Jamal, I totally agree that the original design of the rear main seal is superior to the upgraded version if installed properly. From a machinist's (not automotive) standpoint is all about precision and accuracy, plus as you pointed out, breathing. The desire and passion we have does not always overcome the lack of knowledge of specific tasks and results in the dumb decisions we sometimes make. I include myself in that. Great instructive videos from someone who actually knows what he's talking about.
Jemal, what about if you fit and torque up the main caps first, then fit that half-moon cap last, pushing hard down on the lower half of the rear main cap, you could not fit it too proud even if you tried, and therefore it would be a perfect seal with the rear main cap?
This information is indispensable. I’m currently building a sloppy street 1275 with lightened rods and custom machines steel strap for the Center main cap. Do you disagree with ARP’s torque specs for main caps at 80 ft/lbs? I torqued mine to 70 ft/lbs and the crank felt tighter on the main bearings. Could just be my imagination.
No way 80 is way too high. The threads are only 7/16 and the correct number is 60. ARP usually gives lower numbers when using their magic thread lube! Aftermarket 4-bolt caps usually use studs so careful with fine-thread nuts! I've used the MED main caps and follow their recommendations. They use regular oil on the threads and flanges.
Jamal, I totally agree that the original design of the rear main seal is superior to the upgraded version if installed properly. From a machinist's (not automotive) standpoint is all about precision and accuracy, plus as you pointed out, breathing. The desire and passion we have does not always overcome the lack of knowledge of specific tasks and results in the dumb decisions we sometimes make. I include myself in that. Great instructive videos from someone who actually knows what he's talking about.
Jemal, what about if you fit and torque up the main caps first, then fit that half-moon cap last, pushing hard down on the lower half of the rear main cap, you could not fit it too proud even if you tried, and therefore it would be a perfect seal with the rear main cap?
That's the best approach if that little hat has been removed, or is obviously installed poorly.
This information is indispensable. I’m currently building a sloppy street 1275 with lightened rods and custom machines steel strap for the Center main cap. Do you disagree with ARP’s torque specs for main caps at 80 ft/lbs? I torqued mine to 70 ft/lbs and the crank felt tighter on the main bearings. Could just be my imagination.
No way 80 is way too high. The threads are only 7/16 and the correct number is 60. ARP usually gives lower numbers when using their magic thread lube! Aftermarket 4-bolt caps usually use studs so careful with fine-thread nuts! I've used the MED main caps and follow their recommendations. They use regular oil on the threads and flanges.
@@JemalCRM amazing. Thank you!