Most appreciated. Thanks for your time & effort in showing this, There's bugger all info on t&c grinders, I'm keen to learn more to apply to mine, Man, they can be a black hole for time spent making accessories & learning the geometry.
You're welcome. I've spent quite a lot of time making fixtures and having a good grounding in trigonometry makes life easier. I've resisted showing some sharpening like drills as its easy to put a basic shape on the end but I've been trying to split the point too and my results arent consistent enough yet. If you have a horizontal mill a TC grinder is a must. Used cutters are cheap and easy to sharpen. I'll cover those in a future video.
Thanks Robert, I really like to see a complete round down on your Union all it’s accessories and the ones you had to make for it. Looking forward to seeing more about your esoteric lathe.
@@ThePottingShedWorkshop I can imagine there’s a lot to cover, maybe you could just explain the relevant parts and if you made them that relate to the job you are filming. Don’t take this as criticism it just a suggestion I like your presentation style & content and you are helping me to understand the nuances of tool grinding. II seem to have a penchant for small T&C grinders first the Stent which isn’t completed but bears the closest resemblance to your Union, then the Kennet which I have restored and is serving me well with more accessories to make and last week I picked up a Worden at a bargain price that needs work.
@@ThePottingShedWorkshop I don't have a T&C grinder but so I've no practical experience but that one looks nicer (more refined) than the Clarkson. Cheers
@@Jan_Raap Sine = Opposite / Hypotenuse, Cosine = Adjacent / Hypotenuse, Tangent = Opposite / Adjacent. I guess the names change in Afrikaans or whatever so the acronym doesnt work.
Glad you liked the video, thanks for watching and commenting. The poster was advertised for sale on homeworkshop.org.uk. I spotted what it was and didn't hesitate! It brings a bit of colour into what would otherwise be a bit of a black, white and shades of grey workshop.
Nothing fancy I'm afraid. I use my phone, a samsung galaxy a15, cheap as chips but a good camera. Same goes for my editing software, all freeware. I'm not making any money on this so I'm not spending a fortune on it. I'd rather put my money towards more machines! Thanks for your comments and for watching.
I use OpenShot Video Editor for putting the clips together, OBS Studio for capturing the PC screen and adding a voice over and Audacity for editing sound tracks on the rare occasion it's needed. All freeware!
Trig Rules! Question: I did a 3D sketch in SOLIDWORKS of your pie shape to help me better understand the math. What I think you're explaining is how calculate how far the cutter must DROP below it's centerline to give the correct clearance. Imagine sharpening the flutes of a 1" endmill. If R was radius .500" , and THETA was 0 degrees then the side opposite angle BETA would be the vertical drop distance between the cutting edge and the center of the cutter. This DROP DISTANCE would give you the 7 degree clearance. My model shows that a 7 degree clearance angle on a 1" cutter would require a .061" drop......am I following you correctly? My KOLEE book gives formula for Drop = .0087 x Desired Clearance Angle x Cutter Diameter. This is only true if the grinder table isn't rotated from 0 degrees. I can't explain what happens when the table is rotated?????......Thank you for teaching me!
Not quite. The angle gauge gives a (relatively) precise rotation which, without the table being rotated, gives the clearance angle. As the table is rotated the clearance angle you grind changes - at 90deg there is no clearance! That was what my garbled explanation was trying to convey. Without the angle gauge you are right that you would need to calculate the drop to work out the clearance, but the jigs I have avoid me having to do that. Thanks for commenting. I thought a bit of trig would put viewers off!
@@ThePottingShedWorkshop So rotating your ANGLE GAGE is causing the cutting edge to DROP the proper vertical distance. But this DROP distance needs to increase as the table is rotated to achieve the 7 degrees of clearance. As you stated, at 90 degree's table rotation, turning the ANGLE GAGE wouldn't do anything. It's clear as mud! Have a wonderful day!
Clack of that support blade is close to perfect. Why 45° lead ? Wouldn't a shallower one ensure better centering? Dunno what your project is though so 45 may have a bearing (pff) on that Going to have to go back to basics re trig 😔
Yeah, its a satisfying click! The reamer runs in the mill spindle and as I didnt have a 39/64 drill for the 5/8 reamer the starter hole was bored out with a boring head. The application was for a belt tensioner on the lathe I'll describe next week, not critical but the reamer makes a good result easier for the design I chose. As for the 45deg angle, I copied a commercially ground reamer! Thanks for commenting!
The center of the bore is dictated more by the initial hole that the reamer will try to follow. If you want a hole to be in a certain location by reaming, you need a jig bore reamer that doesn't have the 45 degree end on it.
Most appreciated. Thanks for your time & effort in showing this, There's bugger all info on t&c grinders, I'm keen to learn more to apply to mine, Man, they can be a black hole for time spent making accessories & learning the geometry.
You're welcome. I've spent quite a lot of time making fixtures and having a good grounding in trigonometry makes life easier. I've resisted showing some sharpening like drills as its easy to put a basic shape on the end but I've been trying to split the point too and my results arent consistent enough yet.
If you have a horizontal mill a TC grinder is a must. Used cutters are cheap and easy to sharpen. I'll cover those in a future video.
Thanks Robert, I really like to see a complete round down on your Union all it’s accessories and the ones you had to make for it. Looking forward to seeing more about your esoteric lathe.
I was going to do that on the first video on the TC grinder, but it got a bit unwieldy. I'll try and fit that in in the near future.
@@ThePottingShedWorkshop I can imagine there’s a lot to cover, maybe you could just explain the relevant parts and if you made them that relate to the job you are filming. Don’t take this as criticism it just a suggestion I like your presentation style & content and you are helping me to understand the nuances of tool grinding. II seem to have a penchant for small T&C grinders first the Stent which isn’t completed but bears the closest resemblance to your Union, then the Kennet which I have restored and is serving me well with more accessories to make and last week I picked up a Worden at a bargain price that needs work.
Very interesting explanation,Very interesting machines and very interesting set up.Thank you.
Glad you enjoyed it!
That's a nice machine. Thanks for the lesson.
Thanks. The grinder is just the right size for my workshop. It's one of the machines I wouldn't be without now.
@@ThePottingShedWorkshop I don't have a T&C grinder but so I've no practical experience but that one looks nicer (more refined) than the Clarkson. Cheers
I should have paid more attention in math class at school. I need a complete re-teach on Sin Cos and Tan 😂
Thank you for posting!
SOHCAHTOA was the aide memoire we were taught. No complicated trig involved here fortunately.
Thanks for watching!
@@ThePottingShedWorkshop we didn't have that SOHCAHTOA in Africa!
@@Jan_Raap Sine = Opposite / Hypotenuse, Cosine = Adjacent / Hypotenuse, Tangent = Opposite / Adjacent. I guess the names change in Afrikaans or whatever so the acronym doesnt work.
Thanks, great video. 👍
You're welcome. Thanks for watching!
Excellent video! Where did you get that Tool and Cutter grinder poster behind you in the wall during your intro? Looks awesome. Thank you!
Glad you liked the video, thanks for watching and commenting.
The poster was advertised for sale on homeworkshop.org.uk. I spotted what it was and didn't hesitate! It brings a bit of colour into what would otherwise be a bit of a black, white and shades of grey workshop.
Thanks for this excellent video. What camera do you use. Regards BC
Nothing fancy I'm afraid. I use my phone, a samsung galaxy a15, cheap as chips but a good camera. Same goes for my editing software, all freeware. I'm not making any money on this so I'm not spending a fortune on it. I'd rather put my money towards more machines! Thanks for your comments and for watching.
@@ThePottingShedWorkshop Your editing program?
I use OpenShot Video Editor for putting the clips together, OBS Studio for capturing the PC screen and adding a voice over and Audacity for editing sound tracks on the rare occasion it's needed. All freeware!
@@ThePottingShedWorkshop many thenks. I'll have a look. BC
Trig Rules! Question: I did a 3D sketch in SOLIDWORKS of your pie shape to help me better understand the math. What I think you're explaining is how calculate how far the cutter must DROP below it's centerline to give the correct clearance. Imagine sharpening the flutes of a 1" endmill. If R was radius .500" , and THETA was 0 degrees then the side opposite angle BETA would be the vertical drop distance between the cutting edge and the center of the cutter. This DROP DISTANCE would give you the 7 degree clearance. My model shows that a 7 degree clearance angle on a 1" cutter would require a .061" drop......am I following you correctly? My KOLEE book gives formula for Drop = .0087 x Desired Clearance Angle x Cutter Diameter. This is only true if the grinder table isn't rotated from 0 degrees. I can't explain what happens when the table is rotated?????......Thank you for teaching me!
Not quite. The angle gauge gives a (relatively) precise rotation which, without the table being rotated, gives the clearance angle. As the table is rotated the clearance angle you grind changes - at 90deg there is no clearance! That was what my garbled explanation was trying to convey. Without the angle gauge you are right that you would need to calculate the drop to work out the clearance, but the jigs I have avoid me having to do that.
Thanks for commenting. I thought a bit of trig would put viewers off!
@@ThePottingShedWorkshop So rotating your ANGLE GAGE is causing the cutting edge to DROP the proper vertical distance. But this DROP distance needs to increase as the table is rotated to achieve the 7 degrees of clearance. As you stated, at 90 degree's table rotation, turning the ANGLE GAGE wouldn't do anything. It's clear as mud! Have a wonderful day!
Clack of that support blade is close to perfect. Why 45° lead ? Wouldn't a shallower one ensure better centering? Dunno what your project is though so 45 may have a bearing (pff) on that
Going to have to go back to basics re trig 😔
Yeah, its a satisfying click! The reamer runs in the mill spindle and as I didnt have a 39/64 drill for the 5/8 reamer the starter hole was bored out with a boring head. The application was for a belt tensioner on the lathe I'll describe next week, not critical but the reamer makes a good result easier for the design I chose.
As for the 45deg angle, I copied a commercially ground reamer!
Thanks for commenting!
The center of the bore is dictated more by the initial hole that the reamer will try to follow. If you want a hole to be in a certain location by reaming, you need a jig bore reamer that doesn't have the 45 degree end on it.
Nice video…get yourself some ball end hex drivers….much easier to use than old style Allen keys
@@johnhall8455 Agreed. I've got a set of metric ones, I really should get some imperial ones.
This complicates things a bit. I never learned trig in school 45 yrs ago. Lol.
Ouch! It comes in very useful for an awful lot of things in machining. A sine bar for example.