Well, there is a tool we call the pogo stick...
I guess it's just so much bigger than your tool...
Oww. You got me there!