The double fold is a good way to make a fast wing since all you need for an airfoil is a spar in the 1/3 of width from the leading edge. Nice break tool idea for creasing foam to control where it will crush in when the foam board is bent. A bit more simple to make than what is normally used in sheet metal forming, but the fancy one looks to be well designed too. Reminds me of some of the basic ideas used in Experimental Airlines videos. As to bends vs glued joints, I prefer the glued joints since the glue bonds the foam parts almost as if a carbon fiber flat was used and stiffens the foam joint a lot, unless you are using a glue that stays soft and flexible more so then polyurethane glues. I tend to use the Gorilla brand glues, both foaming and non-foaming.
I started with flite test, Ed's (Experimental Airlines) videos and I really like Andrew Newton as well. Mostly I try to make things easier or simpler, then stronger, and occasionally lighter. I've done most the different ways. This seems better for structure, but not so much for shapes. Since I tend to ruin planes when I fly them...
Really like your tool you made from squares to ensure the tubes stay square. Very clever. Subscribed. I can see how leaving the lamination film off so additional foam parts could be glued on would be an effective way to model just about any aircraft known, or imagined with a very effective core inside for RC gear. You are a very clever guy, to say the least.
Been building balsa over fifty years. New to foam board and a LOT cheaper! I started off watching FT videos and doing to "A"-"B" cutouts and stuff. Your folding technique is FAR superior! I'm wondering if we can't come up with a tube rolling device to compliment your bar(s)?
You'll have to make your own patterns to fit the size you're aiming for. The template in the video shows where the right angles are. You can also sketch right on the foamboard to make a single part.
I have mentioned this in one of your other videos, but Adams Readi-board is notorious for loosing it's paper skins way too easy. Bending the foam is one method to attempt to help keep the paper on, but it is very heavy, so naturally I remove it before starting any construction projects.
My first planes were super light, slow beginner planes that wouldn't penetrate or respond well in breezes... I had an easier time with more weight and power and ailerons. I take chances and crash a lot, so my goals were less build time and more strength and some weight is ok. I usually end up playing with the battery size and then balance by moving the wing position... Anyways, I also do hard points using binding posts and thin washers and some other ways to not pull the paper loose. Thank you for these comments. I've been putting off the videos way too long...
The double fold is a good way to make a fast wing since all you need for an airfoil is a spar in the 1/3 of width from the leading edge. Nice break tool idea for creasing foam to control where it will crush in when the foam board is bent. A bit more simple to make than what is normally used in sheet metal forming, but the fancy one looks to be well designed too. Reminds me of some of the basic ideas used in Experimental Airlines videos. As to bends vs glued joints, I prefer the glued joints since the glue bonds the foam parts almost as if a carbon fiber flat was used and stiffens the foam joint a lot, unless you are using a glue that stays soft and flexible more so then polyurethane glues. I tend to use the Gorilla brand glues, both foaming and non-foaming.
I started with flite test, Ed's (Experimental Airlines) videos and I really like Andrew Newton as well. Mostly I try to make things easier or simpler, then stronger, and occasionally lighter. I've done most the different ways. This seems better for structure, but not so much for shapes. Since I tend to ruin planes when I fly them...
Thanks steve!
Really like your tool you made from squares to ensure the tubes stay square. Very clever. Subscribed. I can see how leaving the lamination film off so additional foam parts could be glued on would be an effective way to model just about any aircraft known, or imagined with a very effective core inside for RC gear. You are a very clever guy, to say the least.
I can't claim the double square thing as my own, but thanks anyway. Shapes are trickier... Not my table.
Great vids and ideas. Thanks
Been building balsa over fifty years. New to foam board and a LOT cheaper! I started off watching FT videos and doing to "A"-"B" cutouts and stuff. Your folding technique is FAR superior! I'm wondering if we can't come up with a tube rolling device to compliment your bar(s)?
Where do I find the templets to make the tubes?
Seems odd he hasn't replied yet, but he makes his own. He recommends making photo copies once you have one you like.
You'll have to make your own patterns to fit the size you're aiming for. The template in the video shows where the right angles are. You can also sketch right on the foamboard to make a single part.
I have mentioned this in one of your other videos, but Adams Readi-board is notorious for loosing it's paper skins way too easy. Bending the foam is one method to attempt to help keep the paper on, but it is very heavy, so naturally I remove it before starting any construction projects.
My first planes were super light, slow beginner planes that wouldn't penetrate or respond well in breezes... I had an easier time with more weight and power and ailerons. I take chances and crash a lot, so my goals were less build time and more strength and some weight is ok. I usually end up playing with the battery size and then balance by moving the wing position...
Anyways, I also do hard points using binding posts and thin washers and some other ways to not pull the paper loose. Thank you for these comments. I've been putting off the videos way too long...