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How To Easily Add New Outlets To Existing Walls | DIY With No Wall Repair!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 23 ต.ค. 2021
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My garage is short on outlets. In this video I'm showing you how to add new outlets to an existing wall, without damaging or repairing drywall! This is a very easy project and a great solution to adding outlets to a room.
Check out my video where install 220 in my garage: • Adding 220 Volt Outlet...
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Welcome to the official April Wilkerson TH-cam channel! I’m April and I’m the creator of Wilker Do’s. I am an obsessed DIYer and Woodworker. I'm not professional or have any training, so I just pick the project I want to tackle and figure it out step by step. On this channel you will find a variety of content like DIY home improvement, How-To’s, construction, design and more!
#AprilWilkerson #electrical #diy
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Simplisafe is the most unsecure system on the market and should be avoided at all costs..
@Linda L No it would not..
10/31/2021 - Sunday morning cup of coffee brewed, sitting out on patio, cue up new Wilkerdo video … Wait! What? No new April video today? That’s it, my week is scr#wed 😢 😆
@Linda L ... In the case of a retrofit there are different rules. The one I know for sure is you don't need to secure the wire except at the boxes. The nail plates were a nice touch for safety.
@@rogergy1 ... I do believe that's national code by now, with the possible exception of a ceiling outlet for a door opener. (depending on the ease of access is the way it's worded) How to do that is covered elsewhere, but circuits in any damp / wet location (garage / basement) must be GFCI protected.
As a retired electrician, we would use a strong magnet to locate the screws on the drywall to be removed, even nails, this way the drywall will come off in one piece. Just a small bit of help. Thanks for all you share n nice job. You're hired.
Yep. Not a fan of cutting into structure even this little bit.
@@kevinwilson2536 My first thought as well, hope that wall is not load bearing.
I used magnets like you say, as a kid, then bought lots of fancy stud finders. I’ve been coming back to magnets as I get older. They just work. Funny how that works.
@@markme4 .... in hind sight she could have cross drilled each stud and probably still used the nail plates for protection.
@@markme4 The building code allows load bearing studs to be notched up to 25% of their width, so if this is a 3-1/2" stud it can have up to a 7/8" notch taken out.
7:28 I was mind blown with your sorcery. You ALWAYS have a creative solution that is so well shown 🙌🏼
Just the fact that you showed me how to use a putty knife along with the pet bar, was worth watching! I’m taking my shoe molding off my baseboards, and this helps. I’m always learning at age 67! I love building!
Awesome! So glad you enjoyed the video. Thanks for watching.
My 4 year old daughter: "Is that a girl?" Thanks for giving me an early opportunity to explain to my daughter how capable she is to do anything. I didn't realize she was already forming thoughts that this sort of thing may be "guy work". Subscribed.
Awesome! Give her a High Five for me! Thanks for watching.
As a woman millwright / sanitary process welder my grandchildren too thought it odd that I did " mans work " . My husband also a millwright / welder explained to them that the work involved THINKING and knowledge and not brute strength. That the work was most enjoyable usually and paid well. We are now mostly retired now and watch our grandchildren find their way in the world. Hope we gave them options for employment and job satisfaction.
Obviously most women don't like to touch electrical wires, get on hands and knees. Saw dust. Dirt and grime. These are just the facts. Its men type of work. She just enjoys doing it. Very profitable and she enjoys it.
When using the multitool, I like to cut a score line first along the pencil line, then angle the cutter 45° to cut through the rest of the drywall. The score line makes it easier for the cut-through. And sometimes I save the cut out piece to use for a drywall patch somewhere else. Nice job.
My 12 yr old daughter loves your channel, and I love that she loves your channel! I love for her to see that girls can do all the things guys can do and that these things are not just a “guy” thing. That way when I’m dead and gone, I’ll rest easy knowing she can handle whatever comes her way and won’t rely on anyone else.
Awesome! Give her a High 5 for me! I didn't start out knowing all that I do now. I started with small projects and as my confidence and skill level grew, I could do more advance projects. Please tell her to work hard, never give up and you can do what you set your mind to. Thanks for watching.
@@AprilWilkerson she saw your comment and came out of her room flying, I thought the house was on fire 🔥! Lol. She said she won’t stop trying and thanks! High five back!
I love your independence. I wished I had the outlet when I was growing up that you do now. I always was in the shop with my dad. I wished I would have told him that I wanted to continue doing it, but life was different back then. I became a secretary and puttered around in the shop when I could have made a career out of it.
Seems like you’re still here
Never too late!
Great, I see the putty knife trick literally one hour after I finished patching my wall from some crown moulding removal...Thanks April It'll com in handy later I'm sure.
Sweet! I was wondering how to add extra outlets to my daughter's room so she doesn't have extension cords run out to her reading lamps. This is the perfect solution!
Good job April, glad you put those plates in so you couldn’t accidentally nail the wires. Stay safe and keep up the good work and videos, and have fun along the way. Fred.🙏🏻🙏🏻👍🏻👍🏻👏🏻👏🏻✋🏻✋🏻
I don't see what is stopping her from sending a Brad nail into the wire when reattaching the trim.
HA!! And you THINK you now have enough receptacles????
Receptacles in a shop are like clamps: you can never have too many!!
THANK you for using the steel nailing plates. I knew a guy who wired a ceiling fan from a wall receptacle by running lamp cord in the groove in the paneling, and then wallpapering over it. I also heard later that he was electrocuted at his next house.
Love your channel.
@@MinecraftWarrior22 Code only requires them when going through wooden members. No one nails trim to drywall only.
As a former electrician, it actually was an overall good job! My preference would have been to drill the studs, but you took good safety precautions to protect the wire.👏
Yes, I would have drilled the studs as well but mostly because it would have been faster. But still a very nice, thorough, and safe job.
Where is the GFCI
@@brianpimental2948 probably upstream or a breaker
@@g.e.boroush5176 drilling the studs wouldn't be possible, as they are full of nails at the bottom plate. Using an auger would just make a mess.
I reeeeeeally need to pick up one of those multi tools....
7:00 Pro tip: Inserting both the feed and load Romex thru the *same* side (e.g. bottom) of your box makes snugging the box back into the wall a bit easier.
Great job. That's the method I used years ago in my 1940s house to add receptacles, switches and separate circuits. Have a great day.
Any considerations for doing this in finished walls with insulation? I'm guessings since the standard outlet height is 16in. or so that's not too much insulation to wrestle with?
Nice. I did the same thing last month except I did a wire chase a few inches higher than the existing outlet because I was doing built in cabinets with backs. The wire chase was just wide enough for the nail plates to be installed easily. Because the cabinets would have backs on them, I didn't need to reinstall the drywall and the backs would hide it all. Then I just ran the Romex to the height I wanted the boxes to be, just like you did. I'm impressed by how you did this and I have been a licensed GC for over 20 years. My hat is off to you.
Yeah, but, you now have a huge hole in the drywall which allows drafts to come up inside the wall cavity possibly affecting comfort and/or heating/cooling efficiency and reducing the fire retardant effect of drywall.
@@audiocarp Hi Howie. Depending on where this is done, I would very much agree with you. I would never do it on the firewall between a garage and the interior of the house for fire safety reasons. Drywall is not required on ANY walls of a house except for the firewall (whether it is between units in a multi-family building or between a garage and house) (even then, there are other ways to make a firewall). All other walls can have almost any finish material you want - think thin interior paneling. This is for the same reason that interior doors don't need to be fire rated, but the door from the garage to the interior of the house does. The chase/slot I cut in the drywall (and covered with plywood cabinet backs) would be less of a fire concern than the 1" gap at the bottom of every door in the house (much less if the individual door(s) weren't closed).
I also wouldn't do the "open" (even though it is encapsulated with plywood) chase/slot on an exterior wall of the house in the living areas, mainly for insect reasons. Your comfort reason would only be an issue in a newer "tight" (as in tightly built - air intrusion wise) home. In that case, you are spot on for that reason. But older homes are incredibly bad at air intrusion already and, as mentioned, everything was covered by plywood.
To be fair to you, I should have mentioned (in my original post) where I did this on my house - on the exterior wall of my garage. No finish requirements, no fire requirements and no heating/cooling.
Sparky’s going crazy!
Thanks for sharing April. I’ve been wanting to add some outlets in my kitchen and my shop but haven’t really known the best way to go about it without cutting into the wall and having to do a bunch of work on the sheet rock. I’ve done plenty of electrical work in the past so I do know how to do all the wiring for that kind of stuff but you definitely made that whole process of getting the wiring in a lot simpler.
Terrific video presentation with a lot of good suggestions. One suggestion, since you are mounting sockets on a wall with metal tools hanging above, flip your sockets with the ground stud facing up. This is an industrial standard that I learned about 30 years ago. If a plug isn’t completely inserted and something metal slides down, you want it to hit the ground and not a hot line. Just my 2¢.
Stay safe out there. Wishing you and your family a blessed week. Peace April.
This is standard practice in the hospital I worked at. Also wrap them with a couple wraps of electrical tape.👍🏻
@@--Nath-- …UL standard is that the earth/ground pins be the longest ones, so that they are the first to make (contact), and last to break (contact).
And this is standard engineering practice in ANY electrical or electronic work, actually.
@@--Nath-- As the ground pin is usually the tighter pin in the socket, it is far more likely that the hot and neutral pins will dislodge when they are on top, than the ground will when it is on top. I understand the perspective you're trying to argue in your point; but, it isn't really valid compared to the advantages of ground pin up.
@@--Nath-- Very unlikely as that is why the ground prong is much longer than the blades.
@@--Nath-- There is no upside down to US style outlets. Code allows either orientation and most GFCIs have labeling that can be read in either orientation. The longer ground prong accommodates an uneven withdrawal of the plug. You are worrying about a problem that doesn’t exist.
I've enjoyed your videos for a long time. Since I started watching your content I've become a home inspector. Sometimes I'll see something on a home and say to my clients, "This is the best possible way for this to be done wrong. It's not correct, but it shouldn't be a problem." It's your shop, and I appreciate the care you take in doing it the best possible kind of wrong. You're awesome, keep it up!
Wrong is in the eye of the beholder. This is just a different way.
@@dontfit6380 Not when were talking about building code, in this case the NEC. Sure this way will work but it would likely not pass an electrical inspection. Thus the reason why Justin said it was done wrong.
I did that exact same thing in 1982. House is still standing! :)
@@thirdey3open1 codes were started by Unions to make things look difficult for the average person to do. Giving the Union’s more work. Permits to do the work we’re created by government to give them more money. Most codes do mean 💩 and a new code will over rule an older code. Chances of this being caught by any inspector is slim to none and chances of this causing any problems are none.
@@michaelhenderson5098 Noooo not possible!! The house must have been rebuilt! 🤣
OMGosh, I needed to see this for my next project! Great timing, April, and great video! Thanks!
I love your content, but I don't recommend notching any structural framing member. Much better to go through the middle of the wood. Personally, I would have made the drywall the sacrificial piece in this build.
Notching is bad where you might have a bending moment in the member, but at the end of the stud you will only be looking at axial loads. It is unlikely the crushing stress of the sill plate was controlling. This notch at the base of the stud probably does not compromise the system.
Why?
@@--Nath-- it's a thing here in the UK
@@--Nath-- Could you provide a reference to a NEC section that disallows notching structural members? UPD: I see that you're not in US, likely have different codes there. I heard that you guys aren't even allowed to work on your electrical stuff, is it true?
Nail plate is actually required in such cases by US electrical code (NEC), it's kind of officially approved way to do it.
A few reasons. 1. Wood’s strength comes from its edges not the center, think about a how a truss works. This is my primary reason. 2. Code requires all plumbing and electrical to be 1 1/4” from the edge of the framing member this gives drywall and finish carpenters something to attach to without fear of hitting wire or plumbing. If for some reason that is not possible a piece of metal strong enough to stop a nail or screw must be placed over it to protect from piercing it.
In this scenario they wanted no visibility to wires and no wall patching. Which isn’t possible to do and still meet code. So, if I am going to cheat code anyway; I am going to do it with something that is primarily asthetic, dado the drywall behind the baseboard.
We have 1918 home and very few outlets. We have been struggling to figure out how to get more without tearing out the plastic and lathe or running those ugly wall channels...this is perfect!!! Great idea and save my bacon...our baseboards are 5" and will cover easy!!!!
Great! Glad you found it useful. Thanks for watching.
You can accomplish the same effect using a long flexible drill bit that allows you do drill through studs from the box holes. You can't always avoid drywall work but you can reduce it significantly. If the wall is insulated it can be a little harder to do.
Good luck trying to fish the wiring thru those holes in each stud.
And good luck getting around that window. I thought it was pretty ingenious as going behind the base molding wasn’t something everyone would think of.
@@jtltet drill bits for this purpose have a hole at the point end so that you can pull a string or wire back through when you're done drilling.
Not if you have wallpaper... Thank you, April. I need an outlet for a bidet and hers is the perfect solution for my walk-in closet right beside the bathroom
Anyone that has a "clean garage" is suspect and not someone I want to know. LOL Great stuff April!
I know, I have seen people and they can park cars in their garage's ........very strange !! ....lol
Great point
If my name isn't Dave or David can I still post here??
A clean garage makes me sad. Ours was clean enough to park in for about 1 month after moving in. No cars have made it that far for nigh on 15 years now. No reason to think they ever will again.
@@slowguy56 We've hit the Dave/David quota so you're free to post. lol
Same thing with my garage. I think it was used for cars maybe the first three days after we moved in. That's prime workshop space!
She is more competent than most of the helpers I've had. They couldn't have figured out how to do that if they just watch ur video. Lol. No code issues and good workmanship. 👍
This is a great reason to use a stud finder with a built in voltage meter that tells you when you're close to hot wires. The vertical wires will be loose and prone to new nails or screws hitting them. This obviously wont be an issue in this case because April can clearly see where the wires are, but if you are in a house with retrofits or remodels where someone might not have done it as cleanly as April did, it's important to know where cords are.
Great video. Short and to the point, while still being very informative!!
The loose wires are plenty safe. There is nothing to pinch them. If you were running a screw into the drywall in the middle of a cavity (why would you?) the wire would simply get pushed out of the way. There is nothing to keep the wire fixed in place allowing the screw to puncture the wire. There is 100% nothing wrong with this install.
Thanks April! Just moved to Texas and have a garage with no outlets on a wall that needs them and this is perfect for what I now will do!
Better than any videos for the same topic on TH-cam. Liked and subscribed!
I’ve been looking for this video for a while . You are the best.
Glad you found it useful. Thanks for watching.
Nice video again! I wish it was this simple to hide wires down here in Holland, where almost every house has brick walls with plaster + paint or wallpaper...
While just about everything about this is the wrong way to do it, it works and it'll likely never have an issue. Job done and mission accomplished.
What exactly here is "the wrong way to do it"?
At least explain ur self man so we can know
Generally building code doesn’t allow you to notch framing members. Electrical wire should be 1 3/4” from finished surface.
Like you said, done wrong but done. People asking what is wrong - you run wires through the middle of a stud, you don't damage the outside of the stud. Also, there is no thought to how many outlets are on the circuit and the potential load. If you run the appliances on those 8 extra plates you could very well overload the circuit and cause the wire to overheat. It's not likely to run it all at once, but that should be factored in when running circuits.
But this is how many of us would get a job done, and I sure am not saying I wouldn't cheat and do something similar in a pinch.
@@michaelmiller1109 NEC 300.4: "...cables or raceways shall be permitted to be laid in notches in wood studs, joists, rafters, or other wood
members where the cable or raceway at those points is protected against nails or screws by a steel plate..."
Great video. Maybe a router instead of the multi tool for the notching of the wire? Just a little arm chair thinkery! 👍🏻👍🏻
This is a DIY that has merit for inginuity although you may not realize this installation is not up to code.2 things come to mind here. First, you have compromised the integrity of exterior wall studs which are 'load-bearing' . Any penetrations should be made in the center of stud. There are specific dimensions allowable for this. The nail plate will always be used for conductor protection in penetrations and cant be relied upon for structural strength. Second, the romex MUST BE STAPLED WITHIN 6" of the box to prevent spread of fire through the romex in the event of over heating of conductors. A drill bit could have been used to drill through the center of each stud near the base and the inconvenience of a little drywall work would have enabled a secure staple within 6" of box. I am not completely condeming this but we both know that unskilled viewers of this can take this method too far and create some VERY UNSAFE installations.
Good Lord
I wish she'd respond and acknowledge fact instead of ignoring it and pushing unsafe practices. I'd hate to buy a place after her even though I enjoy her channel
All great points.
Can you explain how stapling the romex prevents fire from spreading through it?
If you feel the need to be officious, Don , at least put in the time to research the matter and be right. Speaking as a retired Electrician and GC, you're literally wrong on every count -
IRC, IBC and Cal Residential Code all permit notching of studs in exterior and bearing partition walls up to 25% of the studs width. April is in Texas, so IRC and IBC are the relevant codes.
NEC does not require framing member penetrations to be made "in the center of the stud". Code requires that the penetration be a minimum of 1-1/4" from the edge of the stud, OR that it be protected by a nail plate.
NEC 304.b specifically permits placing cables in a surface notch - as long as the notch is permitted by pertinent building code and the is protected by a nail plate - which April did.
"The nail plate will always be used for conductor protection in penetrations and cant be relied upon for structural strength." NEC *ONLY* requires nail plates where a cable is within 1-1/4" of the edge of a framing member that will be covered by a surface treatment. And nail plates have absolutely nothing to do with structural strength, so why mention it?
NEC requires fastening NM cable within 12" of a box, not 6", and this has nothing to do with "preventing spread of fire" (that's the job of fire blocking). Fastening the cable reduces the chance of someone standing on or pulling on a cable and disrupting the junctions in a box. And while April did not fasten the cable within 12" of each box, she did secure it at where the cable exited that stud bay. And the cable run is in a fully enclosed wall. Her install *mostly* meets the spirit of NEC 334.30, by securing the cable in such a way that someone pulling on the cable where it's exposed (at any box) would not be able to disrupt any other connections.
Finally, Romex is a brand name. If you want to play code police, at least get the terminology right. It's Nonmetallic-Sheathed Cable or NM, not "Romex".
@@markme4 It doesn't - Don doesn't know what he's talking about. Securing NM cable near the junction boxes prevents the connections in the box from being damaged if someone stands/pulls on an exposed cable run. Fire blocking prevents the spread of fire.
A large putty knife as a pry bar support is a GREAT tip!
Anytime a DIYer invades the world of professionals, it is sure to bring out well intended comments about what may have been done wrong like not mentioning the obvious, first turn off the power. :-)
It's to April's credit that she gave us credit for knowing that. But ask me about the time I cut into one of those old-fashioned cables carrying two hots from different unlinked breakers and a neutral. Every pair of diagonal cutters needs to have its little crescent shape on the blades, right?
Never thought about that as well. If nothing else I learned to use a putty knife
@@Digital-Dan ... isn't that how you make your own wire strippers?
Thanks for this video. I'm getting ready to add six(6) outlets in my garage and this gave me some new ways to accomplish my task. Keep the videos coming and God Bless!
Where can I get my own April Wilkerson? I looked at Lowe's & they were all out.
Very practical project with step-by-step walkthrough, thanks!
I am making some changes to my garage and need to add outlets, I just need to fish the wire from the other side of the wall, I had no idea those boxes existed! Great video with good info!
Nice video, April~! That's a great technique for executing that project. I probably would've drilled a pass-thru hole at the stud's bottom for the Romex, but the notching idea works too~!
Thanks for sharing this~!
Thanks for the tip of a putty knife with pry bar to pull of the molding.
Glad you found it useful. Thanks for watching.
Thank you April, your videos are super easy to follow for novices. Thank you Again
Glad you like them!
This is a good trick for someone with wooden studs... I live in Hawaii and have a supposedly hurricane proof house with metal studs. I have to figure out where the openings on the metal studs are so I think drywall repair is necessary.
This video was so helpful. I watched another video where the guy drilled wholes in the studs but he had higher molding. After watching your video, I think I can do the job with my shorter molding by notching the studs at the bottom and then protecting them like you did.
I'm glad you found it useful. Thanks for watching.
Nice job April. I have to add a double gang box behind my lathe. I'll use this method to accomplish this task. Thanks.
Awesome video April! I don't even know how your video ended up in my world but fantastic job just the same! Having a daughter I'm glad to see the "can-do" attitude you display in life. Keep 'em coming!😁👍
Thank you! I'm glad you enjoyed the video. Thanks for watching.
That is a great way to handle additional outlets. I am glad to see you doing smaller projects again.
I do projects of all sizes. My Viewers are such a wide range of woodworking/maker skillset. If I do large, more complicated projects, people complain I've lost my roots. If I do small projects, people complain I'm slacking. Sure is hard to please everyone so I do some of all. Thanks for watching.
As always a great video April, keep them coming.
I installed a 12 inch ceramic tile along the base in my garage and it would have been perfect for this project. I finished my walls at the same time so I just ran the wire normally, but I thought it would be another way to accomplish the same thing. I also like the way it protects the walls when washing the floors.
Good video. Make sure to mention that you need to double check the load for the circuit as you don't want to overload it. Good job!
Just out of curiosity, what IF the load is too high for the circuit? Is a higher Amp circuit the answer? And, is that job a DIY, or does it require an electrician ( which are hard to find and get a response)?
That is one way to do it but in my case I ran a new 12 gauge wire from the load center to the garage and then at each 2x3.5 I cut a 2x1 inch hole on either side and drilled a hole through the 2x3.5 for the wire to run through. Added a GFCI outlet on the first of five outlets along the wall and the sixth exited the garage as an external weather proof addition. Patching is simple with a 30 minute patching compound and then a light coat of light drywall compound, sand prime and paint. Less wire involved is a bonus.
2x3.5? Did you mean the 1.5x3.5 actual or the standard nominal 2x4 dimension?
@@JT_70 Funny, yeah I though about that after I wrote it. 😀
Very Well Done. 12/2 with Ground. Ok as long as 1st feeder plug has GFIC and maybe Arc Fault built in. Nice.
As long as the breaker for the circuit matches the smallest wire size in the circuit, it will be fine. #14:15A, #12:20A. The best approach is to make sure the first receptacle is GFCI, as you suggest but use AF breakers.
Same method would be great for adding cable TV or internet cable drops in the house.
cable and internet are not as good an application if you need to use both drops. Ethernet doesn’t split well like this, if you are extending then maybe a coupler would be ok, but don’t try to splice one in
trick is you should be grafting, not splitting. my cousin grows apple trees and he showed me you can graft ethernet cables onto each other but you gotta remember to water them and not over-fertilize or else you wont get a gigabit link
@@mdjrsvbc14boys I was referring to how the cables can be hidden when running them in a finished space.
Obviously cat5 ethernet will need to be connected through a switch and cable will need a splitter or powered amp.
@@dobrovik Damn. That's where I screwed up.
Nice job and great presentation. No wasted time kibitzing, just “get er done”.
The main question that came to mind was whether or not the breaker that you were tying into was big enough to serve the usage that you want to put on it. Shop tools are often amp hogs so multiple plugs could put a strain on just a 15 amp breaker. This is not so much of a hazard as a potential nuisance if the breaker keeps popping. Otherwise, a nice, simple and 'clean' job.
Just a question and not a challenge. Is it really that big of an amp draw if you're technically only using one outlet at a time? If someone uses a shop tool that is, as you described, an amp hog, and there is only one outlet, wouldn't you get the same results as if there were 10 outlets and they only use 1 of them? Like I said, I'm not challenging your comment, I'm genuinely curious as I intend to add more outlets in my shop. Thank you for your comment.
@@woodandwheelz yeah that's why most shops run into trouble....they just keep adding onto the same circuit and before you know it you are tripping the breaker everything XXXX is used. Bc you ran that circuit with the air compressor or AC or the dryer or some such automatic draw attached. Ideally you'd like almost everything to ha e it's own dedicated outlet, but we all know that ain't happening so just be aware of what else in on the circuit.
Depends what you're using. Multiple saws? You'll never have them running at the same time. A saw and an air compressor that may kick on, a dust collector, a space heater, etc... could trip a breaker but just a nuisance.
I would imagine she checked that before she decided on this project.
She used yellow wire, 12 gauge that is good for 20 amps. Assuming the outlet she tied off of is also ran with 12 gauge and the garage is on its own beaker she should be fine.
Well done! Thanks for not going on and on with superfluous explanations about tools or wiring, or anything else!
Glad it was helpful!
@@AprilWilkerson For beginner DYI novices you should recommend checking the local and State building codes first.
Very clever tip. Initially I was worried about protection, but I was glad to see you adding nail plates. Baseboard hides many sins!
Glad it was helpful!
Did you have to make any changes to your service panel? Seems like running more things on that circuit would cause problems with breakers.
Good job April kudos for putting in those nail plates i have seen thing done without them and they are important.
Great job. I picked up a couple good tips from this video. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Hiding the cuts under the base board is brilliant!
You got talent! Great idea. Thnx👍
Love it! My workbench is in the basement against a concrete block wall, so I had to run conduit, but I think I'm going to do some interior rooms this way.
3/4" drywall, no insulation. Yea, this is the south.
My attached garage (AZ) isn’t insulated either. 🙄
My same thoughts! But now she added a work bench she might want to later.
Yep no insulation in the walls down south.
code frequently requires that garages be uninsulated :-/ ...with 2x drywall on the attached walls, if attached to the house.
@@TristanMorrow code?😂😂😂
Thank you so much for all your videos. I just bought a home here In Moreno Valley CA. And trust me. I will be seeing a lot of your Videos to help me improve my Home .Thank You Once again for all your help and hard work. 👍👍👍💯💯💯
Awesome! Glad you enjoy my channel. Thanks for watching.
@@AprilWilkerson You are very welcome. You do great and amazing job's. And all you're videos are well edited and very useful.
Great work April - very nicely done!
That is a lot of receptacles on one circuit in an area that might have high usage. I would have gone into the attic and dropped down a new circuit or two from the breaker box. Drill the top plate and fish the wires down.
I like the idea of this, as I have an older house, and could use more outlets, but am concerned with overloading circuits.
In a single-person workshop she might have a lot of tools plugged in but isn't going to be running them at the same time. At worst a charging station, a dust extraction system and a high-draw power tool on simultaneously. All those could be plugged into the original outlets she started from.
I think she's aware of her usage. At any rate, it's not like this poses any safety hazard.
Hello from France.
Texas the lone star state, they say !
I totally agree . The only star of Texas is Mrs Wilkerson !
Stay safe and take care.
That was a very neat way to get around your problem, I liked it!!!
The video is so detail and clear
It's helpful for daily
It's a talented lady.Like the video.
Thanks for sharing how to add new outlet.
Pretty slick April!! I just might do that!
Pretty cool. I was dreading adding more outlets. Thanks for the inspiration
AWESOME JOB GAL. YOU ROCK!
Those crescent wire strippers are the greatest thing since sliced bread!
Always cool to catch one of your videos 🤙🏾❤️
Glad you like them! I upload a video almost every Sunday. Thanks for watching.
It's so nice to see a girl not afraid to do a man's job. You're a keeper! Cheers 🥂
Extra plug sockets are always a clever idea in a garage / workspace. Just added a new socket for my new tig welder.
Well done. Definitely going to see if I can do this in my garage
April, I love your videos and you always talk safety but in this short maybe you should have mentioned that before you start make sure that you trip the breaker to the outlet and make sure it is dead.
You did a great job.
No INSULATION
No BLOCKING
EASY PEASY !!!!!
Ha, I recently did this method to install an outlet behind my tonal. Instead of notching out a space for the Romex I drilled a hole in the middle of the stud to run my wire through. It was a pain but it turned out well. I also had lots of insulation in the wall which I had to go through with the romex.
Thank you!
Nicely done April! 😃👍🏻👊🏻
This is awesome april. Thanks for the idea.
You are so welcome!
Thanks So Much and Hope Your Thanksgiving was Beautiful 🌞
Thank you, it was! Hope yours was great also. Thanks for watching.
We had an Amazing Celebration , Thank You !!
I’m so happy to have found Your Channel ……
Be Well 🌟
Love this! Thanks for the idea, especially in a work shop/garage area where the outlets are usually just charging things. Cheers!
Glad it was helpful!
Good technique, definitely working smarter and not harder - thanks for posting.
Glad it was helpful!
Only one problem… you need to run that through electrical conduit pipe .. nail plates are a good measure.. but that would not pass code due to run depth… when electricians run wire it is always back in the bay so it’s not making contact with wall and is at least 1 1/2” inches away from the back of wall board for general safety.. but at a baseboard you run into kick panel safety territory…. You need more hardened materials for all contingencies. Love the project though.. gave me some great ideas.
Thank you.
I plan on hiring an electrician to do just this exact job. Thanks to this video and the comments from other viewers, I feel much better equipped to evaluate which professional I will hire. Thank you all.
A professional electrician will not be doing it this way. Actually, don't hire an electrician that would do it this way.
April - I'm not sure your "behind the baseboard" technique saved any time vs simply cutting a 6-8" wide slot the length of the run, a little below the box height. If you position your slot to fall between drywall fasteners, it's simple to R&R a patch like this. This would have allowed you to fasten the cable near the boxes (your only code miss), saved some cable, and probably have saved time.
Is there no concern with removing parts of the wall studs holding up your outer walls?
That's what I was wondering. Surprised nobody gave an answer because it's the first thing my brain lit up with.
Good Job. Only comment would be no need for the push connectors. Just added an extra set of wires and another point of possible failure. If you pause it at the 7:33 mark you can see the extra wiring. Run the feed from the existing outlet to the bottom of the left receptacle. Run 2 wires from the top of the left one to the top of the right one. Then run the wires to the other outlet to the bottom of the right one. Will make the box less crowded and and eliminate the potential for future failure of the push connectors.
Some thoughts on this: Keep in mind that a notch cannot be more the 25% of the width of the stud. In the case of a 2x4 that would be .25*3.5=.88 which is about 7/8". At the bottom of the wall like that you also run the risk of running into the nails that are holding the studs to the bottom plate. Also to be considered is running 1/2" conduit in the notches... saves messing with the nail plates and staples. Me... that is an uncomfortable height at which to work. As such I'd be inclined to cut a path across the drywall at a more comfortable height, drill, wire and then patch the drywall... but that's me!
Her way means no drywall patching, but I admit I felt a little uncomfortable with it. Still, she made the job last a few hours instead of 2 or 3 days by the time you get the drywall patched.
@@jplflyer For me the drywall fix would be trivial compared to crawling around on the floor... By using a stab saw for the drywall, and drilling holes in the studs, it would be much quicker than using the oscillating saw and chisel and then dealing with the staples and nail plates. Taking those time savers into account, and using hot mud, the job could be done in a comparable amount of time. (To me the wall looks like it needs painting anyway.) But that's me... I understand that not everyone has the same skill sets and experience so either approach could be viable if you already own the oscillating saw. I wouldn't buy one for that one job!
@@johngrossbohlin7582 Code in Minnesota is the nail plates are required. Skipping that -- you're clearly better with drywall than I am, or maybe it's just a garage, and you're happy after one coat of mud.
But I hear you.
@@jplflyer My bad. I worded that poorly... I was referring to the staples and nail plates down by the floor and needing a punch to seat them. With hot mud (setting compound) the first coat could be ready for a second coat in 20-30 minutes. The second coat could be ready in another 20-30 minutes. If needed a thin third coat of an evaporative compound (e.g., all purpose) could be applied and be ready for sanding later that same day... Garage or not, I do fine woodworking (think hand cut dovetails, hand planed and scrapped surfaces, and in design applying the gold ratio and fibonacci sequence) so I'm not much on sloppy mudding. 😉
You also can't notch that close to the end of a stud.. this was a horrible diy..
Love it! I too have done the baseboard trick for power, and for ethernet cables - Definitely a great hack :)
Great video. I have some outlets to wire in on a existing wall.
Very timely video, as this is my very next diy project, adding 2 new outlets in my master bedroom. Due to some drywall work, the baseboard hadn’t been installed as yet. But there’s a switch I want to tap into for my power to the new outlets. I was planning on drilling a hole in the studs but I like the notching idea. Thanks for the video!
Glad you found it useful.
Gregg- there are concerns about tapping into a switched circuit for outlet power. Often lighting circuits are run on lower amperage circuits, with lower amperage breaker protection, (say 15A) . Adding an outlet (say, standard 20A) could allow more draw than it should handle. These types of things usually work out okay, but could cause the house to fail an inspection, or worse, in rare instances. Also, if a plugged-in appliance trips the breaker, the lights go out, making it less safe to respond in some cases.
@@keffective6650 Thanks for the info. I’ll keep that in mind. Good to know. Much appreciated.
Ron Hazelton has a baseboard tool for you. 😀
Very clever such a nice job. I will have to remember this.
2:16 is when I decided to hire an electrician.