Thanks for the inspiration. Was about to invest in a pressure fermenter system, but i think my main issue is oxygen contact, which thanks to you I can hopefully reduce now! My last neipa attempt turned purple in my barrel.. I'll come back and comment for my next brew. Cheers.
For dry hopping. I just put the hops in a ss screen tube underneath the cover with a magnet in it and another one outside the lid. So, no need to open the lid to dry hop. Just remove the outside magnet and the hops cylinder drop in the beer.
Best piece of advice for reducing oxygen I've had within the last 2 hours of searching you tube for reduce O2 in transfer...I've got all these bits, next brew, that's what my buckets going to look like. Thanks for that
Absolute genius idea - for sure one of the best closed bucket transfers I've ever seen, not hooking a CO2 tank direct to ferm bucket is a great idea, instead using recirculated CO2 from the keg! Do you have an issues with the floating ball valve + sediment? How well does it pick up the last drop of beer at the bottom? I would imagine if the hose kinks in the wrong position or something, you could lose a fair amount of beer no? You are relying on gravity as opposed to suction/siphon
I've read somewhere that the gas can can be fed from the keg to a three piece airlock in the top of the fermenter.. I inserted some tube Into my three piece lock, it went in, but I wouldn't say it was a gas tight seal. Would you Know how I could get that method to work?
Superb, I love the buckets you use. How do you cold crash with those, you mentioned a bladder-do you have a video for this too. I still use a bucket but i want to do a closed transfer and cold crash without air suck back. I always think i lose plenty of aroma/taste from cracking open the bucket to dryhop and transfer.
FYI new to the game myself, try putting your dry hops inside the fermenter when you first seal it up, use a magnet in the bag and a magnet on the outside to keep it suspended up and out of the wort. When it is time to dry hop, just remove the magnet from the outside and the bag falls in with no additional oxygen added.
Been using your floating Dip method for about a year now, one problem I have is I cant get a accurate OG reading using the tap due to the water going in last no matter how much I stir the wort.
Hi Trevor, using a sanitised jug you can pull half a litre out using the tap and then add it back into the fermenter. Give it another stir and then you should get a even reading! I hope this helps. Cheers Dan
Oxidation begins in homebrewing when malt is added to hot water that isn't de-aerated and increases when evil dough balls are flogged and when hot extract is dumped into a vessel. Brewing water should be boiled at least one time, cooled, and racked before using it and an air eliminator should be installed in the main water feed line. The brewing method that homebrewers use produces chemically imbalanced, sugar imbalanced, unstable, extract, which are responsible for off flavors and the short, shelf life of homebrew. The beer is artificially carbonated and drank when it is green, from boiler to belly in four to six weeks. The beer deteriorates before it has a chance to naturally carbonate and properly age. High hop rates and high Alpha hops masks off flavors. The percentage of Beta should be listed on a hop container. Without knowing the percentage of Beta, the quality of hops cannot be determined. The Alpha and Beta numbers should be within a decimal point. The closer the numbers, the finer and more balanced the hops. The single temperature infusion method and high modified, malt are used in grain distillation, the beer is called distillers beer, the slang name is moonshiners beer. Homebrew instructions and recipes are based on the way that distillers beer is produced. To produce ale and lager with the homebrew method malt would need to contain magical properties in order for low temperature activated enzymes to work during a single, high temperature rest without denaturing, which is impossible. Strike and target temperature are useless for producing ale and lager due to the way that enzymes work. The high temperature denatures Beta. Beta is responsible for conversion. When conversion occurs, secondary fermentation takes place. The conversion rest is skipped in homebrew recipes because depending on the level of modification, high modified, malt will need an Alpha-Beta enzyme mixture added to the malt for conversion to occur, an extra step is added to the brewing process, the fermentation cycle is extended a week to two weeks, and an extra fermenter is required, most of which, go against the idea that homebrewers have that ale and lager can be produced, quickly. Also, the added time increases the risk of infection and oxidation. Conversion, dextrinization and gelatinization steps are skipped in the homebrew method and without the steps ale and lager cannot be produced. An entirely different brewing method and under modified, low protein, malt are used for producing ale and lager. Since, time is time, why spend time on making low quality, distillers beer, when the time can be spent on producing ale and lager? That way you'd be honest when telling someone that the bottle and keg contains ale. CAMRA renamed distillers beer and Prohibition beer, real ale. To learn how ale and lager are produced start with deClerks books.
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Thanks for the inspiration. Was about to invest in a pressure fermenter system, but i think my main issue is oxygen contact, which thanks to you I can hopefully reduce now! My last neipa attempt turned purple in my barrel.. I'll come back and comment for my next brew. Cheers.
For dry hopping. I just put the hops in a ss screen tube underneath the cover with a magnet in it and another one outside the lid. So, no need to open the lid to dry hop. Just remove the outside magnet and the hops cylinder drop in the beer.
Best piece of advice for reducing oxygen I've had within the last 2 hours of searching you tube for reduce O2 in transfer...I've got all these bits, next brew, that's what my buckets going to look like. Thanks for that
Absolute genius idea - for sure one of the best closed bucket transfers I've ever seen, not hooking a CO2 tank direct to ferm bucket is a great idea, instead using recirculated CO2 from the keg!
Do you have an issues with the floating ball valve + sediment? How well does it pick up the last drop of beer at the bottom? I would imagine if the hose kinks in the wrong position or something, you could lose a fair amount of beer no? You are relying on gravity as opposed to suction/siphon
Top vid my friend . But I don't get how you release gas whilst the wort is fermenting because of the ball post . Cheers pal
I'm sure he said he swapped the lid at end of ferment to cold crash
Just curious how you attached the connector values to the plastic lid??
Would you guys mind writing the size of the fittings and beer hose you're using for this please
Thats a great idea, well done !!
That’s brilliant, and perfect for me. Thanks for the video.
Love Nelson. Beautiful area for a Canadian to spend the (Canadian) winter.
I've read somewhere that the gas can can be fed from the keg to a three piece airlock in the top of the fermenter..
I inserted some tube Into my three piece lock, it went in, but I wouldn't say it was a gas tight seal.
Would you Know how I could get that method to work?
Superb, I love the buckets you use. How do you cold crash with those, you mentioned a bladder-do you have a video for this too. I still use a bucket but i want to do a closed transfer and cold crash without air suck back. I always think i lose plenty of aroma/taste from cracking open the bucket to dryhop and transfer.
FYI new to the game myself, try putting your dry hops inside the fermenter when you first seal it up, use a magnet in the bag and a magnet on the outside to keep it suspended up and out of the wort. When it is time to dry hop, just remove the magnet from the outside and the bag falls in with no additional oxygen added.
Been using your floating Dip method for about a year now, one problem I have is I cant get a accurate OG reading using the tap due to the water going in last no matter how much I stir the wort.
Hi Trevor, using a sanitised jug you can pull half a litre out using the tap and then add it back into the fermenter. Give it another stir and then you should get a even reading! I hope this helps. Cheers Dan
Love this. So simple! Great video!
What pressure would you have in the keg when you connect it to the bucket?
As low as you can while making beer flow
what about the yeast at the bottom?
Great video- thanks!
Light American Lager - just like water!!
I think ill be trying a setup like this with my Fermonsters
Really Ingenious , thanks
But why is the keg open? Doesn't that defeat the purpose if the closed transfer?
I think it is for demonstration to show the keg filling but if not, yeah what is the point? LOL
for demonstration purposes
Amazing! Thank you!
Brilliant! thanks for sharing.
This is how I do it. Make sure you purge your return line with CO2!
This is helpful, thank you.
Lol on the light American lager.
indeed it looks like american lager hahaha
Water, American Lager lol.
Oxidation begins in homebrewing when malt is added to hot water that isn't de-aerated and increases when evil dough balls are flogged and when hot extract is dumped into a vessel. Brewing water should be boiled at least one time, cooled, and racked before using it and an air eliminator should be installed in the main water feed line. The brewing method that homebrewers use produces chemically imbalanced, sugar imbalanced, unstable, extract, which are responsible for off flavors and the short, shelf life of homebrew. The beer is artificially carbonated and drank when it is green, from boiler to belly in four to six weeks. The beer deteriorates before it has a chance to naturally carbonate and properly age. High hop rates and high Alpha hops masks off flavors. The percentage of Beta should be listed on a hop container. Without knowing the percentage of Beta, the quality of hops cannot be determined. The Alpha and Beta numbers should be within a decimal point. The closer the numbers, the finer and more balanced the hops.
The single temperature infusion method and high modified, malt are used in grain distillation, the beer is called distillers beer, the slang name is moonshiners beer. Homebrew instructions and recipes are based on the way that distillers beer is produced. To produce ale and lager with the homebrew method malt would need to contain magical properties in order for low temperature activated enzymes to work during a single, high temperature rest without denaturing, which is impossible. Strike and target temperature are useless for producing ale and lager due to the way that enzymes work. The high temperature denatures Beta. Beta is responsible for conversion. When conversion occurs, secondary fermentation takes place. The conversion rest is skipped in homebrew recipes because depending on the level of modification, high modified, malt will need an Alpha-Beta enzyme mixture added to the malt for conversion to occur, an extra step is added to the brewing process, the fermentation cycle is extended a week to two weeks, and an extra fermenter is required, most of which, go against the idea that homebrewers have that ale and lager can be produced, quickly. Also, the added time increases the risk of infection and oxidation.
Conversion, dextrinization and gelatinization steps are skipped in the homebrew method and without the steps ale and lager cannot be produced. An entirely different brewing method and under modified, low protein, malt are used for producing ale and lager.
Since, time is time, why spend time on making low quality, distillers beer, when the time can be spent on producing ale and lager? That way you'd be honest when telling someone that the bottle and keg contains ale.
CAMRA renamed distillers beer and Prohibition beer, real ale. To learn how ale and lager are produced start with deClerks books.
WTF?! Do you get paid to spam every homebrewing video with that cut and paste word salad drivel?
You're relying on an outdated series of books published in 1957 as the basis for your arguments? .... GTFO out here!