I'm really impressed by how well this has been designed. The integrated hinges, having the electronics outside and the adjustments to the cables really take this design above a lot of other LACK enclosure options.
Nice video, however it would have been safer for you to precise to turn off and unplug the printer before wiring the led, some untrained persons might not think about it ... still a great video though!
WAGO is awesome! Nothing beats the genuine thing, we use them on exhibition booths to hook up power to LED lights and for many other things. Sending high-five to the WAGO office :) - Mikolas
Another build for my list, for sure! This is one of those designs where you know a lot of thought has been put into it - so many different aspects considered!
I find that the enclosure greatly helps reduce my printing issues, even with PLA. Turns out that air circulation from an A/C vent and ceiling fan in my printing room were causing adhesion and warping issues. With the bed fully protected from air circulation, many of my issues have gone away.
Wow, great innovations on the existing wealth of community LACK table enclosures. The integrated hinges are incredible. Well done Jo and team. Cheers, JAYTEE
IKEA is your friend. They sell the 'Gorm' modular storage system. I think the name has changed; same thing. The Gorm is basic shelving, all wood, and the shelves can be mounted at any level you like. The overall depth of the unit is about 54cm, width is 87cm. The uprights are wood too, so cutting them to length is a snap. I mounted foam-core panels on all but the front side, forming a chamber of sorts. A manifold and evacuation fan serve to make this thing a fume-hood as well. LED 'shop-light' mounted inside the Gorm gives ample, shadow-free lighting. That foam-core bounces light all day! The printer, filament and holder all sit on the same shelf inside the chamber. A removable draft-shield sits in front of the printer, [didn't want to close off the entire front side of the Gorm] and side drafts are not an issue. ABS prints very well in the chamber, and with the fume-hood arrangement, there is no odor at all.
Perfect timing. I bought 2 Lack tables last month. This design has all the features I was thinking about. Great! Just building a box on top for 'dry' filament storage.
The more recent extruder designs for MK2.5S/MK3S are not really safe to use inside an enclosure since you'll probably be running little or no part cooling fan. Heat builds up around the PINDA arm and the front cover and will eventually cause them to droop. I'm going to have to redo my entire MK2.5S assembly because mine is all messed up now since I print mostly PETG with no part cooling fan and didn't realize things were starting to deform until it was too late. I wish I had never upgraded my MK2S. The R5 versions are slightly improved but people are still having issues because the issue wasn't actually fixed, they just beefed up the amount of plastic on the extruder cover/body.
The Ikea-LACK also adds torsional stiffness and rigidity to the printer-frame, which is very pertinent for an i3 design & clones! I use an upside-down LACK on top of a regular LACK with a three-point contact in between the two LACKs to eliminate all effects of an uneven ground-surface, and this works beautifully for me.
Excellent design! The only thing missing are HEPA and Charcoal filters as just enclosing the printer does not eliminate the odor or the chemicals released by ABS printing, it just contains it until you open the doors.
Hey, great comment. Out of interest what filters would you use in this design and where would you mount them? I'm thinking of making it myself so would be good to know. Cheers
i would place something like this in the back acrylic: www.cremashop.eu/en/products/wilfa/ap-1-ap-3-filter-set/1160?gclid=Cj0KCQjwzcbWBRDmARIsAM6uChXkpv1GxtpVB53nCYMx2UCygOGIlIfiFCkCZj6ETJWTNIDBhLcBKUQaAlG2EALw_wcB. place some 120mm fans in front of it to turn on after the print, so it filters all of the air inside
I made a low budget version of a filtering system: 2 replacement Charcoal filters for soldering fume removal ( 2,90€ from www.pollin.de/p/ersatzfilter-fuer-loetdampf-absauger-840140 ) and a Hepa Filter for vacuum cleaners (about 3,40€ from a local store). You can put it on the side of your encosure, combined with a 120mm fan. Maybe it is not a perfect solution, but for me it works just fine, and filters out the unpleasant fumes.
That's why you put a good air filter for the whole room as most people have more than 1 printer it will reduce electricity and keep temperature and moisture at a constant
There is two points to consider before putting this together. Ikea, and Ikea Lack in special, has hollow legs. Except for bottom and top, where they put a small conglomerated wood square, all the rest is hollow. Do not put much weight on it. The other important point is how the legs are attached to the top. On the upper corner standoffs installation, you need to use the original Lack screws (somehow) otherwise the corners will be attached to the top with a screw, but the leg only on 2 walls, with a small screw. ANY lateral move will either break the plastic corner, or the leg itself. Happened to me.
I love this idea. I had a spare Lack table hanging around for years. Luckily for me, the black Lack table was on sale so I picked up 2 more. Just waiting for my i3 MK3S to show up tomorrow and then I can start to assemble and print some cool parts.
So about the heat bed cable. Looking at the movement at 3:40, it looks like if someone were to print something moderately high in that corner, the cable would hit the print. This isn't good. Wouldn't it be better to angle the cable 90° up rather than 90° away from the Einsy? It looks like the cable would be less strained that way too. Any reason you didn't go that route?
I'm considering doing this but using tempered glass (extreme heat resistance) and covering all of the wood areas with hardiebacker board (fire resistant) so I can essentially make a fire resistant enclosure. Also the smoke detector inside the enclosure that kills power if smoke is detected. I think using the above design would work great with those modifications, assuming the tempered glass isn't too heavy for the hinges.
Hi guys, i have an issue with the PSU holder. My model came with a black PSU and it doesn't have either the bracket to keep it "Hanging" nor does it fit properly in the holder below it(the PSU is roughly 1cm bigger). do you have any solution already made for that or do i have to design a holder myself? if it's already out there i'd rather save the 4 hours in designing the whole thing myself. regardless of that GREAT enclosure, 10/10 would recomend doing it
You could put another Lack on top to keep the filament free from dust (at my place, dust builds up quite quickly). Also, if you seal the plexiglass windows, and put some moisture eating stuff inside, they might keep dry too. Same for the bottom part; I'd put some windows in there too. It all becomes so dusty quite quickly.
As the prusa printers use petg make sure the enclosure temperature does not go above 55C as that will cause some parts (like stepper motor parts) to deform.
thank you so much for the advice about adding a smoke detector. I had a problem with my heated bed and probably would have lead to a house fire if I hadn't followed your sugestion. the smoke detector save me for what could have been a very bad situation.
October 21, 2020 at 00:16 Can you please give a link to the actual “Photo studio tent”? The one you have links to ebay is for the entire class of tents, some too small. Or if it is on Amazon, the sku or internet or part number. Thanks. I’m overwhelmed at what I have to do to start printing.
Would it be feasible to 3D print the enclosure out of PLA or other cheap filament that can be printed at low temperatures? I can get wood, metal and glass for a conventional enclosure but I would love to 3D print it.
Just finished printing some lack brackets on a friends printer while I wait for my mk3. Looks like I will be reprinting them for this amazing design once my printer comes
If you place the spools on top of the Ikea enclosure the whole setup tends to wobble specially when doing the infill. And again - especially with infill like gyroid. The resonance will in some cases have an effect on the prints. If you can, place the spools on a shelf above the Ikea enclosure.
4:05 how do you secure the tables when adding more to the stack, to ensure they can't be knocked off accidentally? The video doesn't look like there are any printed parts securing the bottom two tables together?
I was looking at the same thing, thinking of using brackets to screw into place or these: www.thingiverse.com/thing:2920781 www.thingiverse.com/thing:2201733
Josef you are my man you dont know how you help me with this video you the best thanks man i can buold it with your way with 10 is cheaper the parts here in cyprus respect to your work man
Warning about printing PLA at room temp: PLA does not print just fine when A/C is on. Having major warping issues on my prints. I did a test of printing without the A/C on and the same print with A/C on. When A/C was off, the print did not lift at the edges. When A/C was turned on, the edges lifted.
Yes! I'm especially curious because I wouldn't know where to connect an led strip, since there's the external power brick, and because it looks like the spool needs to feed from the side and wouldn't work from the top. Can't wait to get mine :)
@@matteocristini6221 I ordered on the first day and still haven't gotten mine. Very disappointing when you see they have already started shipping by now :(
This is really awesome from Prusa Research to provide such great "after-sales" goodies! It would be great if additional parts like external housing for external Raspberry/Octoprint would be released also which fit's into the enclosure. Prusa ... keep it up like this!!!!
Another good reason to make this is so you can better filter the smells/toxins from ALL printing material not just ABS. You might think you don't need this for PLA, but you do.
People that say that heat damages the electronics always say that the PRUSA print farm is a lot hotter than 35 degrees and still the printers run there. Why do you now say that this can be dangerous? Do you cool your print farm significantly? People (who seem to have been there) said that it is hot? Super cool enclosure by the way! THANKS!
Despite the animation, they didn't say it was dangerous, they said it can significantly shorten a power supply's life span. I don't think they are worrying about the life span of equipment in the print farm, since it is already printing almost 24/7 and it's also just the cost of doing business if they have to replace them more often. :)
ok. Thanks. But it might still not be perfect for us that only have 1 printer I will try to get the PSU outside, but the LEDs and stuff later. Too much fiddling after I will have assembled the whole printer :D
VictorSteiner Simply buy an other power supply to be mount at the table and good quality connectors able to handle the current. So you can leave the original power supply in place (Turned off it will not suffer from 40°C), insert the connectors into the 24V-Line and swap between original and external powersource. It will be make transport oft the printer much more easy also.
The bottom could also be enclosed with MDF boards. With a door you could hide all the tools and cleaning supplies but still have easy access. There's been talk about "ghosting" or "ringing". They've been suggesting a concrete paving stone to increase the mass and reduce the printer movement. Is it worth considering changing the table to secure the printer?
It's Ikea lack. Bottom legs are held very poorly, joins are not rigid, so increasing mass would only induce more stress on the joins. I used dowell pins and D2 glue and printed feet so that it's as level as possible, now it's stiffer than a teenager in the morning
So our 3D printer sits on a work bench, so I can only use on Lack table. What I'd like to do is mount the Lack table on a worktop off cut or directly to the workbench?
I want to set up something like this in an unheated aircraft hangar. Temperatures can go below freezing in the winter. Would normal heat generated by the printer in this enclosure be sufficient to keep the environment warm enough to print or would I need an auxiliary heater of some sort? Would I need a cooling fan?
Hello Prusa staff, just a question please. What about warranty coverage when we print in a lack eclosure ? Do you still cover printer even when moving PSU away from the printer and printing in a hotter environment ? EINSY board, motors, fans, petg printed components are subjected to a higher temperature stress. Will my printer still be considered under warrany in such case ? Thank you
I've been trying to get the files to print this but I think a lot of the links are broken at the moment. also the links on the prusa blog for Frame brace to replace PSU and heatbed cable covers etc are all not working...
I give you guys 5 stars I was on the fence only because an enclosure would seem to be a bit of work so I went with a flyingbear p905x as the frame is easy to cover but this thing will take a lifetime to build for a beginner/intermediate person to build im getting another next week and I think this sold me on getting a prusa i3
There is no temprature data of after using this encloser, and I don't know the maximum working temprature for the step motor and the belt, so I have to ask, Does enclosure like this hurt the printer ?
That's a great enclosure and I love the video. However, you should add a temperature controlled ventilation - which is definitely possible, but adds some more wiring and complexity... For those, who love tinkering, but don't have too much time: what about offering an official Prusa enclosure kit? I'd pay for it gladely
I've just finished building this enclosure. My hope was this would help with printing nylon - taulman bridge. I thought the enclosure would increase the temperature quite a lot - plus 20 / 30 degrees celcius and help reduce warping when the filament cools. The enclosure temperature increased about 1 degree?? Do the gaps around the plexi glass just let out all the heat? I'm fairly disappointed with this enclosure as its turned out to be a glorified wind break.
Great stuff here. A big thanks to the developers. But don't let the elevator music fool you into believing this was a sunday morning build! Expect to run into unexpected problems.
Interesting that they went for the little holes to feed the filament in. I sometimes worry that even my very broad slit is not enough. These little holes make me nervous :D
i have a tevo tarantula with the larger bed size and was wondering if i could get dimensions between the plexiglass sides? I am trying to figure out if the lack tables will work or if i will have to increase the depth for the bed being longer in the Y axis
What’s the size of the plexiglas for the 3 sides and what’s about the size of the doors. How many cm? What i have seen it is 3mm thick, but I didn’t find any dimensions. Can anyone help me?
I've got a table which is just the right height for my printers, can I just make 2 top table set ups, or is there going to be a gap at the bottom without the bottom table?
I've been checking out 3d printers and I came across a lot of MK4 videos. Looks like a great printer and with this enclosure, thats another big bonus/ BTW do the reels need to be dried before use? Perhaps make compartment with same parts but shortened , add a small fan and desiccant dehumidifier? I think that would appeal to a lot of people. I haven't purchased a printer yet but I'm drawn to the Prusa MK4 or a Bamboo. After watching a few of your videos, I'm leaning more towards the MK4. Also do you ship to South Korea?
I will say one this with many designs this one forgets one thing. Heat build up with in the enclosure on the main board and the stepper controller's. They have done it with the power supply. Why not remove and extend the control main board wiring that you can mount it in a printed case outside and under the enclosure. This will prolong the life of the board and stepper motor controllers?? One thing I've been thinking off is using something like this. That is outside of the enclosure but feeding into it. www.instructables.com/id/Air-CoolerHeater/ Will help with fast cooling of PLA. But on heating if wired in with a good temp cotroller. Will keep inside the enclosure a warm and stable temp all around the whole print. So not just the slow build up of temp from the heater plate to do this.
hello, im looking forward to getting the lack enclosure to work! just one question though: because im really new to 3dprinting i dont know how much 1Kg rolls of orange prusa pla will be needed to print the parts. can somebody answer me so i can order the right amount and is there enough space to fit the ORIGINAL PRUSA I3 MULTI MATERIAL - kit inside if i want to upgrade
I would like to know how this constructions performs in different printing situations, like if it is shaking around while printing or if this is stable enough so it doesn´t move at all while printing.
Dude, it's so nice that you actually help us get cheap stuff and not try to rip us off with some overpriced product.
I think because it is Prusa ideology :)
Probably doesn't run a modern day slave shop. R&D costs time and money. You pick.
I'm really impressed by how well this has been designed. The integrated hinges, having the electronics outside and the adjustments to the cables really take this design above a lot of other LACK enclosure options.
Lots of great little design considerations here.. awesome!
Nice video, however it would have been safer for you to precise to turn off and unplug the printer before wiring the led, some untrained persons might not think about it ... still a great video though!
@@BloodshedPAC commented to the wrong feed. Make anything didn't upload this lol
I wonder if this works for Ender 3 though. It seems a bit taller than Prusa MK3
uyi
@@BloodshedPAC the led lights are 1. at low voltage and 2. the did it with the power off then they just did a scene change
Quite possibly the definitive lack enclosure for Prusa machines. Great content as always!
I work for WAGO, and I just bought a MK3S, couldnt be happier to see the 221s being used here. One part off the list for me.
WAGO is awesome! Nothing beats the genuine thing, we use them on exhibition booths to hook up power to LED lights and for many other things. Sending high-five to the WAGO office :) - Mikolas
This application of an IKEA table is an ingenious idea... in many ways surpassing designing a 3D Printer!
Another build for my list, for sure! This is one of those designs where you know a lot of thought has been put into it - so many different aspects considered!
I find that the enclosure greatly helps reduce my printing issues, even with PLA. Turns out that air circulation from an A/C vent and ceiling fan in my printing room were causing adhesion and warping issues. With the bed fully protected from air circulation, many of my issues have gone away.
Thats the reason I'm making one. Started having issues with prints when the AC kicked on during summer.
Wow, great innovations on the existing wealth of community LACK table enclosures. The integrated hinges are incredible. Well done Jo and team. Cheers, JAYTEE
Fantastic design elements have gone into this. Or to put it in Prusa parlance, normal service.
Haha, nice
Gotta say this version of the Lack enclosure is extremely slick. Those hinges are beautiful.
IKEA is your friend.
They sell the 'Gorm' modular storage system. I think the name has changed; same thing.
The Gorm is basic shelving, all wood, and the shelves can be mounted at any level you like.
The overall depth of the unit is about 54cm, width is 87cm.
The uprights are wood too, so cutting them to length is a snap.
I mounted foam-core panels on all but the front side, forming a chamber of sorts.
A manifold and evacuation fan serve to make this thing a fume-hood as well.
LED 'shop-light' mounted inside the Gorm gives ample, shadow-free lighting. That foam-core bounces light all day!
The printer, filament and holder all sit on the same shelf inside the chamber.
A removable draft-shield sits in front of the printer, [didn't want to close off the entire front side of the Gorm] and side drafts are not an issue.
ABS prints very well in the chamber, and with the fume-hood arrangement, there is no odor at all.
Greg Gallacci could you send me photos of your enclosure?
Prusa i love you !!!!!!! TOP 3d PRINTER!
gjhk
This is... genius! I want my brain to think like this! That is why I think I should buy a 3d printer, right now. Thanks!!
Perfect timing. I bought 2 Lack tables last month. This design has all the features I was thinking about. Great! Just building a box on top for 'dry' filament storage.
The more recent extruder designs for MK2.5S/MK3S are not really safe to use inside an enclosure since you'll probably be running little or no part cooling fan. Heat builds up around the PINDA arm and the front cover and will eventually cause them to droop.
I'm going to have to redo my entire MK2.5S assembly because mine is all messed up now since I print mostly PETG with no part cooling fan and didn't realize things were starting to deform until it was too late. I wish I had never upgraded my MK2S.
The R5 versions are slightly improved but people are still having issues because the issue wasn't actually fixed, they just beefed up the amount of plastic on the extruder cover/body.
The Ikea-LACK also adds torsional stiffness and rigidity to the printer-frame, which is very pertinent for an i3 design & clones! I use an upside-down LACK on top of a regular LACK with a three-point contact in between the two LACKs to eliminate all effects of an uneven ground-surface, and this works beautifully for me.
I was thinking of something like this, but with an airtight compartment above with a ton of desiccant to make a low humidity room for the filament
Excellent design! The only thing missing are HEPA and Charcoal filters as just enclosing the printer does not eliminate the odor or the chemicals released by ABS printing, it just contains it until you open the doors.
Hey, great comment. Out of interest what filters would you use in this design and where would you mount them? I'm thinking of making it myself so would be good to know.
Cheers
i would place something like this in the back acrylic: www.cremashop.eu/en/products/wilfa/ap-1-ap-3-filter-set/1160?gclid=Cj0KCQjwzcbWBRDmARIsAM6uChXkpv1GxtpVB53nCYMx2UCygOGIlIfiFCkCZj6ETJWTNIDBhLcBKUQaAlG2EALw_wcB.
place some 120mm fans in front of it to turn on after the print, so it filters all of the air inside
I made a low budget version of a filtering system: 2 replacement Charcoal filters for soldering fume removal ( 2,90€ from www.pollin.de/p/ersatzfilter-fuer-loetdampf-absauger-840140 )
and a Hepa Filter for vacuum cleaners (about 3,40€ from a local store). You can put it on the side of your encosure, combined with a 120mm fan. Maybe it is not a perfect solution, but for me it works just fine, and filters out the unpleasant fumes.
That's why you put a good air filter for the whole room as most people have more than 1 printer it will reduce electricity and keep temperature and moisture at a constant
idk about you, but most people i know have only 1 printer. maybe 2
There is two points to consider before putting this together.
Ikea, and Ikea Lack in special, has hollow legs. Except for bottom and top, where they put a small conglomerated wood square, all the rest is hollow. Do not put much weight on it.
The other important point is how the legs are attached to the top.
On the upper corner standoffs installation, you need to use the original Lack screws (somehow) otherwise the corners will be attached to the top with a screw, but the leg only on 2 walls, with a small screw. ANY lateral move will either break the plastic corner, or the leg itself. Happened to me.
Hey! I gotta say, I've been a naysayer critic, but after seeing this... well, I was wrong. Simply outstanding. Thx.
I can definitely see the similarities between the Lack enclosure and the new Prusa enclosure!
Great to see, what happens if Josef Prusa and his team design a printer enclosure. Really good stuff!
videos like this are why I just ordered a mk 4 instead of a bamboo
I love this idea. I had a spare Lack table hanging around for years. Luckily for me, the black Lack table was on sale so I picked up 2 more. Just waiting for my i3 MK3S to show up tomorrow and then I can start to assemble and print some cool parts.
this has to be the first things i print on my prusa when i arrives :D
I was watching this, not realizing I was in the presence of Prusa himself!
So about the heat bed cable. Looking at the movement at 3:40, it looks like if someone were to print something moderately high in that corner, the cable would hit the print. This isn't good. Wouldn't it be better to angle the cable 90° up rather than 90° away from the Einsy? It looks like the cable would be less strained that way too. Any reason you didn't go that route?
I'm considering doing this but using tempered glass (extreme heat resistance) and covering all of the wood areas with hardiebacker board (fire resistant) so I can essentially make a fire resistant enclosure. Also the smoke detector inside the enclosure that kills power if smoke is detected. I think using the above design would work great with those modifications, assuming the tempered glass isn't too heavy for the hinges.
Hi guys, i have an issue with the PSU holder. My model came with a black PSU and it doesn't have either the bracket to keep it "Hanging" nor does it fit properly in the holder below it(the PSU is roughly 1cm bigger). do you have any solution already made for that or do i have to design a holder myself? if it's already out there i'd rather save the 4 hours in designing the whole thing myself.
regardless of that GREAT enclosure, 10/10 would recomend doing it
After designing my own lack parts and halfway done printing I see this
I feel the same way! I glued the legs to the table for improved stability so I am too far gone to try this.
I find the LACK of faith in your own design disturbing. Heh...get it...lack...because lack...
I have to redesign some of these parts for my Ender 3
@@kerbodynamicx472 What parts did you have to redesign?
You could put another Lack on top to keep the filament free from dust (at my place, dust builds up quite quickly). Also, if you seal the plexiglass windows, and put some moisture eating stuff inside, they might keep dry too. Same for the bottom part; I'd put some windows in there too. It all becomes so dusty quite quickly.
3:39 Why would you bend the cable in that direction instead of towards the power supply? What am I missing here?
As the prusa printers use petg make sure the enclosure temperature does not go above 55C as that will cause some parts (like stepper motor parts) to deform.
I'm new to 3D Printing and just found this video. An inspiring idea for the IKEA LACK enclosure.
thank you so much for the advice about adding a smoke detector. I had a problem with my heated bed and probably would have lead to a house fire if I hadn't followed your sugestion. the smoke detector save me for what could have been a very bad situation.
Awesome ideas, great team, best product ever!
I Will order my PRUSA and Ikea Lack in few days, can't wait!!
Thanks for your great work guys 🙌
October 21, 2020 at 00:16
Can you please give a link to the actual “Photo studio tent”? The one you have links to ebay is for the entire class of tents, some too small. Or if it is on Amazon, the sku or internet or part number. Thanks.
I’m overwhelmed at what I have to do to start printing.
Would it be feasible to 3D print the enclosure out of PLA or other cheap filament that can be printed at low temperatures? I can get wood, metal and glass for a conventional enclosure but I would love to 3D print it.
Just finished printing some lack brackets on a friends printer while I wait for my mk3. Looks like I will be reprinting them for this amazing design once my printer comes
This is why I will buy a 2nd Prusa - wow thanks guys, very very much!
If you place the spools on top of the Ikea enclosure the whole setup tends to wobble specially when doing the infill. And again - especially with infill like gyroid. The resonance will in some cases have an effect on the prints.
If you can, place the spools on a shelf above the Ikea enclosure.
Bomba !! Nenapadlo by mě, že je to tak snadné... Jsem Váš nový fanda !!
And with some GT2 belt, and some modification to the hinges, you can make them open simultaneously whether you open the left or the right door
4:05 how do you secure the tables when adding more to the stack, to ensure they can't be knocked off accidentally?
The video doesn't look like there are any printed parts securing the bottom two tables together?
I was looking at the same thing, thinking of using brackets to screw into place or these:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:2920781
www.thingiverse.com/thing:2201733
Looking for a Ender 3 Pro frame replacement (for removing the PSU from the frame). Making the enclosure for my Ender 3 Pro.
Josef you are my man you dont know how you help me with this video you the best thanks man i can buold it with your way with 10 is cheaper the parts here in cyprus respect to your work man
I like the trusty cardboard box lined with tinfoil. It's more or less free and you can easily hit 50 degrees+.
Warning about printing PLA at room temp: PLA does not print just fine when A/C is on. Having major warping issues on my prints. I did a test of printing without the A/C on and the same print with A/C on. When A/C was off, the print did not lift at the edges. When A/C was turned on, the edges lifted.
Very nice look, simple idea. I love the use of the Ikea table :)
You should do another one for the Prusa Mini! I pre-ordered and would like to see something similar for the mini! :) Great job!
Yes! I'm especially curious because I wouldn't know where to connect an led strip, since there's the external power brick, and because it looks like the spool needs to feed from the side and wouldn't work from the top. Can't wait to get mine :)
@@matteocristini6221 I ordered on the first day and still haven't gotten mine. Very disappointing when you see they have already started shipping by now :(
@@akshayd211 I guess it might depend on where you live, not sure though...
This is really awesome from Prusa Research to provide such great "after-sales" goodies! It would be great if additional parts like external housing for external Raspberry/Octoprint would be released also which fit's into the enclosure. Prusa ... keep it up like this!!!!
I always love your instructional videos. Thanks for sharing this!!
Isn't heatbed cable colliding with print space at 3:41 ?
Oops, clearly you don't want to print something high in that corner. :)
The photo tent looks like a great way to go !
Another good reason to make this is so you can better filter the smells/toxins from ALL printing material not just ABS. You might think you don't need this for PLA, but you do.
People that say that heat damages the electronics always say that the PRUSA print farm is a lot hotter than 35 degrees and still the printers run there. Why do you now say that this can be dangerous? Do you cool your print farm significantly? People (who seem to have been there) said that it is hot?
Super cool enclosure by the way! THANKS!
Despite the animation, they didn't say it was dangerous, they said it can significantly shorten a power supply's life span. I don't think they are worrying about the life span of equipment in the print farm, since it is already printing almost 24/7 and it's also just the cost of doing business if they have to replace them more often. :)
ok. Thanks. But it might still not be perfect for us that only have 1 printer I will try to get the PSU outside, but the LEDs and stuff later. Too much fiddling after I will have assembled the whole printer :D
VictorSteiner Simply buy an other power supply to be mount at the table and good quality connectors able to handle the current. So you can leave the original power supply in place (Turned off it will not suffer from 40°C), insert the connectors into the 24V-Line and swap between original and external powersource. It will be make transport oft the printer much more easy also.
What are the interior dimensions of the enclosure once it is completed?
The bottom could also be enclosed with MDF boards. With a door you could hide all the tools and cleaning supplies but still have easy access. There's been talk about "ghosting" or "ringing". They've been suggesting a concrete paving stone to increase the mass and reduce the printer movement. Is it worth considering changing the table to secure the printer?
It's Ikea lack. Bottom legs are held very poorly, joins are not rigid, so increasing mass would only induce more stress on the joins. I used dowell pins and D2 glue and printed feet so that it's as level as possible, now it's stiffer than a teenager in the morning
So our 3D printer sits on a work bench, so I can only use on Lack table. What I'd like to do is mount the Lack table on a worktop off cut or directly to the workbench?
Best looking enclosure and great design.
That's freaking brilliant. I'm totally doing this.
Always taking things a step further. Great design.
I want to set up something like this in an unheated aircraft hangar. Temperatures can go below freezing in the winter. Would normal heat generated by the printer in this enclosure be sufficient to keep the environment warm enough to print or would I need an auxiliary heater of some sort? Would I need a cooling fan?
Hello there, did someone tried to fork this for a « Prusa mini » ? What will be changed for such a small printer ?
Hello Prusa staff, just a question please.
What about warranty coverage when we print in a lack eclosure ? Do you still cover printer even when moving PSU away from the printer and printing in a hotter environment ? EINSY board, motors, fans, petg printed components are subjected to a higher temperature stress. Will my printer still be considered under warrany in such case ?
Thank you
For a moment there I thought they released a new bookshelf variant... this is brilliant :D
I've been trying to get the files to print this but I think a lot of the links are broken at the moment. also the links on the prusa blog for Frame brace to replace PSU and heatbed cable covers etc are all not working...
The frame stengthener instead of the psu isn't on the website, where can I get the model?
I give you guys 5 stars I was on the fence only because an enclosure would seem to be a bit of work so I went with a flyingbear p905x as the frame is easy to cover but this thing will take a lifetime to build for a beginner/intermediate person to build im getting another next week and I think this sold me on getting a prusa i3
Where can I find the "Alternative Right Angle Version" of the Heatbed Cable Cover?
Where do you get the smoke detector / what is the spec on that?
I'd love to see this updated to fit the multi material upgrade 2.0
2:03 It's so silly and so good
There is no temprature data of after using this encloser, and I don't know the maximum working temprature for the step motor and the belt, so I have to ask, Does enclosure like this hurt the printer ?
Is it not important to move the Einsy board outside the enclosure as well? Is that able to withstand higher temperatures better than the PSU?
You are wonderful Josef, I love it!
Does this enclosure leave enough room for the mutli material upgrade?
checked with Prusa online help, and see below link!!
www.thingiverse.com/thing:3296106
That's a great enclosure and I love the video. However, you should add a temperature controlled ventilation - which is definitely possible, but adds some more wiring and complexity...
For those, who love tinkering, but don't have too much time: what about offering an official Prusa enclosure kit? I'd pay for it gladely
Nice building!
For what do you need two tables? Why not just Polycarbonate on the top without a second table?
Where i can find this support 3:20?
I've just finished building this enclosure. My hope was this would help with printing nylon - taulman bridge. I thought the enclosure would increase the temperature quite a lot - plus 20 / 30 degrees celcius and help reduce warping when the filament cools. The enclosure temperature increased about 1 degree?? Do the gaps around the plexi glass just let out all the heat?
I'm fairly disappointed with this enclosure as its turned out to be a glorified wind break.
And you can also get some good quality video footage of printing using the phototent!
Great stuff here. A big thanks to the developers. But don't let the elevator music fool you into believing this was a sunday morning build! Expect to run into unexpected problems.
Interesting that they went for the little holes to feed the filament in. I sometimes worry that even my very broad slit is not enough. These little holes make me nervous :D
i have a tevo tarantula with the larger bed size and was wondering if i could get dimensions between the plexiglass sides? I am trying to figure out if the lack tables will work or if i will have to increase the depth for the bed being longer in the Y axis
What is the internal height of this enclosure with the printed parts added? 18 inches or taller?
good project, so inspiring. Thank you for sharing what you know.
Hello, excuse me the size of the wooden studs is 40 x 40 mm or larger. Thank you
What’s the size of the plexiglas for the 3 sides and what’s about the size of the doors. How many cm? What i have seen it is 3mm thick, but I didn’t find any dimensions. Can anyone help me?
I've got a table which is just the right height for my printers, can I just make 2 top table set ups, or is there going to be a gap at the bottom without the bottom table?
I love the hinges built in, the only reason I have not put my doors on yet is because of the hinges :)
Black and orange are the company colors. :)
Donovan Long I know the company colours are black and orange, I don’t understand what your comment has to do with mine
I've been checking out 3d printers and I came across a lot of MK4 videos. Looks like a great printer and with this enclosure, thats another big bonus/ BTW do the reels need to be dried before use? Perhaps make compartment with same parts but shortened , add a small fan and desiccant dehumidifier? I think that would appeal to a lot of people.
I haven't purchased a printer yet but I'm drawn to the Prusa MK4 or a Bamboo. After watching a few of your videos, I'm leaning more towards the MK4. Also do you ship to South Korea?
Hello looks good but can i do this with a Prusa mini + and is the mother board ok inside an enclosure many thanks
I will say one this with many designs this one forgets one thing. Heat build up with in the enclosure on the main board and the stepper controller's. They have done it with the power supply. Why not remove and extend the control main board wiring that you can mount it in a printed case outside and under the enclosure. This will prolong the life of the board and stepper motor controllers?? One thing I've been thinking off is using something like this. That is outside of the enclosure but feeding into it.
www.instructables.com/id/Air-CoolerHeater/
Will help with fast cooling of PLA.
But on heating if wired in with a good temp cotroller. Will keep inside the enclosure a warm and stable temp all around the whole print. So not just the slow build up of temp from the heater plate to do this.
Nice! An enclosure for the filament would be useful too for nylon and such.
Where would I get the parts to build an enclosure ?
Is it possible to make this wall mountable or able to be placed on a shelf? As in keep the Upper half?
hello, im looking forward to getting the lack enclosure to work! just one question though: because im really new to 3dprinting i dont know how much 1Kg rolls of orange prusa pla will be needed to print the parts. can somebody answer me so i can order the right amount
and is there enough space to fit the ORIGINAL PRUSA I3
MULTI MATERIAL - kit inside if i want to upgrade
I would like to know how this constructions performs in different printing situations, like if it is shaking around while printing or if this is stable enough so it doesn´t move at all while printing.