2007 Wide Glide 96 cube with screamin eagle tuner and big cam kit, throttle body, heavy breather, rinehart pipes and dyno tuned. 75,500kms and she is an absolute beast!
I have a 99 super glide twin cam bumped to a 95 Dave Mackie 105 hp 105 tq getting 50 mpg at 55 mph but around 30 at 70 mph and it was built over 20 years ago with over 50 thousand miles I still love riding it so much fun still to this day
I'm an old Panhead guy. I recently picked up a 1996 FLHR-I with only 29k on it from a Brother of mine. It had the obsolete unobtainable parts Magneti- Marelli system on it. It ran so-so and mileage was crappy and the engine wasn't very responsive. I upgraded to a Mikuni HSR42 and an Ultima ignition system. It's like a brand new bike. It's very responsive and runs awesome.
My opinion, you did the best thing you could do with any bike that has a old Mag FI system. Parts are impossible to find, let alone anyone that tune it and messing with it is just asking for trouble. Best thing you can do is convert those to a carb, spend the big bucks and upgrade to a Delphi Efi conversion if you want to keep FI.
@@GixxerFoo I bought the bike after watching your video. I got the idea to go ahead and do it from watching your video "when fuel injection fails it's time for the carb." I figured out an easier way to do it without finding a donor bike harness and parts Etc. Cost about 1200 bucks for all the parts the minor wire harness that I did, but it's a lot cheaper than upgrading to the newer fuel injection system.
Have to say, as a new subscriber, that your views and advice seem to be solid, non-sensational, and real world stuff. Many questions are answered clearly. You cover a broad range of subjects, staying with the current flow of harley rider interests. Thanks for all.
Welcome aboard! I really appreciate that! I'm not trying to push products but just be real about what you need to look for in a Harley and what you can realistically do to your bike for the street. Now if you're racing by all mean go all out, but that doesn't make for a great street bike.
Excellent advice Foo! I’m not a tech, just of a “weekend warrior” guy who is not afraid to do anything on my bike or a buddies. You hit the nail on the head, adding more power without reinforcements is a roll of the dice. Each engine is different, If 2 identical Lowrider S’s roll out of the factory and they were built back to back/one right after the other, they’re both going to have different characteristics and run differently. 1st bike could have crank runout of 2 thou and the 2nd at 8 thou.. (MoCo, in their infinite wisdom, changed runout tolerances after too many recalls… they went from .003 to .012 🙄). If all things are equal at 30k miles, same riding style, same maint, same parts, etc, etc… and both wanted to change cams and install gear drive cams, I’d advise against gear drive on the 2nd one even though MoCo says they’re within spec. Adding power to an already “lopsided” crank is only gonna make you get to catastrophe sooner rather than later.
That is so very true and I've said that for years, no two engines are ever alike! Gears are an awesome upgrade, but I really steer away from them on a stock crank just as the miles pile up. I like to see a Timken conversion with a built crank before going with gears. It reduces a lot of the risk of catastrophic failure.
I only put a Cam in my 114 M8. Fuel economy didn’t seem to change (although I have not official calculated it) As far as the TC88 to 95 My fuel efficiency and power are both better and I am a huge fan of that kit. Longevity has been far beyond expectations on it. (I did add an oil cooler though)
Oil cooler makes a huge a difference in longevity, I've always said performance makes the engine more efficient and you can get the fuel mileage if you ride conservatively.
Went stage 2 on my 114 M8 with tunner pro, street cannon exhaust and wide ban O2 sensors. All screaming eagle. Consistently achieved 50 mpg. The last change was intake 55mm screaming eagle cast. Fuel mileage went to 44 mpg at 65 to 70 mph. If I keep the speed down below 50 mph, I can average 57 mpg to 62 mpg. Bike is running fine now, no more changes until its worn out.
Hotrodded engines should be built as a total "system" in my opinion. You can get more performance by mildly changing everything to suit than relying on one or two large mods. Nice video as usual!
I think putting a cam in any Harley would revolve around crankshaft runout...cause in the end , that's one of the determinations of how long your motors gonna live.
It really is, especially on a used bike where you've only got what you can see until you get in there. But for sure measuring run out is going to determine quite a bit of your engines longevity.
Enjoyed this one being that I just now got through with putting in an EV13 cam in with a CV thinderslide kit on my bagger. And just like on my softail; after 30k miles, while I was in there I found I needed new lifters too. About to fire this thing up here in a minute and see if there's any differance at all.
Cory, in my opinion the thunder slide will drive you crazy. I throw all of them in the trash when I find them in a CV. I know you like to do road trips on your bike and the best thing about your Evo is that if you were to consider keeping it bone stock (mufflers, airbox & carb w/stock jets) you'll see 55mpg all day long. Just my 2 cent's...
@@GixxerFoo yeah good point, I forgot he has multiple bikes. What bike did you do that to Cory? I have one "hot rod" with a stroker flywheel assembly in it and another just for touring purposes.
@@GixxerFoo Yeah the bagger still had the stock cam in it. It was the softail that has the EVL 3020 cam. That bagger performs a heck of a lot better now! My most recent video is about that.
i only lost 2mpg on my 03 road king. 95ci 100hp 107lbft. 40mpg still. Now my 21 low rider s i just did a 128 stage 3 and should be around 130hp 140lbft on a 650lb bike. Dropped it off at my tuners today.
On your advice... I wanted to change my '17 oil pump. For the labor price I should replace the cam plate and probably change the cam. Well it's gonna be down for a while maybe new jugs... I ended up getting a 124 built (from 107). During my Iron Butt Challenges my 107 could get 175 miles a tank on those 85 mph+, high RPM miles. I expressed my concern about that to my builder and he said the same thing you said in your video. If I can keep my right wrist calm it'll be the same if not better. 05/13/22 set out for Iron Butt 48 States in less than10 days. My Ultra Limited preformed flawlessly and when I want to pass, I just roll on the throttle, it's everything I ever wanted my bike be like. Over 10,000 miles since my build and I can say, if you can do, DO IT!
I'm currently only running a stage 1 on my 2000 883, but have plans to upgrade to a Hammer 1275 kit and a Jackhammer 570 Cam set. Add Smash ported heads and I'll be pushing at least 90 hp on a 500 bike. Just my personal humble opinion, but save your money and ditch the fuel injection. Carbs may suck, but they do it really, really well!
Carbs do work very well, easy to work on and maintain too! You get that 1275 kit and the work done with those cams and that bike will haul. You might actually see over 100 horse with the right exhaust system.
On my 103 TC, I put a woods 222, Man O War compensator, and a TAB performance header with mufflers and my fuel economy dropped from 40+ mpg to a consistent 36mpg. I am really trying to monitor my riding style to see if I can improve it.
I just recently upgraded my 2020 iron 883 to a ‘21 model Low Rider S which of course has the M8 114 in it. 👍😃. Anyway, I’m in the process of getting a good stage 1 on it. Probably the 636 breather from DK customs with an EBS (which I’ve already done a homemade EBS with stuff from Lowe’s and Ace hardware and a drill) and some slip ons. Beyond that, I really don’t think I’ll do much to this engine? Maybe a cam down the road? Maybe? It runs so good straight out of the box that I don’t want to mess with it too much. I certainly don’t want to hurt reliability. That’s my main concern. Most of what I’ll do after my stage 1 is going to be centered around “cooling” the engine or keeping it as cool as possible. That’s probably my main concern with these air cooled engine designs is keeping it cool, not hp numbers. I don’t have $$$ to burn and want my original engine to last as long as possible!
Got a pair of the gloves you talked about in one of your videos , hands got cold within 8 miles of my ride at 65 mph 16° temperature, but a few clicks of the heated grips all went well. Thank you
I'd say the answer is yes and no.it depends on what you do if you upgrade a part to make more power you need to upgrade the supporting parts.the more power you ask for the more you need to upgrade parts,as for fuel at some point it's going to use more fuel if it's enough to be a problem maybe not.
The only thing that has really effected my gas mileage is the crappy gas. Holy Mother Of God, gas is so terrible these days. If you can ever find a station with just plain old straight up pure gasoline, you will be SHOCKED at how much better your bike will run... or anything else for that matter.
That's a fact, it's getting harder and harder to find 100% pure gasoline that's not cut with ethanol. I only run that 10% ethanol if I absolutely have to and even then I have octane booster that's supposed to counteract the negative effects of ethanol.
Good point. With today’s gas you might as well add a glass of water to every fill up. I use 100% gasoline at every opportunity even if it means riding a few miles out of my way. The octane rating is usually 90 at those pumps but because it’s REAL gas then that won’t matter however a splash of Lucas octane booster solves that concern with ethanol infused gas and it REALLY helps with 100% gas. There’s a noticeable improvement in how my bike runs with real gas with respect to a quieter, cooler as well as a more responsive throttle on my 117 big bore kit.
There are a couple stations 30 miles from me that still have 100% gas. They are usually in route of my rides, so it's a win win. Sadly, we will never see corn gas ended. But that's another story.
When I put new cams in my twin cam I re-used the original lifters but the engine had less than 2,000 miles on it at the time. When it comes time to change the tensioner shoes again I'm going to put in new lifters then.
That's a good call, I would of done the same thing in that situation. Changing lifters when you do the shoes is a great idea, it goes along with the maintenance not mentioned anywhere in the factory books.
😆👍 It really does, riding conservatively on a Sportster they can get some miles out of a tank of gas. My wife has the 2.1 gallon tank and we've pulled about 90 miles out of it.
What’s your opinion on this? My dad’s 2008 Electraglide has 65k miles on it. I told home we should change out the cam chain adjusters. And possibly a woods 222 cam. Think we should change the cam with those miles? Was going to get the whole cam kit from Fuel Moto.
You'll be alright adding a cam if the bike has good compression, it's always a risk with anything mechanical but if you take the proper steps you'll be good to go with a bolt in. Just do the cam bearings and new lifters with the cam, now the tensioners are always a good idea to replace. Those I always go ahead and replace while I'm in there need it or not.
Hey Gixxer another great video I always listen to your advice. Still modifying the RG just put in a Fuel pack 3 what a amazing difference damn great product. Thanks for your advice 👍 All the best from New Zealand 🇳🇿
That's awesome to hear! the FP3 is a great product for exhaust, air cleaners and even cams. The auto tune works really good on it too if you want to fine tune the map a bit.
i know when i got my SE 131 build i thought ugggh gas mileage. but i see no difference. i am very conservative so that might be the reason. i made sure i added all the components too to support the larger build. i was reliability for sure. i really dont use the power much but it is there when i need it. coming onto a freeway is super awesome. :) nothing keeps up with me.
That new 131 is just plain awesome, one of the best engine upgrades Harley-Davidson has had i a long time. I bet it's a blast to lay into getting on the freeway!
I changed the cam lifters and pushrods in my 2011 FLHTK. Exhaust, air cleaner, and FP3. Fuel mileage dropped around 5-7 mpg if I ride it normal. When I get on it a lot it makes a difference. So I act accordingly … lol
I'm almost afraid to ask, but if you measure the run out the check the general health of things, how far out from .002 do you then need to break open the case?
It depends on who you talk to lol, Harley's allowable run out is astronomical in my opinion. Upwards of .012, with the factory cranks I'd like to see .005 at a max and even that's a little high to me. I still believe that factory automatic chain tensioner is the cause of the run out issues, you have that one side pulled tight and something has to give through the center of the engine.
Gixxer.... 2021 m8 streetbob .... stock with jims forcefan , k&n filter and stock pipes. Just want to get pipes for better sound. Is it true my bike is tuned to accept pipes without a tune. Latest says yes.... does that sound true to you.
Depends who does the engine build. There are a lot of under qualified builders out there that have optimistic dynos and think that making the most HP and having the optimal AF ratio is paramount, which neither are. But alot of Harley riders only want to use the dyno printoff for bragging rights then wonder why their bike runs like crap. 😂
Yeah on a carb bike the jet kits make it pretty rich so you will use more fuel. The FI bike electronically metering the fuel can run richer and leaner as needed which allows them to keep the fuel economy steady.
I’ve been binge watching your channel.. I’ve watched the 103ci cam swap vid ~100 times.. what state are you in? Also, bike questions.. you express sheer excitement about the “bolt-in” cams.. any idea if those “bolt in” cams (wood 222) will bolt in and clear the inner case casting? I have a good starting point.. only at 10k mi.. cams, cam plate, lifters, quickee pushrods and oil pump are next.. Secondly, I know the runout (gap) can be no more than 0.003” on cam gears, but what about the pinion runout? Is there a safe spectrum?
Bolt in cams usually don't have any clearance issues, I still check the case clearance anyhow and I haven't ever found any base circle issues with a bolt in cam clearing the cases. But still don't blindly put one in without checking cause that will the one time it doesn't clear lol. I'm in central Oklahoma where the weather is wild and you never know what you're gonna get lol. You're pinion runout you absolutely don't want to be over .003" at a maximum for a gear drive cam system. That's a pretty good plan with a race cam plate and oil pump too.
I have a 96 out to 103 cam comp heads ported tune in a street glide loaded up A buddy had a factory 103 wide glide and on the highway I used a bit less than he did lol
Yeah the M8 doesn't run rich it all, it runs just as lean as the Twin Cam did but it handles it a lot better with the dual plugs and 4 valve heads. The poor Twin Cam was virtually on the edge of melting with the two valve head trying to pull those AFR's.
On my 17 Road King at 2 years old and approx 16000 km I did a stage 2 with the S&S 475 cam. A year later I wasn't happy with the FP3 fuel map so just paid for a dynojet license and had it dyno'd. I'm a shade over 40000 km now and the bike just seems to keep running better and better.
First off, awesome channel! How best to get in touch and pick your brain? I recently bought a bone stock '06 Deluxe EFI twin cam 88. Just did a 10K service, I did pull the cam cover and the tensioners are fine, so far. I want to Stage 1 her, but need advise. Cams are soon to follow (bolt in, I think) and that's it, ride her. Help!!!
Really enjoy your channel, Question, I have a 2006 Heritage Softail with under 18K on it and would like to consider a cam upgrade and possibly cam plate upgrade, don’t want to go into debt for a new one. How much (ballpark) for those upgrades if I can find a local independent shop near me.
With a Indy shop the parts I'd say would run you around 800 to 1k. I would plan for 2k all in with labor, that's high in my opinion but different markets etc. That's probably more like the dealer price so Indy shop should be quite a bit cheaper.
I remember when I was a kid hearing a guy saying you don't buy a Harley for the mileage but your stock 883 does about 140mpg which is comperable to everything in it's price/power range
883's get really good mileage, my wife's 48 with the 2.1 gallon tank I've stretched that sucker to 85 miles. Not good on the fuel pump in my opinion but even the 1200 will do some decent mileage.
Couldn’t agree more! And hope I don’t have too much runout when I decide to tear into my 2006 Dyna Lowrider eventually. If one of the lucky ones and have less than .003, I am gonna split my case and get that sucker welded! Lol.
That honestly seems to make a difference on the Twin Cam factory cranks lol. I got a little information on that surprisingly, talked to a guy who was there when they started pressing those cranks. Part of their cost saving measures was running the hydraulic fluid in the machines longer, they found the dirtier/older the fluid was the cranks ended up with more run out. If you got a crank that was pressed/lubed properly with the clean fluid during the pressing operation they ended up straighter and more true.
I usually use this analogy: it is easier for me to push a piano up hill than it is for my 10 year old son. And I use less energy, and burn less calories, doing it.
That's exactly what you're doing putting some power in your engine, it's like getting a full size pickup with the V6 instead of the V8. You find out real quick you burn as much if not more fuel and you have way less power.
Gixerfoo are you available for custom builds or able to personally assist with information/recommendations on an individual basis? If so, what is the best way one can contact you?
If you're in too high of a gear with RPM's below 2500 and feel the engine struggling to pull out of it. The Vtwin will do it but you're beating the crap out of the crank.
Surprisingly even those Vettes get pretty good mileage for what they are, obviously not a Prius but not the 9 miles a gallon we used to get back in the day.
0:46 - I busted out laughing. That's hilarious. This is nice to know. I wish that you had covered Sportster, too. What are some ways to specifically get better gas mileage, on a Sportster?
It's the exact same concept on the Sportster too, exhaust, air cleaner and a good tune really goes a long way. Even adding cams and big bore kits on a Sportster with conservative riding will maintain or increase economy.
Lol well if you match the fuel flow with the nitrous it would hold together for a while. Biggest thing with nitrous is fuel, nitrous is hard on rings anyhow but without plenty of fuel it smoke the rings even faster.
More power and torque = more heat to dissapate, more stress on other components like valve springs, clutch, clutch basket, transmission. You cannot upgrade the top engine without upgrading other components...not upgrading these other components will bite you big time. Don't worry about fuel economy...worry about increased stresses on other components and engine heat management (consider getting a fan assisted oil cooler)
Always a huge fan of oil coolers, you can't go wrong there. You do put a little more stress on the lower end in theory, but if you keep it mild with bolt in cams that work with the stock springs you're pretty good. Now if you get into high lift cams and heavy springs you start to put some stress down on the stock parts.
@@GixxerFoo This is true...why do I push for lower engine? It's because the lower engine is like a foundation to build upon, and the quality of that future build is dependent upon the quality and strength of that foundation. Now it is entirely true that an owner can add some power and torque and the stock components will do just fine, however it comes at a cost of sacrificing some reliability..components will wear out a little faster. However for those who are very serious and have the financial resources...starting with the lower engine and blue printing it, and putting in Timken Bearings, and forged connecting rods (Carillo) and having that new crankshaft assembly balanced to have as little vibration as possible (I know...part of the Harley "experience" for backseaters is that the bike is a 2 wheeled vibrator and that's why women love them so much...besides the bad boy image of the bike owner...but I digress...)...reducing the vibration (like reducing heat) translates into components lasting longer and having less wear and staying in alignment longer. So...once the lower engine work is done...the Harley owner can then shift their gaze to Gear Driven CAMs which allow for more precise valve timing, and a more efficient OIL pump and better CAM plate (like S&S)...more lubrication = less friction = less wear = less heat = greater reliability. A solid lower end means not only better reliability...but a solid foundation on which the owner can make all kinds of changes to the upper end and still have an incredibly solid bike. It's like...if you're going to want to someday have an engine that produces more torque..you are going to want to have a better clutch and transmission so the owner might want to think about a Baker Transmission. Pricey yes...but very solid. Just like it costs money for performance..it costs money for reliability. A bike owner can cycle through a lot of bikes over time, or can focus on having one bike for a very long time and making that bike as solid as possible.
Most Harley Davidson tech's don't have Micrometers or bore gages to check the fitment of the "bolt on" parts and just slap them together without checking ANYTHING! What a $hit show
@@davegarner3477 I agree with you but... When I do some really LOOONG rides it really does add up. I can do a 2,000 mile trip and depending on what I throw my leg over really does make a difference from a financial standpoint. Plus I'm able to maximize my distance traveled.
@@kennethwise7108 yes of course it does take more money on trips like that, never forget how lucky we are, something like 50% of the worlds population lives on a dollar a day. Of course enjoy your motorcycle, I certainly do. we are the luckier ones
Too high of a gear and too slow of a speed and rolling on the throttle letting the engine pull the bike up to speed. With a Harley engine design it will do it but it's very hard on your crank.
Don't lug......so what would be a minimum rpm you can accelerate out of without downshifting Not a problem for me, I ride the curves and like to keep rpm up, gear down, for best throttle response My brother doesn't get it......he shifts up as fast as possible, he hits 5th at 50mph(1200).......then says it needs a 6th gear
That's the truth, a lot of people find that it just keeps going. You get an idea in your head of a cam swap only and then you start finding you absolutely need or really should get parts while you're in there.
How many miles do you have on your built Harley-Davidson engine?
2001 indian with aS&S 88 .milage 21,000
1976 Yamaha Enduro 175 with a Briggs and Stratton 149cc.
21,001
80" Evo, Wood W6H cam, 35,000 miles
2007 Wide Glide 96 cube with screamin eagle tuner and big cam kit, throttle body, heavy breather, rinehart pipes and dyno tuned. 75,500kms and she is an absolute beast!
About 5000 since Cams and pushrods. 12000 on the bike. 0 issues.
I have a 99 super glide twin cam bumped to a 95 Dave Mackie 105 hp 105 tq getting 50 mpg at 55 mph but around 30 at 70 mph and it was built over 20 years ago with over 50 thousand miles I still love riding it so much fun still to this day
That's awesome! That's exactly what I'm talking about, you have a built motor and it sounds like it's solidly reliable with 50K miles on it!
I'm an old Panhead guy. I recently picked up a 1996 FLHR-I with only 29k on it from a Brother of mine. It had the obsolete unobtainable parts Magneti- Marelli system on it. It ran so-so and mileage was crappy and the engine wasn't very responsive. I upgraded to a Mikuni HSR42 and an Ultima ignition system. It's like a brand new bike. It's very responsive and runs awesome.
My opinion, you did the best thing you could do with any bike that has a old Mag FI system. Parts are impossible to find, let alone anyone that tune it and messing with it is just asking for trouble. Best thing you can do is convert those to a carb, spend the big bucks and upgrade to a Delphi Efi conversion if you want to keep FI.
@@GixxerFoo I bought the bike after watching your video. I got the idea to go ahead and do it from watching your video "when fuel injection fails it's time for the carb." I figured out an easier way to do it without finding a donor bike harness and parts Etc. Cost about 1200 bucks for all the parts the minor wire harness that I did, but it's a lot cheaper than upgrading to the newer fuel injection system.
Have to say, as a new subscriber, that your views and advice seem to be solid, non-sensational, and real world stuff.
Many questions are answered clearly. You cover a broad range of subjects, staying with the current flow of harley rider interests. Thanks for all.
Welcome aboard! I really appreciate that! I'm not trying to push products but just be real about what you need to look for in a Harley and what you can realistically do to your bike for the street. Now if you're racing by all mean go all out, but that doesn't make for a great street bike.
Excellent advice Foo! I’m not a tech, just of a “weekend warrior” guy who is not afraid to do anything on my bike or a buddies. You hit the nail on the head, adding more power without reinforcements is a roll of the dice.
Each engine is different, If 2 identical Lowrider S’s roll out of the factory and they were built back to back/one right after the other, they’re both going to have different characteristics and run differently. 1st bike could have crank runout of 2 thou and the 2nd at 8 thou.. (MoCo, in their infinite wisdom, changed runout tolerances after too many recalls… they went from .003 to .012 🙄).
If all things are equal at 30k miles, same riding style, same maint, same parts, etc, etc… and both wanted to change cams and install gear drive cams, I’d advise against gear drive on the 2nd one even though MoCo says they’re within spec. Adding power to an already “lopsided” crank is only gonna make you get to catastrophe sooner rather than later.
That is so very true and I've said that for years, no two engines are ever alike! Gears are an awesome upgrade, but I really steer away from them on a stock crank just as the miles pile up. I like to see a Timken conversion with a built crank before going with gears. It reduces a lot of the risk of catastrophic failure.
I only put a Cam in my 114 M8. Fuel economy didn’t seem to change (although I have not official calculated it) As far as the TC88 to 95 My fuel efficiency and power are both better and I am a huge fan of that kit. Longevity has been far beyond expectations on it. (I did add an oil cooler though)
Oil cooler makes a huge a difference in longevity, I've always said performance makes the engine more efficient and you can get the fuel mileage if you ride conservatively.
Went stage 2 on my 114 M8 with tunner pro, street cannon exhaust and wide ban O2 sensors. All screaming eagle. Consistently achieved 50 mpg. The last change was intake 55mm screaming eagle cast. Fuel mileage went to 44 mpg at 65 to 70 mph. If I keep the speed down below 50 mph, I can average 57 mpg to 62 mpg. Bike is running fine now, no more changes until its worn out.
Those wide band sensors make a huge difference in maintaining consistency of your fuel map at all times!
Hotrodded engines should be built as a total "system" in my opinion. You can get more performance by mildly changing everything to suit than relying on one or two large mods. Nice video as usual!
As far as lugging goes, what's the lowest RPM you recommend before downshifting etc
I think putting a cam in any Harley would revolve around crankshaft runout...cause in the end , that's one of the determinations of how long your motors gonna live.
It really is, especially on a used bike where you've only got what you can see until you get in there. But for sure measuring run out is going to determine quite a bit of your engines longevity.
Enjoyed this one being that I just now got through with putting in an EV13 cam in with a CV thinderslide kit on my bagger. And just like on my softail; after 30k miles, while I was in there I found I needed new lifters too. About to fire this thing up here in a minute and see if there's any differance at all.
Cory, in my opinion the thunder slide will drive you crazy. I throw all of them in the trash when I find them in a CV. I know you like to do road trips on your bike and the best thing about your Evo is that if you were to consider keeping it bone stock (mufflers, airbox & carb w/stock jets) you'll see 55mpg all day long. Just my 2 cent's...
That's awesome! It will make a big difference on that bagger, it had a stock cam in it didn't it? It was your softail that had a cam in it wasn't it?
@@GixxerFoo yeah good point, I forgot he has multiple bikes. What bike did you do that to Cory? I have one "hot rod" with a stroker flywheel assembly in it and another just for touring purposes.
@@GixxerFoo Yeah the bagger still had the stock cam in it. It was the softail that has the EVL 3020 cam. That bagger performs a heck of a lot better now! My most recent video is about that.
@@kennethwise7108 I put the cam in the electra glide. Runs like a boss now.
i only lost 2mpg on my 03 road king. 95ci 100hp 107lbft. 40mpg still. Now my 21 low rider s i just did a 128 stage 3 and should be around 130hp 140lbft on a 650lb bike. Dropped it off at my tuners today.
Getting a good tune will make a world of difference.
On your advice... I wanted to change my '17 oil pump. For the labor price I should replace the cam plate and probably change the cam. Well it's gonna be down for a while maybe new jugs... I ended up getting a 124 built (from 107). During my Iron Butt Challenges my 107 could get 175 miles a tank on those 85 mph+, high RPM miles. I expressed my concern about that to my builder and he said the same thing you said in your video. If I can keep my right wrist calm it'll be the same if not better. 05/13/22 set out for Iron Butt 48 States in less than10 days. My Ultra Limited preformed flawlessly and when I want to pass, I just roll on the throttle, it's everything I ever wanted my bike be like. Over 10,000 miles since my build and I can say, if you can do, DO IT!
I'm currently only running a stage 1 on my 2000 883, but have plans to upgrade to a Hammer 1275 kit and a Jackhammer 570 Cam set. Add Smash ported heads and I'll be pushing at least 90 hp on a 500 bike. Just my personal humble opinion, but save your money and ditch the fuel injection. Carbs may suck, but they do it really, really well!
Carbs do work very well, easy to work on and maintain too! You get that 1275 kit and the work done with those cams and that bike will haul. You might actually see over 100 horse with the right exhaust system.
@@GixxerFoo currently running V&H staggered shots. No baffles, no plans to switch. 2 into 1 would be better power, but I love the sound!
On my 103 TC, I put a woods 222, Man O War compensator, and a TAB performance header with mufflers and my fuel economy dropped from 40+ mpg to a consistent 36mpg. I am really trying to monitor my riding style to see if I can improve it.
I just recently upgraded my 2020 iron 883 to a ‘21 model Low Rider S which of course has the M8 114 in it. 👍😃. Anyway, I’m in the process of getting a good stage 1 on it. Probably the 636 breather from DK customs with an EBS (which I’ve already done a homemade EBS with stuff from Lowe’s and Ace hardware and a drill) and some slip ons. Beyond that, I really don’t think I’ll do much to this engine? Maybe a cam down the road? Maybe? It runs so good straight out of the box that I don’t want to mess with it too much. I certainly don’t want to hurt reliability. That’s my main concern.
Most of what I’ll do after my stage 1 is going to be centered around “cooling” the engine or keeping it as cool as possible. That’s probably my main concern with these air cooled engine designs is keeping it cool, not hp numbers. I don’t have $$$ to burn and want my original engine to last as long as possible!
Upgrading with a Hammer 1275 kit is a great way to double your power and keep your reliability!
Got a pair of the gloves you talked about in one of your videos , hands got cold within 8 miles of my ride at 65 mph 16° temperature, but a few clicks of the heated grips all went well. Thank you
Damn 16 degrees is pretty brutal and then you get running down the road, I need to get me some of those heated grips myself!
I'd say the answer is yes and no.it depends on what you do if you upgrade a part to make more power you need to upgrade the supporting parts.the more power you ask for the more you need to upgrade parts,as for fuel at some point it's going to use more fuel if it's enough to be a problem maybe not.
Supporting parts are a must, too many just slap in a cam and big bore without a billet cam plate and high volume oil pump for example.
The only thing that has really effected my gas mileage is the crappy gas. Holy Mother Of God, gas is so terrible these days. If you can ever find a station with just plain old straight up pure gasoline, you will be SHOCKED at how much better your bike will run... or anything else for that matter.
That's a fact, it's getting harder and harder to find 100% pure gasoline that's not cut with ethanol. I only run that 10% ethanol if I absolutely have to and even then I have octane booster that's supposed to counteract the negative effects of ethanol.
Good point. With today’s gas you might as well add a glass of water to every fill up. I use 100% gasoline at every opportunity even if it means riding a few miles out of my way. The octane rating is usually 90 at those pumps but because it’s REAL gas then that won’t matter however a splash of Lucas octane booster solves that concern with ethanol infused gas and it REALLY helps with 100% gas. There’s a noticeable improvement in how my bike runs with real gas with respect to a quieter, cooler as well as a more responsive throttle on my 117 big bore kit.
There are a couple stations 30 miles from me that still have 100% gas. They are usually in route of my rides, so it's a win win. Sadly, we will never see corn gas ended. But that's another story.
When you say stay away from lugging the bike. We’re talking about keeping it above 2000rpm?
When I put new cams in my twin cam I re-used the original lifters but the engine had less than 2,000 miles on it at the time. When it comes time to change the tensioner shoes again I'm going to put in new lifters then.
That's a good call, I would of done the same thing in that situation. Changing lifters when you do the shoes is a great idea, it goes along with the maintenance not mentioned anywhere in the factory books.
My experience with Sportster upgrades is good. But with Sportsters a lot depends on the wing nut on the throttle.
😆👍 It really does, riding conservatively on a Sportster they can get some miles out of a tank of gas. My wife has the 2.1 gallon tank and we've pulled about 90 miles out of it.
@@GixxerFoo Mine has the 3.5 gallon
I can get up to 150 miles on the super slab before l hit reserve.
What’s your opinion on this? My dad’s 2008 Electraglide has 65k miles on it. I told home we should change out the cam chain adjusters. And possibly a woods 222 cam. Think we should change the cam with those miles? Was going to get the whole cam kit from Fuel Moto.
You'll be alright adding a cam if the bike has good compression, it's always a risk with anything mechanical but if you take the proper steps you'll be good to go with a bolt in. Just do the cam bearings and new lifters with the cam, now the tensioners are always a good idea to replace. Those I always go ahead and replace while I'm in there need it or not.
Go easy on the throttle.... Yea, right!!!
Lol I know, but there are some that are concerned about fuel economy along with performance.
Hey Gixxer another great video I always listen to your advice.
Still modifying the RG just put in a Fuel pack 3 what a amazing difference damn great product.
Thanks for your advice 👍
All the best from New Zealand 🇳🇿
That's awesome to hear! the FP3 is a great product for exhaust, air cleaners and even cams. The auto tune works really good on it too if you want to fine tune the map a bit.
i know when i got my SE 131 build i thought ugggh gas mileage. but i see no difference. i am very conservative so that might be the reason. i made sure i added all the components too to support the larger build. i was reliability for sure. i really dont use the power much but it is there when i need it. coming onto a freeway is super awesome. :) nothing keeps up with me.
That new 131 is just plain awesome, one of the best engine upgrades Harley-Davidson has had i a long time. I bet it's a blast to lay into getting on the freeway!
I changed the cam lifters and pushrods in my 2011 FLHTK. Exhaust, air cleaner, and FP3. Fuel mileage dropped around 5-7 mpg if I ride it normal. When I get on it a lot it makes a difference. So I act accordingly … lol
Also it’s been 10k since the upgrade.
how about converting cam plate on an 88 twin cam to new style cam plate from an 07 and up twin cam, thanks like your advice n
Screamin Eagle has complete conversion kit with a billet cam plate, high volume oil pump and hydraulic tensioners to update the 88's.
I'm almost afraid to ask, but if you measure the run out the check the general health of things, how far out from .002 do you then need to break open the case?
It depends on who you talk to lol, Harley's allowable run out is astronomical in my opinion. Upwards of .012, with the factory cranks I'd like to see .005 at a max and even that's a little high to me. I still believe that factory automatic chain tensioner is the cause of the run out issues, you have that one side pulled tight and something has to give through the center of the engine.
My week is complete. Another awesome video
That's awesome! New one coming tomorrow!
Gixxer.... 2021 m8 streetbob .... stock with jims forcefan , k&n filter and stock pipes. Just want to get pipes for better sound. Is it true my bike is tuned to accept pipes without a tune. Latest says yes.... does that sound true to you.
my 128 has 155 torque with 6 thou runout stock crank stock pump and plate
runs great but for how long who no's
Great Video Gix 😀👍.
Your knowledge and presentation were Awesome. 💯
Thank you so much 🤗!
Yup, with great power comes great throttle response🤣.
😆👍 I gotta remember that one!
Depends who does the engine build. There are a lot of under qualified builders out there that have optimistic dynos and think that making the most HP and having the optimal AF ratio is paramount, which neither are. But alot of Harley riders only want to use the dyno printoff for bragging rights then wonder why their bike runs like crap. 😂
all i did to my evo was a jet kit and i did notice lower mpg
Yeah on a carb bike the jet kits make it pretty rich so you will use more fuel. The FI bike electronically metering the fuel can run richer and leaner as needed which allows them to keep the fuel economy steady.
Mate it's good to do these performance upgrades but let's talk to the people about keeping the engine and oil cool love your videos cheers from Oz
Thanks, will do! I have a video on cooling down the bike, even the more stock machines can really benefit from that!
I’ve been binge watching your channel.. I’ve watched the 103ci cam swap vid ~100 times.. what state are you in? Also, bike questions.. you express sheer excitement about the “bolt-in” cams.. any idea if those “bolt in” cams (wood 222) will bolt in and clear the inner case casting? I have a good starting point.. only at 10k mi.. cams, cam plate, lifters, quickee pushrods and oil pump are next..
Secondly, I know the runout (gap) can be no more than 0.003” on cam gears, but what about the pinion runout? Is there a safe spectrum?
Yup no prob...222 = true bolt in.... instant power
Appreciate it.. What are you riding? I’m on a ‘14 FXDB.. just don’t want to have to grind any metal in the cam chest
Bolt in cams usually don't have any clearance issues, I still check the case clearance anyhow and I haven't ever found any base circle issues with a bolt in cam clearing the cases. But still don't blindly put one in without checking cause that will the one time it doesn't clear lol. I'm in central Oklahoma where the weather is wild and you never know what you're gonna get lol. You're pinion runout you absolutely don't want to be over .003" at a maximum for a gear drive cam system. That's a pretty good plan with a race cam plate and oil pump too.
09 Dyna
th-cam.com/users/shortsTWgHcgFsPp0?feature=share
Great video Gixxer, dumb question, what do you mean by lugging the engine?
I have a 96 out to 103 cam comp heads ported tune in a street glide loaded up A buddy had a factory 103 wide glide and on the highway I used a bit less than he did lol
Just recently had to unsubscribe from a new content fella who stated the M8 runs rich from the factory. Appreciate your weekly accurate discussions.
I saw that one too. Totally wrong.
Yeah the M8 doesn't run rich it all, it runs just as lean as the Twin Cam did but it handles it a lot better with the dual plugs and 4 valve heads. The poor Twin Cam was virtually on the edge of melting with the two valve head trying to pull those AFR's.
The M8 is very lean but it handles a lot better than the Twin Cam motors did.
Thanks so much again for your info, I am learning alot about twin cam Harleys now. You are my go to guy for advice and help good buddy!
So…. What is the power band on my 2019 FLH (stock). I’m going to take an educated guess… 2200-5000 ish?
Roughly, torque come on pretty early but peaks around 3500 and horsepower runs out arount 4500 to 5000.
@@GixxerFoo so with my style of riding, I’ll never see any horsepower🤣
On my 17 Road King at 2 years old and approx 16000 km I did a stage 2 with the S&S 475 cam. A year later I wasn't happy with the FP3 fuel map so just paid for a dynojet license and had it dyno'd. I'm a shade over 40000 km now and the bike just seems to keep running better and better.
Hey bro, what carb do you prefer on an FHLR1996? Trying to decide between supper E or Mikuni.
First off, awesome channel!
How best to get in touch and pick your brain? I recently bought a bone stock '06 Deluxe EFI twin cam 88. Just did a 10K service, I did pull the cam cover and the tensioners are fine, so far. I want to Stage 1 her, but need advise. Cams are soon to follow (bolt in, I think) and that's it, ride her. Help!!!
Really enjoy your channel, Question, I have a 2006 Heritage Softail with under 18K on it and would like to consider a cam upgrade and possibly cam plate upgrade, don’t want to go into debt for a new one.
How much (ballpark) for those upgrades if I can find a local independent shop near me.
With a Indy shop the parts I'd say would run you around 800 to 1k. I would plan for 2k all in with labor, that's high in my opinion but different markets etc. That's probably more like the dealer price so Indy shop should be quite a bit cheaper.
So what I'm hearing is that if you don't ride it like you stole it neither MPG nor longevity will suffer?
Lol basically
Thanks
Welcome!
I remember when I was a kid hearing a guy saying you don't buy a Harley for the mileage but your stock 883 does about 140mpg which is comperable to everything in it's price/power range
I should say that's with a 3.3 gal tank. 2.8's are the devil's work
Miles per tank??
Not miles per gallon. You should be getting around 40 mpg if you ride like a normal person, but we are not normal!!
I've got to get one of these that gets 140 miles per gallon. That's out of this world.👍
@@jerryhayden8720 maybe you can try a Honda Vision
883's get really good mileage, my wife's 48 with the 2.1 gallon tank I've stretched that sucker to 85 miles. Not good on the fuel pump in my opinion but even the 1200 will do some decent mileage.
Hey bro! Luv you videos. Are you able to do a video on throttle bodies and injector upgrades would be really appreciated 🤙
I actually have one injectors and throttle bodies right here th-cam.com/video/PaiSNfnLfsc/w-d-xo.html
.005" runout is STILL to much in my opinion! I wouldn't install any flywheel assembly into a set of cases with that much.
Couldn’t agree more! And hope I don’t have too much runout when I decide to tear into my 2006 Dyna Lowrider eventually. If one of the lucky ones and have less than .003, I am gonna split my case and get that sucker welded! Lol.
@@divine_swine9665 I guess it depends on what day of the week it was manufactured LOL
@@divine_swine9665 I wouldn't want another Twin Cam, garbage
I totally agree it's way too much, I don't like it but and I don't sleep well with the idea but it can be done like that with those twin cam engines.
That honestly seems to make a difference on the Twin Cam factory cranks lol. I got a little information on that surprisingly, talked to a guy who was there when they started pressing those cranks. Part of their cost saving measures was running the hydraulic fluid in the machines longer, they found the dirtier/older the fluid was the cranks ended up with more run out. If you got a crank that was pressed/lubed properly with the clean fluid during the pressing operation they ended up straighter and more true.
I usually use this analogy: it is easier for me to push a piano up hill than it is for my 10 year old son. And I use less energy, and burn less calories, doing it.
That's exactly what you're doing putting some power in your engine, it's like getting a full size pickup with the V6 instead of the V8. You find out real quick you burn as much if not more fuel and you have way less power.
Gixerfoo are you available for custom builds or able to personally assist with information/recommendations on an individual basis? If so, what is the best way one can contact you?
How low rpms do you consider lugging the engine?
I would say anything under 2000 rpm. I have a tc 88 bumped up to a 98 with headwork and s&s crank. I do not ride under 2500 rpm.
If you're in too high of a gear with RPM's below 2500 and feel the engine struggling to pull out of it. The Vtwin will do it but you're beating the crap out of the crank.
@@GixxerFoo I've got a 114 M8. On the highway at 70mph it's only at 2600 rpms. On back roads I usually am around 2800
As always great subject brother thanks
Much appreciated!
Do you have any experience with a Drago’s 470 cam
I don't personally but what I've seen out of them they look like a solid power producer.
Always great content.
Thank you!
Great explanations.
Glad you think so!
Pressed force vs rotational force ratios will explain a lot of the issues.
Rotational force is so much more powerful
The fart at the end though🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 love your work
Thank you! Lol I forgot to put it in one time and I heard all about it.
Extreme engine builds can have extreme consequences!
Especially if you don't go all in, you can tear up some stock parts if you go too big on top of them.
Or you have performance or you have fuel economy. You dont buy a Corvette zl1 with a 7.0 v8 being afraid of fuel consumption. Take it or leave it.
Surprisingly even those Vettes get pretty good mileage for what they are, obviously not a Prius but not the 9 miles a gallon we used to get back in the day.
What is lugging the engine?
Well said
Great info!
Thanks for watching!
Love your channel
0:46 - I busted out laughing. That's hilarious.
This is nice to know. I wish that you had covered Sportster, too. What are some ways to specifically get better gas mileage, on a Sportster?
It's the exact same concept on the Sportster too, exhaust, air cleaner and a good tune really goes a long way. Even adding cams and big bore kits on a Sportster with conservative riding will maintain or increase economy.
You can only turn the wick up so far before it all falls down.
That's very true, it's a fine line but if you keep it mild and ride pretty conservatively you're good to go.
@8:55 WTH happened to that motor? GOT LORD!!
That's pretty ugly, that for is catastrophic failure.
@@GixxerFoo I've never seen ANYTHING like that before! Hard to believe that left the manufacturer like that. Wow, they totally suck.
Soooooo you’re saying nitrous my stock HD?
Couldn’t help myself. Good video again brother. Thanks for the content.
Lol well if you match the fuel flow with the nitrous it would hold together for a while. Biggest thing with nitrous is fuel, nitrous is hard on rings anyhow but without plenty of fuel it smoke the rings even faster.
Another excellent video ✅👍😊
Thank you! Cheers!
Love your vids ☺️❤️👍
More power and torque = more heat to dissapate, more stress on other components like valve springs, clutch, clutch basket, transmission. You cannot upgrade the top engine without upgrading other components...not upgrading these other components will bite you big time. Don't worry about fuel economy...worry about increased stresses on other components and engine heat management (consider getting a fan assisted oil cooler)
Always a huge fan of oil coolers, you can't go wrong there. You do put a little more stress on the lower end in theory, but if you keep it mild with bolt in cams that work with the stock springs you're pretty good. Now if you get into high lift cams and heavy springs you start to put some stress down on the stock parts.
@@GixxerFoo This is true...why do I push for lower engine? It's because the lower engine is like a foundation to build upon, and the quality of that future build is dependent upon the quality and strength of that foundation. Now it is entirely true that an owner can add some power and torque and the stock components will do just fine, however it comes at a cost of sacrificing some reliability..components will wear out a little faster. However for those who are very serious and have the financial resources...starting with the lower engine and blue printing it, and putting in Timken Bearings, and forged connecting rods (Carillo) and having that new crankshaft assembly balanced to have as little vibration as possible (I know...part of the Harley "experience" for backseaters is that the bike is a 2 wheeled vibrator and that's why women love them so much...besides the bad boy image of the bike owner...but I digress...)...reducing the vibration (like reducing heat) translates into components lasting longer and having less wear and staying in alignment longer. So...once the lower engine work is done...the Harley owner can then shift their gaze to Gear Driven CAMs which allow for more precise valve timing, and a more efficient OIL pump and better CAM plate (like S&S)...more lubrication = less friction = less wear = less heat = greater reliability. A solid lower end means not only better reliability...but a solid foundation on which the owner can make all kinds of changes to the upper end and still have an incredibly solid bike. It's like...if you're going to want to someday have an engine that produces more torque..you are going to want to have a better clutch and transmission so the owner might want to think about a Baker Transmission. Pricey yes...but very solid. Just like it costs money for performance..it costs money for reliability. A bike owner can cycle through a lot of bikes over time, or can focus on having one bike for a very long time and making that bike as solid as possible.
A shit load & no worries !
Lol that's my thought, you gotta give something up something if you go all out.
Most Harley Davidson tech's don't have Micrometers or bore gages to check the fitment of the "bolt on" parts and just slap them together without checking ANYTHING! What a $hit show
There's some really bad dealers out there that are just more interested in getting it in out and onto the next.
@@GixxerFoo then they wonder why so many people are leaving the brand name.
Why do riders worry about MPG? Gas is cheap enough in the USA.
Haaaa yeah true yet they're quick to blame it on Putin! Let's go Brandon
It's going up but at least a Harley gets better mileage than a car no matter how you ride it.
@@GixxerFoo if you have a 20k bike and worry about 2 bucks extra a tank, then you really need to live life a better way.
@@davegarner3477 I agree with you but... When I do some really LOOONG rides it really does add up. I can do a 2,000 mile trip and depending on what I throw my leg over really does make a difference from a financial standpoint. Plus I'm able to maximize my distance traveled.
@@kennethwise7108 yes of course it does take more money on trips like that, never forget how lucky we are, something like 50% of the worlds population lives on a dollar a day. Of course enjoy your motorcycle, I certainly do. we are the luckier ones
Good content..
Thank you, I appreciate it!
Good stuff
I appreciate it!
Like my Diesel 🇺🇸
Diesels will get some crazy mileage, especially in a 1 ton truck!
7,908
👵 👍 up sonny . ooh gramma like u.😂
Very elementary question what does logging your engine mean?
Going slow in a high gear
“Lugging”.. meaning you’re demanding the bike to run at far too little RPM.. puts LOTS of stress on engine components
Too high of a gear and too slow of a speed and rolling on the throttle letting the engine pull the bike up to speed. With a Harley engine design it will do it but it's very hard on your crank.
@@bullast2046 Thank you my friend.
@@jamestorregrossa1185 np.. gixxerfoo explained it better
Don't lug......so what would be a minimum rpm you can accelerate out of without downshifting
Not a problem for me, I ride the curves and like to keep rpm up, gear down, for best throttle response
My brother doesn't get it......he shifts up as fast as possible, he hits 5th at 50mph(1200).......then says it needs a 6th gear
That's for sure going way too high a gear with not enough speed to carry the RPM range high enough.
👍
I get much less fuel mileage. It runs much better. It goes alot better.
Dumping the fuel will make them run really well!
First date words 8:36😄
The important thing to remember is if you modify your bike do it right not cheap.
That's the truth, a lot of people find that it just keeps going. You get an idea in your head of a cam swap only and then you start finding you absolutely need or really should get parts while you're in there.
Just don’t let Harley tune it none of hem know how to tune a bike
For sure don't do the "download", some shops that have a Dyno have a qualified tuner that can do a really good job.
🚶💭👍
If this guy cut 5/10 of his words it would be more interesting . He talks to much without saying anything
There's a lot to it!
Not impressed with this particular video.
Sorry to hear that.
It cost me about 15$ to fill up, so I could give 2shits about miles per gallon