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$26000 in 3 Days ( Rotten Column Replacement Job )
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 19 ส.ค. 2024
- #welding #bigmoney #fabrication Big Tom and I are at it again! This time on the biggest job Tom has been on since becoming a independent Mobile Welder. Nerves are high and time is short. With only 3 days to replace these columns ( non of which are uniform) can me and big Tom pull it off for a BIG payday? Watch and find out how we tackle this one.
Instagram : @meltinmetalmobile
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Big TOM for the Win......
*@**26:50** Anthony calls it **_'Lancing'_** . Big Tom calls it **_'Hot Rodding'_** . Up here we call that **_'The Hot Foot'_** . :-) Love your series, you need some B-Roll like you and Big Tom rolling up on a Florida strip club in the work truck putting down some steaks and high end nachos.*
This certainly looks like one of those ‘fun’ jobs. I recently did a similar one (though on a much smaller scale).
There are two things I’d like to point out and one thing I’d like to verbally (virtually) appreciate. The latter first: Tom’s trick of intentionally poking holes with the welder is clever, I’ll keep that one in mind. As for my two points, every time the grinder was running I saw sparks landing on the warehouse stock and it made me cringe a little because I recently was guilty of ruining a customer’s windows after showering them with sparks which instantly melted into the glass.
The other thing I wanted to mention is - cold cut blades for circular saws exist and they are FAST and AMAZING. I bought one recently and used it for the aforementioned job and it cut steel tube in 30 seconds that took several minutes to cut with the grinder. My mistake was cutting a post that had somehow gotten a handful of sand in it and the blade hated that very much, which is why I know how long the grinder took to cut the last few posts 😜
I love the videos and I love your way of explaining as a new guy in the industry actual constructive feedback is a rarity but it is nice to see there are old timers willing to teach without all the rude bs
at 29 min when hammering anchor bolts, you can screw a nut on the very tip to protect the beginning threads of bolt. Just a welder giving a tip to another welder
Never done it any other way
A tip for using self tappers in thick metal. Rock the impact/drill in a circle until the threads start biting, this drills a slightly over size hole so the threads dont have as much to cut. We use this to self tap into thick I beam and such when we build large weld up metal buildings.
I’ll have to try that for sure thanks
Just upsize the holes a 1/6 next time and get a skill saw with a metal cutting blade. Or a chop saw. That bandsaw is for handrail. Also a reemer is always good to have when the holes don't line up
Im doing the same thing on a train rack at a chemical plant. The guys who built it didnt put drain holes on the bottom of the vertical support columns and left the tops open. The ice that formed inside during the winter literally burst the tubing.
I like this kind of videos where you show real work problems you face on the job and how you deal with it
Hey Meltin Metal, just a tip on anything structural you should always use that epoxy when tacking to concrete, I've done concrete foundations for little over 7 years now and we use it everytime we drill into concrete. I'm just saying don't let it be customer request make it mandatory to secure yourself and make a better name! Keep doing great man!
ive heard mixed reviews from other fellows in your field. so its hard to say who right would make a great video doing a comparison
You really need to remove the dust from the hole before you use epoxy. Compressed air and some kind of appropriately sized brush, or the epoxy just sticks to the dust not the slab
@@stevenhunton9755 or a shop vac at least
Used to be a welder a lot of replies you can put epoxy in the holes for concrete anchors with out removing the concrete dust designed to hold any environment depending on what type of epoxy BTW i am from Florida and I did all the welding on Tropicana field i passed the certifications for the job when 5 or 10 welders couldn't and was with Meg uphill 052 gauge wire cast iron to steel for certain parts of the dome mainly structural supports nobody has ever heard of the type of wire for welding vertically
@@johnerichard4426 wow you must he the best there is.
Awesome content, keep up the good work bro. I love how are you go into details and talk about things that other channels won’t talk about
thanks!
Great job guys. Like others have said I enjoy watching the job as it unfolds, the good and the bad! Cheers!
You did an excellent job. Anything involving holes is a pita, lol. 2 things I cant live without on my truck - my plasma and not applicable on this job but my suitcases. Once you start using a suitcase you will never go back. Hell, I even use mine in the shop. The arc characteristics are just so much different compared to a stand alone mig. I have 2. One I use solely for hardfacing wire.
I've heard of lancing before but this is something I'll keep in my back pocket for sure
oxygen lance.....a big bad mamajama.....en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermal_lance
These videos are great. Lots of viewers will subscribe as they find you. Every post gets easier. You learn as you go.
Whenever I need to make repetitive holes through 1/4”-1/2” Thick steel I use a 1/8” Bit to get my guides and then I use a 1” Step bit for stainless steel since it’s much stronger and it just drills through the metal like butter. I add a bit of cutting oil/coolant to keep the step bit cool. Step bits are expensive but work like a charm.
step bits do cut quickly !
How long do the step bits actually last?
@@mrmotofy a decent amount. I buy mine from harbor freight and spend depending how much I’m going to abuse them.
Step drills are good for thinner metal but these had 3/8" walls, too thick for a step drill. The original wall thickness of the columns that were replaced was 1/8", it would have worked had the new ones been the same thickness.
I see everyone smiling so "it done" and in good shape. 😃😃
Ol Big Tom and his popeye arms shearing heads off those screws lol. All seriousness BT seems like a beast at work
Plasma cutter would have cut the job time in half alone. Cordless drills and impacts are a lot easier and faster to handle as well for me personally instead of constantly looking for outlets and extension cords long enough.
You can not make holes with heat like that on structural members
And it's galvanized mr smart guy
@@WardWeldz and wear will he get 100psi of air
Air from your truck. He is cutting into the posts wirh heat anyway. A plasma won't make it any hotter than with the welder.
@@wilsontreeservice7771 unless he has a big ass compressor it’s not keeping up with constant cutting
when tracing a pattern like that with holes, use a ball peen hammer to transfer the holes and tap the sides of 4x4 to get edge
That’s also the ticket for making fiber gaskets on flanges for valves and pipework 🤙🏼
45 minutes for 4 holes with a magdrill seems long. I know it's thick material but maybe the bits could be sharper or drilling a smaller hole first would help
To cut down drill time use annular bits
step bit for the win.
Annular bits. About 15 seconds a hole if you take your time. Would have to flip column over and drill from both sides though
Drilling holes is a skill on its own. Few people can do it right. Like stainless. There are tricks.
That’s super long lol.
Kick ass job. Those new columns looked like 3/8 wall. The old ones appeared much lighter. I was also thinking how about H beams for columns, would have been different to change. They would never rust from the inside. I'll bet there might be a few more jobs like this in your future.
I am currently replacing h beams on a chemical plan and yea they rust and some columns rust from the webb now they replacing everything with stainless steel
Wouldn't have had issues with needing thru bolts either.
Lansing, hot rodding that one shot looked like hot footing. Great vids, Thx Ant.
blowing the dust out of the hole before epoxy helps, but I doubt there will be loads high enough(tornado) for anyone to ever notice. Still a million times better than the rust-severed columns you replaced, wow!
Check out candle factory in Kentucky after tornado just about a month ago
at the time you asked , it looked like hot rodding should be called hot footing time 26:50 LOL Nice work on the replacement of the poles.
That’s what happens when you don’t put your jeans over your boots 😂
Man we use something similar putting steel columns in basements of houses. We put it on a hydraulic jack and Jack it up. Glad you got one this time!
Nice work Ant and Big Tom. Thanks for shareing.
Glad you enjoyed it
Listen bubba, on structural steel applications you are not supposed to pierce the materials with heat like that, it weakens the connection points there deaming it structurally un-sound. Will it work, sure. BUT, for insurance liability purposes you definitely should not be announcing it on a social media platform.
I got mad respecr for what you are trying to do and what you do just know that there are some things that are different in the structural steel world that can really screw you if you are not going about them to code. Code calls for ONLY the use of 70xx series rods in structural applications and you can not use a cutting torch for cuts or holes.
I have done commercial structural for some time now and these things are highly enforced in my industry and am just informing you so you can be more careful. Take care amigo
What would you have done?
You will always run into new problems and unforseen things, like 1/8" up to 3/8" poles that's a huge labor increase! to drill those out. But that's a small percentage of the jobs that end up like this. But when it's done it will still be worth doing the job.
Great Video. Keep it going😃
thank you!
Damn going from 1/8 to 3/8 wall thickness lol there is no kill like overkill! There’s probably no stopping the ground level rust but that should buy more time I would think. Nice hustle y’all!
Everytime you were using that angle grinder or drill in a puddle I was waiting for the ole electric boogie dance to break out
I wonder if you could have pre made a template piece of tubing in the shop that has the bolt holes in it with slits to fill weld that slides over the new upright posts. Cut the posts to size on site and weld quickly to the piece
good idea
Idk ,
a mag drill with the hollow drill bit
With some of that cutting fluid you mix with water
And a mag drill makes drilling holes like that a walk through the park
A mag drill is definitely a time saver especially when you have to drill bigger holes that aren’t flat in metal
Thanks for letting me know about this video! Great to watch.
Glad you enjoyed it!
I just noticed a business near me had repaired several rusted out poles for awning, but they originally were set in the cement sidewalk, the repair was a piece of pipe same diameter as original, with rusted section cut out, then a place welded on bottom, to bolt to sidewalk, but they then used next size up pipe, cut in half, & sleeved the 2 pieces of pipe, with the pipe halfs, looks safe for many years, probably cheaper? but I dont eat there but 1-2 times a year, and it looks semi recent repair
contractor wanted the whole column replaced
*Randy method would not pass structural requirements in my area. Patch and sleeve methods have a fraction of the original compressive strength. If it's unincorporated county with no inspection and the only ones walking under it are wild hogs vs people you've got a different story.*
Big Tom can probably knock someone’s lights out cold lol
Go to school all day welding come home and watch people weld what a life right
Satisfying to see those threaded rods time-lapsed in without the hammer hitting them.
I would’ve picked up the roof with that turnbuckle thing you were using. I would’ve cut off a foot of each post. Replace the foot of tubing and the plate. Turn plate so it wouldn’t be in the same bolt pattern. Drill new holes and your done. You didn’t have to replace the whole post.
the contractor probably required complete replacement...insurance regulations here in the USA
@Brad Carman It is all about safety for the customers, my wife was a Home Depot employee and told me all about their rules. If they were to block area off, and this is my experience, idiots would be crawling underneath them and trying to get something, if nothing else but to watch.....Yes, it took 3 days, but the original builder and some quirks in the construction so none of his holes lined up due to construction technique, that structure was never intended to be repaired in my experience with this type of build, and if it was the builder did not care and did it the fastest way he could. The guys did a great job considering the restraints on them. Unfortunately in hind sight, they underestimated the time required...and that was due to [in my opinion] not foreseeing the original build descrepencies. No fault of Tom and Anthony....The guys rocked....I am sure if there is another job like this, they will see the monkey wrenches in the gears......by the way, China has it's own way of building which is not as constrained as the USA and other Western countries due to the litigations of our society, blame it on the lawyers and dishonest clients of theirs.
Buddy, when Tom was reefing on that drill and you stopped him, grabbed some glasses and made sure he was safe? You earned yourself a sub, it's that simple. Good safety takes no time or effort at all and it saves fucking LIVES. Seems simple, but the sheer volume of horrible, unsafe, STUPID shit I've seen in the field tells me it ain't. Nice work here.
Feel free to educate me if I'm wrong, but since you have the girders shored up with those 2 pieces of pipe, wouldn't it be quicker and just as much as a quality job, if you made a cut near the bottom of the column? Then you remove the redheads, which you have to do anyway. Then you measure the length from the cut you made at the bottom, factor how much room you need to allow for the baseplate, and then weld in however long a piece of square tubing you would need. I mean does it go against building code? Did the customer adamantly express that he wanted the job done in the fashion you did it? I can see some spots where it would be dangerous as there is water on the floor. No disrespect, you guys did a bang-up job! I'd be very interested to know.
that purple shirt matches the Catholic hand rails Purple.....
Great video guys.....real world action with out the shaky cam....really enjoyed this, if you can't tell by all the comments I made....a running commentary for all ya'll, cheers, Paul over in Orlando
love your insights Paul!
@@MeltinMetalAnthony as old as I am.....I have a lot....haha
Do this all the time, we go around building the greenhouses for tractor supplies. We use mag drills with a different drill but then you did, but our Columns are 1/2 inch
you need to take compressed air and blow dust out of holes before adding the adhesive
and wait for the epoxy to dry before impacting xDD holy shit
I use an impact on redheads when it comes to mounting ceiling anchor plates or ground anchor plates to do bull rigging on at zero problems
Using poxy with wedge anchor is tricky if you don't tight quickly the epoxy will harden and keep the wedge mechanism from sliding to wedge.
always drill a pilot hole for self tapers on thicker material...always
Takes alot of time. Think thats why they why they went the air arc gouging instead.
It doesn't matter pre drilling heavy wall stuff.....been there. With the self tappers you almost have to drill the same exact size of the threads. You did a good job dude
We used use a fatter ST to thin the material and oil it and carefully blast it in. Former Garage door guy here.
51 yrs old and starting welding school in Jan.
Been an amateur welder for 20 years.
Galvanized... Drink your milk boys!
26:49 And that's why I wear my pants over the boots. 😉
I've always like learning knowledgeable things that could help me down the road some of which is precedent on your videos keep up the good work. VERY INSPIRING TO OTHERS 💯👍
That technique is called Gouging . Works great underwater too.
Agreed that is what I call it
Real World Video...right on
Annular bits would eat right through that in seconds, definitely worth buying some, Amazon got some good ones for under $50 u could burn through them and throw em away for the amount of time they’ll save
It’s called right tools for jobs involving steel
Another great video guys.
If you have ever done this you know what the scariest part is....drilling the anchor holes and hitting rebar. Ive smacked myself in the face multiple times and almost broken my wrist a few times.
Another fantastic video both of you true hard grafters full respect to you both. Cant wait for the next video 👍👍👍
They are different lengths because it's a uneven surface. It was shot with a laser level.
When we did the holes like that we called it hot rodding also.
Slinging sparks all around ammonium nitrate… I dig it
@27:00 I call it ...."Wear Fancy Boots get Fancy Burns" Lol A.K.A Carbon Arc Torching.
Electric Piercing is what I would call the hole punching, [lancing or hot rodding]
What a video! Good work, boys!
tom got fire in his boot
Nice Work
Screw holes never align perfectly on the other side of an open square...or circle. I was wondering about cutting the holes with a plasma cutter...and template.
I should be studying for my SOL test but here I am watching this
Hell ya!!!! I like your style brother!!!! Don’t give a damn what anyone else thinks lmao!!! Out there gettin it done
At 26:50 looks like Tom had a Hot Foot from the Hot Rodding lol Hope he is alright.Keep up the good work!
he's good lol takes a lot to keep ole tom down
26k?
How???????
I'm a welder and I'm broke asf
He went and sold and did the job that’s how. Lot of work and he came through
@16:00 if taking that long is going to make you go negative...ur spending is rediculous... if u make 26k in 3 days and get to keep the scrap metal and go in the red on a 3 day job...then your budgeting is fucked flat out.
with that said,,,im sure u were exaggerating and the fact youve worked your skill up to take on jobs like this with 2 knowledgable people is epic...keep up the solid work...got obsessed with arc welding 2 years ago and never looked back.... being able to turn metal pieces into function items is such a huge inspiration to me... cool to see how its done in the real world...ima start scooping out all the garden centers in my area. lol
Annular cutter bits for the mag and some good juice , 1/16 larger , drift pin and a high quantity reamer. Get some welding blankets, save yourself on a back charge, ratchet straps work , I’ve used them plenty, a come along IMO would of helped tremendously. And Jesus you hate your feet! Use a sledge to move the steel around. Did a great job ! Hope my constructive criticism comes in handy!
I know I'm a little late to the comment section, but I always am. I've been a rig welder since 2002, started welding as a career when I got out of the Navy in 1992 and welded in the Navy 1988 to 1992. I lived in Washington State for 10 years and Colorado for 23 years. To get back to your question I've always in everybody I work with call it hot rodding. It is illegal as the day is long, to do it on pipe and if an inspector catches me doing it he will tell me to throw the pipe away. But unless I'm putting on 10 or 15 sock-olets or weld-olets I always hot rod the whole for half inch, three-quarter inch, and 1 in olets. Just curious how did you score a job at Home Depot? I've had some crazy gigs over the years! Poland springs bottled water plant out in West Hollis Maine, worked up on the North slope of Alaska, and a couple of years ago I was welding down on the border wall in Arizona. Great video content you put out!!
Tom getting burned killed me😂
I carry a cheap plasma cutter on my truck. Amazon; Reboot, the bigger one. consumables are dirt cheap and it runs off the 240 on my welder. I think it was around $300 and consumables were around $25 for 10 sets. I carry about 50' of 240 extension cable. Looks like it would have saved you tons of time.
Seem like a good dude. Solid job man.
Screw twist bits for a mag drill. Get some end mills for that beast.
I noticed you didnt do a weep hole at the bottom of the post for condensation build up and because it the garden department they are using a lot of water all the time and I would have used a rubber coating or rino liner 12" up around the bottom of the post, I feel you when it comes to time frames
Also remember to add holes on the bottom of the column to prevent rust or water accumulation
lancing sounds professional but to guys like us,,, hot rod holin 💪
Done a lot with the epoxy, let it set for a little after you put the anchors in. Dont just go right too it, just a little tip. You want it to start to form before you crank them down
Be careful welding galvanized guys! You don’t want to get metal fume fever.
Better drink some milk
As pro welders you don't think they know that? LoL
I'm from germany and we have the same style fastener here that you used for the floorplates.
Here they are regulated under a certain DIN that I don't remember exactly, and may only be used with the correct washer and nut. The holes should be vacuumed and blown out. Epoxy is not necessary. Torqued to the proper spec with a torque wrench.
For me it would be a no brainer to do it the proper way since this is a commercial building.
And btw: no wonder The old columns rusted trough with that sprinkler system.. Did you make the new ones out of stainless, or did you take any other rust prevention measures?
They used hot dipped galvanized columns.
I agree with the blowing and vacuuming comment. The epoxy should be fine, but I would have to double check if the manufacturer allows for it on the wedge some anchors don't like that on the mating surface.
SS columns would be a bit pricey for such application, probably worth it for 20+ year lifespan, but some businesses aren't looking that far ahead. My only issue with their installation would be if they compromised the coating with the hot work. There is only so much zinc paint you can use if I recall it is like maybe -1%- 0.5%, per ASTM A123 or A780 on structural members. (Edit: Grammar and additional information ASTM A123/A123M Part 6.2.2 - "The total area subject to renovation on each article shall be no more that ½ of 1% of the accessible area or 36 in.² per short ton [256 cm² per metric ton] of piece weight, whichever is less.")
Done a lot of epoxy. Definitely vacuum the holes. We made an attachment that fits on the shop vac and into holes. Fast and easy. Great videos
@@frederickmcconnell547 blowing with a straw on fuel line works
Huge effort and problem solving for this HD Garden Dept. Haven't seen any use of a plasma cutter, I know they are expensive. Are you considering getting/using one in the future ? Self tapers on thicker metal gauge always mess up unless pre-drilled to fastener minor diameter to help self taper go through.
Jobs a lot of work with that many to replace but add in all the inventory that has to be move, man good luck.
For all the crap u had going on…u deserve a thumbs up
Use a cheap 1/4 inch stubby drill bit the a reamer and cutting oil
the margin on a drill bit is not a cutting edge and does a very poor job of reaming, you are better off using a step bit for enlarging a hole
Here in South Africa I know it as gouging or lancing. If you dont have a lancing rod a high amp on welding machine will do it with a wet welding rod.
wondering if they are using reclaimed water for sprinkling? that stuff is really corrosive due to the high chlorine content
thats likely
Its the chems from all the different fertilizers they are selling.
I appreciate you making these videos keep up the good work 🔥🔥🔥💯💯💯
Like a real life fix it Felix
Definitely hot roding here in Pittsburgh. Looks like it was a nice job.
Blade goes bad he says use the grinder I'm looking at the home depot in the background
26:50 is why you never tuck your pants into your boots 😂
unless they fix the drainage, you'll be back.
A little tip, always put the bolts in with the washers and nuts on 😜
if you're filling holes with epoxy always make sure to blow them out with a shopvac and then brush them with a steel cylinder brush, the epoxy will stick to the dust and those rods won't hold very well. Also why would you impact the nuts when the epoxy is still wet?
Was thinking the same thing, but the “red heads” he’s using seem to be some type of true bolt or dynabolt so they don’t even really need the epoxy. Guess it’s just a bit of extra security for piece of mind and that’s what the customer asked for.
I was always told to put the nut on then tap it down so the thread doesn't get damaged
Because you want the redhead holding onto the concrete before the epoxy sets that way the redhead is not binding only due to the epoxy getting hard
You guys are kind hack it style. More iron workers than custom welders
you guys make a good team , hope you get lot more work with good pay.
thanks!
Like your videos. If just the bottoms of the columns were bad could you have just welded plate steel around them at the bottom? I’ve done jobs like that and that was the weld procedure per a structural engineer. Just a thought. Keep up the good work
I enjoy watching your vids, but it killed me watching you hit those anchors in with out the nut screwed on the threads
already.
it always take twice as much time and twice as much money as you think it would